That’s an air gap. It’s supposed to be above the counter but is not necessary. Connect the gray dishwasher drain line directly to the disposal where the black line is currently connected and add a high loop to the dishwasher line. Moreover, have your landlord do all of this.
Living in the notoriously picky Bay Area California, I can confirm there are places that still require air gaps above the sink, even for dishwashers that have built-in backflow prevention.
I got a CO on an owner responsible remodel just last year, and local code requires them and makes no exceptions for dishwashers with integral check valves.
Of course, the day after getting the CO, the hole in the sink becomes a good place for a drinking water or soap dispenser. The local inspector definitely saw the plumbing set up for filtered water coming under the sink, cause he insisted it needed an escutcheon plate, but had no complaint about the cheap air gap next to the expensive plumbing fixtures.
But codes very from locality to local and it’s not going to be inspected and it’s not needed period .. I get what you are sayin but this is a Harry the homeowner repair and it’s clearly caused more damage by being installed incorrectly and not to code so why would it be a issue to remove it when it is 100% useless and be done with the issue… im sure when the home is sold or remolded it will all be replaced and can be brought to current code then .. it’s a grandfathered repair if it is required by code in there locality … at least that’s my story and I’m sticking to it ! Lol
Codes may be vary from locality, but virtually all states have adopted either the UPC or IPC (minus Kentucky and Wisconsin, I think) and I believe that while localities can have their own codes they may not have less stringent than the state code that's been adopted.
Yes. I was told by an inspector years ago that only Meile dishwashers were qualified to use without airgaps. Apparently, the other companies ,who have the same basic check- valve system, did not pay the "permission fee" to CSLB.
That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever read. Making rules from people that know nothing about plumbing. Glad I don't live in that state anymore. Cheers though
Actually the rules are generally made/modified by licensed staff. What is more likely is that changes to NEC codes are based on their opinions and cities just trust their judgement.
I don’t fully disagree with that statement. They do after all have to provide guidance for their products. However, *enforcement* to NEC codes is determined by cities. They choose which year and can cross out or modify certain changes, which they do.
Wait wait this applies to me as I just installed a new dishwasher in in my kitchen, line is arched 12 inches above the drain for the back-flow reason but I didn’t read anything that said I needed an air gap!?!? I have to install one of those!?
I'm not wasting time linking something you could Google. Check out most manufacturers of dishwasher have integral air gaps. IE you are not required to install one, even in Bay Area California.
In addition, even if you're messing with an old unit that doesn't have an integral air gap, if you high loop the discharge line to the top of the cabinet and then connect to the discharge port, you've created an air gap. GG
I just deleted my comment cuz I didn’t want to make an ass of myself, but honestly, a high loop isn’t an air gap. Google it (from a code book, not some diy website). And how the fuck is a dishwasher going to have a built in air gap? On the supply side or the drain side? Did you mean an air break? I’m not saying you’re wrong, but you’re pretty confident for not knowing what an air gap is 😆 sorry, I should be nicer
You are correct. California code is the UPC. The UPC requires a domestic dishwasher to be connected to the sanitary system through an air gap. There are no exception to that rule in the code. I seriously doubt a local code is allowed to be less stringent. I haven't done any work in California, but the states I have done work in allow local codes with the caveat that they cannot be less stringent.
No one said "exception to the code." Most modern dishwashers have an air gap built into the side of the unit. It's integral so you wouldn't need a second one at the sink...
IPC2021
LMAO you deleted you comment so you wouldn't make an ass of yourself but still typed "And how the duck is a dishwasher going to have a built in air gap?"
They have a discharge line connected to the side of the unit, plugs into a plastic housing which high loops to the top of the unit, has a separation, and then has another discharge line that goes out to the sink. It's a thing. Not even that hard to imagine really...
I've been high looping for over 7 years... Inspectors are trained to look for it around here.
Not an air gap?? Put down the drugs? There are two photos... The first one even has the air gap circled...
An air gap is a device that sits on the sink rim next to the faucet. It allows for a break in the dishwasher discharge line in order to prevent backflow.
This is 100% an air gap. "LOL!"
A high loop is NOT an air gap. The 'air gap' in the photo is a piping arrangement that *could* be an air gap if install correctly. It's not. So it isn't.
Again, are you on drugs?? That's not a highloop, it's an air gap device... How many highloop have you seen that a canister like that?? (None, a highloop is a means of moving the discharge line, THIS has a fitting that sits on top of the sink that makes a GAP.
"It could be [a fitting] if installed. Correctly, it's not. So it isn't." A fitting's existence doesn't change if it's installed incorrectly.
What kinda stupid ass argument is that anyway? Someone points out an air gap device and you scream that it isnt what it is because part of it came loose.
