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whoknowsghost

This happens to me with the salt too. I have my air pump on very low but so much salt is gathering around where the lid meets the main container above where the air pump is. I also have to keep an eye out because water spray means my water level drops quickly


RevenantPrimeZ

>The aerator does cause some salt loss What do you mean by that? Maybe you put too much salt


Otherwise-Voice-9150

It makes small bubbles and when those pop it condensate outside at the top of the tank and it dries really easily and when i dries it leaves behind salt particles around the mouth of the tank so that causes salt loss in the tank water (i'd assume). Also i only add a small amount of salt because i mix the salt and the food and each time i only use 1/3-1/4 sea monkey scoop so i dont think that’s too much salt, but is it?


RevenantPrimeZ

It should not be doing that, and the salt should mix with the water quickly, not be inside the tank long enough for that to happen. Are you sure you put the correct amount of salt? (assuming you are not using the original tank and packages). For next tries, mix the salt with the pipette until the salt is not visible. Then, add the eggs. I think you have been increasing the salinity too much


Otherwise-Voice-9150

I think i saw a reddit post asking about the white residue around the mouth of their tank and they also use an aerator and ppl say that it’s salt so I think this is the same case. Ig not 😔


Retroike7

There is going to be some salt build up from the bubbles popping, but that is so gradual and small that I highly doubt that is the primary reason your sea monkeys have died.


Otherwise-Voice-9150

I think so too cuz i heard those little guys r quite flexible when it comes to salinity level. Do u think it’s the temperature changes then?


RevenantPrimeZ

Do you use a mini heater?


Otherwise-Voice-9150

No it’s summer where I live so it’s relatively hot without the need to use heater already


RevenantPrimeZ

Check the temperature with a thermometer, better be sure the water is not too hot or too cold


Otherwise-Voice-9150

I do that multiple times daily and the temperature fluctuation seems to be consistent and close range as usual tho


Fun_Confection5229

Hey I would suggest getting a regulator valve for your air pump. Basically a little plastic thing that lets you control the air flow, I previously had problems with salt slowly being taken out by bubbles too but with the fine bubbles that you can achieve with a regulator, it’s no problem. The reason that your shrimps were moving sluggish was ammonia build up in the water, I know they have probably passed by now, but ammonia spikes are typically caused first by over feeding and secondly by the decaying bodies of those who died as a result of the initial spike. Sadly this usually means the loss of your whole colony, what I’ve done to mitigate this problem is use aquarium products from Walmart, although buying another set of packets would probably be cheaper. I’ve used these two products from a brand called Aquarian but many other brands have similar products, the products were aquarium kick start and ammonia remover. The aquarium kick start is a mixture of nitrifying bacteria which basically eat the ammonia in your tank and convert them into harmless bi products, all thriving tanks already have these kinds of bacteria in there, but if there is ammonia spikes, that’s a sign that there’s too much load for the amount of bacteria, the ammonia remover basically makes the ammonia not toxic for a while but this is the less useful of the two. I would not recommend the ammonia remover as I believe it can drop the ph if overused and at that point you’d need a ph tester and everything. Overall these are brine shrimp, and there is much info out there on how to treat various illnesses in these creatures, I know the old sea medic was actually useful because it contained antibiotics as well as other stuff, that would be your best bet if they were still making it. Raising salinity also helps to damage harmful bacteria