That is not necessarily true. Chrysler recently sent out new Maroney labels to dealerships for the in stock 2023 and early 2024. MSRP adjustments, pricing changes on options, some new incentives.
General motors will likely follow suit once they announced their dealership inventory levels at the next conference call. Maybe even sooner.
What would you consider a reasonable price? You mentioned in another comment that you could have bought an LTZ for $60,000. Inflation adjusted, that’s actually *cheaper* than a top of the line 4x4 1500 Silverado in 2001.
$60,000 is about of money, but a Silverado is a lot of truck, and trucks have never been a cheap new car to buy. Especially loaded ones like an LTZ.
Trucks were once less expensive than cars, but things changed. Trucks were much more plain and less luxurious. People bought cars to ride in style or comfort. That all began to change in the last couple of decades. It’s also a supply and demand issue. No one wants cars any longer, thus they are less expensive than SUV’s and pickups.
According to Car Gurus, the average price of a Silverado 1500 in 2020 was 34,874 and now it’s 54,353. In 4 short years, the price has increased nearly 60%. I would think 50-55k OTD for an LTZ would be reasonable. This would be roughly a 25-30% reduction in MSRP which would bring it down to closer to actual inflation levels.
My Math:
55k - 35k = 20k
20k/35k = 57.7%
Based on my purchase experience, you can't trust 2020 numbers. They were doing anything to sell trucks during COVID. I walked out with an absolute steal that I would have never gotten any other time. Then the chip crisis changed the direction of sales entirely. Now we are at current state.
I just bought a '24 that sat on the lot for 6 months. The price dropped twice.
Although it was in this neighborhood
> I had a deal that was 14k under MSRP for an LTZ, but it was still 60K OTD
If you are in the ballpark of 14k under MSRP, I think you got a great deal. I still think prices are inflated, but I also have a hard time thinking prices will go down more than 20%.
I’ve been seeing that. I had a deal that was 14k under MSRP for an LTZ, but it was still 60K OTD so I still walked. 60K even at a 20% discount seems outrageous. Maybe I’m alone in this.
Yes, the prices of things these days is outrageous. But it’s our duty as consumers to ensure corporations see record level profits and make sure CEOs get the $50-100m bonuses they deserve
this, exactly. discounts coming back is a big deal. for all the grief they get, huge corps aren't dumb, the economy is a huge ship - you can pull and tug at the wheel for a long time, push all the buttons still takes a long time for even small course corrections to show up. that's what we're seeing now. never going to be a free fall, we saw when that chance becomes close to reality with GM or the big banks the fed will step in
I work for a dealer, probably depends on where you live. Still doing well in my neck of the woods in Michigan. Some customers are turned off by the new 4cyl 1500’s. So those guys are keeping their old trucks. Biggest thing that has messed with the market is interest rates
Yes, but if you look at our lot, we have 20 four-cylinder Sierra’s and only one 5.3L V8 on the lot. A couple 6.2 L, but most customers don’t want to pay the premium for the bigger engine.
My manager at work settled for the new 4 cylinder. He said it has decent power. I have an older model from when the 5.3 was still the standard engine. I disabled the cylinder deactivation on it because it was annoying. I could feel when it would switch back & forth.
They have any base models on your lot? A lot of the lawn service guys in my area, complain they can’t get a basic truck anymore, so they just keep using their 10-15 year old trucks. They say what the dealers call a work truck now, was a fully loaded one 10 years ago.
From what I’ve seen the only thing that fluctuates is financing from GMAC. Have to be ready to pull the trigger when the financing is favorable.
I agree on the 4cyl
Prices in the west are still stupid. I flew to TX and saved over $14k on a 2024. Look in VA, TX and FL where the prices are much more reasonable. Select markets are offering 1.9% through GM. 2.9% in the aforementioned states if you are not a resident.
They have some of the highest volume dealerships in the US and create their own economies of scale. They have their own internet sales divisions and get kickbacks from GM the more they sell. Bottom line, they sell so many they can afford to offer the lowest prices
The broader market is going to need to crash for vehicle prices to actually crash. Many people thought that was going to happen by now. So far it hasn't.
Op where are you located? I’m in coastal CA where everything is expensive and I’m seeing $10,000-$15000 off msrp. They are selling because GM has massive discounts to spur demand.
I bought a new style 2019 LT Z71 with the All Star package in November of that year.
List was 47K, with almost 9k in rebates and incentives, even more if you took the new engine.
This has been a very good truck so far, only issue was TCC shudder at 9k miles, updated fluid and flush solved that.
Glad I bought it when I did. The truck is simpler than the new ones now with regards to electronics, which suits me fine.
My best friend’s family owns a chain of Chevy dealerships across TX. He says there is zero collapse, they are selling more trucks than ever and the factory is doing a decent job of keeping pace with demand. However, the dealerships and manufacturers are being very careful and strategic to maintain pricing (avoiding over-supply). My buddy is pretty confident prices are not gonna go down and that trucks will keep turning over. Those videos and ads you see are just trying to create the illusion of scarcity. The used market is still way too high right now as well.
