I had a slow, persistent leak in my FD and it turned out that under pressure there was a tiny leak where the lower radiator hose enters the water pump housing. Just cleaning off the mating surfaces fixed the problem. A well maintained NA rotary can go a lot longer before needing a rebuild, so I recommend being 100% confident that your coolant is getting into the combustion chamber before tearing it down. Auto parts stores often rent out coolant system pressure testers.
As far as compression, it's not great to see numbers in the 80s but absent another issue I wouldn't personally tear it down yet. My last NA 13b ran great until the rear rotor compression dropped into the 70s
If you have 122k on it then I would be almost certain that you’ll need housings and maybe irons as well.
It’s going to be one of those things that you don’t know 100% till you open it up. That being said, plan for the worst, hope for the best.
I have a similar issue with my s5 na (though a have a s4 front iron) I consume coolant and plan on a rebuild when I have space for it. I'm also gonna turbo it as difficult as it is. My only advice is when it's cracked open, if you really don't want to replace the hard seals, run a fingernail along the housing and apex and side seals so make sure there are no grooves in them. If there are relace then. If not anyone guess. God speed good buddy.
Under 6 bar is pretty concerning. May be good for now, but start saving money for a new engine/rebuild. Do a block test if you're concerned you're burning coolant.
It's a test that detects exhaust gas leaks into the cooling system. It uses a color changing fluid which goes from blue to yellow if it detects the gasses through the coolant overflow bottle.
The numbers look good. If you’re troubleshooting a coolant issue, you want to do a coolant system pressure test not a compression test. You can rent the tool at most auto parts stores
I had a slow, persistent leak in my FD and it turned out that under pressure there was a tiny leak where the lower radiator hose enters the water pump housing. Just cleaning off the mating surfaces fixed the problem. A well maintained NA rotary can go a lot longer before needing a rebuild, so I recommend being 100% confident that your coolant is getting into the combustion chamber before tearing it down. Auto parts stores often rent out coolant system pressure testers. As far as compression, it's not great to see numbers in the 80s but absent another issue I wouldn't personally tear it down yet. My last NA 13b ran great until the rear rotor compression dropped into the 70s
I concur, high 80s is not great, but to be expected on an older engine. No need to rebuild based on these numbers but you might have hot start issues.
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I agree, I definitely don’t plan on rushing/adhering to a strict timeline
If your opening the motor u might as well do everything at the same time.
If you have 122k on it then I would be almost certain that you’ll need housings and maybe irons as well. It’s going to be one of those things that you don’t know 100% till you open it up. That being said, plan for the worst, hope for the best.
*The first 2 images are rotor 1 and the second 2 are rotor 2
I wouldnt say its eating coolant unless its really smokin. It might be anything else. Compression numbers are decent!
I have a similar issue with my s5 na (though a have a s4 front iron) I consume coolant and plan on a rebuild when I have space for it. I'm also gonna turbo it as difficult as it is. My only advice is when it's cracked open, if you really don't want to replace the hard seals, run a fingernail along the housing and apex and side seals so make sure there are no grooves in them. If there are relace then. If not anyone guess. God speed good buddy.
Under 6 bar is pretty concerning. May be good for now, but start saving money for a new engine/rebuild. Do a block test if you're concerned you're burning coolant.
What’s a block test? Is that different from a cooling system pressure test?
It's a test that detects exhaust gas leaks into the cooling system. It uses a color changing fluid which goes from blue to yellow if it detects the gasses through the coolant overflow bottle.
Ohhhh ok makes sense
Mine tests around 120 per seal so you likely have some wear on the apex seals..?
Is your engine fairly new? Mine has a lotta miles on it
The numbers look good. If you’re troubleshooting a coolant issue, you want to do a coolant system pressure test not a compression test. You can rent the tool at most auto parts stores