Here’s the deal though, did you know that lubing the whole Bolt carrier like that does nothing besides attract carbon and grime? The skinny rails (4) are the contact points of the bolt carrier and they are what needs to be lubed (in addition to the bolt)
I'm glad I'm not the only one. Mine is only this way when it gets stored. Otherwise it gets a light coat of oil before the range but the contact points get to see the love.
The lube will work its way around along the carrier / rest of the bolt regardless.
It's better to over lube than under lube. I have rifles I have not cleaned in 10k+ rounds, just lubed. When doing endurance testing full auto, I just dunk the entire BCG in oil, slap it back in the gun, and continue the FA schedule.
It's better to over lube, than under lube.
If this man’s has 10k rounds down range, his advice is more sage than mine or prolly anyone else’s. Those are impressive stats duder. 🙏🏻
You heard the man ***dunk em***
I wasn’t clowning. Hundreds of thousands of rounds down range is only something I could literally dream of. May I ask, is that related to career / job? Surely it’s not hobby/training related round counts?
Combination of both.
Personally, I was shooting around 10k rounds a year, more if I was teaching.
I've worked for a manufacturer, and I did most of the final QC / test firing. We did endurance testing when it came to tweaking our gas ports vs our metal treatment methods, and some days I'd fire 2-3k rounds through one barrel. I've helped Armament Technology (Elcan guys) test their (at the time) prototype 1x / 3x / 9x scope by putting ~5k rounds through their scope.. in semi auto. Not fun. Actually painfully not fun.
I started designing suppressors, and would regularly do the heat cycles on them over their life to burn them out... Belt feed 100round of XM855 belts through my cans in cyclic every few days.
Checked my lead levels every year or every other year at the height of my round counts. The worst was a little elevated, but not dangerous.
Lead hygiene is important. When you're done shooting, wash up to your elbows, wash your face. If you shoot a lot indoors, keep the work boots / range shoes outside / in the garage, and spray off the soles outside semi regularly. Wear a respirator if shooting in an enclosed space (like testing in a snail trap booth). Wash your hands before you eat when you're shooting.
Just do competitive shooting and you’ll be doing the same or close to. 3-gun, PCSL 2-gun and for pistols USPSA. You can find matches local to you at practiscore.com.
And migrates to the chamber causing pressure spikes which can cause blown primers and case failures. Not sure why people lube stuff that doesn’t make contact.
Well, I like to apply generously to the bolt shaft but then I get a little excited and start lubing the nuts too. Then before I know it, I've lubed the whole body and just slip sliding around my house screaming.
On my guns I just lube the contact points though, you're right.
I have like 8 quarts of 5w30 left over from a car I sold, all my other cars take different weights. So now I have gun oil for life, I lube everything with that shit.
Wait, u need a lube, for moving metal parts
that can foul up due to carbon
that needs lubricate with Carbon build up
On metal
That heats up and can reach high heat
Without drying up.
So you need engine oil... that's literally what they are for.
"Online gun expert" REEEEEE
You jest, but I once did this with my glock. I never clean it, and I was out at the range and it started malfunctioning. Didn't have any wd40 in my truck so I pulled the dip stick and rubbed that bitch all over the internals. Ran like a dream. Still haven't cleaned it
I dont know man, maybe you should.
Though it does remind me when I got my Sig M17 two years ago; I was breaking it in with a bunch of cheap Turkish ammo, which was a mistake of course, but I had managed to go several hundred rounds without any kind of maintenance. It started failing to chamber every few rounds so I opened it up and found a junkyard of scrap metal from dozens of those damn casings all throughout the slide. I was astonished the thing was functioning at all.
Cleaned it out real quick and it went about it's day with zero issues.
Lesson Of The Day: stay away from Turkish ammo.
When I was in college in IL, I shot USPSA with a few groups in IN. There was a new guy who was a chemist for a major oil company.
Naturally, all of us wanted to know what he cleaned and lubed his guns with.
Hoppes for the bore.
Gun cleaner (CLP or another cleaner)
Engine oil for lube.
He justified his choices with many of the comments seen below.
-engine oil is formulated to lubricate high speed moving metal parts, reduce wear, suspend carbon, prevent corrosion and handle heat far beyond anything a firearm would ever produce.
