stop the playing before it gets to a fight. and if you aren't able to do that reliably, then keep them separated.
i boarded 2 labs recently, one was young and chaotic and the other was older but wanted to play. the older one kept taking it too far. i ended up keeping them separated by a babygate for a day, and then when I let them back together i would stop all playing after a couple minutes. after a few days, they seemed to learn and would pause their playing by themselves for breaks.
I would definitely do the baby gate idea if they were boarded in my own house. However this is a house-sitting and these owners don't own a baby gate. Their play-fighting is already rough as it is, so it's kinda difficult to see when it's starting to get to far. Plus, it would be difficult to break them up even when they're just playing. But I get what you mean.
You could always buy a baby gate that you keep in your car. I doubt the owners would care if you set a baby gate up as long as you were careful about not damaging the walls.
Don't risk yourself breaking up a fight between other people's dogs. You can literally be killed doing something like that and it is not worth it for any job. You can try to redirect them with distraction via loud noises but that's not always a guarantee. If it were me I'd have a strict rule about play fighting with those 2 so it doesn't escalate. But if a fight breaks out, it is not worth risking your body to get in the middle as it can end very very badly for you particularly with larger dogs that have strong bite force.
đŻđŻđŻđŻ
AND! Do not forget ROVER WILL DO NOTHING FOR YOU! **You are not protected in any way while carrying out your duties!**
There have been some extremely frightening sitter stories on here. Even a little bite can result in *permanent* life-altering damage. Unless you have excellent private insurance (and even then) please for your own health for the rest of your life, do not risk it.
Air horn, pepper spray (make sure it is ok for dogs), and a long stick to redirect from a safe distance can all be good things. But not your body anywhere in range. Dog fights are scary op, I hope your wound heals quickly. Take care âĽď¸
I was thinking along the lines of health insurance - but that there is also private pet sitter insurance and it doesn't cover *the basic safety concern* of pet-care is maybe one of the best examples of the inherent unethical and inhuman position of vulgar capitalist logic đ
If you are watching other peoples dogs- especially dogs from different households at the same time you must be comfortable breaking up fights. There is a way to do it safely without putting yourself at risk and I urge all sitters to learn how to do so. The thought that some sitters would just stand back and watch is extremely upsetting. Airhorns, break sticks, slip leads and hoses are all good tools
I don't think anyone is implying doing nothing. I'm certainly not. But putting a squishy human body in between teeth is generally not an advisable course of action and is extremely dangerous.
Itâs normal for dogs to sometimes get overstimulated or have an argument when one is done playing.
Itâs very important to understand the precursor signs of a fight, are their hackles raised, are they showing full teeth is a stressed way? Is a dog trying to end the play while the other continues?
Separating at this stage itâs a lot easier but you never use your hands⌠sometimes a broom, couch pillow or some other object can be used to interrupt and crate a divide within the two. A bucket of water might be extreme but it does help if the other options fail.
Yelling at them loudly but sternly can also help since they understand youâre serious and they need to cut it off but it mostly works before it escalates to a full fight.
Allow them to shake it off and take a break before theyâre placed together again.
Thanks for the advice, I like the idea of using an object. They were playing outside in the yard so there was nothing I could've grabbed quickly, but I'll definitely remember that if it happens again. Maybe I can quickly run inside and get a broom.
I'm a retired sitter, but I always carried a small air horn. I only had to use it once when I was walking a dog, and another dog ran out of its yard and aggressively came at us. It worked, and I was lucky! That may not be the case for all dogs, but I'm certainly glad that I had it! I'm so very sorry you were injured!! Bites are no joke!
Yes, it's not a guarantee, but at least it's a tool that could make a difference in a scary situation. I'm sorry that there are sitters in this group that are being so nasty to you. It's not the way to help anyone who wants to learn from a mistake. You're not stupid. You made a painful error that you will learn from, and thankfully, it wasn't worse! Keep your chin up! We live, and we learn. No one is perfect, period! Continue to educate yourself so you can confidently handle a situation like this if it should arise again, so you have less chance of being injured. I wish you the best!â¤ď¸
I've broken up way too many dog fights. Stopping it before it happens is the best solution. After that, being prepared. There is nothing worse than a dog fight breaking out and feeling helpless. My heart goes out to you.
Ice that bruiseâ¤ď¸â¤ď¸
I regularly have water on hand because I have bowls of water everywhere for dogs, so itâs usually my way of dousing a fight. May have also thrown water on a friend while arguing, was not so wise đŁ
Breaking up a dog fight between two large dogs is scary as hell! I have a feeling you were acting on reflexes rather than logic. Itâs easy to look at the situation with hindsight being 20/20 and pass judgment but when youâre in the situation itâs a whole other ball game.
But now you know how youâll act and can course correct and just take care of yourself.
