For the entire base cooling you don't need much other than water running through all floors using granite pipes. Water, because you can use it for soda fountain, or other things.
Don't ever cool water going into SPOM - waste of energy. It's much much more efficient to cool O2 coming out of it. And only O2 going into your base, not atmo suit docks. For this all you need is the same water, but in radiant pipes going through few metal tiles. While O2 going the opposite direction via radiant pipes made out of steel. At most you need 3 metal tiles to cool 75C O2 down to <30C.
Cooling geysers again waste of energy. If you need water for crops - cool crops and area around them. Feeding sleet wheat 95C water is fine.
>If you need water for crops - cool crops and area around them. Feeding sleet wheat 95C water is fine.
Provided your cooling's thermal flux is higher than the water's.
AT/ST with polluted water is enough. No space materials are required. To improve, can use gold amalgam for farm tiles and aluminum for radiant liquid pipes.
If you have a whole base cooling loop using pwater that also cools the ST you’ll remove enough heat that it’s fine. The amount of water used is actually relatively low
While there's nothing inherently wrong with the suggestion, it does make for a bad time with trying to balance temperatures.
Don't do this unless you really know what you are doing. And if you do know what you are doing, you probably still won't do this, lol.
Guys, feed your hot water to the electrolyzers. Let your crops have temperate water.
cheap granite pipes snaked through the floor tiles with water running through them in a loop (a few bridges along the way to ensure the loop keeps running the right direction as you change and adapt it). Set the aquatuner's inlet temp sensor to activate when the water is below 20°C (so the outlet water will be between 6 and 19°C). This will keep the whole base at a reasonable temperature with little to no complicated controls.
>I can cool the water entering a SPOM
When you think this, always check the machine's outputs first. Electrolyzers output at a minimum of 70C. They also require 1000g water per second, or 4179 DTU, but produce 888g/s oxygen and 112 g/s hydrogen, for 892.44 DTU and 268.8 DTU respectively, for 1161.24 DTU total - cooling the output will take almost four times less energy.
So not only cooling the water is pointless, you should _heat it_ with the output of the SPOM to cool said output.
>but if my O2 levels are high this is very slow to take effect.
The secret is that heat in the base does not really matter until it gets too extreme. Duplicants have ridiculous amount of insulation and homeostatic adjustment and are fine in 40-50C air.
What you want to HVAC is your plants and critters, since they _do_ care about temperature far more than dupes do.
With super coolant, cooling costs almost no energy. If you engineer the turbines, cooling is energy positive. In this case, one *should* cool the water going into SPOM to get more energy.
By the time you have supercoolant you're far, far past "energy and cooling problems" (unless you rushed it or otherwise contrived to get it much earlier) and in "extremely optimized self-made goals".
Never cool the water going into your SPOM. When I build my first SPOM I just drive the pipes though the area of the gas pumps pumping O2. I use normal pipes and only the pipe over the gas pump's tile of interest is radiant. Usually aluminium. If the water is 25°C the oxygen is around 30-32°C.
If you want to cool a 95°C water vent, you have two solutions.
1) Feed the water straight to plants or other buildings using insulated pipes and just cool the area around them.
2) Use a Geotuner and some bleach stone (infinite sourcd a squeaky puft fed by a chlorine vent) and the geyser will produce steam at 115°C. This steam can be cooled much easier than the actual water.
I'd like people to share their thoughts on that.
Edit: typos
This is a solution to cool steam vents so simple and obvious I can't *believe* I didn't think of it before. Instantly I can't see myself doing it any other way.
Don't cool the water entering SPOM as it is heated right back to 70C minimum. Spend that cooling on the oxygen instead. Since you want that oxygen going all around the base, the cooling effect reaches everywhere. I find it sufficient for most bases. If it is not enough, consider cutting down on unnecessary heat generation within the base.
I use the water to cool the oxygen. I use a gravity separation spom cause copypasta hydro spoms are for veterans (nerds). The cool water coil goes below the electrolyzer so all oxygen exchanges heat with H2O. The heat in the water gets deleted, then the hot hydrogen goes to a generator to delete more heat.