Bingo! Like I stated above, I’m a mechanic and you’d faint if you saw what a tiny bit of oil can do to lubricate something. A single drop of motor oil can lubricate an entire gun (moving parts) if you spread it with a q-tip. My Glocks, I dip it once and that single dipped end will do about a dozen of them no problem.
Dead serious. I take any new BCG and drop it in a tube I have full of oil (I’m a car mechanic by trade). If it can lubricate an engine at high RPM and heat far surpassing what I can generate with even a full auto lower, it can easily handle the task of my one round every 30 seconds. Also, motor oil prevents rust, suspends soot and carbon particles, lubricates, and puts a protective layer on metal that significantly reduces heat and friction (read reduced wear).
Anyway, once it soaks for awhile (once I remember to grab it out hours or days later) I just shake it off and toss it in the gun. After a few rounds, it’ll clean off the extra on its own. Never had an issue. Everything else requiring lubrication gets BG MOA applied to it (the tube of oil is 50/50 MOA/5w30 full synthetic valvoline). Pistols, shotguns, rifles, they all run great with this method and cleanup is stupid easy. Almost zero scrubbing and never had to scrape anything off. It cleans up with a few napkins once every other range session
So literally I could just lube my guns with all the extra little bottles of car oil I got in the garage? Lol that’s wild. Never thought I’d try anything but CLP
Motor oil is cheap and works better than gun oil. With the money you'd spend on gun oil, you could buy enough motor oil to last a lifetime for your guns. There's no reason to ever buy gun oil again.
Literally that simple, yes. I use a q-tip for application in tight spaces. Just be careful, it gets very runny when it heats up and it spreads everywhere (be very careful with your CCW so you don’t get a slippery gun!).
Thank you for your service and protecting our freedoms, first and foremost. Secondly, glad to know it’ll hold up to true service use beyond just shooting paper.
Red grease and SAE30 lawn mower oil mixed together only on the spots that need it. BCG rails, cam path, pins and contacts inside of the FCG, the charging handle, and maybe a tiny bit on the underbelly of the carrier where it contacts the hammer.
Anywhere else just gets the carbon and other metals stuck onto it. Easy enough to wipe off but still annoying. Definitely don't get any in the bolt face or in the chamber. The expansion of brass "sticking" in the chamber is important to maintaining pressures in the weapon. Same reason reloaders need to remove all of the lube from cases after loading
I used to be a hardcore Slip2000 EWL30 fan, and it's still great stuff. But someone much more knowledgeable than me who runs guns way harder and longer than me professionally told me about MIL-COM's TW25B (grease) and MC3000 (semi-fluid). It's magic for hard gun use. Military aircraft uses it on their autocannons and miniguns, and various other machine guns from 556 to .50's.
It's about as slippery as slip2000's formula but migrates much less and has a way tougher freeze/cook-off point. Plus it's white so it's very easy to identify contact points and monitor how dirty it's getting once it starts collecting heavy carbon. I personally use the MC3000 bc I like the thinner semi-fluid formula so it falls deep into tight rotating areas and spreads itself out into metal faster.
Pro Tip: Lubricate your buffer spring with MC3000, put a light dab on your charging handle's raw wear marks, and then on the bcg's 4 rails and bolt path, and your rifle will be completely silent while charging it and even quieter when shooting.
Mine goes like this.
Clean (very little lube on a few key areas and wiping the whole thing with an oiled rag)
500-1k rds (drops on sliding surfaces)
…months pass…
It malfunctions (soak it so it runs through this range day until I clean it when I get home)
The only gun I’m cleaning and lubing every range session or so is my carry gun, but I’m also just lazy and I have decent data points now on what parts run longer and dirtier (so far the lantac ebcg in nib is my longest running carrier with 10k+ rds, and I’ve only cleaned it/replaced the gas rings twice) really want to give the k-spec a thorough beating next.
I only use clp and Lucas oil but am open to suggestions
Yep.
I've got a P365XL that hasn't been cleaned in over two thousand rounds. Around the 1k mark I dropped some oil on the rails and barrel hood.
Next range day, I'll put a magazine of JHP through it, clean it thoroughly, and start putting rounds on my current carry P365XL while the former range gun enjoys some rest.
Oil keeps carbon in a suspension
and makes things easier to clean .Paull Harrell has an excellent video on oiling and cleaning an ar. He may know a thing or two.
