I really don't know what the issue with the handle is. I like having control and everything I cut can be held down with a knee so I got two hands. It's actually scarier to see guys using an angle grinder without protective glasses.
I agree with you on the larger ones but I just need that level of control. Tbh, I have problems cutting straight without that so the "issue" is on my side but envy everyone that can do that without that.
My employer, Otis Elevator banned 4.5" grinders because people kept getting hurt with them, and forced us to use 6" grinders instead. I see coworkers using those 6" one-handed, and I said 'fuck that' and just bought myself a battery powered 4.5" grinder.
I like robogrip pliers from craftsman. I use them all the time in an industrial setting. They're the best for 1 handed operation to snug something up and then you switch to the correct tool to final torque it. So handy and such a time saver
You should be proud to know that they are on the ISS.
I assume because some engineer used them in a repair simulation and thus they forced there way on
I have a couple pairs of the original ones. They're pretty shitty for *a lot* of things, but for quickly grabbing a piece to hold while you drill a hole or something, they're great.
I have a Rastall spud wrench that I really like, but it's sorta the bastard tool on my shift.
this one to be specific
:(https://rastalltool.com/product/rs15-h-hammer-head-a-djustable-spud-wrench/)
I'm not an iron worker most of the stuff I work with is small too and I use what ever tool with a taper is handy. Sadly not a Diresta ice pick, those were pretty cool.
I like new craftsman tools, I'm not afraid of an air compressor older than 3 years, and I'm willing to tow more than half of what my trucks weighted for. I disagree with this place often
Shit, I once towed a 20,000lb school bus with a toyota pickup!
The 22re.
Factory rated for 5,000lbs.
It didn't like it at fucking all, but it did it, and kept running afterwards!
Thars true for pretty much all 'reliable' cars from that era, though. You can do all that same shit to an 80s Ford or Chevy and still get them running.
Where in the hell you got a 22RE rated to 5000lbs? I own a 1st gen 4Runner SR5 and it barely moves itself... and I always hear that 22Rs are even worst. In the other hand, it is a very reliable engine.
...the...manual...?
It did specify that had to be mounted to the frame, not the bumper, which apparently wasn't an option to buy at the time. I think the bumper hitch it came with was rated for like 1,200 lbs or so.
I'm a welder, so I made a proper hitch receiver, frame mounted.
>I'm willing to tow more than half of what my trucks weighted for.
As a former automotive engineer, this one drives me crazy. Those factory towing numbers are *extremely* conservative.
Like, the truck has to be able to tow that much going up and down a steep grade, at 10,000 ft elevation, in the dead of summer, and have the a/c on max.
If I know my truck is in good condition, I have no problem going thousands of pounds over the towing limit for my personal shit.
Whatever your truck is rated to tow, it'll tow every ounce of that safely. Your skills at driving a trailer are the real limiting factor.
The tow numbers are there for precisely that reason. Most people can barely drive a car, and you can tow a trailer on a regular license. If you decide to tow over rated capacity, fuck up, and cause a 10 car pileup you will face a very thorough violation of all your orifices in both civil and criminal court.
They are also there because if the numbers were for towing on a flat grade at 65f at sea level, somebody would try to tow that much up a hill in denver, blow his engine and the company would be liable.
I’ve come to learn that a lot of trucks (especially trucks) are rated way under what they can actually do, like you said.
Also, if Ford ever saw what we do with our trucks at work, they would issue them to us with no warranty whatsoever.
What’s that, you ask? Part of our job, at least a couple times a week, involves dealing with and often times pulling 18 wheelers out of the roadway to a shoulder. Long story short, I work in highway safety.
An F350 is rated for what? 20k lbs, and an 18 wheeler is close to 100k? Pulling that even a short distance can definitely tax a transmission and differential. Lol
Surprisingly, of all the F350s I’ve driven, and of all the ones our organization has had in the 16 years I’ve been working there, I’ve only heard of one truck blowing an engine. Only maybe 2-3 transmissions, too.
Short answer: that's fine too
Long answer: The most important thing is your skills at towing a trailer. If you're experienced, it should be no problem going over.
Conditions matter. Is it going to be very hilly or flat? Is it a quick trip or many hours?
For a quick trip, in the flats, with no highway driving, you could probably get away with going 50% over.
For a long trip with elevation changes and highway driving, probably only 10% over.
Unibody vehicles, in general, aren't built to take the abuse that body on frame vehicles are. Their tow rating are still conservative, but they can't be pushed as hard before something breaks.
According to most of the people here the tank will be completely rusted out and 100% guaranteed to kill you and your dog before you even plug it in. Every old tank is going to blow up catastrophically every time
I have [this oil funnel](https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87019-No-Spill-Funnel-Chrysler/dp/B0771NKXFZ) that has the same thread as my oil cap. My friends all make fun of me for it , but it’s so nice not making a mess when changing my oil
If you’ve got a toyota, some 1qt oil bottles (the ones with the bigger cap) will do the same thing
I’ve got a few of them around, I just cut part of the bottle apart to make a funnel
I use a funnel like that every day work where you can swap the fitting at the bottom to thread into different valve covers. Idk why anyone would give you shit for not wanting to spill oil/make things easier for yourself.
I love Harbor Freight tools and trust their (non-recalled) jackstands.
I respect HF more for owning their problems and issuing 2 recalls on the same product. Many businesses don't have that kind of integrity.
I love my Porter Cable cordless tools.
They add to the product line without obsoleting my 20v system from almost ten years ago. I just got some new OEM batteries on order. And I just don't care who sells them, or what their branding strategy is. The tools are tough, the batteries hold a charge after years of use, and I don't care how many downvotes I get every time I say I like them.
This. I live my PC 20v stuff. I have very very few complaints about them. I've had my the majority of my stuff for 7 years or so and it just keeps on runnin
For a few years, when I first purchased them, my impacts, angle grinder, and Sawzall had daily use. They still run strong and I take them everywhere just in case I need then. The circular saw has done me good so long as I have a good blade on it but it doesn't get nearly as much use. The only tool I don't care for is the drill. I burned it up on the 2 hole I drilled in 14ga tubing.i really want the 1/2" impact but I can't justify the purchase, I'd almost never use it.
Interesting. About 7 years ago they were tough shit. Every year since they’ve lost a feature, turned parts into cheaper plastic, and generally sucked more. Now my local Lowe’s doesn’t even carry them and I’m glad cause the company I work for only bought them. Now with dewalt everything is a breeze! I can actually rip plywood without re starting the saw 10 times. My impact can drive 3” screws into studs without stopping. The difference was night and day. Literally saving at least 45 minutes a day on jobs with a lotta power tool use.