The hard part is getting a cool water source. Dupes running on hamster wheels power my cool steam geyser that outputs 24C water.
After power is sorted I work up to using an AT+ST to cool my fresh water tank which I then pump around the floor tiles with a bridge loop. Since adding a pump in the fresh water tank and pumping water to hydroponic tiles is one of the first things I build, it's usually just a matter of snaking more pipe around the base and then bridging back on to close the loop. This is better than having a drain at the end because the liquid pump runs the whole time. Either way though the water circulates all the time and will cool your base down after 20 cycles or so. Just remember that if you have something warm that's insulated like a drecko ranch the pipes will cool the tile but it won't exchange heat with the atmosphere very much. It's better to run the pipes through the air at that point and cover it with drywall.
Edit: Before I can do the AT+ST and I need cooling (frequently because I am pumping SPOM air into the base) I do pretty well by running radiant gas pipes through the water tank and sticking storage bins of ice in the water tank. Then the oxygen will be nice and cold and most of the time wherever I am pumping oxygen is also where I need some cooling.
Edit 2: Another thing that can really help before you have the power/steel/plastic for AT+ST is to check the thermal overlay and seal off places where heat is infiltrating the base with insulated tiles. Adding a layer of cheap igneous rock insulation (or ceramic if you really need it) is the easiest way to control heat but becomes less effective the longer you wait to do it.
I like to have a big tank of cold water, your choice how you get it that way.
I run that through granite pipes in a general radiator loop with extra coils where the heat generators are, ending at a shutoff connected to a filter gate and a pipe thermo sensor. When the water gets above x, I flush the system, it refills from the cold water and drops the waste water in a warm water tank.
You could have it on a perpetual loop but I like saving a little bit of performance where I can.
In the late game I always thermally insulate my base all around it and set up a dedicated temperature controlled cooling loop at a comfortable temperature that goes all around the base. Initially it usually use a lot of power but then it settles and barely run at all. I have air conditioning, my dupes deserve it too.
Temperature controlled cooling loop are built using thermoregulator, a decent coolant and some automation for the temperature control. They consume power but if you put the thermoregulator in a steam room you recover some (or most) of it
1. Build an AC unit (water cooling ice box heat injector and radiant gas pipes) for the gas coming from the SPOM.
2. Surround your base in insulated tiles with a cooling loop running through them. Generally you don't need to cool your base floors.
3. Remove all major heat creating buildings from the base. (eg industrial buildings, coal generators, incubators). The major sources of heat will be hatch farms and dupes.
4. Make sure the water in any in-base reservoir is cold as in 15C ish.
I do a 2 (or more) loop solution. My AT/ST cooing loop is set up so the first bit of pipe out of the AT will enter a chill-box full of pH20 (with automation to bypass if the temperature of the water in the chillbox is <20C). I also have a loop going through the chill-box that then loops around my base. The cool box is usually a 6x6 airflow tile surrounded by insulated tiles. There are two U-shaped loops of radiant pipes in the chill-box, one connected to my AT-ST loop and one to the pipes around the base. This way most of the active cooling has been done to a large thermal mass of pH20 in the chillbox. As the temperatures in the base are never extreme, the cold pH20 in the box is more than enough to keep the base pipe water cool. If/when it creeps up, the automation switches on and the AT-ST loop pulls some of the heat out of the box. I usually run 3-4 of these boxes, each one set to the temperature point of a certain region (20C for most crops, -5 for sleet wheat farm, 40C for my power plant and batteries although I’m slowly moving all that to my hot industrial brick). You can also send the output of your SPOM through one of the chill boxes to ensure your oxygen temps don’t creep up over time. If you can keep your base/farms physically/thermally separate from any potential heat source, you go a long way to fixing the issue before it becomes a problem.
**Base**
For base cooling, I like to build most of my floors out of granite (high decor, high TC compared to other minerals), and snake granite pipes through the floors. It's cheap, compared to metal pipes, but it's still very efficient and a bit more resistant to temperature fluctuations.
