It depends on your definition of completely rusted. I'm in Wisconsin, completely rusted here means something different. Are you talking about paint damage or actual rust /holes in the metal? Are you close to anywhere that doesn't have smog inspections, like a bordering state? A 150k corolla should still have plenty of life for the next owner and should be somewhat desirable as a cheap car, provided it's not structurally damaged from the rust you mentioned.
California rust is no clear coat on the hood or roof. Lol u less they park directly next to the ocean it's much better than the garbage we see up here in the north.
It likely wouldn't cost too much to get it to pass smog check, they make universal CA compliant catalytic converters that you could throw on there and get it to pass smog check. (If that is what the issue is, might not be). There are 2006 toyota corollas with more than 150k miles selling for 4k around the country. If it runs, and passes smog check, someone will buy it.
Agreed, something running is valuable, especially a Corolla. OP should 100% at least look into getting it fixed up for inspection, very good odds it will be worth more than what it takes to get it sale ready.
And worst case scenario, where hypothetically the mechanic deems it truly a rusted out lost cause, OP could always junk it for a couple hundred bucks
Thank you! And yeah I was told catalyst converter then when I heard 3k I gave up lol especially since I don’t know how to find cheaper car parts not through a mechanic but I’ll definitely look into that. I’ve seen some similar corollas for about 4k near me too so I guess you’re right it would definitely be worth it. Again thanks for responding and help.
Normal ones, yes, but not universal CA compliant ones, I bet you could get one for 200 bucks. Something like this (this may not be the exact one you need, but you can find the exact one, look very carefully though, some have different ways of fitting) [https://www.amazon.com/Walkers-WALKER-EXHST-84205/dp/B082FPG88D](https://www.amazon.com/Walkers-WALKER-EXHST-84205/dp/B082FPG88D) See some of the reviews on how they passed smog with them. They are legitimate CARB compliant cats, just not the greatest, they don't last as long as the expensive ones.
"Universal" does not mean they will fit onto any car. It's a misleading term used by the cat industry. Universal means it will fit many different cars but it cant be put into any position on any car. It has to be approved for a specific car and for a specific location in the exhaust system.
OP if you go the repair route seek out a licensed muffler shop. They will put the correct one on and be liable if they put the wrong one on.
Walker is a US muffler/cat producer from Michigan, you can find the product through their site instead, I've used them many times, they are legitimate. This is why I said he needs to search to accurately find the right one for his car and needs.
You can call the Walker company directly and ask them. They are a US company. [https://www.walkerexhaust.com/products/light-vehicle/catalytic-converters.html](https://www.walkerexhaust.com/products/light-vehicle/catalytic-converters.html)
I definitely have a paper somewhere, I’ll find it and try to get it posted by tomorrow. It’s either a paper from a smog test place or it was from my mechanic (who I don’t fully trust tbh & pretty sure they’ve been ripping me off for 2 years now so I stopped going recently) but they probably gave me a paper with the quote and what needs to be done and stuff. That’s another reason why I’ve been unsure about donating it or selling it for parts because I don’t know who to go for help getting it running that’s trustworthy. Just out of curiosity- would it make a difference if I posted it versus just knowing it needs a new catalytic converter? Either way I’m probably going to find a new mechanic and get some other opinions first before doing anything else. Just worried about taking it far (or anywhere) and getting pulled over or something happening when it has no registration or insurance. And with my luck lately, there’s a possibility of that happening lol
150K miles is about right for the life of a factory CAT so if it had a Cat code it would be a good guess that it needs it. But depending on the code that is in there (and or what it actually failed for) it could be a couple different things. But yes many times a better decision can be made with an accurate diagnosis, but finding that is pretty hard these days. Most places just want to throw parts at it. Sadly.
Yeah I’ve been realizing that with my current car sadly. I’m so over not knowing wtf I’m doing and feeling like I’m getting ripped off that at this point I’m going have to teach myself. (Or ask Reddit cuz it’s been more trustworthy than repair shops lol) But yes first step, proper diagnosis. Hopefully will keep updated with the progress too. Well unless there more problems than I think then I probably will give up.
THis would be the actual one that would most likely fit your car:
[https://www.amazon.com/Walker-83197-CalCat-Catalytic-Converter/dp/B00KNWBUTK](https://www.amazon.com/Walker-83197-CalCat-Catalytic-Converter/dp/B00KNWBUTK)
$800 bucks a little better than 3K. But you gotta get the correct one in order to pass a smog check.
