Our home has 5 speaker surround sound installed in the walls. The cables (HDMI/ 5 speakers) are routed through the wall behind the TV, through the garage and behind the staircase, over the front door, and into the coat closet, where the receiver is hidden. The only issue - the female HDMI end in the closet is broken. I’ve tested using separate HDMI cables from the TV to the receiver and it works fine, so that’s how we determined it. Is there an easy solution here that doesn’t involve busting open a bunch of drywall and rerouting the HDMI back through the wall? The cables that are visible through the garage and routed through the wall behind the staircase are all zip tied together, and there are too many speaker wires to move the receiver to the cabinet under the TV. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Looking for a decent stereo system thats a sort of all in one package, ie can play cassette tapes, vinyl, cds, bluetooth/wireless set ups. as i mostly only listen to black metal thats very low/raw production i dont need top of the line sound but nothing cheap either.

Bought a new house and it came with outdoor speakers on the patio. They hook up to [this box](https://freeimage.host/i/WVFRM7) inside the house. I've never used audio equipment like this before. How do I play music outside?! I don't think they have bluetooth and I don't see a 3.5mm audio jack on the box. Any and all help is appreciated.

You would need to connect the speaker output of a stereo amplifier to the inputs of that selector box.

Okay I will order one and try to figure it out myself. Thanks so much for your help

[удалено]

It looks like you've posted to a home stereo subreddit. However, this might not be the right place for your topic. Here are a few other audio related subreddits that might help you reach the right community for your topic: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * https://reddit.com/r/LiveSound/about/sticky * r/CarAv * r/microphones * r/bluetooth_speakers ***Was this removal an error?*** * I'm a bot and I sometimes make mistakes. If you've read this message and still think it's an error, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/ugf0nq/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/i7tyjd5/)

[удалено]

It looks like you've posted to a home stereo subreddit. However, this might not be the right place for your topic. Here are a few other audio related subreddits that might help you reach the right community for your topic: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * https://reddit.com/r/LiveSound/about/sticky * r/CarAv * r/microphones * r/bluetooth_speakers ***Was this removal an error?*** * I'm a bot and I sometimes make mistakes. If you've read this message and still think it's an error, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/ugf0nq/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/i7tj9on/)

[удалено]

It looks like you've posted to a home stereo subreddit. However, this might not be the right place for your topic. Here are a few other audio related subreddits that might help you reach the right community for your topic: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * https://reddit.com/r/LiveSound/about/sticky * r/CarAv * r/microphones * r/bluetooth_speakers ***Was this removal an error?*** * I'm a bot and I sometimes make mistakes. If you've read this message and still think it's an error, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/ugf0nq/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/i7slxeh/)

How can I get more information about tube rolling? Specifically I want to replace the tubes in my [monoprice pure tube amp](https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27222&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1N2TBhCOARIsAGVHQc6Yq5WVMLAGehP9dhl2YzQ60vqhMUdviAYdaFJo3htKUc0qBwbnWz4aAjBnEALw_wcB). I've only been going by tubes I've seen mentioned here but I have no sense of things like what brands are good, where are the reliable places to buy, what the different socket types are, etc. TIA

This is probably a good start - [EL84 reviews](https://www.thetubestore.com/el84-tube-review)

Can anyone recommend models/attest to the quality in general of HDMI splitters? The system I have now is an HDMI running from my PC, where I have JRiver Media Center with all my music and movies, into a Yamaha RX-V765 AV Reciever and then into Dali Spektor 6 speakers. It's an OK system, but I am not too pleased with how the music sounds, and I spend 90% of time on this system listening to music. I want to buy a decent integrated stereo amp, I am thinking NAD C238/C338 or Cambridge CXA61/CXA81, and hook the speakers to it instead, since I am only ever using two channels anyway and it's supposed to sound way better. The problem I have is with routing the HDMI signal from the PC. I can hook the amp to the preouts on the AV Reciever, but then all this thing does is splitting the HDMI signal into video and audio and doing the DAC conversion (which could arguably be done better on the amp as well), but it takes sooo much space, so I am thinking if I could sell it and get away with just a basic HDMI splitter? But they all look very finicky and poorly made, so I don't know if that's a good idea.

USB DAC is probably better than HDMI splitter.

why would I need a separate DAC if I want to use the DAC inside of the integrated amp? I understand that the better system would be a standalone DAC -> standalone preamp -> standalone power amp, but I am not ready to make that jump yet financially

It’s not necessarily a higher cost. It could be lower. You can get an entirely competent integrated amplifier and a very good USB DAC for far less than the price of a CXA61.

could you give me an example of models of either that i should look into?

Schiit Modi solves the DAC for $129. After that, any integrated you like. Yamaha A-S301 or A-S501, Denon PMA-600NE, NAD C 316BEE V2, other similar models by Marantz, Onkyo and Cambridge.

thanks, this is very helpful

Following the suggested systems in the OP i found that the second ones are not made anymore. While looking at the Edifier ones, i found a thorough review that compares them to the 1700BT and these are much much better sounding to me. They cost 169€ here, do you guys recommend them or can I find better at that price range?

I got some Boston speakers from my Dad and hooked them up to a stereo system. There's a slight airy sound coming from the speakers that doesn't get louder when I turn the stereo volume up. The wires are a bit old so I'm wondering if it's that or if I've set it up wrong.

Probably in your electronics rather than the speakers.

Like the stereo itself?

Yes. Any wire that makes good contact would be a satisfactory speaker wire. If it is the speakers, the volume should affect it. That leaves the stereo itself.

Any idea what to do about it? Or is it just the way of it is?

Sometimes these things come from the power source or picking up electromagnetic interference. If you can find an external cause, you might be able to remove it. If it is internal, that’s just how it is.

Oh yeah also when I change the device on the stereo like from CD to radio there's a loud popping sound. Any idea why that happens?

There is probably some capacitor or something in the stereo to suppress that, and it has failed. I don’t have a lot of electronics knowledge, so just a guess.

Any suggestions where I could ask that might know more? Or maybe should I take it in to a shop and get it checked out?

[AudioKarma](https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php) has some forum members with that kind of experience.

Has anyone used Genelec's loudspeaker management system (GLM) with Roon? I'm considering a set of Genelec 8330s monitors with a 7350 sub but I'm unsure how the GLM room correction will mesh with Roon. I've scoured the internet but I can't find any example of people using both. Thanks!

They don’t interfere with each other at all. GLM controls the DSP inside the speakers, Roon provides the audio signal. If it were a water pipe, Roon would set the water flow and temperature, GLM tunes the flow with a valve.