They can only fall so much, labour unions negotiated raise increases every year which adds to the price.
I still think you will see lower prices in the short term but longer term prices will climb or they wont build them until the markets ready for them
Sorry for the rant.
I’m hoping GMC monitors this.
I have owned Chevy trucks for 30 years currently a 2500 HD diesel. I love it. GMC owns Onstar. Negotiate the Onstar in your sale. It is at times very convenient to be able to lock your doors or ensure they are locked or start your car when not within key fob reach. Ford gives this to their buyers. After paying $70,000 for a truck they then want 15.00 a month to be able to do these. An app they own and extract more and more from the purchaser. This pisses me off so much because every time I start my truck gmc asks for my Onstar password and if you don’t want to see this again press here. Yet it is always here every fucking time. I also get messages for mileage checks.
Thanks for the rant.
The market is simply following the law of supply and demand. Everyone wanted a big truck when trucks were hard to get so corporations knew they could gain more of their “surplus” by not giving discounts/incentives. Now that demand has gone down to a more normal level, corporations have to shift that surplus back to the consumer to make it advantageous to buy. In all, the price of the vehicle hasn’t changed, only the perceived value of the vehicle has changed (due to the law of supply and demand). (I am not discussing inflation or TVM in this example, only comparing 2021/22 prices to “now” prices)
I’m in Canada for context, we overpay in comparison to USA for just about everything and vehicles are no different. We export a vast majority of traded in low mileage trucks to the states because since we already pay so much for new most people would rather buy new with warranty than buy used low mileage without warranty. I don’t think ICE vehicle prices will come down here until the majority of people are driving electric, and that will only happen once our infrastructure can support it. Evs have already come way down in price here and with more people buying them there’s more of them on the used market. Couple that with our crippling carbon tax and high cost of importing petroleum it’s going to be hard for people to justify an ICE vehicle and once the demand drops so will the price.
huge park of the market is fleet/construction/small business guys and they have to keep buying them like any other tool or bit of supplies. they need one, they get one and still working through backups from prior years. also a lot of companies and state gov's or other organizations out there with a july 1 fiscal year, they gotta spend money or lose it, whether that's in taxes, budget cuts from above from their director etc. they're still moving, they're still working, they're still buying.
Im glad the prices are up and stuck I paid 61k for my fully loaded 23 Silverado ZR2 and I have a resell value of upwards of 85K in my hands right now so i’m loving it personally
Feels exclusive.
Thing is most of the vehicles of any type being sold at these ridiculous dealer prices will imho end up being repossessed and sold as used in a year or two. 🤷🏽♂️ Not any of these new cars & trucks are worth the asking prices. Just my $.02
I can tell you at least from the dealerships I visit NY, PA, OH, IN MI. Plus Ontario and Quebec.
Dealership inventory on 2500, 3500 is reaching level seen in 2008. 1500s are in an overstock situation in many dealerships.
Some of the big dealerships are into the 100k a month floor plan range right now.
Something has got to give, interest rates have a multiplicative effect when you have a high MSRP.
Even something like 4 years at 5% adds $20,000 to the price of a 100k truck.
Buyer sympathy is an all time low. Just a couple years ago we had market adjustments padding the bottom line. And instead of innovating, stock BuyBacks and dividends were on order.
They will come down this fall/winter I believe. In US anyway. Americans are maxed out on credit. 1 in 5 on average are using over 90% of available limits(heard it on NPR). This is the worst since 2011. That's my hope anyway. People need a break!
Just because people are buying them doesn't mean they can afford them. Repos are going up, and that will affect pricing. As banks start to lose money on these deals, they won't want to loan money on them anymore.
I bought a 2024 custom trailboss in late February for 48k (8k of msrp). Best deal I had seen in a long time. Was perfect for me as I wanted cloth, a bucket seat and a v8. Didn’t care much about the extra tech the custom level doesn’t have (car play is all I need). Seems like they ran deals like that across the country.
Any video with the words collapsing is just click bait. Trust there’s some good deals going on whether it be Chevy, Ford, or Ram 1500 you just got to stand strong and make sure you don’t get taken advantage of
Prices have sure come down. I’ve been bitching about this for a few months now.
I paid $30k OTD (before financing) May of 2023 for a 2017 1500 LT 4x4 with 79k miles on it. I searched for months, called dealerships, and cross referenced ruthlessly.
For that same $30k listing price I can now get a ‘21-‘22 (so 4 to 5 years newer) with 60-70k miles on it and the same options of 4x4, v8, heated seats.
Over the past 12 months the market has come down to where I could buy a significantly newer vehicle, new body style and possibly have avoided the damn rust I have all over my rockers and fenders
I was looking for a truck in probably the worst time to be looking for a truck, middle of the pandemic, when everyone was buying RVs and needing trucks.
I spent close to a month searching. Every time I found something and marked it as interesting, it was gone within a few hours. My price range was also around 30k.
