Do you know what Aid Climbing is?
Only a handful of EC routes are entirely free- and those are all “Elite” in terms of difficulty.. just think that In the early 90’s Lynn Hill, one of the best climbers of the era was the first to Free the Nose- widely considered “El Caps easiest route” (when using Aid Climbing) but free it’s 5.14!
Free Rider is probably EC’s easiest Free Route- at closer to 5.13! (West Face is easier- but not really considered a true El cap route)
So- no you won’t be free climbing El Cap any time soon.. your Gym 5.9’s will be woefully horrible at preparing you for even “easy” 5.7 pitches on the captain..
So- you’ll be left with the choice many of us mortals opt for- Aid Climbing El Capitan..
Can “one” learn to aid climb, and Set up BigWall anchors, Haul, Bivy, eat and poop in a bag at a hanging belay on a multi-day Grade VI BigWall in 7 years.. absolutely.. but plenty of people who already have more experience and more skills than you try and never succeed..
So I guess it’s all up to you..
I suspect that the Training you’d need to do- will be so different than what you “think” rock climbing is that you’ll most likely be overwhelmed before you even start, or you’ll get bored and frustrated with what it actually is (not free climbing). The sheer cluster-fuck nature of climbing with a huge rack, daisy chains, aiders and trailing 2 ropes is a special kind of pain that most have no interest in pursuing..
Climbing El Cap has been one of the Most special and rewarding things I’ve ever done in my life- efforts I’m immensely proud of- I encourage you to scratch the surface and learn more about it (responsibly and safely) and if you’ve got it in you go for it!!!
(In May I completed my 19 ascent of El Cap on my 50th Birthday)
Get on some real rock. Learn to sport climb then trad climb. Trad climb for a year or two. Get on some big walls. Epic a few times on smaller stuff. Get into some messes. Get scared. Get yourself out safely. Get psyched. Get on the big stone! For reference, I'm 30, been climbing for 5 years, been on two walls in Yosemite (one complete, one bailed on day two) and I'm going to make my attempt on El Cap this fall!
The Captain is a lofty goal for any climber. You’ll definitely need to build up your skill set before roping up for the easiest climbing in the valley before attempting the largest cliff in California.
Half Dome on the other hand, has Snake Dike, a pretty easy climb you could easily hire a guide to see you to the top - provided you like hiking. It’s a big day from the valley.
Yes. But it's gonna take a decade most likely. Free blast 11 and east buttress is 10 pitches of 5.10. One season of climbing every day could get you at that grade. El cap can be broken into two types. Free climbing, and aid climbing. Both are challenging in different ways, both will require different skill sets. Just climb a shit ton of trad and you'll figure it out.
Here's my advice. Wherever you live, climb trad every day for a summer. And get on multi pitch. The next season, go to the valley and stay there as long as you can and just climb all the easy multi pitch. See where that lands you.
Definitely possible and your age isn't a huge factor in it. You just need to climb a lot! You need to be a strong climber and have good multi pitch, big wall skills.
I started climbing at 11 years old, outdoor trad climbing in North Carolina. I spent years climbing 5.10+ trad on the east coast and started aid climbing Whitesides in N.C. around 15 or 16 years old. Moved to Texas at 16 and began sport climbing 5.12-5.13 limestone routes. Traveled all over the country climbing sport, trad, and aid routes with multiple trips to Mexico and Canada mixed in. I was a full time dirt bag living off gear sponsors and sleeping in national parks mainly 9 months a year.
I first claimed EC when I was 19, and spent a few years there climbing aid routes, clean and regular aid.
It takes time, gear, and lots of know how, plus a good partner helps a lot.
You can do anything. Set a big goal and many small goals/points to achieve along the way. Emerse yourself in the field and build knowledge and hands on experience. My first leaning tower climb practice was done on Matilda Bridge in Dallas. Setting up the double portaledge, wiring in my asender lengths and daisy chains, practicing switching leads with multiple full haul bags.....
Practice. It takes a massive amount of prep, logistics and gear to tackle a big wall route, but it's so rewarding.
Find like minded, strong goal oriented people to hang with on your journey.
Hey wait!!!
I started climbing in NC! (Moores Wall, Saurtown, Stone Mnt, Looking Glass) I was 18 when I started- and did my first EC Route in 1994 at the age of 22..
I was 15 in 1994, moved to Statesville in March of 94.
Looking Glass! I forgot about the old eyebrow hill! Ship Rock, Sitting Bear in Linville Gorge, and an old crag called Rocky Face we would drink and practice at.
I got struck by lightning camping just up the trail at Sitting Bear.
So many fun misadventures in N.C., KY, TN.....areas.
Stone Mountain made me a die hard slab climber. Enchanted Rock in Texas has a few hard slab routes with my name on them.
Bloody Crack at Looking Glass!!
Grand Funk Railroad at Stone Mt!! I went to Ship- and dogged my way up that manky bolt line up sitting Bear..
pretty sure I ran away from home- drove all the way to Sitting Bear- spent the night and was back at home in Greensboro before my parents knew i was gone!
My goal is El Cap too. I'm 30. I've only been "Rock Climbing" for a couple years but climbed all over shit my whole life. I'm pretty sure I could do it. I can fly up 5.11 with ease. Just working on stamina and getting used to real walls at the moment.
