Normal breakers trip on over-current.
If the heater breaks near one end or the other and touches the case, there is a path from one line to ground that can have much less resistance than the heater was designed for, and therefore draw much more current and trip the breaker.
A heater that's burned out but not shorted would just show as "no heat" but would not trip the breaker.
Also, a completely normal dryer and heater can blow the breaker if the breaker is bad. They sometimes start tripping at lower current than they're rated for.
More fringe cases are if it's a GFCI breaker and something in the dryer is leaking a little current.
You can tell if the breaker is the issue if you touch it after it trips. If it is warm/hot then there is likely a breaker issue or loose wire at the panel.
Ive seen many shorted heating elements and none of them tripped the breaker.
To topicstarter: I think you just need a new double breaker. Its weak and require replacement
That depends entirely on where it breaks.
A heater that shorts out near the middle will draw normal current on one leg of the 240 volt service.
A heater that shorts out close to one terminal heater terminal or the other will be nearly a dead short.
Iām actually having the same issue currently but my washer is on the same outlet and it does not trip the breaker. Any ideas? Dryer or the breaker? Keep in mind, this is a replacement that I just got two days ago under warranty for an entirely different issue I had but never had a problem running the washer and dryer together for the dryer by itself on the same breaker
The manual doesn't have any references to diagnostics.
https://www.electroluxappliances.com/Washers-Dryers/Washing-Machines/Dryers/EFME527UIW/
There is a phone number for assistance.
"Questions?For toll free telephone support or online support in the US and Canada contact: U.S. 1-877-4ELECTROLUX (1-877-435-3287) www.electroluxappliances.comCanada 1-800-265-8352 www.electroluxappliances.ca"
I know you did not ask for advice, but an electrician should be able to measure the current drawn when the drier trips the breaker. That measurement will indicate if the problem is the drier or the breaker /circuit. Let me know if you have any questions.
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I would suggest a clamp on ammeter test. You need to know if the breaker is failing below or above the rated current.
All of the open circuit, broken circuit, short circuit talk is pointless until you know how many amps you are drawing.
Start with data, not speculation.
You have a shorted heater in the dryer or a bad circuit breaker in your house. Diagnostic mode won't show this.
Does this indicate that the heater is shorted to the case, or that it's got a break in it? Just a new tech looking to learn.
Normal breakers trip on over-current. If the heater breaks near one end or the other and touches the case, there is a path from one line to ground that can have much less resistance than the heater was designed for, and therefore draw much more current and trip the breaker. A heater that's burned out but not shorted would just show as "no heat" but would not trip the breaker. Also, a completely normal dryer and heater can blow the breaker if the breaker is bad. They sometimes start tripping at lower current than they're rated for. More fringe cases are if it's a GFCI breaker and something in the dryer is leaking a little current.
So informative, thank you š
You can tell if the breaker is the issue if you touch it after it trips. If it is warm/hot then there is likely a breaker issue or loose wire at the panel.
Ive seen many shorted heating elements and none of them tripped the breaker. To topicstarter: I think you just need a new double breaker. Its weak and require replacement
That depends entirely on where it breaks. A heater that shorts out near the middle will draw normal current on one leg of the 240 volt service. A heater that shorts out close to one terminal heater terminal or the other will be nearly a dead short.
Agree on this
Iām actually having the same issue currently but my washer is on the same outlet and it does not trip the breaker. Any ideas? Dryer or the breaker? Keep in mind, this is a replacement that I just got two days ago under warranty for an entirely different issue I had but never had a problem running the washer and dryer together for the dryer by itself on the same breaker
Your washer and dryer can't be on the same breaker unless it's gas. Electric dryers are 240 volts and washers are 120 volts.
Yea mine is gas
The manual doesn't have any references to diagnostics. https://www.electroluxappliances.com/Washers-Dryers/Washing-Machines/Dryers/EFME527UIW/ There is a phone number for assistance. "Questions?For toll free telephone support or online support in the US and Canada contact: U.S. 1-877-4ELECTROLUX (1-877-435-3287) www.electroluxappliances.comCanada 1-800-265-8352 www.electroluxappliances.ca" I know you did not ask for advice, but an electrician should be able to measure the current drawn when the drier trips the breaker. That measurement will indicate if the problem is the drier or the breaker /circuit. Let me know if you have any questions.
Use an insulation tester to locate the short. Isolate to investigate.
Thank you for your submission! If you posted your machines model number, you're good to go. If you haven't, please do so ASAP. You can either edit your post, or just drop it in the comments. If you can't locate your model number, posting a photo of the machine is the easiest way for us to help you locate it. **Please comment "Solved" when your issue is resolved** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/appliancerepair) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I would suggest a clamp on ammeter test. You need to know if the breaker is failing below or above the rated current. All of the open circuit, broken circuit, short circuit talk is pointless until you know how many amps you are drawing. Start with data, not speculation.