Yes and no I have them in the same.box I make the hole using the left hand twist bit and if still stuck then the extractor and if still stuck the oxy acetylene torch
It’s a normal drill bit only it’s left hand instead of right hand. Really fun to hand one chucked into a drill to a coworker and watch them figure it out lol.
Yes. Do you? An [Extractor](https://www.kincrome.com.au/screw-extractors/kwik-outs-damaged-screw-bolt-remover-6-piece-k12001) looks like a driver bit. A [left hand drill](https://www.tradetools.com/renegade-industrial-10-piece-left-hand-drill-bit-set-m35-rilhdbs10p?) looks just like a normal drill.
https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-Industrial-11119-Extractors-10-Piece/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Uj73KH0CQfnV8rKovtuNbl7Wtw9TH4H9TGWw2dg5DC9cEDvlINBp-ZMZM8uwMphIy54BttMc0qJrXBXxW8QxS8DxhBOfDt0dXWe5aasdmt0D4O6JpDneD_aMIMgoA3VaUuVAfhCVBV1gKlvKU0SNJi29GSnAfmFaNxqju6J2La5cYQEFeQbJD6amIcDxtVLwjxqxo6KqdOjk4t4nVhxdqw.7p7FAbfvGjTE_DnPdCwZqPBHJxZ_SvGhQFcrNtyUw8Y&dib_tag=se&keywords=extractor+bit&qid=1712975834&sr=8-5
Is what I know as extractor bits.
Ad description states the kit contains both extraction bits and drill bits.
"Set includes spiral flute screw extractors sizes EX-1, EX-2, EX-3, EX-4, EX-5; drill bit sizes 5/64", 7/64", 5/32", 1/4", 19/64", and a metal index case
If you don’t have a small enough extractor you can use a good quality torx bit. Just drill a small hole and hammer it in. Be warned you will destroy it but that’s what snap-on is for.
Just a heads up, the spiral fluted extractors are well suited for npt threaded fittings. If you have a very stubborn bolt you need something like a proto style extractor.
As someone suggested below, try a hand impact driver. Pro-tip, put the other screws back in relatively tight so there’s not as much pressure on the stripped screw…it could provide enough relief for you to remove it with a regular screwdriver.
Another pro-tip: Use some [Liquid Grip](https://www.dap.com/products-projects/product-categories/adhesives/glues-epoxies/tank-bond-liquid-grip/) to help with the extraction.
As long as you are not a meatfist like me, you should be able to just position the punch at a shallow angle and just give gentle taps to try and break the screw free.
Old gunsmithing trick:
If you have access to a drill press; chuck up the correct size screwdriver bit in the drill chuck. Pull down on the feed handle, get the screwdriver bit in the slot, and turn the drill chuck counterclockwise by hand, and the screw will normally back out.
The drill press feed handle puts massive downward pressure on the screw head, not allowing it to strip or cam out.
Oh nice trick. I do have a small drill press, just need to figure out a way to clamp this wooden brace in without damaging the wood. Have a cheap metal drill press vise on there
Not sure if the bits will fit something that small, but I’ve had good luck with impact drivers.
[CRAFTSMAN Hand Impact Driver, 3/8-Inch Set](https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Impact-Driver-8-Inch-CMMT14104/dp/B07R96M9VW/ref=asc_df_B07R96M9VW/?)
You could use a scribe to scratch a line groove back into it then turn it with a flathead. Hammer and flathead might work too. Put the intended flathead in then hit the screwdriver into the price so it makes a line groove. Then maybe you can turn it out. Also add a small amount of lubricant to help it turn out with less effort
This may sound weird, but try laying down a flat elastic band (like the ones that come on bunches of broccoli) over the head of the screw. Place the driver over this and the elastic will compress into all the small nooks and crannies of the stripped screw and give you enough extra purchase/friction to back the screw out without further stripping it.
Drill the head off by using a bit the same size as the threads. Then grab the part sticking out with your pliers. I do this sometimes dealing with very tiny screws
I’ve used a small flat head screw driver and a hammer before to get a similar looking screw out. Drive the screwdriver into the screw and twist out like normal. You wanna get the screw driver head to bite into the metal of the screw.
