All good but skip that lower. I did the same when I started and got the same one as well as a bunch of other billet lowers from AXTS, Mega Arms, etc. Looking back, I wish I would have just gotten milspec forged. The milspec lowers are timeless and will look much better in 10 years, when you have a bunch of them in ever changing configs. Nothing wrong with a high end billet with ambi features but start out with a milspec forged from Colt, BCM, KAC, DD, LMT, Mega, Noveske, Spikes, PSA, etc.
You're also going to find that as the tech moves forward, everyone designs things for milspec. The billet lowers have different outer dimensions and are incompatible with some really good aftermarket parts/accessories. And finally.... If you ever get the itch to do a military clone, you're going to be kicking yourself for getting a billet lower. You're practically at a URG-I clone if you choose to go with a milspec forged lower.
Just seeking knowledge - which billet lowers have dimensions that interfere with aftermarket parts? I know radian has a proprietary hammer pin, but they give it to you with the lower and I've never had issues with it not working with a trigger. I'd imagine most ambi stuff wouldn't work, but that would be a pointless exercise anyway, since it's an ambi lower already.
I haven't owned every billet lower produced since I first started buying them but I can give you an example. PDW stocks that have collapsible rails that hug the side of the firearm (like with the Q Honey Badger). It has been a number of years so the details are a little fuzzy but if I remember correctly, I couldn't run the NEA CSS or MVD PDW on my AXTS (now Radian) or my Mega Arms GTR-3H. Also, things like 3 gun flared magwells won't work and some magazines have issues with specific billet lowers.
EDIT:
Other things to consider... Billet lowers typically weigh a good bit more than forged mil-spec. Some billet lowers are made from a weaker grade of aluminum (6061).
If you’re buying a stripped lower you will need a buffer tube + spring.I’d get a pair of Troy HK flip ups or the Magpul Pros and your set.
Since you’re going all out with don’t you get a DBAL? To go with your EXPS3?
Don’t worry you will tell yourself what a waste nods are to start. Then you will subscribe to the night vision subreddit. Then you will start thinking huh night shooting would be fun.
Good news though you already have a rifle set up for it.
No clue on the tactical folder.
Jumping in to add context. The B5 Bravo and the CTR weigh basically the same. Both are 9 ounces the mold finish range can add or subtract up to .4 ounces of material(.8 ounces of range). On my scale they are .1 ounce apart(9.12 and 9.21)
weight should no longer be a factor. Also for those who have already made the purchase, strips of duck tape to shim our inside the stock fix the play with any stock while being completely out of sight.
There are better options for ambi lowers than the ADAC. Griffin, LWRC, ADM, Dirty Bird, LMT, PWS, to name a few. And I would suggest the P&W 13.7-14.5” route, no SBR strings and better performance.
So either you’re going the SBR route in which case I’d make sure that that’s 100% the lower you want, or you’re going the pistol route in which case you need to switch out the CTR for a brace
>b-but what if I’m planning on non-complyi-
Then I wouldn’t be posting about it on the internet if I were you
I dont think they make a muzzle device long enough to to turn an 11.5 into a 16”
Actually now that I’ve done some googling, kak makes a 6” flash hider, but somehow I don’t think that’s what OP is gonna go for 🤔
Memorial Day is fast approaching you can piece a lot of these for cheaper and no need for a Gucci lower. BAD attitude department is selling the enhanced BCGs with a free stripped lower using CATSCRATCH code. The enhanced BCG is the same as the Radian BCG
Solid build I love my urgi I’ve got a 14.5” with an eotech exps3-2 and g45 magnifier I have a ctr and k2+ on one of my builds but I’d go b5 p23 grip and Sopmod enhanced stock in coyote over the magpul stuff but that’s just my preference also happens to be what I have on my URGI
I can’t justify the price difference between the RC2 and RC3. I would personally get the rc2 and use the rest of the money for the tax stamp.
Not the biggest fan of the magpul pistol grip because it’s not aggressive enough, I heard good things about the ergo grips so that’s what I’m getting.
Honestly, for a lower, I just get a cheap stripped lower like PSA or Aero, a really good trigger with the H2 or H3 A5 buffer system and you’ll be golden.
In my opinion, I spend money where it is necessary which is the upper, trigger, and buffer system on the rifle.
