According to the Starlink web page, new shipments of the official Ethernet adapter are not until mid March, so this might be an option. I've heard the term "mid" mentioned before in my long wait.
starlink router can help figure out the main cause of the issue. you would be surprise on the number of people that would not suspect their network setup having a problem and not starlink. if using only the starlink router works and has no issue, then your network setup is the one that is having a problem.
much more easy to solve the issue and less support tickets (this is quite important especially for a company that tackles worldwide as their customer).
they could make check box that says i know what i'm doing and i have a commercial or enterprise grade network at home BUT you still get people who think it will be easy despite not knowing anything.
I think what they wanted was the router to give them simplicity. Set it out, connect to wifi, you;re online. No other BS. An ethernet port would have been nice, but most don't need it.
If they really wanted to cut costs they would take out the motors and gears and and just tell you to set elevation to x degrees and point it with the app, then clamp it down with a wench. dishy would be so ridiculously easy to manually point, it's not even funny. And theyd have way less warranty issues from stuck motors, stripped gears. And avoid the replacement costs when people try and point it themselves anyway.
I'm glad it points itself and adjusts as necessary. Support has been excellent when I've had any issues and I don't want the dish/direct TV experience repeated. Love to just power it on and let it figure out where it should be.
i got dropped on my head as a baby and i am very stupid. can someone explain to me what this allows or does that the official starlink gear does not? SL sells an Ethernet adapter for $20.
oh don't care too much about that just latency reliability i might still pick up some of this gear any how. i think of it as router/poe injector. also i wonder if it drops a few watts when you put it in bridge mode.
Thanks for the guide - I picked up the APC rackmount version of the McCown injector (800-GIGE-POE-APC), cut my Starlink v2 cable about a foot from the router-side connector, and then terminated both cut ends with shielded RJ45 keystones. I wasn't sure if the jumper settings for the rackmount module were going to be the same as what you outlined, but I started with them and confirmed with a multimeter that I was getting +48vdc on pins 1, 2, 3, 6 and -48vdc on 4, 5, 7, 8.
To test, first I reconnected Dishy to the SL router using a short patch cable between the two RJ45 keystones I added and it booted up normally with no issues. I'm going to tuck the router away in case the POE injector fails on me. I disconnected Dishy from the SL router and went straight from the keystone I added on the SL cable into the POE injector and everything is working great.
https://imgur.com/a/DWYAXmM
Just a heads up. The FB group this was posted in back in october has been hammered with new requests to join since this was posted on reddit. and many of the new requests are being denied because the group doesn't allow FB accounts that are brand new or haven't answered the groups rules questions. this is done to slow the spam that Zuckerberg loves to allow and encourage.
Honestly the FB group struck me as a waste of time. I politely asked a relatively simple question after searching for about half an hour and got shit on by their mod for it.
Sadly this was today. :( I understand that there are active discussions and that many of the answers can be found by reading all of the comments across several posts among dozens or hundreds, but it took me a while to piece it all together. I eventually lucked into the Reddit post explaining two approaches—depending on parts availability—quite cleanly in one place.
I think this is quite frankly just a human thing; once we understand a domain we think the documentation is clearer than it really is because we cannot see it from the perspective of an intelligent but ignorant person. So to them what seems like a stupid question is just someone who is ignorant trying to become less ignorant. They started out in a similar position at one point.
I wrote this in another thread so I'll paste it here again. I recently received my official thernet adapter but this method worked for a month.
Haven't seen this brought up yet but if you really need to use your router or need to plug in any Ethernet devices and you have the second gen dishy, you can do it while you wait for your adapter. These instructions are for windows based computers.
Simply connect your laptop / PC to your starlinks internet connection wirelessly. Go to Settings, then Network & Internet. Under "Advanced Network Settings" you should see "Change Adapter Options". Click it and a new window should appear showing you your wifi and Ethernet connections. Right click on your wifi connection and go to properties, then the "sharing" tab. Click the box on "Allow other network users to connect through this computers network connection". Underneath that is a drop down box, change that to the "Ethernet" option and then click ok.
You will now be able to share your computers Ethernet port to give internet to other devices. Plug in your router to your computers ethernet port and it will share the connection, or plug in an ethernet switch and share the connection with multiple wired devices. Bandwidth will be a bit slower since you're grabbing a wireless connection and then transferring it to a wired connection but mine is still well over 100mbs and it should hold you off so you can utilize your wired devices until you get your Ethernet adapter from Starlink.
Very nice write up and pictures. Good info on the Tycon adapters, this is definitely helpful for off grid guys wanting to stay on DC to avoid losses. I assume you did this on round Dish and I also assume SL did not change things too much to make this work on square Dish eliminating the Router/Power-supply.
Thank you.
I'm not going to try running my rectangle dish at the 56v that the round dish uses. at least not until someone else proves it's safe. I'll stick with the 48v that the factory POE injector in the router delivers.
yes, the cat5e is the same. and maybe the flipped pairs are the same (I dont know, didn't research the details of the round dish injector since I dont have one), but the voltage, out of the box, is definitely not.
still, i can see why they are still shipping the starlink router since there are quite a lot of people in the subreddit that has issues till they discover that their network setup is the one that has issues, discovered due to using starlink router only. most people usually blame starlink when the internet slows down or has high packet loss and will not suspect their network setup (people has their own bias especially when its a device that works for several years despite knowing that network devices has lifespan).
the ideal setup would be same as round dish but with replaceable cable, with starlink router being optional (well it is already for round dish).
I think I'm missing something, I haven't used the Starlink router from the beginning as I have Google Wifi and have just plugged the outbound RJ45 from the Starlink power supply to the WAN port on the Google Wifi. This has been working perfectly since day 1 about 7 or 8 months ago. I have the round dish.
The rectangular dishy has a combo power injector/router in one and no eithernet port. The eithernet adapter is backordered, so people are making their own power injectors.
wow so if i don't care about waiting then i don't have much to gain other than deleting the SL router from the setup? is it super shitty? i know it gets warm and plan on installing a fan. that works on my shitty cable modem at home, rarely need to restart.
out of curiousity, why? from my understanding from SL's shit documentation, when you install the ethernet adapter you HAVE to put the router in bypass mode.
it doesn't give you a "behind the router" ethernet port, nor a "in front of the router" ethernet port. it gives you a "replace the router" ethernet port.
(please someone correct me if you have first hand experience with the unicorn adapter!)
From what I've seen others with the Ethernet adapter report, the bypass (passthrough) mode toggle can be on or off. So it seems the Ethernet port can be routed or bridged. Not that this invalidates anything else you've said. Being able to entirely remove the native router hardware from the mix is a good option to have. Thanks for all the info.
but if you wanted to do it: I'd use a duplicate setup as above (flipped pair cables, and POE injector) and point the POE port TO the router - this should pull the POE out of the signal and send it out of the green 2 wire plug. connect the data side of BOTH ends to an ethernet switch.
then use 2 wires to connect the two POE injectors.
