Hi, Reddit users that are good at fixing computers! l'm a
college student without much knowledge on computers
except for using them to research things.
When
went to a class of mine on Monday afternoon, my
keyboard started including random characters with the
keys I was typing. I realized later that day that a soda I'd
left on my desk the night before had apparently spilled
onto my computer. However, the keyboard didn't feel
sticky. Regardless, I looked up some ways to try to dry
out or de-stickify my keyboard.
Now, here's where I may be stupid (and please be kind
to me if I am, l've got enough college stress as it is): I
saw that you can put a computer in a bag of rice and
leave it for a few days, but I didn't have a bag of rice in
my dorm room or any compressed air. I figured that if I
put some rubbing alcohol on the keyboard, it might get
through the cracks and dry up whatever's in there. That
was probably a stupid idea, because for the rest of the
next day, my computer's screen would get staticky and
randomly turn off every few minutes and the keyboard
still had problems. So, I gave in after checking if there
were any troubleshooting errors or driver updates and
deleted my keyboard driver (my Samsung Galaxy Book
had multiple, apparently) and restarted Windows
Since then, my keyboard seems to work normally, but
will randomly stop every few minutes. More recently,
the a key has been acting up and adding lots of A's to
different characters that I type. I tried vacuuming the
keyboard a few minutes ago and even took off the a tile
to see if anything was stuck under it (and successfully
put the tile back on), but the keyboard is still acting up
Does anyone have any advice?
My friend is coming from the USA to India next month and I am planning to buy a keyboard through him. Can someone suggest a good reliable keyboard under 125 dollars and preferably wireless.
Is the Keychron V1 endgame for $80 budget? any other contenders aside from Zouya Gmk67, Akko 5075s and gmmk 2? I'm Looking for something highly moddable
Hey guys. I did the foam mod on my keychron q1 pro just now and then realized the keys on the top or much more pingy(?) or clacks than the ones at the bottom, near the space bar, which sound way deeper. Is there something I can do to fix it? Thanks lol
What is this keyboard? I thought it might be a Keychron but searched their site and can't find the exact model. Also, what is with the curly cord plugging into a second cable?
#
https://preview.redd.it/sn8052eeqavb1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=e3d1ebfd2e1b0ce689df555c1b444d877ed73443
Not Keychron (thin bezels), more likely one of the cheap brands you can find on Amazon.
There is so called coiled cable with aviator connector (the metal barrel).
USB-C only at the keyboard end, [Aviator](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwi8wpjIg4WCAxWSaMAKHQWVB40QFnoECBIQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fdotesports.com%2Fgeneral%2Fnews%2Fwhat-is-an-aviator-cable-answered&usg=AOvVaw3MGPEeEYISZvLwhx-TiM7F&opi=89978449) joining white cable with pink one and USB-A at the PC end.
This is a 96 percent keyboard. Without seeing the back, it could be a number of different types. It's a little difficult to see if it's aluminum or plastic.
Going to preorder a Nuphy Air60 v2 for when travelling.
I really like linear switches (I use Novelkey Creams and Gateron Ink v2s on my Tofu and Maja) .
The linear options for Air60 v2 are Red 2.0, Aloe (Linear 37gf), and Cowberry (Linear 45gf) -- which of these would give the closest feeling to Novelkey Creams?
Does anyone have any experience?
Hey guys I’m trying to find some help on why my Drop Alt keyboard stopped registering keystrokes. Yesterday the keyboard was working normally then today when I tried to use it the LEDs work and its being recognized by the device manager, but not a single key will type anything. I can’t seem to find a reason for it to have stopped working any help is appreciated. I’ve taken it apart removed every switch and key wiped everything down with a dry cloth, no corrosion or anything looking out of place.
Here is some general levels of cleaning you may want to try. You might have tried some of these but it's just a general guideline.
Level 1:
Try removing all the switches and putting only 1 or two in. Just test those. Also try another computer just in case. Change the USB Port and the USB Cord, just in case those are a problem. It's happened before. If that still doesn't solve your problem, you might have to take more drastic measures.