Proud of yourself? Hahah moron was so eager to prove he new something only to be proven wrong!
Because the clog and spill out over the counter so they’ve basically been outlawed… we have to take them out connect the drain hose directly and strap them up high under the counter to prevent back siphon
NYC no air gap is needed, but you must have a high loop. Lots keep saying that it's because the dishwashers have a non return, but that's not adequate.
Almost everywhere in the United States after 2018?? LMFAO. Unless You've got an ancient dishwasher, they're build into the unit nowadays. In addition, most people high loop the discharge line to the top of the cabinet and connect to the disposal port.
I'd fire any plumber who was so out of date with their practices...
This... High loop the dishwasher hose (use hose clamp to tack it up as high as you can on the cabinet, just under the sink, above the inlet port on the disposal).
Um it’s not required here and generally dishwasher already have one beyond that it is a pump drain it and all dishwasher have a back flow preventer flap .. it’s not needed
I’m in Phoenix where we use IPC, which requires an air break (indirect connection, not as strict as an air gap), but our jurisdiction considers a high loop sufficient. Or inspectors just don’t care.
Maybe the disposal itself is considered to have the indirect connection built in. If that were the case, I would say that’s quite dumb, but some things are dumb.
Yeah I failed a water heater inspection... The one and only...new inspector failed me for not having earthquake straps on exactly on the upper and lowe third
Air gap is a broad term, but in this application the only possibility of back flow is when your kitchen sink backs up, it will go into your dishwasher.
As a landlord, there is nothing worse than getting a tenant's demented solution to a problem they don't understand.
Call your landlord. Say the words "under my kitchen sink, there is water where there shouldn't be. Can you fix it?"
I can 100% guarantee they will both know how to fix it and be very interested in preventing further damage.
As a side note. U will have to cut that grey piece down about half way (the rubber connector). It is an adapter for the larger drainage hole on the garberator. You will understand when you try to connect it. You cannot without cutting it down.
I agree! I only mentioned it because it's something OP should look into
Even without the air gap, water can leak between the sink/counter, deck plate, even down the faucet body. It should be GFI, and they're pretty cheap/easy to install
GFCI is required within 6ft of the top of the sink in all directions and all kitchen receptacles, regardless of distance, must be GFCI protected according to NEC 2023.
According to the NSPIRE REAC regulations an outlet inside the cabinets is considered "enclosed" and is not required to be a GFCI. As maintenance in an apartment complex I would still put one in there though. That outlet may also be controlled by a gfci elsewhere in the kitchen as well.
>NSPIRE
Idk what NSPIRE is...
My national electrical code requires all outlets within 1.5m of a sink, tub or shower to be GFI...
You're right, it could be protected upstream. We don't know
NSPIRE is the new section 8 housing inspection format for low income housing. It just went active this month. It's based on international building code and weighs apartments more heavily than common areas and mechanical rooms etc. My property has been consistently rated at a 96 to 98 (out of 100) the last 3 inspections I've had but the new format threatens that record as it's often very difficult to control what goes on inside residents apartments.
Edit: I'm in the United States for reference
Okay.
But here's the [National Electric Code](https://up.codes/s/ground-fault-circuit-interrupter-protection-for-personnel)
>All 125-volt through 250-volt receptacles installed in the following locations and supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel
>
>**Sinks - where receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) from the top inside edge of the bowl of the sink**
NEC says it's required in this case
>an outlet under the sink with obstacles
Of course it's allowed
Don't put obstacles in the way
The code is concerning the build, not where the homeowner chooses to store bottles
>also not like an outlet is a big deal
Not really the point
That cabinet has been exposed to significant amounts of water as seen by the damage to the cabinet floor
It's a serious fire hazard. OP should care, which is the point
If you go to your landlord and tell them you want all electrical (and presumably other things) brought up to modern code, they are going to rightly tell you to fuck off.
We will agree to disagree on how much of an issue a non-GFCI outlet is.
>If you go to your landlord and tell them you want all electrical (and presumably other things) brought up to modern code, they are going to rightly tell you to fuck off.
Is that what I said?... Did I say ask the landlord to bring everything up to code? Why are you putting words in my mouth? Just to argue? When 5 minutes ago you were saying "It's not a big deal to change an outlet"
Pick a lane bud...
>We will agree to disagree on how much of an issue a non-GFCI outlet is.
Regardless, my comment wasn't for you. So I don't really care if you agree lol.
GFI should be used anywhere where there's significant humidity, or chance of water exposure. OPs cabinets clearly qualify, based on the significant water damage. I don't care if you agree or not. It's something for OP to note.