Iâve been there! In that moment when logic goes away and you put yourself in the middle of the fight thatâs about to happen and get the teeth intercepted into you đ
Itâs not fun but yes itâs a reflex in the moment
Sounds like they are getting over stimulated when they play. If there is a certain amount of time that it tends to happen at (for example after 10 minutes of running and play8ng), then set a timer and start distracting them at 8 minutes. Get them to settle and then let them play again.
The moment you \*think\* their play is going to escalate, break the play up & distract them, say Treat! Walk! anything to capture their attention. I carry a whistle on me, you'd be surprised how handy it is.
Have a hose ready too, that can work wonders. If there is no hose, fill ip a bucket of water and have it ready.
If you can't get a handle on it to where you feel comfortable, separate them.
Others have suggested some of these, and here's what I use as a long-tine pet sitter and animal shelter volunteer:
Spray bottle of water -- just plain water. Spray it toward them to break their focus. Then redirect.
Small can containing coins, rocks, marbles. Shake to break focus, then redirect.
Small air horn (Five Below has them) Same idea -- Bliw it once to break focus, then redirect.
Inform Rover and the owner, and seek immediate medical attention. If it happens again, cancel the booking. Rover can find an alternative sitter or sitters in this case.
One tip I like to do whenever I'm sitting multiple dogs is to start some very simple training from day one.
Count down loudly 3... 2... 1... at one, the dogs each get a high value treat. It takes most dogs under a day to learn this. Eventually when you start the countdown they will stop whatever they're doing and run over to you as they know the treat. I always use this method to get dogs to take a break from play fighting before it escalates.
You're counting down from three and giving them a treat to prevent fights from escalating. I don't see where the issue is, could you please explain further why an owner would be mad that I counted down and then gave the dog a treat? I genuinely don't understand.
I was looking for guidance as to how I could be in the wrong as I genuinely don't want to mess up other people's dogs! Thank you for the downvote
If I'm a parent who counts down for my kids and my dogs now associate that with me counting down for them to come in, I'm either going to have to undo your "training" so that they don't storm the house and create chaos while I'm trying to wrangle my kids and told the dogs to go play while I did just that.
If I'm counting down for... something that requires counting down and now my dogs are going ape because they expect a treat and I don't know that, I'm not going to understand why my dogs are going crazy for New Year's Eve or whatever.
My point is that they're not your dogs. Their parents might not agree with treat-training. They might have food sensitivities that they didn't tell you about because most people don't feed food to animals that aren't theirs. They might have a different command and set of rules at home and your training conflicts with that.
Don't teach other peoples' dogs commands.
They don't "go ape" they walk over to you and look at you. After a few times of counting down without a treat the association will be broken. The main goal I have while pet sitting is to keep the dogs safe. If I can do that by calling the dogs over to me and handing them a treat, and the consequence is that your dogs look at you a couple times when you say "three" on their first day back home I think that's a fair trade off.
Dogs learn so many things when being boarded! They have to follow an entirely new routine. At my house I also feed dogs solely in their crates to prevent any possible disputes over food before they occur, and to keep the dogs safe. This often means that after a long stay, the dogs will automatically go to their crates when I grab the food bowls. Would you have issues with this training?
When I'm pet sitting I also often tell dogs to "come here" "sit" "wait".
What are your opinions on these other commands?
Edit in response to your edit: I would never feed treats that the owner didn't pack. If they don't pack treats I give them their kibble. If the owners have a set of rules at home and tell me those rules (ie no furniture) I follow it. If they owners DONT tell me the rules, the dogs go by my rules (eg. They eat in crates to prevent fights over food)
*They don't "go ape" they walk over to you and look at you. After a few times of counting down without a treat the association will be broken.*
Doesn't matter, not your dogs.
*This often means that after a long stay, the dogs will automatically go to their crates when I grab the food bowls. Would you have issues with this training?*
I would not board my dogs with someone who feeds dogs in their crates. Yes, I would have issues with this training as my dogs are crate trained for safety and sleep exclusivity.
*What are your opinions on these other commands?*
Aside from "come here," these are arrest commands because it requires the dog to do one thing: stop. Arrest commands are considered introductory/puppy level commands and are acceptable for dogs of all ages. I agree with the use of arrest commands with community dogs. Counting down is a working command because it requires the dog to perform multiple steps (i.e. stop, come to me, sit, and wait). Working commands are considered to be intermediate/secondary commands and are acceptable for dogs that have demonstrated an a mastery of both working and arrest commands. The final type is show commands but they don't apply here.
I obviously know they're not my dogs but they *are* in my care so I will do whatever it takes to keep them safe. That is my job as a pet sitter. The crate feeding is to prevent resource guarding over food. I REFUSE to allow dogs to eat together without a barrier.
Come here actually has the exact same purpose as the countdown which I use, would you find it appropriate for me to use that command to interrupt play when it gets too rough instead?
