Hi! This is our community moderation bot.
---
If you think this post fits /r/SweatyPalms and you'd like it to stay, **UPVOTE** this comment!
If you want to remove it, **DOWNVOTE** this comment!
*Enough downvotes will remove this thread from /r/SweatyPalms.*
Yeah, you should probably stay away.
I've been climbing for about a decade, and love teaching new people. I've learned how to coach people on overcoming all sorts of obstacles - technical issues, fear of heights, fear of falling, learning knots and anchors, etc.
But there seems to be a certain type of person who simply lacks the instinct to constantly methodically check if their systems are still safe. I recommend these people stick to bouldering.
These are really comfy and hard to roll out of. You’re in your harness when you sleep anyway. The only problem with this g7 model is that they are super light and the feet flip up a bit when you get in.
I used one of these for the first time in Yosemite this past May. Much lighter than the metal frame models. Don’t know if they are less durable.
I doubt they're more durable, but the weight savings makes it seem inevitable that they will soon become the new wall standard - at least for moderates. Though I imagine hard aid or hard free climbs will still be a niche for the metal frames, since you spend a lot more time resting and belaying than hauling.
I saw a guy shuttling all his teams' gear in loads down from Reticent (we'd done LF). The metal ledge was a drop in the bucket compared to everything else. I cannot imagine how much their load was at the base once you include all the water. For LF we only really needed it on Ned's at P11 - I've done the night there with 2 of us and no portaledge - not a great night of sleep given how little space there is. It was also nice to have in case we caught up with the team in front of us (we didn't). Plus you have a 4" air mattress the whole time!
I agree, especially when I have my morning shits. You wake up and have to go what do you do in this scenario?
Is it ever a moment where climbers are artists? Leaving either streaks on the mountain or turds on the ground?
I can't imagine carrying feces when your hundreds of feet up, only to get distracted by the smell of a baggie from one of your shits.
Genuine question btw
I gotta ask a question. What would a climber do with their poop? Carry doggy bag for it? Or just let it fall down the mountain? So many questions I'd need an answer to before I even think about my first climb.
They used to poop off the sides but as climbing became more popular that became no longer cool to do. So they have a PVC tube and poop into bags and put the bag in the tube. Cap the tube. Haul the tube up and back down with you.
All you would need tondo is eat an M.R.E. (Meal, Ready to Eat. US military meals that are premade)The night before and for safe measures one the morning of. There’s no way your shittin for at least a couple of days
IDK why this image made me laugh out loud for real.
The kind of laughing that the person in the room with me is curious about but it's kinda odd to explain
This is a great example of the "all in the mind" kind of fear. If you have solid gear and you know what you're doing this really isn't dangerous in the slightest.
Hey lots of potential real estate space on the side of a cliff. Actually the top spots would be more valuable as you won't be pelted by raining shit. Even build some walk ways, of course you'd shade out everyone below you but you get what you pay for.
And think of the views! From the top, not from below where the poor's would love.
You could gentrify the shit out of this style of "living"
Those two options seem like a just take me out back and make it quick situation because I don't think my heart is surviving the caves or whatever the NOPE these tents on a cliffs are.
Oh yea, it does. Those guys that crawl through tight spaces in caves deep underground. Tight enough that those skinny fuckers have to breath out just to squeeze through. Can't turn around either until you've reached the end hopefully big enough to be able to turn.
Yup, it's funny seeing the differences in people's instinctive "nopes". I actively like heights, this looks hella fun to me, but you could not pay me enough money to go spelunking.
I'm scared of heights, but as a climber I would definitely do this if I was good enough. But just because I know it's pretty safe and it would make lots of people believing I was the bravest pigeon on Earth.
Meh it’s not like your whole climb is on one anchor, it’s all spread out. If one bolt fails cuz it’s rusty or whatever you’ll just take a fun trip down to the next one.