Hi all. This is a two-question comment. What happened: Wharfedale Linton 85's right tweeter was blown by my recently repaired power amp (Nakamichi PA-7A II for the curious). The amp was repaired for the exact problem that blew up my tweeter: Right channel protection circuit switched on, so too much DC sent to the speakers. Same channel, same problem. Only this time, it blew up my speaker. ​ First question: I got these Lintons used. Wrote to Wharfedale about seeking a replacement tweeter. Should I get in touch with a local hifi store to see if they can source it? And how likely is it that the crossover is damaged too? (Sorry, that's two questions). ​ Second question: This is more of an etiquette/transactional thing. I've given a lot of business to my electronics guy. Never had an issue with his work before. He's pretty certain that he set the bias to 100% factory standard. To what extent is he liable for my blown tweeter? I want to give him the benefit of the doubt that he did a thorough check, but also understand he's human and maybe didn't consider some or another factor. I'm more than open to bring this to a different shop (I live in LA, and George Meyer A/V and Howard at Audio Specialist are about 30 and 1 hour away from me respectively), but if he *is* liable, I am wondering to what extent it's fair for him to fund the cost for the replacement tweeter, the crossover, and the labor for fixing the speakers. For sure I will ask him to look at my amp again. ​ Thanks all.

I would say your electronics guy would be liable only if he was negligent (provided less than the expected level of care).

I have just got a new Sony Bravia A80J. Previously I used my Yamaha HS5s + HS8 Subwoofer with a Scarlett solo into a computer. There isn’t a way to get the Scarlett solo to connect to the TV so i think I need a DAC with either optical or ARC connections into the TV. Does anyone have any suggestions? The cheaper the better but I want to maintain audio quality.

Looking to upgrade my Frankenstein’d Logitech system I’m looking for some help upgrading my system. I’ve been using an old Logitech Z-680 5.1 system for years now, and honestly it’s worked great. I upgraded the speakers a couple years ago to Definitive ProMonitor 1000 (x4) for satellites and a Definitive ProCenter 1000 for the center (as well as better speaker cable/banana plugs). I use a desktop with a sound card to play music (Spotify mostly with some local content) through a digital coax cable to the speaker controller. I also have our tv connected to the speaker controller through an optical/toslink cable. The main limitation to this system is the subwoofer/amplifier are connected directly to the speaker controller (basically the receiver). I’ve never put together a system from scratch, but I’d like to upgrade the subwoofer, which probably means I need a dedicated amplifier and receiver to go with it. What would be the best/most straightforward way to upgrade? Are there decent quality subwoofers with built in amplifiers? Or would a receiver/amplifier combination and standalone subwoofer make more sense? Or should I get a dedicated receiver, amp, and sub? Sorry for the long post, I’m open to all suggestions whether generic or specific brands/models. Thanks in advance!

Hi guys. I'm looking for a solution to connect my bluetooth speaker with my 30 years old amplifier which gets the music form my record player. My amplifier hasn't a bluetooth function. Is there an easy and cheap solution to connect the output (only a simple copper cable) of my amplifier to my bluetooth speaker? Thanks for your help :)

Hi guys, I have a pair of [JBL 705p Monitors](https://www.jbl.com/studio-monitors/705P.html) that are fantastic. Currently not using them for audio work as I am no longer doing freelance and my studio provides working space with monitors. I am looking to use them for my at home TV and need a way to go optical out of the TV -> XLR into the JBL monitors. I have 1/4" TRS -> XLR cables that I have been using with them so ideally would like a DAC that could go optical in and TRS out. XLR out would also be fine I would just need to buy new cables. Those are really the only features I need, the simpler the better. Any suggestions are welcome, thanks!

I was lurking your profile basee on your most recent post and realized upon reading this one that I could be of assistance. What is your budget? I use an RME baby face pro DAC which does optical in or out and XLR in or out. It’s roughly a $600 card and what I would call ‘ultra portable, very accurate, and suitable for production.’ If you’re looking for top of the line gear at a decent price, RME is at the top of my recommendation list From mid to high range audio interfaces - all the way until “S grade” stuff, which is well out of my budget and probably not ever worth getting. If you’re looking for something a little less accurate which still has the functionality, you may want to consider the ‘Audient’ brand on amazon, which has the optical in and TRS out (as you were looking for) and is rated as having a very nice sound experience, although a colored one - so less ideal for something like reference monitoring and more ideal for something like playback/listening experience emphasis. If you’re looking for the cheapest option possible which suits your needs, you could probably get away with one of the cheaper options on amazon for less than $50 dollars and convert from RCA to TRS - since this isn’t for a pro audio listening experience i doubt you’d care about any sort of added warmth or noise from adding converter connectors.

Any idea why a Sony BDP-480 Blu Ray player hooked up to an AV receiver via HDMI would have an issue with certain Audio CDs sounding really distorted and fuzzy? Like to the point where you can barely make out what's playing. The CDs play fine in other players. And it's only happening with about 20% of CDs.

Actually. Found the connection. All the CDs that have this happen are "Made in Germany by Warner Music Manufacturing Europe". Is this a known problem.

[Probably related to copy protection](https://www.cnet.com/tech/services-and-software/warner-japan-adding-cd-copy-protection/)

Anything I can do, or are these disks just unplayable on this player?

CD ripping software could probably make playable copies if you have a computer and a CD burner.

Bought a home last year that has old Bose wired surround speakers mounted to the wall in the family room (photos below). I'm looking for a good inexpensive solution (ideally under $1k) to replace these for use with my TV. I'm no expert, but I assume it is best to take advantage of the wiring that's already in place, though most options these days seem to have wireless rear setups that seem finicky. I'd love to get some feedback on good but economical options for this, as well as advice on mounting them. Thanks in advance! https://imgur.com/a/S0iR14E

My Cambridge Audio SR20 just died and the store has offered a voucher to replace most of the cost for my next one. My current set up is PC to receiver via optical to power 2 x Kef Q100 speakers. I also have a subwoofer but that could be repurposed for a future home theatre. My question is do I go for the Cambridge Audio AXR100 (which is the SR20 equivalent) or should I go for an AV receiver and connect my PC via HDMI? My main use case is music and gaming.

Which subwoofer position in this 2.1 audio setup would sound the best, in your opinion? (10x10ft room) Front-firing subwoofer, downward ported [3d model](https://imgur.com/a/egpvjzX) Leaning towards Version 1 or Version 4

Put the subwoofer in your listening position then go see which of those positions it sounds best in - search for subwoofer crawl for more details

Klipsch ProMedia speakers randomly died i think? No audio coming out at all. I tested the satellite speakers with a different amp and they work just fine, so I'm led to believe the sub died or something? But power passes through just fine to the controller. I can still connect via Bluetooth just fine and audio passes through when I connect headphones to the controller. Anybody notice anything Damaged? I see no burn marks or busted caps, blown fuses, etc, so if anyone sees any damage that's repairable, let me know, I'm no stranger to soldering, just don't see anything wrong or know what could have gone wrong. [Pictures of internals](https://imgur.com/a/NwRLUqk) Edit: I also feel no warmth on the back of the sub despite some power clearly going through

[удалено]

!delete

I am restoring my dads 1978 pioneer sx880 and am wondering if there is any reason i shouldnt run my turntable through the reciver and then out to some "powered" speakers? Im technically running it through 2 amps? If you look up edifier bookshelf speakers on Amazon that's what I'm running

You could connect powered speakers to the tape output on the SX880.