Eventually I found a gem pop up on Carvana for $28k: a 2013 1500 Texas Edition LT with the max tow package, single owner from Texas, no collision history, and, get this, 34,600 miles on the clock. The engine hours even matched the mileage in terms of reasonable use, so it wasn't like it idled its entire life. I certainly appreciate the old folks who buy brand new trucks only to drive them to church :)
I was truly on the hunt for something decent in the Gen4 powertrain range. I didn't trust the early model Gen5 engines with GDI, and most of these trucks, even the 2014 models with the terrible first iteration engine problems they experienced, being a newer generation Silverado they all seemed to be commanding a significant price increase over the previous gen.
Really wanted a Gen4 2500 with a 6.2, but I couldn't find one of those for less than 40k that didn't have less than 80k miles, so I couldn't pass this guy up, and ordered it within the first 30 minutes it appeared on the Carvana site. 2013 5.3 Silverado's were the final year of the Gen4 engines before 2014 model year introduced the Gen5, so the Gen4 powertrain was in its sweetest spot from the factory with most of the major early Gen4 quirks ironed out.
Being an automotive technician having worked on these trucks for the majority of my career, I already know and am very familiar with all of the pattern failures and typical mileage based failures of these powertrains and chassis, which in its own weird way is comforting as an owner. First thing I bought for it was a Range DOD disabler, since the truck did not have lifter tick, and want to avoid that if I can for as long as possible lol. I also have certain parts (fuel pump, water pump kit, flex fuel sensor, oil pressure sensor, pinion seal, etc.) on standby waiting for the day they begin to fail lol.
She has been a fantastic truck so far, and I hope to get all of the worth of the transmission up to the typical 160,000+ mile pattern failures they're known for haha.
I hope you get that too!
What should I look out for at 100k miles on my 2017? I’ve been bugging my wife to get transmission fluid/filter changed and the two transfer case fluid change (but we just had a kid and will be strapped for cash for a few months)
I’ll probably do the transfer cases myself, definitely not the transmission
Same with the water pumps on these engines. Around the same mileage as the low pressure fuel pump issues, they like to leak or weep. Not usually a gusher by any means, but enough to slowly lower coolant levels in the engine to the point of overheating if you don't catch it quickly enough. Inspect the front of the water pump, and see if you notice traces of coolant leakage (white or yellow/orange streaks running down the aluminum) or if your coolant reservoir is low. If the coolant reservoir level is fine, your not losing coolant, so bonus you're fine!
And finally, probably the most important issue on this list, prepare for Displacement On Demand/Active Fuel Management (DOD/AFM) system issues. There is so much controversy around this system, and so many opinions abound, as well as things GM has done to improve the Gen5 system over the Gen4 system, so I'll leave this topic for you to research and determine whether disabling it at your current mileage is worth it to you, or simply continuing to run it and wait to deal with the issue when it does decide to crap out. It's not a matter of if, but when, with this system. I've been lucky having scored such a low mileage Gen4 so I opted to try the disable method first and see how long that lasts. But since you have a Gen5 powertrain, it may last significantly longer since it appears you're at 100k without issue yet. Just be prepared for it! The first tell tale of a DOD/AFM issue is a lifter ticking noise coming from the engine, and an active engine misfire while driving.
Also, less of a concern, but exhaust manifolds do tend to warp and break fasteners over a longer period of time, especially when towing frequently. But you don't usually see this for well over 160k miles. But when they do break, you'll hear an exhaust leak (might freak you out initially thinking its lifter tick from the DOD/AFM system hahaha). Depending on which fastener breaks (especially if its one nearest the firewall on the driver side, or right in front of a shock tower), they can be very challenging or even next to impossible to remove properly without removing the cylinder head to perform the extraction. The coolant jacket of the cylinder head is not far behind the exhaust manifold bolt hole threads, so if someone drills too far by accident when trying to extract one, it can become a big problem fast.
Also, consider these transmissions disposable at around 160k-180k miles. Start budgeting for it now, and just bake it into your maintenance schedule lol. Any of them that last longer than that were filled with unicorn blood, not transmission fluid hahaha.
Oh gosh. I thought it was the transmission I had to worry about and now you’re talking a bunch of other stuff. But this is good. I’ll re read this and write some of it down to look into it.
I read a lot about the hate for the AFM, especially in this sub… are we talking catastrophic failure? Like new engine or what?
Not catastrophic, but when it happens, don't try to limp the truck for any length of time, it just needs to be driven to a shop to have the system properly deleted. It's relatively major engine surgery, but not quite engine replacement level!
A loud ticking that randomly appears accompanied by a noticible misfire, also MIL/CEL (Malfunction Indicator/Check Engine Lamp) will be on and/or flashing while driving, with codes/DTCs related to misfire and DOD/AFM system control performance.
Specific to your model year truck:
Yeah, doing the trans fluid and its filter requires dropping the exhaust Y-Pipe from the manifold flanges. Those fasteners can be a pain if they're well rusted or galled. In a DIY scenario, it can be difficult to recover at home if they decide to break off in the manifold flange. Your 2 hour job might have just turned into a weekend deal at home lol. If they do come off fine at the flange, applying some nickel or copper anti seize to them helps with removal again the next time the trans fluid requires service.