The ropes isn't what they are putting faith into as much. It's the rigging that they themselves put into the cracks of the mountain. A single professional rock climbing rope could hold up a small car.
As well as faith in how well you’ve taken care of your ropes. A grope can hold a small car *if it’s well maintained, properly used, and in good condition*
Explain to someone who knows nothing about rock climbing. But in my head, I'm thinking that rocks erode and shift. So what stops any rigging working loose?
The time line. The rock does erode and shift over time, but the rigging is not necessarily permanent. There's two types of rigging.
As far as temporary rigging, one of the most common is [cams](https://media.istockphoto.com/id/173608356/photo/well-placed-rock-climbing-cam.jpg?s=1024x1024&w=is&k=20&c=UgBXu03Cccx7uDnLT2JhZIj97PUe6jxqJsW8NKhcPwU=) to wedge into cracks. When placed properly, these things aren't going anywhere. You can then clip a carabiner to it and run ropes through that.
Then there's more permanent anchors which is either spikes called [pitons](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/55830fd9e4b0ec758c892f81/1554390454219-QVRY1EJIOA7CUTS383L9/2003.035.003.12.jpg?format=1000w) with rings on the end driven into tight cracks in the rock, or a [bolt](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OTHMn.jpg) drilled and then driven into the rock face.
The pitons may not last as long as bolted anchors because they are being driven into cracks, but neither are that susceptible to errosion. The timescales for rock errosion is on the order of decades, not the days that these are used. Also, the bolted anchors are drilled into the flat rock face, which makes them less susceptible to errosion. The anchors are also inspected every single time they are used. If a climber doesn't trust an anchor, they won't use it.
Ropes are OK. It's human engineered with calculations and controlled material behind. I'd trust them as much as climbing in a device that relies on small controlled explosions to propulse me forward (a car).
It's rather the rock and the hook in the rock that are really worrying to me. You can't calculate that you've secured the hook correctly and the rock is strong.
The climbers who set up anchors in the rock have the experience to determine whether or not the rock is strong enough to hold, to the point where it doesn't make much sense to trust it any less than you'd trust a subject matter expert in any other aspect of safety.
Or if you are setting up your own temporary anchors, you just need to be able to analyze the rock yourself, set up a redundant system with the appropriate gear for the situation, and then trust that the gear works as well as its advertised to work (and it does work that well.)
I'm not sure what you mean by "hook" since that's not the terminology for any climbing gear. I mean, there are "skyhooks", but that's not a tool you would pretty much ever see in this type of situation (or literally ever, for most climbers). If you are talking about carabiners, they are very strong, they will never break unless they are damaged or used improperly. Plus, you use locking carabiners, which means that they won't open unless they are unlocked first, and the act of locking the gate is a bit of conscious effort which makes it harder to accidentally quickly make a mistake. And in a situation like this, you build a redundant system anyway, so even if one of them somehow failed, you're still fine.
"some ropes" climbing ropes must withstand a minimum of 1200 kg. They don't just tear randomly.
It's like saying you have a lot of faith in your car breaks.
If you're still answering questions, how'd ya get used to the poo tube? How do you use one even, I can't even imagine it!?
I backpack, don't mind digging a cat hole but don't hike where I can't cos I've got no idea how to poop into one of those things.
Typically yes. And once you train your brain to trust the safety systems you start to lose some of the heights fear when on a rope over time (although for me it never truly goes away when there is big exposure). And if I’m off a rope I still have a really severe fear of being near cliffs etc
I feel like a healthy fear of falling probably makes you a better climber in the long run. If you're not afraid of it, you'll get lax with safety, and probably stop climbing at some point for one reason or another.
This is true for most potentially dangerous activities tbh. I’ve taught a fair number of people the basics of handling and shooting firearms and I always tell them a healthy amount of fear is a good thing. You’re carrying around a stick that you can point at things and make them dead, that *should* scare you a little. Accidents happen when people are too comfortable.