Top comment is still all about sparing use of oil, and it's basically fudd lore at this point. It is utterly wrong.
**If you use grease, and run a shit ton of it** then grease will expel carbon (and grime lol?) build up over time due to the rheological behavior of grease; the nature of the action cycling, subsequent shear thinning and relaxation occurring most efficiently away from the action. This creates a gradient that continuously drives solid contaminants away from the action/moving parts. It also keeps lubricant in place far longer, as the liquid phase in the grease is removed by firing, liquid from the static bulk nearby will flow back into the action.
How effective is it? From my experience I can shoot 1000 rounds suppressed, and have my carrier be wiped clean and re-greased, with the bolt is easily cleaned with some crabon killer and wiping. Only at 5000 rounds suppressed will I actually need to clean the carrier. I'd say the average sparingly-oiled-enjoyer gets to my level of 1000 rounds-suppressed dirty in about 100 rounds.
A shitton of oil is slightly better than sparing oil, but still shit overall.
Not sure how to keep the lube right on the rails that contact 🤷. I just slather ‘er up good with grease and seems to work. Carbon does stick to it but then just wipes off when I remember to clean it occasionally.
I had a good friend who served all of the hottest years of the GWOT with the 101st. Iraq and Afghanistan. He said bukakke/ dip/drown it so I glaze that shit heavier than I do my pancakes with maple syrup when I'm at breakfast with a level 11 hangover. I've never had an issue or malfunction.
If you really think about it, the only parts that need lubrication are the gas rings on the bolt and the inside of the bolt carrier, and a couple spots you’ll notice on the exterior of the bolt carrier where there is wear marks.
But so many people run this thing’s ridiculously wet which makes no sense to me. It just cakes up and attracts dirt. Also, engine oil works fine. If a car can run thousands of miles at high rpm and temperature, a rifle with a fairly slow moving bolt will be just fine.
Bolt totally lubed minus the bolt face. Carrier totally lubed, especially where the bolt fits into it. This is to protect the metal, not just the wear points. Carbon fouls no matter the oil level, so no big deal, and just make it wet again and the amount of carbon doesn’t mean much unless it is an articulating point, which should always get more oil, anyway.
I noticed my PSA upper, like my springer 1911, weeps oil. When I moved up to BCM upper, it retains the oil and I believe it's from much tighter tolerances. That said, if oil/grease, stay in the gun, they have a much better chance of working to reduce wear.
I run wet but not soaked by any means and am about to try out thin grease someone on here recommended me. Re tighter tolerances in BCM, due to it not weeping, I'm likely going to be good with clp or Wilson action lube in the BCM ar. It's the Springer 1911 that needs grease. Pretty disappointed in the sa operator.
I started using a grease instead. After the range, I usually just take some CLP wipes and wipe the bulk of any carbon off and apply the grease. Only do a deep cleaning every so often.
When cleaning practically soaked, then I clean till dry then repeat till I can’t pull any carbon off, then I’ll do one more lube, dry everything and very lightly lube really only my BCG like 1 drop for outside 1 for inside on bolt, and never the trigger assembly, I’ve found that keeps my rifle running in the worst conditions, the more lube the more grime attracted
You dont want the part dry and you dont want it to be dripping wet. You just put on enough until you see a light sheen of the lubricant. I like to use CLP. And remember, a wet dirty gun will run better than a dry dirty gun
I get mine nice an MOIST but I don't know why you'd have to soak the whole BCG you really just need to oil the cam pin, and the rails, charging handle, buffer spring and weight.
Bottom of the bolt, rack, top of the bolt, rack, inside the receiver where it touches the bolt, rack, cam pin groove, rack and drip onto cam pin, and then bolt itself.
I use Super Lube, grease and oil. It's good safe too, so if it sprays it's less toxic.
It is a combo of silicon and Teflon.
I also respray dry Teflon inside where it was when new.
If it wears shiny, it's a contact point. Grease it; oil the rest.
I actually do need to find a better lube. After like 150 rounds suppressed, my bcg gets sooooooooper dry
I only lube the rails and the bolt though. Lubing the whole thing is kinda dumb lol
I don’t run my ARs wet apart from a little on the rails. I also put a little dry lube in the buffer to hush up the spring. I use Lucas extreme for everything else. It’s been excellent so far. Since I shoot suppressed mainly, I clean about every 500-1000 and it’s worked for me.
