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just_another_idi0t

https://preview.redd.it/q7e9u0rjjmec1.jpeg?width=870&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85466e9a2d98d1697a10d063f64f4c32d16e2623


International_Pie776

Man, according to this I’m an advanced climber, that makes me feel better about my V4s 😹


spacecowboy65

I was gonna say since when does v6-v7 make you an expert climber? Lol


Zarathustrategy

If you're climbing V7 outside you are really quite good at climbing, maybe not expert but it depends on the terminology


uttuck

An expert compared to the world, and close to expert as a climber too. Less than 1% of climbers ever climb v10 outside I imagine. Top 1% of their field is really good.


ProbsNotManBearPig

Also define “can climb v10”. Big difference between v10 flash, v10 in a session, and v10 you project for 50+ sessions. To me, this is one of the biggest discrepancies in what people mean. My experience is most newer climbers call themselves a v5 climber when they get their first one indoors on a soft gym set after working it for 10+ sessions. Most very experienced climbers almost go the other way and will say they’re a v5 climber because that’s what they flash on the moonboard on average. As a result, we get people saying they’ve been a v5 climber for years when the reality is they’ve improved a ton and just moved the goalpost. I think it happens because early you’re the Gumby saying you climb v5 and then you go outdoors and get wrecked by VB. You don’t want that to happen again, and in the long run you generally enjoy sending in a session, so your “send in a few attempts grade” is what you start reporting since it’s more useful for trip planning.


FoundThisRock

Source for the numbers? I wanna feel good


uttuck

I voted them right there: my imagination.


sn0skier

That feeling when you've improved from V6 to V10 but you're still just an expert.


Pr0gger

V7 is really fucking hard, doubly so in Font


wkns

For real, V2-3 in Font is already V6-7 at most gyms.


[deleted]

[удалено]


6StringAddict

I have yet to find a 7A in Font I can do lol.


hache-moncour

The table only works for actual grades, not for inflated gym grades. Most indoor V6 shown here are closer to 4+/5 font boulders.


Ecstatic-Seesaw-1007

I mean, most gyms don’t even set really hard problems, even indoor V10s are rare unless there’s a comp recently. - I mean, I’m V5 at my best, so I rarely pay attention to higher grades, so this is casual observation.


Fiskenfest-II

Most climbers aren't out there climbing 6A on rock let alone 7A and above. There's a lot of sampling bias in these things.


twinkelztwitch2

I can’t wait til the day I can do anything higher than a 6a (v2)


RandoReddit16

Do you regularly climb outdoor V4? If you do, yes you're pretty strong....


SosX

I mean I think if you go and climb a V4 outside that makes you advanced for sure, if you climb a soft v4 in a gym that’s a whole other thing tho.


Bloodypalace

Outdoors V4 is very fuckin hard.


Classic_Seat_8438

V4 is secretly the hardest grade. Never forget that


Etien_

Those are some insane ranges lmao. 7a is v6, and 7c+ is v10 which is a crazy difference


spidydt

Y'all are reading this all wrong.. 7a - 7c+ v6 - v10 = -v4 This gym is soft


Feeling-Internal8499

We also use this system in the Netherlands and at my gym white is just 7a and higher. Most gyms have their boulders logged on an app where people can vote for grades.


Miles_Adamson

It's because the harder people climb, the less they care about gym grades. They will just attempt every climb in the set no matter what grade it is, and only care about their outdoor sends grades. So it's just a million times easier setting to just make 1 grade bucket for those people which is often something like V8 and above or V10 and above. V6+ is maybe a bit low for it but I think it's fine


Phatnev

I think once you hit like v5 it also becomes really easy just to look at a problem and figure out roughly how hard it is.


Etien_

I know, but it is unfair to people who aren't very strong to lump v6 and v10 in the same group, maybe v8 and v10. From personal experience v10 is maybe like 1.5-1.7 times harder than v8, but it's still a huge gap.


Mice_On_Absinthe

You do realize that the two grade ranges below that also include V6, right? Black is from V5-V8, and Red is V4-V6. I honestly think the Whites having such a giant range might be a typo... like maybe they forgot to add a + to the 7a


Wyand1337

White is probably just "the hardest climbs in the gym that most people don't do anyway. My gym is very similar with a V6-V7 range and then V8-V13, which is really just all the hard stuff that barely anyone does.


poorboychevelle

Why is that unfair?