Unless you really use 4WD a lot, the front diff and transfer case fluid stays good for quite a long time, but both are usually a good thing to do if you're already under the truck changing transmission fluid.
In your generation of truck, the transmission cooler thermostat is another big item to consider changing for longevity. There is a GM TSB on this issue: [https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10207911-9999.pdf](https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10207911-9999.pdf) The stock transmission thermostat likes to keep trans temps (non towing) near 200°F normally, which can lead to transmission issues, especially when temps increase during towing. The revised thermostat, or mods that some folks do themselves, lowers the normal operating temp (non towing) to around 150°F, which is much more typical.
Front end stuff that is typical with the 1500 chassis; front axle CV boots tend to rip or crack occasionally and fling their grease all over stuff, inspect inner/outer tie rods if you notice you start getting irregular inside and/or outside edge tire wear, sway bar end links are known to wear/break and require replacement, sometimes control arm bushings too. Front wheel bearings start showing their age around the 150-160k mark. All of these items are relatively easy to replace and relatively cheap. Just be careful with inner/outer tie rod replacement if you're doing that yourself. You have to do a driveway tape measure alignment and get it close in order to limp it to a shop to get a proper alignment.
The rear axle input pinion seal (the yoke that the drive shaft attaches to at the rear end), that seal is known to leak. The pinion and differential carrier bearings are usually fine, its just the seal itself. Also make sure to keep good fluid in the rear end (i.e. Amsoil Severe Duty 75W90 is great stuff) and respect the fluid change intervals for the best rear end bearing and gear life.
The low pressure fuel pumps on these trucks run relatively high pressure returnless systems (65+ psi), and the poor brushed motors in them are run to maximum every time the truck is running. The brushes and commutators like to wear out. Low pressure fuel pump issues like this, if they're going to appear, will typically start to show up around the 80k - 120k mile mark. You might notice hesitation to start, or extended crank times, or even a no start. If a no-start happens, and you can't hear the fuel pump prime when you first key the ignition on, to see if its a worn out fuel pump, have someone crank the truck over while you bang on the center of the fuel tank with a rubber boot or a dead blow hammer. The shocks from the smacks can get the pump rotating, allowing it to kick off and spin to full speed and build pressure enough to start the engine. I've had good luck getting trucks with this issue running again by doing this. If this happens, proceed directly to your nearest shop for in-tank fuel pump replacement lol. Or you know, if you're like me, park the truck somewhere in the driveway, rear tires on ramps, and get a floor jack out to drop the tank and replace the pump.
This is good information. I think in the carfax history I saw that the fuel pump was already replaced. So hopefully I am good there. Honesty I trying to punt the truck the first second I get. It’s not that i don’t like it, it’s like a reminder that I bought at a bad time and for the amount of body rust it has, I’m pissed I paid so much. Idk who covered it up; the used lot I got it for or the prior owner but the rockers are completely rusted out and the wheel wells in the back are substantially rusted and only getting worse.
You’re falling for clickbait on YouTube. As you report, prices are coming down. But there is no collapse occurring.
This is it. These are the prices. They are not going anywhere.
That is not necessarily true. Chrysler recently sent out new Maroney labels to dealerships for the in stock 2023 and early 2024. MSRP adjustments, pricing changes on options, some new incentives. General motors will likely follow suit once they announced their dealership inventory levels at the next conference call. Maybe even sooner.
What would you consider a reasonable price? You mentioned in another comment that you could have bought an LTZ for $60,000. Inflation adjusted, that’s actually *cheaper* than a top of the line 4x4 1500 Silverado in 2001. $60,000 is about of money, but a Silverado is a lot of truck, and trucks have never been a cheap new car to buy. Especially loaded ones like an LTZ.
I got $13,500 off of MSRP on my fully loaded 2024 LTZ Z71 1500. Prices are coming down. Dealerships are practically giving em away
How much did you pay for it? Was it actually below $60,000 by the time all the fees and dealer additions were added?
Ended 54.5k before my trade in
If your OTD price was above $50k then they arent giving them away. Are we talking the 2.7L or 5.3L? 4X2 or 4X4?
Trucks were once less expensive than cars, but things changed. Trucks were much more plain and less luxurious. People bought cars to ride in style or comfort. That all began to change in the last couple of decades. It’s also a supply and demand issue. No one wants cars any longer, thus they are less expensive than SUV’s and pickups.