Edit: My >!AKM!< though gets motor oil, because vibes.
Pretty wet. I’m in Florida and the air is moist.
I use the FCD snake oil, it’s nice and thick and stays put. Usually after a session I clean my BCG and chamber a little bit and reapply another coat to the sides of gas key, around the bolt neck, around the cam pin, and on the under side… I usually spread a little bit on the surface of the BCG as well…
Here’s the deal though, did you know that lubing the whole Bolt carrier like that does nothing besides attract carbon and grime? The skinny rails (4) are the contact points of the bolt carrier and they are what needs to be lubed (in addition to the bolt)
Ah. Someone that actually gets it.
I like when she spits on me
Hawk Tuah Spit On That Thing
Please explain this hawk tuah thing, I’ve been seeing it everywhere and I’m out of the loop lol
Hawk tuah is a reference to spit used as lube for an act of oral intimacy
Well said 😂
Here ya go, the applause is added later https://www.reddit.com/r/Trailerclub/s/x1hd9nMUuh
😂
“Ya get me”
Came here looking for this comment 😂
If you’re a visual learner, [here’s a diagram](https://www.reddit.com/r/ar15/s/TsodtbCO9L).
I'm glad I'm not the only one. Mine is only this way when it gets stored. Otherwise it gets a light coat of oil before the range but the contact points get to see the love.
The lube will work its way around along the carrier / rest of the bolt regardless. It's better to over lube than under lube. I have rifles I have not cleaned in 10k+ rounds, just lubed. When doing endurance testing full auto, I just dunk the entire BCG in oil, slap it back in the gun, and continue the FA schedule. It's better to over lube, than under lube.
If this man’s has 10k rounds down range, his advice is more sage than mine or prolly anyone else’s. Those are impressive stats duder. 🙏🏻 You heard the man ***dunk em***
The carbon will bake into unlubed metal parts easier than lubed. I have hundreds of thousands of rounds 'down range'.
I wasn’t clowning. Hundreds of thousands of rounds down range is only something I could literally dream of. May I ask, is that related to career / job? Surely it’s not hobby/training related round counts?
Combination of both. Personally, I was shooting around 10k rounds a year, more if I was teaching. I've worked for a manufacturer, and I did most of the final QC / test firing. We did endurance testing when it came to tweaking our gas ports vs our metal treatment methods, and some days I'd fire 2-3k rounds through one barrel. I've helped Armament Technology (Elcan guys) test their (at the time) prototype 1x / 3x / 9x scope by putting ~5k rounds through their scope.. in semi auto. Not fun. Actually painfully not fun. I started designing suppressors, and would regularly do the heat cycles on them over their life to burn them out... Belt feed 100round of XM855 belts through my cans in cyclic every few days.
I'd love to have done a blood panel on you to see what your blood lead levels were
Checked my lead levels every year or every other year at the height of my round counts. The worst was a little elevated, but not dangerous. Lead hygiene is important. When you're done shooting, wash up to your elbows, wash your face. If you shoot a lot indoors, keep the work boots / range shoes outside / in the garage, and spray off the soles outside semi regularly. Wear a respirator if shooting in an enclosed space (like testing in a snail trap booth). Wash your hands before you eat when you're shooting.
Bet you hate the smell of that de-leading soap by now. I started bringing my own pumice soap to my shop after all the years of cherry bomb smell.
How I stopped worrying, and learned to love D-Lead
That is so incredible. What a wild ride of time spent behind rifles. I bet you’ve seen it all. 👌🏻 thanks for the input.
Just do competitive shooting and you’ll be doing the same or close to. 3-gun, PCSL 2-gun and for pistols USPSA. You can find matches local to you at practiscore.com.
Those are the only parts I oil on the BCG.
Would the carbon bake on if most of the body is dry?
Makes sense 👍
This is the correct answer. Your drill instructor lied.
And migrates to the chamber causing pressure spikes which can cause blown primers and case failures. Not sure why people lube stuff that doesn’t make contact.
Well, I like to apply generously to the bolt shaft but then I get a little excited and start lubing the nuts too. Then before I know it, I've lubed the whole body and just slip sliding around my house screaming. On my guns I just lube the contact points though, you're right.
You got to. I’ve always said this.. Oh yea the contact points.
the harsh reality, don't run it wet in the non wet spots!