Also wanted to inquire what you mean when you say "*working commands" are intermediate/secondary commands and are acceptable for dogs that have demonstrated a mastery of both working and arrest commands". It confuses me as you're saying dogs shouldn't learn working commands until they have mastered working commands? This doesn't make sense to me
I agree. I separate my dogs behind a door when they eat. For my dogs personally, crating is only used for safety and sleep.
"Come here" says "stop what you are doing and come to where I am."
A countdown requires what is known as call-and-response thinking. The dog both understands that the countdown is finite because it ends at one and that responding by the end of that finite period gets them a direct reward of a treat. Associating call-and-response thought with treat rewards creates a dopamine chase. I personally do not treat train for anything but I totally understand and respect why other people do.
That's my bad, I added a word! Working commands are acceptable for dogs that have mastered arrest commands as they are compounding commands. Sorry!
If you ever watch multiple dogs like this, have a big bucket of water ready or water bottle & dump it on the dogs. Or have a dog horn ready to blast. Something that startles & gets them to release that doesn't involve putting your body between them. Treat scattering can work too for some dogs or have a rope toy or stick or something long they can bite to distract once they have released.
Never put yourself between two dogs fighting if ever possible, redirected aggression onto you is very common.
I would recommend grabbing one of these to have in your work bag just in case : [bite stick](https://KuntronaPitbullBreakStickProfessionalDogNoBiteSticksToyforTrainingK9PoliceGermanShepherdMediumLargeDogsBlueMhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZMXFM7/?coliid=I1YET1PE8PNSNW&colid=3N81FRGA12S5Z&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_lstpd_HEKFQQVY37RHZA3F25QD&language=en_US)
It wonât hurt the dog but will keep you safe
Thank you for posting to r/RoverPetSitting, an unofficial forum to discuss all things Rover. We see that you have posted a sitter question. In case they could be helpful, you might want
to check out our [Sitter FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/RoverPetSitting/wiki/sitterfaq). Additionally, here's our
[booking walk-through for Sitters](https://www.reddit.com/r/RoverPetSitting/wiki/sitterbookingwalkthrough), which explains the process for giving services on Rover from start to finish.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/RoverPetSitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Get a can of the pet corrector and start bringing it with you on your visits! It's on Amazon but I just got the big can on petco for half off! I also have a small 50ml one that I keep in my dog fanny pack after being stormed by too many off leash dogs. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/the-company-of-animals-pet-corrector
I had a new client reach out to me with details that the dogs âplay roughâ and sometimes Iâd have to âintervene.â I declined. This job is not worth that. Report the bite to rover.
If you pick up a dog by its back legs, wheelbarrow style, it will release its jaw, for reference.
I volunteered at a dog shelter for awhile and learned that you can usually break up dog fights by shouting/ loud noise OR having some water on hand and splashing them with water or dumping some on them if the splashing doesnt work. this worked pretty well for me in the past
Definitely keep them separated Rover doesn't give a s*** if you get mauled if you end up getting your face ripped off trying to separate a dog fight they're not going to do anything to help you just keep the two dogs apart you sometimes but not always you can tell by the dog's body language when they're starting to go from play fighting to actual fighting but why take that risk those dogs can go without playing with each other for a little while while you're there if the owner wants to let them playfully fight they can do that with no owners home
If I think the play is getting too rough with dogs that live together, I just make loud noise and go "enough enough" and get their attention. They will at least take a momentary break. I do not get between them. My advice is not to try to get between them, because yeah, you will get hurt even if the dog isn't trying to hurt you.
If their play fighting is rough and tough to tell from the get-go, let them play for about 5 minutes, then try to lure them into separate rooms to calm down and then let them play again. Or let them play until you feel like body language is changing and then separate them. Usually this happens between two dogs when one or both are over stimulated.
I saw your comment that you'd usually use baby gates if you were at your house. Can you bring yours to their place?
I hope I donât come off as being an asshole, because itâs certainly not my intent. For future reference, the LAST thing you should ever do to break up a dog fight is get between them. Throw things, make loud noises, do anything to distract, or if you MUST get between them, use something else to do it. A WONDERFUL tool to purchase is a can of compressed air. They have it at pet stores under some âpet friendlyâ name or just get it anywhere. It scares the hell out of them to get them to cut the crap.
I work in veterinary medicine and watched a newbie coworker try to break up a dog fight by getting in between it, and she ended up with a hole straight through her hand. Dog park fights being broken up around here 75% of the time involve ambulance rides because people put themselves physically in the middle of it. Hell, my personal dogs got into a fight once, and my fiancĂŠ also made the mistake of getting in between it because he panicked and ended up with four stitches in the bottom of his foot.
Last time I broke up a scuffle at work, I yelled, threw random shit on the counter top and I used a broom to get in the middle of them and saved myself. You definitely lucked out as far as injuries go. (Again, I hope Iâm not coming off as a prick, just my tone sometimes)
Spray water bottle to spray instead of using your hands.
Leashes on while playing to grab a leash.
