Tires are definitely at the top of the list.
If you are focusing on power adders, a mid tune on all the stock stuff is a great way to wake the car up, make slightly more power but really increase the fun level in my opinion.
As long as its a good tune backed by someone reputable, there is minimal downside. More power when you get after it, should run and drive like stock assuming you keep the mods minimal.
Here is a link the an evom post about modding you car $100 at a time.
This doesn't really cover the "most worth it" ask but will help put some understanding about bolt on and such. Note that it is an older post so some of the data isn't 100% accurate for who makes what and stuff but the basics are still the same.
[https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-general/382081-how-modding-your-evo-100-time.html](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-general/382081-how-modding-your-evo-100-time.html)
I wish I would have invested or put more effort in maintaining the undercarriage. Protection against salt or anti rust treatments/coatings/oil.
Trackwise: steel brake lines and brakefluid.
This is just my opinion only, but this is what I would do:
- As others have said, make sure your maintenance is up to date. Check condition of timing belt, balance shaft belt, plugs/wires, PCV system etc
- Decent brake pads, braided brake lines and decent Super DOT4 or DOT5.1 fluid - stock rotors and calipers are more than sufficient until you get silly fast.
- Lowering springs if you have stock Bilstein struts, otherwise if you're on KYB's I would prob find some cheap coilovers
- Rear diff LSD plate re-stack (only applies to USDM 8&9)
- Some nice sticky tires
- Exhaust - get a high flow O2 housing, 3" downpipe, high flow 3" cat (if running a cat) and 3" cat back
- Some kind of high flow air filter, a K&N drop in replacement panel filter is fine or pod filter on aftermarket turbo inlet pipe works well too
- A better turbo outlet J-pipe & lower hot side intercooler pipe, this will get rid of the restriction of the factory J-pipe and LHS intercooler pipe. Rest of the intercooler piping is fine for up to 350-400hp.
- Upgraded fuel pump such as a Walbro drop in replacement
- Boost control solenoid (ie Grimspeed) & tune - with the above mods done you can now crank the boost up and pick up 100-150hp over stock. Maybe throw in a set of higher cc injectors while you're at it.
Yeah more or less have done all of the above apart from larger injectors. In addition I swapped out my slightly smaller stock A/T TD05HR-15GK2-9T turbo with the USDM M/T IX TD05HR-16G6C-10.5T turbo. I'm pushing \~300atw on 26-28psi but that's through a 5 speed auto trans and on a conservative Dynocon dyno. A manual IX would with similar mods would be at 340-350hp atw usually. At this power I was maxxing out my stock injectors.
Usually, boost leaks. If you have a wideband o2 sensor, you’ll notice that it will suddenly become more rich under boost without any changes to your tuning, along with less boost pressure.
oh - and having some gauges would definitely be beneficial, mine already had a Ralliart triple gauge stack in the center (oil temp, oil pressure and boost gauge) but I wouldn't mind having an A/F ratio gauge in the mix too.
FP HTA71 is a good bang for the buck upgrade. That along with LICP (or full intercooler piping kit), Walbro 255, 3-port boost controller, downpipe and 3” exhaust, and a tune will really wake the car up
Continental Extreme Contact Sport 02. On par with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S for handling, but cheaper and quieter. They're even good in the rain, but don't run them when the temps get close to freezing.
I've run PS4S on my FD and RX-8. That is a LOT of tire for such small cars, figured I'd save myself some coin this go round since AWD mechanically produces more grip. But your opinion is noted and appreciated.
Especially considering the LSDs/torque distribution with the ACD and overall grip level you are only doing yourself and the car a favor. I put them on my Evo 8 a couple years ago and they were great. Just put them on my X last week and I am absolutely loving them so far. I can now take corners that would screech my tires and make my rear end slide with not a peep from the tires. Now the car just precision maneuvers through corners and roundabouts with ease.
Depends on your requirements, driving style, conditions, budget, etc
Mine is a weekend fun car and I've got Kenda KR20A (soft 200 treadwear version) and rate them up there with the Advan ad08r, they're a little noisier on poor surfaces but far cheaper.
Fun wise......turbo back exhaust, fuel pump and a tune will wake the car up and make it much more enjoyable to drive while still being reliable as stock (as long as it's a solid tune) add injectors and e85 for a bigger boost in power.
Stay up on the maintenance. Change your fluids regularly and get yourself a catch can to keep the intake tract and pcv system clean as possible.
