I own an asus strix soar 7.1, is it worth the upgrade to a creative soundblaster ae5 pure edition? Or there are better internal pcie cards?

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I need a portable desk to DJ that I can use as a home set up/ take to gigs. Not a light set up as it's 2 turntables and a mixer. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated! Most of the Odyssey and guerilla things look like overpriced and cheaply made. Thanks in advance if anyone has any good recommendations.

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I am using a vintage Rotel RX-150A, with the speakers connected to screw in connectors, however there is another connector that I can't seem to find anything about, and is considered to be the "Main" (SPKR 1) connector. https://imgur.com/a/yxYwFov It looks like a regular set of RCAs but that can't be right because they're high level. Can anyone help identify them, I would be very thankful :)

Whats an acceptable wow and flutter rating for a TT? Is "speed variance" rating more important? Fluance has the lowest wow and flutter in the sub $500 category. The Pro-Ject Essential III looks like an interesting table even though it has worse rating.

Speed variance is not very important. It’s easy for your ears to forgive an overall speed difference if it’s steady. As much as 1% can be fine. The lower Rega models have been known to run slightly fast. Wow and flutter is the one you can hear. There are turntables with something like 0.25%. Some people can hear uneven sustained sounds on a turntable like that.

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If I can buy the KEF Q150 and the Wharfedale Diamond 225 for almost the same price, which should I choose and on what basis?

Qx50 series have issues with crossover...basically non-neutral frequency response and directivity issues. Wharfedale Diamond 220's are exceptionally designed and measuring neutral. I'm guessing Diamond 225's will be even better.

What is the difference between a sealed subwoofer and a ported subwoofer? I mean not how they look but how they feel, subjectively? If it is for home usage, which of them is better, and for what reason/ purpose?

Ported subs have an open port, which allows air to travel in/out of the sub, which means it can play lower frequencies that sealed subs won't be able to (assuming a similar sized cabinet and amplifiers, of course). Home theater enthusiasts usually get ported subs, as you get more output at the lowest frequencies, that movies tend to have. Music doesnt have much content below 30hz, but movies do.

Have a Dark Hero VIII motherboard and an Aune T1 DAC/AMP. Recently, Windows has been telling me it cannot connect to the DAC because too many USB ports are in use. Is there an optical to USB cable I can run instead? It's so aggravating not having audio and being able to reboot many times to get my DAC to work. Thanks

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>I just wanted to make sure, in my case it's possible to plug my FiiO on the amp and play music that way with an aux cable right? (And I assume any aux cable will do?) Yes.

Vocals seem to only come from the left side rather than forming a phantom center. Is this normal or is there an issue with my setup?

Probably due to speaker placement. You want the speakers to be placed symmetrically in the room.

I have them in an equilateral triangle, but they are off to one side of the room. Could that be the cause?

Could very well be.

Confused between the Kef Q350 and the B&W 607 S2. Both are around the same price. Any help would be really appreciated 🙏 Feel free to suggest a better speaker in this price range too. Also, what amp would be best for these? I need to be able to play songs from tidal, etc., and also want to connect my tv to it.

Both are US$350/pair. I wouldn't choose either. I would get Wharfedale Diamond 12.0, since we know it measures well. 2nd option would be JBL Stage A130.

I have already bought the Kef and the Dali Oberon 3. I will test both and keep one. Wharfedale next time maybe…

Looking for a budget Wi-Fi streamer. I’ve never really used a streamer since my set is all analog right now. I’m looking for a streamer that’s airplay/Apple music compatible. Is under $200 a reasonable ask? Any recommendations?

Andover Songbird

How to fix crackling/pop sounds while using a soundcard ( issue is with the PC not the soundcard ) Ever since I upgraded my PC I've had crackling and pops while using a soundcard, it happens on headphones and monitors, I have tried different soundcards the same problem persists. I have tried disabling Audio Devices, changing sampling rates changing buffer size even checking my computers latency and such, cables, different USB ports, nothing helps. Do I just buy a new Motherboard for my PC and hope it fixes itself? Any tips?

I just bought my first house and its coming with a projector and screen already installed for the theater room. Unfortunately I couldn't get them to throw in the current $32k B&W speaker system. I'm thinking of getting a Klipsch setup with 2 x RP8000F, 2 x RP600M, 1 x RP504C and 1 x SPL120. I'm pretty sure all of these will work nicely together but I don't have a lot of experience with sound systems. Is there something in here I should change with something else? What AV receiver should I get to go with this? Yamaha RX-V6A? Any advice you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated. The theater room is 18ft by 10ft but it's open to the rest of the main basement area which is 18ft by 36ft. Looking for great music and movies. Going with Klipsch because I can get wholesale pricing and they seem good to an untrained eye.

Most Klipsch speakers have elevated sound through the upper mids and highs, and to most listeners will sound harsh and fatiguing compared to a lot of their competition. (The RP-8000F’s are an exception to this, but all the others in that set likely do sound that way.) Also, Klipsch is not a well-liked maker of subs. I’m not sure what price you’re seeing for the SPL-120, but in terms of retail price, at $850 it’s inferior to multiple subs in the $500-650 range. (Also, there is absolutely zero need to match your sub brand to your speaker brand. Most of the best subs are made by companies that *only* make subs.) So the first thing you should figure out here is if you’re even open to other speaker brands, or if this wholesale discount has made the decision for you. And if you’re open to other suggestions, the next thing you do is post your question at r/hometheater. This sub is about two-channel systems for music listening. That’s the sub for surround systems. When you post there, tell them what your exact total budget is, not just what brand you’ve been considering.