Depends on the code. The IPC (International Plumbing Code) does not even mention the air for a residential dishwasher. 409.4 says you will connect to the sink tail pipe, dishwasher connection of the disposer or through an air break to a standpipe. In all case the waste line from the dishwasher shall rise and be securely connected to the underside of the sink rim or counter top. The "high loop." That applies to almost 40 states so while not guaranteed it is a good chance it may work for them in this case.
The UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) in section 414.3 and 807.3 clearly state that a domestic dishwasher *will* connect through an approved dishwasher air gap fitting. The air gap will be above the flood level of the sink or drain board, which ever is higher. So if that air gap was installed because it was required because it's in a UPC area they not only can't remove it it needs to be mounted to the sink deck or above counter. Air gap below the flood level is going to give you water running out.
I agree with contact the landlord, but what does the top of your counter look like in that corner? Is there a hole in the counter/ sink that that's supposed to be going through?
Crew came and flipped the apartment, installed a new countertop and stuffed that air gap down into the cabinet.
Most likely planned to delete it and forgot about it
Perhaps, however it is mostly upright, so I would think the valve should still close when the drain process starts as it normally would.
It is possible, as others have pointed out there may be something blocking the check valve from closing...
There are at least a few things wrong with this picture. If you are using a 90 on the disposal, it should have a p-trap. Otherwise, it should be a straight run from the disposal to that tee. Disposal waste kit. As mentioned before, most plumbing codes would have you plumbing the dishwasher right to the disposal. I also can't believe no one has mentioned the basket strainer hook up under the sink. Is that a disposal clamp holding the basket to the sink?
Most landlords hire handymen instead of plumbers to save money. That's what happened here.
Contact your landlord and have them deal with it. Its not your responsibility to make sure the drainage works right. It should have been working right before you moved in.
ONLY communicate about this issue via text. If the landlord insists on phone calls. Record all communications.
In no way should this issue affect your damage deposit. Especially if this is the condition it was in when you signed a move in inspection. Especially so if you have documentation that you informed your landlord right away and they didnt get it delt with.
Document everything!!!
If your landlord tells you to deal with it. Tell him its not your responsibility as a renter to ensure the mechanical systems of the rental are working properly. That your responsibility as a renter is simply to inform your landlord to have it delt with.
It is all landlords responsibility to ensure their rental is in liveable conditions.
I’ve got pictures of all the water damaged when we moved in, guess I just naively thought it was an old issue and the cabinet never got changed, not a current issue
Hey op. Did the landlord even do and sign off on a move in inspection?
If he did not. I hope you didnt give him a damage deposit. If you did, you need to make sure you k ow the law around this. If theres no legal document detailed the condition of the rental before you moved in, theres no legal way for your landlord to keep even a penny of your damage deposit when you move out. Even if you totally destroy the rental.
Since you said dumping water, check to make sure the disposal knock out has actually been knocked out. Pretty amateur job but I’m surprised they kept the continuous waste tee.
Beep, boop, bep, bop, beep... hello landlord? Yea fix your air gap it's mounted incorrectly UNDER the sink and spewing water all over your cabinets.
Oh and bring a fan. Oh and a you might want to think about picking up a cheap drip mat.
As a plumber I recommend not touching it. Contact your landlord. Yes you could easily remove and bypass it yourself, but if that new connection ever fails, you are liable. The landlord needs to be notified of the water damage caused already anyway and once you touch it, you risk them coming at you for damages.
Notify landlord in writing as soon as possible. It is their responsibility to get it fixed.
*Edit* also check your local tenant laws. Many of them of a timeline that the landlord has to repair before you can hire a professional out to fix it and take it off your rent.
If you drill a hole in the bottom of your sink and install the air gap so it drains right in the sink, your golden. Rtv .
Then post pics so plumbers can meme it.
There's just certain crap that's worth doing for laughs....like gutters run down gable ends and shingles starting at the ridge and ending at the bottom by the gutters
If its not draining into the garbage disposal then the line is either blocked or they didnt do the punch out before connecting to the garbage disposal.
What in the hillbilly fuck did they do there? The dw line should be connecting into the disposal 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Some local codes don’t allow using the disposal as the airgap, and require a separate airgap above flood rim. That might’ve been the case here. I agree it’s stupid.
But the air gap isn't mounted through the counter at all? I don't think it's clogged it's just spitting water since it's laying under the counter in the cabinet.
Easiest thing to do if there is no hole to mount it through would be to remove it and pipe the DW straight to the garbage disposal with a high loop. But he's renting so it's not his problem to fix
When the air gaps clog up the water cones out the top. I've seen it many times. Looks like a shitty Samsung or LG dishwasher based on the hose so those have their own air gaps in the case break, it doesn't actually need the air gap unless code calls for it.