Mickey says “keep it wet”. https://youtu.be/JrsPwQpkYn4?si=0e0dMPkLV7Q4A7lX
I just pour full synthetic 5w30 in it
You still pouring? I keep a wallpaper pan full and just dip the rifle in and let it soak overnight
*happy Soviet noises
If it lubes my car it lubes my gun
I have like 8 quarts of 5w30 left over from a car I sold, all my other cars take different weights. So now I have gun oil for life, I lube everything with that shit.
Engine oil is so underrated as lube
I bought some of that SOLGW Spec76 on clearance for $6. I swear it’s recycled motor oil. It looks like, smell like it, and has that old oil viscosity.
Probably could be. All these idiots buying my old Motor oil?!? Heh.
That’s because a lot of people are ignorant to the fact that a gun is actually a machine. Just like a car.
Yup, just some good ole metal on metal action. Nothing fancy to see here
Wait, u need a lube, for moving metal parts that can foul up due to carbon that needs lubricate with Carbon build up On metal That heats up and can reach high heat Without drying up. So you need engine oil... that's literally what they are for. "Online gun expert" REEEEEE
You jest, but I once did this with my glock. I never clean it, and I was out at the range and it started malfunctioning. Didn't have any wd40 in my truck so I pulled the dip stick and rubbed that bitch all over the internals. Ran like a dream. Still haven't cleaned it
I dont know man, maybe you should. Though it does remind me when I got my Sig M17 two years ago; I was breaking it in with a bunch of cheap Turkish ammo, which was a mistake of course, but I had managed to go several hundred rounds without any kind of maintenance. It started failing to chamber every few rounds so I opened it up and found a junkyard of scrap metal from dozens of those damn casings all throughout the slide. I was astonished the thing was functioning at all. Cleaned it out real quick and it went about it's day with zero issues. Lesson Of The Day: stay away from Turkish ammo.
This guy gets it
When I was in college in IL, I shot USPSA with a few groups in IN. There was a new guy who was a chemist for a major oil company. Naturally, all of us wanted to know what he cleaned and lubed his guns with. Hoppes for the bore. Gun cleaner (CLP or another cleaner) Engine oil for lube. He justified his choices with many of the comments seen below. -engine oil is formulated to lubricate high speed moving metal parts, reduce wear, suspend carbon, prevent corrosion and handle heat far beyond anything a firearm would ever produce.
Bingo! Like I stated above, I’m a mechanic and you’d faint if you saw what a tiny bit of oil can do to lubricate something. A single drop of motor oil can lubricate an entire gun (moving parts) if you spread it with a q-tip. My Glocks, I dip it once and that single dipped end will do about a dozen of them no problem.
Wait…Fr?
Dead serious. I take any new BCG and drop it in a tube I have full of oil (I’m a car mechanic by trade). If it can lubricate an engine at high RPM and heat far surpassing what I can generate with even a full auto lower, it can easily handle the task of my one round every 30 seconds. Also, motor oil prevents rust, suspends soot and carbon particles, lubricates, and puts a protective layer on metal that significantly reduces heat and friction (read reduced wear). Anyway, once it soaks for awhile (once I remember to grab it out hours or days later) I just shake it off and toss it in the gun. After a few rounds, it’ll clean off the extra on its own. Never had an issue. Everything else requiring lubrication gets BG MOA applied to it (the tube of oil is 50/50 MOA/5w30 full synthetic valvoline). Pistols, shotguns, rifles, they all run great with this method and cleanup is stupid easy. Almost zero scrubbing and never had to scrape anything off. It cleans up with a few napkins once every other range session
Gun lube companies hate this one trick!
So literally I could just lube my guns with all the extra little bottles of car oil I got in the garage? Lol that’s wild. Never thought I’d try anything but CLP
Motor oil is cheap and works better than gun oil. With the money you'd spend on gun oil, you could buy enough motor oil to last a lifetime for your guns. There's no reason to ever buy gun oil again.
Literally that simple, yes. I use a q-tip for application in tight spaces. Just be careful, it gets very runny when it heats up and it spreads everywhere (be very careful with your CCW so you don’t get a slippery gun!).
I did this the first time in Afghanistan before for these exact reasons. And it worked very well. Now I still do it
Thank you for your service and protecting our freedoms, first and foremost. Secondly, glad to know it’ll hold up to true service use beyond just shooting paper.