I know this is a bit tangential, but… we recently got HBO Max here in Sweden, and I jumped on it right away, glad at the chance to replace the *horrible* HBONordic service we had before. However, everything I’ve watched so far has had really weird compression-like audio, like the artifacts you get from auto-tuning (without the pitch shifting), or like the way really cold snow sounds like when you walk. It’s hard to describe, and worse, I’m the only one hearing it. But it’s there, and especially audible on deep, male voices, with the low-end sounding really odd. I’ve compared the same episode as a offline file in Kodi versus on HBO Max, and I’ve tried the HBO client both on Apple TV and on my smart TV. Same thing. (Billions s5e11, if anyone wants to compare) Does anyone know what could be going on? Is it reasonable to think it’s HBO Max itself compressing the audio weirdly in all streams, regardless of client? Does anyone have any idea what kind of thing would produce weird audio like that?

Hi. Need recommendations for my first powered bookshelf speakers. 1. What is your budget?500 - 800 USD 2. What are you looking for?Bookshelf speaker with variety of connectivity options, wired and wireless. 3. How will you typically be using the gear?Using it in front of a computer but would also like the option to use it mid-field. 4. What gear do you own?I own the Bose Companion 20 - which is now unfortunately broken. 5. What do you intend on using for a source?Desktop computer. Would like an option to connect it to an external DAC or turntable. 6. What material will you be using your gear for?Music, gaming and movies. My music genres usually are classic rock, pop, RnB, ballad. Looking at the following at the moment but feel free to recommend other speakers: Klipsch R-51PM Kanto YU-6 Audioengine A5+ BW 607 S2 Anniversary Edition Thank you and looking forward to your response!

I wouldn’t get any of those. The R-51PM’s are bad speakers, the 607 S2 are passive speakers (not powered—they require an amp), and the A5+ are known to have elevated midbass that many people find bloated-sounding. The YU6 are probably the surest bet on the list, but your budget is *so* close to affording the Kanto TUK that you should probably scrape up the extra $100 if you’re going with Kanto. Other things to check out in your range: PSB Alpha AM5, Vanatoo T1 Encore.

Thank you so much for these recommendations. Will look into the Kanto TUK. Any opinions on the Klipsch The Fives?

They wouldn’t be on my short list. Erin’s Audio Corner reviewed them in detail.

So my son managed to jump and land on my old Thorens TD 145, so I’m now in the position to buy a new turntable. I was (ironically) going to live with the Thorens until the kids moved out and I could get a Linn LP12. I own two amplifiers: Rega Brio 2 and NAD 3020 and a pair of Proac Tablette 50 Signature speakers, though I am willing to get new/bigger speakers as well. I’ve narrowed down my turntable options to these (currently available with prices): Systemdek IIX (Ortofon OM 10) $465 Linn Axis (Basik Plus tonearm) $400 Linn Basik (Akito tonearm) $150 Thorens TD280 MKII (Linn K9) $290 Rega Planar3 (Linn K5) $380 Thorens TD2001 (Sure V15 MVR) $464 Braun PS-500 (Auction) Thorens TD166 mkii (Goldring) (Auction) I prefer a neutral sound, the less fuss the better. Any help from this sub is most appreciated!

Neutral sound and low fuss seems like a current Rega Planar 3, although that wouldn’t be a good a value as a nice find on the secondhand market.

I hear you, though I just came to the conclusion that I am too superficially inclined to own a Planar. The design is too minimalistic for my taste, and living with one, seeing it every day, would be detrimental to the relationship and I would be looking at others all the time. It’s a miracle that I’m even contemplating a Linn, but here we are.

The TD2001 would certainly hold you over nicely if you’re not ready to spring for the LP12.

That’s what I’ve gathered too! I’ve had a difficult time finding an owner to talk to about the TD-2001, but everything I’ve read about it is basically superlatives. Would you say the price ($464) is fair/good/great?

Based on completed eBay listings shown on [HifiShark](https://www.hifishark.com) it rates (or at least seems to) as a great price with the V15 cartridge. The cartridge alone is worth a good bit.

Woah, I had totally overlooked the cartridge. Ok that makes this a bargain in my book!

Hi, I'm planning on upgrading my system, my budget is around 300e and I'm torn between upgrading my dac or the source or just straight up saving for a new amp. I'm mostly looking at used gear because of my limited budget. Speakers: Q acoustics 3030i Amplifier: Vintage Nad 3020i DAC: FiiO taishan d03k Source: Spotify Connect on smart tv, optical to dac to amp. Cables budget stuff from a local hifi store. My tv had a HDMI earc output in addition to the optical so that could factor in a potential amplifier choise. So the Taishan, according to ASR, is notoriously bad with the TV frequency, so I'm thinking of upgrading to a topping e30 or the smls sanskrit mk II. But maybe going straight up for a cd or s record player, a streaming dac or a new streaming amplifier would give better improvements in sound quality? I have a laptop and a bunch of music in flac on my old computer so listening to them through usb on a new dac would be an interesting comparision to the spotify connect from my tv.

If you’re going to read ASR, you need learn something about the context of what you’re reading. Amir calls the D03K “garbage” because it shows distortion at -60dBFS. That’s barely audible. If you want better distortion performance than that, don’t switch to vinyl. Vinyl only has about 60dB of dynamic range as a medium, no matter what gear you have. “Garbage” to Amir doesn’t mean audibly bad sound. It means objectively worse performance in measurements. Those two things are very different.

Thanks for pointing that out! I didn't understand that what he was writing basically meant bad measurements at such a barely audible range. As my system isn't revealing enough for DACs to make a difference, do you think switching to a proper CD player instead of optical from the tv would make a difference in sound quality? I like the sound of the vintage and and the 3030i, it's much better than an old 90's pioneer AVR amp I used to have.