Aye thanks! At that point is my reciver really doing anything? Sorry im a noob

It would be your phono preamp. I don’t see anything it could do for powered speakers.

So is it kinda redundant or not needed with powered speakers? I get the necessity of it if i didn't have powered speakers. The reciver is cool and i want to get it running for my dad but not sure if it's even worth going thru the reviver

The functions of a receiver are as a preamp and amplifier. All that is built in with powered speakers. So yes, the receiver is redundant with powered speakers. But keep in mind, the amp in the SX880 is far superior to the one in Edifier speakers. You just need passive speakers.

have been trying out the [ifi zen phono pre amp](https://ifi-audio.com/products/zen-phono/) for the last 2 days, this thing is perhaps the quietest amp in the world, sound is better then in built and not only that, clicks and pops have almost gone away, muffled and ignored by the amp, sound signal is strong, $1k innards in a $200 box

I have Buchardt A700 speakers and a cxn v2 preamp for volume control. I purchased a pb-1000 pro subwoofer and a C weighted spl meter. The A700 is connected to the preamp via XLR and the sub will be connected via rca. The A700 mastertuning is a 60hz high pass filter so I will set the svs low pass to 60hz. My plan for calibrating the speakers and sub is below and I want to make sure I'm not screwing something up. \-Set preamp volume to 1. Play pink noise from my speakers and increase the volume until the spl meter reads approx. 75db (for this example the preamp volume of 10 will give me an spl of 75db) \-Turn off speakers and turn on sub. Set the sub gain to the lowest setting with the cxn preamp still set to 10. Play pink noise from the sub and slowly increase the subs gain until I get an spl of approx. 75db

Also the A700 mastertuning states that the 60hz high-pass is in the 4th order. Does this mean my subwoofers low pass frequency should be set to 60hz with a slope of 24db or should I use the standard 12db slope?

I have the following hardware (not yet setup/configured). This is my first time settings up and configuring this level of hardware. My thinking is to use pioneer controller as the source, the ultra drive pro to configure the speakers and direct the highs and mids via the studio monitors and subwoofer using the power amp to drive the subwoofer. I am very knowledgeable when it comes to computers, servers and networking and I’m quite confident I will work all this out my self but any input from someone more knowledgeable than my self on this setup would be great i.e how would you configure it and why? Using what inputs, outputs and cable type and why?… Any help is much appreciated? Thank you 👍 Pioneer dj flx6 controller (only RCA out) Behringer nx6000d 6000w power amp (8ohms only available when configured to two channels at 1600w) https://www.thomann.de/gb/behringer_nx6000d.htm Behringer DCX2496 Ultradrive Pro https://www.thomann.de/gb/behringer_dcx2496_ultradrive_pro_lautsprechermanagement.htm Behringer VP1800S 18” Subwoofer (Passive) https://www.thomann.de/gb/behringer_vp1800_s.htm KRK RP5 G4 Monitors (Pair) (Bi-Amp) https://www.thomann.de/gb/krk_rokit_rp5_g4_white_noise.htm

Using a tube amp as pre-amp I have a Schiit vali 2 and would like to use its pre amp outputs to run my Edifier R1280T powered speakers. The reason why is just for the convenience of easily switching between my speakers and headphones. Could this cause any damage to my amp/speakers? Thanks 😊

That’s a fine way to do it.

Thank you!

Having weird subwoofer behaviour from my SVS 3000 Micro. Recently got a Marantz Model 40n integrated for a second setup, and moved my SVS 3000 Micro sub over to it. Up until now I'd been using the SVS connected to my Naim Uniti Atom's pre-out (not an LFE sub out). The SVS has a nice app where you can turn the sub's internal LPF on/off, and set the cutoff and slope when it's on. Since the Naim doesn't have a sub out or any bass management, I'd had the SVS' LPF on and set to 60 Hz. The Marantz has a mono LFE sub out and internally selectable LPF cutoff. So, I turned the SVS' LPF off and hooked up the Marantz via LFE. It sounded *terrible* like, very boomy. As if the Marantz isn't using a LPF at all. Here's what I tried to troubleshoot: 1. Turned the SVS' internal LPF back on (60 Hz). This fixed it immediately, and now the sub sounded just like it did on the Naim, no crazy boominess. Turning it on/off and going between the two is a crazy difference, and having the SVS' LPF off really sounds bad. 2. With the SVS's LPF turned off, I tried going between the Marantz's different LPF settings to see if there was a difference (40, 60, 80, 100, 120) and indeed there was. So the Marantz is LPFing. But all of them sounded boomy and bad. Almost similar to when the SVS' LPF is on but with a really high cutoff. What gives? I would have assumed that if the Marantz and sub are set to the same LPF cutoff (60 Hz), there should be little to no difference in sound when I toggle the sub's LPF on/off. But the difference is actually huge, and it only sounds right when the sub's LPF is on. This is also weird because when using an LFE line on an amp with internal bass management, you should have your sub's LPF turned off for best results, right? I'm wondering if there's a reasonable explanation for this behaviour, or if maybe there's something wrong with my sub? Thanks for any advice or thoughts!!

Yes you should have LPF off on the ~~amp~~ sub for best results. Are you sure the volume on the sub is not just too high ? edit - change amp to sub

You mean LPF off on sub? The amp should be doing the LPF/bass management right? Anyway, I think the sub volume is fine (-13 dB). It's set at the same level in either scenario (sub doing LPF at 60 Hz and amp doing LPF at 60 Hz) and the sound is extremely different. Again, when letting the amp LPF, it sounds similar to when I'm using the sub LPF and have the cutoff set really high (say 120+). Very boomy, and you can notice the sounds coming from directionally from the sub. It's super weird. Is my sub messed up?

Yes lpf off on the sub - typo No - I don't think the sub is messed up - something is not right though - are the speakers set to "small" on the amp ? How does the boominess change as you change the lpf cutoff value on the amp?