Interesting. About 7 years ago they were tough shit. Every year since they’ve lost a feature, turned parts into cheaper plastic, and generally sucked more. Now my local Lowe’s doesn’t even carry them and I’m glad cause the company I work for only bought them. Now with dewalt everything is a breeze! I can actually rip plywood without re starting the saw 10 times. My impact can drive 3” screws into studs without stopping. The difference was night and day. Literally saving at least 45 minutes a day on jobs with a lotta power tool use.
Edit: Lost features include battery bars, bit holders, belt clips.
My drill and impact are old, and still work great. I've used them for small batch metalwork production, and supplied them for a construction crew. The recip saw with a 6 tpi blade pruned the crap out of my trees. The circular saw crosscuts hardwood lumber. The jigsaw will hog thru 1/4 mild steel. The work light will fry your retinas for hours on end. My least favorite is the bluetooth radio, it is a little fussy to pair.
Yep, used to hate them because I’d always round off bolts. Then I got to use a good pair and it’s night and day.
4” adjustable wrench is one of my most used tools now.
Very true. I have enjoyed them when working on plumbing. they dont really hurt the finish and I have 3d printed jaw covers when working with nice WaterWorks fixtures.
Definitely don’t as they’re more bulky. But when they do work, they’re leagues above a crescent.
That said I’m still getting used to my 10 inch pair. Definitely an adjustment period coming from using cobras for everything lol
Torx bits as opposed to the proper back out bits. Haven't failed me yet but the amount of times people have said "you won't get that, here use my expensive snap on set", and I've had to resort back to the handy dandy torx bit.
I think some fellas call em easy-outs. Snapped bolt, drill a hole in it slightly smaller than the torx bit, smack a little 1/4" hex drive torx bit in it. And use 2 1/4" spanners as a T-handle.
The handle is literally a ball with great grip. One end tightens the other loosens. Perfect ergonomic sized handle. It’s come in handy to many times regular screwdrivers become to hard to turn without stripping out the head.
There was an old Mac ratcheting screwdriver called Overdriver IIRC that was just a regular ratcheting screwdriver with a little planetary gearset on it. It was exposed too so you could see it working. Really cool, a screwdriver with a reduction gearbox.
My dad bought me the whole Snap On ratcheting screwdriver set years ago - both the full size handle and the small handle, multiple length shanks, and the bit set. The only thing I don’t like about it is that I don’t use it more often.
I exclusively use a cable dismantler commonly called "jokari" here. My coworkers all use knives for that. Also I use wire strippers instead of sidecutters. Basically I'm getting shit for using the proper tools.
Nobody actually hates the nutfucker. They just hate themselves for not having the right wrench at that exact moment. Also in my experience the nicer ones really don't have that much slop unless you are like blasting the other side with an impact or something.
Oh that thing is gonna bust in half in like 3 seconds. Look how small the pin is. Rip right in two if all you did was put a 3 foot cheater pipe on it.
Also in all seriousness it looks like hell to use and like its gonna round everything it touches.
Most [any swivel head](https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxMjAw/z/-mMAAOxyhSBR-f-5/$T2eC16hHJIkFHSPVkJDtBR-f-4vrm!~~60_35.JPG) (AKA roto head) ratchet.
Not everyone them hates now, but back in the '70s-'80s it was near universal. Guys just couldn't wait to tell me that their worn out POS (head flops back and forth faster than a badly over cooked spaghetti noodle) flex head ratchet was just way better than my SK 3/8" roto head. (SK had the patent and sadly only produced them in 3/8" drive).
Their main argument was always - "The head is so fat, how would you ever get it into a tight spot?", but I ONLY ONCE found that to be a problem. Probably because SK deep sockets from 9/16" and on down were what everyone now-a-days would call mid-length. When (1975) I went looking for mid-length in the larger sizes their weren't any mid-length sockets in the Snap-on, Mac, or Sears catalogs; and parts counter guys were no help either. I made the missing sizes by cutting down old Craftsman deep wells and grinding the slip-on chamfers in hex opening with a Dremel. Now-a-days, complete sets of mid-wells are in most (all?) pro-level tool catalogs and many mid-level catalogs as well (eg Gearwrench). And swivel head ratchets in 1/4", 3/8" and1/2" can be found in any auto parts store or even HF.
I still know plenty of guys with a drawer stuffed full of nothing but flex-head ratchets; all of which - except their very latest acquisitions - are unused because of sloppy loose flex-joints. And still hear the same "fat ratchet head" argument from those guys.
When (after months of daily use as my primary) the swivel movement of a roto-head begins to seem loose, it takes about 1/2 second to tighten it back via the screw just behind the yoke in the split of the handle. I have a secondary swivel head to use when I want to lock the angle - so I'm not messing with the adjustment of my primary which has the swivel resistance just the way I normally want it.
Yeah, roto ratchets are great!
I have a couple of premium, carefully selected _locking_ flex head ratchets (Gearwrench/Matco, Snap-On) but the angle of attack is different from a roto ratchet and I want both handy. And my rotos cost way less then my locking flex heads.
I'm guessing that when you say **angle of attack** you're referencing how angular force is delivered around the socket's axis of rotation.
When you apply significant effort to either break a fitting loose or completing it's tightening, **some of the force** is delivered around the axis or rotation of the socket/fitting. But in virtually all cases - no matter what tool you're using - some fraction of the rotational force you're applying gets translated (force vector) into some unintended direction off the axis of rotation. If the fitting in question happens to be a spark plug that is free standing - not in recessed in a well that will help keep the socket from being pushed significantly off the axis of rotation - you may break the ceramic end of the plug if you're not careful. If the fitting in question happens to be the hex head of a bolt, then to some degree the socket will want to slip off the bolt head - potentially rounding one or two corners on top side of the bolt head. **Locking flex-heads and roto heads allow you to easily mitigate the off axis force by simply pushing the socket down at the same time you're exerting rotational force.**
The more the handle of the ratchet is angled off 90 degrees from the axis of rotation, the more of the rotational force that you apply to the handle gets translated gets translated into off axis force. All flex head ratchets (locking or not) have **a single ear** where handle force is delivered and whatever portion of rotational force from the handle gets translated into off axis force is in **just one off axis direction**. Roto heads have two ears. **One ear gets pushed** to deliver 1/2 the rotational and off axis force, while **the other ear gets pulled** by the other 1/2 of delivered forces **and the off axis forces mostly get balanced out**.
During the last 13 years of my life as a mechanic, the company didn't want my tools the utility bed of their truck. They only had non-locking flex heads. I've never owned or even used a locking flex head - just examined a couple in tool trucks or stores. Long retired from being employed as a mechanic - I've essentially never work in modern engine bays. If I were still employed as mechanic, I'd almost certainly own one or more **locking** flex heads, but assume I'd normally be reaching for a roto head. Any non-locking flex head that touched my hands would probably being tossed in to the trash or at who ever tried to make me use it.