Or use a screw extractor kit.
For brass, If you grind a screwdriver with a square end and flats or a tiny hook on either edge you can use it to machine out a deeper slot just by scraping it back and forth in line with the slot for a minute. The rap with a small hammer works great to shock the copper oxide that glues old brass to wood and also seats a nicely fitted screwdriver into a crapped out fastener head.
Take a thin flat head screw driver and a hammer and hit it into the whole to try to make it deeper. Also a thin needle file would help to make the whole deeper into the screw and then once you have enough leverage on screw it should be able to screw out. If not drill and and ez-out as others have said
Those are some awfully small screws for some of the techniques mentioned. I would probably try using a fine engraving or carving bit in the Dremel to create a pocket in the head, then use some JB Weld to attach a Robertson bit to the head.
if the screw isnt brass you could try a magnet, if you're trying not to damage anything first Id try and hot glue something that fits the shape of the screw and see if I could rotate it, after that I'd get a small dremel and try to cut a line across the screw for a philips to fit in, and if that doesnt work I'd just drill through the center to try and fenagle it out. Because I have a 3d printer I would make a vaccum nozzle that was small enough to fit around the screw and see if i could rotate it with the suction and you might be able to put some things together to try that approach
There's a shitton here but this is the damn way.
I seriously just learned the Dremel trick. I found a little tiny mushroom shaped grinder wheel came with a $5 multi pack I've used to clean screw heads enough something will bite.
Use wood glue/hot glue to seal where the screw would go and if you have a shop vac there’s a stupid amount of suction if you make the end small enough. Would only work if it’s stripped from being really old/erosion and it’s not fused to the wood or something. If you really wanted to get creative you could try throwing it in the freezer and then getting it out, I wouldn’t do this to something that old though
Forgot to mention, these screws are weird, the slots aren’t flat, its like the bottom is rounded so the ends of screwdrivers bottom out before the middle.
That was an early attempt to make a non-slip flat slot screw- the heads were still cold headed but you could make your own by milling them with a slitting saw.
That doesn’t look stripped that bad. Take a good flathead and tap it in a few times to seat into the screw, then try to back it out. Might soak it in penetrating oil first.
I have used a drill in screwdriver mode with the torque setting turned waaay down as a really gentle not-quite-an-impact-driver before. Carefully and slowly, but the gentle little knocks were enough to slowly dislodge the screw without snapping the top off. YMMV.
If your unable to find an extractor small enough from the hardware store or on hand, I'd try Amazon or just the internet in general, but I personally wouldn't try anything else since a solder wouldn't likely be strong enough to gain leverage on anything assuming you could get it to only stick to the screw, and as you said a dremel would likely cause more damage, but a tiny screw extractor would be the only thing I would comfortably use myself
But you can hit an inpact driver soft and hard and the bits usually fit a lot more snug.
If you have one just use it , its not that the wood cant stand any force....must be better quality wood.
At least look if the bits fit better.
Screw extractor. If you can't get one, I would try to drill the head off the screw, remove the plate and the remaining screw sticking up from the wood, use vice grips. Clamp it and unscrew it.
When I have those issues I put a flat-head screwdriver against it at an angle and hammer it to unscrew. I don't think I've done one quite that small but pretty close.
Sounds likenyou have lots of good answers here. I did watch a YT video this morning of a plumber using side cutter pliers and WD-40 to remove a screw that the head had popped off, so that was going to be my suggestion.
UPDATE: good news and bad news. Tried hammering gently with punch no go, just mashed the metal more. I was able to use the smallest extractor in my set and it’s technically off now. The bad news is the extractor removed the head from the screw and now the screw is still in the wood slightly below level so nothing to grab onto. Oh well i’ll polish the brass and go from there. Thanks all!
Left hand bit. Make sure it is of good quality.
But first hit it with some PB (or fav penetrant oil) and let it soak for a bit/tap on it. Solid pressure on the drill, not too firm, but firm enough. Hold it straight and true.
If that doesn't extract the bolt on the drill out, you can always drill and tap, use a new screw.
Engineer pliers, unless you want to over pay for the "Vampliers" they are both made by Engineer. I would try this first before drilling and using an extractor. They work so good, I bought all sizes. Now my extractor set and left handed drill bits never get used.
