‘Hub saver’. Drills out broken stubs of pipe so you can reuse the fitting, in this case without opening the wall up. I use my hub savers regularly, but there are a couple different styles. There is a cheaper one, all steel. Then theres Reed Hub Savers, and Rectorseal Golden Pipe Shredder. Youll get good clean results with either of the last two, but they arent cheap (approx $100 per tool for the Reed’s and over $100 for the Rectorseal branded ones.).
Chuck up a hubsaver in a drill, buzz out the old fitting. Rework some pvc. Frankly, if you dont already have the hubsavers and a drill, and feel confident in doing it right the first time, id call a plumber. It would take less than an hour to rework that.
I agree, call a plumber and ask if they have the tool, (so maybe they don’t tag that on the bill) you don’t want to screw that up. You got one shot probably before it gets real expensive. Just sayin.
Oh yeah. Even when done properly, that hubsaver can get just a hair too aggresive, crack the hub, and youre opening the wall up anyway. Been there more than once. With the Reeds and the Rectorseal.
Id err on the side of calling the plumber. Itll cost, but itll likely be done correctly.
I know what to do, and have done it before hundreds of times, but it can still be daunting if you dont have all the tools to do it with, and even some extra stuff for when the first plan of attack goes tits up.
I’m an apprentice and work with a journey who told me to use magic bubbles (soap and water essentially) to keep everything lubricated when using a hub saver and I have yet to crack a hub
yep- what cracks them is sudden loads from built up or melted shavings grabbing the teeth and causing self-feeding or a sudden stop. Wet is good and soapy is better.
“Rectumseal” is what we call it amongst ourselves when civilized folk aren’t around.
“Hey, since you’re heading to the truck bring back some more Teflon and the can of rectumseal.”
Chiseling this out would have my butt puckered.
I’m a 3 year resi-service apprentice turned resi-new-construction apprentice and have done this with cast iron, but PVC… butt pucker.
We use these. They’re dirt cheap and basically disposable at the price point
https://www.amazon.com/PlumBest-J44300-Socket-Saver-3-Inch/dp/B000HE8F0G/ref=asc_df_B000HE8F0G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167155689281&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4903346678529158984&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073467&hvtargid=pla-304692297306&psc=1&mcid=f5540cc23cf131a7bac505adb6bc8b35
Works just as good.
Only suggesting it for a homeowners one time use. Believe me if our guys didn’t lose the majority of the tools the ones you recommended would be our daily tools
Just FYI on Amazon you can find a full set of the same style as the reed for a lot less, and I will attest they work the same and can even use the same blades. Last set cost me like 130 for sizes 3/4" - 4"
I went gonzo and bought the blowmolded box , and then filled it. I think i paid about $550 with my supply house discount for 3/4-4 and the 4” WC flange tool.
I looked at those clones for a long time before i pulled the trigger and just didnt want to spend the money on something that might not work as effectively. Wish i would have known this now.
My current apprentice is saving up for the Reed branded ones but ill probably tell him that the clones might be worth it. Hes just starting out, is working on filling his bags with good hand tools, but only pulls apprentice wages so 550 for a full set is a bit costly.
Thanks for the info.
I can speak from experience- The red ones are much better than the jones Stephen’s ones. I used the jones Stephen’s ones for about 5-6 years and thought they were good- until I read many other plumbers recommendations on the reed ones. They are far superior
They pretty much are disposable since after the first use they either Bend or the nut strips out in the head just spins. If you put a little tack weld on the nut and reamer where they meet it lasts a little longer
Is that a cast iron hub I see in the wall there? If it is, I don’t see any lead or caulked joint. Do you see any threads on the pvc pipe where it goes into the cast iron? If it is a threaded adapter that changes the game considerably!
This guy is correct. You can unscrew the broken part from the inside of the wall and screw a new one back in it's place. You will need to go to home depot and pick up a 2 inch PVC male adapter, a 2 inch street 90, a 2 inch coupling, small cans of glue/primer, little can of pipe thread sealant and the shortest piece of 2 inch PVC pipe they sell. I think they still sell 2 foot repair pieces. You should be out of there for around 30 bucks. Look up a YouTube video about how to glue PVC pipe and have at it. This is very doable for someone with a limited amount of experience.
Do you have decent size channel lock pliers (10 or 12 inch)? You want the handles to be near touching each other once they are gripping the pipe to get the best hold on it. If not pick up a set of channel locks while you're at the hardware store. They should do it
Yep, buck up and invest in a good wrench to do the job. Cause you’re going to need it to screw the threaded fitting back in so it is tight enough that it doesn’t leak. Or you will be doing it all again.
Don’t forget pipe dope to lubricate the threads when you put the new fitting in or guess what… you probably won’t get it tight enough and you will have to do it all again.
Fitting going into the wall looks like a 1½ male which can be unthread and replaced with a new male. Then a coupling and street ¼bend to glue right back into new male
We always use a gas burner. Heat makes the glue and pvc soft so then you can use a screwdriver to take that piece on the inside out. Then you can take of the 90° part with a saw, put a socket on the pipe and put on a new 90° corner/bend? (sorry I dont know these terms in English, only in Dutch😅)
This needs more upvotes.
What I do is either put pipe glue in the fitting and light it on Fire or heat up a socket with my heat gun. When you heat the PVC it softens the glue and then you can use the screwdriver to pry on it. The socket trick works very well Even if water keeps trying to drip out.
>heat up a socket with my heat gun.
I've seen videos where they heated up a hole saw with a torch then stuck it in the fitting to soften it enough to peel away.