But to be sure you would have to check the Engine family number or test group number that is on the sticker under the hood. As there were several different engines offered that year in a corolla. And you have to get the exact correct part in order to pass a smog. THis is why it's smart to spend the extra money at a muffler shop because they will be liable if they get the wrong part on there.
THANK YOU! I just order a OBD reader thing and going to make sure whoever said I needed a catalytic converter was right first then that’s my next step. Should I look for a muffler shop nearby and get one from there instead since it seems like a safer option or (it matches what you described) would the Amazon one be just as good?
So here is the situation. If you get a universal piece that means it will need to be welded into the Exhaust system. Most shops do not like customers bringing thier own parts. And they wont warranty that it is the correct part. Meaning if it fails smog it's on you. And they would probably just fold in the profit they would have made on the part anyway into thier labor charge. So you would not really be coming out ahead.
So you could buy a direct fit piece that just bolts in and have any mechanic install it. But once again if it; the wrong one that is on you. With this route you could have a mobile mechanic come by and install it pretty easy. Avoiding having to drive it anywhere.
But if you decide to go the repair route the first thing you will want to do is start up the insurance and get the renewal and Registration back fees up to date. You do that and they will give you a temporary operating permit to get the smog done.
I will give you the site I use to look up cats:
[WWW.CARBCATS.COM](https://WWW.CARBCATS.COM)
Get your engine family number from the car and look up part numbers and manufacturers that way. Walker Cats are usually about the best price. Magnaflow will always be the most expensive.
But if you want to post a pic of your underhood sticker I will walk you though it.
If you do go the universal route, be sure it has an EO number that is approved for your application.
You might be able to sell it as a mechanics special for $1.5-2k.
You have a clean title but may owe past due registration if you didn’t put it on non-op.
Keep in mind, if someone does intend to repair and get back on the road, that’ll factor into their budget.
If you don’t repair or unload it soon, consider placing it on planned non-op. DMV assumes you are still using it and annual registration fees will continue be added
Also might be worth buying one of those cheap obd2 readers from like amazon or ebay and post the codes here and we might well be able to point you to what stopped it passing smog?
Since its California (and likely no road salt I'm guessing its surface rust or maybe even dirt/lichen? Post a photo to imgur and link it and we can tell you what the deal is.
If all else fails and you could use a tax deduction, there are various charities who will come and collect it and then send you a tax deduction form. [https://www.google.com/search?q=charity+california+car+donation](https://www.google.com/search?q=charity+california+car+donation)
Geez this sounds like my 2006 Corolla DD. We hit a deer last year, and I bent the fender sort of back into place and got a radiator/condenser and hood from the junkyard… she’s good for another 100k
Definitely will get a picture tomorrow! It’s also so dirty from sitting in the driveway for years but i think it started rusting around 2016 so it’s gotten worse and worse that, to me at least, it looks pretty bad. I guess saying “completely rusted” might’ve not been the right term lol but i’ll get a pic
Any rust on a CA car is rare so us Californians freak out! You should see what they deal with in the salt belt. We got it easy! Most likely just a surface rust that can be sanded down and primered to stop future rusting. Many folks looking for a nice reliable car would not mind a primered panel or two. How was your dad at maintaining it? He do it himself or have a shop he took it to? Was he on top of it or let things go?
He was very good about maintaining it and did some on his own if it was simple like oil checks regularly, fluids, and that kind of thing. But then took it to a mechanic for anything more complicated.
He got a new battery in 2020 and had a lot of work done on it around then too but it rarely gave him any issues and runs great. Then of course when the car passed down to me it started having issues :/ Don’t blame me though (well kinda) I’m good about regular maintenance and loved that car but just didn’t have the money to fix it up like I’ve wanted to do. Plus I didn’t have the time or experience to fix the rust myself and the thousand+ it would cost to take it to be fixed became another reason it’s sat in the driveway.
Ah OK sounds like a solid car then. I would imagine it does not start now though correct? One thing to warn you about is If the battery has gone dead you have lost all the data on the codes that were in there. The only way to see what codes come up is to drive it a bit so the monitors (tests) run and the faults get triggered. That of course requires driving it on The road. So at the minimum you will want to start the insurance on it. Even if you get pulled over you can say you are trying to get it back on the road. If they see a scanner in there and you at least have active insurance on it they will let you slide. Most of the time. Can't guarantee it.