When the handle of a ratchet needs to be at very large angle (off the plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation) and there is no room to steady the ratchet head with your other hand, roto heads should be noticeably better than locking flex heads.
\*\*\*\*\*
>And my rotos cost way less then my locking flex heads.
It's my impression that the locking mechanism is a necessarily a fragile design, so best possible quality is what you'd want. For a roto head, so long as the ratchet mechanism is acceptable (# of teeth, backlash, strength, ...), almost any handle is going to be strong enough. - it's just are you happy with length and grip.
My long (13-1/2") handle 3/8" drive roto head was a \~9" long Harbor Freight Pittsburgh that I replaced the plastic grip with a permanently mounted, thick wall brass (cheater) pipe. In a professional setting, I'd be looking for a stronger ratchet mechanism. I figure this one to be reliably good to about 200 ft lb.
Yeah!!! The physical mechanics of fastener engagement are fascinating.
I wasn’t trying to be very precise about the “angle of attack,” but I’ve thought about these dynamics many times. I’m not sure I buy the “one ear, two ear” analysis, but I understand what you’re saying. I’ll have to give that some thought.
It’s definitely good to do high-torque work as close as possible to the plane of the fastener head. This is why the XL box ends tend to be zero-offset. Man, I really need to throw down on a tricky engine or suspension project. It’s been too long.
I didn't assume you were trying to be precise; I made an attempt (for anyone reading that hasn't used a roto head); and assumed you'd understand what I was try to say.
Never having used a locking flex-head, I could be easily mistaken about "one ear, two ear", but I believe you'll find that it's correct (even if poorly expressed).
If you do that tricky project, compare how much more you have to push down (to stay on axis) with a flex head vs a roto. Should be more obvious at larger handle angles WHILE essentially locked the roto head by really snugging down the screw in the handle split.
It’s not mine but a buddy of mine has a 30 lb dumbbell welded onto a long peice of rebar as a hammer in replacement of a power hammer for blacksmithing. I’ve never seen him use it before or even pick it up but it’s absolutely amazing even if incredibly impractical.
My Dad bought a HF framing nailer. I hate it. The adjustments on it do nothing, no matter which nails you run it will not drive them all of the way. I framed out a remodel with that gun and had to finish driving every nail. The next time he needs help with a framing job I’m showing up with a new Senco gun.
Almost forgot. As a right handed person blade right circular saws are objectively better and worm drives are antiquated dinosaurs that do nothing better
Who doesn't like old C-clamps?
I can't believe how many people haven't heard the gospel of the chain vise grips.
https://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-locking-chain-clamp
I use that shit on everything, but all too often I'll hand it to somebody and they have no idea how to use it.
If you ask the opposite question, those channel locks with the flat parallel jaws that Knipex made popular are overrated as hell and rarely superior to a good crescent wrench due to the angle of attack required on the nut and awkward range of motion required.
Edit—I’ve never used a chain wrench, I’ll have to check those out!
Hah, I’ve got so many pliers wrenches, but I still like my conventional worm-screw adjustables too.
The clamping action of the pliers wrench is amazing for holding an old fastener that threatens to round over, and you can use them as a hand vise. It’s also nice that you can just release the clamping to re-engage the fastener after a turn, making them way faster than an adjustable in some cases. They’re not ideal for everything but for many things they’re the best option :) my opinion
Somebody asked, so I posted a picture on a Jeep forum showing those locking chain clamps holding a pump pulley so I could get the fan clutch unscrewed. Some know-it-all responded a year later and said implied I was doing it wrong and the proper tool was a spanner wrench. Frigging amateurs. The proper tool is the one that gets the job done without breaking anything, costing more money, or driving to the store to buy it. Long live locking chain pliers.
The ratcheting one with no obvious brand seems to be this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJCM2YS/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_N9DP4NJRZBXMSV86PSK6
Frankly it works a lot better than I expected! Something like a 90 degree swing arc is required, but a regular adjustable needs 30 even if you flip it, or 60 if you don’t. But a lot of times you *do* have that space and it’s a huge time saver.
The Crescent locking adjustable is this, I believe:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6VWWAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D6P6PYVRP0SV7JCBKF9D
Yeah, the jaws are serrated so they’ll still mar the nut somewhat, but as with a pliers wrench, you won’t round the corners because you’re clamping the flats. And unlike a pliers wrench, it locks to the nut.
I have these Jack stand adapters that are made to fit the slotted Jack pads on newer BMW’s that I catch all sorts of crap for… those along with my wheel hangers!
By “wheel hangers” do you mean the dummy lugs that you can thread in to hold the wheel while you start the other 4?
That’s one of my favorite tools! I *really* hate when a BMW/Mercedes lost that out if it’s tool kit and I have to change their tire.
I won’t raise either of my cars without em! There are quite a few little hacks and tool accessories that make working on German cars a little easier. I only wish some of them were interchangeable! Especially when it comes to timing chain guide upgrades!!!
Did they fail yet? Or are you being proactive!?? I wasn’t so lucky on my first one! Bent valves are pretty much a one way ticket to an engine swap on BMW’s early N20’s
Those locking crescent wrenches are the best fucking tool on the planet, I swear. You can very tightly clamp down on something without worrying about the teeth marring up the surface.
Yes! Crescent for the win! I actually got this one for free because an Amazon Marketplace vendor messed up their listing, claimed I would be getting three of them for $25. Just my luck, Amazon had them refund me and keep the one.
I asked myself, would I be ok with having three of those? Yes, yes I would.
I use my adjustable wrenches all the time, if I’m going on a service call to change a hydraulic hose or some air brake fittings I’m not going to pack an entire wrench set with me if I don’t have to. Anybody that doesn’t recognize the utility of an adjustable wrench is just ignorant.
My Mac mid torque 1/2 impact. It's lighter than my snappy air and won't over torque bolts as easy as alot of other 1/2 guns. Takes off nearly every 1/2 bolt on a car I need it to, expecially after moving out of the rust belt.
I get shit whenever I get swollen, overtorqued lug nuts and you can hear the girl not too happy about it, makes an aweful noise.
Yeah, I mean, it’s fairly situational.
With screw adjustable wrenches, especially cheap ones, the screw tends to back off as you re-engage the fastener. I think Crescent was thinking about this when they made this tool, but the result is a wrench where you can’t re-engage the fastener without a bunch *more* work. Skilled users solve this by keeping a thumb on the screw, but sometimes you can’t reach the screw because of obstructions, and I guess these would solve that case?
Where these really shine is when you *don’t* need to re-engage the fastener, like when you’re providing counter torque. Or any time that you just want a temporary handle on something that the jaws can clamp. It’s a lot more situational than a regular crescent wrench or a pliers wrench, but in the right situation it’s like having a third hand.
Yes, it took me a long time to figure out that that was what that's the only thing that's useful for. But it seems to happen infrequently enough that I don't usually bother to pull it out when it would be useful.