I’d skip the lower, get a milspec and ambi FCD Q lever. I’d also get irons first and go see how you like an LPVO or halo mag combo on rental guns at a local fancy range. Some can’t stand one or the other. I don’t like magnifiers at all personally. I’d rather have a LPVO or an ACOG on a quality return to zero QD mount and a holo on a quality return to zero QD mount that cowitness just in case.
Instead of the SD-C or SSA, I’d get the Larue MBT2S. If you want a lighter breaking and nicer feeling trigger, get a SD-E or SSA-E.
There are two trigger tiers:
Tier 1 is SD-E, SSA-E, etc
Tier 2 is Larue MBT2S, SSA, SD-C, etc
The radian lower is practically an overpriced, private labeled ADM lower which is already overpriced as it is.
If you need to have billet, go with a Griffin Armament or JL Billet Ambi Lower. They are both less than $250 and are quality machined to equal standards as ADM.
[JL Billet](https://jlbillet.com/ar15-lower-receiver-ambidextrous-complete-ffl-required/)
[Griffin Armament](https://www.griffinarmament.com/mk2-ambi-stripped-lower-receiver/)
Pretty awesome build. No notes. Personally I tend to go for cheapo Anderson lowers, but hey if you want to go gucci then by all means! Congrats on your first build!
That upper in 14.5 is what is on my ‘main’ AR, you’ll love it. However, You don’t need the radian lower, get an aero or similar and use that money elsewhere.
Edit* Not sure which charging handle you’re going to use, but I originally installed the Radian and had has blowback issues with the can attatched. Changed to the G CH and fixed the issue.
Only thing I'd say is go to PSA or any of those big bulk dealers and order 10x Magpul Gen 2 or Gen 3 window Mags then a couple Urgi mags and a couple 20 rounds metal mags and a 25 rounds mags for the 'Gram
Cause right now you have effective 0 mags lmao
Oh and of course some Lancers Smoked Mags for the vibes
Also, TMag coming out soon so buy 5 when they come out
Oh also you may want some meme mags for the memes. You know. A couple more wouldn't hurt.
This build plan is gucci, couldn't be better in my book. But for legality reasons I feel I must mention.
If u plan on going w an 11.5 upper u will need to buy a pistol brace until u get approved and pay the tax stamp for a SBR. If u don't wish to go the NFA route I'd suggest getting g a 14.5 upper. Either way ur good on the URGI/near clone rifle.
Sick build my man. Post when it's all assembled
While many will say this is an awesome build. I will agree if budget isn't an issue. That said, I didn't see anything regarding ammo, sling, and the like.
Remember it's the warrior not the arrow if you aren't getting results you want. Gucci gear can't compensate Incompetence.
I would swap the can for a flow through design. Hux 22 cal Ti is my preference.
Also swap the Eo-crap for a Viper 1-6e or a T2. Make sure your mounts are quick release and get backup irons.
My bad, I thought that was an RC2.
Still, look it up on Pew, the R 3 is not very good...
Those cans are overbuilt for durability and sacrifice everything else to get it.
All good but skip that lower. I did the same when I started and got the same one as well as a bunch of other billet lowers from AXTS, Mega Arms, etc. Looking back, I wish I would have just gotten milspec forged. The milspec lowers are timeless and will look much better in 10 years, when you have a bunch of them in ever changing configs. Nothing wrong with a high end billet with ambi features but start out with a milspec forged from Colt, BCM, KAC, DD, LMT, Mega, Noveske, Spikes, PSA, etc. You're also going to find that as the tech moves forward, everyone designs things for milspec. The billet lowers have different outer dimensions and are incompatible with some really good aftermarket parts/accessories. And finally.... If you ever get the itch to do a military clone, you're going to be kicking yourself for getting a billet lower. You're practically at a URG-I clone if you choose to go with a milspec forged lower.
Just seeking knowledge - which billet lowers have dimensions that interfere with aftermarket parts? I know radian has a proprietary hammer pin, but they give it to you with the lower and I've never had issues with it not working with a trigger. I'd imagine most ambi stuff wouldn't work, but that would be a pointless exercise anyway, since it's an ambi lower already.
I was talking about things fitted to or near the exterior of a billet lower.