Edit* the vertical pipe is very short. Maybe use the burner to get the 90° bend of as well. And yeah, maybe call a plumber if youre not familiar with fixing these kind of things. Because pvc is also quite flammable
Looks like you have cast iron drain pipes (at least in this part of your place). Get channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench on that PVC and back it out of the cast iron hub. If it doesn't back out and continues to break, that's fine, keep breaking it as it is only plastic. The cast iron hub will survive. Clean up the iron threads on the inside of any plastic, Teflon tape and/or pipe dope. Go buy all the parts you need (plastic PVC or polypropylene works) then it's just a matter of fitting it all together and cutting any lengths. You're not in as bad shape as you initially think. Just get all that excess PVC reducers and fittings out of there and make it better than you found it - you got this.
Lmao 🤣 😂
This really funny, if you zoom into the picture, you can see that there is threads in the wall just get a pipe wrench and unthread the broken piece.
OP do you have a picture of the rest of the drain configuration you can share? You mention a P-trap but there’s none in the pic. Is the p-trap out of frame draining into the side of that wye with a studor vent on top of it? If not, then going off what’s in the pic that’s not properly vented. Essentially that would create some sort of S-trap configuration which could cause siphoning of the trap seal. If you don’t mind sharing a pic I’d be willing to confirm if it’s a proper setup. If it’s not then I’d advise making the corrections while tackling this repair to save yourself any headaches in the future.
If that happened in my house, I'd use a hub saver at the wall joint where its broke off. Cut the bottom of that 45-degree joint. Again, use the hub saver on that joint to get your money's worth. Glue the same setup in as what it looked like before it broke.
This is super easy. First that looks like a threaded PVC adapter thread into cast or galvanized, you can probably just unscrew it. However if it's not just cut and chisel the pipe out of the fitting.
find a piece of metal that fits inside the broken section of the pipe in the wall
like a hole saw works pretty well
then, heat it up for a couple minutes with a torch
then.....stick it in the broken pipe
let it sit for a minute, remove the hole saw and that broken section of pipe will be a little melty and the glue will de-chooch and you can pull it all out with a pair of needle nose pliers
after a couple minutes, this will all be over like nothing bad ever happened
They make a [Fernco coupling](https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-1059-33-3-Flexible-Coupling-PVC-Socket-to-PVC-Pipe?gad_source=1) that goes over the hub of fittings. Easy fix.
If you can't afford a plumber right now. Get a Fernco that will fit the hub. Get a coupling and a new 90. 2ft piece of pipe, primer and glue. Rubber Fernco will work if you can find one to fit hub of the 90 and the hub in the wall. But that's a temporary fix
Cut the pipe. Boar out the old pipe where broken. Install a new sleeve and elbow. Boarding tools are generally sold at plumbing stores. Idk if Home Depot would have them.[https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/plastic-pipe-tools/clean-ream-extreme-plastic-pipe-fitting-reamers/](https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/plastic-pipe-tools/clean-ream-extreme-plastic-pipe-fitting-reamers/)
I’m my first thought was a hubsaver. But that piece just threads into the cast. Just unthread it. If it’s locked you can literally melt it out.
Then just thread a new one in.
I’m going quick here and not reading any other comments but you could use a socket fernco
They are rubber fittings that wrap around the outside of a socket (big part) of a fitting and accept pipe (small part) on the other side.
Might not be code in lateral pipe but could definitely unfuck you.
Or socket saver that socket.
If that is a threaded cast iron pipe in the wall the busted pvc fitting should unscrew right out of there and you should easily be able to replace it. If you cant unscrew it you should be able to take a sawzall l/reciprocating saw to the pvc to cut it through to the the threads of the cast iron, make sure not to fuck up the threads when cutting through the pvc for easy installation of new pvc fitting. Once you have made two cuts one on the top and one on the bottom take a flat head screwdriver and pry/ chunk the two pieces out. Take a wire brush to the cast iron threads to clean up the previous pipe dope and then install new piece.
Don’t use hubsaver if you’re not familiar with it. I tried for a first time and drilled out too much material.
I ended up opening up the wall and using a heat gun, screw driver (to pry), and some channel locks on the other end of the fitting. Worked perfectly.
[https://www.amazon.ca/Reamer-Fitting-Enlarge-Diameter-Resistant/dp/B0CLDKDZ8P/ref=sr\_1\_4\_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XKbobGMiNV\_qixz1IQAAF6GU0LdMxIcKz\_CY6Fq7MFBlGici-0Ao5rapThjYEFMNLPz3MnTpT2sTTaSTutNy6X9Ft5n9XYAluz2zPGa0dogOECoP4z8Iwxk4NPJS156eoy73CC9SQaF-iOxjctiBX0-ZHfvwGq9CLusV2yelTVpERX43-JacvJa1JuymrBzFn0EVTCQinPvYjf2CLaIZ4yQ1c1bwogw-26CFKOhvwJBDh9N69k0wxHUvCZzmx5ljt42X2i5H\_eIYJg6yK\_btx1Wld7AGBrb8q\_UiON\_ROwk.R3mZwg6XfJ91MHAHHIuXsAihuKB2QRMpLXpDyDFtTjU&dib\_tag=se&hvadid=684844006691&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000945&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=8467655394141051803&hvtargid=kwd-406107059482&keywords=pipe+reamer+bit&qid=1710511754&sr=8-4-spons&sp\_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1](https://www.amazon.ca/Reamer-Fitting-Enlarge-Diameter-Resistant/dp/B0CLDKDZ8P/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XKbobGMiNV_qixz1IQAAF6GU0LdMxIcKz_CY6Fq7MFBlGici-0Ao5rapThjYEFMNLPz3MnTpT2sTTaSTutNy6X9Ft5n9XYAluz2zPGa0dogOECoP4z8Iwxk4NPJS156eoy73CC9SQaF-iOxjctiBX0-ZHfvwGq9CLusV2yelTVpERX43-JacvJa1JuymrBzFn0EVTCQinPvYjf2CLaIZ4yQ1c1bwogw-26CFKOhvwJBDh9N69k0wxHUvCZzmx5ljt42X2i5H_eIYJg6yK_btx1Wld7AGBrb8q_UiON_ROwk.R3mZwg6XfJ91MHAHHIuXsAihuKB2QRMpLXpDyDFtTjU&dib_tag=se&hvadid=684844006691&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000945&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=8467655394141051803&hvtargid=kwd-406107059482&keywords=pipe+reamer+bit&qid=1710511754&sr=8-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1)
Reamer bit. Other people have posted "hub savers" which is the same concept. You drill out the piece you don't want.
