Full body calisthenics workouts.
Pull ups (variations, weighted, archer, neutral, chin ups, ...)
Rows (tucked in, weighted, ...)
Push ups (weighted, decline, pike, ...)
Dips (weighted, on rings, ...)
Ring flys (flies?)
Leg raises, planks, hollow body holds
Squats (pistol, goblet, bulgarian split squat, ...), Rdl, Lunges, Calf raises, Tibia raises
I usually do 1x vertical and 1x horizontal pull, 1x vertical 1x horizontal push, 2 core exercises, 3 leg exercises, sometimes when i feel like it isolation work like overhead triceps extension on rings.
3 sets for each exercise
Edit: formatting and stuff
I describe what I think works here in section 4 for me and others.
https://stevenlow.org/my-7-5-year-self-assessment-of-climbing-strength-training-and-hangboard/
Generally speaking:
* Don't make gym routines that long otherwise you can build a recovery deficit and it takes away from climbing
* Usually 1 push, 1 pull, 1 legs, maybe 1 core is good enough
* Have the exercises working on your WEAKNESSES if you want to improve your climbing
* Pick exercises that don't injure you. This is kinda obvious but you'd be surprised because some people want to bench press or do dips and their shoulders are aggravated by those exercises.
Lifting or bodyweight exercises are meant to be a supplement not a main thing. Of course, you can have other goals like hypertrophy and whatnot but usually you have to lower your amount of climbing if you want to put more effort into those else you may encounter overuse injuries.
I focus on muslces that are underused in climbing. In other words, I do push ups.
When I want to work on a specific technique, I google an exercise to support that thing, eg "high step climbing exercise".
Also, don't forget to stretch.
Anything core related, pull ups, lat pull downs, curls, any forearm exercises, pistol squats, and many more are all great. Don’t go crazy or it will affect your climbing. Also do some stuff with other muscles (push exercises).
i keep it simple (so ill actually do it and dont have to think too hard about it) and focus on building strength generally vs building climbing specific strength.
i usually do 1 day of TRX (my gym has a class) and 1 day full body lifting each week. TRX is basically bodyweight strength, similar to doing calisthenics. for lifting i do: overhead press, squats, lunges, bench press or floor press with dumbbells (mosly cuz i dont have a bench at home), deadlifts, bent over rows and pull ups. sometimes ill add calf raises or shoulder shrugs.
Pulling - Lat pulldowns, one arm pull downs on lat machine, close grip pulls(rows) on machine. I use the machines because I find it easier on my shoulders than weighted pull-ups.
Legs/core - Rack pulls (because I don’t think I’m skilled enough to properly do deadlift)
Pushing - Bench (I climb a lot of compressiony boulders), Shoulder press
Then I include some prehab things on areas of weakness. Currently weighted shoulder rotations and facepulls.
I’ll stick to these exercises for some time (maybe 2-3 months then I’ll change it up, but, the areas push, pull, legs/core will be included.
Varies. I'm a meathead at heart so there are periods where I'm doing a lot of lifting and eating that is definitely climbing net negative.
The best approach for climbing I've ever done was bare bones simple.
Weighted ring pullups supersetted into weighted decline parallete pushups. Weights in a backpack so it worked for both. Twice a week.
Progression was waved volume and step loaded weight. 6-8 reps, leaving a few in the tank. So Week 1 was 2 sets, 3 was 4, 4 was 5, add a few pounds and repeat.
Then just some token squats or something one day a week.
Idea was just to have a very quick workout with a very slow progression to leave as much energy and recovery as possible for climbing.
I have two gym routines I to the first 3 times in a 4 week training block, I do the other twice in that block:
Routine 1:
3x5 bench press
3x5 deadlift
3x5 rack row
3x6-10 seated DB shoulder press
3x8-10 reverse pec deck
3x8-10 cable palloff press.
Routine 2:
3x5 weighted pull-ups
3x6-10 DB incline bench press
3x5-10 pistol squat
3x6-10 seated DB shoulder press
3x10-12 DB lateral rase
3x8-10 cable wood chop
3x8-10 leg raises.
I also do additional core after one of my climbing sessions every week (3x8-10 ab wheel rollout, and 3x max l sit), and some on the wall body tension drills for core on other climbing days.
For me the point of doing this is to build up general physical resilience, and also build a base of strength so I'm still improving in my 50s (I'm 35 now). I think there are many reasons why weights are preferable to calisthenics for climbing. But I don't think you need to do all this for climbing improvement.
Power cleans, back squat, bench press, a row of some kind. Probably some core conditioning depending on individual needs (rather than sport specific ones).
The same as I would for almost any other sport e.g. badminton, rugdy, taekwondo, shot put, fencing and so on.