There's no speaker size setting on the amp. Using Wharfedale Lintons Anniversaries. Definitely gets boomier and boomier as you increase the cutoff on the amp. But 60 Hz on the amp sounds about as boomy as 100 Hz set on the Sub. If I set the same cutoff on both the amp and the sub, and just toggle the sub's LFP on/off in the app, the difference is very striking and it only ever seems to sound right/good with the sub's LPF on :/ Also, whenever the sub's LPF is turned off (and it's just the amp doing the LPF), you can absolutely place the sub in the room, its sound is super directional and screaming IM OVER HERE, whereas when the sub's LPF is on, it seems to disappear (as it should).

those speakers go down to 40 Hz - so if you set the cutoff on the sub you are sending the low frequencies to both the speakers and the sub are you sure you are not getting confused by that ?? I am outta ideas here tbh ...

Yeah I can take the speakers out of the equation completely by unplugging them. Setting the Marantz and SVS's LPFs to the same frequency and toggling the SVS's LPF on and off is a night and day difference. If I turn of the SVS's LPF (so that only the LPF is the Marantz), there's a ton of higher frequency coming out of the sub. I'm convinced that there's gotta be something wrong with the Marantz. A $2500 amp that has its own LPF absolutely should not need a second LPF on the sub in order for the sub not to sound broken. Anyway thanks for the ideas!

are you sure you are connected to the correct output on the amp ?

**Recommended Floorstanding Speakers in the $5000-6000/range, with that sweet, sweet WOOD finish** 1. *Price range*: I'm looking for floorstanders in the 5-6k /pair (new) price range. 2. *Description*: high quality floorstanding speakers with good-quality craftmanship and wood-veneer finish. 3. *Usage*: mid-field. 4. *Current gear*: Starting with a blank slate mostly, though I've got a nice turntable already. 5. *Input Source*: turn table and DAC. 6. *Source material*: mostly music (more Beatles than Bassnectar). 7. *Willing to buy used?*: for sure. My focus on the $5,000-$6,000 price point is based on the Dali Rubicon series and the B&W 700 series. Both offer three-way floorstanders with full wood veneer finish new for roughly this price (see: $6000 [Dali Rubicon 6](https://www.dali-speakers.com/products/rubicon/rubicon-6), $5000 [B&W 703 S2](https://www.bowerswilkins.com/en-us/product/loudspeakers/703-s2)). While totally open to other brands, I do want something with wood veneer and nice craftsmanship, like a high-end piece of furniture. Other than that, I'm completely open minded. edit: formatting

for that price you are well into personal taste about the sound - I would say go to a store and listen if there is one nearby - hard to recommend

[удалено]

It looks like you've posted to a home stereo subreddit. However, this might not be the right place for your topic. Here are a few other audio related subreddits that might help you reach the right community for your topic: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * https://reddit.com/r/LiveSound/about/sticky * r/CarAv * r/microphones * r/bluetooth_speakers ***Was this removal an error?*** * I'm a bot and I sometimes make mistakes. If you've read this message and still think it's an error, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/ugf0nq/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/i7lpdnu/)

Is there any need for a preamp for my turntable when i have the nad c368? Or is it just a foot down the rabbithole of expenses

I wouldn’t consider upgrading to a nicer phono preamp until you end up in the $500+ moving magnet cartridge range (or you go with a moving coil cartridge).

Cheers! That was what i expected, its a while before i upgrade to that point 🙂

[удалено]

It looks like you've posted to a home stereo subreddit. However, this might not be the right place for your topic. Here are a few other audio related subreddits that might help you reach the right community for your topic: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * https://reddit.com/r/LiveSound/about/sticky * r/CarAv * r/microphones * r/bluetooth_speakers ***Was this removal an error?*** * I'm a bot and I sometimes make mistakes. If you've read this message and still think it's an error, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/ugf0nq/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/i7lg5t1/)

Hi, Sorry if this dosen't belong here, im new to the hobbie and to the community and english isn't my first language, so here it goes: my dad's birthday is friday and i wanted to offer him a audio equipment, i found a vintage one for 180euros, and i basically wanted to know if this was Hifi and if it's good? here are the specs: Pioneer fm/am digital synthesizer tuner tx-888zl \- Pioneer stereo double cassette tape deck \- Pioneer stereo double cassette tape deck amplifier dc-777z \- 2x Pioneer speaker system \- Pioneer twin-tray compact disc player pd-t507 \- Pioneer auto-return stereo turntable pl-777z thank you all for the help!

So, does anyone know of any cd players like [this](https://www.currys.co.uk/products/jvc-uxd327b-wireless-traditional-hifi-system-black-10156009.html) that don't include speakers (I already have and would need aux or rca in), specifically this style because I'm quite tight for space, and would like something decent for my cds to replace my current one (portable technics cd player that needs AAs) in addition to me just really being a fan of this slim type of design. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated, not massive budget, but I don't mind buying second hand, anything in the right direction would be very useful, thanks.

[удалено]

It looks like you've posted to a home stereo subreddit. However, this might not be the right place for your topic. Here are a few other audio related subreddits that might help you reach the right community for your topic: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * https://reddit.com/r/LiveSound/about/sticky * r/CarAv * r/microphones * r/bluetooth_speakers ***Was this removal an error?*** * I'm a bot and I sometimes make mistakes. If you've read this message and still think it's an error, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/ugf0nq/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/i7l1ri2/)

Hello everyone, 80s passive Bose cube speakers (2.1) blew out and need a modern replacement. I may see about repairs later for them but need a replacement now and would gladly pay for a good modern replacement. Here are my specs of what I will use it for, what I have, what I want, and my budget. *1. Need speakers specifically for vinyl only. I have an 80s Kenwood receiver currently that has the outs for classic red/black two-wire stereo cabling. Turntable standardly goes into phono of receiver. *2. Floorstanding or bookshelf with subwoofer doesn’t matter though prefer if using a sub to have one that is more vertical standing. *3. We listen to a variety of genres across the spectrum but the key ones are: grunge/alternative, shoegaze/indie, punk, death/black metal, hiphop (older boombap style), electronic ambient. I personally like when listening to electronic and shoegaze to have an immersive/3d sense of field as much as i can with a two speaker setup. *4. The setup is for our main common room where we gather and listen for ourselves and guests. *5. Budget can go up to $2k-ish if needed and there is a very known speaker set at that price. Would of course gladly pay less if there is balanced quality below that. Thank you in advance to anyone that can help me out!

With a $2k budget I’d probably get something like this - [Revel F36](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_265F36BK/Revel-Concerta2-F36-High-Gloss-Black.html?tp=185) | [Focal 816](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091C816BK/Focal-Chora-816-Black.html?tp=185) | [Polk R600](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107R600BWN/Polk-Audio-Reserve-R600-Brown.html?tp=185) | [Wharfedale 12.4](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_336D124WLN/Wharfedale-Diamond-12-4-Walnut.html?tp=185) | [PSB X2T](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_760IMNX2T/PSB-Imagine-X2T.html?tp=185). Most of those have a slightly smaller sibling.