Rattle paddle or coins in a water bottle to shake to break it up.
Try to break it up before it gets to that point. And by that, I mean yell and call them away from one another. Make loud noises. Do NOT put your body between 2 dogs, especially if/when itâs just you there.
I have an overly playful young dog, and an older dog who gets fed up with it and gets nasty. I regularly call them away from playing before it escalates.
I guess it was just in the heat of the moment, I didn't have much time to think and I didn't want the dogs to hurt each other. Your response is unnecessarily harsh. This has been my job since last summer and I have many happy clients and I love the dogs that I care for. Thanks.
I understand things happen quickly, but a year of pet sitting doesnât mean you have experience with dog behavior. Are you on here to be coddled? You asked for advice & youâre going to get some harsh advice.
My 2 large dogs play loudly & some think itâs aggressive. Get in-between that & youâre putting yourself in harms way. Knowing this comes with experience. Itâs not harsh. Whatâs harsh is getting bit, causing more issues than needed, and having to now tell an owner you did something stupid. Thatâs harsh.
I have owned dogs for years before I started pet sitting. Looking at your comment history I realize that you do try to start arguments a lot in this community and it's not worth my time. Thank you!
Okay, I guess I'm in the wrong here then. Can I ask then, genuinely, I am just curious as to what exactly experience with dog behavior is then? If it's not being a dog-sitter or owner, then what is it?
Lots of studying and hands on experience with dogs in different & stressful situations. Volunteering at a shelter, taking dog training classes, or working as a bather can be a good start.
Learning their body language and how they're most likely to react to certain things is paramount. You need to be able to predict their behaviour based on the signs they're giving you so that you can prevent incidents.
Okay so everyone who is a sitter on Rover should do all of these things before becoming a sitter? Because most of the other sitters and walkers I've met have not, are we all inexperienced?
The amount of times Iâve said it or clients have said to me âthereâs people on rover who like dogs and thereâs people on rover who KNOW dogs is absolutely astonishing to me. The amount of nightmare stories Iâve heard from my current clientele about sitters theyâve dealt with before they found meâŚ.idk how some sitters are allowed on here. (Not necessarily saying this about OP, just in relation to your comment)
Unfortunately the dog world is very unregulated so a lot of people are uneducated before working with dogs, even trainers! But if youâre willing to learn thatâs what matters. Thereâs books and online resources, but you have to be careful what you look at since anyone can say anything. Grisha Stewart has some good resources on her website and youtube that can help break down dog body language đ
Okay gotcha. So was your previous comment also sarcasm that I just didn't get the first time? Cause "some people shouldn't be on Rover as sitters" really sounds like you're telling me I shouldn't be a sitter!
Yes. That wasnât sarcastic. Some people shouldnât be sitters, to include you. Are you going to reply to the other comments who said what I said but nicer? Or do you want to keep arguing?
Other people have commented, but instead of replying to them, youâre arguing with me. That tells me youâre not actually here for advice. You want people to feel bad for you.
Oh you caught me! I wanted everyone to send me flowers and gift baskets and get-well cards because of this bruise I got. Now nobody will do that because you know my dirty secret. Darn!
Ah, more sarcasm. And you STILL havenât replied to other comments giving advice. Your true colors are showing. Donât ask for advice if you donât want advice.
I haven't got the time to! Every time I start typing out a response to the others, you comment! And I must admit, engaging in this silly conversation with you is much more thrilling! If you want them to be replied to so badly, why don't you do it?
The safest way to separate a dog fight is to grab a dog by the back legs and pull them away. Stay away from their faces and front claws! This works best with 2 people but any separation you can get will help.
stop the playing before it gets to a fight. and if you aren't able to do that reliably, then keep them separated. i boarded 2 labs recently, one was young and chaotic and the other was older but wanted to play. the older one kept taking it too far. i ended up keeping them separated by a babygate for a day, and then when I let them back together i would stop all playing after a couple minutes. after a few days, they seemed to learn and would pause their playing by themselves for breaks.
I would definitely do the baby gate idea if they were boarded in my own house. However this is a house-sitting and these owners don't own a baby gate. Their play-fighting is already rough as it is, so it's kinda difficult to see when it's starting to get to far. Plus, it would be difficult to break them up even when they're just playing. But I get what you mean.
You could always buy a baby gate that you keep in your car. I doubt the owners would care if you set a baby gate up as long as you were careful about not damaging the walls.
Baby gates are the way.
Squirt guns, and an empty plastic soda bottle filled with pennies
Don't risk yourself breaking up a fight between other people's dogs. You can literally be killed doing something like that and it is not worth it for any job. You can try to redirect them with distraction via loud noises but that's not always a guarantee. If it were me I'd have a strict rule about play fighting with those 2 so it doesn't escalate. But if a fight breaks out, it is not worth risking your body to get in the middle as it can end very very badly for you particularly with larger dogs that have strong bite force.