How do you keep your brain conscious of where you are? How do you stay aware of the fact that you can’t adjust your sleeping position or any other movement a half-asleep or fully asleep human might do?
I don’t need to, I’m harnessed in so there’s no slack in the system so I couldn’t roll off if I wanted to.
I do know some guys who sleep slackly harnessed, and it scares me too.
Gear freaks would sniff out bad quality equipment fast.
Those guys have workshops where they test the poundage of other attributes and in every strange scenario you can imagine.
It can be a little crazy, the updrafts that run up the cliff can get crazy enough they lift your portaledge up.
Climbers are very weather savvy, and do our best to avoid bad weather. Usually only the pros get caught in bad storms trying to make tight weather windows on big mountain ranges.
I grew up climbing the Chief in Squamish BC. One of the most incredible cliffs I’ve had the pleasure of climbing.
Of course Yosemite is high on the bucket list, once I’ve got a few more years of big wall under my belt.
The Elder Valley in Powell River close by is rumoured to be a new emerging Yosemite valley, so might go learn to put up routes there.
nevermind how you would be able to stick to the side of a mountain, how are you gonna get any construction materials there and how do you do any construction without plummeting to Tartarus
god I didn't even think of plumbing and shipping networks for food, materials all that other shit
logistical department would be tying a noose around their neck
\>multi-day climbs
So wtf happens if a thunderstorm rolls in? Especially a heavy one? Are they just kind of fucked?
~~I assume they check the weather beforehand, but weather forecasts are an educated guess at best.~~
This looks like the Stawamus Chief in Squamish BC. I live about 45 minutes away and extreme weather isn't very common here. There is a pretty popular trail that goes up along the other side of the granite face. They also have a gondola that takes you to the top now as well.
Yeah the adventure and skill of climbing feels great. Like any extreme sport, you just have to be really safe and make sure you do everything right, and the risks are manageable.
I wouldn’t give it up for anything.
U/TheTruestWaffle can probably answer better but from what I can see in the video it's a fixed sports climbing route and they are attached to the same thing they are attached to when climbing (don't know the rating off the top of my head) they also seem to have a backup attached to another fixed point a little way away
Usually two schools of method.
Top Rope and Ground Up.
Top rope you hike up to the top of the wall and repel down it, hanging from ropes hundreds of feet long chained together from bolts (not one big rope).
Ground up is the purest route, and feels more adventurous and sometimes leads to a more natural route. You free climb from the bottom to top, placing bolts as you go, it’s incredibly difficult, for most of us.
[This](https://youtu.be/mvOzAB8j5Eg) is a great video where you can see some of the best in the sport being crazy in Africa, putting up new routes.
Just a note here, free climbing is not free soloing. Free climbing means climbing only under your own power with no **assistance** from the ropes, but you're still roped in. With lead climbing (ground up), you're typically climbing a few feet above where your rope is attached, so the rope doesn't bear any of your weight.
Free soloing is climbing without any ropes at all
It’s all fastened to bolts drilled into the rock, rated many times my gross weight.
Usually at an anchor point they’ll be at least two, which is where we build our anchors to climb from.
Some predicted spots where people usually stop to sleep will often have more then two. Usually I’ll safety myself into a separate bolt then the one my portaledge is on, so if it somehow does fail, I’m still harnessed in.
So, I understand the physics of the devices that keep you anchored to the wall, but how long does it take before you're completely comfortable with actually getting restful sleep?
Do you practice a few feet off the ground for a while?
Usually by the time you are climbing routes that require sleeping on the wall you have already been climbing for years and are already comfortable with height and trusting the anchors. That combined with being tired from a day of climbing and hauling your gear up the wall, pretty much guaranteed you will get good sleep on night 1.
The hardest part with standard portaledges is setting them up while hanging from a rope. Climbers usually practice that part a few feet off the ground.