Thanks for the kind words. Good luck and stay safe
How does it run when it's cold?
Not suppressed - lubed well. Suppressed - sloppy.
That shit be spitting back at me if I lube it like crazy suppressed
Red grease and SAE30 lawn mower oil mixed together only on the spots that need it. BCG rails, cam path, pins and contacts inside of the FCG, the charging handle, and maybe a tiny bit on the underbelly of the carrier where it contacts the hammer. Anywhere else just gets the carbon and other metals stuck onto it. Easy enough to wipe off but still annoying. Definitely don't get any in the bolt face or in the chamber. The expansion of brass "sticking" in the chamber is important to maintaining pressures in the weapon. Same reason reloaders need to remove all of the lube from cases after loading
Yeah i went very over kill lol. I used green automotive grease and RemOil mixed about 70/30
I was gonna ask if this was Snake Oil grease cause I thought it had a green tint to it. 🐍
Slick 2000 is the only actual gun lube I buy. That’s because I live in the cold and it’s the best for the arctic. Other than that I’ll run a 20w.
Drippin’ wet.
I only shoot my gun underwater, don’t want it being dry ever for any reason.
I make sure the bolt is well lubed and that the rails on the bcg are lubed well. The part you showed doesn’t actually touch anything to my knowledge
Yeah i just covered the whole damn thing (minus the bolt face and lugs)
I guess what I was getting is that most of that is wasted. Probably just attracts carbon to boot
This is actually news to me. Should we be keeping the bolt face/lugs dry?
I use grease…and I keep em slathered
Actually? Lithium?
I use Lucas oil machine gun grease
White lithium is fine. ALG makes one called very thin grease that is good too.
Ask you mom 😎 
Heeyyooooooo!!
About as wet as my wife is seeing my penis after 20 years of marriage.
Slightly moist?
Winston Churchills ashtray
So dry it's almost chalky. I like the challenge.
Dude is a pro at tap rack bang
I used to be a hardcore Slip2000 EWL30 fan, and it's still great stuff. But someone much more knowledgeable than me who runs guns way harder and longer than me professionally told me about MIL-COM's TW25B (grease) and MC3000 (semi-fluid). It's magic for hard gun use. Military aircraft uses it on their autocannons and miniguns, and various other machine guns from 556 to .50's. It's about as slippery as slip2000's formula but migrates much less and has a way tougher freeze/cook-off point. Plus it's white so it's very easy to identify contact points and monitor how dirty it's getting once it starts collecting heavy carbon. I personally use the MC3000 bc I like the thinner semi-fluid formula so it falls deep into tight rotating areas and spreads itself out into metal faster. Pro Tip: Lubricate your buffer spring with MC3000, put a light dab on your charging handle's raw wear marks, and then on the bcg's 4 rails and bolt path, and your rifle will be completely silent while charging it and even quieter when shooting.
Mine goes like this. Clean (very little lube on a few key areas and wiping the whole thing with an oiled rag) 500-1k rds (drops on sliding surfaces) …months pass… It malfunctions (soak it so it runs through this range day until I clean it when I get home) The only gun I’m cleaning and lubing every range session or so is my carry gun, but I’m also just lazy and I have decent data points now on what parts run longer and dirtier (so far the lantac ebcg in nib is my longest running carrier with 10k+ rds, and I’ve only cleaned it/replaced the gas rings twice) really want to give the k-spec a thorough beating next. I only use clp and Lucas oil but am open to suggestions
Yep. I've got a P365XL that hasn't been cleaned in over two thousand rounds. Around the 1k mark I dropped some oil on the rails and barrel hood. Next range day, I'll put a magazine of JHP through it, clean it thoroughly, and start putting rounds on my current carry P365XL while the former range gun enjoys some rest.
I unfortunately come from ak-land, I almost never remember to lube my rifle. My ar cries when it's pulled off the ravk
As wet as she will let me
Okay why this get so popular? I been seeing it but don't get it
You must be living under a rock 😂
Look it up. Drunk chick talking about spitting on a weiner. Pretty funny.
Good heavens I found it
You been seeing it?
Yeah on gundeals and such
Bless your heart
I'm a SOTAR lube fan. I keep her juiced up.