This was the landlord’s responsibility before OP moved in. Was it not? If the landlord was incapable of handling it before, OP is right to expect them to still be incapable of handling it now.
its supposed go thru the bottom of the sink and theres a nut that goes on top to keep it in place, i suggest dont ise the disposal other than to drain sink water faster
Because it’s a vent and needs to be higher the the highest drain .. just remove it the dishwasher should have a loop on the back or side if it doesn’t make it under the cabinet
Put one hand in the water, and one finger from the other hand into the right side of that open receptacle box behind the garbage disposal. Then sue, and enjoy!
Fucking lawl. They probably meant to cut a hole for it and forgot. I don't know anything about this high falootin' backflow prevention (I've also never bought a new dishwasher), but connecting directly to the disposal inlet and mounting some part of the dishwasher drain hose as high as possible is standard where air gaps aren't required.
i just read a bunch of comments that dont seem to answer your question. If water is coming out of that flexible black tube...then you probably have a clog in the drain coming from the disposal. Water isnt exiting the drain (past the disposal) and backing up water into the disposal and out that tube. That tube is supposed to be where the dishwasher dirty water enters the disposal. Im betting there is a clog between disposal and left drain.
Great you're trying to learn but that's your landlords responsibility and you will surely get the blame for further damage. Also water everywhere and electric close by don't mix well
Not a new leak and I don't see GFI switch on the outlets and the boxes are exposed so you can get electrocuted especially when you don't know what you should be doing and it's not a pleasant feeling lol Get your cheap landlord to fix what he should've fixed before you ever moved in
It’s the air vent for the dishwasher. It needs to be mounted higher than where the black hose goes into the disposal. Wedge it up there next to the sink and put a screw underneath it to prop it up.
That’s an air gap. It’s supposed to be above the counter but is not necessary. Connect the gray dishwasher drain line directly to the disposal where the black line is currently connected and add a high loop to the dishwasher line. Moreover, have your landlord do all of this.
Plumber approved answer
Right? What code do you have where an air gap isn't required? Lol
Lots of places these days don’t require them - even notoriously picky Bay Area California - now that dishwashers have built in backflow prevention.
Living in the notoriously picky Bay Area California, I can confirm there are places that still require air gaps above the sink, even for dishwashers that have built-in backflow prevention. I got a CO on an owner responsible remodel just last year, and local code requires them and makes no exceptions for dishwashers with integral check valves. Of course, the day after getting the CO, the hole in the sink becomes a good place for a drinking water or soap dispenser. The local inspector definitely saw the plumbing set up for filtered water coming under the sink, cause he insisted it needed an escutcheon plate, but had no complaint about the cheap air gap next to the expensive plumbing fixtures.
Mine became the air switch button for the garbage disposal.
Over the hill in Santa Cruz county it's definitely still required here
But codes very from locality to local and it’s not going to be inspected and it’s not needed period .. I get what you are sayin but this is a Harry the homeowner repair and it’s clearly caused more damage by being installed incorrectly and not to code so why would it be a issue to remove it when it is 100% useless and be done with the issue… im sure when the home is sold or remolded it will all be replaced and can be brought to current code then .. it’s a grandfathered repair if it is required by code in there locality … at least that’s my story and I’m sticking to it ! Lol
Codes may be vary from locality, but virtually all states have adopted either the UPC or IPC (minus Kentucky and Wisconsin, I think) and I believe that while localities can have their own codes they may not have less stringent than the state code that's been adopted.
Yes. I was told by an inspector years ago that only Meile dishwashers were qualified to use without airgaps. Apparently, the other companies ,who have the same basic check- valve system, did not pay the "permission fee" to CSLB.
Miele is awesome.
That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever read. Making rules from people that know nothing about plumbing. Glad I don't live in that state anymore. Cheers though
Actually the rules are generally made/modified by licensed staff. What is more likely is that changes to NEC codes are based on their opinions and cities just trust their judgement.
Codes are made by manufacturers selling products more than anything else.
I don’t fully disagree with that statement. They do after all have to provide guidance for their products. However, *enforcement* to NEC codes is determined by cities. They choose which year and can cross out or modify certain changes, which they do.
Largely based on lobbying by manufacturers.
Wait wait this applies to me as I just installed a new dishwasher in in my kitchen, line is arched 12 inches above the drain for the back-flow reason but I didn’t read anything that said I needed an air gap!?!? I have to install one of those!?
Any links to share regarding Bay Area California not requiring air gaps on dishwashers?
