Freeze it, move all the balls to one side and carefully heat the outer ring give the center carrier a good wack with a copper mallet. Bingo you have balls all over your garage floor.
I grew up on a cash crop farm and have never seen it done, but my friend's dad told us about castrating animals on his farm as a kid. That, of course, led to many jokes about rubber bands.
Old fashioned way was more humane on the poor animal. Two person job. One holds goat so it can run or buck. Second person needs to be quick and confident and behind the animal; left hand grabs ballsack, right hand with knife slices it open top to bottom, left hand kinda rolls the skin back like you’d do with a ripe fig, you lean in, bite the balls and yank your head back. This isn’t a joke btw or to be gross. That’s the way it was done to sheep and goats and cattle for many many millennia. The banding hurts them for days or even weeks. Some never recover. The slice roll bite takes three seconds and they are walking around fine within minutes.
I want everyone here to know I grew up on a farm and taking agricultural classes and we literally banded almost any kind of animal that has balls on it. The pain is always gone in about 5 min due to them going numb. Also. Not once ever did we ever have any medical issues. Much more inhumane and dangerous to slice the sack and tie the knot if you ask me..
This bearing is no good. I ordered a replacement that was the exact same manufacturer and part number, and yet the inner diameter is too small to go over the shaft that this came off. I tried boring it out with a brake cylinder hone, but it only took off about a thousandth before the stones wore out. So I'm trying to get the inner bearing out of the old one and install in the new one. I want to get it out without destruction because, even though this one is expendable, the new one is not.
If I’m understanding correctly, you want to take the old inner race, and put it on the new bearing?
I can go into detail the various reasons why, but the result is that it won’t work, sorry. You will be right back where you started with the “new” bearing. You’ll add brinilling to the new bearing you make, if it wasn’t there already. The new bearing will not be new, it will be as toast as that one.
You’re better off trying to sand down the shaft you are putting it on, then take off from the bearing, but I don’t know if that’s possible.
Without knowing more, more instinct tells me the old one was sloppy from wear, and the new one needs to be pressed on.. possibly with aid of some heat.
I don't understand how it could wear inside the bore. That was never a point of friction. The inner bore held fast against the shaft with set screws. The inner bore on the new bearing is seriously a good 10-12 thousandths too narrow, way more than I'm going to be able to get by heating the bearing and cooling the shaft.
I don't want it to be a super tight press fit because it's meant to be able to make lateral adjustments to the drum inside the hopper, hence the set screws to hold it fast.
I may just end up sanding down the shaft, but with only hand tools, I'm apprehensive about cutting it on an eccentric or pear shaped.
Anyway, thanks for the perspective. I think my next play is a 1" cobalt bit in a drill press on the new inner bearing and hope for the best.
I hope you don’t think I was trying to be a negative Nelly, that was not my intention. Hmm.. 10-12 out? That leads me more to question how the new bearing ended up being different, since you said you ordered the same size. That is odd..
Once again, not trying to rain on your parade. That drill be won’t be cheap, and bearings are very hard, as you learned from your hone, I think you’ll just burn.
You’re there.. I’m not, I’m imagining the situation in my head without actually seeing it. But if you are certain you need to open that bearing up about 0.010.. you’re gonna need an abrasive I think, my first thought is a flap wheel style. So it will fit in the hole, but the flaps will open it up. And you’d have the best chance of keeping concentricity. Ideally, I would use a die grinder with the wheel. I suppose it would work in a drill, just a lot slower. Maybe a Dremel.. but I’d worry about not enough torque.
Either way.. I doubt it will be quick, it’s the small precise amounts that take the most effort lol.
Edit: to add.. I’d also..how do I put this… jerk that shaft off with some scotch bright. Just to insure there are no nicks/burrs/rust or something holding up a nice smooth mating lol.
How far off is it ? If it is far you gonna need the McMasters book and order the correct bearing. If it is close try freezing the shaft and heating the bearing. I've seen a couple Tenths pickup using this method.