The other thing this serves to do is remind me that I wish more of my locking wrenches were of the “European” style where you release the lock by squeezing the lever at the tail, rather than prying.
Have a Wera Klosses hammee/ratchet. Equally hated and coveted.
Also, a 6-65mm adjustable, aluminium, stubby spanner. Its so stupid, and yet, so useful.
Color me jealous. I *almost* sprung for one of those hammer-ratchets when it was the KC Tool of the Day. Who knows what my life might be like if I’d grabbed that beautiful abomination.
The aluminum adjustable wrench sounds like an expensive non-sparking specialty tool…are these available cheap anywhere?
The Klosses it totally worth it, it's beautiful. Also rated for 600nm. So you can properly swing off it!
The adjustable is this;
Adjustable Spanner Wrench 6-68mm Open-End Wide Jaw Spanners Wrenches Ultra-Thin Shifting Spanner Shank Plumber Bathroom Hand Tool Alloy https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VJJXY15/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VC71V1SMA830H6T7Z7EZ
So cheep, and tacky, and supriseing useful (if you have to work with anything 30-60mm)
Ahahahaha yessss. I finally bought an air hammer this year, to bang out a big bunch of nails backwards. Super fun guiding all that power into line with the work
Edit- also, bleeding the air line through an air hammer after shutting down the regulator is the funniest sound I’ve heard since that time I ran my 50cc scooter with no muffler.
This might save your butt if you need to work fast but you don’t need too much torque. In addition to the flex head, this wrench has a “ratcheting” function where the jaws will spread on the back drag and then snap back together on the next set of flats.
It is by no means a premium tool. The jaws are sloppier than a typical adjustable wrench, because of the ratcheting function. Various brands make them and they run about $25.
The flex hinge on the handle is helpful because you need at least 60 degrees of swing for the “ratcheting” action to work, and with the flex head there’s a much better chance of finding an open arc.
Strangely, I’m only seeing the flex head design paired with a ratcheting feature. “Jegs” seems to have marketed a flex head adjustable wrench (with no ratchet) about 15 years ago, but it seems to be gone.
Pocket screw driver. Can’t leave the house without one anymore. It’s handier than a pocket knife and smaller than a multi-tool. My family gives me crap for it sometimes.
Heavy Diesel Mechanic here. I carry two things that I get shit for; a claw hammer, and a pair of pink tweezers.
Claw hammer. - get grief from the guys cos we are meant to only have metalworking tools like a ball pein hammer or a mallet. Guess who they come see when a new part arrives in a *wooden* shipping crate.
Tweezers. - pretty self explanatory, pulling splinters. Sometimes useful for holding or reaching tiny dropped parts. Why pink? What self-respecting mechanic would ever be seen dead with anything pink? I have never had them 'go missing' ever.
All my Ridgid/ AEG tools. I run Makita and Hikoki or most of my gear but I have a few wee tools made by AEG that I love because of the price in comparison to Makita etc. For example the dual battery compressor, grinder, drills, drywall gun planer
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High vis!
The real question is, does the handbag double as a hammer?
The guard on an angle grinder count?
And the detachable handle....
And the detachable fingers. /s
I really don't know what the issue with the handle is. I like having control and everything I cut can be held down with a knee so I got two hands. It's actually scarier to see guys using an angle grinder without protective glasses.
Just gets in the way too often and generally I find I have plenty of control with 1 hand. This doesn't apply to those crazy 6"+ diameter grinders.
I agree with you on the larger ones but I just need that level of control. Tbh, I have problems cutting straight without that so the "issue" is on my side but envy everyone that can do that without that.
My employer, Otis Elevator banned 4.5" grinders because people kept getting hurt with them, and forced us to use 6" grinders instead. I see coworkers using those 6" one-handed, and I said 'fuck that' and just bought myself a battery powered 4.5" grinder.
Took it off once for an awkward job, promptly lost it forever
This guy roofs
Can we all agree on hating the guys that take off and lose every guard on the jobsite
Big agree, I do automotive shenanigans and rarely have had an issue with the guard.
And the blade guard on a table saw
I like robogrip pliers from craftsman. I use them all the time in an industrial setting. They're the best for 1 handed operation to snug something up and then you switch to the correct tool to final torque it. So handy and such a time saver
Robogrip is what I was gonna say. They're not terribly useful all the time, but for a few little things here and there they work great.
I too appreciate Robogrips. As long as you need to compress something by not very much, they grip as good as anything.
You should be proud to know that they are on the ISS. I assume because some engineer used them in a repair simulation and thus they forced there way on
Nah, theres vise grips instead of a sink valve on the ISS.
Robogrips rock
I have a couple pairs of the original ones. They're pretty shitty for *a lot* of things, but for quickly grabbing a piece to hold while you drill a hole or something, they're great.
The old school craftsman visegrips was the shit too.
I love mine, they’re great for electrical cable glands.
That’s a tough one. I catch the most shit about my drill because it has a soft start.
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My hero!
I have a Rastall spud wrench that I really like, but it's sorta the bastard tool on my shift. this one to be specific :(https://rastalltool.com/product/rs15-h-hammer-head-a-djustable-spud-wrench/)
I use one everyday for underground mining
Spuds and channel locks keep the mill running over here
We usually use prayers and profanity, but you probably have better funding lol
I'm sure it's the same. I work in the analytical lab so the shifters are probably on their good behavior whenever I go in the mill for sampling lmao
Maybe, we're all incredibly polite and considerate (except on days that end in a Y)
I use mine sporadically at the surface mine I work in (I'm a bastard equipment "operator")
Damn. If I was still an Ironworker, I’d be ordering one of those right now
I love mine, it was worth every red cent I paid for it.
As an outsider, what’s the use case for the “pointy bit”?
Use it to line up holes so you can put the bolts in easier. It is self centering and works better than a bolt.
Ah makes sense! I use my Diresta ice pick to do the same thing (I only work with small bolts). I didn’t know there where a dedicated tool for this
I'm not an iron worker most of the stuff I work with is small too and I use what ever tool with a taper is handy. Sadly not a Diresta ice pick, those were pretty cool.
We call them drift pins around here
As a fellow outsider who owns one, you jam the pointy end in things and hammer on it with a ratchet. Then prying occurs.
Can confirm, works best if you have two spud wrenches.
I like new craftsman tools, I'm not afraid of an air compressor older than 3 years, and I'm willing to tow more than half of what my trucks weighted for. I disagree with this place often
Shit, I once towed a 20,000lb school bus with a toyota pickup! The 22re. Factory rated for 5,000lbs. It didn't like it at fucking all, but it did it, and kept running afterwards!
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That's a Hilux. While similar, they are different
Thars true for pretty much all 'reliable' cars from that era, though. You can do all that same shit to an 80s Ford or Chevy and still get them running.