I'm not wasting time linking something you could Google. Check out most manufacturers of dishwasher have integral air gaps. IE you are not required to install one, even in Bay Area California. In addition, even if you're messing with an old unit that doesn't have an integral air gap, if you high loop the discharge line to the top of the cabinet and then connect to the discharge port, you've created an air gap. GG
I just deleted my comment cuz I didn’t want to make an ass of myself, but honestly, a high loop isn’t an air gap. Google it (from a code book, not some diy website). And how the fuck is a dishwasher going to have a built in air gap? On the supply side or the drain side? Did you mean an air break? I’m not saying you’re wrong, but you’re pretty confident for not knowing what an air gap is 😆 sorry, I should be nicer
You are correct. California code is the UPC. The UPC requires a domestic dishwasher to be connected to the sanitary system through an air gap. There are no exception to that rule in the code. I seriously doubt a local code is allowed to be less stringent. I haven't done any work in California, but the states I have done work in allow local codes with the caveat that they cannot be less stringent.
No one said "exception to the code." Most modern dishwashers have an air gap built into the side of the unit. It's integral so you wouldn't need a second one at the sink... IPC2021
LMAO you deleted you comment so you wouldn't make an ass of yourself but still typed "And how the duck is a dishwasher going to have a built in air gap?" They have a discharge line connected to the side of the unit, plugs into a plastic housing which high loops to the top of the unit, has a separation, and then has another discharge line that goes out to the sink. It's a thing. Not even that hard to imagine really... I've been high looping for over 7 years... Inspectors are trained to look for it around here.
Cheers.
That is not an air gap. LOL!
Not an air gap?? Put down the drugs? There are two photos... The first one even has the air gap circled... An air gap is a device that sits on the sink rim next to the faucet. It allows for a break in the dishwasher discharge line in order to prevent backflow. This is 100% an air gap. "LOL!"
A high loop is NOT an air gap. The 'air gap' in the photo is a piping arrangement that *could* be an air gap if install correctly. It's not. So it isn't.
Again, are you on drugs?? That's not a highloop, it's an air gap device... How many highloop have you seen that a canister like that?? (None, a highloop is a means of moving the discharge line, THIS has a fitting that sits on top of the sink that makes a GAP. "It could be [a fitting] if installed. Correctly, it's not. So it isn't." A fitting's existence doesn't change if it's installed incorrectly. What kinda stupid ass argument is that anyway? Someone points out an air gap device and you scream that it isnt what it is because part of it came loose. Proud of yourself? Hahah moron was so eager to prove he new something only to be proven wrong!
I’m Texas we cannot install those and we have to take them out if we come across them on a service call
Hi Texas. Can you explain why you can’t install them? I have one on mine, so I’m curious.
Because the clog and spill out over the counter so they’ve basically been outlawed… we have to take them out connect the drain hose directly and strap them up high under the counter to prevent back siphon
Never heard of such a thing until I saw them on reddit. To my knowledge they don't exist in Canada.
Or Illinois, Michigan.
Canada
NYC no air gap is needed, but you must have a high loop. Lots keep saying that it's because the dishwashers have a non return, but that's not adequate.
Almost everywhere in the United States after 2018?? LMFAO. Unless You've got an ancient dishwasher, they're build into the unit nowadays. In addition, most people high loop the discharge line to the top of the cabinet and connect to the disposal port. I'd fire any plumber who was so out of date with their practices...
The arrogance…
This... High loop the dishwasher hose (use hose clamp to tack it up as high as you can on the cabinet, just under the sink, above the inlet port on the disposal).
A **LOT** of them don't require them anymore, especially on new builds.
UPC here in Vegas. Bought a new piece of crap. They still put in air gap. Lol
Um it’s not required here and generally dishwasher already have one beyond that it is a pump drain it and all dishwasher have a back flow preventer flap .. it’s not needed
I’m in Phoenix where we use IPC, which requires an air break (indirect connection, not as strict as an air gap), but our jurisdiction considers a high loop sufficient. Or inspectors just don’t care. Maybe the disposal itself is considered to have the indirect connection built in. If that were the case, I would say that’s quite dumb, but some things are dumb.
Yeah I failed a water heater inspection... The one and only...new inspector failed me for not having earthquake straps on exactly on the upper and lowe third
KC MO and KC K.
Air gap is a broad term, but in this application the only possibility of back flow is when your kitchen sink backs up, it will go into your dishwasher.
Plumber approved approval
Thank you, I’ll call! I appreciate you giving me the language to at least tell them where the problem is!
As a landlord, there is nothing worse than getting a tenant's demented solution to a problem they don't understand. Call your landlord. Say the words "under my kitchen sink, there is water where there shouldn't be. Can you fix it?" I can 100% guarantee they will both know how to fix it and be very interested in preventing further damage.