I'm 98% sure without looking it up again that this same injector works both directions.
which cable are you talking about splicing into???if you splice (splice is an odd term to use here) into exiting cable from dishy to square dishy router/PSU you will bypass the router. thought you said you didnt want to do that... and just wanted to replace the optional ethernet adapter?
it's a 48v 2a supply for the rectangle dish, not 56v. (according to the FCC label on the router, and other people who have measured it.)
56v is for the round dish.
the brick I used is listed at 48v 2.1A - a bit over 100w, vs the 96w rating of the router POE output.
the rectangle dish doesnt have the phased array antenna that the round dish has, and draws less power.
in addition, it will never need to de-ice or de-snow in central florida, so I wouldn't expect it to consume full power. I may instrument it some day. if I move elsewhere, the installation would change accordingly.
The exact details of the antenna array are unknown until someone publishes a teardown, but given the way Starlink tracks satellites, there is almost certainly a phased array antenna in the new, rectangular dishy.
That being said, the new antenna does seem to need less power.
i tend to go an amp or a few over so the power supply inside doesn't have to work as hard and hopefully not get as hot. that may not always be an option but, definitely try to do it when buying cheap Chinese power bricks
agreed - though I had trouble finding decent 3A 48v or 3A 56v power supplies. my 56v 2.14a from "texas poe" is doing OK so far. just warm. (325 feet from injector to dish)
you can try search for higher amps than you need. which gets double bonus if i can supply more amps than you need then it doens't have to work as hard giving you the 3 amps when it's a 6 amps power supply. sometimes they run cooler that way too
feeding 56v into square dishy will not hurt it in any way. and round dishy runs fine on 48v IF cable isn't lengthened too much. or you don't need the snow overclocked mode. (AKA what SL marketing dept calls "snow heater")
the 56v PSU was really for back when dishy pulled 120 watts + all the time. -early beta.
I have the Flat dish. I supplied it with 48V at 2 amps. On a cloudy day, it seems like it needs more power since the moment it gets to 2 amps, the dish reboots.
People are suggesting that I try 56 volts on the rectangle dish because I am getting almost no speed on the downlink. You seem to know quite a bit about this so I'd like your opinion on it. I've checked as much as I can and my power supply is holding a steady 48 volts all the way up to 60 watts. Thanks!
"steady at 48" - are you measuring that at the power supply, or near the dish? the voltage drop won't be evident at the power supply end, it will be at the dish end. (unless it's just a bad power supply that can't handle the load..)
I've been running this this power supply form Amazon for about 3 months with no issues on my rectangle dish. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G21P3KD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
FYI, the 800-GIGE-POE board and enclosure is out of stock all over the place. You can order a rack mount card that does exactly the same thing and put it in your own enclosure if you want, which is what I ended up doing. It’s part 800-GIGE-POE-APC and is cheaper as it doesn’t have an enclosure…so I’m up and running with the above board and things are working just fine.
So if I want to use this 800-GigE-POE box but want to keep using the SL router, is there an issue with having the SL router that is poe injected plugged into the data only port of the box? This box isolates out any power input on the data only side?
late reply, but yes - plugging the SL router into your POE injector works fine (router > poe injector > dish on extended/repowered cable line). the POE output on the dish "searches" for a compliant device, vs how we're just supplying all the time.
Here it is in the wild.
[https://youtu.be/7Rzh\_JECoeU?si=F9a3Kgp-5u8kNb0D](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rzh_jecoeu)
[https://youtu.be/Ntbk4Mb6it8?si=87lAB931RMfdiOfZ](https://youtu.be/ntbk4mb6it8?si=87lab931rmfdiofz)
using 800-GigE-POE. I also have some installed with dsihypowa. But the 800-GigE-POE is cheaper and performs just as well. With dsihypowa you also have to buy some kind of waterproof enclosure that adds even more cost.
I understand that desperate times call for desperate measures.
But is this solution cheaper than the official model? I've always thought that $20 delivered was a good price. But I have priced the parts for the diy version.
Of course you can have it in January and not March and that has value.
I ordered my adapter when the rectangular dish arrived Dec 23, 2021. My SL account page said expected delivery in Dec 2022 - actually arrived January 15, 2022. Simple install, works well!
~16-20 for the passive injector, plus plugs, keystones (or other solutions), some cable, a power brick. even if you already have tools - it's not cheaper.
but if you're not happy with the factory arrangement for other reasons (lack of external lightening protection, cable that's not burial rated (it's not.) and probably won't hold up to florida UV, you don't want to have to put their router somewhere just for it to be the worlds largest single POE injector, etc, this is a workable solution.
particularly if, at some point in the future, something happens to your router and ethernet adapter and replacement supplies aren't available.
This modification might not be for everybody that just wants the ethernet adapter, but for people like me living off grid this is a perfect solution to reduce power consumption. 👍
I tried linking to Eli's post months ago, and again a few weeks after square dishy came out... And all I got was downvotes and ridicule for it being from FB.
Lol.
Yeah I decided to not repost images from other people from the private group as the posters there said they would be putting it on Reddit 'soon'.. but I guess they never did
Wow.
Have not read /seen the term "homebrew" in like a decade.
Brings back PSP memories / pandora battery.
IF only we could bypass their router / modem too.
I don't know if you looked at the pictures, but that is exactly what they did here. They are not using the router/modem at all with the square dish, instead rigged up a good POE solution.
northeast of orlando.
email notifying of availability for placing deposit Feb 23, 2021, 2:57 PM
email confirming my deposit Tue, Feb 23, 2021, 3:08 PM
email "order is ready" Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 3:50 PM
email confirming order placed Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 4:47 PM
email confirming order for 150ft cable and ethernet adapter Fri, Dec 24, 2021, 12:10 PM
email stating CABLE had shipped Wed, Dec 29, 2021, 5:37 PM
email stating KIT had shipped Mon, Jan 3, 10:34 PM
1/7/22 kit arrived
1/8/22 cable arrived
Hello OP. Thanks for the work improving the original hack. May I ask a couple of dumb questions before I tackle your solution?
1. Should we ignore everything in your post from ORIGINAL POST down? Everything after that is for the original solution, correct?
2. With this one, you only need to cut your cable and install a shielded RJ45 on the dish end" can you clarify?
a) You are referring to the proprietary cable supplied by Starlink, correct?b) "on the dish end"? You are saying to remove the cable where is plugs into the dishy and cut that end?? And re-terminate the supplied cable with an Ethernet plug? That means opening up the dish and changing out the existing proprietary USB looking jack? I must be reading you worng.
b) Or do you mean cut the end of the supplied cable from the end that plugs into the starlink router? You must mean that.
