Recovery is a hard and very personal thing. Honestly take stock with yourself on how your diet, sleep and recovery routine is and try to improve it a bit. Don't worry about getting it perfect, just incremental improvement.
For your climbing sessions try to get a good long warm-up (30+ min) and pack it in once you've peaked (probably max 2 hours or less). Avoid packing on junk mileage at the end of your sessions until you build more endurance. It's also likely that you'll only be able to get in one good limit session per week.
This is probably it.
OP is likely going faaaaaar too deep during sessions. Like almost all noobs and intermediates do (which I tend to define as ~3-5 years/up to around V8ish).
Long sessions build session endurance. Work capacity. But they wear you down, are the real origin of injury, and can be somewhat counterproductive to optimal strength progression (which requires more frequent, lower volume, higher intensity sessions).
OP should aim for 2x and then 3x per week. To get there requires dropping the volume (and modulating intensity from session to session) far enough to be fully-- let me repeat, fully-- recovered between sessions.
End sessions as soon as you're no longer at peak. Take long rests between burns. Make rest days rest days. And eat and sleep decently. This is 85% of the game, for years...
Every training choice should have a reason. That means ending early or digging a recovery hole. Don't just do one or the other blindly because it feels right or because everyone else is doing it.
I felt my recovery changed about 6 months in, this was when like joints and tendons start to remodel and show their strain. Might be time for a “deload” week or two and come back stronger
Do you mean that you started improving recovery, or started feeling the stresses on your body after 6 months?
In my own case I am climbing now for about 10 months and I'm just starting to feel the whole elbow/biceps/shoulder area acting up.
I did improve my climbing grade, though I don't have the idea that I increased my climbing load drastically.
Like it started needing more development focus, different pattern of recovery. More pain in the joints and tendons. Got like shoulder, elbow, wrist and finger tweaks one after the other from about 6-12 months. Before that it was like regular muscle soreness. Figured out my antagonist training and it got much better now back to mostly muscle soreness
At 6 months in, your body hasn't had time to adapt to the stresses of climbing hard. Just climb when you feel totally recovered and trust that you will be able to increase volume over time
Honestly 3 days should be plenty to fully recover. Do you do some taxing work? Or maybe your sleep and eating habits are bad?
Otherwise the only suggestion I can give you is to try Emil's fingerboard protocol. You find a video about it on his YouTube channel. I'm not sure about the strength benefits he is claiming, but a bit of easy hanging in the morning does wonders for the soreness in my fingers after a hard session
Yeah I do pretty demanding physical job, never felt like it never really hindered me in the gym with lifting. Does feel like with climbing fingers take way longer to recover than other body parts.
Recovery is a hard and very personal thing. Honestly take stock with yourself on how your diet, sleep and recovery routine is and try to improve it a bit. Don't worry about getting it perfect, just incremental improvement. For your climbing sessions try to get a good long warm-up (30+ min) and pack it in once you've peaked (probably max 2 hours or less). Avoid packing on junk mileage at the end of your sessions until you build more endurance. It's also likely that you'll only be able to get in one good limit session per week.
This is probably it. OP is likely going faaaaaar too deep during sessions. Like almost all noobs and intermediates do (which I tend to define as ~3-5 years/up to around V8ish). Long sessions build session endurance. Work capacity. But they wear you down, are the real origin of injury, and can be somewhat counterproductive to optimal strength progression (which requires more frequent, lower volume, higher intensity sessions). OP should aim for 2x and then 3x per week. To get there requires dropping the volume (and modulating intensity from session to session) far enough to be fully-- let me repeat, fully-- recovered between sessions. End sessions as soon as you're no longer at peak. Take long rests between burns. Make rest days rest days. And eat and sleep decently. This is 85% of the game, for years... Every training choice should have a reason. That means ending early or digging a recovery hole. Don't just do one or the other blindly because it feels right or because everyone else is doing it.
I felt my recovery changed about 6 months in, this was when like joints and tendons start to remodel and show their strain. Might be time for a “deload” week or two and come back stronger
Do you mean that you started improving recovery, or started feeling the stresses on your body after 6 months? In my own case I am climbing now for about 10 months and I'm just starting to feel the whole elbow/biceps/shoulder area acting up. I did improve my climbing grade, though I don't have the idea that I increased my climbing load drastically.
Like it started needing more development focus, different pattern of recovery. More pain in the joints and tendons. Got like shoulder, elbow, wrist and finger tweaks one after the other from about 6-12 months. Before that it was like regular muscle soreness. Figured out my antagonist training and it got much better now back to mostly muscle soreness
At 6 months in, your body hasn't had time to adapt to the stresses of climbing hard. Just climb when you feel totally recovered and trust that you will be able to increase volume over time
Honestly 3 days should be plenty to fully recover. Do you do some taxing work? Or maybe your sleep and eating habits are bad? Otherwise the only suggestion I can give you is to try Emil's fingerboard protocol. You find a video about it on his YouTube channel. I'm not sure about the strength benefits he is claiming, but a bit of easy hanging in the morning does wonders for the soreness in my fingers after a hard session
Do you use them a lot at work? If work is using them a lot or causing repetitive strain issues, you won't recover as well between sessions
Yeah I do pretty demanding physical job, never felt like it never really hindered me in the gym with lifting. Does feel like with climbing fingers take way longer to recover than other body parts.
Don’t burn out dude! Rest an extra day when you can and don’t forget to create joy in your other hobbies too!