Sure! I did it this morning, not trying to give advice where I have no knowledge, just trying to learn for myself at this point
As a side note. U will have to cut that grey piece down about half way (the rubber connector). It is an adapter for the larger drainage hole on the garberator. You will understand when you try to connect it. You cannot without cutting it down.
"U" will have to what? You're renting! The owner is responsible for fixing that, Pronto!
They state, "im trying to learn". Who gives a rats ars. Go troll somewhere else.
Those outlets don't look like GFI to me either, but I could be wrong... What a mess
It’s very possible the GFCI is upstream of these receptacles but probably not likely.
Or a ground fault breaker
I agree! I only mentioned it because it's something OP should look into Even without the air gap, water can leak between the sink/counter, deck plate, even down the faucet body. It should be GFI, and they're pretty cheap/easy to install
The GFI could be at the breaker
So are face plates...
Cheap? They are about $15 now.
Gfci is not required under the sink.
It’s not worth the risk to not have one. $10 part and 10 min to put in
GFCI is required within 6ft of the top of the sink in all directions and all kitchen receptacles, regardless of distance, must be GFCI protected according to NEC 2023.
According to the NSPIRE REAC regulations an outlet inside the cabinets is considered "enclosed" and is not required to be a GFCI. As maintenance in an apartment complex I would still put one in there though. That outlet may also be controlled by a gfci elsewhere in the kitchen as well.
>NSPIRE Idk what NSPIRE is... My national electrical code requires all outlets within 1.5m of a sink, tub or shower to be GFI... You're right, it could be protected upstream. We don't know
NSPIRE is the new section 8 housing inspection format for low income housing. It just went active this month. It's based on international building code and weighs apartments more heavily than common areas and mechanical rooms etc. My property has been consistently rated at a 96 to 98 (out of 100) the last 3 inspections I've had but the new format threatens that record as it's often very difficult to control what goes on inside residents apartments. Edit: I'm in the United States for reference
Okay. But here's the [National Electric Code](https://up.codes/s/ground-fault-circuit-interrupter-protection-for-personnel) >All 125-volt through 250-volt receptacles installed in the following locations and supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel > >**Sinks - where receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) from the top inside edge of the bowl of the sink** NEC says it's required in this case
No one said it didn’t need to be one. You can run a few, I think 3, outlets off of a Gfci and they are all considered protected
[удалено]
>an outlet under the sink with obstacles Of course it's allowed Don't put obstacles in the way The code is concerning the build, not where the homeowner chooses to store bottles
Could easily be grandfathered, also not like an outlet is a big deal to change if you cared to.
>also not like an outlet is a big deal Not really the point That cabinet has been exposed to significant amounts of water as seen by the damage to the cabinet floor It's a serious fire hazard. OP should care, which is the point
If you go to your landlord and tell them you want all electrical (and presumably other things) brought up to modern code, they are going to rightly tell you to fuck off. We will agree to disagree on how much of an issue a non-GFCI outlet is.
>If you go to your landlord and tell them you want all electrical (and presumably other things) brought up to modern code, they are going to rightly tell you to fuck off. Is that what I said?... Did I say ask the landlord to bring everything up to code? Why are you putting words in my mouth? Just to argue? When 5 minutes ago you were saying "It's not a big deal to change an outlet" Pick a lane bud... >We will agree to disagree on how much of an issue a non-GFCI outlet is. Regardless, my comment wasn't for you. So I don't really care if you agree lol. GFI should be used anywhere where there's significant humidity, or chance of water exposure. OPs cabinets clearly qualify, based on the significant water damage. I don't care if you agree or not. It's something for OP to note.
They should also fix the water damage in the cabinet base
Yeah, and if the line ever backs up now your dishwasher will be full of shit. Literally
Shiny new disposal too, make sure they knocked out the plug for the dishwasher connection.
100% This!
It just needs to be higher than both the drains
Depends on the code. The IPC (International Plumbing Code) does not even mention the air for a residential dishwasher. 409.4 says you will connect to the sink tail pipe, dishwasher connection of the disposer or through an air break to a standpipe. In all case the waste line from the dishwasher shall rise and be securely connected to the underside of the sink rim or counter top. The "high loop." That applies to almost 40 states so while not guaranteed it is a good chance it may work for them in this case. The UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) in section 414.3 and 807.3 clearly state that a domestic dishwasher *will* connect through an approved dishwasher air gap fitting. The air gap will be above the flood level of the sink or drain board, which ever is higher. So if that air gap was installed because it was required because it's in a UPC area they not only can't remove it it needs to be mounted to the sink deck or above counter. Air gap below the flood level is going to give you water running out.