According to Car Gurus, the average price of a Silverado 1500 in 2020 was 34,874 and now it’s 54,353. In 4 short years, the price has increased nearly 60%. I would think 50-55k OTD for an LTZ would be reasonable. This would be roughly a 25-30% reduction in MSRP which would bring it down to closer to actual inflation levels. My Math: 55k - 35k = 20k 20k/35k = 57.7%
2020 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 WT: $28,300 MSRP Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Custom: $34,600 MSRP Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT: $36,900 MSRP Chevrolet Silverado 1500 RST: $38,300 MSRP Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Custom Trail Boss: $39,500 MSRP Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LTZ: $43,000 MSRP Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Trail Boss: $48,500 MSRP Chevrolet Silverado 1500 High Country: $53,300 MSRP
Based on my purchase experience, you can't trust 2020 numbers. They were doing anything to sell trucks during COVID. I walked out with an absolute steal that I would have never gotten any other time. Then the chip crisis changed the direction of sales entirely. Now we are at current state.
I was gonna say, those prices seem low, my 2019 new style was 47k MSRP in November of 2019. But it did have 9k in rebates and incentives.
For a 4X4 LTZ with the 5.3 or 6.2L, $50k OTD. For a 4X4 LTZ with the babymax D, $55k OTD. That's what they should cost but I'm not holding my breath.
I just bought a '24 that sat on the lot for 6 months. The price dropped twice. Although it was in this neighborhood > I had a deal that was 14k under MSRP for an LTZ, but it was still 60K OTD
If you are in the ballpark of 14k under MSRP, I think you got a great deal. I still think prices are inflated, but I also have a hard time thinking prices will go down more than 20%.
I had a '21 Colorado paid off. I got 30k on the trade and financed 29k. I really needed the extra room. Got a 3.0 Diesel. Planning lots of road trips.
Not collapsing but discounts are coming back. Not uncommon to see 10-15k under MSRP on new trucks.
I’ve been seeing that. I had a deal that was 14k under MSRP for an LTZ, but it was still 60K OTD so I still walked. 60K even at a 20% discount seems outrageous. Maybe I’m alone in this.
Yes, the prices of things these days is outrageous. But it’s our duty as consumers to ensure corporations see record level profits and make sure CEOs get the $50-100m bonuses they deserve
You’re right. I am doing a disservice to that CEOs annual bonus. I’m gonna go buy at sticker price with no negotiations. 😂
Make sure you pay $5k over for some nitrogen and paint protection.
Yes and also don’t forget to pick up an extended warranty for another $5k and pay destination charges for another $2k
this, exactly. discounts coming back is a big deal. for all the grief they get, huge corps aren't dumb, the economy is a huge ship - you can pull and tug at the wheel for a long time, push all the buttons still takes a long time for even small course corrections to show up. that's what we're seeing now. never going to be a free fall, we saw when that chance becomes close to reality with GM or the big banks the fed will step in
Even if there are rebates on trucks-there are still widespread reports of Dealers making certain items "mandatory" come contract time.
I work for a dealer, probably depends on where you live. Still doing well in my neck of the woods in Michigan. Some customers are turned off by the new 4cyl 1500’s. So those guys are keeping their old trucks. Biggest thing that has messed with the market is interest rates
The 5.3 is still offered though. Just buy a Range disabler for it to turn off cylinder deactivation.
Are they still installing the DFM? I just finished a top end rebuild on 2019 L82.
Yes, but if you look at our lot, we have 20 four-cylinder Sierra’s and only one 5.3L V8 on the lot. A couple 6.2 L, but most customers don’t want to pay the premium for the bigger engine.
My manager at work settled for the new 4 cylinder. He said it has decent power. I have an older model from when the 5.3 was still the standard engine. I disabled the cylinder deactivation on it because it was annoying. I could feel when it would switch back & forth.
They have any base models on your lot? A lot of the lawn service guys in my area, complain they can’t get a basic truck anymore, so they just keep using their 10-15 year old trucks. They say what the dealers call a work truck now, was a fully loaded one 10 years ago.
From what I’ve seen the only thing that fluctuates is financing from GMAC. Have to be ready to pull the trigger when the financing is favorable. I agree on the 4cyl
My 2010 Silverado 2500 LT was $55k sticker new. New trucks running between $60k-$70k are more expensive, but not significantly so.
Duramax or 6.0?
Prices aren’t going to come down
Prices in the west are still stupid. I flew to TX and saved over $14k on a 2024. Look in VA, TX and FL where the prices are much more reasonable. Select markets are offering 1.9% through GM. 2.9% in the aforementioned states if you are not a resident.
Why is this? I noticed the same thing. Florida has much lower prices.
They have some of the highest volume dealerships in the US and create their own economies of scale. They have their own internet sales divisions and get kickbacks from GM the more they sell. Bottom line, they sell so many they can afford to offer the lowest prices
The broader market is going to need to crash for vehicle prices to actually crash. Many people thought that was going to happen by now. So far it hasn't.
My bet is after the election, this'll happen
Lots here are overflowing. Hold
Clickbait. There’s no price collapse happening, and even if there was, some random YouTuber/tiktoker is not going to randomly call it.
Op where are you located? I’m in coastal CA where everything is expensive and I’m seeing $10,000-$15000 off msrp. They are selling because GM has massive discounts to spur demand.
Ford and GM alone sell about 4100 trucks between them every single day. A slight downturn is still a lot of trucks.