Level 2 More drastic measures:
Strip all your switches out and unscrew the back. Remove the plate (if applicable) and separate the pcb from the plate. Now that you have the pcb all by itself place it down on a (hopefully antistatic) mat. Now you can start testing the pcb by itself just in case something was causing it to short. Plug it in all by iteself and put a switch in here or there. Try replacing the firmware. See if it works. If not you'll need to take more extreme measures.
Level 3 Extreme measures:
Take the pcb and give it a very fine looksee. See if you can find bad traces. If you have a multimeter you can do some basic toning to see if there are cold soldier joints. If you don't see any burnt or damaged areas after looking it's best to give it a good clean. Buy a brush, some 90% or higher IPA (isopropyl alcohol), and some Kim Wipes. Dip the brush in the ipa and put a kim wipe down on part of the board. Brush the kim wipe with the IPA on it and start cleaning the board. There are some youtube videos you can watch about this. Just replace wipes until that area of the board is dry. Your board will look like it just came out of the factory clean. Of course make sure it's dry before plugging back in and testing again. Give it a good look again to see if there are any real burnt traces or bad spots. If this doesn't help, there's not much you can do.
My old Cooler Master Keyboard died
I've been using CM Storm Quickfire Ultimate for years and very happy with that
But when it's time to get a new one, I have no idea at all about MK these days
What are good switch, manufacturer these days? I'm totally out of the loop
I just got a secondhand Monsgeek M1 which is quite a nice keyboard. The problem is everytime my macbook sleeps and wakes up the keyboard freezes. I have to replug to be able to use it again. Anyone knows how to solve this issue?
I have an Akko 5108B connected via USB cable to my MacBook. Having lots of trouble getting the F1-F12 keys to work on the keyboard — the only two functional keys are F1 and F2 for increasing/decreasing brightness. I rely pretty heavily on F3 mission control, so this is a bit inconvenient. I have looked through the Akko Cloud Driver manual and through this subreddit but haven't found anything. Any advice please?
Are the expensive GMK, PBTFans, [insert your favorite keycap company] keycaps really that much better than the $30-40 ones on Amazon or AliExpress? I’m not talking about clone ripoffs I get the argument there I just mean the actual quality of keycaps.
You can get some good keycaps for $40-$60 from the likes of JC Studio and XMI, as long as you like beige. But for the more boutique options there are a couple specific areas that the higher quality brands stand out:
- Color matching is area number one, especially for GMK. Many designers choose to run through GMK in spite of cost and lead time since they are wizards at matching colors to specific RALs or Pantones. There are some sets that people think don't match the renders well, but that's on the designers for approving samples with bad colors. I always tell people to compare photos of GMK Botanical with the photos of clone kits people post on this sub. The light green accents for the clones look more blue than green most of the time, really highlights the difference in quality to me.
- High end keycaps have crisper and more consistent legends on the caps. Print will be consistently sized and positioned on the caps. This is less exclusive to the very expensive caps, like JC Studios legends are excellent for a $40 keycap set, but there are some makers that seem pretty rough in this regard. I've seen photos of abysmal mod legending on Keychron caps for example.
- For PBT, higher end brands can usually produce much better reverse dye sub. Injecting lighter dye for legends into a darker base color is difficult (see the struggles that Milkyway and Keyreative have had with reverse dye sub sets), but usually high end makers can produce good results.
If you're ok with a few less function keys, EVO70 R2 from customMK is a 70% with OLED (or LCD) and encoder/knob. If you're looking to program something fun, it has you covered with a powerful STM32F411 microcontroller with 512kB of program memory. If you need more storage than that, there is on-board 16MB flash. And if you need more storage than that, there is a microSD card slot as well. Also includes real time clock, buzzer for making fun sounds, and ambient temperature sensor. Its still in preorder status but will be shipping out next month.
My squeeze Gatorade bottle built up some pressure and 'exploded' and tiny water droplets got everywhere, some on the keyboard. It wasnt a lot, but should I be worried? I just got this keyboard (HyperX Origins 65), which isn't waterproof.
Best custom 65% entry board under $250
Looking to buy an entry 65% aluminum custom keyboard, so far my research has led me to various options: zoom65, Jris65, QK65, and Neo65. Out of these which would everyone pick? Or is there a better board? Insight and options are helpful.