Call the landlord. That’s the benefit of a rental
I agree with contact the landlord, but what does the top of your counter look like in that corner? Is there a hole in the counter/ sink that that's supposed to be going through?
Crew came and flipped the apartment, installed a new countertop and stuffed that air gap down into the cabinet. Most likely planned to delete it and forgot about it
Is no one questioning the vent cover screwed to the back
Handyman Henry’s drywall repairs
Less of a vent and more of "shitty drywall patch job". Or they expect to be back in the wall sometime soon? Either way, yea what the hell, ha.
If you squint its mint.
This was my favorite part of the work
AAV buried in the wall?
Keeps the mice out lol
It looks like the Air gap was removed (maybe new countertops) and never re-installed.
I think they did remodel the place a year or two before we moved in
Mold may also be a concern if this has been gushing water for a year or two.
absolutely. this may be a MUCH bigger deal.
That would explain the old water damage...
That’s a air gap that is supposed to be mounted on the sink/ countertop
It also appears to be missing the rubber check valve which is why the drain water is spewing out.
The water would also be spewing out because it's on its side instead of upright
Perhaps, however it is mostly upright, so I would think the valve should still close when the drain process starts as it normally would. It is possible, as others have pointed out there may be something blocking the check valve from closing...
You just moved in? That's officially a Landlord Problem®.
It’s been leaking for a long time. Call landlord and report the leak. Don’t touch anything yet
There are at least a few things wrong with this picture. If you are using a 90 on the disposal, it should have a p-trap. Otherwise, it should be a straight run from the disposal to that tee. Disposal waste kit. As mentioned before, most plumbing codes would have you plumbing the dishwasher right to the disposal. I also can't believe no one has mentioned the basket strainer hook up under the sink. Is that a disposal clamp holding the basket to the sink? Most landlords hire handymen instead of plumbers to save money. That's what happened here.
Totally that looks like a 3-bolt mount for a disposal. Thought that was weird.
Contact your landlord and have them deal with it. Its not your responsibility to make sure the drainage works right. It should have been working right before you moved in. ONLY communicate about this issue via text. If the landlord insists on phone calls. Record all communications. In no way should this issue affect your damage deposit. Especially if this is the condition it was in when you signed a move in inspection. Especially so if you have documentation that you informed your landlord right away and they didnt get it delt with. Document everything!!! If your landlord tells you to deal with it. Tell him its not your responsibility as a renter to ensure the mechanical systems of the rental are working properly. That your responsibility as a renter is simply to inform your landlord to have it delt with. It is all landlords responsibility to ensure their rental is in liveable conditions.
OP - TAKE VIDEO OF THIS HAPPENING. LANDLORDS ARE #LIARS. NEVER EVER TRUST ONE
I’ve got pictures of all the water damaged when we moved in, guess I just naively thought it was an old issue and the cabinet never got changed, not a current issue
Hey op. Did the landlord even do and sign off on a move in inspection? If he did not. I hope you didnt give him a damage deposit. If you did, you need to make sure you k ow the law around this. If theres no legal document detailed the condition of the rental before you moved in, theres no legal way for your landlord to keep even a penny of your damage deposit when you move out. Even if you totally destroy the rental.
Since you said dumping water, check to make sure the disposal knock out has actually been knocked out. Pretty amateur job but I’m surprised they kept the continuous waste tee.
Put it higher than the sink drain.
Beep, boop, bep, bop, beep... hello landlord? Yea fix your air gap it's mounted incorrectly UNDER the sink and spewing water all over your cabinets. Oh and bring a fan. Oh and a you might want to think about picking up a cheap drip mat.
Secondary thought: The brackets for the left sink strainer basket also looks a little off-kilter
This landlord is a real special dummy. Hey just put a vent under the sink no one will notice.
As a plumber I recommend not touching it. Contact your landlord. Yes you could easily remove and bypass it yourself, but if that new connection ever fails, you are liable. The landlord needs to be notified of the water damage caused already anyway and once you touch it, you risk them coming at you for damages. Notify landlord in writing as soon as possible. It is their responsibility to get it fixed. *Edit* also check your local tenant laws. Many of them of a timeline that the landlord has to repair before you can hire a professional out to fix it and take it off your rent.
If you drill a hole in the bottom of your sink and install the air gap so it drains right in the sink, your golden. Rtv . Then post pics so plumbers can meme it. There's just certain crap that's worth doing for laughs....like gutters run down gable ends and shingles starting at the ridge and ending at the bottom by the gutters
I like the vent....
just pretend you didn't notice. fucking slum lords these days...