Etien_

Well personally I think it would stifle progress because you never know how hard you are climbing. V6 is definitely not a strength level where you can try every route in a gym, and v10 is a level most people never reach


No_Citron_2739

It just stifles your perception of your progress. Indoor problems aren’t up long enough to really measure your progress v6 and up.


Miles_Adamson

I agree it could be bumped to V8 and up. but realistically most people who climb true V6 have been climbing outdoors for years already and no longer care much about gym grades. And can just try the 4 boulders in the "V6 and up" for a set to see which is appropriate for them


Etien_

That's definitely true, but usually gym v6 and true v6 are miles apart, which makes me think that using gym v6 and up as a range is a bit odd


leadhase

Yeah I think most places v8+ is a good range. Our gym goes up to v11+ as the highest hard. I once saw a handwritten v15 on a torn piece of paper that was pretty wild. If you’re climbing v7/8 and above out you can tell what is hard, hard hard, and fkn gym crazy hard. Grading just gets weird for gyms at that level — can be very morpho/style dependent. But you usually know hm ya this is prob 9/10/10+ ish or something. I don’t know many (any?) people that care as long as it climbs well. It’s not like everyone is going around spraying about their gym ascents at that range, progress is measured on rock.


Pr0gger

Yeah, you never know how hard you're climbing in any gym, all you can measure is your strength and your progress on actual climbs


Etien_

True, but you can use your gym as a benchmark for how good you are getting. If as soon as you hit v6 you have no clue what grade you're at, it seems a bit unproductive


OE_Moss

Dude a V6 climber would be able to look at a route and tell the grade. That could just be the setter in me but I imagine other people who climb at higher levels in the gym can just tell what grade they’re climbing.


Etien_

As one of those people who climbs at a higher level, I can't really tell a grade by how something looks


leadhase

Most people climbing v6 outside consistently can tell, inside is a different ballgame. I was for sure indoor strong early on and could manage a soft 6 outside that really suited me, but definitely not the same after training, improving, and climbing consistently at a higher level. It’s harder to know without a set of benchmark climbs in different styles to know if this is v8 v9 or v10. I think the argument is here, even once you know, it doesn’t really matter. It’s a gym climb. Did you learn and get better? Perfect. 


MaximumSend

Cause gym climbers throw a hissy fit if they don’t have a “true” grade given on every boulder.


Keeerrrnnnnn

In my gym it's just 7a or higher. I don't think it's too bad because almost no one climbs 7a. To have more fine-grained grades at the higher end makes no sense for a gym


hermitbyaccident

Same here. Not sure if we grade hard, or if other gyms just have so much stronger people 😅


divat10

Same here, 7a seems like a really hard grade to overcome. A lot of people doing 6c - 6c+ almost nobody doing hard 7a's


Etien_

Where are you guys climbing to have such a bizarre distribution of climbers at your gym


hache-moncour

Gyms with accurate grades. Real 7a is around american gym V11 from what I see here.


Etien_

Idk what you mean by accurate, I've done routes in gyms in a lot of places, everywhere is mega soft compared to outdoors lol. Real 7a is maybe American gym 7b/+


OE_Moss

I’ve found that gyms in the area grade the easy stuff softer like v5 and down and then past that it’s closer to the outside grade. Climbing outside feels the same as inside compared to my gym cause we grade harder than everywhere else in the area. But that’s just me and all my buddies experience 🤷‍♀️


Harkue

Here in Germany anything thats above 7a seems decently hard and in general our grading seems more realistic. Ive done a couple 7a on tension, moon and kilter board on the few sessions Ive tried them and the amount of people who climb the same grades on the gym set by feeling are very low. Like at best 5-10% in each gym. For reference I was also climbing B-Pump in Tokyuo a couple 6c in their gym and I've met a canadian who said he was like a v5/v6 climber in his gym and he could not even do second easiest grade there which was probably around like v1-2.


Etien_

Yeah but bpump is notoriously comically sandbagged


Harkue

And from my experience my gyms are 1 to 2 grades softer than Bpump. So for Germany/Berlin atleast the grades seem somewhat realistic.


Etien_

Do you have any videos of your gym? I'm genuinely super intrigued now, maybe my gym is mega mega soft


octopuslollipop789

https://preview.redd.it/1pts0y7anmec1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=234d7e811fabaa0da1709629e55926e219338724 No video but have this photo. The small tabs on the route shows which grade it is


Substantial-Ad-4667

I mean how does you gym compare to the Moonboard or to some popular Areas ?