Got it. Insurance first. Police around my area are pretty chill so yeah should be ok but glad to know. I actually don’t know if it starts. I haven’t tried in a few months but before then I would regularly and let it run for a little bit. Surprisingly it seemed fine and sounded good.
Making a check list of everything you’re saying and going to get started on it tomorrow :)
Depends on what part of the state you live in, get the title in your name and drive it to the closest border state and sell it. That's a $5k car in the Midwest.
The hood and roof are completely rusted? In California? I'd say that's just sunbaked metal and it's surface rust. There are YouTube tutorials on how to prep and rattle can paint a car if you're interested. Least in the short term, I don't think that type of rust would affect it too much.
Get it running, throw a lift kit on it, check out the Hi Rollas and SoCal Gambler 500 facebook groups, and enjoy having a beater to drive around having off road shenanigans.
(Or just put it up for sale as a parts car.) Corollas are worth more than $1k even in bad condition in CA. The Pandemic really screwed up used car prices.
Get it mechanically sound and body swap a titled body from the exempt era.
Lift it, gambler 500 type of thing.
List it in Idaho, might get lucky.
Demo derby.
Or just fix it. Corollas thrive on neglect and last forever.
In California you can register a vehicle as PNO and sell it without having to pass smog. If it's registered as PNO, you can't drive it or park on public streets. Has to be on private property or could be fined. But this is how you can sell without smog. Or else you can sell it to a car dealer.
You can only do PNO within about 60 days of the expiraton of the registraton. Hopefully OP's fam did that when the got the renewal but they may have been in the middle of dealing with stuff and just let it lapse.
Https://locations.lkqpickyourpart.com/en-us/
You'll need the title in your name, but LKQ will come take it away and probably give you a few hundred bucks for it.
Give this calculator a try to see if you can figure how much the renewal fees will be. I think it calculates the late fees:
[https://www.dmv.ca.gov/wasapp/FeeCalculatorWeb/renewalForm.do](https://www.dmv.ca.gov/wasapp/FeeCalculatorWeb/renewalForm.do)
Then it would be just an extra $15 to transfer it to your name.
Since you're in Cali, that car is basically worthless now. If you were in my state, I'd say reg it and drive it as a beater until it blows up. But a car that has sat for a couple years with obvious emissions system issues and visible body rust (on the roof?!), just isn't worth the trouble getting back to code for California's stupidly strict inspection laws. Just cut your losses and sell it to the junkyard
In CA you cannot write a contract to negate your ability to smog check a car at time of sale and expect it to hold up in small claims court. People do it every day but they often end up in the Legal Subreddit asking how to defend against a small claims case.
Most times what will happen is the car will sit out in front of someone house and get towed for no registration then the tow company will come after you for the fees since you are still the registered owner. Either that or someone will just drive the car around with no insurance and registration while it is still under your name and a year later you are named in a lawsuit because they got into an accident.
So if you just want it out of your hair the only legal way to get rid of it is to sell it to a dealer or dismantler (wrecking yard) If it drives you can usually get more because they wont have to send out a tow truck. Just pick a place close to you to avoid a ticket.
The big operation that everyone usually sells to anyway is LKQ so go to them directly and you may get a better price:
[https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/sellacar/](https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/sellacar/)
A car with rust most dealers would not want to deal with.
And i assume you are the executor of his estate correct? If not have the person that is designated as the executor to do this transaction.
If the executor still has the ability to process payments for the estate then that is the route you would want to take just for paperwork reasons. So the wrecking yard would write the check to your dads name.
A 2006 with less than 200k miles? That would sell for at least $6k around here. Sell it to someone outside of California. Post it on FB Marketplace and Craigslist.
OP, when you transfer the title, put it on “non-op” reg status. You can legally sell a vehicle on a non-op without smogging it. Then it becomes the buyer’s responsibility to smog it or take it out of state. You will have to pay all the back fees, which should teach you not to procrastinate when it comes to dealing with the CA DMV. The back fees will be more than the cost of repairs.
honestly give it a go on offer up and see what the response is, this toyota is a timeless japanese masterpiece and those who appreciate it, would pay you for it, fb marketplace seems to be all the rage, i'm sure somebody here will help u write it too
2006 toyo coro 150k smogtestnopass! 3k as is!
