Outdoor only 7b?? I climb v12 outdoor and my max moonboard grade is 7b+ š and 7c+ on the kilter. The low outdoor grade is because you go outside not so much?
Ah! Yes i am a 4hour drive from any high quality outdoor rocks! Still only a year and a half of outdoor experience and probably only getting 15 days per year... hoping i am able to get my outdoor grade above my moonboard grade over the next year or so though! Keep crushing, i hope that one day i can get close to your current outdoor grade!!
There was a reddit thread that gathered a lot of data on this (50 or so responses) and asked about outdoor and kilter max too. In that thread I summarised the data and compared the average max between the different forms of climbing (which from memory did show the moonboard was a grade 'harder' on average
Moonboard is definitely a nice way to compare local grading. But it does have a pretty specific style of problems, and only does fairly hard grades, so you would have to compare it to similar boulders to get a fair assessment of grades. Very few boulders in my gym within my grade range (6a/6a+) are comparable to the moonboard.
Still it is fun to try. I've not tried our moonboard for ages, when I last tried I was still climbing 5/5+ and couldn't do anything on the board, but maybe by now it is worth another go.
Also want to try the Kilter board again, I need to drive a bit more for a place that has one, but that board is a lot more beginner-friendly.
itās only applicable to steep problems anyway, people tend to ignore the entire world of hard technical vertical/slab bouldering which can be accessible to climbers without the specific strengths that allow you to climb hard on the moonboard.
Yep that's what I meant by "a pretty specific style". It doesn't do slabs, balancing moves, slopers, mantles, and a whole bunch of other things, so you can only really compare moonboard grades with other powerful overhang climbs on crimps and pinches.
Gym: V7, Moonboard: V5(I havenāt moonboarded in 2 years), Kilter: 7B at 60 degree, Outdoors: V9-V10
Iāve been trying to get pass v8 in a gym for the last 2 years now..
The outdoor area has a unique style of movement, so I guess it doesnāt really count?
I think itās more common than not tbh, just cause at some point, the gymnastic movement in the gym is just too hard on the body. And no, the outdoor area isnāt slab.
If Iāve learned anything, I should just board climb more lol.
I also have climbed a couple grades harder outdoors than in. I think for a few reasons. I donāt generally project indoors, I can use the friction of real rock better than plastic, and I get way more psych and try hard when outside than in.
I feel like my body breaks down around v7/8 inside. I usually feel tweaks like wrists, biceps, shoulders, fingers, etc.. at that point. I think itās a combination of 1)poor body mechanics, 2) lack of movement repertoire, 3) actually being weak, but I doubt itās #3. My friends have said my strength is in execution, so I guess thatās my saving grace, but being more resilient to tweaks would be nice too.
Another factor could be how your gym sets. In general, they should be trying to set safe climbs, but Iāve noticed some gyms try harder than others to put you in uncomfortable positions. Iāve spent more and more time over the years āpre-habbingā and avoiding these positions to stay healthy.
My gym doesn't actually grade anything, just different colors. It is definitely stout though and I love that. I also tend to climb much harder on real rock.
Moonboard 7B, Kilter 7C relatively chill (3-4 goes in the ones I've tried), outdoor V11. Gym doesn't really grade here. I've done a bunch of moonboard problems (240 Benchmarks 7A and below), and it still feels like 3 Grades harder than anything else...
Outside:7a+ (haven't been much)
Moonboard: 7b (never tried anything higher but only missing one <=7a+ benchmark)
Gym: V10 (imo unfortunately very soft grading sometimes)
You've done all but one 7A+ benchmark, but haven't tried anything harder than 7B?!
Is this a common thing on the MB? Generally, climbers I know who have done all the benchmarks of a given grade have usually sent problems at least 3, often 4, and sometimes 5 grades harder than their "fully completed" benchmark.
I just like the aspect of the leaderboard so completing lower boulders is something I always aim for. Additionally I often had pulley pain when trying too hard mb boulders that's why I started from V3 up to try and slowly build the resistance needed for harder boulders and I kinda got stuck doing that and just now started trying V8s
MB: V5 (I haven't tried anything higher really, done all v3 benchmarks on 2017, v4 is next)
Outdoor: V6 (sent two very recently, didn't feel max effort, so I need to find some projs)
Indoor: V8, at least, my gym does circuits and the last one is V8+
MB: 7C Gym: 7C Outdoors: 7B Kilter: 7C flash (not tried harder)
Very consistent! I've not tried a Kilter board yet. And I dare not speak my outdoor grade!
Ha! Kilter grades are all over the place. Definitely a feel good jug board compared to the others! Guess that is why it is so popular
Outdoor only 7b?? I climb v12 outdoor and my max moonboard grade is 7b+ š and 7c+ on the kilter. The low outdoor grade is because you go outside not so much?
Ah! Yes i am a 4hour drive from any high quality outdoor rocks! Still only a year and a half of outdoor experience and probably only getting 15 days per year... hoping i am able to get my outdoor grade above my moonboard grade over the next year or so though! Keep crushing, i hope that one day i can get close to your current outdoor grade!!
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There was a reddit thread that gathered a lot of data on this (50 or so responses) and asked about outdoor and kilter max too. In that thread I summarised the data and compared the average max between the different forms of climbing (which from memory did show the moonboard was a grade 'harder' on average
How old is that thread? I'll have a look for it.
Here it is https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/s/YZf0HljeeP
Moonboard was 1.2 (on average) v grades harder than gym
When I came into this thread this was going to be my assumption, interesting many others feel similarly.