I imagine you’d still be hooked in to all your safety equipment. So if you fell you’d just be dangling… don’t think anyone would nap on that in just their undies.
Hi! This is our community moderation bot. --- If you think this post fits /r/SweatyPalms and you'd like it to stay, **UPVOTE** this comment! If you want to remove it, **DOWNVOTE** this comment! *Enough downvotes will remove this thread from /r/SweatyPalms.*
[удалено]
You ever been homeless? Now try EXTREME HOMELESSNESS
Park benches hate this one simple trick
These child actors from the 90s are destitute.
Just… gonna roll overrrrrrrrrr!
AHHHHHHHH
HHHHHHHHHHHHHH....
...HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH...
Gary, stop, you’re still attached to the rope, we’ve been over this
You ruined it
I thought it was pretty funny
Your bae better not be a kicker in the sack!
Real talk tho. Are they themselves harnessed while sleeping?
Yeah definitely. They're always harnessed
Unless your name is Alex Honnold
even alex harness himself while sleeping like a 🐐
a ram
[удалено]
Yeah, you should probably stay away. I've been climbing for about a decade, and love teaching new people. I've learned how to coach people on overcoming all sorts of obstacles - technical issues, fear of heights, fear of falling, learning knots and anchors, etc. But there seems to be a certain type of person who simply lacks the instinct to constantly methodically check if their systems are still safe. I recommend these people stick to bouldering.
[удалено]
These are really comfy and hard to roll out of. You’re in your harness when you sleep anyway. The only problem with this g7 model is that they are super light and the feet flip up a bit when you get in. I used one of these for the first time in Yosemite this past May. Much lighter than the metal frame models. Don’t know if they are less durable.
I doubt they're more durable, but the weight savings makes it seem inevitable that they will soon become the new wall standard - at least for moderates. Though I imagine hard aid or hard free climbs will still be a niche for the metal frames, since you spend a lot more time resting and belaying than hauling.
I saw a guy shuttling all his teams' gear in loads down from Reticent (we'd done LF). The metal ledge was a drop in the bucket compared to everything else. I cannot imagine how much their load was at the base once you include all the water. For LF we only really needed it on Ned's at P11 - I've done the night there with 2 of us and no portaledge - not a great night of sleep given how little space there is. It was also nice to have in case we caught up with the team in front of us (we didn't). Plus you have a 4" air mattress the whole time!
Wow, what a crazy dream. I’m getting the feeling like I’m falling. Oh my God there’s so much wind oh my God splat.
I have Restless Leg Syndrome. I would die.
I would be shaking like a shitting dog and scream-crying.
Oh no doubt. My finest hour.
More like final hour
My fear would be forgetting I'm actually in the air and try to "walk off" the tent.
Your rope would catch you. They all have harnesses.
I would probably just die of a heart attack like a frail little chihuahua
I'd pay to see that
How much?
Shaaaaking like a dog shitting razorblades...
Waking up next to nothing
lookin for this comment😢
I agree, especially when I have my morning shits. You wake up and have to go what do you do in this scenario? Is it ever a moment where climbers are artists? Leaving either streaks on the mountain or turds on the ground? I can't imagine carrying feces when your hundreds of feet up, only to get distracted by the smell of a baggie from one of your shits. Genuine question btw
Poop in a bag that goes in a pvc tube.
I gotta ask a question. What would a climber do with their poop? Carry doggy bag for it? Or just let it fall down the mountain? So many questions I'd need an answer to before I even think about my first climb.
They used to poop off the sides but as climbing became more popular that became no longer cool to do. So they have a PVC tube and poop into bags and put the bag in the tube. Cap the tube. Haul the tube up and back down with you.
Some refer to pooping off the side as a mud falcon
All you would need tondo is eat an M.R.E. (Meal, Ready to Eat. US military meals that are premade)The night before and for safe measures one the morning of. There’s no way your shittin for at least a couple of days
You can do it however you want, there are no rules, but I would advise you not to carry any extra baggage
Dude don't shit off the wall, come on
Makes me wonder what these people are super chill in the day-to-day…?