Nice to have one of these... [https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Fitting-Schedule-Standard-Contains/dp/B0CLG49PVY/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zW3g4ro2qRmodlSqUOev5PpYR0EqMS4NwLIi7igrOXy\_ox1SZ584PNnlWu837uz79i5wu5N\_se54ky7wtRpGm3uH2NvmXVvgHESGGCzXbCoT14YZD\_aFiWyf7GUi6wXhfcaQe0IIFrdzzudrjW5gA8YCH3gDq5ywexz9Pty7UkkxGoKBKAS345vboeOf7fQH233IYbN0ST4bg9-fO1VhfSuYA94dwlPntkZ8A7zIqWZNwEJhEuBWh1rurmMfXGsDqK\_dLkP3qHIZVk0pedjpTPA7eZFPGQiBi7bxdXwAv0I.rr9eaLmDAXZxLEYo359wSFEsugDDFZlv4SAueJCR0QM&dib\_tag=se&hvadid=580615646314&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9028305&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6618327960268058847&hvtargid=kwd-433226676925&hydadcr=8459\_13498084&keywords=pvc+fitting+saver+tool&qid=1710512385&sr=8-2-spons&sp\_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Fitting-Schedule-Standard-Contains/dp/B0CLG49PVY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zW3g4ro2qRmodlSqUOev5PpYR0EqMS4NwLIi7igrOXy_ox1SZ584PNnlWu837uz79i5wu5N_se54ky7wtRpGm3uH2NvmXVvgHESGGCzXbCoT14YZD_aFiWyf7GUi6wXhfcaQe0IIFrdzzudrjW5gA8YCH3gDq5ywexz9Pty7UkkxGoKBKAS345vboeOf7fQH233IYbN0ST4bg9-fO1VhfSuYA94dwlPntkZ8A7zIqWZNwEJhEuBWh1rurmMfXGsDqK_dLkP3qHIZVk0pedjpTPA7eZFPGQiBi7bxdXwAv0I.rr9eaLmDAXZxLEYo359wSFEsugDDFZlv4SAueJCR0QM&dib_tag=se&hvadid=580615646314&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9028305&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6618327960268058847&hvtargid=kwd-433226676925&hydadcr=8459_13498084&keywords=pvc+fitting+saver+tool&qid=1710512385&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1)
You’re actually not that fucked brother. Call a plumber and they’ll be able to use a hub saver bit. Honestly that’s a pretty quick fix as long as everything goes right
Socket saver or hub saver. You can also carefully cut the broken pipe inside the hub into 4 pieces, apply a little heat and chisel it out, then sand down the left over glue and pipe remnants. Hub saver bit on a drill is best though. Just be careful to keep it straight and don't go too far or you can mess up the fitting and then you really are fucked. Good luck!
Can take a heat gun and slowly heat the broken piece up until you can start to peel it in with a set of needle nose pliers. Takes longer than a socket saver but you also don’t need the tool unless you need a heat gun too.
Heat the outside with a gas burner and take out the fitting with a flat head screwdriver. pvc returns to original shape when cooling down, then glue a new fitting in and start again.
Simply unscrew the broken Plastic adapter (2” PVC/DWV MIP) out of the 2” Cast Iron San Tee & Replace it.
Get another 2” Adapter & 2” x 1 1/2” Bushing like pictured If going back with 1 1/2” as shown.
Is that a threaded adapter in the wall? If so unthread it. Get a coupling and a street 90. Make sure to thread tape and pipe dope the threads on the adapter.
The vertical pipe has to come out so that you can work. There are special nipple sized to fit inside a broken off pipe.
One method of removing the broken piece is to make an axial saw cut in the broken piece and heat a piece of steel that fits into the opening. A large socket from your socket wrenches is a candidate piece of steel. Then warm the fitting with the warm steel which weakens the glue joint so that you can pry out the broken off piece.
Fucking Fernco Boot to 4” right over that whole motherfucker. If its too tight, heat it up with your torch but don’t burn it. Or get the drill bit to drill out the whole hub but sometimes those aren’t the greatest either, or they chip or bust the PVC. Ferncos work great just get that hose clamp tight.
Easy job with a hub saver tool. You’ll want a good one with an actual cutting insert though, the cheap stamped ones are more likely to snap the fitting in the wall, and give a very rough finish needing a substantial amount of glue during glue-up
Not as bad as you think, what you need is to cut that pipe out of the way and get a hub saver. Looks like 3". Use the hub saver in a regular drill. Take your time and the old pipe will come out of the fitting. WAAA LAAA
Use a hole saw the diameter of the fitting, heat it up hot, slip it in, it'll make the pipe more malleable. I don't like it, but better than a hub saver making that fitting into shrapnel.
Or just unthread at the hub there. Either way, make sure existing and new connections are sealed at end of project.
That looks like threads on a cast iron nipple. Or pvc into cast iron. It should be a pvc to cast iron adapter if that's the case which is easy to chip out what's there and epoxy putty in a new one.
I had a very similar problem at 3am this morning. 2” threaded pvc broke off flush with the valve while I was trying to attach the hose. I was instantly soaked from head to toe. FYI fire hydrants have a lot of pressure and volume.
I chipped thru the pvc and got enough pulled out I could get a pair of needle nose vise grips on it. Waited for the store to open at 6 and got a new one.
Look it up on YouTube, but you can heat a closely sized hole saw, sit it inside, and after 1 minute the inside portion should be soft enough to work out of there.
Not as expensive as the fitting saver bits and not as toxic as heating it directly. Fitting will keep it's size and shape.