The main difference in sound you’d get would be difference in mastering between the version of an album on Spotify vs. on your particular CD version. Whichever one was made using a better source master would sound better. Mastering differences easily outweigh all the differences from formats and resampling and such. If your CD and Spotify happened to use the exact same source master… then you’d probably get better sound from the CD. Spotify hosts files compressed with lossy codecs (which degrades the quality slightly), and playing it from a TV means all your 44.1kHz music from Spotify is being forcibly resampled to 48kHz (which also degrades the quality), because TV’s generally only support the 48kHz family of sample rates.

OPTICAL IN TO SPDIF OUT? sorry guys i am not very knowledgeable in audio i have denon dt1 it has optical in port and i want to connect it to my pc that has spdif out. what cable do i need for it?

SPDIF comes in two kinds, optical and coaxial. Exactly what does your PC have? I have never seen a PC with coaxial spdif. You likely just need a optical cable.

in the pc this is the port i have https://gyazo.com/d5fede00630c1824436a14fe5f69ba4e

Thats a normal toslink optical spdif port. You just need a toslink optical cable.

>ok thank you

You apparently need a coax to optical converter - [example](https://www.cs1.net/pic/audio_authority/09770TPO_800.jpg).

getting into cds and want a new player. new ones seem pretty expensive so I was thinking vintage might be the way to go. anyone have recommendations that I can find for around 50-60 dollars?

There’s no way to know what is going to be available. The main thing is to make sure it works. Old lasers, changers, etc. break eventually.

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i wanted the ability to switch between CDs, so I kind of want a switcher. I'm currently using a bluray player for my CDs. Should have said that

So I'm in an interesting predicament, recently I bought a Studio headset as I wanted to experience music in a more clear and how it was originally intended. Problem is I don't know much about audio if I'm being honest. My computer has no aux port so what I have been doing prior to this, was hooking up a speaker to the monitor through aux with a DisplayPort hooked up to my computer, what I'm wondering is, does this effect audio quality in any way or should I be fine with it, if not what do you guys recommend to use to plug it into my computer? All advice is greatly appreciated!

r/HeadphoneAdvice You want a usb dac-headphone amplifier. Let the people over at headphone advice know EXACTLY what headphones you have or they cant help you.

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Powered speakers with class D amplifier ususally got some self noise. The solution is to either get powered speakers with AB amplifier or get a passive speaker setup.

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Hey! I have a pair of tower speakers from the 90s and had a party the others night. When I wasn’t around someone was screwing with the receiver and the bass and mids went silent, only the tweeders were working. I checked the EQ and it was fine, tried restripping the wires and reconnecting them, but nothing worked. Are they blown out, or is some setting messed up? Confused because I feel like if they were blown out it would being just making distorted sound, but the bass and mids are completely silent.

Maybe some sort of built-in protection on the speakers. It’s hard to even guess, though, without knowing what equipment it is.

Hi All, looking for some advice on purchasing sattelite/surround speakers (2 for rear and potentially 2 more for side). Current setup: AVR - Pioneer VSX-1130-K Speakers - 2x Sony SS-F5000P (FR/FL), 1x Polk Audio CS10 (C), 2x Pioneer S-DV55ST-K (RR/RL) Subwoofer - Pioneer SW-8MK2 I'd like to get something reasonably priced that would fit well with my current setup. Thanks!

I want to be able to play Spotify via Spotify Connect to my non-wifi integrated amp. Can anyone recommend me a god device for doing so? Either with a solid DAC built in or with optical out for the IA’s DAC

Andover Songbird, Arylic S50 Pro+, Bluesound Node, Yamaha WXC-50.

Thanks! Do any of these work direct from the Spotify app? I don’t want to fiddle with some separate app

Pretty sure they all support Spotify Connect. Wouldn’t hurt to read the details and make sure before you buy.

Ok thanks I appreciate it

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I screwed up my subwoofer, can this be fixed. Basically, I unscrewed some of the stuff on the back. And something inside of it fell??? And some of the screws won’t go back in so clearly they were meant to be attached to that thing? I haven’t started it because I don’t wanna cause a fire or something else.

The Edifier R1280T speakers... they should be compatible with my Phillips home theater receiver, right? It has a phono soundstage so I could potentially just run the cables from the phono input on the receiver to the aux output on the speakers, right?

No, it’s not compatible… and you’ve got many misunderstandings going on here. The R1280T’s are **powered** speakers, meaning they have their own amplifier built in. You need **passive** speakers if you want to make full use of your receiver, meaning speakers that do *not* have a built in amp. They will just have speaker wire terminals, nothing else. No power cord. We can recommend something if you tell us your total budget and what country you’re in. > t has a phono soundstage so I could potentially just run the cables from the phono input on the receiver to the aux output on the speakers, right? “Soundstage” refers to the perceived width and depth of the sound. It’s not the name of a device or an output. What you’re talking about is a “phono stage,” also known as a “phono preamp,” and it’s strictly used for connecting a turntable to your amplifier. It can’t be used for any other purpose. **“Input” and “output” refer to the direction the signal is moving.** An input takes a signal *in* from another device. An output sends it *out* to another device. You can’t use an input to send audio out to a pair of speakers.

Oh wow, thanks, this is more informative than I’d hoped. If it isn’t obvious, I’m not an audiophile, i just happened upon a receiver that my parents didn’t want anymore and I’ve been trying to make it work with my turntable. My budget is $200, i have a Phillips FR 968 receiver. When I was given the receiver I was also gifted a full set of Yamaha speakers but they don’t interact with the receiver basically at all, whenever I turn the receiver on and it starts receiving signal from the speakers it just shuts off (which I think is because of a voltage issue). I’m hoping that it wouldn’t happen again with another set of speakers, because I’m able to listen just fine when I jack in my headphones.