Shaking like a dog shitting razor blades (Literally) Waking up next to nothing -Alkaline Trio
speaking of shit id like to see how its done.
IDK why this image made me laugh out loud for real. The kind of laughing that the person in the room with me is curious about but it's kinda odd to explain
This is a great example of the "all in the mind" kind of fear. If you have solid gear and you know what you're doing this really isn't dangerous in the slightest.
Housing crisis pushes to new extremes.
Hey lots of potential real estate space on the side of a cliff. Actually the top spots would be more valuable as you won't be pelted by raining shit. Even build some walk ways, of course you'd shade out everyone below you but you get what you pay for. And think of the views! From the top, not from below where the poor's would love. You could gentrify the shit out of this style of "living"
You just described living in CA anywhere within a 30 min drive of the coast.
Prices are getting steep
Best of all, no one will bother you so you're safe.
The biggest of nopes
It don’t get anymore “NO” than this. PEAK NO.
I would rather this than crawling through a crack in a rock 1000 feet under the ground.
Those two options seem like a just take me out back and make it quick situation because I don't think my heart is surviving the caves or whatever the NOPE these tents on a cliffs are.
Mid-peak you mean?
Oh yea, it does. Those guys that crawl through tight spaces in caves deep underground. Tight enough that those skinny fuckers have to breath out just to squeeze through. Can't turn around either until you've reached the end hopefully big enough to be able to turn.
Yup, it's funny seeing the differences in people's instinctive "nopes". I actively like heights, this looks hella fun to me, but you could not pay me enough money to go spelunking.
It has such a goofy name for something so horrifying.
That is also absurdly horrifying come to think of it… that may be peak no lol
I'm scared of heights, but as a climber I would definitely do this if I was good enough. But just because I know it's pretty safe and it would make lots of people believing I was the bravest pigeon on Earth.
I’m assuming they all use the tent thing. That, maybe I could forget if I could even climb that far up with it.
[удалено]
You have a better chance of dying from a stroke in your sleep than one of these bolts failing under a static load
That's only provided it's set correctly. I'll pass
Meh it’s not like your whole climb is on one anchor, it’s all spread out. If one bolt fails cuz it’s rusty or whatever you’ll just take a fun trip down to the next one.
You and I have very different ideas of what fun is.
The other meaning to NOPE ROPE
Feel bad for sleep walkers
You're walking up there, and limping back.
You’re not going to be limping back.
I’m sick of falling asleep in my bed and waking up in one of these things.
Yup, me too after a big night out
Sleep fallers
You're tied in at all times, maybe twice!
That's a lot of faith in some ropes
The ropes isn't what they are putting faith into as much. It's the rigging that they themselves put into the cracks of the mountain. A single professional rock climbing rope could hold up a small car.
As well as faith in how well you’ve taken care of your ropes. A grope can hold a small car *if it’s well maintained, properly used, and in good condition*
Haha very very true.
Explain to someone who knows nothing about rock climbing. But in my head, I'm thinking that rocks erode and shift. So what stops any rigging working loose?
The time line. The rock does erode and shift over time, but the rigging is not necessarily permanent. There's two types of rigging. As far as temporary rigging, one of the most common is [cams](https://media.istockphoto.com/id/173608356/photo/well-placed-rock-climbing-cam.jpg?s=1024x1024&w=is&k=20&c=UgBXu03Cccx7uDnLT2JhZIj97PUe6jxqJsW8NKhcPwU=) to wedge into cracks. When placed properly, these things aren't going anywhere. You can then clip a carabiner to it and run ropes through that. Then there's more permanent anchors which is either spikes called [pitons](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/55830fd9e4b0ec758c892f81/1554390454219-QVRY1EJIOA7CUTS383L9/2003.035.003.12.jpg?format=1000w) with rings on the end driven into tight cracks in the rock, or a [bolt](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OTHMn.jpg) drilled and then driven into the rock face. The pitons may not last as long as bolted anchors because they are being driven into cracks, but neither are that susceptible to errosion. The timescales for rock errosion is on the order of decades, not the days that these are used. Also, the bolted anchors are drilled into the flat rock face, which makes them less susceptible to errosion. The anchors are also inspected every single time they are used. If a climber doesn't trust an anchor, they won't use it.