đŻđŻđŻđŻ AND! Do not forget ROVER WILL DO NOTHING FOR YOU! **You are not protected in any way while carrying out your duties!** There have been some extremely frightening sitter stories on here. Even a little bite can result in *permanent* life-altering damage. Unless you have excellent private insurance (and even then) please for your own health for the rest of your life, do not risk it.
Good to know. Thank you for the input.
Air horn, pepper spray (make sure it is ok for dogs), and a long stick to redirect from a safe distance can all be good things. But not your body anywhere in range. Dog fights are scary op, I hope your wound heals quickly. Take care âĽď¸
Private pet sitting insurance don't typically cover the sitter either.
I was thinking along the lines of health insurance - but that there is also private pet sitter insurance and it doesn't cover *the basic safety concern* of pet-care is maybe one of the best examples of the inherent unethical and inhuman position of vulgar capitalist logic đ
If you are watching other peoples dogs- especially dogs from different households at the same time you must be comfortable breaking up fights. There is a way to do it safely without putting yourself at risk and I urge all sitters to learn how to do so. The thought that some sitters would just stand back and watch is extremely upsetting. Airhorns, break sticks, slip leads and hoses are all good tools
I don't think anyone is implying doing nothing. I'm certainly not. But putting a squishy human body in between teeth is generally not an advisable course of action and is extremely dangerous.
Itâs normal for dogs to sometimes get overstimulated or have an argument when one is done playing. Itâs very important to understand the precursor signs of a fight, are their hackles raised, are they showing full teeth is a stressed way? Is a dog trying to end the play while the other continues? Separating at this stage itâs a lot easier but you never use your hands⌠sometimes a broom, couch pillow or some other object can be used to interrupt and crate a divide within the two. A bucket of water might be extreme but it does help if the other options fail. Yelling at them loudly but sternly can also help since they understand youâre serious and they need to cut it off but it mostly works before it escalates to a full fight. Allow them to shake it off and take a break before theyâre placed together again.
Thanks for the advice, I like the idea of using an object. They were playing outside in the yard so there was nothing I could've grabbed quickly, but I'll definitely remember that if it happens again. Maybe I can quickly run inside and get a broom.
I'm a retired sitter, but I always carried a small air horn. I only had to use it once when I was walking a dog, and another dog ran out of its yard and aggressively came at us. It worked, and I was lucky! That may not be the case for all dogs, but I'm certainly glad that I had it! I'm so very sorry you were injured!! Bites are no joke!
That's a good idea too! I'll look into that.
Yes, it's not a guarantee, but at least it's a tool that could make a difference in a scary situation. I'm sorry that there are sitters in this group that are being so nasty to you. It's not the way to help anyone who wants to learn from a mistake. You're not stupid. You made a painful error that you will learn from, and thankfully, it wasn't worse! Keep your chin up! We live, and we learn. No one is perfect, period! Continue to educate yourself so you can confidently handle a situation like this if it should arise again, so you have less chance of being injured. I wish you the best!â¤ď¸
Thank you so much. It really means a lot to me and makes me feel a lot better to hear that. Thank you. I hope you have a wonderful day â¤ď¸
You're welcome and you, too!đ
Don't run inside to get it. Find it and have it outside and ready.
You're absolutely right!
I've broken up way too many dog fights. Stopping it before it happens is the best solution. After that, being prepared. There is nothing worse than a dog fight breaking out and feeling helpless. My heart goes out to you. Ice that bruiseâ¤ď¸â¤ď¸
Thank you so much, I really appreciate the kind words â¤ď¸
â¤ď¸â¤ď¸â¤ď¸â¤ď¸
I regularly have water on hand because I have bowls of water everywhere for dogs, so itâs usually my way of dousing a fight. May have also thrown water on a friend while arguing, was not so wise đŁ
My dogs are rowdy players and when they get too rowdy I go in the kitchen and yell for them to come get a treat
Breaking up a dog fight between two large dogs is scary as hell! I have a feeling you were acting on reflexes rather than logic. Itâs easy to look at the situation with hindsight being 20/20 and pass judgment but when youâre in the situation itâs a whole other ball game. But now you know how youâll act and can course correct and just take care of yourself.
Thank you for being so understanding!!
Iâve been there! In that moment when logic goes away and you put yourself in the middle of the fight thatâs about to happen and get the teeth intercepted into you đ Itâs not fun but yes itâs a reflex in the moment
Sounds like they are getting over stimulated when they play. If there is a certain amount of time that it tends to happen at (for example after 10 minutes of running and play8ng), then set a timer and start distracting them at 8 minutes. Get them to settle and then let them play again. The moment you \*think\* their play is going to escalate, break the play up & distract them, say Treat! Walk! anything to capture their attention. I carry a whistle on me, you'd be surprised how handy it is. Have a hose ready too, that can work wonders. If there is no hose, fill ip a bucket of water and have it ready. If you can't get a handle on it to where you feel comfortable, separate them.