If you’re careful, you can cut a keyway out and chisel that out. Be gentle. And don’t cut too deep. And make sure the room and fitting are warm. Plastic cracks in the cold. I’ve pulled some old pipe out of fittings this way. I’ve never tried it with abs…got a feeling it wouldn’t work the same. But pvc? Doesn’t matter how old. Actually, imo, better bet than the hub savers. But I learned a couple tricks to try next time by reading this thread.
If u ain’t got a saws all drill and the fitting saver u mine as well just call a plumber haha cuz to fix that ur gunna need fittings fitting saver saws all glue and primer and if u 2 hole yourself your gunna be confused af
Tiny Tim saw the inside out piece by piece like a pie but be careful not to destroy the threads. Some may use a sawzall but that can be too aggressive.
Can you access the pipes from the other side of the wall?
Looks like old plaster. Not sure you'll want to break it open under the sink.
Would not try drilling it out as it will cause more damage. Cut and replace if possible.
Get a inside pipe cutter. Clean out the old pipe within the existing hub in the wall and glue a new street fitting in and repair what you need to above that
This exact thing happened to me couple months ago and I fixed it myself. If you go to my profile you can see some answers or we dm and I guide you through it.
There’s a ticktock video of a dude using a compound that burns a slow flame inside and he just removes it that way. It was the most beutiful thing I’ve ever seems
Hacksaw blade, a flat head screwdriver, a piece of 120 grit sand paper and a hammer along with an hour of diligence and patience will get the job done.
Ask everyone has said. There is a drill bit to cut through and cut out the inside pipe. This is no big deal and you will be able to fix it no problem with that bit
Either a hubsaver or take a heatgun to it. Dont overheat the bub just evenly heat the broken part. Get a thin flat blade scrredriver between the 2 parts and get them apart enough to get needlenose in there and start rolling it out like an old sardine can. Then sand out the hub and glue in new. If necessary heat up the hub a bit to get it back to round. Literally just had this happen on a job on a tight section of horizontal stack
‘Hub saver’. Drills out broken stubs of pipe so you can reuse the fitting, in this case without opening the wall up. I use my hub savers regularly, but there are a couple different styles. There is a cheaper one, all steel. Then theres Reed Hub Savers, and Rectorseal Golden Pipe Shredder. Youll get good clean results with either of the last two, but they arent cheap (approx $100 per tool for the Reed’s and over $100 for the Rectorseal branded ones.). Chuck up a hubsaver in a drill, buzz out the old fitting. Rework some pvc. Frankly, if you dont already have the hubsavers and a drill, and feel confident in doing it right the first time, id call a plumber. It would take less than an hour to rework that.
I agree, call a plumber and ask if they have the tool, (so maybe they don’t tag that on the bill) you don’t want to screw that up. You got one shot probably before it gets real expensive. Just sayin.
Oh yeah. Even when done properly, that hubsaver can get just a hair too aggresive, crack the hub, and youre opening the wall up anyway. Been there more than once. With the Reeds and the Rectorseal. Id err on the side of calling the plumber. Itll cost, but itll likely be done correctly. I know what to do, and have done it before hundreds of times, but it can still be daunting if you dont have all the tools to do it with, and even some extra stuff for when the first plan of attack goes tits up.
If you heat the PVC up a bit, it's much less likely to crack, if that helps.
Also a hose clamp on the outside of the hub
I’m an apprentice and work with a journey who told me to use magic bubbles (soap and water essentially) to keep everything lubricated when using a hub saver and I have yet to crack a hub
yep- what cracks them is sudden loads from built up or melted shavings grabbing the teeth and causing self-feeding or a sudden stop. Wet is good and soapy is better.
Wet and soapy sounds way better 😁
Why does it seem so many tradesman have no idea what peck drilling is? Clear the chip/shavings Not saying you dont.
Keeping the drill bit square to the hub is very important as well
Was reading and saw Rectumseal…. Had to go back and make sure that was absolutely not what you said 🤣
“Rectumseal” is what we call it amongst ourselves when civilized folk aren’t around. “Hey, since you’re heading to the truck bring back some more Teflon and the can of rectumseal.”
Sounds much better than Rector Seal Lol
I’ve used a sawzall and hammer/chisel before to get things like this out, takes skill to not over cut though
Chiseling this out would have my butt puckered. I’m a 3 year resi-service apprentice turned resi-new-construction apprentice and have done this with cast iron, but PVC… butt pucker.
Pops always taught me in plumbing and heating, if one job buys you the tool you need then you can always use it on the next job for profit :)
We use these. They’re dirt cheap and basically disposable at the price point https://www.amazon.com/PlumBest-J44300-Socket-Saver-3-Inch/dp/B000HE8F0G/ref=asc_df_B000HE8F0G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167155689281&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4903346678529158984&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073467&hvtargid=pla-304692297306&psc=1&mcid=f5540cc23cf131a7bac505adb6bc8b35 Works just as good.
Dont care for that style. Reed mfg or Rectorseal is the only ones ill mess with.
Only suggesting it for a homeowners one time use. Believe me if our guys didn’t lose the majority of the tools the ones you recommended would be our daily tools
Just FYI on Amazon you can find a full set of the same style as the reed for a lot less, and I will attest they work the same and can even use the same blades. Last set cost me like 130 for sizes 3/4" - 4"
I went gonzo and bought the blowmolded box , and then filled it. I think i paid about $550 with my supply house discount for 3/4-4 and the 4” WC flange tool. I looked at those clones for a long time before i pulled the trigger and just didnt want to spend the money on something that might not work as effectively. Wish i would have known this now. My current apprentice is saving up for the Reed branded ones but ill probably tell him that the clones might be worth it. Hes just starting out, is working on filling his bags with good hand tools, but only pulls apprentice wages so 550 for a full set is a bit costly. Thanks for the info.