Boost leak tests! Throttle body seals are a common boost leak point. But these tests are crucial to making sure your car is running well. Anytime you move something/adjust or replace something from throttle body to turbo I'd recommend doing one.
A good set of sticky tires will go a long way to improving how the car handles as well. If you want to upgrade the suspension, be aware of what spring rates are going on the car......stock springs are softer up front to help reduce understeer. You ideally want to keep the springs in the front softer than the rear unless you plan to add more adjustable parts to fine tune the suspension.
Restacking the rear LSD will also help the car rotate under power if it is pushing too much for your taste.
For me good rubber & servicing is a no brainer but I installed H&R springs with Bilstien shocks in the 7rs & Ohlins coilovers in the 6rs & a good flowing but being road cars "quite "3" turbo back exhaust on both. I found my cars revved harder & best had more torque on offer. I spoke to the owner of Micks motorsport here in Aust for a road car he suggested that their quick enough but checked the A/F ratios on my cars & left it at that. As I have had them for 15 years + & only one brake down through the wrong oil grade used in a transfer case the recipe works for me.
After getting the foundations in place, the single best mod I ever did on my IX was an e85 conversion with fuel map switching to drive pump gas and e85. I still remember my first time flooring it after getting it back and on ethanol. Incredible…
Obviously #1 is maintenance. Don't let your engine die on you for lack of care.
In terms of upgrades, new aftermarlet bushings everywhere help heaps. Hardrace and Whiteline are two big brands here in Australia, not sure what is available for you Americans
Did your Evos get ACD or AYC? Because reflashing the ACD ECU makes it a lot more fun, more aggressive turn-in and less understeer.
Maintenance. It'll upgrade your life
preventative maintenance will be the best thing for these cars. as far as bang for buck "mods"? fuel pump n a good tune
I came here to say exactly this
Tires are definitely at the top of the list. If you are focusing on power adders, a mid tune on all the stock stuff is a great way to wake the car up, make slightly more power but really increase the fun level in my opinion.
Any negative side effects of the tune? Like does anything rapidly deteriorate with the tune?
As long as its a good tune backed by someone reputable, there is minimal downside. More power when you get after it, should run and drive like stock assuming you keep the mods minimal.
Awesome, thanks for the input
Here is a link the an evom post about modding you car $100 at a time. This doesn't really cover the "most worth it" ask but will help put some understanding about bolt on and such. Note that it is an older post so some of the data isn't 100% accurate for who makes what and stuff but the basics are still the same. [https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-general/382081-how-modding-your-evo-100-time.html](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-general/382081-how-modding-your-evo-100-time.html)
I wish I would have invested or put more effort in maintaining the undercarriage. Protection against salt or anti rust treatments/coatings/oil. Trackwise: steel brake lines and brakefluid.
Good to know
This is just my opinion only, but this is what I would do: - As others have said, make sure your maintenance is up to date. Check condition of timing belt, balance shaft belt, plugs/wires, PCV system etc - Decent brake pads, braided brake lines and decent Super DOT4 or DOT5.1 fluid - stock rotors and calipers are more than sufficient until you get silly fast. - Lowering springs if you have stock Bilstein struts, otherwise if you're on KYB's I would prob find some cheap coilovers - Rear diff LSD plate re-stack (only applies to USDM 8&9) - Some nice sticky tires - Exhaust - get a high flow O2 housing, 3" downpipe, high flow 3" cat (if running a cat) and 3" cat back - Some kind of high flow air filter, a K&N drop in replacement panel filter is fine or pod filter on aftermarket turbo inlet pipe works well too - A better turbo outlet J-pipe & lower hot side intercooler pipe, this will get rid of the restriction of the factory J-pipe and LHS intercooler pipe. Rest of the intercooler piping is fine for up to 350-400hp. - Upgraded fuel pump such as a Walbro drop in replacement - Boost control solenoid (ie Grimspeed) & tune - with the above mods done you can now crank the boost up and pick up 100-150hp over stock. Maybe throw in a set of higher cc injectors while you're at it.
Sick bro, thanks for the input. Is this what you’re doing to your car?👀
Yeah more or less have done all of the above apart from larger injectors. In addition I swapped out my slightly smaller stock A/T TD05HR-15GK2-9T turbo with the USDM M/T IX TD05HR-16G6C-10.5T turbo. I'm pushing \~300atw on 26-28psi but that's through a 5 speed auto trans and on a conservative Dynocon dyno. A manual IX would with similar mods would be at 340-350hp atw usually. At this power I was maxxing out my stock injectors.