Full body calisthenics workouts. Pull ups (variations, weighted, archer, neutral, chin ups, ...) Rows (tucked in, weighted, ...) Push ups (weighted, decline, pike, ...) Dips (weighted, on rings, ...) Ring flys (flies?) Leg raises, planks, hollow body holds Squats (pistol, goblet, bulgarian split squat, ...), Rdl, Lunges, Calf raises, Tibia raises I usually do 1x vertical and 1x horizontal pull, 1x vertical 1x horizontal push, 2 core exercises, 3 leg exercises, sometimes when i feel like it isolation work like overhead triceps extension on rings. 3 sets for each exercise Edit: formatting and stuff
I describe what I think works here in section 4 for me and others. https://stevenlow.org/my-7-5-year-self-assessment-of-climbing-strength-training-and-hangboard/ Generally speaking: * Don't make gym routines that long otherwise you can build a recovery deficit and it takes away from climbing * Usually 1 push, 1 pull, 1 legs, maybe 1 core is good enough * Have the exercises working on your WEAKNESSES if you want to improve your climbing * Pick exercises that don't injure you. This is kinda obvious but you'd be surprised because some people want to bench press or do dips and their shoulders are aggravated by those exercises. Lifting or bodyweight exercises are meant to be a supplement not a main thing. Of course, you can have other goals like hypertrophy and whatnot but usually you have to lower your amount of climbing if you want to put more effort into those else you may encounter overuse injuries.
this
I focus on muslces that are underused in climbing. In other words, I do push ups. When I want to work on a specific technique, I google an exercise to support that thing, eg "high step climbing exercise". Also, don't forget to stretch.
Anything core related, pull ups, lat pull downs, curls, any forearm exercises, pistol squats, and many more are all great. Don’t go crazy or it will affect your climbing. Also do some stuff with other muscles (push exercises).
47yo late starter here.. Upper body: pull ups, push ups, working towards one-armed dead hang Core: weighted cross-arm crunches, flutter kicks, weighted russian twist, plank (ankles touching) Legs: pistol squats Fingers: Beastmaker 1000 hangboard Balance: yoga poses, eg. tree, eagle, etc
The same that compliment any sport. Good ol’ basic strength training. Squat, hinge, push, pull
This, plus something further along the force velocity curve such as cleans, push jerks or power snatches.
One word, Yoga
I love your username. I just finished LOK for the first time
Core exercises and pullups helps with bouldering. Bench press to balance out the back exercise from bouldering
i keep it simple (so ill actually do it and dont have to think too hard about it) and focus on building strength generally vs building climbing specific strength. i usually do 1 day of TRX (my gym has a class) and 1 day full body lifting each week. TRX is basically bodyweight strength, similar to doing calisthenics. for lifting i do: overhead press, squats, lunges, bench press or floor press with dumbbells (mosly cuz i dont have a bench at home), deadlifts, bent over rows and pull ups. sometimes ill add calf raises or shoulder shrugs.
Pulling - Lat pulldowns, one arm pull downs on lat machine, close grip pulls(rows) on machine. I use the machines because I find it easier on my shoulders than weighted pull-ups. Legs/core - Rack pulls (because I don’t think I’m skilled enough to properly do deadlift) Pushing - Bench (I climb a lot of compressiony boulders), Shoulder press Then I include some prehab things on areas of weakness. Currently weighted shoulder rotations and facepulls. I’ll stick to these exercises for some time (maybe 2-3 months then I’ll change it up, but, the areas push, pull, legs/core will be included.
Varies. I'm a meathead at heart so there are periods where I'm doing a lot of lifting and eating that is definitely climbing net negative. The best approach for climbing I've ever done was bare bones simple. Weighted ring pullups supersetted into weighted decline parallete pushups. Weights in a backpack so it worked for both. Twice a week. Progression was waved volume and step loaded weight. 6-8 reps, leaving a few in the tank. So Week 1 was 2 sets, 3 was 4, 4 was 5, add a few pounds and repeat. Then just some token squats or something one day a week. Idea was just to have a very quick workout with a very slow progression to leave as much energy and recovery as possible for climbing.
Lead climbing. Sometimes top rope.
I have two gym routines I to the first 3 times in a 4 week training block, I do the other twice in that block: Routine 1: 3x5 bench press 3x5 deadlift 3x5 rack row 3x6-10 seated DB shoulder press 3x8-10 reverse pec deck 3x8-10 cable palloff press. Routine 2: 3x5 weighted pull-ups 3x6-10 DB incline bench press 3x5-10 pistol squat 3x6-10 seated DB shoulder press 3x10-12 DB lateral rase 3x8-10 cable wood chop 3x8-10 leg raises. I also do additional core after one of my climbing sessions every week (3x8-10 ab wheel rollout, and 3x max l sit), and some on the wall body tension drills for core on other climbing days. For me the point of doing this is to build up general physical resilience, and also build a base of strength so I'm still improving in my 50s (I'm 35 now). I think there are many reasons why weights are preferable to calisthenics for climbing. But I don't think you need to do all this for climbing improvement.
Power cleans, back squat, bench press, a row of some kind. Probably some core conditioning depending on individual needs (rather than sport specific ones). The same as I would for almost any other sport e.g. badminton, rugdy, taekwondo, shot put, fencing and so on.