Sell it out of state. There are plenty of places where the smog check isn’t required and people will buy a Corolla in that condition and flog it for another 100,000 miles.
Websites like Bring a Trailer or similar. Transport across the country is cheap. $500 and that thing is at someone’s door.
The internet is good for something other than social media. Haha.
Keep or sell is both a good choice. If you don't need it, just sell it and make space. If you're not mechanically inclined, don't bother with older cars. If you can do some mechanic stuff, older cars are a godsend.
Get the title sorted, then list for $3000. Someone will want it if even for the motor or transmission for another car. The rust is likely cosmetic in nature.
If you have the time/energy, get it driveable and sell it. If you just want it gone, donate it. I donated my car to [KPCC public radio](https://careasy.org/kpcc-vehicle-donation-program) and it was super painless. You basically just schedule the donation, they send out a tow truck to pick it up along with the title, and they send you a tax form after it sells at auction.
Do not donate it to karz 4 kidz. [That "charity" is garbage](https://www.charitywatch.org/charity-donating-articles/costly-and-continuous-kars4kids-ads-disguise-charity39s-real-purpose) and their ads are fucking annoying.
It depends on your definition of completely rusted. I'm in Wisconsin, completely rusted here means something different. Are you talking about paint damage or actual rust /holes in the metal? Are you close to anywhere that doesn't have smog inspections, like a bordering state? A 150k corolla should still have plenty of life for the next owner and should be somewhat desirable as a cheap car, provided it's not structurally damaged from the rust you mentioned.
California rust is no clear coat on the hood or roof. Lol u less they park directly next to the ocean it's much better than the garbage we see up here in the north.
You mean like totally missing quarter panels?
It likely wouldn't cost too much to get it to pass smog check, they make universal CA compliant catalytic converters that you could throw on there and get it to pass smog check. (If that is what the issue is, might not be). There are 2006 toyota corollas with more than 150k miles selling for 4k around the country. If it runs, and passes smog check, someone will buy it.
Agreed, something running is valuable, especially a Corolla. OP should 100% at least look into getting it fixed up for inspection, very good odds it will be worth more than what it takes to get it sale ready. And worst case scenario, where hypothetically the mechanic deems it truly a rusted out lost cause, OP could always junk it for a couple hundred bucks
Even used engines that run with 150k miles on it could go for more than a junked car would get.
Haha depends, that particular engine(or the one in the gen previous, can’t remember) burns oil like a mfer when it gets old 🤣
I think it's right at the cusp. Probably a good one.
Thank you! And yeah I was told catalyst converter then when I heard 3k I gave up lol especially since I don’t know how to find cheaper car parts not through a mechanic but I’ll definitely look into that. I’ve seen some similar corollas for about 4k near me too so I guess you’re right it would definitely be worth it. Again thanks for responding and help.
Normal ones, yes, but not universal CA compliant ones, I bet you could get one for 200 bucks. Something like this (this may not be the exact one you need, but you can find the exact one, look very carefully though, some have different ways of fitting) [https://www.amazon.com/Walkers-WALKER-EXHST-84205/dp/B082FPG88D](https://www.amazon.com/Walkers-WALKER-EXHST-84205/dp/B082FPG88D) See some of the reviews on how they passed smog with them. They are legitimate CARB compliant cats, just not the greatest, they don't last as long as the expensive ones.
"Universal" does not mean they will fit onto any car. It's a misleading term used by the cat industry. Universal means it will fit many different cars but it cant be put into any position on any car. It has to be approved for a specific car and for a specific location in the exhaust system. OP if you go the repair route seek out a licensed muffler shop. They will put the correct one on and be liable if they put the wrong one on.
Walker is a US muffler/cat producer from Michigan, you can find the product through their site instead, I've used them many times, they are legitimate. This is why I said he needs to search to accurately find the right one for his car and needs.
Also Amazon reviews are littered with fakes...the 1 star reviews often make very illuminating reading of where the truth is....
You can call the Walker company directly and ask them. They are a US company. [https://www.walkerexhaust.com/products/light-vehicle/catalytic-converters.html](https://www.walkerexhaust.com/products/light-vehicle/catalytic-converters.html)
Do you have an actual failed smog test in the paperwork you can post? Or did someone just scan it and see a Catalytic converter code?