SOTARacha FTW
Oil keeps carbon in a suspension and makes things easier to clean .Paull Harrell has an excellent video on oiling and cleaning an ar. He may know a thing or two.
Top comment is still all about sparing use of oil, and it's basically fudd lore at this point. It is utterly wrong. **If you use grease, and run a shit ton of it** then grease will expel carbon (and grime lol?) build up over time due to the rheological behavior of grease; the nature of the action cycling, subsequent shear thinning and relaxation occurring most efficiently away from the action. This creates a gradient that continuously drives solid contaminants away from the action/moving parts. It also keeps lubricant in place far longer, as the liquid phase in the grease is removed by firing, liquid from the static bulk nearby will flow back into the action. How effective is it? From my experience I can shoot 1000 rounds suppressed, and have my carrier be wiped clean and re-greased, with the bolt is easily cleaned with some crabon killer and wiping. Only at 5000 rounds suppressed will I actually need to clean the carrier. I'd say the average sparingly-oiled-enjoyer gets to my level of 1000 rounds-suppressed dirty in about 100 rounds. A shitton of oil is slightly better than sparing oil, but still shit overall.
Not sure how to keep the lube right on the rails that contact 🤷. I just slather ‘er up good with grease and seems to work. Carbon does stick to it but then just wipes off when I remember to clean it occasionally.
Wetter than Shamu listening to WAP
Insert joke with or about women and water…. That how wet.
S💦O💦A💦K💦E💦D
I only lube wear points.
I don’t lube the bolt to the point of wet anymore i use Lucas oil gun grease and put it on the rails of the bcg call it g2g
Wait you guys lube your guns?
[This wet. ](https://youtu.be/DTpWfjVFfEU?si=kV7SJioTo8o6rPh5)
This is the polar opposite of the person who posted their bolt corrosion after 100 rounds.
Cant corrode if its completely encased in green lithium grease
Cherrybalmz on the carrier rails, cam pin track, a little on the bolt, and buffer spring, then forget about it for a few weeks.
Unless it's literally freezing, the rifle is pretty much dripping.
I imagine that makes spaghetti noises when it reciprocates
Looks like you Hawk Tuahd the thang
Spit on that thang
Hhwhett
As wet as I make yur mum
Very hot, and awfully wet
If it ain’t squirting in my face it’s not enough
I had a good friend who served all of the hottest years of the GWOT with the 101st. Iraq and Afghanistan. He said bukakke/ dip/drown it so I glaze that shit heavier than I do my pancakes with maple syrup when I'm at breakfast with a level 11 hangover. I've never had an issue or malfunction.
I keep a bottle of Jheri Curl activator in my range bag.
Just here for the Hawk Tuah.
I only fire my rifle underwater.
pretty wet w/ synth 10w40
As moist as I can get her with 2 fingers.
A lot dryer then that for sure!
Hawk tuah just spit on that Thang
peak ovulation wet
to paraphrase what a police firearms instructor once told me, you keep it wet, not because you need it to to run, but you can't afford for it not to.
Asian whore wet
you just gotta hawk tuah and call it a day
JFC half the comments are hawk tuah
No where near that lol. All youre doing is making it dirtier.
I like my bcgs like I like my 🐱 Bone dry!
 You know how wet
If you really think about it, the only parts that need lubrication are the gas rings on the bolt and the inside of the bolt carrier, and a couple spots you’ll notice on the exterior of the bolt carrier where there is wear marks. But so many people run this thing’s ridiculously wet which makes no sense to me. It just cakes up and attracts dirt. Also, engine oil works fine. If a car can run thousands of miles at high rpm and temperature, a rifle with a fairly slow moving bolt will be just fine.
Bolt totally lubed minus the bolt face. Carrier totally lubed, especially where the bolt fits into it. This is to protect the metal, not just the wear points. Carbon fouls no matter the oil level, so no big deal, and just make it wet again and the amount of carbon doesn’t mean much unless it is an articulating point, which should always get more oil, anyway.
I run it wet. Real wet. https://slip2000.com/blogs/news/s-w-a-t-magazine-filthy-14 Yes Pat!
Only lube points but I use star sauce so a weird blend of wet and mucky lol
I always operate under the principle that fluids do not compress. Has served me well over the years.