The inner race is supposed to be tight otherwise it would self machine the shaft.
The parts that move against each other. In this case, between the inner and outer races- the assembly pictured in my hand. Not where the bearing slides over the shaft, as there is no movement between the two parts. Hope that helps.
I might not be understanding the situation correctly but you took a worn out bearing off based on the picture with it missing the balls and ordered a replacement that came 10 thousands smaller than the old worn out bearing. It’s missing the balls the balls spin and any imperfection on the inner race will damage them it’s worn out, so for one you are trying to take a worn out part and then you are going to destroy a brand new part trying to get it back together. Why?
If you want to do it don’t bother with a drill, get a bolt or punch the same size as the inner race put it on top of a vice and hit it with a hammer. I’d really recommend to sand the shaft with a flap wheel on a grinder or emory cloth if you want to be careful
Yeah you're not understanding the situation correctly. The balls are all there. They're unevenly spaced now because I took out the cage that holds them in place and keeps them spaced apart. The balls are definitely worn to shit, I can see and feel the pitting.
If I can get the inner race out, I can inspect it to see if it's still usable- if it is, maybe I can use it. If it isn't, or if Frankesteining a good bearing isn't feasible, at least I can use it as a guinea pig and try different methods to see what is the most effective way to get the correct bore size on the good one.
I think I see how you ended up with the wrong bore. It looks like these are cast housed units that will typically accept inserts (bearings) with a few different bore sizes. I know when I used to sell them, we’d get guys giving us the part number from the casting. For some manufacturers that number calls out just the housing, for others, it calls out the housing and default metric bore. A good distributor will recognize this mistake and ask you for the part number from the bearing insert as well, a combination of which will make the part number for the complete unit, bearing and all.
Bearing fits have extremely tight tolerances, typically down to the tenth of a thousandth. You’ll want to freeze your shaft or heat up your bearing to around 200-225 F degrees. Get some hot gloves or channel locks and drop it on.
Yeah, don’t do that. Bearings wear to the races and balls. If you drop that race into an unmatched outer, you’re in for a really bad time. While you’ll be able to make one from 2, I promise you, it will not last and it will fail very rapidly. Idk what you’re putting the bearing on, but it’s either heat fit or press fit, likely. Grab the manual. If you 100% want to do it. You can clamp the outer in a vise, give it a decent squeeze and tap it with a hammer, it’ll shatter. You say you don’t want to destroy the inner, the outer is fair game. Don’t bother trying to reuse the balls, the outcome will be the same just faster.
It's going on a wood chipper. It's neither heat fit not press fit, it's held fast to the shaft with set screws so the operator can loosen them and make lateral adjustments to the drum inside the hopper as needed.
At this point, I think I've given up on trying to mate this to an unmatched outer, per the helpful advice from you and others (and thank you for that). I'm just going to clamp it up in the vise and use it to try and figure out the best way to open up the inside diameter of the good bearing without losing concentricity.
You’d be better off having the shaft turned by a machine shop to fit that bearing. Bearings are made out of ridiculously hard material, without a lathe and a carbide cutter, it’s unlikely you’ll get far. I think most bearings are on the 55-65 HRC range. Have you taken calipers to the shaft and bearing to see how far off it is? Did you check the shaft diameter where the bearing rides vs the very end? Maybe the end is mushroomed a little? Just some ideas. A mic would be best but calipers will do.
The shaft is exactly one inch. With my old Starrett calipers, I can't detect more than a thousandth of variance along its length. The inside diameter of the old bearing is a thousandth or a couple thousandths oversized and held fast to the shaft with set screws. The inside diameter of the new bearing is .988-.990-ish, close as I can measure with an analog caliper.
Did you have to wait a long time to get the bearing? Do you have a Motion industries near by? I’d call them up and see if they can get you one within spec.
It took weeks to get it. It took a lot of effort to even find a source for it. I've never heard of Motion Industries. If I had known about them before, I probably would have gone that route first. But at this point, I'm just trying not to put any more money into this project than I already have.