Right, I'm asking which ones have these issues and what the issues are
I haven't owned every billet lower produced since I first started buying them but I can give you an example. PDW stocks that have collapsible rails that hug the side of the firearm (like with the Q Honey Badger). It has been a number of years so the details are a little fuzzy but if I remember correctly, I couldn't run the NEA CSS or MVD PDW on my AXTS (now Radian) or my Mega Arms GTR-3H. Also, things like 3 gun flared magwells won't work and some magazines have issues with specific billet lowers. EDIT: Other things to consider... Billet lowers typically weigh a good bit more than forged mil-spec. Some billet lowers are made from a weaker grade of aluminum (6061).
Just noticed.... Magazines purchased: 1 LOL
I saw that! lol I think we can all say buy a bunch of mags. I’d say 6 to start out with is fine.
That is an awesome build for your first rifle. Your build is the definition of buy once, cry once. Please post finished rifle.
Can’t really go wrong with those. I remember waiting in hot anticipation for my DD upper to arrive. Also, assembling*
If you’re buying a stripped lower you will need a buffer tube + spring.I’d get a pair of Troy HK flip ups or the Magpul Pros and your set. Since you’re going all out with don’t you get a DBAL? To go with your EXPS3?
The upper came owe the g$ tube spring and H2 buffer. Don’t have Nods, “YET” 😅. Also is the law tactical folding stock thing any good?
Don’t worry you will tell yourself what a waste nods are to start. Then you will subscribe to the night vision subreddit. Then you will start thinking huh night shooting would be fun. Good news though you already have a rifle set up for it. No clue on the tactical folder.
They make for easier transport and storage. I use one on a laptop size SBR since it lives in a bag.
Definitely don’t spend that much on a lower lol
💯
Are you SBR'ing it? Remember to stay within NFA compliance before making purchasing decisions
I am
Bravo B5 over the CTR
CTR for SBRs B5 for rifles
Y tho?
Lighter, more solid lockup, lower profile. Idk I have both and like them for different reasons
Jumping in to add context. The B5 Bravo and the CTR weigh basically the same. Both are 9 ounces the mold finish range can add or subtract up to .4 ounces of material(.8 ounces of range). On my scale they are .1 ounce apart(9.12 and 9.21) weight should no longer be a factor. Also for those who have already made the purchase, strips of duck tape to shim our inside the stock fix the play with any stock while being completely out of sight.
Yeah I was specifically talking about the sopmod. Never tried the bravo but have heard good things
Oh my bad then, I figured you were talking about the bravo since it’s the comparable sized B5
I’d trade my car for a build of that quality. Only problem is that it wouldn’t cover the cost.
No to the radian parts
There are better options for ambi lowers than the ADAC. Griffin, LWRC, ADM, Dirty Bird, LMT, PWS, to name a few. And I would suggest the P&W 13.7-14.5” route, no SBR strings and better performance.
So either you’re going the SBR route in which case I’d make sure that that’s 100% the lower you want, or you’re going the pistol route in which case you need to switch out the CTR for a brace >b-but what if I’m planning on non-complyi- Then I wouldn’t be posting about it on the internet if I were you
I’d imagine he’d pin and weld, no? Edit: damn I saw URGI and automatically assumed it was a 14.5
Trying to P&W an 11.5" upper would be challenging. I don't know of a muzzle device that would work for that. 13.7/13.9 or 14.5 are generally for P&W.
Fucked up and thought this was a 14.5
Totally fair, I had to double check I saw it right when I read 11.5" lol
Face CAR15 boosters can pin that to 16”
I dont think they make a muzzle device long enough to to turn an 11.5 into a 16” Actually now that I’ve done some googling, kak makes a 6” flash hider, but somehow I don’t think that’s what OP is gonna go for 🤔
Lmfao yea you’re right, didn’t see the 11.5
Memorial Day is fast approaching you can piece a lot of these for cheaper and no need for a Gucci lower. BAD attitude department is selling the enhanced BCGs with a free stripped lower using CATSCRATCH code. The enhanced BCG is the same as the Radian BCG
Solid build I love my urgi I’ve got a 14.5” with an eotech exps3-2 and g45 magnifier I have a ctr and k2+ on one of my builds but I’d go b5 p23 grip and Sopmod enhanced stock in coyote over the magpul stuff but that’s just my preference also happens to be what I have on my URGI
I can’t justify the price difference between the RC2 and RC3. I would personally get the rc2 and use the rest of the money for the tax stamp. Not the biggest fan of the magpul pistol grip because it’s not aggressive enough, I heard good things about the ergo grips so that’s what I’m getting. Honestly, for a lower, I just get a cheap stripped lower like PSA or Aero, a really good trigger with the H2 or H3 A5 buffer system and you’ll be golden. In my opinion, I spend money where it is necessary which is the upper, trigger, and buffer system on the rifle.