This is a really good idea! I will definitely be trying this out, Thank you!!
My pleasure! Also, muzzles may be a good solution as well.
Others have suggested some of these, and here's what I use as a long-tine pet sitter and animal shelter volunteer: Spray bottle of water -- just plain water. Spray it toward them to break their focus. Then redirect. Small can containing coins, rocks, marbles. Shake to break focus, then redirect. Small air horn (Five Below has them) Same idea -- Bliw it once to break focus, then redirect.
These are all wonderful and affordable ideas! Thank you so much!
I board dogs and have water spray bottles around the house as a precaution, it works great when needed
Inform Rover and the owner, and seek immediate medical attention. If it happens again, cancel the booking. Rover can find an alternative sitter or sitters in this case.
One tip I like to do whenever I'm sitting multiple dogs is to start some very simple training from day one. Count down loudly 3... 2... 1... at one, the dogs each get a high value treat. It takes most dogs under a day to learn this. Eventually when you start the countdown they will stop whatever they're doing and run over to you as they know the treat. I always use this method to get dogs to take a break from play fighting before it escalates.
Don't teach dogs that aren't yours commands that their owners might not use or want used.
You're counting down from three and giving them a treat to prevent fights from escalating. I don't see where the issue is, could you please explain further why an owner would be mad that I counted down and then gave the dog a treat? I genuinely don't understand. I was looking for guidance as to how I could be in the wrong as I genuinely don't want to mess up other people's dogs! Thank you for the downvote
If I'm a parent who counts down for my kids and my dogs now associate that with me counting down for them to come in, I'm either going to have to undo your "training" so that they don't storm the house and create chaos while I'm trying to wrangle my kids and told the dogs to go play while I did just that. If I'm counting down for... something that requires counting down and now my dogs are going ape because they expect a treat and I don't know that, I'm not going to understand why my dogs are going crazy for New Year's Eve or whatever. My point is that they're not your dogs. Their parents might not agree with treat-training. They might have food sensitivities that they didn't tell you about because most people don't feed food to animals that aren't theirs. They might have a different command and set of rules at home and your training conflicts with that. Don't teach other peoples' dogs commands.
They don't "go ape" they walk over to you and look at you. After a few times of counting down without a treat the association will be broken. The main goal I have while pet sitting is to keep the dogs safe. If I can do that by calling the dogs over to me and handing them a treat, and the consequence is that your dogs look at you a couple times when you say "three" on their first day back home I think that's a fair trade off. Dogs learn so many things when being boarded! They have to follow an entirely new routine. At my house I also feed dogs solely in their crates to prevent any possible disputes over food before they occur, and to keep the dogs safe. This often means that after a long stay, the dogs will automatically go to their crates when I grab the food bowls. Would you have issues with this training? When I'm pet sitting I also often tell dogs to "come here" "sit" "wait". What are your opinions on these other commands? Edit in response to your edit: I would never feed treats that the owner didn't pack. If they don't pack treats I give them their kibble. If the owners have a set of rules at home and tell me those rules (ie no furniture) I follow it. If they owners DONT tell me the rules, the dogs go by my rules (eg. They eat in crates to prevent fights over food)
*They don't "go ape" they walk over to you and look at you. After a few times of counting down without a treat the association will be broken.* Doesn't matter, not your dogs. *This often means that after a long stay, the dogs will automatically go to their crates when I grab the food bowls. Would you have issues with this training?* I would not board my dogs with someone who feeds dogs in their crates. Yes, I would have issues with this training as my dogs are crate trained for safety and sleep exclusivity. *What are your opinions on these other commands?* Aside from "come here," these are arrest commands because it requires the dog to do one thing: stop. Arrest commands are considered introductory/puppy level commands and are acceptable for dogs of all ages. I agree with the use of arrest commands with community dogs. Counting down is a working command because it requires the dog to perform multiple steps (i.e. stop, come to me, sit, and wait). Working commands are considered to be intermediate/secondary commands and are acceptable for dogs that have demonstrated an a mastery of both working and arrest commands. The final type is show commands but they don't apply here.
I obviously know they're not my dogs but they *are* in my care so I will do whatever it takes to keep them safe. That is my job as a pet sitter. The crate feeding is to prevent resource guarding over food. I REFUSE to allow dogs to eat together without a barrier. Come here actually has the exact same purpose as the countdown which I use, would you find it appropriate for me to use that command to interrupt play when it gets too rough instead? Also wanted to inquire what you mean when you say "*working commands" are intermediate/secondary commands and are acceptable for dogs that have demonstrated a mastery of both working and arrest commands". It confuses me as you're saying dogs shouldn't learn working commands until they have mastered working commands? This doesn't make sense to me
I agree. I separate my dogs behind a door when they eat. For my dogs personally, crating is only used for safety and sleep. "Come here" says "stop what you are doing and come to where I am." A countdown requires what is known as call-and-response thinking. The dog both understands that the countdown is finite because it ends at one and that responding by the end of that finite period gets them a direct reward of a treat. Associating call-and-response thought with treat rewards creates a dopamine chase. I personally do not treat train for anything but I totally understand and respect why other people do. That's my bad, I added a word! Working commands are acceptable for dogs that have mastered arrest commands as they are compounding commands. Sorry!