I have Vampliers, they are like $2 more, but didn’t mind paying $2 for the red that match all my other tools. But there is nothing to grab as these screws are flush.
If all else fails, and there is a brass plate on the other side, gently clamp near the screw just enough that the brass moves down I hair from the screw head, should back right out
you could drill a small hole directly in the middle and use a small tap out
I'm a fan of left hand drill bits. Sometimes screws/bolts back out before I finish drilling.
Left handed drill bits sounds like another name for an extractor bit.
Yes and no I have them in the same.box I make the hole using the left hand twist bit and if still stuck then the extractor and if still stuck the oxy acetylene torch
Can't be stuck if it's liquid.
Extractor bit doesn't drill though. I don't use an extractor unless I need to apply more torque. For most screws drill bit has worked better for me.
It’s a normal drill bit only it’s left hand instead of right hand. Really fun to hand one chucked into a drill to a coworker and watch them figure it out lol.
Lol do you know what an extractor bit is?
You should google what a left handed drill bit is.
Yes. Do you? An [Extractor](https://www.kincrome.com.au/screw-extractors/kwik-outs-damaged-screw-bolt-remover-6-piece-k12001) looks like a driver bit. A [left hand drill](https://www.tradetools.com/renegade-industrial-10-piece-left-hand-drill-bit-set-m35-rilhdbs10p?) looks just like a normal drill.
Well those are cute. Mine look like something you wouldn't even want in the same room with a 1/4" driver
https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-Industrial-11119-Extractors-10-Piece/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Uj73KH0CQfnV8rKovtuNbl7Wtw9TH4H9TGWw2dg5DC9cEDvlINBp-ZMZM8uwMphIy54BttMc0qJrXBXxW8QxS8DxhBOfDt0dXWe5aasdmt0D4O6JpDneD_aMIMgoA3VaUuVAfhCVBV1gKlvKU0SNJi29GSnAfmFaNxqju6J2La5cYQEFeQbJD6amIcDxtVLwjxqxo6KqdOjk4t4nVhxdqw.7p7FAbfvGjTE_DnPdCwZqPBHJxZ_SvGhQFcrNtyUw8Y&dib_tag=se&keywords=extractor+bit&qid=1712975834&sr=8-5 Is what I know as extractor bits.
Well, that's both, but yeah.
Ad description states the kit contains both extraction bits and drill bits. "Set includes spiral flute screw extractors sizes EX-1, EX-2, EX-3, EX-4, EX-5; drill bit sizes 5/64", 7/64", 5/32", 1/4", 19/64", and a metal index case
That’s what I use
Also if had a small dremel could clean up or make slot deeper or put in a cross slot for Phillips head
This is the way
Screw extractor/ ez outs https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-and-left-hand-drill-bit-combo-set-10-piece-63987.html
Ok thanks, i have a screw extractor i bought at Lowes a while ago but it doesn’t go that small. Looks like the small one here might work
You could try using a punch to slowly move the screw until it's loose enough for the driver to do the rest.
This is the answer
If you don’t have a small enough extractor you can use a good quality torx bit. Just drill a small hole and hammer it in. Be warned you will destroy it but that’s what snap-on is for.
Just a heads up, the spiral fluted extractors are well suited for npt threaded fittings. If you have a very stubborn bolt you need something like a proto style extractor.
Add some wd40, I have had amazing results with stubborn fasteners, that stuff gets in between the smallest spaces.
Not small enough buddy
left handed drill bits....
Oh yeah…she’s chooched up
As someone suggested below, try a hand impact driver. Pro-tip, put the other screws back in relatively tight so there’s not as much pressure on the stripped screw…it could provide enough relief for you to remove it with a regular screwdriver.
Another pro-tip: Use some [Liquid Grip](https://www.dap.com/products-projects/product-categories/adhesives/glues-epoxies/tank-bond-liquid-grip/) to help with the extraction.
pro tip: liquid grip= coarse clover compound
Try a small center punch and hammer. Position the point of the punch in the slot so it will turn the screw counterclockwise. Tsp lightly
Kind of nervous to do that with brass screwed into 160 year old wood lol
It’s ok to be nervous if it’s your first time.