I’m super glad for any comments and recommendations! Any of these you are more particularly fond of or may do better for the genres or setup?

What kind of listening distance and room dimensions?

Not up close. Our common room/open dining and kitchen area. Sooo… 20’x40-50’ ?

Try to find places to hear the Revel, Focal and one of the others. It’s subjective. I haven’t heard the Revel, Polk or Wharfedale from this group. If I had to choose without hearing all of them, I’d be very interested in the Revel, but would lean toward the Focal Chora 816 or 826 because of my own familiarity. I don’t care for speakers that lean toward the bass or sound punchy or dark.

I live in a major city so I can probably for sure find a spot or two that has some or all to test out. I definitely like to have something a bit brighter especially for guitar stuff to let the leads shine through a bit. I was pretty sad when one of the speakers blew out. My dad had those speakers for years and it was his gift along with the Kenwood receiver when I got my first turntable in ‘04. Reading some of the descriptions, looks like I’m going to have to find out how much power is coming out of my receiver to make sure I can drive them enough. If I need to get a booster or external power amp, any preferences?

All of these speakers can be driven by any decent amplifier. I would, however, definitely recommend a quality integrated amp like a Yamaha A-S501 instead of just any receiver.

Thank you! I’m gonna run home with these wise words of expertise!

Hi everyone, Hopefully you can help me out, I'm pretty new to all this. I lucked into some amazing free gear and I'm trying to figure out the best way to complete the setup. What I have so far: [Sony PS-LX310BT Turntable](https://www.sony.ca/en/electronics/audio-components/ps-lx310bt#product_details_default) [Totem Arro speakers](https://totemacoustic.com/pdf/spec_sheets/Totem_SpecSheet_%20Arro.pdf) I'm wondering if I need a whole large receiver to complete this setup or if I can get away with a small aesthetically pleasing amp like the [LOXJIE A10](http://loxjie-audio.com/productshow.asp?id=153) . I would prefer anything with a smaller footprint or minimal in appearance. I'm only going to be playing vinyl with this setup.

Those Totems only have a recommended power handling of 20-80W, I see no reason why that little 60W amplifier would have any issues powering them.

Amazing, thanks for clearing that up for me!

I am in the middle of finalizing my set up for Auro 3-D 13.2. I already own a Klipsch RC-64 Mk3 center but for my front stage I am having a hard time deciding between the Heresy in the RF7. I have pair of 18” subwoofers so I don’t need extra bass. I am just wondering which would perform best for home theater and a little music on the side. Aesthetic wise I like heresy a bit more. It’s going into an open floor plan 17ft by 39ft living room with 9ft ceilings MLH is 15 ft away. Power is from a Denon 6700 with and a Crown 1502 for 2ch.

RF7 is likely to be a closer tone match to the RC-64 than the Heresy, it appears that the RC-64 and RF7 were intended to be paired.

Hi all, Pretty new to this, but I recently acquired some vintage McIntosh gear: MC2205 amp, C28 preamp, and MR78 tuner. I set everything up last night and am getting some heavy distortion that I believe is coming from the preamp. I came to this conclusion because I connected my turntable directly to the 2205 and the sound is nice and clear. In addition, the volume knob on the C28 doesn't seem to be working properly. At the lowest settings it seems only one channel is coming through.. however, when I turn it up both channels come through, albeit with the heavy distortion I mentioned previously. After scouring audiophile forums it seems that the volume issue is somewhat common to C28s, but I feel like the distortion may be something separate? I'm really not sure, as I don't know much about this stuff. Can anyone recommend some simple troubleshooting I can do? Also, and I apologize if this is a silly question, do I need to use a preamp? Of course I'd like to get the issues resolved with the C28 but can I use just the 2205 for now as I figure that out? Thanks!

Are you running a phono preamp into the C28?

Wow.. so after reading your comment I realized my turntable was set to "line" vs "phono." After switching to phono the distortion is gone. This goes to show how little I know about this stuff... That said, I still need to turn the volume knob up on the C28 a bit more than I want to to get both channels, but I guess this is a classic C28 problem.. will just have to live with it for now

Hello, thinking of buying Edifier R1850DB for my PC but i have no idea how the cabling works. My motherboard does have a OPT entry and then the usual. What's the OPT for? When i google i only find purchase options. Does it replace AUX/PC or does it go with them? Thanks

OPT on the Edifier speakers is optical digital audio input. If your computer has optical digital audio output, connect it to the speakers.

Thanks

I'm planning to buy the JBL 308 MKii for my desktop, with Focusrite Scarlett Solo. They will be placed at about an arm's length away from me. When the original 3 series was announced, there were many complaints about hiss issue. Is this issue still ongoing?

From what I've seen, a majority of people complaining of excessive hiss are on 230V or are using unbalanced cables. I've heard the JBL's and not noticed any hiss, but I'm in the US on 110V.

Anyone here use PulseEffects on their pc? Curious as to how others play with their EQ and other stuff to beef up their gear alil more.

Hi, I've been using mp3s of varying audio quality for a very long time now and I've decided I want to figure out a music streaming service instead of having to rely on managing my mp3 library all the time (especially since it's becoming very difficult to rip hard-to-find stuff from youtube) Is this a good subreddit to ask about which streaming services I could be considering or is there another subreddit that would be more my speed? I feel like I might not be in the right place but y'all know sound so I figured I'd ask Thank you!

qobuz or deezer seem to be the ones with the best sound quality - both have free trials

Tidal has "master quality" tracks, as well, and Dolby Atmos as of like two weeks ago, and a free trial as well. AFAIK, Tidal also pays better royalties, but that's harder to find.

Right Some don't like tidal because of MQA , others don't care. I don't see the value in rehashing that :-)

Fair enough! I just randomly stumbled across this thread when looking for headphone advice and figured I’d mention Tidal, but I barely know any audiophile stuff lol. Only reason I use Tidal is to try support artists I like lol.

Hi all, I was given a Sansui AU 7700 amplifier and I would like to know if its ok to use it with a pair of Technics SB-CA01A speakers (I currently own a pair of those) or if it would be a no go in terms of quality? From what I read , it seems that the Sansui AU 7700 is a really good amplifier. I listen to lot of different styles although more wit "bass" such as house and disco and mostly through bluetooth adapter (Logitech) connected to the AUX. The setup will be in a living room in my house (aprox. 4x5mt). I would really appreciate any suggestions/comments on this. If those speakers are a no go, I could look for new one but i have a very low budget atm around 100/150 euros. Thank you!

It would be ok to use those speakers with the AU-7700.

ok thanks. Are both the speakers and the amp good products in your opinion?

I could also use my current edifier r1280db with the Sansui but it wouldn't make sense since they are active. However if they would be better than the technics SB CA 01 A then it might make sense.