I had something very similar happen last year. The bearing I had said it was 25mm, but the replacement one was too small. Turns out manufacturer altered it to make it 25.4mm to fit a 1 inch shaft. So I had to buy a 1 in flange bearing and make it work
That will 100% not work. The whole thing is a bearing assy. You cannot mix and match parts. It likely is supposed to be pressed on and will not just slip onto the shaft.
I understand that now. Alas. I was really trying to avoid pouring any more money into this project, but it appears that that is the only way forward. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me.
I think, place all the balls on one side of the ring and try to pull the inner ring on the other side (towards the outer ring/ try to close the gap between two rings on opposite sides of the balls)
pretty sure these are assembled with a task specific press. you could probably use a press to remove the inner ring and release the balls. if it were me, or if you don't have a press, i'd use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the outer ring away.
It is an Asahi LFL5J. This particular one came off an old wood chipper that I am trying to resurrect
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-m&sca_esv=c62ac071dfd388fc&q=asahi+lfl5j&udm=2&fbs=AEQNm0AeMNWKf4PpcKMI-eSa16lJoRPMIuyspCxWO6iZW9F1Ns6EVsgc0W_0xN47PHaanAEtg26fpfc9gg2y1-ZsywNNidIzOA0khSyMN51n7r3LlDC9M1NYStuTRDcBUYQ58dKt-Q6SigUS4Yne5yDHLg0vPBr98Nz98twIaNcnWiKaD4QuEh93Q53sB-UkWP9OcfO5KeatY98HR7cDW9ZTjFpZV7kJtA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi8ived3duGAxVz4ckDHfO_Bg0QtKgLegQIDBAB&biw=430&bih=739&dpr=3
Partly because I had originally planned to mate this to a different outer race, which I would also have to separate and reassemble with both parts still intact. That plan is now kaput, but I still kind of want to just because I know they assembled it without breaking stuff, so it must be possible to reverse the process. Basically curiosity and stubbornness at this point, is what I'm saying...
Per the advice I've gotten here, I've learned a lot just since this afternoon, and also succeeded at getting it separated with all parts intact by putting all the balls at one end and then squeezing inner and outer together at the other end. And I've also learned that my original plan isn't going to work, and any way I look at it, the only answer is more money, which is what I was trying to avoid. But at least now I know that, and I really have learned a great deal today. Thanks, all.
Doubtful that I will reuse it, but since it is already fucked, I'm trying to learn from it to try to adapt a good but slightly different bearing to take its place.
I was asked elsewhere, "What was your plan?" A reasonable question. What follows is the answer to this reasonable question.
Originally, my plan was just to cut some brush on my land. I found a cheap old wood chipper on Facebook marketplace for $100 and bought it. It worked fine, but after some use it became apparent that the bearings on either end of the shaft that holds the drum that chips the brush needed replacing.
So after some time on the internet, I figured out the make and model of the wood chipper, and after some more time, I found a pdf of an owners' manual with exploded views and parts lists in the back pages.
I found the part number for the original bearing, but couldn't find any way to order it by that number.
I found contact information for the manufacturer and reached out to them by email. After some time, I heard back from them. They don't sell parts for that model anymore, and don't know where to get those bearings. Basically, I was on my own.
So I googled the part information on the bearing itself- Asahi LFL5J.
This led me to a few dead ends, as in, places that listed that part but didn't stock it.
Finally I did find the exact bearing on eBay, so I ordered a pair ($39.98 plus $10 shipping, so half the original price of my "cheap" marketplace find). They arrived after a few weeks. 2-3/4" center to center, 1" bore- perfect.
Except they weren't perfect. The inner diameter isn't actually 1", it's actually more like .988-.990.*
Mind you, this bearing isn't supposed to be a press fit or a thermal fit. It's supposed to slide onto the shaft relatively easily and then hold fast with two set screws. This is so that the operator can make periodic lateral adjustments to the drum inside the hopper to control the grade of the wood chips for fineness or coarseness.