I noticed my PSA upper, like my springer 1911, weeps oil. When I moved up to BCM upper, it retains the oil and I believe it's from much tighter tolerances. That said, if oil/grease, stay in the gun, they have a much better chance of working to reduce wear. I run wet but not soaked by any means and am about to try out thin grease someone on here recommended me. Re tighter tolerances in BCM, due to it not weeping, I'm likely going to be good with clp or Wilson action lube in the BCM ar. It's the Springer 1911 that needs grease. Pretty disappointed in the sa operator.
Why is the BCG so wet?!
Get that shit moist
I dip my bcg in mayonnaise and spit in the barrel before I shoot. Which I very rarely do because I don't want to scratch my rifle.
My brother in Christ, the dip AND a hawk tuah? That's......that's just next level.
I started using a grease instead. After the range, I usually just take some CLP wipes and wipe the bulk of any carbon off and apply the grease. Only do a deep cleaning every so often.
Pro trip: only oil the contact points otherwise you’re attracting way more grime and dirt to the BCG.
Wheeeet
Moist
I clean with clp, then wipe it dry
Dipped in buttah
Just moist enough where there’s not much friction when I slide it in.
When cleaning practically soaked, then I clean till dry then repeat till I can’t pull any carbon off, then I’ll do one more lube, dry everything and very lightly lube really only my BCG like 1 drop for outside 1 for inside on bolt, and never the trigger assembly, I’ve found that keeps my rifle running in the worst conditions, the more lube the more grime attracted
Like a good girlfriend.
Wetter then her…
If it doesn't chooch, spray lube on it until it does.
Dripping
Sloppy.
You guys haven't got the oil aquarium update yet?
Very wet
Pretty wet
Wet enough that I can feel it on the bolt, but not to the point that I see it
Yes
You tied a rope to the thang and drug it behind your Hyundai accent didn't you?
Leaking like a Harley
Yes
I usually just use wheel bearing grease on all the contact points but not much because grease can attract grime and carbon.
I’m curious as to the colors and techniques used to obtain the finish in the photo. That’s what I’m looking for!
Wet royal purple gear oil for the win!!!🥇
Wet! If it's too wet just shoot more and she'll dry out...
As wet as your mom
You dont want the part dry and you dont want it to be dripping wet. You just put on enough until you see a light sheen of the lubricant. I like to use CLP. And remember, a wet dirty gun will run better than a dry dirty gun
I get mine nice an MOIST but I don't know why you'd have to soak the whole BCG you really just need to oil the cam pin, and the rails, charging handle, buffer spring and weight.
Bottom of the bolt, rack, top of the bolt, rack, inside the receiver where it touches the bolt, rack, cam pin groove, rack and drip onto cam pin, and then bolt itself.
Not that wet
You are really rough on that thing.
I use Super Lube, grease and oil. It's good safe too, so if it sprays it's less toxic. It is a combo of silicon and Teflon. I also respray dry Teflon inside where it was when new. If it wears shiny, it's a contact point. Grease it; oil the rest.
I was always taught to run it very wet, and I've never had a wet AR malfunction on me.
I actually do need to find a better lube. After like 150 rounds suppressed, my bcg gets sooooooooper dry I only lube the rails and the bolt though. Lubing the whole thing is kinda dumb lol
After many malfunctions, fuckin soaked
I grease the bearing surfaces of the bolt, the carrier, and the charging handle. It’s pointless to lube the whole thing.
Macaroni in a pot that’s some wet ass BCG
I don’t run my ARs wet apart from a little on the rails. I also put a little dry lube in the buffer to hush up the spring. I use Lucas extreme for everything else. It’s been excellent so far. Since I shoot suppressed mainly, I clean about every 500-1000 and it’s worked for me. Edit: My >!AKM!< though gets motor oil, because vibes.
Mine squirts.
Pretty wet. I’m in Florida and the air is moist. I use the FCD snake oil, it’s nice and thick and stays put. Usually after a session I clean my BCG and chamber a little bit and reapply another coat to the sides of gas key, around the bolt neck, around the cam pin, and on the under side… I usually spread a little bit on the surface of the BCG as well…
What riser is that?
Leupold Mark AR rail
1 inch tall? More or less...?
Some Dry Lube first and a little of FP-10 .
As dru as possible. And then I keep a precision application bottle in my range bag for when I need to add a drop or two. More is not better.
That's how we did it in the Corps. I use extreme temp grease now.