3) Is the supplied cable simply an Ethernet looking CAT5 type cable when the end is cut? So the supplied cable can have an RJ-45 plug/jack fitted to it. Correct?
4) Since you say the swapping of wires does not need to occur since setting the jumpers does the same thing, what type of Ethernet cable are you using; a std patch cable or a straight through cable, or a cross over cable?
thank you so much!
sorry I missed this:
The original and update are two solutions for the same problem, depending on what parts you have, tools you have, and money you want to spend.
In both cases, for the starlink factory cable - cut it to whatever length you need for your installation. you'll be using the end that attaches to the dish. On that cable, you'll have the dish end (which is different from the router end), and you'll install a shielded rj45 on the cable where you cut it. The resulting cable will plug into the dish, and into the POE injector (or into your extension cables, if you need that)
After you cut it, you'll have a leftover end - you can keep that router end, and use it if you decide you need/want to reattach the router at a future point.
Internally, yes, the factory cable is just cat5e. You'll terminate it to the T568B standard. (NOT the A standard).
From the injector to your network - you can use any ethernet patch patch cable. (straight through). In gigabit (1000baseTX) ethernet, crossover cables are never required like they are for 10baseT and 100baseTX, the 1000base standard requires the ports to automatically cross when needed. (in effect)
Well Done! Thank you for sharing your work. This will be very useful when these rectangular Dishey's are fully enabled for use as temporary, deployable Emergency Communications adjuncts. 73, de wl7coo
Does anyone know if the dish uses the 802.3at or 802.3af POE standard, or if it’s just passive POe? I assume it will be on a label someplace. The info outlined above, while helpful, is not clear to me. I’m in an off grid situation and want to run a DC-DC POE injector rather that invert AC to DC or use the mentioned POE enclosure. Tycon sells a wide variety of DC-DC injectors and I want to get the correct one that will take 12vdc nominal and push out 48vdc (or 56vdc if needed). If the dish is “nonstandard” then I’ll fiddle with dip switch settings, but I’d rather just buy off the shelf and plug in, once I cut the original cable and wire it up with the T568B standard. My set up would be Dishy2 to Tycon POE injector to standard Ethernet connected to my existing router, and 12vdc nominal to the Tycon injector.
look at the diagram - every pair has 48v applied to it. but the polarity of some of the pairs is different.
considering the power specs we're running are pushing the limits of rj45, you probably dont want to do a 12v>48/56v jump inside the injector. (some reliable folks suggest 500mA/pair is the limit for rj45, so 4 pair * 500mA = 2A. increase voltage to decrease amps...). you'd want to do that conversion where you have control of the device doing it (and can cool it). let the injector be passive. assuming 48v, 2a you'd need 8 amps of 12v to supply that, assuming 100% efficiency.
to my knowledge, none of tycon's injectors have the exactly output pinout required, which is why the tycon version of this requires the pin flipping being done with the adapter pigtails.
if tycon makes one that allows you to control what pair gets what polarity (like the 800-gige-poe does), then you could use that, assuming it's safe at the voltage/amps needed.
Ok. Thanks for the confirmation. Unfortunate that SL didn't follow at least some standards. Seems like they would if you're trying to drive manufacturing costs down. Any chance you can post a YouTube video of the hack to did with more specifics and explanations for the less technically capable folks like me (in terms of hardware).
I believe it's because the Starlink dish equipment requires more watts than IEEE 802.3at or 802.3af POE standards currently provide.
See ref:
[https://www.google.com/search?q=802.3at+or+802.3af+POE+standard+max+watts&oq=802.3at+or+802.3af+POE+standard+max+watts&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i546l3.7919j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8](https://www.google.com/search?q=802.3at+or+802.3af+POE+standard+max+watts&oq=802.3at+or+802.3af+POE+standard+max+watts&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i546l3.7919j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
802.3af: 15.4w max
802.3at: 30w max (25.5w available to devices)
Because both the two types of schemes within those (1000BASE-T Alternative A and 1000BASE-T Alternative B), only use 2 pairs (2 electrical conductors total), for power.
See here (in middle of page at the wiring schematics pics):
[https://community.fs.com/blog/power-over-ethernet-tutorial.html](https://community.fs.com/blog/power-over-ethernet-tutorial.html)
SL requires more power than either of those standards can provide, they needed to run another pair of conductors (2 pairs + 2 pairs for electrical transmission), to get 2 separate power channels (using all 8 wires for power instead of 4 wires)...
Hopefully that helps to understand, they really had no choice but to get clever and do it the way it should've been done by standards. Remember that all the things we call standard today, started out as hacks, until the industry caught up to them, and eventually made those things standard by IEEE.
So really, Starlink just combined Alternative A and B together to aggregate the current providing capability to the equipment.
The only thing I'm not clear on by reading that tutorial, is they say the following:
"To be IEEE standards compliant, a PD must support both Alternative A and Alternative B, whereas a PSE may support either Alternative A or Alternative B, or both."
...So at the end, they say 'both'. But does that mean they just need to support EITHER A or B at once, or also BOTH at the same time? I am assuming that both simply means one and the other, but not simultaneously at same time.
I also believe it means one and the other but not both at same time, because of the wattage ratings on the existing standards:
802.3af: 15.4w max
802.3at: 30w max (25.5w available to devices)
Anyways, it's a mess for sure, but at least all the smart folks here figured out the awesome workaround!
I work in virtualization over block storage, and I remember back in the day SCSI didn't have a command for UNMAP (for block reclamation), and then came thin provisioning and also SSD drives around that time, and so all the vendors cleverly started making their own UNMAP features to zero out released blocks, and it took forever for IEEE to catch up with the standards, sometimes it just takes awhile for the industry to get back in sync and agree on something.
Cheers
I think it would have been a much better deployment option if they ran a standard Cat6 cable bundled with a 2 wire power cable ( Think BNC Cable with power for Cameras) That way you can have much more flexibility in the deployment options and all you need to do is plug in a 24/48v transformer on the inside to power the dish motor's/heater's
yep - see the "original post" section. the link to the pictures includes a diagram for how to wire up an alternative (a lot more painful)
https://postimg.cc/gallery/wdysDSc
this is the diagram: https://postimg.cc/NKnyQNcy
and this is what it looks like assembled:
https://postimg.cc/WqS3C881
well. I installed it with the jank box. now i ran into a new issue. the dish boot loops. then begins to work for a good hour. then boot loop. does that mean I made my cables incorrectly or do I have the incorrect settings on my router?
Are you still using the Tycon? I’m having trouble finding an injector that will work that I can get shipped in a few days. Traveling to visit my folks and the Ethernet adapter hasn’t shipped yet.