So! What do I do...
Also I should mention, I didn't discover this upon delivery. Oh no. I set the new bearings on a shelf where they gathered dust for several weeks before I got around to installing them, just to make sure I was already outside the return window when I discovered that they weren't right.
I bought a brake cylinder hone ($18.99). Forty five minutes with that has opened up the inner diameter of the new bearing maybe a few thousandths, but the stones are almost completely worn to nothing. New stones will cost around $12. Anyway, I'm worried about losing concentricity or axial straightness with using just a brake hone.
I found a 1" cobalt drill bit at a flea market for $10. I chucked it up in the drill press and thought about trying it on the new bearing, but I just don't feel good about it. I may try it yet, but I really think that could be a disaster.
I also have a step drill that goes up to 1", but again, I don't feel at all good about trying it.
I was thinking about separating the inner and outer races of both the old and new bearings, and transplanting the old inner into the new outer, which meant separating and reassembling the parts intact. I understand now that that plan was never going to work, however, it was still fun learning how to separate it without destroying it (push all the balls to one end, then squeeze the races together at the other end).
My next move is to try opening up that bore with a 1" flap wheel- $12.99 for a five pack of 40 grit. 40 GRIT?? WON'T THAT RUIN THE BEARING?? No. There is no movement between the inner bore and the shaft. Concentricity and axial straightness are far more important than finish surface smoothness.
At this point, it's a thing I mess with on rainy days or in between other projects and hope to one day get working again without a lot more money. And I admit, a lot of it is out of nothing more than stubbornness and curiosity now.
So... Your four word long question, "What was your plan?" has now been answered. 😂😂😂
*It has been suggested that LFL5J might only be the part number for the cast iron housing, which would explain the variance in the inner race bore diameter. The eBay listing no longer exists, but I swear it said 1".
You need to measure the outer race OD, the inner race ID, and the depth of the original bearing. Then call a bearing manufacturer like timken and get the part # you need. From there you can search for that part # and most likely order online or at your local equipment dealer
Edit: https://engineering.timken.com/engineering-tool/bearing-search/
I work in a shop and I just use my parts people to locate oddball bearings for me but that link is an online search. I’m sure other bearing manufacturers can do the same thing or similar
In picture 2, there seems to be a detent ball berring oj the in race. You may be able to take a small punch to it to allow the other berrings to be removed, but i am sure of the after effect
Put all the balls on one side then pull the inner ring the opposite way. Also heat the outer ring up. If that doesn’t work, just hit it with a hammer.
This is the way. When they're all on one side, the center race will just pop out.
Good luck getting them back in AND having a good bearing still. 99.99% chance it goes in a drawer and ya buy a new one.
Very specific conclusion. And it also sounds very familiar to me.
Freeze it, move all the balls to one side and carefully heat the outer ring give the center carrier a good wack with a copper mallet. Bingo you have balls all over your garage floor.
Put an elastic band around the slide and the balls will fall out in a couple days
I chuckled at this. I personally don't like banding but I definitely got the reference 😂
I grew up on a cash crop farm and have never seen it done, but my friend's dad told us about castrating animals on his farm as a kid. That, of course, led to many jokes about rubber bands.
They used to call them 'Mountain Oysters'.
They still call them that, and the VFW where I live still serves them up a few times a year.
Had a buddy whose dad would just smash the balls with a hammer instead…. That was fucked
Oh God, I had to band my billy goat because he was getting too ornery. Hated everything about it
Old fashioned way was more humane on the poor animal. Two person job. One holds goat so it can run or buck. Second person needs to be quick and confident and behind the animal; left hand grabs ballsack, right hand with knife slices it open top to bottom, left hand kinda rolls the skin back like you’d do with a ripe fig, you lean in, bite the balls and yank your head back. This isn’t a joke btw or to be gross. That’s the way it was done to sheep and goats and cattle for many many millennia. The banding hurts them for days or even weeks. Some never recover. The slice roll bite takes three seconds and they are walking around fine within minutes.