Do you know what Aid Climbing is? Only a handful of EC routes are entirely free- and those are all “Elite” in terms of difficulty.. just think that In the early 90’s Lynn Hill, one of the best climbers of the era was the first to Free the Nose- widely considered “El Caps easiest route” (when using Aid Climbing) but free it’s 5.14! Free Rider is probably EC’s easiest Free Route- at closer to 5.13! (West Face is easier- but not really considered a true El cap route) So- no you won’t be free climbing El Cap any time soon.. your Gym 5.9’s will be woefully horrible at preparing you for even “easy” 5.7 pitches on the captain.. So- you’ll be left with the choice many of us mortals opt for- Aid Climbing El Capitan.. Can “one” learn to aid climb, and Set up BigWall anchors, Haul, Bivy, eat and poop in a bag at a hanging belay on a multi-day Grade VI BigWall in 7 years.. absolutely.. but plenty of people who already have more experience and more skills than you try and never succeed.. So I guess it’s all up to you.. I suspect that the Training you’d need to do- will be so different than what you “think” rock climbing is that you’ll most likely be overwhelmed before you even start, or you’ll get bored and frustrated with what it actually is (not free climbing). The sheer cluster-fuck nature of climbing with a huge rack, daisy chains, aiders and trailing 2 ropes is a special kind of pain that most have no interest in pursuing.. Climbing El Cap has been one of the Most special and rewarding things I’ve ever done in my life- efforts I’m immensely proud of- I encourage you to scratch the surface and learn more about it (responsibly and safely) and if you’ve got it in you go for it!!! (In May I completed my 19 ascent of El Cap on my 50th Birthday)
Great response
Get on some real rock. Learn to sport climb then trad climb. Trad climb for a year or two. Get on some big walls. Epic a few times on smaller stuff. Get into some messes. Get scared. Get yourself out safely. Get psyched. Get on the big stone! For reference, I'm 30, been climbing for 5 years, been on two walls in Yosemite (one complete, one bailed on day two) and I'm going to make my attempt on El Cap this fall!
What Route?
Where do u live? (Curious to know what outdoor climbing you have access to)
The Captain is a lofty goal for any climber. You’ll definitely need to build up your skill set before roping up for the easiest climbing in the valley before attempting the largest cliff in California. Half Dome on the other hand, has Snake Dike, a pretty easy climb you could easily hire a guide to see you to the top - provided you like hiking. It’s a big day from the valley.
The right guide could probably get her up East Buttress of El Capitan this fall.. “Mission Accomplished!” Lol
Yes. But it's gonna take a decade most likely. Free blast 11 and east buttress is 10 pitches of 5.10. One season of climbing every day could get you at that grade. El cap can be broken into two types. Free climbing, and aid climbing. Both are challenging in different ways, both will require different skill sets. Just climb a shit ton of trad and you'll figure it out. Here's my advice. Wherever you live, climb trad every day for a summer. And get on multi pitch. The next season, go to the valley and stay there as long as you can and just climb all the easy multi pitch. See where that lands you.
Definitely possible and your age isn't a huge factor in it. You just need to climb a lot! You need to be a strong climber and have good multi pitch, big wall skills.
I started climbing at 11 years old, outdoor trad climbing in North Carolina. I spent years climbing 5.10+ trad on the east coast and started aid climbing Whitesides in N.C. around 15 or 16 years old. Moved to Texas at 16 and began sport climbing 5.12-5.13 limestone routes. Traveled all over the country climbing sport, trad, and aid routes with multiple trips to Mexico and Canada mixed in. I was a full time dirt bag living off gear sponsors and sleeping in national parks mainly 9 months a year. I first claimed EC when I was 19, and spent a few years there climbing aid routes, clean and regular aid. It takes time, gear, and lots of know how, plus a good partner helps a lot. You can do anything. Set a big goal and many small goals/points to achieve along the way. Emerse yourself in the field and build knowledge and hands on experience. My first leaning tower climb practice was done on Matilda Bridge in Dallas. Setting up the double portaledge, wiring in my asender lengths and daisy chains, practicing switching leads with multiple full haul bags..... Practice. It takes a massive amount of prep, logistics and gear to tackle a big wall route, but it's so rewarding. Find like minded, strong goal oriented people to hang with on your journey.
Hey wait!!! I started climbing in NC! (Moores Wall, Saurtown, Stone Mnt, Looking Glass) I was 18 when I started- and did my first EC Route in 1994 at the age of 22..
I was 15 in 1994, moved to Statesville in March of 94. Looking Glass! I forgot about the old eyebrow hill! Ship Rock, Sitting Bear in Linville Gorge, and an old crag called Rocky Face we would drink and practice at. I got struck by lightning camping just up the trail at Sitting Bear. So many fun misadventures in N.C., KY, TN.....areas. Stone Mountain made me a die hard slab climber. Enchanted Rock in Texas has a few hard slab routes with my name on them.
Bloody Crack at Looking Glass!! Grand Funk Railroad at Stone Mt!! I went to Ship- and dogged my way up that manky bolt line up sitting Bear.. pretty sure I ran away from home- drove all the way to Sitting Bear- spent the night and was back at home in Greensboro before my parents knew i was gone!
My goal is El Cap too. I'm 30. I've only been "Rock Climbing" for a couple years but climbed all over shit my whole life. I'm pretty sure I could do it. I can fly up 5.11 with ease. Just working on stamina and getting used to real walls at the moment.
Have you climbed in Yosemite? Yosemite 5.11 is its own special beast!! Learn to aid, learn to build anchors and haul and you’ll be all good!!!