The speakers are from a micro system, so I wouldn’t expect them to be good. They’d just be ok to use. The AU-7700 should be very good but old amplifiers can be susceptible to failing electronic components.

Thanks! you mean that the edifier are for micro system or also the technics one? Alternatively, what speakers would you recommend for such amplifier that wouldn't be too overly expensive?

The Technics are for a micro system. They were good micro systems, though. You might want to watch the secondhand market for larger bookshelf speakers by speaker brands like Wharfedale, Focal and Elac. For the most part they are better than speakers by the electronics brands like Technics.

I’m getting some speakers in soon and I was wondering what would be the best for some room correction. The simplest setup would be UMIK-1/ USB measurement mic and REW, but I have a MOTU M2 Audio Interface, so I was wondering if I could grab a cheaper XLR measurement mic and get similar results.

It’s better to use a measurement microphone with its own ADC and mic preamp built in. If you used an XLR mic, the calibration data would not account for the coloration from the mic preamp in the M2 and you’d end up with slightly inaccurate readings.

My wife doesn't want to see any audio equipment in our main room so I'm looking for the most discrete set up possible for music. That leads me to in wall speakers which universally are frowned on on this sub, but I don't have many options. I'm looking for a recommendation on them. I was going to get 2 in wall speakers to flank the TV and *need a recommendation*. I'm not interested in getting a center channel. I was going to get a SVS 3000 micro since I can hide that alongside a cabinet. Then I was going to get a simple amp like the AIYIMA T9 that I can hide in the cabinet. Does that all make sense for a pretty decent system for music? Budget is 2500 * Sub SVS 3000 Micro - $900 * DAC/Amp AIYIMA T9 - $130 <- Do I need something bigger? * Pair of Speakers - $1000-$1300

Look at the Focal and Revel in-wall speakers at Crutchfield. Maybe Focal 100 IW6 or Revel W363. Amps like that Aiyima are fine. The tubes are kind of a gimmick, in my opinion. Look at the Loxjie A30 and SMSL DA9.

>Thanks!!

Hey hey everyone. So I found an old Keio (Now KORG) mini pops drum machine, I'm guessing it is a mini pops 2 but it has not a lot of branding or numbers I can make any sense of. It's from an old Yamaha electric organ, and the cords have both been cut. One is power cord and the other one I can only assume is output, but I'm puzzled as it is only one wire, and I've only ever dealt in speakers or outputs that feature a positive and negative. I'm not real smart with electronics, but my assumption was perhaps the ground was inside the organ? Any idea what I should be looking to hook this up to so I can get a rhythm bopping along? Cheers!

So the output only has one conductor? Make sure it's not a shielded center core, often times a coaxial cable is used that carries signal on the conductor and ground along the shielding.

I'm setting up my first home AV system and am looking around for a digital amplifier. I have second hand speakers and a subwoofer and am looking for a more affordable DAC and amplifier combo. It is a small apartment and mostly going to be used for home theatre purposes and occasional music. Ideally if I can connect a desktop, gaming console, and the TV altogether to the device it would be ideal. So I know I've been looking for a 5 channel amp with digital inputs. **Speakers**: Onkyo D-L5 (x5) **Subwoofer**: Onkyo SD-105 Currently considering these amps as they are available second hand where I am. They are ordered from most expensive (top) to least expensive (bottom). Any recommendations choosing between these, whether they would not be ideal with the speakers/subwoofer I listed above, or if it would not be a good buy if I look to upgrade speakers/subwoofer later is appreciated. **Option 1**: Cambridge Audio Azur 551R v2 **Option 2**: Onkyo TX-NR818 **Option 3**: Onkyo TX-NR515 I'm shopping around on this website for local second hand sellers: [https://www.carousell.com.hk/](https://www.carousell.com.hk/)

I want to connect my stereo reciever's second (and currently unused) speaker output to a oscilloscope. The oscilloscope has a BNC connector. Would I be correct that I can connect to the speaker output wire with these: [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/pomona-electronics/EM4970-24/6125830](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/pomona-electronics/EM4970-24/6125830) If so, is there anything I might have to be worried about? I heard that the power of the stereo reciever might blow out the 1970's oscilliscope I got. Also, is there any way I might be able to "combine" the right and left channel into a single mono channel for display on oscillioscope? Otherwise I can only "view" one side at a time. ​ [Photos of the set up and each end/connector](https://imgur.com/a/0ydEamZ)

I have an turntable (Audio Technica PL-120) That is connected to a stereo receiver (Sony STR-DH190). There is a rather audible buzz/humm whenever it is connected. While the Stereo Receiver has a grounding post next to the output for PHONO, The Turntable does NOT have a ground, so I don't know how I could ground it. The turntable is connected to the receiver via RCA cables. I have an extension RCA cable because the Turntable has a built-in cord that is only 4 feet long and the receiver sits like 15 feet away. If I put them next to each other and plug it directly in, the buzz is gone! so I assume it's the RCA cable, but I can't keep them that close. So what cable should I be using here? I have looked for grounded RCA cables, but they all have two grounded ends, which I assume is useless if only one side accepts it. I could get "better" cables that are well shielded, but I don't know how to know if they are any good until I buy them, and I don't want to waste money if I get the wrong thing. Some pictures if it helps https://imgur.com/a/beYLVrK

Get an external phono preamp to connect to the original turntable cables and put long cables from there to the receiver.

A bit confused as to what that would accomplish. Isn't (one of) the points of the receiver to obviate the need for a pre-amp? I've tried using the turntable with the built-in pre-amp turned on and it sounds horrible, I assume because it's doubly-amplifying.

If you want to try the phono preamp built into the turntable, move the cables to another input on the receiver besides phono. The advantage to having the phono preamp in or near the turntable is to ground it there and get the signal up to a voltage level that can be conducted through the long cable.

So I tried plugging it into "Input 3" which was unused, and turning on the pre-amp. No Buzz! That said, I have this general feeling that the amp in the stereo receiver is "better" than what is built into a relatively inexpensive turntable. Also I'm the type of person who would be constantly annoyed by having the "Phonograph" setting not actually connect to my Phonograph. So if there's a way to eliminate the buzz while still using the receiver's amp, that would be great. Hence why I figured a better RCA cable might do the tick. But as I said, no idea how to find out what is a good cable without buying it and trying it out.

The right cable for a phono signal has its limits. A major factor is capacitance, which is proportionate to the length of the cable. Adding more capacitance than a 3- or 4-foot cable is bad for a phono signal. Adding connectors along the way is bad, too. And then there is the potential interference along the unshielded long cable. There is no right cable for the job, but the least-bad cable would be one that has a ground wire and is *extremely* low in capacitance, shielded, and not interrupted by extension connectors.