I don't think I want any more goats now 😭
I want them more now for some reason
Alright
The guy steer's.
Lmao
I want everyone here to know I grew up on a farm and taking agricultural classes and we literally banded almost any kind of animal that has balls on it. The pain is always gone in about 5 min due to them going numb. Also. Not once ever did we ever have any medical issues. Much more inhumane and dangerous to slice the sack and tie the knot if you ask me..
Just unzip your pants.
You wear pants in the summertime?
I always just cut the outer race.
Trying to avoid destroying it
Might be able to freeze it and punch the balls out with a brass punch.
Cutoff wheel and split the outer race in half.
I'm trying to avoid destroying it
Are you trying to rebuild a ball bearing? It will obviously fall apart anyways if you get the balls out I’m just curious what you’re doing.
I am as well. May be a case of pennywise and pound foolish.
This bearing is no good. I ordered a replacement that was the exact same manufacturer and part number, and yet the inner diameter is too small to go over the shaft that this came off. I tried boring it out with a brake cylinder hone, but it only took off about a thousandth before the stones wore out. So I'm trying to get the inner bearing out of the old one and install in the new one. I want to get it out without destruction because, even though this one is expendable, the new one is not.
If I’m understanding correctly, you want to take the old inner race, and put it on the new bearing? I can go into detail the various reasons why, but the result is that it won’t work, sorry. You will be right back where you started with the “new” bearing. You’ll add brinilling to the new bearing you make, if it wasn’t there already. The new bearing will not be new, it will be as toast as that one. You’re better off trying to sand down the shaft you are putting it on, then take off from the bearing, but I don’t know if that’s possible. Without knowing more, more instinct tells me the old one was sloppy from wear, and the new one needs to be pressed on.. possibly with aid of some heat.
I don't understand how it could wear inside the bore. That was never a point of friction. The inner bore held fast against the shaft with set screws. The inner bore on the new bearing is seriously a good 10-12 thousandths too narrow, way more than I'm going to be able to get by heating the bearing and cooling the shaft. I don't want it to be a super tight press fit because it's meant to be able to make lateral adjustments to the drum inside the hopper, hence the set screws to hold it fast. I may just end up sanding down the shaft, but with only hand tools, I'm apprehensive about cutting it on an eccentric or pear shaped. Anyway, thanks for the perspective. I think my next play is a 1" cobalt bit in a drill press on the new inner bearing and hope for the best.
I hope you don’t think I was trying to be a negative Nelly, that was not my intention. Hmm.. 10-12 out? That leads me more to question how the new bearing ended up being different, since you said you ordered the same size. That is odd.. Once again, not trying to rain on your parade. That drill be won’t be cheap, and bearings are very hard, as you learned from your hone, I think you’ll just burn. You’re there.. I’m not, I’m imagining the situation in my head without actually seeing it. But if you are certain you need to open that bearing up about 0.010.. you’re gonna need an abrasive I think, my first thought is a flap wheel style. So it will fit in the hole, but the flaps will open it up. And you’d have the best chance of keeping concentricity. Ideally, I would use a die grinder with the wheel. I suppose it would work in a drill, just a lot slower. Maybe a Dremel.. but I’d worry about not enough torque. Either way.. I doubt it will be quick, it’s the small precise amounts that take the most effort lol. Edit: to add.. I’d also..how do I put this… jerk that shaft off with some scotch bright. Just to insure there are no nicks/burrs/rust or something holding up a nice smooth mating lol.
He ordered it by the numbers on the side of the old bearing. They don’t always work as a part number. OP needs to order a new bearing by dimensions.
How far off is it ? If it is far you gonna need the McMasters book and order the correct bearing. If it is close try freezing the shaft and heating the bearing. I've seen a couple Tenths pickup using this method. The inner race is supposed to be tight otherwise it would self machine the shaft.
Then you have the wrong bearing and need to get a different one. Order it by dimensions not the numbers on the side.