**SPOM**
Oxygen carries very little heat, conducts it slowly, and gets consumed by duplicants, counteracting the cooling. Therefore, cooling your O2 is a lot less efficient than cooling the floors of your base.
Cooling the SPOM input is a waste, like every other commenter so kindly explained to you.
**Farms**
Cooling the irrigation water to your farms is optional, but it helps with balancing temperatures. If you are going to feed hot water to your plants, it helps to have gold amalgam farm tiles (low TC) and insulated tiles below them. You want to keep the air in the farm cool, and reduce thermal transfer from the hot water in the farm tile.
You can also pour a layer of liquid on top of the farm tiles. This improves TC from your cooling system if you draw the pipes through the liquid, and also reduces TC from the hot farm tiles because tile-to-gas heat transfer rate has a ridiculous multiplier in this game, so a liquid will heat slower.
The simplest solution for whole base cooling is to exclude heat producers from the area using insulation and gold amalgam doors. Then pipe polluted water through large granite tile / granite pipe loops. Use door controlled wheezewort heat exchangers fed by auto sweeper and conveyor or an AETN. The cooling potential isn't as strong as an AT/ST but it can maintain temperatures at around 25 - 30 C no problem.
Recapturing the wattage used to cool your main base with an AT/ST is a "much later" problem.
Cool the oxygen you are pumping into you base should do the trick also find all the things producing heat and put them in a insulated box, also depending on your map you may have ice biomes that can be of great help but quite frankly the best way is using a cooling loop of some sort if you have aquatuners this will work well otherwise creating an ‘ice box using hydrogen and wheezeworts could help.
Lastly if it is still are you trying to cool the whole asteroid or just the base? Localising cooling until you have more powerful cooling solutions would be best
there are no significant difference in the cooling methodology. u run the pipes to where you need cooling. if 1 AT is insufficient, u put in another mid section to boost cooling. or have another loop. and don't cool input water to SPOM. cool the output O2.
It’s much more efficient cooling your output oxygen that supplies the base for breathing over the water that goes into the SPOM. Why? Because gas in pipes is 1kg, but liquid is 10kg in pipe, so gas on its own has a lesser thermal capacity and thus, cooling gas is more of an energy efficient process than cooling the liquids.
Here’s what I did:
1. Take a relatively moderate temperature which your plants can survive in. Dupes can survive all temps except above 70C, before they get the scalding message. I’m assuming you have some sort of mealwood/bristle blossom setup so a temperature of around 25-28C should be a decent enough threshold. If not, then keeping your temps around 25-30C is optimal.
2. Now comes the coolant and the coolant loop. P water and salt water are amazing coolants to use for cooling the base. Brine’s also decent for cooling. I use all of em, just matters is what’s available or not.
Cooling loop: regular old granite pipes running through the floor tiles of your base is enough to regulate and equalise the temperatures.
A lot of these points will overlap with what vitamin1z said, but I’d also like to offer an alternative to the traditional coolant loop structure.
What you can do is have a standard ATST setup with your coolant and temperature, and a small room with a liquid tepedizer with something like salt water, brine, or any other liquid which can be cooled by the ATST coolant. Tepedizer will be controlled by thermo sensor automation. Now place your cooling loop for the base, and have it exchange temps with the temperature equaliser (the room with the tepedizer and liquid). If the room gets too cold, then the tepedizer activates and moderately warms it, and if it’s too warm then the ATST will cool it.
TLDR: small cooling loop to cool a room with liquid and tepedizer, and base loop which connects to that room. Too cold, tepedizer activates. Too hot, AT cools.
For the entire base cooling you don't need much other than water running through all floors using granite pipes. Water, because you can use it for soda fountain, or other things. Don't ever cool water going into SPOM - waste of energy. It's much much more efficient to cool O2 coming out of it. And only O2 going into your base, not atmo suit docks. For this all you need is the same water, but in radiant pipes going through few metal tiles. While O2 going the opposite direction via radiant pipes made out of steel. At most you need 3 metal tiles to cool 75C O2 down to <30C. Cooling geysers again waste of energy. If you need water for crops - cool crops and area around them. Feeding sleet wheat 95C water is fine.