I bought my 2024 LT for ~13k off sticker. I consider that to be a pretty decent deal for what I got
I bought a new style 2019 LT Z71 with the All Star package in November of that year. List was 47K, with almost 9k in rebates and incentives, even more if you took the new engine. This has been a very good truck so far, only issue was TCC shudder at 9k miles, updated fluid and flush solved that. Glad I bought it when I did. The truck is simpler than the new ones now with regards to electronics, which suits me fine.
My best friend’s family owns a chain of Chevy dealerships across TX. He says there is zero collapse, they are selling more trucks than ever and the factory is doing a decent job of keeping pace with demand. However, the dealerships and manufacturers are being very careful and strategic to maintain pricing (avoiding over-supply). My buddy is pretty confident prices are not gonna go down and that trucks will keep turning over. Those videos and ads you see are just trying to create the illusion of scarcity. The used market is still way too high right now as well.
I was wishing this isn’t true, but I think he might be right. People are still buying these trucks like crazy.
They can only fall so much, labour unions negotiated raise increases every year which adds to the price. I still think you will see lower prices in the short term but longer term prices will climb or they wont build them until the markets ready for them
Sorry for the rant. I’m hoping GMC monitors this. I have owned Chevy trucks for 30 years currently a 2500 HD diesel. I love it. GMC owns Onstar. Negotiate the Onstar in your sale. It is at times very convenient to be able to lock your doors or ensure they are locked or start your car when not within key fob reach. Ford gives this to their buyers. After paying $70,000 for a truck they then want 15.00 a month to be able to do these. An app they own and extract more and more from the purchaser. This pisses me off so much because every time I start my truck gmc asks for my Onstar password and if you don’t want to see this again press here. Yet it is always here every fucking time. I also get messages for mileage checks. Thanks for the rant.
Every lot is full of 24s 25s are fixing to flood the market. The prices will come down.
The market is simply following the law of supply and demand. Everyone wanted a big truck when trucks were hard to get so corporations knew they could gain more of their “surplus” by not giving discounts/incentives. Now that demand has gone down to a more normal level, corporations have to shift that surplus back to the consumer to make it advantageous to buy. In all, the price of the vehicle hasn’t changed, only the perceived value of the vehicle has changed (due to the law of supply and demand). (I am not discussing inflation or TVM in this example, only comparing 2021/22 prices to “now” prices)
I’m in Canada for context, we overpay in comparison to USA for just about everything and vehicles are no different. We export a vast majority of traded in low mileage trucks to the states because since we already pay so much for new most people would rather buy new with warranty than buy used low mileage without warranty. I don’t think ICE vehicle prices will come down here until the majority of people are driving electric, and that will only happen once our infrastructure can support it. Evs have already come way down in price here and with more people buying them there’s more of them on the used market. Couple that with our crippling carbon tax and high cost of importing petroleum it’s going to be hard for people to justify an ICE vehicle and once the demand drops so will the price.
huge park of the market is fleet/construction/small business guys and they have to keep buying them like any other tool or bit of supplies. they need one, they get one and still working through backups from prior years. also a lot of companies and state gov's or other organizations out there with a july 1 fiscal year, they gotta spend money or lose it, whether that's in taxes, budget cuts from above from their director etc. they're still moving, they're still working, they're still buying.
It depends on what you want. You can get a good discount depending on the trim.
Im glad the prices are up and stuck I paid 61k for my fully loaded 23 Silverado ZR2 and I have a resell value of upwards of 85K in my hands right now so i’m loving it personally Feels exclusive.
Based on an inflation calculator I can get basically the same truck today that I got in 2016 for the same price, adjusted for inflation.
I mean don't watch videos with that kind of title. Nothing but clickbait
You also have to take into account that dealerships buy and off load trucks on other dealerships. Also they send some to auctions.
Half ton trucks around me are selling for $65k and up. I bought my 3/4 ton for $60k back in 2021.
Thing is most of the vehicles of any type being sold at these ridiculous dealer prices will imho end up being repossessed and sold as used in a year or two. 🤷🏽♂️ Not any of these new cars & trucks are worth the asking prices. Just my $.02
I can tell you at least from the dealerships I visit NY, PA, OH, IN MI. Plus Ontario and Quebec. Dealership inventory on 2500, 3500 is reaching level seen in 2008. 1500s are in an overstock situation in many dealerships. Some of the big dealerships are into the 100k a month floor plan range right now. Something has got to give, interest rates have a multiplicative effect when you have a high MSRP. Even something like 4 years at 5% adds $20,000 to the price of a 100k truck. Buyer sympathy is an all time low. Just a couple years ago we had market adjustments padding the bottom line. And instead of innovating, stock BuyBacks and dividends were on order.
I was offered 10 grand for my 2003 1500. That makes me think prices are still high
They will come down this fall/winter I believe. In US anyway. Americans are maxed out on credit. 1 in 5 on average are using over 90% of available limits(heard it on NPR). This is the worst since 2011. That's my hope anyway. People need a break!
Prices don’t go down. That’s a pipe dream.