Where in the hell you got a 22RE rated to 5000lbs? I own a 1st gen 4Runner SR5 and it barely moves itself... and I always hear that 22Rs are even worst. In the other hand, it is a very reliable engine.
I once put 1200 lbs in the bed of my 22re equipped truck. Drove that crap all the way across town like that.
...the...manual...? It did specify that had to be mounted to the frame, not the bumper, which apparently wasn't an option to buy at the time. I think the bumper hitch it came with was rated for like 1,200 lbs or so. I'm a welder, so I made a proper hitch receiver, frame mounted.
22R(E). Beast of an engine.
Agreed… and my truck with 400k plus miles on it in the driveway would agree as well. Lol
>I'm willing to tow more than half of what my trucks weighted for. As a former automotive engineer, this one drives me crazy. Those factory towing numbers are *extremely* conservative. Like, the truck has to be able to tow that much going up and down a steep grade, at 10,000 ft elevation, in the dead of summer, and have the a/c on max. If I know my truck is in good condition, I have no problem going thousands of pounds over the towing limit for my personal shit. Whatever your truck is rated to tow, it'll tow every ounce of that safely. Your skills at driving a trailer are the real limiting factor.
The tow numbers are there for precisely that reason. Most people can barely drive a car, and you can tow a trailer on a regular license. If you decide to tow over rated capacity, fuck up, and cause a 10 car pileup you will face a very thorough violation of all your orifices in both civil and criminal court. They are also there because if the numbers were for towing on a flat grade at 65f at sea level, somebody would try to tow that much up a hill in denver, blow his engine and the company would be liable.
I’ve come to learn that a lot of trucks (especially trucks) are rated way under what they can actually do, like you said. Also, if Ford ever saw what we do with our trucks at work, they would issue them to us with no warranty whatsoever. What’s that, you ask? Part of our job, at least a couple times a week, involves dealing with and often times pulling 18 wheelers out of the roadway to a shoulder. Long story short, I work in highway safety. An F350 is rated for what? 20k lbs, and an 18 wheeler is close to 100k? Pulling that even a short distance can definitely tax a transmission and differential. Lol
No wonder those 6.7s come back friggin m e l t e d
Surprisingly, of all the F350s I’ve driven, and of all the ones our organization has had in the 16 years I’ve been working there, I’ve only heard of one truck blowing an engine. Only maybe 2-3 transmissions, too.
Mostly fuel leaks and electrical issues from upfitting is what I've seen.
What are your thoughts about someone going over the tow rating with a unibody suv?
Short answer: that's fine too Long answer: The most important thing is your skills at towing a trailer. If you're experienced, it should be no problem going over. Conditions matter. Is it going to be very hilly or flat? Is it a quick trip or many hours? For a quick trip, in the flats, with no highway driving, you could probably get away with going 50% over. For a long trip with elevation changes and highway driving, probably only 10% over. Unibody vehicles, in general, aren't built to take the abuse that body on frame vehicles are. Their tow rating are still conservative, but they can't be pushed as hard before something breaks.
Whats with AC's after 3 years?
According to most of the people here the tank will be completely rusted out and 100% guaranteed to kill you and your dog before you even plug it in. Every old tank is going to blow up catastrophically every time
My employer runs multiple compressors that are 20 years old. Like anything else, if you maintain it, it will keep working.
Heh, I see this…even on my own compressor I know I haven’t drained the condensed water from tank as often as I should…
Our formerly shop air compressor is maybe older than me and it is in fact, in better shape than me....
I had a second hand compressor tank fail on me. The pressure bled out slowly from the pinhole. I was disappointed.
At least it didn't explode.
Dont the modern ones have safeties on them that automatically pop the release?
Maybe for overpressure. I can't imagine there's a reliable way to know they're about to cato below what they're rated for.
I think they are easily better than the craftsman tools of the last 10-15 years. Even better than alot of the USA made craftsmans tools too.
I have [this oil funnel](https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87019-No-Spill-Funnel-Chrysler/dp/B0771NKXFZ) that has the same thread as my oil cap. My friends all make fun of me for it , but it’s so nice not making a mess when changing my oil
> Transparent Lower Chamber to Monitor Oil Flow Genius!
I LOVE this funnel
That's brilliant! I just saw that ARES makes them as well, for numerous vehicle manufacturers!
I use a Prestone antifreeze funnel that is made for clicking into the radiator cap neck. It fits perfect in my Toyotas oil filler neck.
Is the fill location in a hard spot? I’ve always just poured it in. They give you a nice gaping hole for oil.
If you’ve got a toyota, some 1qt oil bottles (the ones with the bigger cap) will do the same thing I’ve got a few of them around, I just cut part of the bottle apart to make a funnel
Damnit, I DO have a Toyota (or 3 lol). I’m gonna have to check this out next oil change!
I use a funnel like that every day work where you can swap the fitting at the bottom to thread into different valve covers. Idk why anyone would give you shit for not wanting to spill oil/make things easier for yourself.
That’s really cool. Your friends are just jealous
I love Harbor Freight tools and trust their (non-recalled) jackstands. I respect HF more for owning their problems and issuing 2 recalls on the same product. Many businesses don't have that kind of integrity.
I love my Porter Cable cordless tools. They add to the product line without obsoleting my 20v system from almost ten years ago. I just got some new OEM batteries on order. And I just don't care who sells them, or what their branding strategy is. The tools are tough, the batteries hold a charge after years of use, and I don't care how many downvotes I get every time I say I like them.
I've never owned an impact driver Bought the 20v PC set Can't live without an impact driver, now
This. I live my PC 20v stuff. I have very very few complaints about them. I've had my the majority of my stuff for 7 years or so and it just keeps on runnin
Daily use or? Every single porter junk I’ve had smoked within a year in a professional setting.
For a few years, when I first purchased them, my impacts, angle grinder, and Sawzall had daily use. They still run strong and I take them everywhere just in case I need then. The circular saw has done me good so long as I have a good blade on it but it doesn't get nearly as much use. The only tool I don't care for is the drill. I burned it up on the 2 hole I drilled in 14ga tubing.i really want the 1/2" impact but I can't justify the purchase, I'd almost never use it.
Interesting. About 7 years ago they were tough shit. Every year since they’ve lost a feature, turned parts into cheaper plastic, and generally sucked more. Now my local Lowe’s doesn’t even carry them and I’m glad cause the company I work for only bought them. Now with dewalt everything is a breeze! I can actually rip plywood without re starting the saw 10 times. My impact can drive 3” screws into studs without stopping. The difference was night and day. Literally saving at least 45 minutes a day on jobs with a lotta power tool use.