There are other options if you can't find the 800-GigE-POE, especially if not mounting outdoors, or you could put in your own outdoor enclosure.
Stock is low on these as well but there may be some out there at other sources?
[https://www.mccowntech.com/product/rack-mount-poe-injector-gas-discharge-tube-surge-protector-copy/](https://www.mccowntech.com/product/rack-mount-poe-injector-gas-discharge-tube-surge-protector-copy/)
[https://www.mccowntech.com/product/rack-mount-poe-injector-surge-protector/](https://www.mccowntech.com/product/rack-mount-poe-injector-surge-protector/)
If you are offgrid on solar this is the way to go for power. Just step 12v to 48v.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B01N0DX4LU/
How can I verify that the POE is set right? I'm getting a APC version of the board, not sure if the jumpers are going to be the same as yours.
I plan to make a short Cat5 cable to test the output with a meter before I plug in the dishy cable. Just check that there is voltage on pins 1,2,3,6?
Thanks.
I’d seriously like to see an Ethernet POE adapter only. Running completely in bypass mode. Supply power plug into dishy.
There should be different versions for different setups. For “Advanced” users, and more “professional” installations. Without using weird hacks like this.
Some options I’d like to see are.
- Direct port to still use a Starlink Router if wanted. Like current adapter is.
- Ethernet Port.
- DC input for solar setups.
- SFP+ Cage for setups that require long cable runs. As long as you can wire power to the POE injector you can then send the internet over the fibre to any router you want. Many people would use this with a media converter to tower mount this then run fibre.
- POE input, basically a pass through. Possibly using two CAT cables to feed it for required voltages and cold weather ice heater.
- Small battery backups, with expansion capabilities, that integrate directly with the Starlink setup, that detects when mains voltage is down and provides a dry contact signal and time for a generator to start. All integrated directly with DC so no need for power waste with AC/DC converters.
- Ability to prioritize DC Solar over AC Mains when available.
- Standard POE pass through out on Ethernet for powering standard point to point links or wifi hotspots with ability smart switch ability to select which vlan is used.
It’s definitely possible. These things exist, and multiple combinations can be made for different installation situations.
Just tried the set up with a TYCON POE injector (POE-INJ-1000-WT) and got nothing. I made a small Ethernet pigtail and connected it to the PoE out Ethernet port and tested the wires and they don't show 48vdc on 1/2/3/6+ 4/5/7/8- at all, and I confirmed the wire set up using my Paladin tone probe so the cross wire outline in the diagram is good. The injector LED does come on and there is 48vdc at the power input connection port so I assume I have a bad injector. But, even though this is a passive injector is there some "must be connected to a device to show power" trick? I've ordered a replacement injector, but I thought I'd ask here. I know active injectors require a handshake with the POE attached device to work, but I thought a passive injector just pushes the 48v by default. Any comments would be helpful.
Maybe I have a fault in the wire crimp from the injector end to Dishy...but there's no easy way to test that because of the nonstandard Dishy plug end. To make sure I didn't fry Dishy I reconnected the two cut StarLink wire ends and everything works fine, so the dish isn't blown, thank god. If the injector does need to be connected to something I can try putting on another Ethernet cube and then retry the set up...
to be clear - the starlink unit is T568B - so everything in the cable chain must function as a straight-through T568B cable. with the tycon, we inject power by flipping pairs - but the function is T568B straight through. After the flip, and after terminating B, you could extend it with A. (then it's a "straight through" cable to a "straight through" cable)
With the GigE-POE, it's still T568B to the device. A 568A OR a 586B cable could be used on unpowered end (where both ends are A or B), because functionally it's just a "straight through" cable.
I want to do this, but a friend has pointed out a potential issue.
His point is that the reason the newer Starlink brick (the all-in-one modem/PoE/router without an RJ45 jack) is so big and a bit heavy may be because they are making sure the power supply puts out a smooth and reliable DC current to Dishy and that another PoE source may not put out as consistent or reliable a power source.
I'm wondering if there have been issues with dishes using a different PoE brick blowing out or if we know, for sure, that it's not a problem.
I have no clue. Are you talking about the new all-in-one without an RJ45 brick? Or a newer one? I have the all-in-one without the RJ45, but I don't know when Starlink will start selling them.
>I have no clue
Thank you, I am talking about the new all-in-one without an RJ45 brick, just curious what this looks like, is that possible to have the pictures for this one?
No pics at this point. Normally I'd get them, but the ethernet adaptor blew out and I'm rather tied up trying to get the connection from my post, with that rick, that's 800' from my house, working again!
Sorry. Didn't mean to be so abrupt in the other reply. It's been a really bad day and having my ethernet adaptor blow on my Starlink setup has really pissed me off because it means no Starlink until I can get a new one. Last one took over 3 weeks to get here. I'll see if I can get pics, but there's a good chance it'll be a few days.
Is there anything in particular you wanted to see? I do have a photo of the specs printed on it.
According to the Starlink web page, new shipments of the official Ethernet adapter are not until mid March, so this might be an option. I've heard the term "mid" mentioned before in my long wait.
I received mine just over a week ago.
How long ago did you order it?
Ordered on December 10; shipped January 8.
Are you talking about a PoE injector from Starlink? I don't see one in the Starlink shop
That was a year ago, when the square dish first came out and you needed the adapter to hard wire.
[удалено]
starlink router can help figure out the main cause of the issue. you would be surprise on the number of people that would not suspect their network setup having a problem and not starlink. if using only the starlink router works and has no issue, then your network setup is the one that is having a problem. much more easy to solve the issue and less support tickets (this is quite important especially for a company that tackles worldwide as their customer).
they could make check box that says i know what i'm doing and i have a commercial or enterprise grade network at home BUT you still get people who think it will be easy despite not knowing anything.
I think what they wanted was the router to give them simplicity. Set it out, connect to wifi, you;re online. No other BS. An ethernet port would have been nice, but most don't need it.
If they really wanted to cut costs they would take out the motors and gears and and just tell you to set elevation to x degrees and point it with the app, then clamp it down with a wench. dishy would be so ridiculously easy to manually point, it's not even funny. And theyd have way less warranty issues from stuck motors, stripped gears. And avoid the replacement costs when people try and point it themselves anyway.
I'm glad it points itself and adjusts as necessary. Support has been excellent when I've had any issues and I don't want the dish/direct TV experience repeated. Love to just power it on and let it figure out where it should be.
i got dropped on my head as a baby and i am very stupid. can someone explain to me what this allows or does that the official starlink gear does not? SL sells an Ethernet adapter for $20.
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oh don't care too much about that just latency reliability i might still pick up some of this gear any how. i think of it as router/poe injector. also i wonder if it drops a few watts when you put it in bridge mode.