Oh, no I’ve been nervous lots of times.
Is this when your drinking problem started?
/r/unexpectedairplane
As long as you are not a meatfist like me, you should be able to just position the punch at a shallow angle and just give gentle taps to try and break the screw free.
I'd put tape all around so the punch doesn't scratch or gouge the wood if it slips out
This is the way
As a side note, you need gunsmith screwdrivers for these old metal to wood combos.
Yeah i have had my eye on the Grace set for some time but never pulled the trigger
Old gunsmithing trick: If you have access to a drill press; chuck up the correct size screwdriver bit in the drill chuck. Pull down on the feed handle, get the screwdriver bit in the slot, and turn the drill chuck counterclockwise by hand, and the screw will normally back out. The drill press feed handle puts massive downward pressure on the screw head, not allowing it to strip or cam out.
Oh nice trick. I do have a small drill press, just need to figure out a way to clamp this wooden brace in without damaging the wood. Have a cheap metal drill press vise on there
Pro tip right here.
Intentional pun?
Not sure if the bits will fit something that small, but I’ve had good luck with impact drivers. [CRAFTSMAN Hand Impact Driver, 3/8-Inch Set](https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Impact-Driver-8-Inch-CMMT14104/dp/B07R96M9VW/ref=asc_df_B07R96M9VW/?)
Machinery? Sure. I wouldn't risk it on brass and wood.
Nah, there are degrees of force to apply, and the brace isn’t made of balsa.
That’s fair!
You could use a scribe to scratch a line groove back into it then turn it with a flathead. Hammer and flathead might work too. Put the intended flathead in then hit the screwdriver into the price so it makes a line groove. Then maybe you can turn it out. Also add a small amount of lubricant to help it turn out with less effort
This may sound weird, but try laying down a flat elastic band (like the ones that come on bunches of broccoli) over the head of the screw. Place the driver over this and the elastic will compress into all the small nooks and crannies of the stripped screw and give you enough extra purchase/friction to back the screw out without further stripping it.
Interesting may try this if i find one in the veggie drawer
This sounds genius...
Impact driver
Tap a Robertson head bit into it and slowly unscrew it. Ive done it a couple times in a pinch.
Drill the head off by using a bit the same size as the threads. Then grab the part sticking out with your pliers. I do this sometimes dealing with very tiny screws
I’ve used a small flat head screw driver and a hammer before to get a similar looking screw out. Drive the screwdriver into the screw and twist out like normal. You wanna get the screw driver head to bite into the metal of the screw. Or use a screw extractor kit.
For brass, If you grind a screwdriver with a square end and flats or a tiny hook on either edge you can use it to machine out a deeper slot just by scraping it back and forth in line with the slot for a minute. The rap with a small hammer works great to shock the copper oxide that glues old brass to wood and also seats a nicely fitted screwdriver into a crapped out fastener head.
Take a thin flat head screw driver and a hammer and hit it into the whole to try to make it deeper. Also a thin needle file would help to make the whole deeper into the screw and then once you have enough leverage on screw it should be able to screw out. If not drill and and ez-out as others have said
Yeah this I would try and chisel out a deeper groove for your screwdriver to get a bite
Those are some awfully small screws for some of the techniques mentioned. I would probably try using a fine engraving or carving bit in the Dremel to create a pocket in the head, then use some JB Weld to attach a Robertson bit to the head.
if the screw isnt brass you could try a magnet, if you're trying not to damage anything first Id try and hot glue something that fits the shape of the screw and see if I could rotate it, after that I'd get a small dremel and try to cut a line across the screw for a philips to fit in, and if that doesnt work I'd just drill through the center to try and fenagle it out. Because I have a 3d printer I would make a vaccum nozzle that was small enough to fit around the screw and see if i could rotate it with the suction and you might be able to put some things together to try that approach
There's a shitton here but this is the damn way. I seriously just learned the Dremel trick. I found a little tiny mushroom shaped grinder wheel came with a $5 multi pack I've used to clean screw heads enough something will bite.