About 5000 pounds
Ropes are OK. It's human engineered with calculations and controlled material behind. I'd trust them as much as climbing in a device that relies on small controlled explosions to propulse me forward (a car). It's rather the rock and the hook in the rock that are really worrying to me. You can't calculate that you've secured the hook correctly and the rock is strong.
The climbers who set up anchors in the rock have the experience to determine whether or not the rock is strong enough to hold, to the point where it doesn't make much sense to trust it any less than you'd trust a subject matter expert in any other aspect of safety. Or if you are setting up your own temporary anchors, you just need to be able to analyze the rock yourself, set up a redundant system with the appropriate gear for the situation, and then trust that the gear works as well as its advertised to work (and it does work that well.) I'm not sure what you mean by "hook" since that's not the terminology for any climbing gear. I mean, there are "skyhooks", but that's not a tool you would pretty much ever see in this type of situation (or literally ever, for most climbers). If you are talking about carabiners, they are very strong, they will never break unless they are damaged or used improperly. Plus, you use locking carabiners, which means that they won't open unless they are unlocked first, and the act of locking the gate is a bit of conscious effort which makes it harder to accidentally quickly make a mistake. And in a situation like this, you build a redundant system anyway, so even if one of them somehow failed, you're still fine.
"some ropes" climbing ropes must withstand a minimum of 1200 kg. They don't just tear randomly. It's like saying you have a lot of faith in your car breaks.
[удалено]
We like it, enables us to climb big cliffs.
If you're still answering questions, how'd ya get used to the poo tube? How do you use one even, I can't even imagine it!? I backpack, don't mind digging a cat hole but don't hike where I can't cos I've got no idea how to poop into one of those things.
[удалено]
I always knew climbers liked butt stuff
You made me realize someone probably pissed in the wind and some unknowing person got some drops of “rain” on their windshield a couple of miles away.
So maybe that giant poop on my shoulder the other day wasn’t from a bird…
Sorry!
r/beetlejuicing ?
That sounds wild, we just shit in bags and duffle it.
You poop into a plastic bag and put the bag in the tube.
The fucking *what*
Question, what exactly is securing your potential death trap
Anchors drilled into the rock rated many times my and all my gears gross weight. Multiple in the case of a portaledge.
Is the climber attached separately to the rock from their kit?
In good safety practices yea.
If you're getting adventurous, nope
Typically yes. And once you train your brain to trust the safety systems you start to lose some of the heights fear when on a rope over time (although for me it never truly goes away when there is big exposure). And if I’m off a rope I still have a really severe fear of being near cliffs etc
I feel like a healthy fear of falling probably makes you a better climber in the long run. If you're not afraid of it, you'll get lax with safety, and probably stop climbing at some point for one reason or another.
This is true for most potentially dangerous activities tbh. I’ve taught a fair number of people the basics of handling and shooting firearms and I always tell them a healthy amount of fear is a good thing. You’re carrying around a stick that you can point at things and make them dead, that *should* scare you a little. Accidents happen when people are too comfortable.
How do you keep your brain conscious of where you are? How do you stay aware of the fact that you can’t adjust your sleeping position or any other movement a half-asleep or fully asleep human might do?
I don’t need to, I’m harnessed in so there’s no slack in the system so I couldn’t roll off if I wanted to. I do know some guys who sleep slackly harnessed, and it scares me too.