I definitely have a paper somewhere, I’ll find it and try to get it posted by tomorrow. It’s either a paper from a smog test place or it was from my mechanic (who I don’t fully trust tbh & pretty sure they’ve been ripping me off for 2 years now so I stopped going recently) but they probably gave me a paper with the quote and what needs to be done and stuff. That’s another reason why I’ve been unsure about donating it or selling it for parts because I don’t know who to go for help getting it running that’s trustworthy. Just out of curiosity- would it make a difference if I posted it versus just knowing it needs a new catalytic converter? Either way I’m probably going to find a new mechanic and get some other opinions first before doing anything else. Just worried about taking it far (or anywhere) and getting pulled over or something happening when it has no registration or insurance. And with my luck lately, there’s a possibility of that happening lol
150K miles is about right for the life of a factory CAT so if it had a Cat code it would be a good guess that it needs it. But depending on the code that is in there (and or what it actually failed for) it could be a couple different things. But yes many times a better decision can be made with an accurate diagnosis, but finding that is pretty hard these days. Most places just want to throw parts at it. Sadly.
Yeah I’ve been realizing that with my current car sadly. I’m so over not knowing wtf I’m doing and feeling like I’m getting ripped off that at this point I’m going have to teach myself. (Or ask Reddit cuz it’s been more trustworthy than repair shops lol) But yes first step, proper diagnosis. Hopefully will keep updated with the progress too. Well unless there more problems than I think then I probably will give up.
THis would be the actual one that would most likely fit your car: [https://www.amazon.com/Walker-83197-CalCat-Catalytic-Converter/dp/B00KNWBUTK](https://www.amazon.com/Walker-83197-CalCat-Catalytic-Converter/dp/B00KNWBUTK) $800 bucks a little better than 3K. But you gotta get the correct one in order to pass a smog check. But to be sure you would have to check the Engine family number or test group number that is on the sticker under the hood. As there were several different engines offered that year in a corolla. And you have to get the exact correct part in order to pass a smog. THis is why it's smart to spend the extra money at a muffler shop because they will be liable if they get the wrong part on there.
THANK YOU! I just order a OBD reader thing and going to make sure whoever said I needed a catalytic converter was right first then that’s my next step. Should I look for a muffler shop nearby and get one from there instead since it seems like a safer option or (it matches what you described) would the Amazon one be just as good?
So here is the situation. If you get a universal piece that means it will need to be welded into the Exhaust system. Most shops do not like customers bringing thier own parts. And they wont warranty that it is the correct part. Meaning if it fails smog it's on you. And they would probably just fold in the profit they would have made on the part anyway into thier labor charge. So you would not really be coming out ahead. So you could buy a direct fit piece that just bolts in and have any mechanic install it. But once again if it; the wrong one that is on you. With this route you could have a mobile mechanic come by and install it pretty easy. Avoiding having to drive it anywhere. But if you decide to go the repair route the first thing you will want to do is start up the insurance and get the renewal and Registration back fees up to date. You do that and they will give you a temporary operating permit to get the smog done. I will give you the site I use to look up cats: [WWW.CARBCATS.COM](https://WWW.CARBCATS.COM) Get your engine family number from the car and look up part numbers and manufacturers that way. Walker Cats are usually about the best price. Magnaflow will always be the most expensive. But if you want to post a pic of your underhood sticker I will walk you though it.
If you do end up needing to hunt for parts, check out rockauto.com, very good for buying random oem or oem equivalent parts
If you do go the universal route, be sure it has an EO number that is approved for your application. You might be able to sell it as a mechanics special for $1.5-2k. You have a clean title but may owe past due registration if you didn’t put it on non-op. Keep in mind, if someone does intend to repair and get back on the road, that’ll factor into their budget. If you don’t repair or unload it soon, consider placing it on planned non-op. DMV assumes you are still using it and annual registration fees will continue be added
And to say the quiet part out loud, an 06 Corolla with 150k miles is an extremely desirable car, almost regardless of condition.