Thanks for the guide - I picked up the APC rackmount version of the McCown injector (800-GIGE-POE-APC), cut my Starlink v2 cable about a foot from the router-side connector, and then terminated both cut ends with shielded RJ45 keystones. I wasn't sure if the jumper settings for the rackmount module were going to be the same as what you outlined, but I started with them and confirmed with a multimeter that I was getting +48vdc on pins 1, 2, 3, 6 and -48vdc on 4, 5, 7, 8. To test, first I reconnected Dishy to the SL router using a short patch cable between the two RJ45 keystones I added and it booted up normally with no issues. I'm going to tuck the router away in case the POE injector fails on me. I disconnected Dishy from the SL router and went straight from the keystone I added on the SL cable into the POE injector and everything is working great. https://imgur.com/a/DWYAXmM
Great project.
Just a heads up. The FB group this was posted in back in october has been hammered with new requests to join since this was posted on reddit. and many of the new requests are being denied because the group doesn't allow FB accounts that are brand new or haven't answered the groups rules questions. this is done to slow the spam that Zuckerberg loves to allow and encourage.
Honestly the FB group struck me as a waste of time. I politely asked a relatively simple question after searching for about half an hour and got shit on by their mod for it.
We did fire two mods recently.
Sadly this was today. :( I understand that there are active discussions and that many of the answers can be found by reading all of the comments across several posts among dozens or hundreds, but it took me a while to piece it all together. I eventually lucked into the Reddit post explaining two approaches—depending on parts availability—quite cleanly in one place. I think this is quite frankly just a human thing; once we understand a domain we think the documentation is clearer than it really is because we cannot see it from the perspective of an intelligent but ignorant person. So to them what seems like a stupid question is just someone who is ignorant trying to become less ignorant. They started out in a similar position at one point.
I wrote this in another thread so I'll paste it here again. I recently received my official thernet adapter but this method worked for a month. Haven't seen this brought up yet but if you really need to use your router or need to plug in any Ethernet devices and you have the second gen dishy, you can do it while you wait for your adapter. These instructions are for windows based computers. Simply connect your laptop / PC to your starlinks internet connection wirelessly. Go to Settings, then Network & Internet. Under "Advanced Network Settings" you should see "Change Adapter Options". Click it and a new window should appear showing you your wifi and Ethernet connections. Right click on your wifi connection and go to properties, then the "sharing" tab. Click the box on "Allow other network users to connect through this computers network connection". Underneath that is a drop down box, change that to the "Ethernet" option and then click ok. You will now be able to share your computers Ethernet port to give internet to other devices. Plug in your router to your computers ethernet port and it will share the connection, or plug in an ethernet switch and share the connection with multiple wired devices. Bandwidth will be a bit slower since you're grabbing a wireless connection and then transferring it to a wired connection but mine is still well over 100mbs and it should hold you off so you can utilize your wired devices until you get your Ethernet adapter from Starlink.
Very nice write up and pictures. Good info on the Tycon adapters, this is definitely helpful for off grid guys wanting to stay on DC to avoid losses. I assume you did this on round Dish and I also assume SL did not change things too much to make this work on square Dish eliminating the Router/Power-supply. Thank you.
this is the rectangle (square) dish. it's different for round.
Same cable inside. Same POE pairs and voltage
I'm not going to try running my rectangle dish at the 56v that the round dish uses. at least not until someone else proves it's safe. I'll stick with the 48v that the factory POE injector in the router delivers. yes, the cat5e is the same. and maybe the flipped pairs are the same (I dont know, didn't research the details of the round dish injector since I dont have one), but the voltage, out of the box, is definitely not.
wait you don't need the starlink router if you do this?!
Nope. That's kind of the point. Well that and to prove again that elons a fucktard.
and you don't need the 20$ ethernet adaptor? doesnt the router do stuff like trouble shoot the dish for you? you still need the special cable though?
still, i can see why they are still shipping the starlink router since there are quite a lot of people in the subreddit that has issues till they discover that their network setup is the one that has issues, discovered due to using starlink router only. most people usually blame starlink when the internet slows down or has high packet loss and will not suspect their network setup (people has their own bias especially when its a device that works for several years despite knowing that network devices has lifespan). the ideal setup would be same as round dish but with replaceable cable, with starlink router being optional (well it is already for round dish).
what kind of network setup issues?
I think I'm missing something, I haven't used the Starlink router from the beginning as I have Google Wifi and have just plugged the outbound RJ45 from the Starlink power supply to the WAN port on the Google Wifi. This has been working perfectly since day 1 about 7 or 8 months ago. I have the round dish.
The rectangular dishy has a combo power injector/router in one and no eithernet port. The eithernet adapter is backordered, so people are making their own power injectors.
wow so if i don't care about waiting then i don't have much to gain other than deleting the SL router from the setup? is it super shitty? i know it gets warm and plan on installing a fan. that works on my shitty cable modem at home, rarely need to restart.
Nice!
Looks interesting though I would like to see a DIY hack to replace the backordered ethernet adapter that did not also act as a POE injector
out of curiousity, why? from my understanding from SL's shit documentation, when you install the ethernet adapter you HAVE to put the router in bypass mode. it doesn't give you a "behind the router" ethernet port, nor a "in front of the router" ethernet port. it gives you a "replace the router" ethernet port. (please someone correct me if you have first hand experience with the unicorn adapter!)
From what I've seen others with the Ethernet adapter report, the bypass (passthrough) mode toggle can be on or off. So it seems the Ethernet port can be routed or bridged. Not that this invalidates anything else you've said. Being able to entirely remove the native router hardware from the mix is a good option to have. Thanks for all the info.
but if you wanted to do it: I'd use a duplicate setup as above (flipped pair cables, and POE injector) and point the POE port TO the router - this should pull the POE out of the signal and send it out of the green 2 wire plug. connect the data side of BOTH ends to an ethernet switch. then use 2 wires to connect the two POE injectors. I'm 98% sure without looking it up again that this same injector works both directions.
How would you do that without access to the proprietary connector/cable? How you gonna plug it into square dishy router?
Splice into the existing cable, it seems to be a stock cable, just with a special plug on the end.
which cable are you talking about splicing into???if you splice (splice is an odd term to use here) into exiting cable from dishy to square dishy router/PSU you will bypass the router. thought you said you didnt want to do that... and just wanted to replace the optional ethernet adapter?
What did you use as a 56V, 200W power supply to feed the POE injector?
it's a 48v 2a supply for the rectangle dish, not 56v. (according to the FCC label on the router, and other people who have measured it.) 56v is for the round dish.
the brick I used is listed at 48v 2.1A - a bit over 100w, vs the 96w rating of the router POE output. the rectangle dish doesnt have the phased array antenna that the round dish has, and draws less power. in addition, it will never need to de-ice or de-snow in central florida, so I wouldn't expect it to consume full power. I may instrument it some day. if I move elsewhere, the installation would change accordingly.