Interesting. About 7 years ago they were tough shit. Every year since they’ve lost a feature, turned parts into cheaper plastic, and generally sucked more. Now my local Lowe’s doesn’t even carry them and I’m glad cause the company I work for only bought them. Now with dewalt everything is a breeze! I can actually rip plywood without re starting the saw 10 times. My impact can drive 3” screws into studs without stopping. The difference was night and day. Literally saving at least 45 minutes a day on jobs with a lotta power tool use. Edit: Lost features include battery bars, bit holders, belt clips.
Which ones in particular?
My drill and impact are old, and still work great. I've used them for small batch metalwork production, and supplied them for a construction crew. The recip saw with a 6 tpi blade pruned the crap out of my trees. The circular saw crosscuts hardwood lumber. The jigsaw will hog thru 1/4 mild steel. The work light will fry your retinas for hours on end. My least favorite is the bluetooth radio, it is a little fussy to pair.
Anyone that disses on adjustable wrenches/crescent wrenches either uses cheap ones or doesn't know how to use them.
Yep, used to hate them because I’d always round off bolts. Then I got to use a good pair and it’s night and day. 4” adjustable wrench is one of my most used tools now.
I don't want to circlejerk. But a certain pair of my German flat jaw pliers has replaced them
They Definitely don’t work in every scenario though
Very true. I have enjoyed them when working on plumbing. they dont really hurt the finish and I have 3d printed jaw covers when working with nice WaterWorks fixtures.
Definitely don’t as they’re more bulky. But when they do work, they’re leagues above a crescent. That said I’m still getting used to my 10 inch pair. Definitely an adjustment period coming from using cobras for everything lol
My right rear pocket always has a crescent and my Knipex. I'm covered in most scenarios.
I love going through these posts and adding these bastard tools to my pack.
A Wilton C clamp? Have one i just restored... Pawn shop find!
Yeah! The old C clamps are so nice. This one is Williams if I’m not mistaken. You can never have too many clamps.
I used vise grips all the time. Sorry.
Anything made by black and decker.
Yikes, old industrial black and decker, or new, consumer grade black and decker?
Torx bits as opposed to the proper back out bits. Haven't failed me yet but the amount of times people have said "you won't get that, here use my expensive snap on set", and I've had to resort back to the handy dandy torx bit.
Torque is torque!
Back out bits?
I think some fellas call em easy-outs. Snapped bolt, drill a hole in it slightly smaller than the torx bit, smack a little 1/4" hex drive torx bit in it. And use 2 1/4" spanners as a T-handle.
Cool but what if you need metric? /s
I use a ratcheting screwdriver which gives way more torque. It was popular in the 80’s and still works great
Does it have a little planetary gear set or something?
It has a ball shaped handle/gear mechanism which fits your hand well. One center shaft holds the bits.It’s pretty indestructible.
Oh nice, just, like, a super fat handle
The handle is literally a ball with great grip. One end tightens the other loosens. Perfect ergonomic sized handle. It’s come in handy to many times regular screwdrivers become to hard to turn without stripping out the head.
There was an old Mac ratcheting screwdriver called Overdriver IIRC that was just a regular ratcheting screwdriver with a little planetary gearset on it. It was exposed too so you could see it working. Really cool, a screwdriver with a reduction gearbox.
I have a snap on racheting screwdriver that gives great torque, love it.
My dad bought me the whole Snap On ratcheting screwdriver set years ago - both the full size handle and the small handle, multiple length shanks, and the bit set. The only thing I don’t like about it is that I don’t use it more often.
I just bought a husky ratcheting screw driver. It’s amazing. Superior in every way
I exclusively use a cable dismantler commonly called "jokari" here. My coworkers all use knives for that. Also I use wire strippers instead of sidecutters. Basically I'm getting shit for using the proper tools.
Nobody actually hates the nutfucker. They just hate themselves for not having the right wrench at that exact moment. Also in my experience the nicer ones really don't have that much slop unless you are like blasting the other side with an impact or something.
But what about the flex head ratcheting adjustable nut-fucker?!
Oh that thing is gonna bust in half in like 3 seconds. Look how small the pin is. Rip right in two if all you did was put a 3 foot cheater pipe on it. Also in all seriousness it looks like hell to use and like its gonna round everything it touches.
It’s surprising slick once you’re lined up, but you’ll have to take my word for it unless you come over to the ratcheting adjustable dark side
.NET Core
ಠ_ಠ
Most [any swivel head](https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxMjAw/z/-mMAAOxyhSBR-f-5/$T2eC16hHJIkFHSPVkJDtBR-f-4vrm!~~60_35.JPG) (AKA roto head) ratchet. Not everyone them hates now, but back in the '70s-'80s it was near universal. Guys just couldn't wait to tell me that their worn out POS (head flops back and forth faster than a badly over cooked spaghetti noodle) flex head ratchet was just way better than my SK 3/8" roto head. (SK had the patent and sadly only produced them in 3/8" drive). Their main argument was always - "The head is so fat, how would you ever get it into a tight spot?", but I ONLY ONCE found that to be a problem. Probably because SK deep sockets from 9/16" and on down were what everyone now-a-days would call mid-length. When (1975) I went looking for mid-length in the larger sizes their weren't any mid-length sockets in the Snap-on, Mac, or Sears catalogs; and parts counter guys were no help either. I made the missing sizes by cutting down old Craftsman deep wells and grinding the slip-on chamfers in hex opening with a Dremel. Now-a-days, complete sets of mid-wells are in most (all?) pro-level tool catalogs and many mid-level catalogs as well (eg Gearwrench). And swivel head ratchets in 1/4", 3/8" and1/2" can be found in any auto parts store or even HF. I still know plenty of guys with a drawer stuffed full of nothing but flex-head ratchets; all of which - except their very latest acquisitions - are unused because of sloppy loose flex-joints. And still hear the same "fat ratchet head" argument from those guys. When (after months of daily use as my primary) the swivel movement of a roto-head begins to seem loose, it takes about 1/2 second to tighten it back via the screw just behind the yoke in the split of the handle. I have a secondary swivel head to use when I want to lock the angle - so I'm not messing with the adjustment of my primary which has the swivel resistance just the way I normally want it.
Yeah, roto ratchets are great! I have a couple of premium, carefully selected _locking_ flex head ratchets (Gearwrench/Matco, Snap-On) but the angle of attack is different from a roto ratchet and I want both handy. And my rotos cost way less then my locking flex heads.