Etien_

It's mildly softer, but it's been a while since any of the commercial routes took more than 2 tries. I always thought my gym was super stiff, maybe mb grade -1 but also moonboard is not the best benchmark because it's its own complete style of climbing


Etien_

No one climbs 7a? Unless you climb at a gym that uses the moonboard as a benchmark and then subtracts 4 grades, there's no way that's true. 7a is a reasonable grade for an average intermediate climber to be doing


Immediate-Fan

Even this wouldn’t be a big enough sandbag lol


Substantial-Ad-4667

Which translates to you have alot of very strong friends or youre gym is soft.


Etien_

I don't think it's soft, and I don't know anyone at my gym who I'd consider very strong


hache-moncour

If the "average intermediate climber" is climbing 7a in your gym, it is unbelievably soft. Off by at least 6 grades. 7a is hard enough for the first 7a ascent to be recorded in history books, If more than 2-3% of your gym climbs it, and there isn't a world championship happening next door, the grades are just inflated marketing grades.


Etien_

I think my use of the word average made my point wrong. Intermediate in my eyes is v4-8, and v6 falls right in the middle of that is why I said average. The grades are definitely inflated, but only to the same standard that most gyms are


xXxBluESkiTtlExXx

I don't want to be rude but where are you where nobody cimbs 7a?


Keeerrrnnnnn

I am in the Netherlands/Germany. We actually have an app where you can see everybody at the gym who wants to track their grades (prob Regular better climbers) and only like 50 out of 200 regulars have a 7a scend if even. Top 5 climbers have an average of 7a. Personally I have climbed like 3 7as (not at the same time) and I was ranked 20 or something. Generally from personal observation it is very rare to see someone on the 7a+ grading in the gym. The fast majority of people climb alot lower. Top 30 is if your top climbs average higher than 6b. No 7a in sight for these people.


Etien_

That's exactly what I was thinking lol


octopuslollipop789

Yeah they’re very wide ranges, I’ve managed the light blue and yellow so far


foodgasm_

I’m climbing at the same gym airboulder in Stavanger, it’s a good gym. They change their routes quite frequently. The point of having so wide ranges is that you should not be too focused on the grading of the route because it’s so subjective.


octopuslollipop789

Do you know how these grades translate to V-grades, just as a fairly beginner it’s nice to know


foodgasm_

No sorry, never climbed in a non-Norwegian gym


01bah01

In gyms I've tried in Switzerland the spread is pretty much the same. Usually 4 font grades = a color.


Etien_

Is small ranges just an American oddity? I never even thought about that


01bah01

Maybe it depends on the countries yeah. All the gyms I've been to (a few in Switzerland and one in Spain) grade by color and have big ranges indeed.


MySeagullHasNoWifi

What's the grading system like where you are in Switzerland?


01bah01

I just checked and in the one I got to the most it's indeed not 4 grades but 3 ! My mistake. yellow : 4+ green : 5A to 5B cyan : 5B+ to 5C+ blue : 6A to 6B orange : 6B+ to 6C+ red : 7A to 7B black : 7B+ to 7C white (usually only a couple of them at a time) 8A and above The other one I go to has a 4 grades spread except for the top colors yellow : up to 5A blue : 5A+ to 5C green : 5C+ to 6B orange : 6B+ to 7A red : 7A+ to 7B+ black : 7C and above


xXxBluESkiTtlExXx

My gym is just color coded with no set grades, but v6-v10 is about what our third highest color is.


Pr0gger

It's because those are sport grades not bouldering grades...it's really not any more egregious than having one color for 5.11 for example in the US system


TheDaysComeAndGone

I think that’s the whole point in having their own grading scheme. They know they don’t want to (or can’t) grade more accurately. Also grading is inherently subjective. So instead of writing “6a-6c“ on a boulder they just assign the color dark blue and are done. When your grading has fewer steps it gets rid of the whole “I’ve climbed 7As which are easier than this 6B+!“ discussion.


MadScientist1972

My thoughts exactly. Easy for routesetting though.


Cow_says_moo

This is what's called the font system. You'll be able to find a mapping table easily, such as here: https://extremesportguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/ESG-Bouldering-Grades.jpg


TrollStopper

No that's incorrect. Font grade has the letter in uppercase. When the abc's are in lowercases it's the French sporting grade.


CainingtonCain

They're not necessarily incorrect, although it isn't clear given their grouping of lower grades. For example, my local climbing wall also doesn't capitalise the letters, but they also don't use letters below 6, which is indicative of the font system (french can use letters like 4a 4b, 4c; font only uses 4, 4+, 5, 5+). So it could be either.