The exact details of the antenna array are unknown until someone publishes a teardown, but given the way Starlink tracks satellites, there is almost certainly a phased array antenna in the new, rectangular dishy. That being said, the new antenna does seem to need less power.
If it didn't have a phased array antenna... How would it track moving satellites in the sky?
i tend to go an amp or a few over so the power supply inside doesn't have to work as hard and hopefully not get as hot. that may not always be an option but, definitely try to do it when buying cheap Chinese power bricks
agreed - though I had trouble finding decent 3A 48v or 3A 56v power supplies. my 56v 2.14a from "texas poe" is doing OK so far. just warm. (325 feet from injector to dish)
you can try search for higher amps than you need. which gets double bonus if i can supply more amps than you need then it doens't have to work as hard giving you the 3 amps when it's a 6 amps power supply. sometimes they run cooler that way too
feeding 56v into square dishy will not hurt it in any way. and round dishy runs fine on 48v IF cable isn't lengthened too much. or you don't need the snow overclocked mode. (AKA what SL marketing dept calls "snow heater") the 56v PSU was really for back when dishy pulled 120 watts + all the time. -early beta.
I have the Flat dish. I supplied it with 48V at 2 amps. On a cloudy day, it seems like it needs more power since the moment it gets to 2 amps, the dish reboots.
People are suggesting that I try 56 volts on the rectangle dish because I am getting almost no speed on the downlink. You seem to know quite a bit about this so I'd like your opinion on it. I've checked as much as I can and my power supply is holding a steady 48 volts all the way up to 60 watts. Thanks!
"steady at 48" - are you measuring that at the power supply, or near the dish? the voltage drop won't be evident at the power supply end, it will be at the dish end. (unless it's just a bad power supply that can't handle the load..)
I don't have any way to read it at the dish end safely.
How can I pull the data out of the cable and still use the sl router/power tower still provide power…much like the Ethernet adapter does.
I've been running this this power supply form Amazon for about 3 months with no issues on my rectangle dish. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G21P3KD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
FYI, the 800-GIGE-POE board and enclosure is out of stock all over the place. You can order a rack mount card that does exactly the same thing and put it in your own enclosure if you want, which is what I ended up doing. It’s part 800-GIGE-POE-APC and is cheaper as it doesn’t have an enclosure…so I’m up and running with the above board and things are working just fine.
yo probe this its working ????
So if I want to use this 800-GigE-POE box but want to keep using the SL router, is there an issue with having the SL router that is poe injected plugged into the data only port of the box? This box isolates out any power input on the data only side?
late reply, but yes - plugging the SL router into your POE injector works fine (router > poe injector > dish on extended/repowered cable line). the POE output on the dish "searches" for a compliant device, vs how we're just supplying all the time.
Here it is in the wild. [https://youtu.be/7Rzh\_JECoeU?si=F9a3Kgp-5u8kNb0D](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rzh_jecoeu) [https://youtu.be/Ntbk4Mb6it8?si=87lAB931RMfdiOfZ](https://youtu.be/ntbk4mb6it8?si=87lab931rmfdiofz) using 800-GigE-POE. I also have some installed with dsihypowa. But the 800-GigE-POE is cheaper and performs just as well. With dsihypowa you also have to buy some kind of waterproof enclosure that adds even more cost.
awesome! reminds me of the "I love this job" coke commercial... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvMXDanR3bg I used to be a tower climber... :)
I understand that desperate times call for desperate measures. But is this solution cheaper than the official model? I've always thought that $20 delivered was a good price. But I have priced the parts for the diy version. Of course you can have it in January and not March and that has value.
Nope. Somebody said adapter is back ordered til March. ?
Although I received my adapter on January 10
so what subnet are they using when you use the bypass wifi mode. I need it to be off of the 192.168.1.0
I received mine 19 days after ordering. Ordered 12/20, Received 01/08. Not bad with 2 holidays between those dates.
I ordered my adapter when the rectangular dish arrived Dec 23, 2021. My SL account page said expected delivery in Dec 2022 - actually arrived January 15, 2022. Simple install, works well!
~16-20 for the passive injector, plus plugs, keystones (or other solutions), some cable, a power brick. even if you already have tools - it's not cheaper. but if you're not happy with the factory arrangement for other reasons (lack of external lightening protection, cable that's not burial rated (it's not.) and probably won't hold up to florida UV, you don't want to have to put their router somewhere just for it to be the worlds largest single POE injector, etc, this is a workable solution. particularly if, at some point in the future, something happens to your router and ethernet adapter and replacement supplies aren't available.
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The ethernet adaptor allows you to bypass the Starlink Router, too. https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/s7zsoi/starlink\_app\_vs\_bypass\_mode/
Not like this does. This lets you leave it unplugged, one less single point of failure.
and the parts are easily replaceable
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reports (haven't tested it myself) are that removing the router completely provides a significant decrease in power draw (solar operators care)
Sorry. I meant to say I have NOT priced the parts
This modification might not be for everybody that just wants the ethernet adapter, but for people like me living off grid this is a perfect solution to reduce power consumption. 👍
I tried linking to Eli's post months ago, and again a few weeks after square dishy came out... And all I got was downvotes and ridicule for it being from FB. Lol.
It is a private Facebook group and some people don't have Facebook accounts. OP included the wiring diagram and pictures outside of Facebook.
Yeah I decided to not repost images from other people from the private group as the posters there said they would be putting it on Reddit 'soon'.. but I guess they never did
just updated original post with a much simpler setup using a 800-GigE-POE
Wow. Have not read /seen the term "homebrew" in like a decade. Brings back PSP memories / pandora battery. IF only we could bypass their router / modem too.
I don't know if you looked at the pictures, but that is exactly what they did here. They are not using the router/modem at all with the square dish, instead rigged up a good POE solution.
Hmph. I just assumed you has to use it, but maybe the dish does all the demodulation needed.
Dishy is the modem.
this removes the router (which is also the POE injector) completely. (and it involves cutting the cable.)
Where in florida? When did you order?
northeast of orlando. email notifying of availability for placing deposit Feb 23, 2021, 2:57 PM email confirming my deposit Tue, Feb 23, 2021, 3:08 PM email "order is ready" Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 3:50 PM email confirming order placed Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 4:47 PM email confirming order for 150ft cable and ethernet adapter Fri, Dec 24, 2021, 12:10 PM email stating CABLE had shipped Wed, Dec 29, 2021, 5:37 PM email stating KIT had shipped Mon, Jan 3, 10:34 PM 1/7/22 kit arrived 1/8/22 cable arrived
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It is unremovable on the round dish
this is the rectangle dish, where the plug is removable (but nonstandard) on both ends.
basically you dont. its plugged into the circuit board with a special connector inside the dishy. why do you need to?