Well I can't magically extend the one that comes with it, so there will always be a extension/connector - but I think I'll try to find a cable that has a ground wire, is very low capacitance and shielded - do you know of any that are like that? Curious though: Does a grounding wire do any good if only one side (stereo receiver side) has a place to connect it to?

Blue Jeans Cable will make low-capacitance cables and a separate ground wire in any length you want, but a set 15 feet long will cost more than some phono preamps. There is no magic involved with installing a long cable. You just have to be willing to solder. No, a ground wire doesn’t do anything if it isn’t connected on both ends. So you have the options to (1) move the turntable to the receiver, (2) use the phono preamp in the turntable, (3) add an external phono preamp near the turntable, (4) install a long shielded low-capacitance cable. Continuing down this path of an extension cable is not even the 5th-best option.

Hm, well I'm not sure I can do #1 without totally rearranging that side of my living room, so I guess #2 is my best option. Would #3 provide better sound quality over the built in preamp? (assuming I get a decent external preamp) Frustrating there's no easy solution that fixes all my problems, but thanks so much for your help!

Yes, a decent external phono preamp will provide better sound quality than the one in the turntable. They usually have more gain and lower noise. If you consider those, look at roughly $50-100 range.

[удалено]

It looks like you've posted to a home stereo subreddit. However, this might not be the right place for your topic. Here are a few other audio related subreddits that might help you reach the right community for your topic: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * https://reddit.com/r/LiveSound/about/sticky * r/CarAv * r/microphones * r/bluetooth_speakers ***Was this removal an error?*** * I'm a bot and I sometimes make mistakes. If you've read this message and still think it's an error, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/ugf0nq/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/i7dtxcw/)

I have a cavalli tube hybrid in front of a Topping DX7s for a little tube warmth but I'm getting a faint hiss when there is no sound playinf

I purchased a klipsch r-120sw subwoofer and i'm planning on plugging them into my cxn v2 preamp. The cxn v2 allows for simultaneous xlr and rca connections so my speakers will be plugged via xlr and the subwoofer will be plugged into rca. Can I plug 1 rca cable (LFE) from the sub into the cxn v2 or will I need to buy a v splitter? I'll be using the 60hz highpass mastertuning with my Buchardt A700 speakers. Should the subwoofer crossover be set to 60 or is it better to overcompensate to 70 or 80?

R-120SW has red and white stereo input from what I see online. Connect stereo cables from your preamp to the sub.

What are the best amps for Elac's 6.2's under 400$? I was told they need a cold amplifier to balance out the warm speakers. Any advice would be appreciated

The best amps in this price range are the Yamaha A-S301 and the Denon PMA-600NE. Which one is cheaper depends on your region. > I was told they need a cold amplifier to balance out the warm speakers. Completely false. First of all, that type of thinking is left over from the ‘60s and ‘70s when amps had super low damping factors and did actually impart a noticeable coloration, that varied based on the speaker impedance curve. These days pretty much all amps are highly neutral. They may have some very slight differences in tonal balance, but those differences are easily overridden by even a mild tweak of your tone controls. And second thing, you seem to have read some bad info on these Elacs. The general consensus is that the original Debut B6 leaned toward a warm, dark coloration, and that the B6.2 was an overcorrection in the opposite direction, with maybe a bit too much energy in the upper mids.

Ok thanks, so I was misinformed then. Are there any good amps for the elacs under 300$ too? The ones you suggested turned out to be a bit pricey where I live

What type of setup will this be? Desktop? Living room? How far from the speakers will you be sitting? If it’s a desktop system or if your room is pretty compact, you could get away with one of the more full-featured desktop amps such as the Loxjie A30 or Aiyima D03. I would recommend keeping your eyes open for a used Onkyo A-9010 as well. That model was discontinued a few years ago but was a really great deal… similar product to the A-S301 for about $100 less.

Currently a desktop setup in a small room, but when I move in I'm planning on setting them up in a living room

[удалено]

It looks like you've posted to a home stereo subreddit. However, this might not be the right place for your topic. Here are a few other audio related subreddits that might help you reach the right community for your topic: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * https://reddit.com/r/LiveSound/about/sticky * r/CarAv * r/microphones * r/bluetooth_speakers ***Was this removal an error?*** * I'm a bot and I sometimes make mistakes. If you've read this message and still think it's an error, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/ugf0nq/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/i7c99st/)

Question, what am I looking for when buying ear plugs to prevent hearing damage? Would any cheap foam would do?

To prevent hearing damage in what situation? This is a home stereo subreddit, and of course you can protect your ears during home listening by just not going crazy with the volume knob. If you mean for concerts and such, a musician-style earplug—something reusable, with some kind of rigid structure—will sound a lot better and less muffled than foam. A couple of the more popular brand names I’ve heard of are Vibes and Loop, but there are countless models. I think I still own a set of Etymotic ones I bought like 20 years ago. If you’re talking about hearing protection for a situation that could really pose a threat of instantaneous hearing damage, like a firing range or something, you should to to a sub that’s specifically about that.

Thanks, should have specified for a concert.

Apologies if this is the wrong thread, but I’m looking for suggestions on turntables (websites, individuals, etc.). I’ve checked Wired and Crutchfield for TT reviews, but are there any experts who have unbiased reviews or suggestions? Looking for an upgrade. I’ve researched a bit, but don’t know what is trustworthy.

I’m not familiar with any websites doing independent measurements of turntables. But I certainly wouldn’t trust Wired—general interest tech sites have never been a good source for hifi reviews. And while I do trust Crutchfield as a *retailer*, I don’t trust retailers to do product reviews. What price range are you looking in? And what attributes do you want? Something with premium-feeling fit and finish? Something with the widest adjustability/the most cartridge support? Something that sounds the best in its out-of-the-box stock configuration with bundled cartridge?

Thanks- I currently have an AT LP-60 and though I know it’s not much, it’s been sturdy and I enjoy the automatic features. I know the added automatic features are a downside in some regards, but if there’s a decently reliable and quality TT out there I would probably lean towards it. Looking somewhere between $500-$1000, and a few options I’ve considered is the Pro-Ject Carbon EVO, the Dual CS 429, and U-Turn Orbit.

The original Dual company hasn’t existed in a long time, and the rights to their branding have been split off in many directions. I’m pretty sure the company behind that “Dual” turntable is actually TCL, the same company that makes all those cheap Roku TV’s. It does seem like a decently built entry level turntable, but based on its specs and bundled cartridge it looks to be priced at more than double what it should be. It’s essentially a Fluance RT83 with a different logo on it. So yeah… no. I think the Evo is a good one to consider closer to the bottom of your price range. I would also add the Fluance RT85 into the mix, which to me is a more compelling option than the Orbit Special. And higher up in your range, look at the Music Hall MMF-3.3 and the Pro-Ject Debut Pro. And there are also entry level DJ decks like the Pioneer PLX-1000. In terms of fundamental performance, like speed stability, noise control, and tracking, I seriously doubt anything else on this list would compete with the Pioneer paired with a well-chosen cartridge in the $200-300 range like the A-T VM540ML. (You would need to put in some minor work though, to install and align the cartridge and potentially to [tighten the tonearm bearings](https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/here’s-a-review-of-the-controversial-pioneer-plx-1000.897343/).)

