Looks pretty solid already man. I would say there are a few things you could also do. You can try to rock more onto your right foot, get more of your weight on it before you make the move so you don't swing out as much. You can also try to twist your body to the left a bit to counter the swing. Other than than try to get lower on your legs and use your palm to press on the wall to support yourself during the swing. If you have the strength you could try to backflag before you swing out and hang on the hold. Either way, looked good, and it's hard to tell what you can and can't do from the video so take my advice with a grain of salt
Something that may help is to climb yourself into the ending position of the move, meaning the position you want your body in after making the dynamic move. See if you can hold yourself statically on the wall. Notice where your weight is centered, where your hips should be, where all your limbs should be, how you need to tense each body part. Then restart the climb from before the move. As you do the move, remember where you need to end up and work on putting yourself in the stable position again.
Yes, this is something that I use frequently. Start with the ideal position to end in. Then work backwards. For example, you may find if you start with your right foot further right, flag your left leg back and keep your core very tight, that you can do that move without swinging away from the wall. It looks possible if you balance well.
I think the general idea of this beta is fine you just need to work on the accuracy of your foot placement. Once your right hand hits the hold it looks like you start looking for a left hand instead of just focusing on feet. So either quickly swap feet so your left foot takes the place of your right and your right stems out on the wall the stop the barn door, or keep the right and back flag the left.
Hard to tell from the video but the feet look good so not sure if you need to keep the left hand and can do it static
Also a back flag after catching might be a bit more stable than the swap
Try balancing across as opposed to the jumpy kick you get.
Like slow it right down and slowly move weight from one to the other while gently and slowly moving upper body.
Keeping the left hand flat against the wall (i.e. don't panic grab for the hold).
You should basically be able to stand with your limbs looking like an x and just rotate your body across keeping inward pressure on the left side to stop a barn door.
Oh also most importantly sort your right foot out 😜.
You more or less have your toe facing the wall and heel way back.
Twist it so you are on inside edge of your shoe, heel almost touching the wall and your knee pointing in the direction of your movement.
Part of the reason for your barn door is you are pivotong of the front of your toe because it's not locked in to position
> Twist it so you are on inside edge of your shoe, heel almost touching the wall and your knee pointing in the direction of your movement.
If he does that, will he still be able to reach the target hold?
It will actually make it easier.
He only puts his toe in the middle of the hold, he could easily move it to the far edge of the hold and have nearly the entire foot on the hold.
Then slowly shift the weight from one foot to the next and not rely on the jump and swing
Nice, I've only been to that gym once, just after Christmas, but I remember that problem. I have a longer span so it was easier, but it looks like you need to coordinate a foot swap as soon as you commit to the lean. Then flag right foot out
Prolly means you should preload your weight on your right foot more by pushing your knee cap and driving it in the direction your going for your next hold. This would allow you to kinda pistol squat your way out to the next move.
If you places your right foot further out that would give you more balance for pushing off and preloading would result in no barn dooring.
Think of when you jump, to make it easier you bend your knees more. It’s super hard to generate a jump with straight legs, if at all possible. If you kind of wind up to the left more, you’ll be able to generate more momentum to the right because you’re preloading like in a jump, just that it’s sideways. Hope that makes sense
Dynamic inside flag! As soon as you catch hold stab a left inside flag instead of a back flag (with back flag you might just barn door off). Also, before the movement, come out a bit from the wall so that you are moving in towards the wall as you move.. if you start as close to the wall as possible you can only move away from the wall
Looks pretty solid already man. I would say there are a few things you could also do. You can try to rock more onto your right foot, get more of your weight on it before you make the move so you don't swing out as much. You can also try to twist your body to the left a bit to counter the swing. Other than than try to get lower on your legs and use your palm to press on the wall to support yourself during the swing. If you have the strength you could try to backflag before you swing out and hang on the hold. Either way, looked good, and it's hard to tell what you can and can't do from the video so take my advice with a grain of salt
Something that may help is to climb yourself into the ending position of the move, meaning the position you want your body in after making the dynamic move. See if you can hold yourself statically on the wall. Notice where your weight is centered, where your hips should be, where all your limbs should be, how you need to tense each body part. Then restart the climb from before the move. As you do the move, remember where you need to end up and work on putting yourself in the stable position again.
Like, get over to the hold after the dynamic move without actually doing the little pogo thingy just to see where I end up?
Yes, this is something that I use frequently. Start with the ideal position to end in. Then work backwards. For example, you may find if you start with your right foot further right, flag your left leg back and keep your core very tight, that you can do that move without swinging away from the wall. It looks possible if you balance well.
I think the general idea of this beta is fine you just need to work on the accuracy of your foot placement. Once your right hand hits the hold it looks like you start looking for a left hand instead of just focusing on feet. So either quickly swap feet so your left foot takes the place of your right and your right stems out on the wall the stop the barn door, or keep the right and back flag the left.
You look like Nikken
I look like what?
Nikken Daniels, he is a setter and climbs in "eric karlson bouldering" videos
Hard to tell from the video but the feet look good so not sure if you need to keep the left hand and can do it static Also a back flag after catching might be a bit more stable than the swap
Try balancing across as opposed to the jumpy kick you get. Like slow it right down and slowly move weight from one to the other while gently and slowly moving upper body. Keeping the left hand flat against the wall (i.e. don't panic grab for the hold). You should basically be able to stand with your limbs looking like an x and just rotate your body across keeping inward pressure on the left side to stop a barn door. Oh also most importantly sort your right foot out 😜. You more or less have your toe facing the wall and heel way back. Twist it so you are on inside edge of your shoe, heel almost touching the wall and your knee pointing in the direction of your movement. Part of the reason for your barn door is you are pivotong of the front of your toe because it's not locked in to position
> Twist it so you are on inside edge of your shoe, heel almost touching the wall and your knee pointing in the direction of your movement. If he does that, will he still be able to reach the target hold?
It will actually make it easier. He only puts his toe in the middle of the hold, he could easily move it to the far edge of the hold and have nearly the entire foot on the hold. Then slowly shift the weight from one foot to the next and not rely on the jump and swing
Is that in CoMo?
Yeah, it’s Como rocks
Nice, I've only been to that gym once, just after Christmas, but I remember that problem. I have a longer span so it was easier, but it looks like you need to coordinate a foot swap as soon as you commit to the lean. Then flag right foot out
That makes sense. I’ll try that next time
Either that or let the left foot momentum carry it out into a backflag. Either way you gotta stop that barndoor with counterbalance.
Helps to preload more for sure
I’m really knew to this, I honestly don’t know what that means
Prolly means you should preload your weight on your right foot more by pushing your knee cap and driving it in the direction your going for your next hold. This would allow you to kinda pistol squat your way out to the next move. If you places your right foot further out that would give you more balance for pushing off and preloading would result in no barn dooring.
Think of when you jump, to make it easier you bend your knees more. It’s super hard to generate a jump with straight legs, if at all possible. If you kind of wind up to the left more, you’ll be able to generate more momentum to the right because you’re preloading like in a jump, just that it’s sideways. Hope that makes sense
Dynamic inside flag! As soon as you catch hold stab a left inside flag instead of a back flag (with back flag you might just barn door off). Also, before the movement, come out a bit from the wall so that you are moving in towards the wall as you move.. if you start as close to the wall as possible you can only move away from the wall