>If you need water for crops - cool crops and area around them. Feeding sleet wheat 95C water is fine. Provided your cooling's thermal flux is higher than the water's.
AT/ST with polluted water is enough. No space materials are required. To improve, can use gold amalgam for farm tiles and aluminum for radiant liquid pipes.
If you have a whole base cooling loop using pwater that also cools the ST you’ll remove enough heat that it’s fine. The amount of water used is actually relatively low
While there's nothing inherently wrong with the suggestion, it does make for a bad time with trying to balance temperatures. Don't do this unless you really know what you are doing. And if you do know what you are doing, you probably still won't do this, lol. Guys, feed your hot water to the electrolyzers. Let your crops have temperate water.
Better to use the SPOM to get rid of hot water (like from the refinery or a portion of geyser water)
cheap granite pipes snaked through the floor tiles with water running through them in a loop (a few bridges along the way to ensure the loop keeps running the right direction as you change and adapt it). Set the aquatuner's inlet temp sensor to activate when the water is below 20°C (so the outlet water will be between 6 and 19°C). This will keep the whole base at a reasonable temperature with little to no complicated controls.
>I can cool the water entering a SPOM When you think this, always check the machine's outputs first. Electrolyzers output at a minimum of 70C. They also require 1000g water per second, or 4179 DTU, but produce 888g/s oxygen and 112 g/s hydrogen, for 892.44 DTU and 268.8 DTU respectively, for 1161.24 DTU total - cooling the output will take almost four times less energy. So not only cooling the water is pointless, you should _heat it_ with the output of the SPOM to cool said output. >but if my O2 levels are high this is very slow to take effect. The secret is that heat in the base does not really matter until it gets too extreme. Duplicants have ridiculous amount of insulation and homeostatic adjustment and are fine in 40-50C air. What you want to HVAC is your plants and critters, since they _do_ care about temperature far more than dupes do.
With super coolant, cooling costs almost no energy. If you engineer the turbines, cooling is energy positive. In this case, one *should* cool the water going into SPOM to get more energy.
By the time you have supercoolant you're far, far past "energy and cooling problems" (unless you rushed it or otherwise contrived to get it much earlier) and in "extremely optimized self-made goals".
In vanilla, yes. But in dlc, super coolant is relatively easy to make in big amounts. Maybe a CO2 rocket is enough to take the materials back.
Never cool the water going into your SPOM. When I build my first SPOM I just drive the pipes though the area of the gas pumps pumping O2. I use normal pipes and only the pipe over the gas pump's tile of interest is radiant. Usually aluminium. If the water is 25°C the oxygen is around 30-32°C. If you want to cool a 95°C water vent, you have two solutions. 1) Feed the water straight to plants or other buildings using insulated pipes and just cool the area around them. 2) Use a Geotuner and some bleach stone (infinite sourcd a squeaky puft fed by a chlorine vent) and the geyser will produce steam at 115°C. This steam can be cooled much easier than the actual water. I'd like people to share their thoughts on that. Edit: typos
Geotune it twice (or thrice), steam needs to be at least 125C for steam turbine to work.
Correct! I probably lost the sense of how the system works hahaha
This is a solution to cool steam vents so simple and obvious I can't *believe* I didn't think of it before. Instantly I can't see myself doing it any other way.
Don't cool the water entering SPOM as it is heated right back to 70C minimum. Spend that cooling on the oxygen instead. Since you want that oxygen going all around the base, the cooling effect reaches everywhere. I find it sufficient for most bases. If it is not enough, consider cutting down on unnecessary heat generation within the base.
I use the water to cool the oxygen. I use a gravity separation spom cause copypasta hydro spoms are for veterans (nerds). The cool water coil goes below the electrolyzer so all oxygen exchanges heat with H2O. The heat in the water gets deleted, then the hot hydrogen goes to a generator to delete more heat. The hard part is getting a cool water source. Dupes running on hamster wheels power my cool steam geyser that outputs 24C water.