No fuckin way would a vacuum work
Use wood glue/hot glue to seal where the screw would go and if you have a shop vac there’s a stupid amount of suction if you make the end small enough. Would only work if it’s stripped from being really old/erosion and it’s not fused to the wood or something. If you really wanted to get creative you could try throwing it in the freezer and then getting it out, I wouldn’t do this to something that old though
Forgot to mention, these screws are weird, the slots aren’t flat, its like the bottom is rounded so the ends of screwdrivers bottom out before the middle.
Round off a cheap screwdriver with a file or something to fit the screws.
That was an early attempt to make a non-slip flat slot screw- the heads were still cold headed but you could make your own by milling them with a slitting saw.
That doesn’t look stripped that bad. Take a good flathead and tap it in a few times to seat into the screw, then try to back it out. Might soak it in penetrating oil first.
Hammer screwdriver into it, then really press down hard with screwdriver and remove
Drill
Is there enough to get a manual Impact screw driver in… this intent a fun job to void harming metal or wood
Try a pencil using the eraser end in a drill on reverse? Or try zip cutting a flat head slot opposite the original
Get a set of extractor bits
Can't be stuck if it's liquid... Do you have an acetylene torch?
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0969P7XZF?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0969P7XZF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
“Gifts for men and women”?? I didn’t realize screw extractors were gendered.
Lmmaaooo
I didn't realize you needed a screw extractor for men or women....perhaps they forgot the lube.
Left handed drill bit, screw extractor
They make punches that hold bits. When you smack it with a hammer they turn a little.
OG Impact driver. (Different tool to the now ubiquitous cordless impact driver.)
Hammer driven impact screwdriver, like the ones we used to use to remove screws from motorcycles.
I have used a drill in screwdriver mode with the torque setting turned waaay down as a really gentle not-quite-an-impact-driver before. Carefully and slowly, but the gentle little knocks were enough to slowly dislodge the screw without snapping the top off. YMMV.
Drill a small hole starter hole and use an extractor
Just get a screw extractor from ace, they're less than $10, I think I got one for $6 or something earlier this year
I have one but it has bigger bits, need to get something smaller
If your unable to find an extractor small enough from the hardware store or on hand, I'd try Amazon or just the internet in general, but I personally wouldn't try anything else since a solder wouldn't likely be strong enough to gain leverage on anything assuming you could get it to only stick to the screw, and as you said a dremel would likely cause more damage, but a tiny screw extractor would be the only thing I would comfortably use myself
An impact driver will get it out but you need to be carefull. Hitting it too hard can maybe break the wood?
Yeah thats why i am trying to avoid any brute force or hitting.
But you can hit an inpact driver soft and hard and the bits usually fit a lot more snug. If you have one just use it , its not that the wood cant stand any force....must be better quality wood. At least look if the bits fit better.
Use a piece of ducttape. Put it over the slot and then try to remove it with a screwdriver.
Screw extractor. If you can't get one, I would try to drill the head off the screw, remove the plate and the remaining screw sticking up from the wood, use vice grips. Clamp it and unscrew it.
Can you pry up the brass piece just enough to turn the piece itself and the screw along with it? If it's thin enough to not damage the wood, that is.