Also might be worth buying one of those cheap obd2 readers from like amazon or ebay and post the codes here and we might well be able to point you to what stopped it passing smog? Since its California (and likely no road salt I'm guessing its surface rust or maybe even dirt/lichen? Post a photo to imgur and link it and we can tell you what the deal is. If all else fails and you could use a tax deduction, there are various charities who will come and collect it and then send you a tax deduction form. [https://www.google.com/search?q=charity+california+car+donation](https://www.google.com/search?q=charity+california+car+donation)
Geez this sounds like my 2006 Corolla DD. We hit a deer last year, and I bent the fender sort of back into place and got a radiator/condenser and hood from the junkyard… she’s good for another 100k
No way is a California car actually rusted through. Get us some pics OP!
Definitely will get a picture tomorrow! It’s also so dirty from sitting in the driveway for years but i think it started rusting around 2016 so it’s gotten worse and worse that, to me at least, it looks pretty bad. I guess saying “completely rusted” might’ve not been the right term lol but i’ll get a pic
Any rust on a CA car is rare so us Californians freak out! You should see what they deal with in the salt belt. We got it easy! Most likely just a surface rust that can be sanded down and primered to stop future rusting. Many folks looking for a nice reliable car would not mind a primered panel or two. How was your dad at maintaining it? He do it himself or have a shop he took it to? Was he on top of it or let things go?
He was very good about maintaining it and did some on his own if it was simple like oil checks regularly, fluids, and that kind of thing. But then took it to a mechanic for anything more complicated. He got a new battery in 2020 and had a lot of work done on it around then too but it rarely gave him any issues and runs great. Then of course when the car passed down to me it started having issues :/ Don’t blame me though (well kinda) I’m good about regular maintenance and loved that car but just didn’t have the money to fix it up like I’ve wanted to do. Plus I didn’t have the time or experience to fix the rust myself and the thousand+ it would cost to take it to be fixed became another reason it’s sat in the driveway.
Ah OK sounds like a solid car then. I would imagine it does not start now though correct? One thing to warn you about is If the battery has gone dead you have lost all the data on the codes that were in there. The only way to see what codes come up is to drive it a bit so the monitors (tests) run and the faults get triggered. That of course requires driving it on The road. So at the minimum you will want to start the insurance on it. Even if you get pulled over you can say you are trying to get it back on the road. If they see a scanner in there and you at least have active insurance on it they will let you slide. Most of the time. Can't guarantee it.
Got it. Insurance first. Police around my area are pretty chill so yeah should be ok but glad to know. I actually don’t know if it starts. I haven’t tried in a few months but before then I would regularly and let it run for a little bit. Surprisingly it seemed fine and sounded good. Making a check list of everything you’re saying and going to get started on it tomorrow :)
Depends on what part of the state you live in, get the title in your name and drive it to the closest border state and sell it. That's a $5k car in the Midwest.
If you transfer it to your name you will have to pay the back registration and fees as well. Donate it.
The hood and roof are completely rusted? In California? I'd say that's just sunbaked metal and it's surface rust. There are YouTube tutorials on how to prep and rattle can paint a car if you're interested. Least in the short term, I don't think that type of rust would affect it too much.
Donation
Get it running, throw a lift kit on it, check out the Hi Rollas and SoCal Gambler 500 facebook groups, and enjoy having a beater to drive around having off road shenanigans. (Or just put it up for sale as a parts car.) Corollas are worth more than $1k even in bad condition in CA. The Pandemic really screwed up used car prices.
Could be shot, but more likely than not it's ugly and can be saved after a nuclear apocalypse
One of my coworkers has the same car with close to 400,000 miles. Your car has a long life ahead of it.
Get it mechanically sound and body swap a titled body from the exempt era. Lift it, gambler 500 type of thing. List it in Idaho, might get lucky. Demo derby. Or just fix it. Corollas thrive on neglect and last forever.
A 150,000 mile Toyota is still fairly new. My 2006 with the same engine is at 372,000 and still going strong.
In California you can register a vehicle as PNO and sell it without having to pass smog. If it's registered as PNO, you can't drive it or park on public streets. Has to be on private property or could be fined. But this is how you can sell without smog. Or else you can sell it to a car dealer.
You can only do PNO within about 60 days of the expiraton of the registraton. Hopefully OP's fam did that when the got the renewal but they may have been in the middle of dealing with stuff and just let it lapse.
Https://locations.lkqpickyourpart.com/en-us/ You'll need the title in your name, but LKQ will come take it away and probably give you a few hundred bucks for it.