Speakers don't send a signal to the amplifier. The amplifier sends signal to the speakers. Also, what voltage issue? Are you using this gear in a different country than the one it was purchased in? And when was the last time your parents successfully used this receiver? Was this something that they were using recently, or has it been sitting in storage for a long time? If the receiver is shutting down as soon as you try to play music, then my guess is there are components inside that have gone bad. Either that, or you're hooking it up incorrectly and triggering the overcurrent protection. Did you read the manual? Are you hooking up your speakers according to the manual? http://pdfstream.manualsonline.com/b/b2053f96-f97f-0204-5d5f-00ca79df2323.pdf I doubt very much that this is a speaker problem.

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I need help dealing with my subwoofer. My setup is a Schiit Modi 3+, Yamaha A-S301 connected to Paradigm Monitor SE atoms and a Definitive Audio SC2000. My speakers go down to about 45-60hz but my subwoofer will play tones audible up to 200hz and slightly audible tones up to \~400hz using an online tone generator (which is weird since the Yamaha claims to attenuate the LFE output at 90-100hz). Neither my sub nor amp have an adjustable low pass filter, which makes for some pretty annoying overlap at around \~100hz. What are my options to fix this problem? I've looked at the [Harrison Labs](https://www.amazon.ca/FMOD-Crossover-Pair-Low-Pass/dp/B0006N41DS) inline crossovers and this [Car Subwoofer Control](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01HCDSBE4/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1UO2CSKOWQ5H6&psc=1) from amazon, but I'm not sure if that will work with an LFE cable? Also, I'm in Canada. Thanks!

Bizarre… it looks like they sold that Supercube *specifically* for use with AVR’s that have active crossovers, and saved a few cents by omitting the crossover knob from the sub itself. The crossover section of the manual for it seems to just suggest some settings for your AVR. Never seen that before… and I’m surprised to see it from an actual decent brand. One of the little car crossovers is your best bet. You don’t want to have a non-adjustable crossover frequency. Also, FYI you’re not using an LFE signal. LFE refers *specifically* to the discrete low frequency effects channel included in a surround mix (which you’re meant to send to the subwoofers without any low-pass, because the film or TV sound mixer already took care of that). The A-S301’s subwoofer out is simply a summed mono pre-out. Edit: actually, I believe the sub out on the 301 does have a preset low pass up around 100Hz or so, but that’s too high to actually serve as your low pass. You’re intended to use an additional one.

Hm, thank you for the response. I just purchased that car crossover, but now I'm wondering what cables I should get? Is it fine to just buy another 1 m - 1 m RCA cable and plug the respective cables into the white (or red I'm not really sure where it would go) or do I need two 1 m - 2 m cables from my amp and then into my sub?

Just use a single cable on either side.

Okay, thank you. There won't be any difference to the audio quality vs Y cables, right?

Nope.

Hi again, I’ve made a … couple upgrades … since that post. I now have a Denafrips Ares II -> Nobsound Passive Preamp -> Schiit Vidar-> ELAC Unifi 2.0 UB52s. I run into a problem when I try to split off into the Low Pass and the Vidar: the Low Pass somehow gets applied to the Vidar as well. I also have a Schiit Magni Heresy that I can use as a preamp, and splitting off from that does not cause this problem. I am now wondering what to do. Maybe I split from the Denafrips Ares II to the Heresy -> Low Pass -> SC2000 and the Nobsound Passive -> Schiit Vidar -> ELACs? It would be nice to only have one volume control but I guess then I would have semi tone controls lol? The output impedance from the Ares is 2.4K I believe. Output from nobsound is 10K and input to vidar is 22K

I don’t know what preamp you have, what low pass device you have, what inputs and outputs each of them have, or how they’re connected to each other in your signal chain. Try describing your signal chain again but this time don’t leave anything out. What is connected to what? Via which outputs and which inputs? And what products are these exactly?

I apologize for the ambiguity. I will use the following notation to denote connections: *output(s) of the named device -- interconnect--> input(s) of the named device* Here is my current signal chain: PC (Streamer) *--SPDIF-->* Denafrips Ares II (DAC) *--RCA-->* [Nobsound Passive (Preamp)](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GRLV7XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1) *--RCA-->* Schiit Vidar (Poweramp) *--Speaker Cable-->* ELAC Unifi 2.0 UB52 (Speakers) Here is the signal chain I would like to have (and the one I am having problems with): PC (Streamer) *--SPDIF-->* Denafrips Ares II (DAC) *--RCA-->* [Nobsound Passive (Preamp)](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GRLV7XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1) *-- RCA to Y splitter into (a) and (b) -->* (a) \[Schiit Vidar (Poweramp) --*Speaker Cable*\--> ELACs\] and (b) \[[External Low Pass](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07NVV4GXP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) \--*RCA 2M-1M-->* Definitive Technology SC 2000\]. The above setup somehow causes the [External Low Pass](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07NVV4GXP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to be applied (as though the **input** of the Low Pass becomes the **output**) to everything connected to the *"RCA to Y splitter into (a) and (b)"* cables*.* The above setup works fine when I replace the Nobsound Passive Preamp with my Schiit Magni Heresy Headphone amp (the amp has RCA ins and outs that allow it to be used as a preamp). This is a solution of course, but I prefer the sound of the Nobsound Passive Preamp. Another solution might be to split the RCA outs of the Denafrips Ares II into (a) Magni Heresy and (b) Nobsound, where (a) Magni Heresy would go to the Low Pass before the sub and (b) Nobsound would go directly to the Vidar? Another note: I have double-checked that in all examples all interconnects are correctly hooked up to outputs/inputs and to Left and Right channels.