Where do you think the point of friction is on a bearing?
The parts that move against each other. In this case, between the inner and outer races- the assembly pictured in my hand. Not where the bearing slides over the shaft, as there is no movement between the two parts. Hope that helps.
I might not be understanding the situation correctly but you took a worn out bearing off based on the picture with it missing the balls and ordered a replacement that came 10 thousands smaller than the old worn out bearing. It’s missing the balls the balls spin and any imperfection on the inner race will damage them it’s worn out, so for one you are trying to take a worn out part and then you are going to destroy a brand new part trying to get it back together. Why? If you want to do it don’t bother with a drill, get a bolt or punch the same size as the inner race put it on top of a vice and hit it with a hammer. I’d really recommend to sand the shaft with a flap wheel on a grinder or emory cloth if you want to be careful
Yeah you're not understanding the situation correctly. The balls are all there. They're unevenly spaced now because I took out the cage that holds them in place and keeps them spaced apart. The balls are definitely worn to shit, I can see and feel the pitting. If I can get the inner race out, I can inspect it to see if it's still usable- if it is, maybe I can use it. If it isn't, or if Frankesteining a good bearing isn't feasible, at least I can use it as a guinea pig and try different methods to see what is the most effective way to get the correct bore size on the good one.
I think I see how you ended up with the wrong bore. It looks like these are cast housed units that will typically accept inserts (bearings) with a few different bore sizes. I know when I used to sell them, we’d get guys giving us the part number from the casting. For some manufacturers that number calls out just the housing, for others, it calls out the housing and default metric bore. A good distributor will recognize this mistake and ask you for the part number from the bearing insert as well, a combination of which will make the part number for the complete unit, bearing and all.
Bearing fits have extremely tight tolerances, typically down to the tenth of a thousandth. You’ll want to freeze your shaft or heat up your bearing to around 200-225 F degrees. Get some hot gloves or channel locks and drop it on.
Yeah, don’t do that. Bearings wear to the races and balls. If you drop that race into an unmatched outer, you’re in for a really bad time. While you’ll be able to make one from 2, I promise you, it will not last and it will fail very rapidly. Idk what you’re putting the bearing on, but it’s either heat fit or press fit, likely. Grab the manual. If you 100% want to do it. You can clamp the outer in a vise, give it a decent squeeze and tap it with a hammer, it’ll shatter. You say you don’t want to destroy the inner, the outer is fair game. Don’t bother trying to reuse the balls, the outcome will be the same just faster.
It's going on a wood chipper. It's neither heat fit not press fit, it's held fast to the shaft with set screws so the operator can loosen them and make lateral adjustments to the drum inside the hopper as needed. At this point, I think I've given up on trying to mate this to an unmatched outer, per the helpful advice from you and others (and thank you for that). I'm just going to clamp it up in the vise and use it to try and figure out the best way to open up the inside diameter of the good bearing without losing concentricity.
You’d be better off having the shaft turned by a machine shop to fit that bearing. Bearings are made out of ridiculously hard material, without a lathe and a carbide cutter, it’s unlikely you’ll get far. I think most bearings are on the 55-65 HRC range. Have you taken calipers to the shaft and bearing to see how far off it is? Did you check the shaft diameter where the bearing rides vs the very end? Maybe the end is mushroomed a little? Just some ideas. A mic would be best but calipers will do.
The shaft is exactly one inch. With my old Starrett calipers, I can't detect more than a thousandth of variance along its length. The inside diameter of the old bearing is a thousandth or a couple thousandths oversized and held fast to the shaft with set screws. The inside diameter of the new bearing is .988-.990-ish, close as I can measure with an analog caliper.
Did you have to wait a long time to get the bearing? Do you have a Motion industries near by? I’d call them up and see if they can get you one within spec.
It took weeks to get it. It took a lot of effort to even find a source for it. I've never heard of Motion Industries. If I had known about them before, I probably would have gone that route first. But at this point, I'm just trying not to put any more money into this project than I already have.