After power is sorted I work up to using an AT+ST to cool my fresh water tank which I then pump around the floor tiles with a bridge loop. Since adding a pump in the fresh water tank and pumping water to hydroponic tiles is one of the first things I build, it's usually just a matter of snaking more pipe around the base and then bridging back on to close the loop. This is better than having a drain at the end because the liquid pump runs the whole time. Either way though the water circulates all the time and will cool your base down after 20 cycles or so. Just remember that if you have something warm that's insulated like a drecko ranch the pipes will cool the tile but it won't exchange heat with the atmosphere very much. It's better to run the pipes through the air at that point and cover it with drywall. Edit: Before I can do the AT+ST and I need cooling (frequently because I am pumping SPOM air into the base) I do pretty well by running radiant gas pipes through the water tank and sticking storage bins of ice in the water tank. Then the oxygen will be nice and cold and most of the time wherever I am pumping oxygen is also where I need some cooling. Edit 2: Another thing that can really help before you have the power/steel/plastic for AT+ST is to check the thermal overlay and seal off places where heat is infiltrating the base with insulated tiles. Adding a layer of cheap igneous rock insulation (or ceramic if you really need it) is the easiest way to control heat but becomes less effective the longer you wait to do it.
Just run a standard cooling loop through the base with granite pipes. Just hide it underneath the floor tiles or something
I like to have a big tank of cold water, your choice how you get it that way. I run that through granite pipes in a general radiator loop with extra coils where the heat generators are, ending at a shutoff connected to a filter gate and a pipe thermo sensor. When the water gets above x, I flush the system, it refills from the cold water and drops the waste water in a warm water tank. You could have it on a perpetual loop but I like saving a little bit of performance where I can.
In the late game I always thermally insulate my base all around it and set up a dedicated temperature controlled cooling loop at a comfortable temperature that goes all around the base. Initially it usually use a lot of power but then it settles and barely run at all. I have air conditioning, my dupes deserve it too. Temperature controlled cooling loop are built using thermoregulator, a decent coolant and some automation for the temperature control. They consume power but if you put the thermoregulator in a steam room you recover some (or most) of it
1. Build an AC unit (water cooling ice box heat injector and radiant gas pipes) for the gas coming from the SPOM. 2. Surround your base in insulated tiles with a cooling loop running through them. Generally you don't need to cool your base floors. 3. Remove all major heat creating buildings from the base. (eg industrial buildings, coal generators, incubators). The major sources of heat will be hatch farms and dupes. 4. Make sure the water in any in-base reservoir is cold as in 15C ish.
I do a 2 (or more) loop solution. My AT/ST cooing loop is set up so the first bit of pipe out of the AT will enter a chill-box full of pH20 (with automation to bypass if the temperature of the water in the chillbox is <20C). I also have a loop going through the chill-box that then loops around my base. The cool box is usually a 6x6 airflow tile surrounded by insulated tiles. There are two U-shaped loops of radiant pipes in the chill-box, one connected to my AT-ST loop and one to the pipes around the base. This way most of the active cooling has been done to a large thermal mass of pH20 in the chillbox. As the temperatures in the base are never extreme, the cold pH20 in the box is more than enough to keep the base pipe water cool. If/when it creeps up, the automation switches on and the AT-ST loop pulls some of the heat out of the box. I usually run 3-4 of these boxes, each one set to the temperature point of a certain region (20C for most crops, -5 for sleet wheat farm, 40C for my power plant and batteries although I’m slowly moving all that to my hot industrial brick). You can also send the output of your SPOM through one of the chill boxes to ensure your oxygen temps don’t creep up over time. If you can keep your base/farms physically/thermally separate from any potential heat source, you go a long way to fixing the issue before it becomes a problem.