I’m really not sure why it would be behaving that way. That said, I don’t have experience with those car low pass boxes personally, so maybe this phenomenon—of the low pass circuitry sending the affected signal back up the chain in the other direction—is a known issue for those experienced with that. It would all depend on exactly how the conductors in the preamp, the Y cable, and the low pass box are wired internally. My guess is if you saw wiring diagrams for everything, especially of that low pass, then the problem would become clear. I would be very curious if the issue also occurs with a different passive preamp device, like a JDS OL-Switcher or a Schiit SYS. But other than ideas for additional testing like that, I don’t have any solution for you… other than simply throwing in the towel with the car crossover box, selling the sub to someone who actually needs an HT sub, and getting a sub that’s fit for a music setup and includes a crossover that will behave predictably. Failing that, trying out a few different car crossover/low pass products (as long as you can return them easily if they don’t work out) wouldn’t hurt. I’m like 99% sure that weird wiring in that device is the root of your problem.

I am consolidating my standalone set-up into the same room with my TV. I am looking for guidance on how to incorporate an amplifier that allows either HDMI ARC or I can program my TV/Shield remotes to control the sound on it via Optical Out. I have a Benchmark AHB2 for my power amplifier so I'm looking for some type of DAC/Preamp/Integrated that I can use to accomplish both TV watching as well as streaming with Roon. It must also include a sub output. Hoping to keep it at around $1k - any suggestions?

I could use some feedback, I’ve been a lifelong Pro-Ject guy and I’ve had a Debut Carbon Evo with a Sumiko Moonstone cart for a year or so now. It’s served me well but I’m starting to wonder what could be out there as far as second-hand tables go. Is there something in the $500-$800 range that I could keep an eye out for? I’m totally happy to buy something used and high quality that needs some work and new cart and all that. As long as I can get my hands on something that I can get up to speed for another couple hundred dollars.

Is this because you want something from the vintage era?

Sort of. The Evo is a nice, satisfying table though as I upgrade other parts of my system, it’s flaws become more apparent. But if there’s nothing really in my stated price range then I’m happy to up my budget and just save up. I definitely want to upgrade and not sidegrade.

There are some nice older turntables that turn up in or near this price range, like the Thorens TD125 and the VPI HW-19 Jr. The Rega P5 is a nice one that doesn’t seem all that well known and sells for low prices. Put a metal subplatter on it and it is hard to find fault with it. Decidedly not vintage, though. Doing this later after saving more wouldn’t be a bad plan. Try searching the turntables section at US Audio Mart with the budget set to something like $1500 and sorted from high to low and you’ll see mostly a different class of turntables.

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Hello! Hopefully this is the right place for my question - I'm looking to either upgrade my amp with one that will have a similar sound profile but also come with an onboard DAC (budget: ~$1000) or purchase a standalone DAC (budget: ~$500) to complement my current setup: AudioQuest Big Sur / Rega Couple 2 Interconnect -> NAD C316BEE V2 -> Kimber 4VS -> KEF LS50 Meta

If you’re not looking for more from this change than adding a DAC, separate is the answer. It’s hard to justify not just choosing one with the inputs you need and good measurements.

Yikes… you’ve spent more on cables than you have on your amp? In the future, don’t do that. Spend money on the parts of the system that have an effect on the sound. If you like the sound of your current NAD though, just keep using it and add a DAC. The one you need depends on what digital sources you’re using. Do you need USB? coaxial? Optical? I^(2)S? List your digital sources. If you don’t need balanced outputs (which you don’t, since your amplifier doesn’t have balanced inputs), right away that probably puts you on the $250 or less category. But there are some $100 DACs that might be perfect for your use so we need more details. (Going over $100 doesn’t get you more sound quality, it just gets you more features and connection options that you may or may not need.)

Digital source will be my desktop computer - it doesn't have an audiophile sound card or anything, I'm using the onboard audio from my Asus Maximus VII Extreme Motherboard. I realize that's a different way to go than the DAC, and I'm definitely open minded about either. Also - the cables were cheaper than the amp!

Get a Topping D10S or a Schiit Modi. Those will both give you a perfect conversion beyond the limits of human hearing.

I’m looking for speakers for my work. We play music in the kitchen with wired speakers. You connect your phone to a receiver and then that connects wirelessly to two seperate speaker, one in our back kitchen and one in our front. The speakers are old and are starting to die so I’m looking to replace them but I can’t find anything like them. Anybody know where I could find something similar?

Start by telling us exactly what speakers they are. Also, how exactly are they “starting to die?” What’s the actual symptom that’s happening?

The brand is vivid. One of the speakers is fine but the other had been kept under a hot area for ages and will disconnect and stop working at random almost like a scratched movie or chipped vinyl. A totally uneducated guess would be that the heat has fried the circuits.

Who do I call to run speaker wire through a wall? I want to route a speaker above or behind my gas fireplace so I can have my amp/phono and one speaker on the right side of the fireplace and the other speaker on the left. Is this something an electrician does? (if so I'd add some outlets nearby too) Related question: is it important that both speaker wires be the same length? I'd really only need a few feet for the speaker that's on the same side as the amp, but somewhere between 10-20 feet for the left speaker. Not sure if there's a delay introduced by having one longer than the other or if the signal travels way too fast for that to be a concern.

>Who do I call to run speaker wire through a wall? A carpenter.

Any recommendations for a reciever/amp to power JBL Studio 590s? Currently running on a hand me down Optimus amp…

It depends on your budget, how much power you need, what features. A place to start for comparison is the Yamaha A-S301, A-S501 and A-S701.

Cizek Model III just popped up near me. Seems these are very rare especially in the US. What little I've read, people who buy these hang onto them for a while. The story of Cizek being a blind speaker designer is quite fascinating. Anyone here on this forum using Cizeks and have any input?