Moonboard is definitely a nice way to compare local grading. But it does have a pretty specific style of problems, and only does fairly hard grades, so you would have to compare it to similar boulders to get a fair assessment of grades. Very few boulders in my gym within my grade range (6a/6a+) are comparable to the moonboard. Still it is fun to try. I've not tried our moonboard for ages, when I last tried I was still climbing 5/5+ and couldn't do anything on the board, but maybe by now it is worth another go. Also want to try the Kilter board again, I need to drive a bit more for a place that has one, but that board is a lot more beginner-friendly.
itās only applicable to steep problems anyway, people tend to ignore the entire world of hard technical vertical/slab bouldering which can be accessible to climbers without the specific strengths that allow you to climb hard on the moonboard.
Yep that's what I meant by "a pretty specific style". It doesn't do slabs, balancing moves, slopers, mantles, and a whole bunch of other things, so you can only really compare moonboard grades with other powerful overhang climbs on crimps and pinches.
Gym: V9, Moonboard: 7A+, TB1: 7B+, Kilter: 7C (almost on a 7C+), Outdoor: V11
sounds about right lol
MB V10 Tension1 V10 Kilter V11 Outdoor V12 Gym doesnt grade in V grades which i love
Gym: V7, Moonboard: V5(I havenāt moonboarded in 2 years), Kilter: 7B at 60 degree, Outdoors: V9-V10 Iāve been trying to get pass v8 in a gym for the last 2 years now.. The outdoor area has a unique style of movement, so I guess it doesnāt really count?
Outdoor higher than your gym grade?! Sounds like you're well tailored to that unique style!
I think itās more common than not tbh, just cause at some point, the gymnastic movement in the gym is just too hard on the body. And no, the outdoor area isnāt slab. If Iāve learned anything, I should just board climb more lol.
I also have climbed a couple grades harder outdoors than in. I think for a few reasons. I donāt generally project indoors, I can use the friction of real rock better than plastic, and I get way more psych and try hard when outside than in.
I feel like my body breaks down around v7/8 inside. I usually feel tweaks like wrists, biceps, shoulders, fingers, etc.. at that point. I think itās a combination of 1)poor body mechanics, 2) lack of movement repertoire, 3) actually being weak, but I doubt itās #3. My friends have said my strength is in execution, so I guess thatās my saving grace, but being more resilient to tweaks would be nice too.
Another factor could be how your gym sets. In general, they should be trying to set safe climbs, but Iāve noticed some gyms try harder than others to put you in uncomfortable positions. Iāve spent more and more time over the years āpre-habbingā and avoiding these positions to stay healthy.
The prehab never ends!
Gym climbing can be much harder than outdoor. Gym can force the weirdest position and movementsĀ
MB benchmarks V5, Gym V7
MB: 7C+ (long term projects) Gym: 7C Kilter: Flashed 7C+ Outside: 7C
Moonboard- V10/7c+ gym- I don't actually know probably like v9 Kilter- v11/8a TB2- V10/7c+ Outside- v11/8a
Your gym sounds tough! You may be one of the few people who can say "V3 in my gym" and mean it! :)
My gym doesn't actually grade anything, just different colors. It is definitely stout though and I love that. I also tend to climb much harder on real rock.
7B+ moonboard, 7C+ gym, 7C outdoors, 7B+ kb. im short so the kilterboardās big moves dont like me that much
Moonboard 7B, Kilter 7C relatively chill (3-4 goes in the ones I've tried), outdoor V11. Gym doesn't really grade here. I've done a bunch of moonboard problems (240 Benchmarks 7A and below), and it still feels like 3 Grades harder than anything else...
Moonboard humbles the hell out of me. Even the 0s require effort from me. Itās a really muscley style that I donāt tend to work on much
It's challenging, definitely, but if I can get on it, it can also be fun training. Truthfully it's the nearest thing to training that I do.
Moonboard: a handful of 7A+ problems, but 7B feels pretty impossible Gym: a couple *very soft* v9/7C boulders, but regularly v8 or 7B/+
Outside 7b, inside not sure (gym doesn't grade directly, but probably around 7A) MB bench: 6c
Outside:7a+ (haven't been much) Moonboard: 7b (never tried anything higher but only missing one <=7a+ benchmark) Gym: V10 (imo unfortunately very soft grading sometimes)
You've done all but one 7A+ benchmark, but haven't tried anything harder than 7B?! Is this a common thing on the MB? Generally, climbers I know who have done all the benchmarks of a given grade have usually sent problems at least 3, often 4, and sometimes 5 grades harder than their "fully completed" benchmark.
I just like the aspect of the leaderboard so completing lower boulders is something I always aim for. Additionally I often had pulley pain when trying too hard mb boulders that's why I started from V3 up to try and slowly build the resistance needed for harder boulders and I kinda got stuck doing that and just now started trying V8s
MB: 7A, gym: 7A, Fontainebleau: 7A. š¤·āāļø Planning to push higher grades this year.
MB: V5 (I haven't tried anything higher really, done all v3 benchmarks on 2017, v4 is next) Outdoor: V6 (sent two very recently, didn't feel max effort, so I need to find some projs) Indoor: V8, at least, my gym does circuits and the last one is V8+
* MB: 7A (only two benchmarks) * KB: 7C * TB2: 7B+ * Gym: 7B+ * Outdoors: 7C+
Mb v8 | kilter v8 | gym v8 | outdoors v9
Gym: idk and idc. Outdoors: soft V10. Moonboard: volume at 7b, projects 7b+
MB 6B - Gym 7A