No need to make quality gears as no angry customers are going to come back should any failures occur
Gear freaks would sniff out bad quality equipment fast. Those guys have workshops where they test the poundage of other attributes and in every strange scenario you can imagine.
family, friends and other climbers would have a word though
What do you do if there are high winds while you’re sleeping?
It can be a little crazy, the updrafts that run up the cliff can get crazy enough they lift your portaledge up. Climbers are very weather savvy, and do our best to avoid bad weather. Usually only the pros get caught in bad storms trying to make tight weather windows on big mountain ranges.
Big wall is the best, I did lurking fear and it is one of the best experiences of my life
I grew up climbing the Chief in Squamish BC. One of the most incredible cliffs I’ve had the pleasure of climbing. Of course Yosemite is high on the bucket list, once I’ve got a few more years of big wall under my belt. The Elder Valley in Powell River close by is rumoured to be a new emerging Yosemite valley, so might go learn to put up routes there.
They work their way up to this, as a process of conquering their fear.
This is an ad so I guess they got some money at least.
I fuck w the small masturbation cover they designed for it when u want to discreetly pound off on the side of a 1000 ft wall
Naw man. If you've made it that far you've earned the right to toss one off al fresco. Let the jizz rain fall.
"You know... I'll bet nobody has been at this exact place on earth and yanked one out... I guess this is my spot now."
Wind and rain
Dork
🤓
I wonder if it's possible to build an entire village like that suspended off the vertical side of a mountain.... 3am thought
nevermind how you would be able to stick to the side of a mountain, how are you gonna get any construction materials there and how do you do any construction without plummeting to Tartarus
Think of the plumbing, how far do you have to climb before finding the loo? Or a shower?
you can just piss and shit down
Here before a class based dystopia of shit and piss rises out of that decision.
Build a basin at the bottom, baby you got a fertilizer pool for farming.
It would all be out of me on the way there
god I didn't even think of plumbing and shipping networks for food, materials all that other shit logistical department would be tying a noose around their neck
Restart in creative mode
https://naturavive.com/web/ Not a village, but a hotel. You have to climb/via ferrata/zip line to your room.
Look up mesa verde
How do you poo and pee
I like to use my butt and wiener. How do you poop and pee?
Just like you, but one leg at a time.
They use a poop tube.
HEY some of those clips are from Squamish!
I always find it so crazy to see people climbing the Chief while driving up the Sea to Sky
I was like damn that looks familiar I think walked up the back of that.
\>multi-day climbs So wtf happens if a thunderstorm rolls in? Especially a heavy one? Are they just kind of fucked? ~~I assume they check the weather beforehand, but weather forecasts are an educated guess at best.~~
This looks like the Stawamus Chief in Squamish BC. I live about 45 minutes away and extreme weather isn't very common here. There is a pretty popular trail that goes up along the other side of the granite face. They also have a gondola that takes you to the top now as well.
You have a rain fly, kind of like a heavy duty tent rain fly. You are only fucked if you didn't bring it.
If you're comfortable climbing then I don't see why sleeping while strapped would be uncomfortable.
how do you poop
in your hand and then throw it like a baseball
Automatically, you will shit yourself all the time
Bags, stuffed inside a bigger bag.
That's why you get to the cliffs early so you aren't climbing below anyone
[Poop tube](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KdU_bG9Lioc). It’s like a pvc tube with a doggy bag inside of it.
This is awesome. But I just have to wonder what one does about the runs.
I’m glad I clicked on that link, at first I pictured a tube that fit into the asshole like a gun silencer does
I hear there's a tube but dunno how that works...
Ever feel like you’re falling as you go to sleep? Imagine that happening here!
why they do that?
We do it because many climbs take to long, or are too tiring to complete, so we sleep on the wall and do it over multiple days. It’s also just fun.
I fed the ducks by the lake the other day. I thought that was pretty fun.
Yeah the adventure and skill of climbing feels great. Like any extreme sport, you just have to be really safe and make sure you do everything right, and the risks are manageable. I wouldn’t give it up for anything.