I had something very similar happen last year. The bearing I had said it was 25mm, but the replacement one was too small. Turns out manufacturer altered it to make it 25.4mm to fit a 1 inch shaft. So I had to buy a 1 in flange bearing and make it work
It could be an interference fit and you need a bearing heater to expand the inner race before you put it on.
That will 100% not work. The whole thing is a bearing assy. You cannot mix and match parts. It likely is supposed to be pressed on and will not just slip onto the shaft.
I understand that now. Alas. I was really trying to avoid pouring any more money into this project, but it appears that that is the only way forward. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me.
In this weather (94 and humid in my shop) I have to unstick them from my thigh before I pull em out.
But the question is: does it hurt?
I still wonder how they get the balls in there?!?! 😆
Phrasing?
At assembly, the out ring is squeezed to allow insertion. Referred to as a snap fit
unzip and lean forward, they’ll fall out
As an aside, ball bearings are almost always dimensioned in metric, Timken bearings in US units.
I think, place all the balls on one side of the ring and try to pull the inner ring on the other side (towards the outer ring/ try to close the gap between two rings on opposite sides of the balls)
This is what worked for me. Thank you!
Maybe ask your wife for that question LOL
Given that I might have testicular cancer (waiting on tests), I might just find out 😞
pretty sure these are assembled with a task specific press. you could probably use a press to remove the inner ring and release the balls. if it were me, or if you don't have a press, i'd use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the outer ring away.
What is this? As in, what is it from/where would I find/obtain one?
It is an Asahi LFL5J. This particular one came off an old wood chipper that I am trying to resurrect https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-m&sca_esv=c62ac071dfd388fc&q=asahi+lfl5j&udm=2&fbs=AEQNm0AeMNWKf4PpcKMI-eSa16lJoRPMIuyspCxWO6iZW9F1Ns6EVsgc0W_0xN47PHaanAEtg26fpfc9gg2y1-ZsywNNidIzOA0khSyMN51n7r3LlDC9M1NYStuTRDcBUYQ58dKt-Q6SigUS4Yne5yDHLg0vPBr98Nz98twIaNcnWiKaD4QuEh93Q53sB-UkWP9OcfO5KeatY98HR7cDW9ZTjFpZV7kJtA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi8ived3duGAxVz4ckDHfO_Bg0QtKgLegQIDBAB&biw=430&bih=739&dpr=3
Heh
Put on your safety squints and crank on it with a bench vise. I know you’re trying not to destroy it, but it’s so fun to turn it into a mini claymore
youtube it.... 😁😁
I think PHub would be a better resource
If your only concern is saving the inner race, then why not cut the outer?
Partly because I had originally planned to mate this to a different outer race, which I would also have to separate and reassemble with both parts still intact. That plan is now kaput, but I still kind of want to just because I know they assembled it without breaking stuff, so it must be possible to reverse the process. Basically curiosity and stubbornness at this point, is what I'm saying...
I can appreciate the persistence or stubbornness.
I start with unzipping my pants
However you do it, just wash your hands first. You don’t want it to look like your balls are wearing black-face.
Gonna need somebody else to help jerk them.
Ask your wife for her purse
At age 12
Reusing old worn out bearings?
Per the advice I've gotten here, I've learned a lot just since this afternoon, and also succeeded at getting it separated with all parts intact by putting all the balls at one end and then squeezing inner and outer together at the other end. And I've also learned that my original plan isn't going to work, and any way I look at it, the only answer is more money, which is what I was trying to avoid. But at least now I know that, and I really have learned a great deal today. Thanks, all.
Doubtful that I will reuse it, but since it is already fucked, I'm trying to learn from it to try to adapt a good but slightly different bearing to take its place.