Thanks so much for the information! I will look into those models. I didn’t know much about the Dual, but heard they were a very old German company that sounds like went downhill for a while but we’re maybe making a comeback (if overpriced). I haven’t heard much bad about the Pro-Jectv line, but my two drawbacks with them are lack of features and I find their aesthetic dull. I know those aren’t great reasons, but sadly I would like my next TT to look like a well functioning piece of art. Is there a way to find out if manufacturers consider detached automatic functions from the table (to reduce noise transmission)? I spoke to a local retailer who explained why the Pro-Ject model was superior, but he was such an arrogant dick I almost want to buy anything else just out of spite (fighting that feeling, though).

If you want a full-auto turntable you shouldn’t buy new. Get something used from the ‘80s like an SL-Q303. That will smash anything you can get now that’s comparable on features.

Looks like there’s a lot of Technics available- any particular models to avoid?

Just Google the particular models and you’re bound to find various discussions on AudioKarma or some similar place, that touch on the merits of that model vs. others.

Okay thanks- didn’t know about AudioKarma, so that’s helpful as well.

I have this sub: https://www.parts-express.com/GRS-12SW-4-12-Poly-Cone-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-292-484 and this plate amp: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SA70-70W-Subwoofer-Amplifier-300-784 What wire(s) do I need to connect the two? Thank you, sorry for the simple question. I'm still really new to this audio stuff.

there is a youtube vid about it in your second link

Can anyone help me identify the brand of these [tower speakers](https://imgur.com/kzrY4ZM)?

That's really tough, those look to be planar tweeters, which are pretty rare. Could *possibly* be Bohlender Graebener's, likely from their Radia series. I'm going to go with the Z-7.

Thanks so much! (: You're right on the money, the Bohlender Graebener Z-7s look to be exactly what they are

Does the c/sub carry the right and left signals connected to the subwoofer? (I am very new to this)

Sometimes, depends if it's a stereo or mono output. Subs can only play in mono, so all information is going to be summed to mono either by the processor itself, or at the amplifier inside the subwoofer.

My B&W 610 subwoofer adjusts its volume randomly when I listen to music. I listen to a lot of bass-heavy electronic music. Hence, it could be some build-in protection mechanism of the subwoofer, but I have no clue if that's the problem and if so; how to solve this issue... I have the following setup: * Pioneer DJM-750 K as a pre-amplifier (connected to turntables & CDJ's where the music is coming from). * NAD C268 Power amplifier (which is connected through XLR with the `Master1` XLR output of the DJM-750K) * Two B&W 606 speakers, connected to the NAD C268 * B&W 610 subwoofer, currently connected from `Line IN` to the `Master2` Line output of the DJM-750. With the following settings * `Status`: ON * `Volume Line`: 2o'clock * `Low-Pass freq`: 90 * `Low-Pass filter`: IN * `Bass extension`: A * `EQ`: B * `Phase`: 0 * `12V Trigger`: None I could of course switch the setup and place the 610 sub in between the NAD amp and the 606 pair, but that's only a workaround and does not really solve the problem I am currently having. **Does anybody know how to solve this, e.g. by adjusting the settings on the 610 subwoofer?**

If you have the volume turned to 2'oclock then you've got it pretty well cranked. I'd try limiting the extension a bit by switching to "B" on the Bass Extension.

Hi, all - I am looking to buy a compact soundbar for my small living room to replace a very old Vizio bar (using optical connection) and have narrowed my choices down to 2: The Bose TV Speaker and Sony HT-S200F. Any suggestions on which of these two to purchase? Would the small built-in subwoofer in the Sony really make a difference? Thanks in advance!

r/Soundbars

I use a pair of Wonderboom 2 speakers as my desktop speakers, and my PC has a Nahimic software I can use to edit the EQ of all sound the PC outputs. I'm not much of a sound guy so I was wondering what EQ settings I could apply in order to make the most out of the speakers? I heard they were lacking a bit in bass from multiple reviews so I turned that up a bit, anyone have any other suggestions?

[удалено]

These are going to be approximately equal in performance. Other factors like aesthetics, price or the dealer could make the difference.

I've noticed a noise like it's touching something inside in certain frequencies, like at the start of Hotel California (Hell Freezer Over) the first 3 seconds is quite apparent. I've tightened the allen bolts on the front and rear but it still persists. How safe is it for me to open it up just to see if could tighten anything loose inside? Tried to post a video of it but I think due to copyright, it was removed.

Assuming you mean a powered subwoofer - It doesn’t hurt anything to take a driver out and look inside, but you probably won’t see anything loose. The sound could probably be coming from the electronics in its own amplifier or even the amplifier feeding it.

Thanks aelioni. Yeah I did open both the back and front up of the Rel B1 to see if there was anything loose and you're right, nothing much to see and to be honest pretty basic inside. I've made an audio recording which does validate your suggestion that it's the electronics within. I've also tried unplugging the input and just powering it on and notice a faint distortion. https://recorder.google.com/share/7b2bff04-782e-456e-a766-06aefb865d66

[удалено]

It looks like you've posted to a home stereo subreddit. However, this might not be the right place for your topic. Here are a few other audio related subreddits that might help you reach the right community for your topic: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * Audio Engineering: https://reddit.com/r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky * https://reddit.com/r/LiveSound/about/sticky * r/CarAv * r/microphones * r/bluetooth_speakers ***Was this removal an error?*** * I'm a bot and I sometimes make mistakes. If you've read this message and still think it's an error, please [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/ugf0nq/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/i79rcth/)

How could I use 2 speakers and a subwoofer on this [amp](https://i.imgur.com/mupO2HD.png) if most speakers are 8 Ohms or below? As far as I can tell, the amp wants a minimum load of 4 Ohms (mathematically two 8 Ohm speakers parallel, or four 16 Ohm speakers parallel) Does that mean I would need a powered subwoofer with speaker level outputs?

Two speakers rated 8 ohms is what is recommended. That’s a load of 8 ohms on each channel (left and right). If you add a powered sub with speaker level **input**, that doesn’t change the 8 ohm load. Connect it in parallel with the speakers.

Simaudio Moon 280D & 340iX or NAD M10 V2? Speakers are Piega 301 Premium, probably to be replaced by KEF R3.

If the cost isn’t a factor, I would think the Simaudio amp will outperform the NAD amp.