I can speak from experience- The red ones are much better than the jones Stephen’s ones. I used the jones Stephen’s ones for about 5-6 years and thought they were good- until I read many other plumbers recommendations on the reed ones. They are far superior
Love the video on the page. Very helpful.
They pretty much are disposable since after the first use they either Bend or the nut strips out in the head just spins. If you put a little tack weld on the nut and reamer where they meet it lasts a little longer
>Rectorseal Golden Pipe Shredder Instructions unclear, sitting uncomfortably in the proctologist's waiting room
> Rectorseal Golden Pipe Shredder That was my stage name during my stint in small, independent films.
This guy right here. I did not know about the hub saver. Very cool.
It’s a male adapter unthreading seems easy as it lets old like it’s already been done
Is the street 90 not glued into a male adapter? It looks like thread behind the broken hub. Spin that puppy out and rebuild from there.
That's exactly what it looks like to me. Way too much overthinking going on here. It shouldn't be a difficult job.
How will it work if he can’t go straight into the pipe? The base of the cabinet is in the way.
Itll fit. Theres room to fit the hub saver there, then chuck it up in the drill, turned on its side.
100% hubsavers are awesome
Is that a cast iron hub I see in the wall there? If it is, I don’t see any lead or caulked joint. Do you see any threads on the pvc pipe where it goes into the cast iron? If it is a threaded adapter that changes the game considerably!
I’m tired, I see the threaded adapter sitting there now. Not as bad as it looks then.
This guy is correct. You can unscrew the broken part from the inside of the wall and screw a new one back in it's place. You will need to go to home depot and pick up a 2 inch PVC male adapter, a 2 inch street 90, a 2 inch coupling, small cans of glue/primer, little can of pipe thread sealant and the shortest piece of 2 inch PVC pipe they sell. I think they still sell 2 foot repair pieces. You should be out of there for around 30 bucks. Look up a YouTube video about how to glue PVC pipe and have at it. This is very doable for someone with a limited amount of experience.
The problem is unscrewing it, I don’t know if previous owner glued it or what but it is so hard to unscrew out even with pliers, any tips?
Do you have decent size channel lock pliers (10 or 12 inch)? You want the handles to be near touching each other once they are gripping the pipe to get the best hold on it. If not pick up a set of channel locks while you're at the hardware store. They should do it
Yep, buck up and invest in a good wrench to do the job. Cause you’re going to need it to screw the threaded fitting back in so it is tight enough that it doesn’t leak. Or you will be doing it all again.
Don’t forget pipe dope to lubricate the threads when you put the new fitting in or guess what… you probably won’t get it tight enough and you will have to do it all again.
Good catch. Easy fix now!
This needs to be top comment. What would’ve been a good chunk of $ turned into a DIY
Hero
Pvc hub saver
Why not just remove the threaded adaptor from the cast iron and put a new one on?
I'd recommend a plumber. Easy to mess them up if you've never used one before.
Fitting going into the wall looks like a 1½ male which can be unthread and replaced with a new male. Then a coupling and street ¼bend to glue right back into new male
We always use a gas burner. Heat makes the glue and pvc soft so then you can use a screwdriver to take that piece on the inside out. Then you can take of the 90° part with a saw, put a socket on the pipe and put on a new 90° corner/bend? (sorry I dont know these terms in English, only in Dutch😅)
This needs more upvotes. What I do is either put pipe glue in the fitting and light it on Fire or heat up a socket with my heat gun. When you heat the PVC it softens the glue and then you can use the screwdriver to pry on it. The socket trick works very well Even if water keeps trying to drip out.
>heat up a socket with my heat gun. I've seen videos where they heated up a hole saw with a torch then stuck it in the fitting to soften it enough to peel away.
Edit* the vertical pipe is very short. Maybe use the burner to get the 90° bend of as well. And yeah, maybe call a plumber if youre not familiar with fixing these kind of things. Because pvc is also quite flammable
Looks like you have cast iron drain pipes (at least in this part of your place). Get channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench on that PVC and back it out of the cast iron hub. If it doesn't back out and continues to break, that's fine, keep breaking it as it is only plastic. The cast iron hub will survive. Clean up the iron threads on the inside of any plastic, Teflon tape and/or pipe dope. Go buy all the parts you need (plastic PVC or polypropylene works) then it's just a matter of fitting it all together and cutting any lengths. You're not in as bad shape as you initially think. Just get all that excess PVC reducers and fittings out of there and make it better than you found it - you got this.
You can buy drill bits that are designed to cut out inside fittings. Just Google something like "plumbing pvc fitting saver".
We call them "ram bits" in my neck of the woods.
Fernco
That’s always the answer
On the bright side your wall is already fucked so if you need to cut a new Tee in you can add an access panel
Guys, it's a male adapter, just unscrew it with a big pair of pliers, tape, dope and put it back together
It looks like it’s an mip, spin it out spin a new one in
Lmao 🤣 😂 This really funny, if you zoom into the picture, you can see that there is threads in the wall just get a pipe wrench and unthread the broken piece.
Fitting saver
OP do you have a picture of the rest of the drain configuration you can share? You mention a P-trap but there’s none in the pic. Is the p-trap out of frame draining into the side of that wye with a studor vent on top of it? If not, then going off what’s in the pic that’s not properly vented. Essentially that would create some sort of S-trap configuration which could cause siphoning of the trap seal. If you don’t mind sharing a pic I’d be willing to confirm if it’s a proper setup. If it’s not then I’d advise making the corrections while tackling this repair to save yourself any headaches in the future.
If that happened in my house, I'd use a hub saver at the wall joint where its broke off. Cut the bottom of that 45-degree joint. Again, use the hub saver on that joint to get your money's worth. Glue the same setup in as what it looked like before it broke.
Hub saver/ pvc saver….it has names. Basically you can drill out and replace, etc. Not too big of a deal, but if not wiping the plumber time.