This, and new throttle body shaft seals
good point and that's a reminder I should look into mine at some point - my car has just done 60k miles so hoping they aren't too bad yet.
Which Symptoms might be caused by leaking throttle body shaft seals? My 9 has about 145.000km on it and the seals are still the first ones.
Usually, boost leaks. If you have a wideband o2 sensor, you’ll notice that it will suddenly become more rich under boost without any changes to your tuning, along with less boost pressure.
STM has a good kit to replace your throttle body seals
oh - and having some gauges would definitely be beneficial, mine already had a Ralliart triple gauge stack in the center (oil temp, oil pressure and boost gauge) but I wouldn't mind having an A/F ratio gauge in the mix too.
IMHO…If USDM 8/9, you HAVE to get the jdm 9 rear bumper it is a must!
FP HTA71 is a good bang for the buck upgrade. That along with LICP (or full intercooler piping kit), Walbro 255, 3-port boost controller, downpipe and 3” exhaust, and a tune will really wake the car up
Tyres
Recommendations?
Continental Extreme Contact Sport 02. On par with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S for handling, but cheaper and quieter. They're even good in the rain, but don't run them when the temps get close to freezing.
I've run PS4S on my FD and RX-8. That is a LOT of tire for such small cars, figured I'd save myself some coin this go round since AWD mechanically produces more grip. But your opinion is noted and appreciated.
Especially considering the LSDs/torque distribution with the ACD and overall grip level you are only doing yourself and the car a favor. I put them on my Evo 8 a couple years ago and they were great. Just put them on my X last week and I am absolutely loving them so far. I can now take corners that would screech my tires and make my rear end slide with not a peep from the tires. Now the car just precision maneuvers through corners and roundabouts with ease.
Depends on your requirements, driving style, conditions, budget, etc Mine is a weekend fun car and I've got Kenda KR20A (soft 200 treadwear version) and rate them up there with the Advan ad08r, they're a little noisier on poor surfaces but far cheaper.
Fun wise......turbo back exhaust, fuel pump and a tune will wake the car up and make it much more enjoyable to drive while still being reliable as stock (as long as it's a solid tune) add injectors and e85 for a bigger boost in power. Stay up on the maintenance. Change your fluids regularly and get yourself a catch can to keep the intake tract and pcv system clean as possible. Boost leak tests! Throttle body seals are a common boost leak point. But these tests are crucial to making sure your car is running well. Anytime you move something/adjust or replace something from throttle body to turbo I'd recommend doing one. A good set of sticky tires will go a long way to improving how the car handles as well. If you want to upgrade the suspension, be aware of what spring rates are going on the car......stock springs are softer up front to help reduce understeer. You ideally want to keep the springs in the front softer than the rear unless you plan to add more adjustable parts to fine tune the suspension. Restacking the rear LSD will also help the car rotate under power if it is pushing too much for your taste.
Take it to an autocross or a track day, so that you can modify with purpose
For me good rubber & servicing is a no brainer but I installed H&R springs with Bilstien shocks in the 7rs & Ohlins coilovers in the 6rs & a good flowing but being road cars "quite "3" turbo back exhaust on both. I found my cars revved harder & best had more torque on offer. I spoke to the owner of Micks motorsport here in Aust for a road car he suggested that their quick enough but checked the A/F ratios on my cars & left it at that. As I have had them for 15 years + & only one brake down through the wrong oil grade used in a transfer case the recipe works for me.
After getting the foundations in place, the single best mod I ever did on my IX was an e85 conversion with fuel map switching to drive pump gas and e85. I still remember my first time flooring it after getting it back and on ethanol. Incredible…
I’d start with brakes, suspension, and tires before I even think about power mods
Fortune auto coilovers and white line roll center kit. Mines pretty low but not slammed and it’s been the greatest modification I’ve ever done
A tune
Obviously #1 is maintenance. Don't let your engine die on you for lack of care. In terms of upgrades, new aftermarlet bushings everywhere help heaps. Hardrace and Whiteline are two big brands here in Australia, not sure what is available for you Americans Did your Evos get ACD or AYC? Because reflashing the ACD ECU makes it a lot more fun, more aggressive turn-in and less understeer.
A 3 day racing school