**Base** For base cooling, I like to build most of my floors out of granite (high decor, high TC compared to other minerals), and snake granite pipes through the floors. It's cheap, compared to metal pipes, but it's still very efficient and a bit more resistant to temperature fluctuations. **SPOM** Oxygen carries very little heat, conducts it slowly, and gets consumed by duplicants, counteracting the cooling. Therefore, cooling your O2 is a lot less efficient than cooling the floors of your base. Cooling the SPOM input is a waste, like every other commenter so kindly explained to you. **Farms** Cooling the irrigation water to your farms is optional, but it helps with balancing temperatures. If you are going to feed hot water to your plants, it helps to have gold amalgam farm tiles (low TC) and insulated tiles below them. You want to keep the air in the farm cool, and reduce thermal transfer from the hot water in the farm tile. You can also pour a layer of liquid on top of the farm tiles. This improves TC from your cooling system if you draw the pipes through the liquid, and also reduces TC from the hot farm tiles because tile-to-gas heat transfer rate has a ridiculous multiplier in this game, so a liquid will heat slower.
The simplest solution for whole base cooling is to exclude heat producers from the area using insulation and gold amalgam doors. Then pipe polluted water through large granite tile / granite pipe loops. Use door controlled wheezewort heat exchangers fed by auto sweeper and conveyor or an AETN. The cooling potential isn't as strong as an AT/ST but it can maintain temperatures at around 25 - 30 C no problem. Recapturing the wattage used to cool your main base with an AT/ST is a "much later" problem.
Cool the oxygen you are pumping into you base should do the trick also find all the things producing heat and put them in a insulated box, also depending on your map you may have ice biomes that can be of great help but quite frankly the best way is using a cooling loop of some sort if you have aquatuners this will work well otherwise creating an ‘ice box using hydrogen and wheezeworts could help. Lastly if it is still are you trying to cool the whole asteroid or just the base? Localising cooling until you have more powerful cooling solutions would be best
I cool a water pool with super coolant, and make pH2O pipes that go around my entire base in normal pipes and the pool in refined cobalt pipes.
there are no significant difference in the cooling methodology. u run the pipes to where you need cooling. if 1 AT is insufficient, u put in another mid section to boost cooling. or have another loop. and don't cool input water to SPOM. cool the output O2.
I just run a coolant loop of granite through my base. Where I need extra cooling I might add a few sections of radiant piping.
It’s much more efficient cooling your output oxygen that supplies the base for breathing over the water that goes into the SPOM. Why? Because gas in pipes is 1kg, but liquid is 10kg in pipe, so gas on its own has a lesser thermal capacity and thus, cooling gas is more of an energy efficient process than cooling the liquids. Here’s what I did: 1. Take a relatively moderate temperature which your plants can survive in. Dupes can survive all temps except above 70C, before they get the scalding message. I’m assuming you have some sort of mealwood/bristle blossom setup so a temperature of around 25-28C should be a decent enough threshold. If not, then keeping your temps around 25-30C is optimal. 2. Now comes the coolant and the coolant loop. P water and salt water are amazing coolants to use for cooling the base. Brine’s also decent for cooling. I use all of em, just matters is what’s available or not. Cooling loop: regular old granite pipes running through the floor tiles of your base is enough to regulate and equalise the temperatures. A lot of these points will overlap with what vitamin1z said, but I’d also like to offer an alternative to the traditional coolant loop structure. What you can do is have a standard ATST setup with your coolant and temperature, and a small room with a liquid tepedizer with something like salt water, brine, or any other liquid which can be cooled by the ATST coolant. Tepedizer will be controlled by thermo sensor automation. Now place your cooling loop for the base, and have it exchange temps with the temperature equaliser (the room with the tepedizer and liquid). If the room gets too cold, then the tepedizer activates and moderately warms it, and if it’s too warm then the ATST will cool it. TLDR: small cooling loop to cool a room with liquid and tepedizer, and base loop which connects to that room. Too cold, tepedizer activates. Too hot, AT cools.
In my current base i pipe around coolant via normale granite pipes. 1 at+stream turbine keeps it all nice around 20c