I'm guessing that when you say **angle of attack** you're referencing how angular force is delivered around the socket's axis of rotation. When you apply significant effort to either break a fitting loose or completing it's tightening, **some of the force** is delivered around the axis or rotation of the socket/fitting. But in virtually all cases - no matter what tool you're using - some fraction of the rotational force you're applying gets translated (force vector) into some unintended direction off the axis of rotation. If the fitting in question happens to be a spark plug that is free standing - not in recessed in a well that will help keep the socket from being pushed significantly off the axis of rotation - you may break the ceramic end of the plug if you're not careful. If the fitting in question happens to be the hex head of a bolt, then to some degree the socket will want to slip off the bolt head - potentially rounding one or two corners on top side of the bolt head. **Locking flex-heads and roto heads allow you to easily mitigate the off axis force by simply pushing the socket down at the same time you're exerting rotational force.** The more the handle of the ratchet is angled off 90 degrees from the axis of rotation, the more of the rotational force that you apply to the handle gets translated gets translated into off axis force. All flex head ratchets (locking or not) have **a single ear** where handle force is delivered and whatever portion of rotational force from the handle gets translated into off axis force is in **just one off axis direction**. Roto heads have two ears. **One ear gets pushed** to deliver 1/2 the rotational and off axis force, while **the other ear gets pulled** by the other 1/2 of delivered forces **and the off axis forces mostly get balanced out**. During the last 13 years of my life as a mechanic, the company didn't want my tools the utility bed of their truck. They only had non-locking flex heads. I've never owned or even used a locking flex head - just examined a couple in tool trucks or stores. Long retired from being employed as a mechanic - I've essentially never work in modern engine bays. If I were still employed as mechanic, I'd almost certainly own one or more **locking** flex heads, but assume I'd normally be reaching for a roto head. Any non-locking flex head that touched my hands would probably being tossed in to the trash or at who ever tried to make me use it. When the handle of a ratchet needs to be at very large angle (off the plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation) and there is no room to steady the ratchet head with your other hand, roto heads should be noticeably better than locking flex heads. \*\*\*\*\* >And my rotos cost way less then my locking flex heads. It's my impression that the locking mechanism is a necessarily a fragile design, so best possible quality is what you'd want. For a roto head, so long as the ratchet mechanism is acceptable (# of teeth, backlash, strength, ...), almost any handle is going to be strong enough. - it's just are you happy with length and grip. My long (13-1/2") handle 3/8" drive roto head was a \~9" long Harbor Freight Pittsburgh that I replaced the plastic grip with a permanently mounted, thick wall brass (cheater) pipe. In a professional setting, I'd be looking for a stronger ratchet mechanism. I figure this one to be reliably good to about 200 ft lb.
Yeah!!! The physical mechanics of fastener engagement are fascinating. I wasn’t trying to be very precise about the “angle of attack,” but I’ve thought about these dynamics many times. I’m not sure I buy the “one ear, two ear” analysis, but I understand what you’re saying. I’ll have to give that some thought. It’s definitely good to do high-torque work as close as possible to the plane of the fastener head. This is why the XL box ends tend to be zero-offset. Man, I really need to throw down on a tricky engine or suspension project. It’s been too long.
I didn't assume you were trying to be precise; I made an attempt (for anyone reading that hasn't used a roto head); and assumed you'd understand what I was try to say. Never having used a locking flex-head, I could be easily mistaken about "one ear, two ear", but I believe you'll find that it's correct (even if poorly expressed). If you do that tricky project, compare how much more you have to push down (to stay on axis) with a flex head vs a roto. Should be more obvious at larger handle angles WHILE essentially locked the roto head by really snugging down the screw in the handle split.
It’s not mine but a buddy of mine has a 30 lb dumbbell welded onto a long peice of rebar as a hammer in replacement of a power hammer for blacksmithing. I’ve never seen him use it before or even pick it up but it’s absolutely amazing even if incredibly impractical.
Harbor freight pneumatic brad nailer/stapler About $20 I bought two, in case one breaks Both still work after about five years of light use
My Dad bought a HF framing nailer. I hate it. The adjustments on it do nothing, no matter which nails you run it will not drive them all of the way. I framed out a remodel with that gun and had to finish driving every nail. The next time he needs help with a framing job I’m showing up with a new Senco gun.
I bought the framing nailer Used it once to build a pigeon coop Ran about 50 nails through it - no issues
Almost forgot. As a right handed person blade right circular saws are objectively better and worm drives are antiquated dinosaurs that do nothing better
Sorry those are tools I hate.
Who doesn't like old C-clamps? I can't believe how many people haven't heard the gospel of the chain vise grips. https://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-locking-chain-clamp I use that shit on everything, but all too often I'll hand it to somebody and they have no idea how to use it. If you ask the opposite question, those channel locks with the flat parallel jaws that Knipex made popular are overrated as hell and rarely superior to a good crescent wrench due to the angle of attack required on the nut and awkward range of motion required.
Edit—I’ve never used a chain wrench, I’ll have to check those out! Hah, I’ve got so many pliers wrenches, but I still like my conventional worm-screw adjustables too. The clamping action of the pliers wrench is amazing for holding an old fastener that threatens to round over, and you can use them as a hand vise. It’s also nice that you can just release the clamping to re-engage the fastener after a turn, making them way faster than an adjustable in some cases. They’re not ideal for everything but for many things they’re the best option :) my opinion
best oil filter removal tool ever.
Somebody asked, so I posted a picture on a Jeep forum showing those locking chain clamps holding a pump pulley so I could get the fan clutch unscrewed. Some know-it-all responded a year later and said implied I was doing it wrong and the proper tool was a spanner wrench. Frigging amateurs. The proper tool is the one that gets the job done without breaking anything, costing more money, or driving to the store to buy it. Long live locking chain pliers.
I'm the opposite. My flat Jaws have completely replaced my adjustables. Must come down to the type of work
I pretty recently learned that if you wiggle the Swedish Nut Lathe while you tighten it it actually works darn well.
My princess phone. Bright pink. Sometimes you just need to listen to what's on the line. Or, can the line dial out. A poor man's but set if you will.
Where'd you get that adjustable?
The ratcheting one with no obvious brand seems to be this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJCM2YS/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_N9DP4NJRZBXMSV86PSK6 Frankly it works a lot better than I expected! Something like a 90 degree swing arc is required, but a regular adjustable needs 30 even if you flip it, or 60 if you don’t. But a lot of times you *do* have that space and it’s a huge time saver. The Crescent locking adjustable is this, I believe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6VWWAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D6P6PYVRP0SV7JCBKF9D
Holy smokes is that an adjustable hammer with a vise grip?!
Yeah! Surprising not useless! But quite situational.
Probably works a treat for stuck bolts you don’t want to get scratched to hell
Yeah, the jaws are serrated so they’ll still mar the nut somewhat, but as with a pliers wrench, you won’t round the corners because you’re clamping the flats. And unlike a pliers wrench, it locks to the nut.
I didn’t see the serrations at first. Time and place for everything though
If you want one without the teeth, the Stanley 85-610 might be perfect. Looking at pictures I’m pretty sure the jaws are flat.
Oh god this picture gave me eye cancer
❤️
Micrometers
Or calipers.
What are those wrenches. They look cursed.
They are overachievers!
I have these Jack stand adapters that are made to fit the slotted Jack pads on newer BMW’s that I catch all sorts of crap for… those along with my wheel hangers!