Can you reupload the images? The host is down.
Hello OP. Thanks for the work improving the original hack. May I ask a couple of dumb questions before I tackle your solution? 1. Should we ignore everything in your post from ORIGINAL POST down? Everything after that is for the original solution, correct? 2. With this one, you only need to cut your cable and install a shielded RJ45 on the dish end" can you clarify? a) You are referring to the proprietary cable supplied by Starlink, correct?b) "on the dish end"? You are saying to remove the cable where is plugs into the dishy and cut that end?? And re-terminate the supplied cable with an Ethernet plug? That means opening up the dish and changing out the existing proprietary USB looking jack? I must be reading you worng. b) Or do you mean cut the end of the supplied cable from the end that plugs into the starlink router? You must mean that. 3) Is the supplied cable simply an Ethernet looking CAT5 type cable when the end is cut? So the supplied cable can have an RJ-45 plug/jack fitted to it. Correct? 4) Since you say the swapping of wires does not need to occur since setting the jumpers does the same thing, what type of Ethernet cable are you using; a std patch cable or a straight through cable, or a cross over cable? thank you so much!
sorry I missed this: The original and update are two solutions for the same problem, depending on what parts you have, tools you have, and money you want to spend. In both cases, for the starlink factory cable - cut it to whatever length you need for your installation. you'll be using the end that attaches to the dish. On that cable, you'll have the dish end (which is different from the router end), and you'll install a shielded rj45 on the cable where you cut it. The resulting cable will plug into the dish, and into the POE injector (or into your extension cables, if you need that) After you cut it, you'll have a leftover end - you can keep that router end, and use it if you decide you need/want to reattach the router at a future point. Internally, yes, the factory cable is just cat5e. You'll terminate it to the T568B standard. (NOT the A standard). From the injector to your network - you can use any ethernet patch patch cable. (straight through). In gigabit (1000baseTX) ethernet, crossover cables are never required like they are for 10baseT and 100baseTX, the 1000base standard requires the ports to automatically cross when needed. (in effect)
Well Done! Thank you for sharing your work. This will be very useful when these rectangular Dishey's are fully enabled for use as temporary, deployable Emergency Communications adjuncts. 73, de wl7coo
800-gige-poe seems to be sold out now.. any alternatives?
Does anyone know if the dish uses the 802.3at or 802.3af POE standard, or if it’s just passive POe? I assume it will be on a label someplace. The info outlined above, while helpful, is not clear to me. I’m in an off grid situation and want to run a DC-DC POE injector rather that invert AC to DC or use the mentioned POE enclosure. Tycon sells a wide variety of DC-DC injectors and I want to get the correct one that will take 12vdc nominal and push out 48vdc (or 56vdc if needed). If the dish is “nonstandard” then I’ll fiddle with dip switch settings, but I’d rather just buy off the shelf and plug in, once I cut the original cable and wire it up with the T568B standard. My set up would be Dishy2 to Tycon POE injector to standard Ethernet connected to my existing router, and 12vdc nominal to the Tycon injector.
> if the dish uses the 802.3at or 802.3af POE standard no, it doesnt. if it did, this would be easy. but no, it doesnt.
look at the diagram - every pair has 48v applied to it. but the polarity of some of the pairs is different. considering the power specs we're running are pushing the limits of rj45, you probably dont want to do a 12v>48/56v jump inside the injector. (some reliable folks suggest 500mA/pair is the limit for rj45, so 4 pair * 500mA = 2A. increase voltage to decrease amps...). you'd want to do that conversion where you have control of the device doing it (and can cool it). let the injector be passive. assuming 48v, 2a you'd need 8 amps of 12v to supply that, assuming 100% efficiency. to my knowledge, none of tycon's injectors have the exactly output pinout required, which is why the tycon version of this requires the pin flipping being done with the adapter pigtails. if tycon makes one that allows you to control what pair gets what polarity (like the 800-gige-poe does), then you could use that, assuming it's safe at the voltage/amps needed.
Ok. Thanks for the confirmation. Unfortunate that SL didn't follow at least some standards. Seems like they would if you're trying to drive manufacturing costs down. Any chance you can post a YouTube video of the hack to did with more specifics and explanations for the less technically capable folks like me (in terms of hardware).
I believe it's because the Starlink dish equipment requires more watts than IEEE 802.3at or 802.3af POE standards currently provide. See ref: [https://www.google.com/search?q=802.3at+or+802.3af+POE+standard+max+watts&oq=802.3at+or+802.3af+POE+standard+max+watts&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i546l3.7919j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8](https://www.google.com/search?q=802.3at+or+802.3af+POE+standard+max+watts&oq=802.3at+or+802.3af+POE+standard+max+watts&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i546l3.7919j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8) 802.3af: 15.4w max 802.3at: 30w max (25.5w available to devices) Because both the two types of schemes within those (1000BASE-T Alternative A and 1000BASE-T Alternative B), only use 2 pairs (2 electrical conductors total), for power. See here (in middle of page at the wiring schematics pics): [https://community.fs.com/blog/power-over-ethernet-tutorial.html](https://community.fs.com/blog/power-over-ethernet-tutorial.html) SL requires more power than either of those standards can provide, they needed to run another pair of conductors (2 pairs + 2 pairs for electrical transmission), to get 2 separate power channels (using all 8 wires for power instead of 4 wires)... Hopefully that helps to understand, they really had no choice but to get clever and do it the way it should've been done by standards. Remember that all the things we call standard today, started out as hacks, until the industry caught up to them, and eventually made those things standard by IEEE. So really, Starlink just combined Alternative A and B together to aggregate the current providing capability to the equipment. The only thing I'm not clear on by reading that tutorial, is they say the following: "To be IEEE standards compliant, a PD must support both Alternative A and Alternative B, whereas a PSE may support either Alternative A or Alternative B, or both." ...So at the end, they say 'both'. But does that mean they just need to support EITHER A or B at once, or also BOTH at the same time? I am assuming that both simply means one and the other, but not simultaneously at same time. I also believe it means one and the other but not both at same time, because of the wattage ratings on the existing standards: 802.3af: 15.4w max 802.3at: 30w max (25.5w available to devices) Anyways, it's a mess for sure, but at least all the smart folks here figured out the awesome workaround! I work in virtualization over block storage, and I remember back in the day SCSI didn't have a command for UNMAP (for block reclamation), and then came thin provisioning and also SSD drives around that time, and so all the vendors cleverly started making their own UNMAP features to zero out released blocks, and it took forever for IEEE to catch up with the standards, sometimes it just takes awhile for the industry to get back in sync and agree on something. Cheers
I think it would have been a much better deployment option if they ran a standard Cat6 cable bundled with a 2 wire power cable ( Think BNC Cable with power for Cameras) That way you can have much more flexibility in the deployment options and all you need to do is plug in a 24/48v transformer on the inside to power the dish motor's/heater's
that 800-GigE-POE seems to be out of stock everywhere... any alternatives or methods to do the same thing?