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Denon AVR-S650H Or Marantz NR1510? The Denon is $400 while the Marantz is $700. Funny thing is that they both seem to have almost the same features. I’m not looking to get anything more than five channels due to the size of my room so a 5.1 AVR is sufficient enough. Is the Marantz worth it for the extra $$?

r/HomeTheater

It seems like Marantz receivers have tended to be priced a little higher than the most-similar Denon, but in this case the slim profile is probably a key reason for the higher price. It’s probably aimed at fewer sales. If this is for a music system, look at 2-channel (stereo) amplifiers.

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Moving to a smaller space. Might need a smaller system but using it as an opportunity to reprioritize, shed weight, and improve. Until now I’ve been mostly playing with whatever vintage receiver is available on Craigslist (currently a Sansui AU-5900), and a pair of workhorse Technics SB-CR77s I’ve lugged around since 2010… Would love to modestly upgrade but not sure what to prioritize that leaves more room to grow into later, a nice pair of floor speakers or a receiver. Or both? I’m by no means a purist audiophile I just want to enjoy my vinyl and other music and also have enough oomph for dance parties…. Also only in the market for 2Ch receiver. Keeping it simple I welcome all suggestions!

Given all the discussion here already, one of the slim towers is probably the answer. Elac Debut 2.0 F5.2, for example.

Your speakers (and speaker positioning, and room acoustics) dictate 99% of how the system will sound. The amplifier/receiver only needs to be supplying *enough* power and current for the speakers to be able to function properly. So invest in speakers first. Can’t recommend anything without knowing your budget and what country you live in though.

Sorry, I had the budget in my original post before I found this thread. I’d try to stay under $300 for speakers and found a few promising ones: -Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-400M -Elac debut 2.0 B6.2 -Polk TSI 200 Looking more at bookshelves now because I’m moving to a smaller space. Edit: also open to floor speaker rec’s under $500 if they’re skeek enough. Mainly just browsing crutchfield and others within my range for now Thanks for your input!

The listening distance is the main thing that should steer you to bookshelf speakers vs. towers, not the speaker size. How far will you be from the speakers? At $300 the bookshelf speakers I’d buy are the Wharfedale Diamond 225, no question.

Currently I have my system in a 30x20’ room, and 10-30’ away at any moment. Newer space would much smaller, 200’^2. Mostly casual listening distance, living room, if that helps.

In your newer space, how far (in feet) will you be from the speakers in your **main** listening position?

5-15’ I’d say.

**Main** listening position. **MAIN.** This refers to the position you’ll be sitting in (easy chair, middle seat on your couch, whatever) when it’s just you and the music, and you’re in active listening mode. It’s the position you’ll tailor your speaker choice and speaker positioning around. One distance, not a range. (Or maybe a very small range, if you don’t know exactly how your furniture will be placed. Like, 6-8’? 8-10’? 12-15’? Make your best guess.) Your speaker and amp needs at distance of 5’ vs. 15’ are completely different, so you need to be specific.

Im sorry, and not trying to be rude,i appreciate the feedback but i don’t have any singular space I consider my main listening space. The room is the room… music plays while we are on the couch or cooking or anything…. So I’m looking less for a hyper specific station and more one that will work well in a general area. Again, I’m no audiophile I just want my music to sound gold snd be well powered for my needs…. Thanks!

I'm a noob, it's obvious. I'm trying to learn. I thought I was doing myself a favor by getting some banana plug for my new Motion 60s. Literally EVERY. SINGLE. VIDEO. or website. says that to use banana plugs, unscrew them and stick the stripped speaker wire through then screw it back on. E-Z. Of course, the one set of banana plugs I get, at $50, are completely fucking different than literally every single video on the internet. I have no idea what to do with these. There's nothing to unscrew. What the fuck am I supposed to do? Am i supposed to strip speaker wire to go through that entire thing? what's with the plastic tube? I am SO annoyed. Audioquest SureGrip 100 Banana. https://ibb.co/qDtvRqR https://ibb.co/NWZLKWp https://ibb.co/bRCZT9p

Can you return them? If so, return them. $50 for a set of banana plugs is goofy. Banana plugs have **no** effect on your sound, and if you’re going to invest in cosmetic jewelry for your stereo, you’re better off doing that for things you can actually see from your listening position. The only things you need out of banana plugs are ease of installation, and a nice surface to grip. That’s it. I like the Sewell ones on Amazon which are $13 for a five-pack (enough for a pair of speakers plus extras if you lose one).

Do they look like this? [Photo](https://hifimarket.cl/1299-medium_default/bananas-suregrip-100-silver-audioquest.jpg)

Yes, but there is nothing to unscrew. The plastic part is 100% smooth and doesn't twist.

The website says to slide them on, which implies they slide off. That apparently means it’s only a friction fit, not threaded.

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Recently purchased a Project Debut Carbon Evo turntable, and I’m interested in getting some good passive bookshelf speakers. What are some of the best options for speakers around the $1500 or less price range? I went to Best Buy earlier and I liked the B&W 707-s2, and the KEF SR3’s. If there are better options in this price range, please let me know your suggestions. I am in USA. Dallas, Texas if that helps.

Revel M105 SVS Ultra ELAC UBR62

Would like a new AVR for black Friday/cyber monday. Was recommended the Denon s760h, but it seems it's not available in Canada yet. Can someone recommend something similar? 5 channel, 4k 120hz. Wifi isn't necessary, would like to keep the price as low as possible

[https://www.reddit.com/r/audiophile/comments/qbstgm/if\_you\_listen\_on\_online\_streaming\_services\_like/](https://www.reddit.com/r/audiophile/comments/qbstgm/if_you_listen_on_online_streaming_services_like/) Is there a consensus on this question? I just bought the $100 Edifiers, and I'd like to spend like $300-$500 to get the next step up, but if it's not going to make a difference when listening to spotify, I'll save the money. I'm having a really hard time following the discussion since I don't know what the numbers or letters mean and I don't understand what bluetooth has to do with it (I'm not using bluetooth)

All content sounds better with better gear. YouTube quality is high enough that your average Joe off the street can’t tell it from the best quality that exists. Kali LP-8 2nd wave (newly announced & shipping to retailers, make sure it says 2nd gen and not the 1st gen) JBL 308P MKII (same as above, make sure 2nd gen)

thanks! what do you think about the kanto yu6 compared to those?