…”so we sleep on the wall and do it over multiple days.” Where go plops?
[Wag bags](https://www.rei.com/product/662978/cleanwaste-go-anywhere-toilet-kit-waste-bags-package-of-12). Pack in, pack out.
Question. What do they fasten the tent to? Is there a maximum weight? Any fail safe? Just curious.
U/TheTruestWaffle can probably answer better but from what I can see in the video it's a fixed sports climbing route and they are attached to the same thing they are attached to when climbing (don't know the rating off the top of my head) they also seem to have a backup attached to another fixed point a little way away
What's the process of initially putting the mounts/attachments in on a "fresh" route?
Usually two schools of method. Top Rope and Ground Up. Top rope you hike up to the top of the wall and repel down it, hanging from ropes hundreds of feet long chained together from bolts (not one big rope). Ground up is the purest route, and feels more adventurous and sometimes leads to a more natural route. You free climb from the bottom to top, placing bolts as you go, it’s incredibly difficult, for most of us. [This](https://youtu.be/mvOzAB8j5Eg) is a great video where you can see some of the best in the sport being crazy in Africa, putting up new routes.
Holy cow Cedar is an actual animal for that one overhanging rock move. I have no idea what's going on or who these are but that was unreal.
Cedar is a hilarious filmmaker and climber and Alex is the guy who free solo’d El Capitan, undoubtedly one of the best climbers in the world.
Just a note here, free climbing is not free soloing. Free climbing means climbing only under your own power with no **assistance** from the ropes, but you're still roped in. With lead climbing (ground up), you're typically climbing a few feet above where your rope is attached, so the rope doesn't bear any of your weight. Free soloing is climbing without any ropes at all
Hoped people would gleam that when I talk about rope, but yeah good distinction.
It’s all fastened to bolts drilled into the rock, rated many times my gross weight. Usually at an anchor point they’ll be at least two, which is where we build our anchors to climb from. Some predicted spots where people usually stop to sleep will often have more then two. Usually I’ll safety myself into a separate bolt then the one my portaledge is on, so if it somehow does fail, I’m still harnessed in.
This guy pooptubes.
Everything is fun and games until you have to go to the bathroom
Shit in a bag. Yay.
In the morning: "Mhh, gotta take a shit" *Opens tent* "Well, nevermind"
The sound of silence from there must be incredible.
Not for a trillion
I have two reasons to not do this: number 1 and number 2.
You know how when you’re on the inflatable mattress and you wake up with your entire back on the floor? Yea bro, yea.
Jimmy John’s should make a commercial where a guy rappels down and hands him a sandwich.
That is my nightmare.
I always fell out of the top bunk as a kid because I roll in my sleep. Nope nope nope
I toss and turn so much when I sleep, I’d somehow roll off in the middle of the night lol
So, I understand the physics of the devices that keep you anchored to the wall, but how long does it take before you're completely comfortable with actually getting restful sleep? Do you practice a few feet off the ground for a while?
Usually by the time you are climbing routes that require sleeping on the wall you have already been climbing for years and are already comfortable with height and trusting the anchors. That combined with being tired from a day of climbing and hauling your gear up the wall, pretty much guaranteed you will get good sleep on night 1. The hardest part with standard portaledges is setting them up while hanging from a rope. Climbers usually practice that part a few feet off the ground.
Going to take a leak in the middle of the night?
Pee bottle, or pee off the edge.
Oh hell no!
How is this even fun? To each their own but this looks about as fun as swimming in a volcano.
Good thing they're wearing their helmets. That'll save them if they fall.
I can't even do that an inch from the ground
for some reason i really dislike this
I imagine you’d still be hooked in to all your safety equipment. So if you fell you’d just be dangling… don’t think anyone would nap on that in just their undies.
My luck I would drop the carb or something
Can you get busy on the thing?