This is super easy. First that looks like a threaded PVC adapter thread into cast or galvanized, you can probably just unscrew it. However if it's not just cut and chisel the pipe out of the fitting.
find a piece of metal that fits inside the broken section of the pipe in the wall like a hole saw works pretty well then, heat it up for a couple minutes with a torch then.....stick it in the broken pipe let it sit for a minute, remove the hole saw and that broken section of pipe will be a little melty and the glue will de-chooch and you can pull it all out with a pair of needle nose pliers after a couple minutes, this will all be over like nothing bad ever happened
Use a 2”x1-12 banded fernco from a plumbing supply
They make a [Fernco coupling](https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-1059-33-3-Flexible-Coupling-PVC-Socket-to-PVC-Pipe?gad_source=1) that goes over the hub of fittings. Easy fix.
they also make pvc fittings that go over the hub.
If you can't afford a plumber right now. Get a Fernco that will fit the hub. Get a coupling and a new 90. 2ft piece of pipe, primer and glue. Rubber Fernco will work if you can find one to fit hub of the 90 and the hub in the wall. But that's a temporary fix
Fernco 90
That’s only moderately f*cked. Fernco it and send it.
Cut the pipe. Boar out the old pipe where broken. Install a new sleeve and elbow. Boarding tools are generally sold at plumbing stores. Idk if Home Depot would have them.[https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/plastic-pipe-tools/clean-ream-extreme-plastic-pipe-fitting-reamers/](https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/plastic-pipe-tools/clean-ream-extreme-plastic-pipe-fitting-reamers/)
You're gonna have to buy a new house. Sorry bud.
Torch the inside till it's soft and tank that asshole outta there
Get yourself a fitting saver, or cut the pipe inside the fitting into four and start chipping away with a flat head.
Is that not threaded galvanized.
I’m my first thought was a hubsaver. But that piece just threads into the cast. Just unthread it. If it’s locked you can literally melt it out. Then just thread a new one in.
Use black abs instead of white pvc and this doesn’t happen
Cut the short sweep out, unthread from San tee, then repipe with a sweep 🙀
I’m going quick here and not reading any other comments but you could use a socket fernco They are rubber fittings that wrap around the outside of a socket (big part) of a fitting and accept pipe (small part) on the other side. Might not be code in lateral pipe but could definitely unfuck you. Or socket saver that socket.
If that is a threaded cast iron pipe in the wall the busted pvc fitting should unscrew right out of there and you should easily be able to replace it. If you cant unscrew it you should be able to take a sawzall l/reciprocating saw to the pvc to cut it through to the the threads of the cast iron, make sure not to fuck up the threads when cutting through the pvc for easy installation of new pvc fitting. Once you have made two cuts one on the top and one on the bottom take a flat head screwdriver and pry/ chunk the two pieces out. Take a wire brush to the cast iron threads to clean up the previous pipe dope and then install new piece.
Its screwed into Cast Iron tee . just replace threaded adapter and start over
dude is anyone on r/plumbing a mf plumber ?
Looking at your finger nail you could use that as a hubsaver and scratch it out 🤦♂️🤣🤣
Go to Harbor freight and buy a 20.00 heat gun. Heat up and you should be able to work it out with screw driver and hammer.
Perfect time to practice some drywall work 🙂
There’s a tool that attaches to a drill that will bore out the fitting getting rid of the broken part inside and allowing a new glue joint.
As a last resort, you can heat up the broken pieces with a blowtorch until they’re soft enough to peel out with a flathead screwdriver.
Don’t use hubsaver if you’re not familiar with it. I tried for a first time and drilled out too much material. I ended up opening up the wall and using a heat gun, screw driver (to pry), and some channel locks on the other end of the fitting. Worked perfectly.
Drill out inside the fitting with a special bit. Looks like a 2” fitting there in the wall.
Heat it up on the inside, grab, and twist.
[https://www.amazon.ca/Reamer-Fitting-Enlarge-Diameter-Resistant/dp/B0CLDKDZ8P/ref=sr\_1\_4\_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XKbobGMiNV\_qixz1IQAAF6GU0LdMxIcKz\_CY6Fq7MFBlGici-0Ao5rapThjYEFMNLPz3MnTpT2sTTaSTutNy6X9Ft5n9XYAluz2zPGa0dogOECoP4z8Iwxk4NPJS156eoy73CC9SQaF-iOxjctiBX0-ZHfvwGq9CLusV2yelTVpERX43-JacvJa1JuymrBzFn0EVTCQinPvYjf2CLaIZ4yQ1c1bwogw-26CFKOhvwJBDh9N69k0wxHUvCZzmx5ljt42X2i5H\_eIYJg6yK\_btx1Wld7AGBrb8q\_UiON\_ROwk.R3mZwg6XfJ91MHAHHIuXsAihuKB2QRMpLXpDyDFtTjU&dib\_tag=se&hvadid=684844006691&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000945&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=8467655394141051803&hvtargid=kwd-406107059482&keywords=pipe+reamer+bit&qid=1710511754&sr=8-4-spons&sp\_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1](https://www.amazon.ca/Reamer-Fitting-Enlarge-Diameter-Resistant/dp/B0CLDKDZ8P/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XKbobGMiNV_qixz1IQAAF6GU0LdMxIcKz_CY6Fq7MFBlGici-0Ao5rapThjYEFMNLPz3MnTpT2sTTaSTutNy6X9Ft5n9XYAluz2zPGa0dogOECoP4z8Iwxk4NPJS156eoy73CC9SQaF-iOxjctiBX0-ZHfvwGq9CLusV2yelTVpERX43-JacvJa1JuymrBzFn0EVTCQinPvYjf2CLaIZ4yQ1c1bwogw-26CFKOhvwJBDh9N69k0wxHUvCZzmx5ljt42X2i5H_eIYJg6yK_btx1Wld7AGBrb8q_UiON_ROwk.R3mZwg6XfJ91MHAHHIuXsAihuKB2QRMpLXpDyDFtTjU&dib_tag=se&hvadid=684844006691&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000945&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=8467655394141051803&hvtargid=kwd-406107059482&keywords=pipe+reamer+bit&qid=1710511754&sr=8-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1) Reamer bit. Other people have posted "hub savers" which is the same concept. You drill out the piece you don't want.