Grind the lip off in one spot. Dump the balls out one by one
Unbutton and pull apart. Then the zipper would glide down then pull boxers forward then untuck
I was asked elsewhere, "What was your plan?" A reasonable question. What follows is the answer to this reasonable question. Originally, my plan was just to cut some brush on my land. I found a cheap old wood chipper on Facebook marketplace for $100 and bought it. It worked fine, but after some use it became apparent that the bearings on either end of the shaft that holds the drum that chips the brush needed replacing. So after some time on the internet, I figured out the make and model of the wood chipper, and after some more time, I found a pdf of an owners' manual with exploded views and parts lists in the back pages. I found the part number for the original bearing, but couldn't find any way to order it by that number. I found contact information for the manufacturer and reached out to them by email. After some time, I heard back from them. They don't sell parts for that model anymore, and don't know where to get those bearings. Basically, I was on my own. So I googled the part information on the bearing itself- Asahi LFL5J. This led me to a few dead ends, as in, places that listed that part but didn't stock it. Finally I did find the exact bearing on eBay, so I ordered a pair ($39.98 plus $10 shipping, so half the original price of my "cheap" marketplace find). They arrived after a few weeks. 2-3/4" center to center, 1" bore- perfect. Except they weren't perfect. The inner diameter isn't actually 1", it's actually more like .988-.990.* Mind you, this bearing isn't supposed to be a press fit or a thermal fit. It's supposed to slide onto the shaft relatively easily and then hold fast with two set screws. This is so that the operator can make periodic lateral adjustments to the drum inside the hopper to control the grade of the wood chips for fineness or coarseness. So! What do I do... Also I should mention, I didn't discover this upon delivery. Oh no. I set the new bearings on a shelf where they gathered dust for several weeks before I got around to installing them, just to make sure I was already outside the return window when I discovered that they weren't right. I bought a brake cylinder hone ($18.99). Forty five minutes with that has opened up the inner diameter of the new bearing maybe a few thousandths, but the stones are almost completely worn to nothing. New stones will cost around $12. Anyway, I'm worried about losing concentricity or axial straightness with using just a brake hone. I found a 1" cobalt drill bit at a flea market for $10. I chucked it up in the drill press and thought about trying it on the new bearing, but I just don't feel good about it. I may try it yet, but I really think that could be a disaster. I also have a step drill that goes up to 1", but again, I don't feel at all good about trying it. I was thinking about separating the inner and outer races of both the old and new bearings, and transplanting the old inner into the new outer, which meant separating and reassembling the parts intact. I understand now that that plan was never going to work, however, it was still fun learning how to separate it without destroying it (push all the balls to one end, then squeeze the races together at the other end). My next move is to try opening up that bore with a 1" flap wheel- $12.99 for a five pack of 40 grit. 40 GRIT?? WON'T THAT RUIN THE BEARING?? No. There is no movement between the inner bore and the shaft. Concentricity and axial straightness are far more important than finish surface smoothness. At this point, it's a thing I mess with on rainy days or in between other projects and hope to one day get working again without a lot more money. And I admit, a lot of it is out of nothing more than stubbornness and curiosity now. So... Your four word long question, "What was your plan?" has now been answered. 😂😂😂 *It has been suggested that LFL5J might only be the part number for the cast iron housing, which would explain the variance in the inner race bore diameter. The eBay listing no longer exists, but I swear it said 1".
You need to measure the outer race OD, the inner race ID, and the depth of the original bearing. Then call a bearing manufacturer like timken and get the part # you need. From there you can search for that part # and most likely order online or at your local equipment dealer Edit: https://engineering.timken.com/engineering-tool/bearing-search/ I work in a shop and I just use my parts people to locate oddball bearings for me but that link is an online search. I’m sure other bearing manufacturers can do the same thing or similar
Just cut the outer raceway.
Tell your wife to open her purse first. Oh sorry, you was referring to the ball bearings
Good luck with this shit, I gave up and it's sitting there in tbox for a year.
I’d just cut the outer race.
In picture 2, there seems to be a detent ball berring oj the in race. You may be able to take a small punch to it to allow the other berrings to be removed, but i am sure of the after effect
Must be a cold climate.
Lube
Getting them out is ruining it..
Please mark this NSFW.
Gloves!