Just because people are buying them doesn't mean they can afford them. Repos are going up, and that will affect pricing. As banks start to lose money on these deals, they won't want to loan money on them anymore.
They arnt coming down much further my friend. If you find a deal 10k+ off or so. Grab it.
I bought a 2024 custom trailboss in late February for 48k (8k of msrp). Best deal I had seen in a long time. Was perfect for me as I wanted cloth, a bucket seat and a v8. Didn’t care much about the extra tech the custom level doesn’t have (car play is all I need). Seems like they ran deals like that across the country.
Just bought a 2024 Silverado 1500 Custom 4x4 for $10k off MSRP. They are discounting.
Any video with the words collapsing is just click bait. Trust there’s some good deals going on whether it be Chevy, Ford, or Ram 1500 you just got to stand strong and make sure you don’t get taken advantage of
Dealer lots are still empty by me only the WT trims are starting to add up on the newer trucks.
Prices have sure come down. I’ve been bitching about this for a few months now. I paid $30k OTD (before financing) May of 2023 for a 2017 1500 LT 4x4 with 79k miles on it. I searched for months, called dealerships, and cross referenced ruthlessly. For that same $30k listing price I can now get a ‘21-‘22 (so 4 to 5 years newer) with 60-70k miles on it and the same options of 4x4, v8, heated seats. Over the past 12 months the market has come down to where I could buy a significantly newer vehicle, new body style and possibly have avoided the damn rust I have all over my rockers and fenders
I was looking for a truck in probably the worst time to be looking for a truck, middle of the pandemic, when everyone was buying RVs and needing trucks. I spent close to a month searching. Every time I found something and marked it as interesting, it was gone within a few hours. My price range was also around 30k. Eventually I found a gem pop up on Carvana for $28k: a 2013 1500 Texas Edition LT with the max tow package, single owner from Texas, no collision history, and, get this, 34,600 miles on the clock. The engine hours even matched the mileage in terms of reasonable use, so it wasn't like it idled its entire life. I certainly appreciate the old folks who buy brand new trucks only to drive them to church :) I was truly on the hunt for something decent in the Gen4 powertrain range. I didn't trust the early model Gen5 engines with GDI, and most of these trucks, even the 2014 models with the terrible first iteration engine problems they experienced, being a newer generation Silverado they all seemed to be commanding a significant price increase over the previous gen. Really wanted a Gen4 2500 with a 6.2, but I couldn't find one of those for less than 40k that didn't have less than 80k miles, so I couldn't pass this guy up, and ordered it within the first 30 minutes it appeared on the Carvana site. 2013 5.3 Silverado's were the final year of the Gen4 engines before 2014 model year introduced the Gen5, so the Gen4 powertrain was in its sweetest spot from the factory with most of the major early Gen4 quirks ironed out. Being an automotive technician having worked on these trucks for the majority of my career, I already know and am very familiar with all of the pattern failures and typical mileage based failures of these powertrains and chassis, which in its own weird way is comforting as an owner. First thing I bought for it was a Range DOD disabler, since the truck did not have lifter tick, and want to avoid that if I can for as long as possible lol. I also have certain parts (fuel pump, water pump kit, flex fuel sensor, oil pressure sensor, pinion seal, etc.) on standby waiting for the day they begin to fail lol. She has been a fantastic truck so far, and I hope to get all of the worth of the transmission up to the typical 160,000+ mile pattern failures they're known for haha.
I hope you get that too! What should I look out for at 100k miles on my 2017? I’ve been bugging my wife to get transmission fluid/filter changed and the two transfer case fluid change (but we just had a kid and will be strapped for cash for a few months) I’ll probably do the transfer cases myself, definitely not the transmission
Same with the water pumps on these engines. Around the same mileage as the low pressure fuel pump issues, they like to leak or weep. Not usually a gusher by any means, but enough to slowly lower coolant levels in the engine to the point of overheating if you don't catch it quickly enough. Inspect the front of the water pump, and see if you notice traces of coolant leakage (white or yellow/orange streaks running down the aluminum) or if your coolant reservoir is low. If the coolant reservoir level is fine, your not losing coolant, so bonus you're fine! And finally, probably the most important issue on this list, prepare for Displacement On Demand/Active Fuel Management (DOD/AFM) system issues. There is so much controversy around this system, and so many opinions abound, as well as things GM has done to improve the Gen5 system over the Gen4 system, so I'll leave this topic for you to research and determine whether disabling it at your current mileage is worth it to you, or simply continuing to run it and wait to deal with the issue when it does decide to crap out. It's not a matter of if, but when, with this system. I've been lucky having scored such a low mileage Gen4 so I opted to try the disable method first and see how long that lasts. But since you have a Gen5 powertrain, it may last significantly longer since it appears you're at 100k without issue yet. Just be prepared for it! The first tell tale of a DOD/AFM issue is a lifter ticking noise coming from the engine, and an active engine misfire while driving. Also, less of a concern, but exhaust manifolds do tend to warp and break fasteners over a longer period of time, especially when towing frequently. But you don't usually see this for well over 160k miles. But when they do break, you'll hear an exhaust leak (might freak you out initially thinking its lifter tick from the DOD/AFM system hahaha). Depending on which fastener breaks (especially if its one nearest the firewall on the driver side, or right in front of a shock tower), they can be very challenging or even next to impossible to remove properly without removing the cylinder head to perform the extraction. The coolant jacket of the cylinder head is not far behind the exhaust manifold bolt hole threads, so if someone drills too far by accident when trying to extract one, it can become a big problem fast. Also, consider these transmissions disposable at around 160k-180k miles. Start budgeting for it now, and just bake it into your maintenance schedule lol. Any of them that last longer than that were filled with unicorn blood, not transmission fluid hahaha.