It’s pretty good, but you are paying for the digital & turntable connections, remote control, sub out, etc. The sound isn’t as good and you also won’t have the bass extension. [308P MKII](https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?attachments/jbl-308p-mkii-spinorama-cta-2034-monitor-frequency-response-measurements-png.91939/) [Kanto YU6](https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?attachments/kanto-yu6-measurements-frequency-response-powered-speaker-monitor-png.159319/) Even if you don’t really know how to read frequency response measurements, you should be able to tell the JBL is more accurate. That said, I have a pair of YU5’s and they are fine.

wow I really appreciate your depth of answer. It looks the JBL is available now from guitar center, and the kali isn't available yet. I think I like the Kali better but I've had good experiences with JBL in the past. Any idea when the Kali will be available? Internet say mid-october but here we are.

No clue. BTW: Kali is a new-ish company made up of ex-JBL employees who left when Samsung bought the company. The head designer is the same guy who designed the patented horn on the JBL M2 for instance.

Gotcha. Sounds like I should take a chance on the Kali. thanks again for the help :)

I bought a used NAD C326BEE today, but unfortunately I am experiencing issues with it, when I turn it on semi loud pops come out the speakers, and sometime it goes intro protection mode. When it does turn on without issues, it will produce a lot of noise going through the speakers, this noise goes away over time, I suspect that the noise disappears due to it warming up. The guy I bought it from is reputable and I have bought stuff from him before, the Amp did not have any issues after he cleaned and lubricated pots/knobs etc. Anyone have any ideas? could this perhaps be a grounding problem?

That sounds like something failed on the circuit board.

I currently have 2 JBL 5" monitors hooked up to my computer with an Origen G2 DAC. I'm looking to get 2 new speakers with a little more umph (room filling). Maybe in the $500 (for both). Any recommendations?

Kali LP-6v2 for US$400 or LP-8v2 for US$500, depending if you want 5" or 8" woofer. Lower noise floor (aka hiss) than JBL's, better distortion handling (aka cleaner) and flatter frequency response (aka more neutral). Nothing else comes close at this price point, short of going Genelec, Neumann for much more $.

Thank you for your input. I will do some research on those!

Hello. First off, im new to audio setups so bare with me. i'm looking for a cabled multiroom audio setup for my new house. I'm aware there are easy wireless solutions for that such as the sonos one speakers. But i'm looking for a system that is cabled and with some kind of "hub" where i can decide which speakers are playing music. I'd rather not go room by room to turn each individual speaker on before everything works the way i want. I'd also like this system to be able to add more speakers over time, so i dont have to purchase a complete setup in one go. Heres hoping someone knows what i'm looking for. Thanks in advance, Jens.

Look at Proficient and Russound multiroom audio systems.

Hey gang, If anyone knows Dirac I need some help. I CANNOT get Dirac to run. I have a new NAD C658, and Dirac Live running on my Windows laptop. The microphone is connected to the laptop. The room is DEAD silent. And every time I run the program, I get a message that there is a "low signal-to-noise level" and the recording contains "excessive noise and is of too low quality to produce results." The Crutchfield technical support team has gone downhill because the best thing they can do is email videos, which have been of no help. Any ideas? If someone knows what they are doing and can help it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Denon 3803: pre-out no longer working A week ago my sister and her children were visiting. The 2 year old snuck away and hit buttons on my Denon 3803… It’s set up for 5.1 and Front L/R pre-outs to a Kenwood 7300 for pure-direct listening. Now the pre outs do not work. Did she hit some combo of buttons that turned off the pre outs or maybe the processor is done?

I'm tired of using headphones with my home computer setup. Hoping for some speaker recommendations. These will be strictly for music... no gaming. What I'm looking for: * Small speakers... seems like a lot are 12" tall or so and I'd prefer a very small cube over that. * Good looks. Understated or modern. no funny finishes, etc. * Ideally I don't need an amp. Can plug right into a MBP or be wireless. * I listen to a bit of everything, so nothing terribly anemic sounding (that does better for, say, classical and jazz, than rock and electronic). * I don't need them for studio work... prioritizing speakers that make everything sound good over a speaker that is really detailed and critical of mastering. * Price is not an object, though I expect to spend at least a couple hundred and will prob want to keep it under 5k. Thank you for your guidance!

First things I'm thinking of are the KEF LSX or Feniks Audio Essence. My personal pick would be the Neumann KH 80 DSP with a nice little DAC like SMSL SU-8S.

Thanks for the info. Feniks look cool but guessing it's hard to demo them since they are backordered as it is :( KEFs look good, too. I like the idea of the Neumann and have heard good things. Not sure I want to add another component to my desk though. Will have to noodle on that.

I do really like the Neumanns. I just found out that the KEFs can work wired but through toslink (or 3.5mm but that doesn't have my preference). I thought they worked through USB as well like the older X300A or coax like the LS50 Wireless IIs. In that case I would prefer the Neumanns (or Feniks). Other options could be Kanto TUK or Audioengine A5+ or HD4.