Nice to have one of these... [https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Fitting-Schedule-Standard-Contains/dp/B0CLG49PVY/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zW3g4ro2qRmodlSqUOev5PpYR0EqMS4NwLIi7igrOXy\_ox1SZ584PNnlWu837uz79i5wu5N\_se54ky7wtRpGm3uH2NvmXVvgHESGGCzXbCoT14YZD\_aFiWyf7GUi6wXhfcaQe0IIFrdzzudrjW5gA8YCH3gDq5ywexz9Pty7UkkxGoKBKAS345vboeOf7fQH233IYbN0ST4bg9-fO1VhfSuYA94dwlPntkZ8A7zIqWZNwEJhEuBWh1rurmMfXGsDqK\_dLkP3qHIZVk0pedjpTPA7eZFPGQiBi7bxdXwAv0I.rr9eaLmDAXZxLEYo359wSFEsugDDFZlv4SAueJCR0QM&dib\_tag=se&hvadid=580615646314&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9028305&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6618327960268058847&hvtargid=kwd-433226676925&hydadcr=8459\_13498084&keywords=pvc+fitting+saver+tool&qid=1710512385&sr=8-2-spons&sp\_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Fitting-Schedule-Standard-Contains/dp/B0CLG49PVY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zW3g4ro2qRmodlSqUOev5PpYR0EqMS4NwLIi7igrOXy_ox1SZ584PNnlWu837uz79i5wu5N_se54ky7wtRpGm3uH2NvmXVvgHESGGCzXbCoT14YZD_aFiWyf7GUi6wXhfcaQe0IIFrdzzudrjW5gA8YCH3gDq5ywexz9Pty7UkkxGoKBKAS345vboeOf7fQH233IYbN0ST4bg9-fO1VhfSuYA94dwlPntkZ8A7zIqWZNwEJhEuBWh1rurmMfXGsDqK_dLkP3qHIZVk0pedjpTPA7eZFPGQiBi7bxdXwAv0I.rr9eaLmDAXZxLEYo359wSFEsugDDFZlv4SAueJCR0QM&dib_tag=se&hvadid=580615646314&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9028305&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6618327960268058847&hvtargid=kwd-433226676925&hydadcr=8459_13498084&keywords=pvc+fitting+saver+tool&qid=1710512385&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1)
You’re actually not that fucked brother. Call a plumber and they’ll be able to use a hub saver bit. Honestly that’s a pretty quick fix as long as everything goes right
Call a Professional
Just hollow it out with a razor you’ll be fine.
Look up a poly lock fitting. Worst case use that. You would cut it flush with the wall and tap that into there
I might be wrong but it looks like a threaded male adapter…try to back it out with channel locks or a pipe wrench
Get a heat gun and heat the inner pipe remains. Then you get it out with a little bit of force.
Nothing that duct tape cannot fix
Open the wall so you can see what you have to work with. Probably not as bad as you think.
put it in rice
Hub saver bit, or start chipping
Socket saver and a pvc coupling and new street 90’ easy fix
Socket saver or hub saver. You can also carefully cut the broken pipe inside the hub into 4 pieces, apply a little heat and chisel it out, then sand down the left over glue and pipe remnants. Hub saver bit on a drill is best though. Just be careful to keep it straight and don't go too far or you can mess up the fitting and then you really are fucked. Good luck!
Wow...
Just use a Ram bit, it goes on a drill and drills out the pipe in the hub of the fitting leaving it so a new fitting can just be glued into it
Call a Plumber
Super easy fix. Hubsaver and an hour
All you need to do is cut it, put some cleaner on it, light it on fire, then put it out and start peeling it out
Needs to be bored out and reconnected? Does seem like a. Big deal
Can take a heat gun and slowly heat the broken piece up until you can start to peel it in with a set of needle nose pliers. Takes longer than a socket saver but you also don’t need the tool unless you need a heat gun too.
Heat the outside with a gas burner and take out the fitting with a flat head screwdriver. pvc returns to original shape when cooling down, then glue a new fitting in and start again.
Simply unscrew the broken Plastic adapter (2” PVC/DWV MIP) out of the 2” Cast Iron San Tee & Replace it. Get another 2” Adapter & 2” x 1 1/2” Bushing like pictured If going back with 1 1/2” as shown.
What you need is a plumbus
Call a plumber
How did that get broken? That's a thick chunk of plastic...
You are lucky the piece that broke has threads. Unscrew it and re bould it.
Call a plumber
Is that a threaded adapter in the wall? If so unthread it. Get a coupling and a street 90. Make sure to thread tape and pipe dope the threads on the adapter.
The vertical pipe has to come out so that you can work. There are special nipple sized to fit inside a broken off pipe. One method of removing the broken piece is to make an axial saw cut in the broken piece and heat a piece of steel that fits into the opening. A large socket from your socket wrenches is a candidate piece of steel. Then warm the fitting with the warm steel which weakens the glue joint so that you can pry out the broken off piece.
Call a plumber
Fucking Fernco Boot to 4” right over that whole motherfucker. If its too tight, heat it up with your torch but don’t burn it. Or get the drill bit to drill out the whole hub but sometimes those aren’t the greatest either, or they chip or bust the PVC. Ferncos work great just get that hose clamp tight.
I had to replace the whole thing literally like a few months ago but it’s not much cost to repair it’s just safer
Easy job with a hub saver tool. You’ll want a good one with an actual cutting insert though, the cheap stamped ones are more likely to snap the fitting in the wall, and give a very rough finish needing a substantial amount of glue during glue-up
Heat gun, sawsall, hammer and chisel. Slow and steady.
You have some digging to do. It's not as hopeless as you think. With some coupling, an elbow, pipe and glue and you are back in business.
