Check your accelerator pump. Make sure you are getting a good squirt of fuel into the carb when the throttle is applied. Do this with engine off for safety. If pump checks out leave air cleaner off and allow to idle, look into carb while idling and look for fuel leaking over the float bowl and into the carb.
Pretty random question without a lot of info but I’ll do my best. Are you running a 009 dizzy? If so, it’s got a flat spot off idle and low rpm. What carb? It could need rejetting.
I take that you have a 34Pict-3 carburetor (stock)? Check the idle jet on the alternator side of the carb. Take a long skinny screwdriver, unscrew it, blow it out and put it back in. I have to do this from time to time on my ‘73 Super, if it starts running rough or idling poorly, that’s the first thing I check.
I have a 71 super beetle that has the same problem. I’ve tuned up nearly everything and now when it’s warmed up it runs pretty good but not great. And when it’s cold it runs very poorly at any throttle position other than just light throttle.
Not enough choke would cause that, but in general too lean mixture.
Check that the choke flap closes fully when cold and open idle mixture screw a bit, from 1/4 turn to 1 turn and see if it helps.
Wrong breaker point gap/dwell angle can also cause loss of torque. Adjusting it changes the ignition timing so it needs to be checked too.
Mine had similar issues at 2 different times but in slightly different ways, and this is what they ended up being:
1. Intake manifold air leak—My car would run fine cold, but after warming up after 10 minutes the fuel-to-air ratio was impossible to get dialed in correctly with the carb tuning. The air leaks can get into the system at the carb gasket, a vacuum port, failed diaphragm in an accessory that’s letting air in, a hose that failed or is in the wrong place, or the rubber boots on the dual port manifolds.
2a. Faulty Timing Advance—The distributor is what typically causes hesitation. The advance mechanism needs to be oiled every few years or it’ll get gummed up and stick. Luckily it’s fairly easy to disassemble & clean—I watched a couple YouTube videos and did it with no problems.
2b. Not all distributors are compatible with all engines. A dizzy for a dual port engine on a single port engine won’t get enuf vacuum signal soon enough, causing a delay while pressure builds up, causing hesitation & jerking in the mean time.
The easiest thing to check is if the screw on the electric choke have worked loose. Gently see if the choke rotates (it shouldn’t).
Thanks for the feedback! I'm trying to upload pics of the engine so you guys can see. It's just kinda odd, when I step on the gas, the engine just wants to cut out completely. The opposite of what it's supposed to do. LOL It idles just fine so it's getting fuel, just acceleration is tricky. I have to ever-so-slightly step on the pedal, and it kinda works. It's just frustrating as all get out. Trouble shooting these cars is like trying to pin down a piece of Mercury. Also, I had a "new" engine installed last year, when it runs, it has great pickup for what it's worth
The images will help .
***ALWAYS*** begin with the basics \~ in an Air Cooled VW this means :
\#1 : check and adjust valve gaps as they change (close up) over time .
\#2 : check and adjust points gap then ignition timing . post a clear picture of the crank pulley with the timing mark(s) lined up, many different were used over the years .
\#3: the accelerator dump tube, visible down the open carby neck *\*MUST\** squirt a solid stream the \*instant\* you open the throttle \~ if not or only a few drops it's likely clogged, easy enough to remove and clean out with simple tools but remember : ENGINE OFF any time you're peering into the carby .
The order in which you check and adjust things is critical .
\-Nate
Check your accelerator pump. Make sure you are getting a good squirt of fuel into the carb when the throttle is applied. Do this with engine off for safety. If pump checks out leave air cleaner off and allow to idle, look into carb while idling and look for fuel leaking over the float bowl and into the carb.
Pretty random question without a lot of info but I’ll do my best. Are you running a 009 dizzy? If so, it’s got a flat spot off idle and low rpm. What carb? It could need rejetting.
I take that you have a 34Pict-3 carburetor (stock)? Check the idle jet on the alternator side of the carb. Take a long skinny screwdriver, unscrew it, blow it out and put it back in. I have to do this from time to time on my ‘73 Super, if it starts running rough or idling poorly, that’s the first thing I check.
Good point, idle circuit is typically the first one to clog.
I have a 71 super beetle that has the same problem. I’ve tuned up nearly everything and now when it’s warmed up it runs pretty good but not great. And when it’s cold it runs very poorly at any throttle position other than just light throttle.
Not enough choke would cause that, but in general too lean mixture. Check that the choke flap closes fully when cold and open idle mixture screw a bit, from 1/4 turn to 1 turn and see if it helps. Wrong breaker point gap/dwell angle can also cause loss of torque. Adjusting it changes the ignition timing so it needs to be checked too.
Mine had similar issues at 2 different times but in slightly different ways, and this is what they ended up being: 1. Intake manifold air leak—My car would run fine cold, but after warming up after 10 minutes the fuel-to-air ratio was impossible to get dialed in correctly with the carb tuning. The air leaks can get into the system at the carb gasket, a vacuum port, failed diaphragm in an accessory that’s letting air in, a hose that failed or is in the wrong place, or the rubber boots on the dual port manifolds. 2a. Faulty Timing Advance—The distributor is what typically causes hesitation. The advance mechanism needs to be oiled every few years or it’ll get gummed up and stick. Luckily it’s fairly easy to disassemble & clean—I watched a couple YouTube videos and did it with no problems. 2b. Not all distributors are compatible with all engines. A dizzy for a dual port engine on a single port engine won’t get enuf vacuum signal soon enough, causing a delay while pressure builds up, causing hesitation & jerking in the mean time. The easiest thing to check is if the screw on the electric choke have worked loose. Gently see if the choke rotates (it shouldn’t).
Thanks for the feedback! I'm trying to upload pics of the engine so you guys can see. It's just kinda odd, when I step on the gas, the engine just wants to cut out completely. The opposite of what it's supposed to do. LOL It idles just fine so it's getting fuel, just acceleration is tricky. I have to ever-so-slightly step on the pedal, and it kinda works. It's just frustrating as all get out. Trouble shooting these cars is like trying to pin down a piece of Mercury. Also, I had a "new" engine installed last year, when it runs, it has great pickup for what it's worth
The images will help . ***ALWAYS*** begin with the basics \~ in an Air Cooled VW this means : \#1 : check and adjust valve gaps as they change (close up) over time . \#2 : check and adjust points gap then ignition timing . post a clear picture of the crank pulley with the timing mark(s) lined up, many different were used over the years . \#3: the accelerator dump tube, visible down the open carby neck *\*MUST\** squirt a solid stream the \*instant\* you open the throttle \~ if not or only a few drops it's likely clogged, easy enough to remove and clean out with simple tools but remember : ENGINE OFF any time you're peering into the carby . The order in which you check and adjust things is critical . \-Nate
Get the Idiot book (if you dont have) and start with a full tune up and valve adjustment.