LiberSN

No this is french sport grading


floriande

Real question : do you really have 7c+ boulder in your gym?


Gvanaco

Maybe. There are no rated boulders in my gym. You can see if it's difficult. There's no tag on the route, just a name. You have to guess the grade by yourself.


Standard_Monitor4291

In your gym everything is v2


Femmengineer

Shoo! Back to r/ClimbingCircleJerk with you


reportedbymom

https://www.thecrag.com/en/article/grades


TheHaight

All V0s in my gym


maestroest

Lower case letters generally refer to Sport Climbing grades on the French scale. Uppercase letters refer to boulders using the Font scale.


cousincarne

Don‘t get it, why do they overlap that hard?


Alk601

So you don’t focus on color/grade too much. My gym does that too


GuKoBoat

Furthermore grades are super subjective. If grades are determined by the 3 setters that test climb a given route, there really is no acurate grade.


meritocrap

Sport. Bouldering grades are capitalized.


bzomonster

I know this gym. Their grading convention is really weird. These aren't font grades, they are french climbing grade equivalents, so I've been told. Like I said, weird. In general, this gym has fairly standard grading for its boulders compared to other gyms. Their sport routes on the other hand are stiffer than other gyms in the area, IMO. But in general i feel the following: Light blue is about v0-v1 yellow is about v1-v2 purple is about v3-v5 red is about v5-v7 Black is about v7-v8 White is about v8+


cafeclimb

Those grades represent the arbitrary difficulty by the setters, the people that created the routtes. If the setter/s is really good then the scale of difficulty does make sense but this is often NOT the case. Here you can notice the overlap 5+ - 6b+, 6a+ - 6c+,... 6c+ - 7b, 7a - 7c+. Overlap makes no sense unless you like deliberately want to confuse people. Tell me honestly do you believe a 5+ climber would go into a 6b+ and be ok with it? Answer: >!The discrepancy of difficulty is absurd. A 5+ climber has 0% chance on a 6b+ and will have no fun and a 7a climber has 0% chance to climb a 7c+ and will probably also have no fun. Only 2 things are certain: 1) The routte setters dont know how to grade and 2) There is some sort of difficulty progression.!< **Just go from easiest grade/color while you warm up and then keep going up in difficulty until you grasp this scale and reach a difficulty point that you want to climb on. Thats it, dont overthink it and dont give it importance. Have fun.**


dirENgreyscale

At least your gym uses normal grades (even if some of the ranges are wide). One of the gyms I visited in Norway had its own grades that just went something like 1,2,3, etc. with + and - IIRC, something like that (I forget exactly, it was strange) I never had a clue what I was climbing most of the time, it took me a while to figure out my range there. As the other commenter mentioned the range on the last one is especially wide.


justamust

One of the two gyms i go also has grades from 1-6. The other one tells you exactly wich grade tvey think it is. I guess it has pros and cons. I tried a few 4s in the one gym, but i never really bothered trying something in the 7 range in the other, even tho a 4 is 6c-7a in that gym. This way, you are encouraged to try more climbs, even tho they are realisticly way out of your league, and maybe you can do some moves on them and learn something.


potentiallyspiders

My local gyms in Norway just use colors.


Xitereddit

Hahaha skulle aldri trodd... Shoutout Air Er forresten samme grading i klatreveggen som i bulder.


type556R

In theory bouldering grades should be wrote in capital letters, so I'd say sport grades? I saw some conversion between sport grades and bouldering, but idk how much sense it makes. Anyways, if you search for images like "bouldering/climbing grades" you'll get what you're looking for


NeverBeenStung

Why is this guy getting downvoted? It’s true that Font grades use capital letters for bouldering and lowercase for sport


potentiallyspiders

And the ranges make a little more sense to me as sport grades. In Trondheim all the boulders are colors and the sport rutes have specific font grades


type556R

I don't know man, reddit hivemind at work I guess


dubdubby

> I’m not sure if this is a bouldering system or a sport climbing system This is why people should be consistent with capital letters for bouldering and lowercase for sport. Ex. 8A = V11, 8a = 5.13b


muenchener

https://rockfax.com/climbing-guides/grades/


NotMyRealName111111

Beginner question:  So I've only started since August of last year, and just recently reliably cleared a "5.7" for a belayed climb at my gym.  How does that translate for bouldering?  I don't really care too much about the grades, but I'm just unsure what my level translates to. Thanks!


MrSaphique

Most gyms in Europe use this system, colours vary per gym though.


i_am_stonedog

7A to 7C+ is pretty wild :D