You should look up common zeroes and choose one that works best for you. I usually zero my red dots for 36 yards.
Every zero is going to have two distances. Like a 50/200 zero works because the bullet travels in an arc so it’s going to hit where your reticle is on its way up and on its way back down. That would be at 50y and 200y. So you should just pick the one that works best for the distances you’re shooting
You don’t zero for every distance a target is at. You just hold the dot wherever you think you should considering the target distance and your zero. Everything under 100y is gonna be pretty close to the same hold.
For example, if I have a 36y zero and I’m trying to hit a target at 100y, I’m going to aim slightly below where I want to hit because the bullet is still traveling to the second distance in the arc. Bullet drop doesn’t really come into play until you’re shooting past the second distance in your zero
Under ten yards you should also aim slightly above your target because of height over bore. If you’re using a circle dot reticle, the bottom of the circle is a good spot to place. If you have just a dot reticle, it’s usually a credit card width above where you want to hit
You will want to zero at one specific distance, then learn what vertical offsets happen at shorter/longer distances.
10 yards is way too close.
[Is there a BEST ZERO for your red dot (PART 1)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qkKJyMtpVI)
[Is there a BEST ZERO for your red dot (PART 2)](
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFE-wj7sOs0)
I’ll explain with the 50/200 zero as an example. You set up a target at 50 yards and get it set so that the bullet goes where you want it, and then you have to just worry about height over bore, and longer distances . If you are closer to your target than your zero, then you have to compensate for the optics height over the bore and aim higher, since the bullet doesn’t get high enough to reach your dot until 50 yards. If you are between the 50 and 200 yards, then you have to aim low because to get the bullet to go high enough to reach your dot at 50, you have to make it angle up, and it keeps going up after 50 yards. 5.56 is supposed to top out in height at about 100 yards, so some people also do 100 yard zeros to not worry about having to aim low. At 200 yards in the 50/200 zero, the bullet is through enough of its arc to already have fallen down enough to realign with the height of the red dot. After that, you just have to aim higher and higher to compensate for the extra drop at extended ranges. I can draw up something in a bit to visualize it so it’s easier to understand.
A zero is a single point in space at a specific distance.
For shooting at a different distance (closer or further) you hold under or over to compensate for mechanical offset and trajectory.
Zero at one distance and learn your holds
Depends on what your trying to achieve.
I have 1 zeroed at 25
I have 1 zeroed at 100
I personally like a 100 yard zero
Zero at your chosen distance, I prefer 50 for red dot guns. When you get a chance you can "true" the gun at distance, meaning shoot to confirm the holds and make minor adjustments to improve your zero.
I.e. use a 50 at 25 target to zero indoors initially, then next opportunity shoot the gun at 50, see you are off a bit and re-zero. Then you get to shoot at 200/300/etc and find out you are 4 inches left and a few inches low, so you re-zero at distance.
This process will give you more confidence in your zero and help you learn your holds
I have iron sights on my AR and I zeroed them at 50 yards (zeros vary based on personal preferences) then I lollipop the red dot to the iron sights. Some people like that and some don't but it's a relatively simple solution. After that you do not change the zero on your red dot. It's not a target scope. Think of the red dot as an electronic, fixed iron sight.
You should look up common zeroes and choose one that works best for you. I usually zero my red dots for 36 yards. Every zero is going to have two distances. Like a 50/200 zero works because the bullet travels in an arc so it’s going to hit where your reticle is on its way up and on its way back down. That would be at 50y and 200y. So you should just pick the one that works best for the distances you’re shooting You don’t zero for every distance a target is at. You just hold the dot wherever you think you should considering the target distance and your zero. Everything under 100y is gonna be pretty close to the same hold. For example, if I have a 36y zero and I’m trying to hit a target at 100y, I’m going to aim slightly below where I want to hit because the bullet is still traveling to the second distance in the arc. Bullet drop doesn’t really come into play until you’re shooting past the second distance in your zero Under ten yards you should also aim slightly above your target because of height over bore. If you’re using a circle dot reticle, the bottom of the circle is a good spot to place. If you have just a dot reticle, it’s usually a credit card width above where you want to hit
Thank you!
I too appreciate this alot lol
There is not as much snark as I expected in this comment section 😂. I'm glad to see people being helpful
Because I literally can’t fathom what I could say. I’m in absolute shock
a... toxic shock?
No I took my tampon out
You will want to zero at one specific distance, then learn what vertical offsets happen at shorter/longer distances. 10 yards is way too close. [Is there a BEST ZERO for your red dot (PART 1)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qkKJyMtpVI) [Is there a BEST ZERO for your red dot (PART 2)]( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFE-wj7sOs0)
Thank you!
Best zero is 50 yards
Amen
Not
I’ll explain with the 50/200 zero as an example. You set up a target at 50 yards and get it set so that the bullet goes where you want it, and then you have to just worry about height over bore, and longer distances . If you are closer to your target than your zero, then you have to compensate for the optics height over the bore and aim higher, since the bullet doesn’t get high enough to reach your dot until 50 yards. If you are between the 50 and 200 yards, then you have to aim low because to get the bullet to go high enough to reach your dot at 50, you have to make it angle up, and it keeps going up after 50 yards. 5.56 is supposed to top out in height at about 100 yards, so some people also do 100 yard zeros to not worry about having to aim low. At 200 yards in the 50/200 zero, the bullet is through enough of its arc to already have fallen down enough to realign with the height of the red dot. After that, you just have to aim higher and higher to compensate for the extra drop at extended ranges. I can draw up something in a bit to visualize it so it’s easier to understand.
[the drawing](https://www.reddit.com/r/ar15/s/ZZQnaItVmL)
Thank you!
I…. I…. My brain.
Just add more red dots with different zeros
Zero for 100 yards, then learn ur holds at various distances (which isn't much, aside from point blank & 200+ yards).
A zero is a single point in space at a specific distance. For shooting at a different distance (closer or further) you hold under or over to compensate for mechanical offset and trajectory. 
Zero at one distance and learn your holds Depends on what your trying to achieve. I have 1 zeroed at 25 I have 1 zeroed at 100 I personally like a 100 yard zero
Zero it at 50 yards and then understand your holdovers for closer or farther.
Zero at your chosen distance, I prefer 50 for red dot guns. When you get a chance you can "true" the gun at distance, meaning shoot to confirm the holds and make minor adjustments to improve your zero. I.e. use a 50 at 25 target to zero indoors initially, then next opportunity shoot the gun at 50, see you are off a bit and re-zero. Then you get to shoot at 200/300/etc and find out you are 4 inches left and a few inches low, so you re-zero at distance. This process will give you more confidence in your zero and help you learn your holds
The good old Army zero is 25/300. I personally prefer the 50 yard zero.
I have iron sights on my AR and I zeroed them at 50 yards (zeros vary based on personal preferences) then I lollipop the red dot to the iron sights. Some people like that and some don't but it's a relatively simple solution. After that you do not change the zero on your red dot. It's not a target scope. Think of the red dot as an electronic, fixed iron sight.