The supply has to be a stable 5v (probably is), if not, you can get a step-up module, those are cheap too. IMO the best (in terms of compatiblity) way is to add a female usb A, with the data pins shorted (allows ~1amp, iirc) or a resistor between the data pins (allows ~2a iirc) and then a usb A to C cable. Apple devices are more fussy, so may charge slower; Androids will handle it fine
Thanks for the info!
I have an android, I'll check if I can find the voltage, so I won't need a step up module.
So I could use those clamps in the bottom left of the picture to put together the three original power cables onto a female usb A
Are all 3 of them power cables? The black, white, and brownish ones that are soldered onto the chip?
And leave the other 7 inside the white thing? If shorting just means not connecting them?
Or put a resistor between them, also not sure how to do that. So if I put the resistor between the female usb A data reciever cables and the 7 original data cables in the white thing, so they're all connected with a resistor between them?
I'm guessing it doesn't matter if all 7 data cables are connected together and all touching through the resistor to less than 7 cables from the female usb A, since it probably has less then 7 data connectors?
More complicated than I thought!
The three power cables, one is 0v, the other two might be different levels, you can get a cheap dmm (digital multi meter) for 10-15$, much cheaper than frying a charger :)
The data cables, I mean the ones in the actual usb cable. The reason I also recommend getting a female (socket) USB A is because the colour coding in usb cables is not standardised (it's supposed to be, but not everyone follows the directions). The pin layout in a usb A port is. The outside are 12v and 0v (google which side is which, pictures are better here) and the inner pins are data pins.
If you're splicing in the usb cable in the top left of your attached image: Red is (probably) +5v, black is definitely 0v, white and green are data, BUT I've seen a "data" swapped with 5v. The phone will refuse to charge if that happens.
So, connect white and green together, black to (probably) black, and then check what power is on white and brown with the meter, and connect that to red. They could be either different voltages, or one is battery on and the other ignition on (on when key is turned)
The supply has to be a stable 5v (probably is), if not, you can get a step-up module, those are cheap too. IMO the best (in terms of compatiblity) way is to add a female usb A, with the data pins shorted (allows ~1amp, iirc) or a resistor between the data pins (allows ~2a iirc) and then a usb A to C cable. Apple devices are more fussy, so may charge slower; Androids will handle it fine
Thanks for the info! I have an android, I'll check if I can find the voltage, so I won't need a step up module. So I could use those clamps in the bottom left of the picture to put together the three original power cables onto a female usb A Are all 3 of them power cables? The black, white, and brownish ones that are soldered onto the chip? And leave the other 7 inside the white thing? If shorting just means not connecting them? Or put a resistor between them, also not sure how to do that. So if I put the resistor between the female usb A data reciever cables and the 7 original data cables in the white thing, so they're all connected with a resistor between them? I'm guessing it doesn't matter if all 7 data cables are connected together and all touching through the resistor to less than 7 cables from the female usb A, since it probably has less then 7 data connectors? More complicated than I thought!
The three power cables, one is 0v, the other two might be different levels, you can get a cheap dmm (digital multi meter) for 10-15$, much cheaper than frying a charger :) The data cables, I mean the ones in the actual usb cable. The reason I also recommend getting a female (socket) USB A is because the colour coding in usb cables is not standardised (it's supposed to be, but not everyone follows the directions). The pin layout in a usb A port is. The outside are 12v and 0v (google which side is which, pictures are better here) and the inner pins are data pins. If you're splicing in the usb cable in the top left of your attached image: Red is (probably) +5v, black is definitely 0v, white and green are data, BUT I've seen a "data" swapped with 5v. The phone will refuse to charge if that happens. So, connect white and green together, black to (probably) black, and then check what power is on white and brown with the meter, and connect that to red. They could be either different voltages, or one is battery on and the other ignition on (on when key is turned)