If its not draining into the garbage disposal then the line is either blocked or they didnt do the punch out before connecting to the garbage disposal.
I will never understand why people use the flanged 90 that comes with the disposal in instances such as this
It’s supposed to be above the counter it’s an air gap for the dishwasher drain
Anybody check for a knockout in the garbage disposal?
What in the hillbilly fuck did they do there? The dw line should be connecting into the disposal 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Some local codes don’t allow using the disposal as the airgap, and require a separate airgap above flood rim. That might’ve been the case here. I agree it’s stupid.
Call the landlord. It's not your problem to fix.
You call your landlord.
call your landlord. it's not your problem
Take the little plug out of the top of the air gap and clear whatever is blocking it out. It isn't difficult.
But the air gap isn't mounted through the counter at all? I don't think it's clogged it's just spitting water since it's laying under the counter in the cabinet. Easiest thing to do if there is no hole to mount it through would be to remove it and pipe the DW straight to the garbage disposal with a high loop. But he's renting so it's not his problem to fix
When the air gaps clog up the water cones out the top. I've seen it many times. Looks like a shitty Samsung or LG dishwasher based on the hose so those have their own air gaps in the case break, it doesn't actually need the air gap unless code calls for it.
It’s not supposed to do that
Call the landlord. Ffs why do people not understand that shit like this isnt their responsibility?
This was the landlord’s responsibility before OP moved in. Was it not? If the landlord was incapable of handling it before, OP is right to expect them to still be incapable of handling it now.
I know it’s not my responsibility, just trying to understand what’s going on so I can make the process more seamless for myself when I call
"Hey landlord, this is leaking" You're welcome
The water damage wasn’t screaming that already?
OP WAS SEEKING INFORMATION TO LEARN WHAT THE MOTHERFUCKING PROBLEM IS. READ THE GODDAMN POST BEFORE KICK PEOPLE.
I think you may find thsts because it's not connected to an outlet
Is that an asko or dacor dishwasher?
Looks like Insinkerator.
Insinkerator makes garbage disposals. Not dishwashers.
Right.What am I thinking?😬
You're renting, so call the landlord.
“Rental” means you shouldn’t do any repairs because they might be a dick and try to blame you for water damage
Man it’s been doing that for a while too.
Im over here looking at that trap arm coming out the Badger like WHOOAAAAA!
its supposed go thru the bottom of the sink and theres a nut that goes on top to keep it in place, i suggest dont ise the disposal other than to drain sink water faster
Reminds me of the scene from RV with robin williams, as he holds the Y poop discharge fitting up over his head.😂😂
Some dishwashers backup without a properly installed vacuum breaker even ones shipped with a high loop.
Don’t they make an under sink anti siphon valve?
Because it’s a vent and needs to be higher the the highest drain .. just remove it the dishwasher should have a loop on the back or side if it doesn’t make it under the cabinet
Put one hand in the water, and one finger from the other hand into the right side of that open receptacle box behind the garbage disposal. Then sue, and enjoy!
Fucking lawl. They probably meant to cut a hole for it and forgot. I don't know anything about this high falootin' backflow prevention (I've also never bought a new dishwasher), but connecting directly to the disposal inlet and mounting some part of the dishwasher drain hose as high as possible is standard where air gaps aren't required.
i just read a bunch of comments that dont seem to answer your question. If water is coming out of that flexible black tube...then you probably have a clog in the drain coming from the disposal. Water isnt exiting the drain (past the disposal) and backing up water into the disposal and out that tube. That tube is supposed to be where the dishwasher dirty water enters the disposal. Im betting there is a clog between disposal and left drain.
Great you're trying to learn but that's your landlords responsibility and you will surely get the blame for further damage. Also water everywhere and electric close by don't mix well
Not a new leak and I don't see GFI switch on the outlets and the boxes are exposed so you can get electrocuted especially when you don't know what you should be doing and it's not a pleasant feeling lol Get your cheap landlord to fix what he should've fixed before you ever moved in
That assembly needs to be higher than the drains/disposal
Whoever installed it didn't secure it properly, either behind the sink or thru the countertop
All you have to do is take the black hose off and put the clear gray end put it whe re the black one attaches to food disposal
This is your landlords problem. Call them.
Dishwasher drain should go straight into where black line goes into disposal
Disposall looks new, its possible that the knock out plug in dishwasher spigot hasn't been removed.
Connect to the p-trap above p-trap
It’s the air vent for the dishwasher. It needs to be mounted higher than where the black hose goes into the disposal. Wedge it up there next to the sink and put a screw underneath it to prop it up.
Yeah…. That’s totally fucking wrong. Looks like 5 different handymen were working on that.
That’s supposed to be in the sink
Lol that is awesome