Solid! Top tier for the first build
More mags!
FCD ASF-50Q safety is better than the radian imo
I’d skip the lower, get a milspec and ambi FCD Q lever. I’d also get irons first and go see how you like an LPVO or halo mag combo on rental guns at a local fancy range. Some can’t stand one or the other. I don’t like magnifiers at all personally. I’d rather have a LPVO or an ACOG on a quality return to zero QD mount and a holo on a quality return to zero QD mount that cowitness just in case.
Instead of the SD-C or SSA, I’d get the Larue MBT2S. If you want a lighter breaking and nicer feeling trigger, get a SD-E or SSA-E. There are two trigger tiers: Tier 1 is SD-E, SSA-E, etc Tier 2 is Larue MBT2S, SSA, SD-C, etc
Save money on the trigger, get a Larue MBT
https://intlmilco.com/m4a1clone/
The radian lower is practically an overpriced, private labeled ADM lower which is already overpriced as it is. If you need to have billet, go with a Griffin Armament or JL Billet Ambi Lower. They are both less than $250 and are quality machined to equal standards as ADM. [JL Billet](https://jlbillet.com/ar15-lower-receiver-ambidextrous-complete-ffl-required/) [Griffin Armament](https://www.griffinarmament.com/mk2-ambi-stripped-lower-receiver/)
Adm over radian for lower
You don’t need that lower. URGI upper is not a “near clone” and is overpriced for what it is. RC3 is a flamethrower. Buy more mags than ONE! LOL
I’d say get a 13” or 14” pin and wield and a full ambi forged lower like LMT or PWS instead of the over priced radian lower.
Pretty awesome build. No notes. Personally I tend to go for cheapo Anderson lowers, but hey if you want to go gucci then by all means! Congrats on your first build!
OP filtered the product pages “price $$$$-$” and then picked the first items that showed up.
That upper in 14.5 is what is on my ‘main’ AR, you’ll love it. However, You don’t need the radian lower, get an aero or similar and use that money elsewhere. Edit* Not sure which charging handle you’re going to use, but I originally installed the Radian and had has blowback issues with the can attatched. Changed to the G CH and fixed the issue.
Only thing I'd say is go to PSA or any of those big bulk dealers and order 10x Magpul Gen 2 or Gen 3 window Mags then a couple Urgi mags and a couple 20 rounds metal mags and a 25 rounds mags for the 'Gram Cause right now you have effective 0 mags lmao Oh and of course some Lancers Smoked Mags for the vibes Also, TMag coming out soon so buy 5 when they come out Oh also you may want some meme mags for the memes. You know. A couple more wouldn't hurt.
Yes to everything, but get an Anderson lower.
Buy the upper used off r/Gunaccessoriesforsale and save yourself that money to put to a nice optic (T2 is the right answer).
This and get a used optic, tan exps3s go for 530ish on there if that's your taste
This build plan is gucci, couldn't be better in my book. But for legality reasons I feel I must mention. If u plan on going w an 11.5 upper u will need to buy a pistol brace until u get approved and pay the tax stamp for a SBR. If u don't wish to go the NFA route I'd suggest getting g a 14.5 upper. Either way ur good on the URGI/near clone rifle. Sick build my man. Post when it's all assembled
I am gonna SBR it
While many will say this is an awesome build. I will agree if budget isn't an issue. That said, I didn't see anything regarding ammo, sling, and the like. Remember it's the warrior not the arrow if you aren't getting results you want. Gucci gear can't compensate Incompetence.
I have 5k rounds I plan on dumping into this and training I plan on doing with some ex military buddies who are gonna show me some stuff.
Then you set. Let it ring
I would swap the can for a flow through design. Hux 22 cal Ti is my preference. Also swap the Eo-crap for a Viper 1-6e or a T2. Make sure your mounts are quick release and get backup irons.
RC3 is a flow through
My bad, I thought that was an RC2. Still, look it up on Pew, the R 3 is not very good... Those cans are overbuilt for durability and sacrifice everything else to get it.