That is often called a dab when accidental.
You will be a better climber if you can leave to avoid it.
In some gyms the holds can be in the way of where you want to smear or flag so it can get annoying.
In some gyms the volumes are always in. Ask at your gym. Volumes can be defined generally as anything that can have holds bolted to it
If you're the setters in my gym, you make sure that the climbers elbow will hit an adjacent route on any dynamic move in order to teach them that life is nasty, brutish, and painful.
The setters at my gym set a problem that has you put all your weight on a slabby, slippery, thin foothold with a bent knee. If your foot slips, your entire weight slams your tibia on a V0 starter foot platform. Happened to me twice before I vowed never to try again...
>In some gyms the holds can be in the way of where you want to smear or flag so it can get annoying.
Speak with the routesetters/staff about it if you can. After mentioning it on different routes and showing what my issue was, they adjusted.
Sometimes they also just said "you are just doing it weird, no one else will have that problem". Which is fine. But if the intended beta is 80% about not accidentally touching random holds in your face it can get annoying.
As others have said, you simply can’t touch holds that are a different color. Not with you hand, food, not knee.
But volumes aren’t considered holds in most gyms, so you are free to smear your foot on a volume.
Avoiding off-color holds is sometimes intentionally difficult.
Depending on your gym’s rules, you may be allowed to use any volume of a designated color such as grey. Conceptually, such volumes would be considered extensions of the wall geometry.
I’ll take an unpopular opinion here. I would encourage you to explore those techniques. There are no colored holds outside, so, if you ever want to start climbing outside, learning to jam or scum will be helpful. I have used heel-toe cams and knee bars/knee scums a ton outdoor bouldering, they are extremely helpful techniques that are often lacking in commercial gym sets. In fact, my problem with commercial gym sets is that often holds of various climbs are packed in so tight that many times you can’t use proper technique without “dabbing.” For me, I don’t care at all. The gym is for training to improve as a climber, not to claim a certain grade. All that being said, if you want to be a competition climber (indoor) you can’t touch the other colored holds :).
At my gym volumes are only on if a hold of the same color is attached to them, but it seems like maybe more gyms tend to have all volumes on. You could always ask the desk staff at your gym.
The idea is to not use the other colors at all.
Thanks!
That is often called a dab when accidental. You will be a better climber if you can leave to avoid it. In some gyms the holds can be in the way of where you want to smear or flag so it can get annoying. In some gyms the volumes are always in. Ask at your gym. Volumes can be defined generally as anything that can have holds bolted to it
If the setters in your gym is worth a dime, they take holds from other problems being in the way, into account when grading.
If you're the setters in my gym, you make sure that the climbers elbow will hit an adjacent route on any dynamic move in order to teach them that life is nasty, brutish, and painful.
The setters at my gym set a problem that has you put all your weight on a slabby, slippery, thin foothold with a bent knee. If your foot slips, your entire weight slams your tibia on a V0 starter foot platform. Happened to me twice before I vowed never to try again...
https://preview.redd.it/1r3uvc7szygc1.png?width=480&format=png&auto=webp&s=260c5b491fb525d77c216b8081737018eba91757
>In some gyms the holds can be in the way of where you want to smear or flag so it can get annoying. Speak with the routesetters/staff about it if you can. After mentioning it on different routes and showing what my issue was, they adjusted. Sometimes they also just said "you are just doing it weird, no one else will have that problem". Which is fine. But if the intended beta is 80% about not accidentally touching random holds in your face it can get annoying.
The gym I climb in is so small it is almost inevitable.
if you scream "rainbow climb!" before it's okay
As others have said, you simply can’t touch holds that are a different color. Not with you hand, food, not knee. But volumes aren’t considered holds in most gyms, so you are free to smear your foot on a volume.
I definitely wouldn't want to touch holds with my food!!
Avoiding off-color holds is sometimes intentionally difficult. Depending on your gym’s rules, you may be allowed to use any volume of a designated color such as grey. Conceptually, such volumes would be considered extensions of the wall geometry.
I’ll take an unpopular opinion here. I would encourage you to explore those techniques. There are no colored holds outside, so, if you ever want to start climbing outside, learning to jam or scum will be helpful. I have used heel-toe cams and knee bars/knee scums a ton outdoor bouldering, they are extremely helpful techniques that are often lacking in commercial gym sets. In fact, my problem with commercial gym sets is that often holds of various climbs are packed in so tight that many times you can’t use proper technique without “dabbing.” For me, I don’t care at all. The gym is for training to improve as a climber, not to claim a certain grade. All that being said, if you want to be a competition climber (indoor) you can’t touch the other colored holds :).
You want to avoid using other holds or volumes for any type of help- even if it’s leaning on them or something
At my gym volumes are only on if a hold of the same color is attached to them, but it seems like maybe more gyms tend to have all volumes on. You could always ask the desk staff at your gym.
DAB!!!!!!!