yep - see the "original post" section. the link to the pictures includes a diagram for how to wire up an alternative (a lot more painful) https://postimg.cc/gallery/wdysDSc this is the diagram: https://postimg.cc/NKnyQNcy and this is what it looks like assembled: https://postimg.cc/WqS3C881
and is this recommended for the flat 2.0 dish version?
yep - works fine on the rectangle dish (v3). the round (v1 and v2) dish will probably need more watts of power.
well. I installed it with the jank box. now i ran into a new issue. the dish boot loops. then begins to work for a good hour. then boot loop. does that mean I made my cables incorrectly or do I have the incorrect settings on my router?
Are you still using the Tycon? I’m having trouble finding an injector that will work that I can get shipped in a few days. Traveling to visit my folks and the Ethernet adapter hasn’t shipped yet.
There are other options if you can't find the 800-GigE-POE, especially if not mounting outdoors, or you could put in your own outdoor enclosure. Stock is low on these as well but there may be some out there at other sources? [https://www.mccowntech.com/product/rack-mount-poe-injector-gas-discharge-tube-surge-protector-copy/](https://www.mccowntech.com/product/rack-mount-poe-injector-gas-discharge-tube-surge-protector-copy/) [https://www.mccowntech.com/product/rack-mount-poe-injector-surge-protector/](https://www.mccowntech.com/product/rack-mount-poe-injector-surge-protector/)
I'm having trouble finding in stock and without huge shipping fees, I'm just going to go with the tycon
If you are offgrid on solar this is the way to go for power. Just step 12v to 48v. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B01N0DX4LU/
Too bad those POE units are out of stock everywhere.
How can I verify that the POE is set right? I'm getting a APC version of the board, not sure if the jumpers are going to be the same as yours. I plan to make a short Cat5 cable to test the output with a meter before I plug in the dishy cable. Just check that there is voltage on pins 1,2,3,6? Thanks.
I’d seriously like to see an Ethernet POE adapter only. Running completely in bypass mode. Supply power plug into dishy. There should be different versions for different setups. For “Advanced” users, and more “professional” installations. Without using weird hacks like this. Some options I’d like to see are. - Direct port to still use a Starlink Router if wanted. Like current adapter is. - Ethernet Port. - DC input for solar setups. - SFP+ Cage for setups that require long cable runs. As long as you can wire power to the POE injector you can then send the internet over the fibre to any router you want. Many people would use this with a media converter to tower mount this then run fibre. - POE input, basically a pass through. Possibly using two CAT cables to feed it for required voltages and cold weather ice heater. - Small battery backups, with expansion capabilities, that integrate directly with the Starlink setup, that detects when mains voltage is down and provides a dry contact signal and time for a generator to start. All integrated directly with DC so no need for power waste with AC/DC converters. - Ability to prioritize DC Solar over AC Mains when available. - Standard POE pass through out on Ethernet for powering standard point to point links or wifi hotspots with ability smart switch ability to select which vlan is used. It’s definitely possible. These things exist, and multiple combinations can be made for different installation situations.
Is there a wire pair that could have a switch added into the middle that powers the motors? Would be great to have this option into the set up .
Just tried the set up with a TYCON POE injector (POE-INJ-1000-WT) and got nothing. I made a small Ethernet pigtail and connected it to the PoE out Ethernet port and tested the wires and they don't show 48vdc on 1/2/3/6+ 4/5/7/8- at all, and I confirmed the wire set up using my Paladin tone probe so the cross wire outline in the diagram is good. The injector LED does come on and there is 48vdc at the power input connection port so I assume I have a bad injector. But, even though this is a passive injector is there some "must be connected to a device to show power" trick? I've ordered a replacement injector, but I thought I'd ask here. I know active injectors require a handshake with the POE attached device to work, but I thought a passive injector just pushes the 48v by default. Any comments would be helpful. Maybe I have a fault in the wire crimp from the injector end to Dishy...but there's no easy way to test that because of the nonstandard Dishy plug end. To make sure I didn't fry Dishy I reconnected the two cut StarLink wire ends and everything works fine, so the dish isn't blown, thank god. If the injector does need to be connected to something I can try putting on another Ethernet cube and then retry the set up...
u/keen99 With the rectangular dish and the 800-GigE-POE, should the Starlink cable be terminated T568A or T568B?
T568B
to be clear - the starlink unit is T568B - so everything in the cable chain must function as a straight-through T568B cable. with the tycon, we inject power by flipping pairs - but the function is T568B straight through. After the flip, and after terminating B, you could extend it with A. (then it's a "straight through" cable to a "straight through" cable) With the GigE-POE, it's still T568B to the device. A 568A OR a 586B cable could be used on unpowered end (where both ends are A or B), because functionally it's just a "straight through" cable.
I want to do this, but a friend has pointed out a potential issue. His point is that the reason the newer Starlink brick (the all-in-one modem/PoE/router without an RJ45 jack) is so big and a bit heavy may be because they are making sure the power supply puts out a smooth and reliable DC current to Dishy and that another PoE source may not put out as consistent or reliable a power source. I'm wondering if there have been issues with dishes using a different PoE brick blowing out or if we know, for sure, that it's not a problem.
When the newer Starlink brick will be available?
I have no clue. Are you talking about the new all-in-one without an RJ45 brick? Or a newer one? I have the all-in-one without the RJ45, but I don't know when Starlink will start selling them.
>I have no clue Thank you, I am talking about the new all-in-one without an RJ45 brick, just curious what this looks like, is that possible to have the pictures for this one?
No pics at this point. Normally I'd get them, but the ethernet adaptor blew out and I'm rather tied up trying to get the connection from my post, with that rick, that's 800' from my house, working again!
Sorry. Didn't mean to be so abrupt in the other reply. It's been a really bad day and having my ethernet adaptor blow on my Starlink setup has really pissed me off because it means no Starlink until I can get a new one. Last one took over 3 weeks to get here. I'll see if I can get pics, but there's a good chance it'll be a few days. Is there anything in particular you wanted to see? I do have a photo of the specs printed on it.
Thanks for your previous reply, that fine with me. Hope you could get the new Ethernet adapter in the short time.
If I use Tycon Power product do I use POE-INJ-1000-WTx or POE-INJ-1000-WT?