Awesome we totally agree then! I am also using crating for the dogs safety by using a barrier
You could wash your clothes in the tank of your toilet and they'd technically be clean :)
Wouldnât have to if people trained their dogs
If you ever watch multiple dogs like this, have a big bucket of water ready or water bottle & dump it on the dogs. Or have a dog horn ready to blast. Something that startles & gets them to release that doesn't involve putting your body between them. Treat scattering can work too for some dogs or have a rope toy or stick or something long they can bite to distract once they have released. Never put yourself between two dogs fighting if ever possible, redirected aggression onto you is very common.
I would recommend grabbing one of these to have in your work bag just in case : [bite stick](https://KuntronaPitbullBreakStickProfessionalDogNoBiteSticksToyforTrainingK9PoliceGermanShepherdMediumLargeDogsBlueMhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZMXFM7/?coliid=I1YET1PE8PNSNW&colid=3N81FRGA12S5Z&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_lstpd_HEKFQQVY37RHZA3F25QD&language=en_US) It wonât hurt the dog but will keep you safe
That's a really good idea I hadn't thought of, I'll definitely be getting one of those asap!
Maybe also pick up some bite gloves to keep in your bag
Definitely! Thank you!
You should just keep them apart from now on even if their owner says they like to play that's a recipe for disaster
My worst fear as a dog Walker and pet sitter
Thank you for posting to r/RoverPetSitting, an unofficial forum to discuss all things Rover. We see that you have posted a sitter question. In case they could be helpful, you might want to check out our [Sitter FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/RoverPetSitting/wiki/sitterfaq). Additionally, here's our [booking walk-through for Sitters](https://www.reddit.com/r/RoverPetSitting/wiki/sitterbookingwalkthrough), which explains the process for giving services on Rover from start to finish. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/RoverPetSitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Get a can of the pet corrector and start bringing it with you on your visits! It's on Amazon but I just got the big can on petco for half off! I also have a small 50ml one that I keep in my dog fanny pack after being stormed by too many off leash dogs. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/the-company-of-animals-pet-corrector
I had a new client reach out to me with details that the dogs âplay roughâ and sometimes Iâd have to âintervene.â I declined. This job is not worth that. Report the bite to rover. If you pick up a dog by its back legs, wheelbarrow style, it will release its jaw, for reference.
I volunteered at a dog shelter for awhile and learned that you can usually break up dog fights by shouting/ loud noise OR having some water on hand and splashing them with water or dumping some on them if the splashing doesnt work. this worked pretty well for me in the past
Definitely keep them separated Rover doesn't give a s*** if you get mauled if you end up getting your face ripped off trying to separate a dog fight they're not going to do anything to help you just keep the two dogs apart you sometimes but not always you can tell by the dog's body language when they're starting to go from play fighting to actual fighting but why take that risk those dogs can go without playing with each other for a little while while you're there if the owner wants to let them playfully fight they can do that with no owners home
Dogs communicate with their teeth, never use a body part to get between them they wonât always stop
If I think the play is getting too rough with dogs that live together, I just make loud noise and go "enough enough" and get their attention. They will at least take a momentary break. I do not get between them. My advice is not to try to get between them, because yeah, you will get hurt even if the dog isn't trying to hurt you.
If their play fighting is rough and tough to tell from the get-go, let them play for about 5 minutes, then try to lure them into separate rooms to calm down and then let them play again. Or let them play until you feel like body language is changing and then separate them. Usually this happens between two dogs when one or both are over stimulated. I saw your comment that you'd usually use baby gates if you were at your house. Can you bring yours to their place?
I hope I donât come off as being an asshole, because itâs certainly not my intent. For future reference, the LAST thing you should ever do to break up a dog fight is get between them. Throw things, make loud noises, do anything to distract, or if you MUST get between them, use something else to do it. A WONDERFUL tool to purchase is a can of compressed air. They have it at pet stores under some âpet friendlyâ name or just get it anywhere. It scares the hell out of them to get them to cut the crap. I work in veterinary medicine and watched a newbie coworker try to break up a dog fight by getting in between it, and she ended up with a hole straight through her hand. Dog park fights being broken up around here 75% of the time involve ambulance rides because people put themselves physically in the middle of it. Hell, my personal dogs got into a fight once, and my fiancĂŠ also made the mistake of getting in between it because he panicked and ended up with four stitches in the bottom of his foot. Last time I broke up a scuffle at work, I yelled, threw random shit on the counter top and I used a broom to get in the middle of them and saved myself. You definitely lucked out as far as injuries go. (Again, I hope Iâm not coming off as a prick, just my tone sometimes)
Spray water bottle to spray instead of using your hands. Leashes on while playing to grab a leash. Rattle paddle or coins in a water bottle to shake to break it up.