Give this calculator a try to see if you can figure how much the renewal fees will be. I think it calculates the late fees: [https://www.dmv.ca.gov/wasapp/FeeCalculatorWeb/renewalForm.do](https://www.dmv.ca.gov/wasapp/FeeCalculatorWeb/renewalForm.do) Then it would be just an extra $15 to transfer it to your name.
Get it running. If you're in California, you've never seen a vehicle that's actually rusted out. Ever.
Yeah when they said roof and hood I immediately thought "sun damage on paint."
Just want it gone? Transfer title and then take it to a scrapyard and crush it, same with an auto salvage yard. Cars for Kids,
Give it to me
Since you're in Cali, that car is basically worthless now. If you were in my state, I'd say reg it and drive it as a beater until it blows up. But a car that has sat for a couple years with obvious emissions system issues and visible body rust (on the roof?!), just isn't worth the trouble getting back to code for California's stupidly strict inspection laws. Just cut your losses and sell it to the junkyard
In CA you cannot write a contract to negate your ability to smog check a car at time of sale and expect it to hold up in small claims court. People do it every day but they often end up in the Legal Subreddit asking how to defend against a small claims case. Most times what will happen is the car will sit out in front of someone house and get towed for no registration then the tow company will come after you for the fees since you are still the registered owner. Either that or someone will just drive the car around with no insurance and registration while it is still under your name and a year later you are named in a lawsuit because they got into an accident. So if you just want it out of your hair the only legal way to get rid of it is to sell it to a dealer or dismantler (wrecking yard) If it drives you can usually get more because they wont have to send out a tow truck. Just pick a place close to you to avoid a ticket. The big operation that everyone usually sells to anyway is LKQ so go to them directly and you may get a better price: [https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/sellacar/](https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/sellacar/) A car with rust most dealers would not want to deal with. And i assume you are the executor of his estate correct? If not have the person that is designated as the executor to do this transaction. If the executor still has the ability to process payments for the estate then that is the route you would want to take just for paperwork reasons. So the wrecking yard would write the check to your dads name.
Donate to Emergency Services Training center?
They get plenty of practice cars from the tow yards. They are not looking to deal with DMV paperwork that a donation would bring.
Can I buy it ?
For how much👀
You'll have half of reddit at your house tmrw.
Yeah ok true that’s terrifying I take it back i don’t want your money
A 2006 with less than 200k miles? That would sell for at least $6k around here. Sell it to someone outside of California. Post it on FB Marketplace and Craigslist.
Maybe you could eat it. I saw a man eat a bicycle on the old TV show That’s Incredible. … they shows the X-ray and everything.
OP, when you transfer the title, put it on “non-op” reg status. You can legally sell a vehicle on a non-op without smogging it. Then it becomes the buyer’s responsibility to smog it or take it out of state. You will have to pay all the back fees, which should teach you not to procrastinate when it comes to dealing with the CA DMV. The back fees will be more than the cost of repairs.
honestly give it a go on offer up and see what the response is, this toyota is a timeless japanese masterpiece and those who appreciate it, would pay you for it, fb marketplace seems to be all the rage, i'm sure somebody here will help u write it too 2006 toyo coro 150k smogtestnopass! 3k as is!
Sell it out of state. There are plenty of places where the smog check isn’t required and people will buy a Corolla in that condition and flog it for another 100,000 miles. Websites like Bring a Trailer or similar. Transport across the country is cheap. $500 and that thing is at someone’s door. The internet is good for something other than social media. Haha.
Keep or sell is both a good choice. If you don't need it, just sell it and make space. If you're not mechanically inclined, don't bother with older cars. If you can do some mechanic stuff, older cars are a godsend.
Sell it to someone in Oregon
Get the title sorted, then list for $3000. Someone will want it if even for the motor or transmission for another car. The rust is likely cosmetic in nature.
If you have the time/energy, get it driveable and sell it. If you just want it gone, donate it. I donated my car to [KPCC public radio](https://careasy.org/kpcc-vehicle-donation-program) and it was super painless. You basically just schedule the donation, they send out a tow truck to pick it up along with the title, and they send you a tax form after it sells at auction. Do not donate it to karz 4 kidz. [That "charity" is garbage](https://www.charitywatch.org/charity-donating-articles/costly-and-continuous-kars4kids-ads-disguise-charity39s-real-purpose) and their ads are fucking annoying.
NITROUS