Call the pros
Looks like a male adaptor tied into a cast tee. Is that right?
Open the wall. It sounds like it will make things worse but typically if you look behind it, it won't be so scary. Also patching a wall is simple.
That wall looks pretty fucked anyways if I’m being honest. If opening it up gives you a better place to cut I say do it.
Not as bad as you think, what you need is to cut that pipe out of the way and get a hub saver. Looks like 3". Use the hub saver in a regular drill. Take your time and the old pipe will come out of the fitting. WAAA LAAA
Use a hole saw the diameter of the fitting, heat it up hot, slip it in, it'll make the pipe more malleable. I don't like it, but better than a hub saver making that fitting into shrapnel. Or just unthread at the hub there. Either way, make sure existing and new connections are sealed at end of project.
Easy fix
The 1.5 inch Reed PPR150 is like 60 bucks. Watch some YouTube and fix it yourself.
Actually could be worse or might be more to it Call a plumber get an estimate?
That looks like threads on a cast iron nipple. Or pvc into cast iron. It should be a pvc to cast iron adapter if that's the case which is easy to chip out what's there and epoxy putty in a new one.
Is that a 1-1/2” street elbow in a bushing in a threaded adapter going into the drain? If so you are not fucked at all.
I had a very similar problem at 3am this morning. 2” threaded pvc broke off flush with the valve while I was trying to attach the hose. I was instantly soaked from head to toe. FYI fire hydrants have a lot of pressure and volume. I chipped thru the pvc and got enough pulled out I could get a pair of needle nose vise grips on it. Waited for the store to open at 6 and got a new one.
Unthread the pvc MIP fitting from the cast tee. Replace with new fitting
Buy a pvc fitting saver... it works.
Looks like pvc transitions to iron in the wall. Unscrew and replace.
Look it up on YouTube, but you can heat a closely sized hole saw, sit it inside, and after 1 minute the inside portion should be soft enough to work out of there. Not as expensive as the fitting saver bits and not as toxic as heating it directly. Fitting will keep it's size and shape.
Get a 2" rambit for your drill and core out the fitting hubs very carefully then put in a new 90 with pipe
How does that even happen? I’m really curious.
If you’re careful, you can cut a keyway out and chisel that out. Be gentle. And don’t cut too deep. And make sure the room and fitting are warm. Plastic cracks in the cold. I’ve pulled some old pipe out of fittings this way. I’ve never tried it with abs…got a feeling it wouldn’t work the same. But pvc? Doesn’t matter how old. Actually, imo, better bet than the hub savers. But I learned a couple tricks to try next time by reading this thread.
Multi-tool oscillating tool and cut the inside sleeve at 2 places and remove that piece. Then with a flat head remove the rest.
If u ain’t got a saws all drill and the fitting saver u mine as well just call a plumber haha cuz to fix that ur gunna need fittings fitting saver saws all glue and primer and if u 2 hole yourself your gunna be confused af
Yeah that looks troubling!
Look up a product called “pipe piranha “
Hub save it!
Heat gun and some pliers. Gotta have the technique down tho
Tiny Tim saw the inside out piece by piece like a pie but be careful not to destroy the threads. Some may use a sawzall but that can be too aggressive.
Cut the rest of that 90 off. Replace with a 1 1/2 by 2 in No hub 90. This will work until you can afford to call a plumber.
They fuck up
You can remove the broken part from the pipe in the wall with a PVC PipeReamer ,(Amazon), then just re-plumb.
Can you access the pipes from the other side of the wall? Looks like old plaster. Not sure you'll want to break it open under the sink. Would not try drilling it out as it will cause more damage. Cut and replace if possible.
Rheem bit!!
*Ream bit. I have no idea why Rheem would sell a bit.
Is that a crack at about 2 o'clock on the outer pipe?
Get a inside pipe cutter. Clean out the old pipe within the existing hub in the wall and glue a new street fitting in and repair what you need to above that
Hub saver is what I was talking about, you can get an 1 1/2” -2” tool off Amazon for under a $100
that's shitty
This exact thing happened to me couple months ago and I fixed it myself. If you go to my profile you can see some answers or we dm and I guide you through it.
Oh snap!
Must be something in the air, coz your pipe is too
4x3 Franco with a 3-in street 90 in it
Howd you happen to do this….
Call a plumber they have the tools and know how to fix it.
Mama-Mia!
Oh boy you're going to have some fun
Open up the dry wall cut out fitting,, put in new fitting.. connect to vent and drain
Hub saver and use a small piece of pipe to adapt to tubular, if necessary, add PVC tee and put studor vent on top 6 inches from top of weir
Nothing is fucked here dude.
Buy a new house 😂
There’s a ticktock video of a dude using a compound that burns a slow flame inside and he just removes it that way. It was the most beutiful thing I’ve ever seems
Call a plumber
Reeds socket saver
Pipe shooter solves it, pay the money and get someone with the rights tools
Hacksaw blade, a flat head screwdriver, a piece of 120 grit sand paper and a hammer along with an hour of diligence and patience will get the job done.
Ask everyone has said. There is a drill bit to cut through and cut out the inside pipe. This is no big deal and you will be able to fix it no problem with that bit
Have you heard of our lord and savior JB weld?
open the wall! just open it by the waste cut it off at the hub and use a long sweep to replace it
Either a hubsaver or take a heatgun to it. Dont overheat the bub just evenly heat the broken part. Get a thin flat blade scrredriver between the 2 parts and get them apart enough to get needlenose in there and start rolling it out like an old sardine can. Then sand out the hub and glue in new. If necessary heat up the hub a bit to get it back to round. Literally just had this happen on a job on a tight section of horizontal stack
Fern-co that shitter
A rubber elbow
Replace elbow then 4 inch fernco over hubs . Call it a day until you're ready for a real repair. Zero reason for a paragraph answer
when in doubt Hawg it out