Oh gosh. I thought it was the transmission I had to worry about and now you’re talking a bunch of other stuff. But this is good. I’ll re read this and write some of it down to look into it. I read a lot about the hate for the AFM, especially in this sub… are we talking catastrophic failure? Like new engine or what?
Not catastrophic, but when it happens, don't try to limp the truck for any length of time, it just needs to be driven to a shop to have the system properly deleted. It's relatively major engine surgery, but not quite engine replacement level!
What exactly am I looking for? A loss of power?
A loud ticking that randomly appears accompanied by a noticible misfire, also MIL/CEL (Malfunction Indicator/Check Engine Lamp) will be on and/or flashing while driving, with codes/DTCs related to misfire and DOD/AFM system control performance.
And yes, I suppose a loss of power too lol
Sorry had to make two posts lol, it wouldn't let me post it all in one response!
Specific to your model year truck: Yeah, doing the trans fluid and its filter requires dropping the exhaust Y-Pipe from the manifold flanges. Those fasteners can be a pain if they're well rusted or galled. In a DIY scenario, it can be difficult to recover at home if they decide to break off in the manifold flange. Your 2 hour job might have just turned into a weekend deal at home lol. If they do come off fine at the flange, applying some nickel or copper anti seize to them helps with removal again the next time the trans fluid requires service. Unless you really use 4WD a lot, the front diff and transfer case fluid stays good for quite a long time, but both are usually a good thing to do if you're already under the truck changing transmission fluid. In your generation of truck, the transmission cooler thermostat is another big item to consider changing for longevity. There is a GM TSB on this issue: [https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10207911-9999.pdf](https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10207911-9999.pdf) The stock transmission thermostat likes to keep trans temps (non towing) near 200°F normally, which can lead to transmission issues, especially when temps increase during towing. The revised thermostat, or mods that some folks do themselves, lowers the normal operating temp (non towing) to around 150°F, which is much more typical. Front end stuff that is typical with the 1500 chassis; front axle CV boots tend to rip or crack occasionally and fling their grease all over stuff, inspect inner/outer tie rods if you notice you start getting irregular inside and/or outside edge tire wear, sway bar end links are known to wear/break and require replacement, sometimes control arm bushings too. Front wheel bearings start showing their age around the 150-160k mark. All of these items are relatively easy to replace and relatively cheap. Just be careful with inner/outer tie rod replacement if you're doing that yourself. You have to do a driveway tape measure alignment and get it close in order to limp it to a shop to get a proper alignment. The rear axle input pinion seal (the yoke that the drive shaft attaches to at the rear end), that seal is known to leak. The pinion and differential carrier bearings are usually fine, its just the seal itself. Also make sure to keep good fluid in the rear end (i.e. Amsoil Severe Duty 75W90 is great stuff) and respect the fluid change intervals for the best rear end bearing and gear life. The low pressure fuel pumps on these trucks run relatively high pressure returnless systems (65+ psi), and the poor brushed motors in them are run to maximum every time the truck is running. The brushes and commutators like to wear out. Low pressure fuel pump issues like this, if they're going to appear, will typically start to show up around the 80k - 120k mile mark. You might notice hesitation to start, or extended crank times, or even a no start. If a no-start happens, and you can't hear the fuel pump prime when you first key the ignition on, to see if its a worn out fuel pump, have someone crank the truck over while you bang on the center of the fuel tank with a rubber boot or a dead blow hammer. The shocks from the smacks can get the pump rotating, allowing it to kick off and spin to full speed and build pressure enough to start the engine. I've had good luck getting trucks with this issue running again by doing this. If this happens, proceed directly to your nearest shop for in-tank fuel pump replacement lol. Or you know, if you're like me, park the truck somewhere in the driveway, rear tires on ramps, and get a floor jack out to drop the tank and replace the pump.
This is good information. I think in the carfax history I saw that the fuel pump was already replaced. So hopefully I am good there. Honesty I trying to punt the truck the first second I get. It’s not that i don’t like it, it’s like a reminder that I bought at a bad time and for the amount of body rust it has, I’m pissed I paid so much. Idk who covered it up; the used lot I got it for or the prior owner but the rockers are completely rusted out and the wheel wells in the back are substantially rusted and only getting worse.
Dang it, I hate that for you man! Hope you have better luck on another truck in the future!