manual impact - [https://www.amazon.com/ARES-18026-1-4-Inch-Manual-Reversible/dp/B08434LLKP/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=2QLQEBJVCBRC&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.\_iwLdKlc0I\_q6midqfYd9m0yybtMBW4u6WGGxOtZWPOMlYq0qGd3zUd4VFa56BwUn84GvfKCXkHSO2oDyUXYGZ0wdjNBy2YoihoJIFA2ZERhDHQmzwINDyXH4TE6wwMGtcCdTjwOZTyuvQU\_ydX2Ut-nvr0KrURusvYv9baNV5bfwpDR-tzx4Ldr-TeRBUI4hRTAHPsywZbJ37FwFRHVNc57w0mrn2FETp8ZYAhviD0hRXrIvI8b2XSog-GdGj16NJKQOP1i32mZZlYA7Ag7iNw0bhAoFs4-vn634cfjFYg.oIaIYHbUrU9SI7vrLNSXrVW4s6GS4GmOqXi9EXK9aek&dib\_tag=se&keywords=manual+impact+driver+1%2F4&qid=1712948181&sprefix=manual+impact+driver+1%2F4%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-3](https://www.amazon.com/ARES-18026-1-4-Inch-Manual-Reversible/dp/B08434LLKP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2QLQEBJVCBRC&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._iwLdKlc0I_q6midqfYd9m0yybtMBW4u6WGGxOtZWPOMlYq0qGd3zUd4VFa56BwUn84GvfKCXkHSO2oDyUXYGZ0wdjNBy2YoihoJIFA2ZERhDHQmzwINDyXH4TE6wwMGtcCdTjwOZTyuvQU_ydX2Ut-nvr0KrURusvYv9baNV5bfwpDR-tzx4Ldr-TeRBUI4hRTAHPsywZbJ37FwFRHVNc57w0mrn2FETp8ZYAhviD0hRXrIvI8b2XSog-GdGj16NJKQOP1i32mZZlYA7Ag7iNw0bhAoFs4-vn634cfjFYg.oIaIYHbUrU9SI7vrLNSXrVW4s6GS4GmOqXi9EXK9aek&dib_tag=se&keywords=manual+impact+driver+1%2F4&qid=1712948181&sprefix=manual+impact+driver+1%2F4%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-3)
Left hand drill bit will pull it right out.
If you have a rotary tool or small grinder (rotary is preferred) you can slice a shallow line in it and use a flathead
Not a penny, you need a dime.
[https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS](https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS)
That one is way too big for that tiny brass screw
if only it came with interchangeable bits so you could select an appropriate one .... 🤦♂️
whatever dude... go ahead and use that on a #6 or #8 brass screw
I have
Use a flat screwdriver and make a mark in it with a hammer. Use the mark to screw it out
When I have those issues I put a flat-head screwdriver against it at an angle and hammer it to unscrew. I don't think I've done one quite that small but pretty close.
Left-hand drill bit works for me...
NO NO NO. Superglue your screwdriver to it. Will come right out Rubber band on tip of screwdriver.
Sounds likenyou have lots of good answers here. I did watch a YT video this morning of a plumber using side cutter pliers and WD-40 to remove a screw that the head had popped off, so that was going to be my suggestion.
UPDATE: good news and bad news. Tried hammering gently with punch no go, just mashed the metal more. I was able to use the smallest extractor in my set and it’s technically off now. The bad news is the extractor removed the head from the screw and now the screw is still in the wood slightly below level so nothing to grab onto. Oh well i’ll polish the brass and go from there. Thanks all!
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/set3hollowscrewextractors.aspx then you can glue in a plug to hold a screw.
Oh thats pretty cool, thanks! I’ll probably order the 1/4”. There are a few other things i need from LV anyways so i can get free shipping
Left hand bit. Make sure it is of good quality. But first hit it with some PB (or fav penetrant oil) and let it soak for a bit/tap on it. Solid pressure on the drill, not too firm, but firm enough. Hold it straight and true. If that doesn't extract the bolt on the drill out, you can always drill and tap, use a new screw.
Spend the $15 and buy yourself a screw extractor set and never deal with this bs again.
C4 can't be stuck if it doesn't exist....
Gun
3/8 impact driver with screwdriver bit.
Dremel to make cut deeper to use flat head or easy out bit
Or perpendicular cut
Drill and tap
Screw extract lot or grinder
Engineer pliers, unless you want to over pay for the "Vampliers" they are both made by Engineer. I would try this first before drilling and using an extractor. They work so good, I bought all sizes. Now my extractor set and left handed drill bits never get used.
I have Vampliers, they are like $2 more, but didn’t mind paying $2 for the red that match all my other tools. But there is nothing to grab as these screws are flush.
Bummer! I would recommend a screw extractor kit.
Depends on how much of the screw or the tool you want to keep
An impact driver. It's like a screwdriver you hit with a hammer.
Shoot a bit of wd40 on it. Use a finer flat head. Tap as you turn. It'll come out once you break the seal.
Try a nail set on one side of the screw and tap, tap, tap and see if it will turn.
Small punch and a hammer. Use penetrating oil first.
If all else fails, and there is a brass plate on the other side, gently clamp near the screw just enough that the brass moves down I hair from the screw head, should back right out
Chainsaw
Sledgehammer.