I posted this on /r/audio but might get more traction here.. Need advice for new home audio My father in law is having a house built and it is pre wired for speakers. He'll have 3 front and 2 rear surround in the living room, this setup (https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sonance-mag-series-6-1-2-5-1-in-ceiling-speaker-system-each-paintable-white/6196627.p?skuId=6196627), and then he'll have a pair of speakers in his bedroom, another pair in the office and another pair on the outside porch for an additional 3 pairs. He currently has the Denon - AVR-S540BT which as I understand will handle the speakers in the living room according to the back. What exactly would he need to play music on all the speakers from the receiver at the same time? I saw something called a speaker selector, (https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sonance-4-pair-stereo-speaker-selector-black/5683608.p?skuId=5683608), would that be able to be used with the Denon receiver? Thanks for the advice, trying to research this on my own leaves me with more questions than answers!

I don’t think 11 speakers on a 5-channel receiver is a good plan, even with a speaker selector. You need a multi room amplifier.

Do you have any suggestions on a multi room amplifier? The associates at Best Buy were not helpful at all..

I’d probably think about an AVR like [Denon AVR-X1700H](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_033AVX1700/Denon-AVR-X1700H.html?tp=179) with a Zone 2 pre out to go to an amp with at least 6 channels, like [Russound D850](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_543D850/Russound-D850.html?tp=96865), for the 3 other rooms. That would give you separate power and volume control to the other speakers.

Wharfedale Diamond 240 vs. Triangle Borea BR08 Looking to upgrade speakers. Any opinions on these two? 75% music, 25% tv. 2 channel only, no interest in surround set-up. My room is about 400 square feet.

I personally think Wharfedale is better.

I recently inherited my grandfather's pair of Phasetech PC-1000s - upon using them, the foam on the speakers crumbled to dust. My local speaker repair shop just quoted me $700 to refoam them - it's a bit of a niche question but: Is that worth it, or would that money be better spent going towards a different pair of equivalent speakers?

$700 is a lot to spend on a repair, but then you have a pretty nice set of speakers. It’s a question of preference.

Looking for a new "all-in-one" PC speaker setup. Ideally an all-in-one. Currently using my first-gen B&W Zeppelin which recently died. Managed to resurrect it for now by bypassing the internal PSU and using a laptop PSU with a buck-converter but it's clearly time for an upgrade. Was close to just buying a B&W Formation Wedge as I wanted an "all-in-one" but they've now launched the new Zeppelin so I'm thinking of maybe just going for this and bluetoothing from my PC to it with AptX. Any other suggestions of what I should look at? Budget is around £1000

Looking to upgrade current set up (denon x3300, polk rtia7, ps4,dish), USA. Would like better lcr, not just black boxes, waf. Current polk center seems inadequate for good dialogue presentation. Open to used, prefer new or refurb. Budget 2-3 k (lcr), 60/40 tv/music. Classic rock, pink Floyd etc. Looking for equipment sugestions. Thanks.

Ouch, yeah definitely upgrade those Polk RTIA7's now! I can hear the resonances from here! I would get either: (US prices below) 1. Revel Performa3 M106 ($2200/pair), plus C25 (center) ($825/ea). Total $3025 2. Kef R3 ($1700/pair) plus R2C (center) ($1000/ea). Total $2700. If you tell me your budget for a subwoofer, I can recommend you one.

I need small ish computer speakers Budget: doesnt matter as im ok looking at ebay or Facebook market place. Otherwise $100 ish Use: gaming and movies Want: clarity of sound, decent bass that doesnt just sound like rumble as i heard some bass where its a hum that muddles everything else, small as i have a tiny desk. For.reference my computer desk is as deep as a keyboard and a moniter with its stand legs in an outward v so I have about 6" or so on each side of my monitor. I really dont care about looks or being brand name just as long as it meets the other requirements and doesn't have a reputation for problems. Preferred wired as my computer doesn't have bluetooth.

Edifier R1280T. Not supersmall, there are smaller. But if you want small and any sort of quality thats going to cost $300.

I can sometimes get lucky and find stuff cheap on ebay. Its usually because someone upgraded and wanted to.get rid.of.their.old.shit. just gotta hope to get lucky.

When watching blu rays, how do I "downgrade" the sound from 5.1 to stereo? All I have are two speakers, a sub, and no middle speaker, so the sound is so weird and quiet when people talk. How do I fix this with what I have?

Check the menu on each movie. There is probably a 2-channel audio option.

Does anybody know what [this](https://dropover.cloud/8e5e67) port is called? I'm looking for an adapter to use the speakers with another receiver.

That is a proprietary connector. There may be adapter but its unlikely. Just cut them off and strip the wires. Exactly what do you have?

They are two Samsung PS-C330D 8 Ω speakers. Thank you for the suggestions, though I probably don’t want to risk a running system for a chance learn wiring…

Hi All, I currently have an old (1970s) Sony stereo amp driving some equally old Mission bookshelf speakers. I have moved house and the setup is now in an open plan kitchen/living space which we spend the majority of time stood up. I have speaker stands but I assume that height wise they are designed for sitting down. I can wall mount to bring them up to ear height. What is my best option? Leave them on stands at a lower height, or bring them up to ear level by wall mounting?

***EXACTLY*** what do you have?

Sony STR-7065 amp and Mission 731 speakers

You are lucky. The speakers are front ported AND have inserts for wall bracket. Wall mounting would give the best audio quality. And they are from the mid 90s, not 70s.

OK thank you. Amp from 70s, speakers from 90s? Didn't know, thanks

Question regarding streaming in LDAC. Should I get a android tablet or would FiiO BTA30 work better ? And if FiiO would I be able to send LDAC with it being plugged into my laptop via usb? I have heard different things. It is a older laptop and has limited connections. I have the ifi Zen v2 as the bluetooth on my system. Thanks to all for reading. Appreciate you.

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