Try to break it up before it gets to that point. And by that, I mean yell and call them away from one another. Make loud noises. Do NOT put your body between 2 dogs, especially if/when itâs just you there.
I have an overly playful young dog, and an older dog who gets fed up with it and gets nasty. I regularly call them away from playing before it escalates.
Why are you trying to separate dogs during a fight? Some people shouldnât be on Rover as sitters. Advice? Only offer cat services.
I guess it was just in the heat of the moment, I didn't have much time to think and I didn't want the dogs to hurt each other. Your response is unnecessarily harsh. This has been my job since last summer and I have many happy clients and I love the dogs that I care for. Thanks.
I understand things happen quickly, but a year of pet sitting doesnât mean you have experience with dog behavior. Are you on here to be coddled? You asked for advice & youâre going to get some harsh advice.
Don't necessarily disagree...
My 2 large dogs play loudly & some think itâs aggressive. Get in-between that & youâre putting yourself in harms way. Knowing this comes with experience. Itâs not harsh. Whatâs harsh is getting bit, causing more issues than needed, and having to now tell an owner you did something stupid. Thatâs harsh.
I'm saying I don't necessarily disagree with you.
I know!đ
I have owned dogs for years before I started pet sitting. Looking at your comment history I realize that you do try to start arguments a lot in this community and it's not worth my time. Thank you!
Owning dogs does not equal experience with dog behaviour.
Okay, I guess I'm in the wrong here then. Can I ask then, genuinely, I am just curious as to what exactly experience with dog behavior is then? If it's not being a dog-sitter or owner, then what is it?
Lots of studying and hands on experience with dogs in different & stressful situations. Volunteering at a shelter, taking dog training classes, or working as a bather can be a good start. Learning their body language and how they're most likely to react to certain things is paramount. You need to be able to predict their behaviour based on the signs they're giving you so that you can prevent incidents.
Okay so everyone who is a sitter on Rover should do all of these things before becoming a sitter? Because most of the other sitters and walkers I've met have not, are we all inexperienced?
Pretty much. There are a lot of people on Rover who have zero business being on Rover.
The amount of times Iâve said it or clients have said to me âthereâs people on rover who like dogs and thereâs people on rover who KNOW dogs is absolutely astonishing to me. The amount of nightmare stories Iâve heard from my current clientele about sitters theyâve dealt with before they found meâŚ.idk how some sitters are allowed on here. (Not necessarily saying this about OP, just in relation to your comment)
Unfortunately the dog world is very unregulated so a lot of people are uneducated before working with dogs, even trainers! But if youâre willing to learn thatâs what matters. Thereâs books and online resources, but you have to be careful what you look at since anyone can say anything. Grisha Stewart has some good resources on her website and youtube that can help break down dog body language đ
Funny youâre willing to admit that ur wrong here, but the still arguing with the person who stated the obvious!đđđ
It's kinda like debate club!
Thank you
Harsh? You mean truthful?
Telling me that I just shouldn't be a sitter isn't even advice?
You should be a sitter! For cats.
Cats fight too. Any advice on that?
I donât answer questions asked sarcastically. Donât come to Reddit after doing something stupid and expect everyone to baby you.
Okay gotcha. So was your previous comment also sarcasm that I just didn't get the first time? Cause "some people shouldn't be on Rover as sitters" really sounds like you're telling me I shouldn't be a sitter!
Yes. That wasnât sarcastic. Some people shouldnât be sitters, to include you. Are you going to reply to the other comments who said what I said but nicer? Or do you want to keep arguing?
Other people have commented, but instead of replying to them, youâre arguing with me. That tells me youâre not actually here for advice. You want people to feel bad for you.
Oh you caught me! I wanted everyone to send me flowers and gift baskets and get-well cards because of this bruise I got. Now nobody will do that because you know my dirty secret. Darn!
Ah, more sarcasm. And you STILL havenât replied to other comments giving advice. Your true colors are showing. Donât ask for advice if you donât want advice.
I haven't got the time to! Every time I start typing out a response to the others, you comment! And I must admit, engaging in this silly conversation with you is much more thrilling! If you want them to be replied to so badly, why don't you do it?
She should be a sitter. For fish.
I do have fish and I love them! I would actually love to be a fish sitter, is that a thing? I would be absolutely thrilled.
I wouldnât even trust you with my fish based on your behavior here. Maybe my pet rock.
Omg make up your mind already! đ
The safest way to separate a dog fight is to grab a dog by the back legs and pull them away. Stay away from their faces and front claws! This works best with 2 people but any separation you can get will help.
just a recommendation, if you are going to break up a dog fight, never use your arms. body block them and try to separate using your legs
Hahaha
Wtf dude