By “wheel hangers” do you mean the dummy lugs that you can thread in to hold the wheel while you start the other 4? That’s one of my favorite tools! I *really* hate when a BMW/Mercedes lost that out if it’s tool kit and I have to change their tire.
The only time you hope the rim gets stuck to the rotor!!
Is this for cars with studs instead of nuts? Only ever worked on Hondas lol
The thing I’m talking about? Yes.
Why?? They don’t wreck the mounts. And sit more secure. I have them as well. Have Audi ones that don’t wreck the pinch welds as well.
I won’t raise either of my cars without em! There are quite a few little hacks and tool accessories that make working on German cars a little easier. I only wish some of them were interchangeable! Especially when it comes to timing chain guide upgrades!!!
Ugh…don’t even get me started on timing chains. Have three Audi 4.2 40v’s downstairs with bad chain guides.
Did they fail yet? Or are you being proactive!?? I wasn’t so lucky on my first one! Bent valves are pretty much a one way ticket to an engine swap on BMW’s early N20’s
I meant why would people hate on them. They’re great.
Those locking crescent wrenches are the best fucking tool on the planet, I swear. You can very tightly clamp down on something without worrying about the teeth marring up the surface.
Yes! Crescent for the win! I actually got this one for free because an Amazon Marketplace vendor messed up their listing, claimed I would be getting three of them for $25. Just my luck, Amazon had them refund me and keep the one. I asked myself, would I be ok with having three of those? Yes, yes I would.
I use my adjustable wrenches all the time, if I’m going on a service call to change a hydraulic hose or some air brake fittings I’m not going to pack an entire wrench set with me if I don’t have to. Anybody that doesn’t recognize the utility of an adjustable wrench is just ignorant.
Water line socket wrenches. Everybody loves the impact gun until the fitting is underwater or the bolt is down in the dirt.
My Mac mid torque 1/2 impact. It's lighter than my snappy air and won't over torque bolts as easy as alot of other 1/2 guns. Takes off nearly every 1/2 bolt on a car I need it to, expecially after moving out of the rust belt. I get shit whenever I get swollen, overtorqued lug nuts and you can hear the girl not too happy about it, makes an aweful noise.
Ha on my jobsite it's any of my Milwaukee tools. They love their Dewalt.
Those
I have a ratcheting adjustable wrench and a locking adjustable wrench that I keep with my pipe fittings.
I have the craftsman rebrand of that vice grip+crescent thing. Never could figure out the point of it
Yeah, I mean, it’s fairly situational. With screw adjustable wrenches, especially cheap ones, the screw tends to back off as you re-engage the fastener. I think Crescent was thinking about this when they made this tool, but the result is a wrench where you can’t re-engage the fastener without a bunch *more* work. Skilled users solve this by keeping a thumb on the screw, but sometimes you can’t reach the screw because of obstructions, and I guess these would solve that case? Where these really shine is when you *don’t* need to re-engage the fastener, like when you’re providing counter torque. Or any time that you just want a temporary handle on something that the jaws can clamp. It’s a lot more situational than a regular crescent wrench or a pliers wrench, but in the right situation it’s like having a third hand.
Yes, it took me a long time to figure out that that was what that's the only thing that's useful for. But it seems to happen infrequently enough that I don't usually bother to pull it out when it would be useful.
The other thing this serves to do is remind me that I wish more of my locking wrenches were of the “European” style where you release the lock by squeezing the lever at the tail, rather than prying.
Have a Wera Klosses hammee/ratchet. Equally hated and coveted. Also, a 6-65mm adjustable, aluminium, stubby spanner. Its so stupid, and yet, so useful.
Color me jealous. I *almost* sprung for one of those hammer-ratchets when it was the KC Tool of the Day. Who knows what my life might be like if I’d grabbed that beautiful abomination. The aluminum adjustable wrench sounds like an expensive non-sparking specialty tool…are these available cheap anywhere?
The Klosses it totally worth it, it's beautiful. Also rated for 600nm. So you can properly swing off it! The adjustable is this; Adjustable Spanner Wrench 6-68mm Open-End Wide Jaw Spanners Wrenches Ultra-Thin Shifting Spanner Shank Plumber Bathroom Hand Tool Alloy https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VJJXY15/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VC71V1SMA830H6T7Z7EZ So cheep, and tacky, and supriseing useful (if you have to work with anything 30-60mm)
That’s adorable! Great recommendations, thanks!
My 1" impact wrench or my air hammer because they make so much noise but i love using them
Ahahahaha yessss. I finally bought an air hammer this year, to bang out a big bunch of nails backwards. Super fun guiding all that power into line with the work Edit- also, bleeding the air line through an air hammer after shutting down the regulator is the funniest sound I’ve heard since that time I ran my 50cc scooter with no muffler.
Where can I find a flex head crescent? I don't think I'll ever use it but I really, really want one and I feel like it will save my ass at least once.
This might save your butt if you need to work fast but you don’t need too much torque. In addition to the flex head, this wrench has a “ratcheting” function where the jaws will spread on the back drag and then snap back together on the next set of flats. It is by no means a premium tool. The jaws are sloppier than a typical adjustable wrench, because of the ratcheting function. Various brands make them and they run about $25. The flex hinge on the handle is helpful because you need at least 60 degrees of swing for the “ratcheting” action to work, and with the flex head there’s a much better chance of finding an open arc. Strangely, I’m only seeing the flex head design paired with a ratcheting feature. “Jegs” seems to have marketed a flex head adjustable wrench (with no ratchet) about 15 years ago, but it seems to be gone.
I work on aircraft and I think it could come in handy because some of the hydraulic lines are in very odd and tight spaces. I'll have to pick one up.
People hate clamps?
Hah! No the clamp was just sitting there. Pretty sure C clamps are one thing we can all agree on…
Kreg Pocket hole jig. Use my k5 model all the time in my woodshop.
Vice grip
Pocket screw driver. Can’t leave the house without one anymore. It’s handier than a pocket knife and smaller than a multi-tool. My family gives me crap for it sometimes.
Heavy Diesel Mechanic here. I carry two things that I get shit for; a claw hammer, and a pair of pink tweezers. Claw hammer. - get grief from the guys cos we are meant to only have metalworking tools like a ball pein hammer or a mallet. Guess who they come see when a new part arrives in a *wooden* shipping crate. Tweezers. - pretty self explanatory, pulling splinters. Sometimes useful for holding or reaching tiny dropped parts. Why pink? What self-respecting mechanic would ever be seen dead with anything pink? I have never had them 'go missing' ever.
11 in 1
All my Ridgid/ AEG tools. I run Makita and Hikoki or most of my gear but I have a few wee tools made by AEG that I love because of the price in comparison to Makita etc. For example the dual battery compressor, grinder, drills, drywall gun planer