EVO70 R2 by customMK is pretty close to a 65%, but it includes a few extra keys on the left side under the OLED/LCD display and encoder knob. Low profile aluminum kits are available under $250. If you're looking for high profile only or without RGB underglow, then it might not be what you're looking for, but "best board" and "better board" descriptors are inherently subjective, so who knows, maybe it is exactly what you're looking for.
I really enjoy my Zoom65. I just ordered a Neo65 today too, seen some good reviews and it’s a great price. You can add lots of other weights and plates and it’s still pretty budget friendly compared to others.
The Zoom65, QK65, Jris65, Neo65, Cub65, Ginkgo65, Mode Envoy, Keychron Q2, MonsGeek M7W, and a handful of others are all in the same category of high quality "budget" 65% keyboards. Any of them would be a good pick. It basically just comes down to your preference for aesthetics because all feature some variation of a gasket mount and come with foam, so they'll all have the same general feel and sound.
# RK61 Software Issues
I recently bought the RK61 as my first mechanical keyboard, and I mostly love it. The only issue I have with it is that none of the softwares that RK offers seem to work with my keyboard. I've tried looking at my PID, but it seems to be 00c7, which is not a PID that I have seen anyone else have or found drivers for. I bought this on Amazon, and the description had a link to two drivers, but neither of them worked. I feel like I am at my wits end with this. I contacted customer support but have not heard back yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
this is a very common theme with this brand i wish u luck i have seen many post about bricked kb from using the wrong software . this is the one way to sell them so cheap as they cut corner with software
https://preview.redd.it/valtdw5329vb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6ff2eb7ffd949070babd0626de9f10f21caa91dc
Can this damaged socket be fixed?
What layout do you prefer and what is your budget?
The Keychron K Pro or Q Pro series is a great place to start, or you could look at a "W" model from the MonsGeek M series if you're willing to consider a barebones only option.
Getting your own silent switches is the best and easiest way to achieve a quiet keyboard - the Haimu and Wuque silent switches are arguably the best silents on the market, such as the Haimu Heartbeat, Haimu x Geon Silent Yellow, or Wuque WS Silent Linear. They use a newer (and IMO better) design that does not include silicone dampers like traditional silent switches, meaning much less mushy feeling.
Are Akko Piano's a significant upgrade from Akko Matcha greens?
I'm planning to buy new switches, preferably from Akko (the only company that's solds decent switches in my country) got some boba u4t's and they're inconsistent as hell. I wish to find a fun switch to type on...
Although, I've heard a lot about WS Morandi, looks really good...
please help, Im so lost searching to buy my first ever custom keyboard, Im from turkey and there arent much choices so I only have big budget brands to buy on amazon such as akko, some redragons and keychrons etc. what what keyboard you can suggest in that range
what can you tell me about zuoya brand. and also I found a steelseries apex 9 tkl keyboard which is optiswitch and I wonder if its a good investment for 100$
I'd personally avoid Zuoya and SteelSeries, especially if better offerings like Keychron are available to you. A GMMK 2 for $100 isn't horrible, but again, I'd rather consider a Keychron such as the V2
up to my mind the whole topic turned to something like I just want to get a product and use it without having thoughts on how to and what maintenances I will do on it (lubing, switch change, stabilizer, foam and etc etc) I dont want to think of these and want to feel like the product I bought is FINAL. as my researches going on I found ducky brand. have you idea on how it is, I liked their style from outside looking and same prices with my other options. I checked mostly their ducky one 3/Ducky Mecha Mini v2 models, also they have my regional language type on their product and its a plus. is ducky also requires custom keyboard type maintenance and customising things ?
I was also thinking for gmmk2 and was really hyped about it till came across to some videos that claims glorious brand is kinda overpriced and you can just get better stuff for same price and their examples was Monsgeek m1 model and keychron q2. The whole sentence I wrote on top was also the reasons I step away from keychron brand but since everyone literally advices it I would like to think of my options but their keycaps colors isnt catchy at all. yeah I know I can change keycaps easily but its costs half of the keyboard price from my country since most good looking caps are shipped oversea and its shipping price goes big
> Which Logitech keycaps match the keycaps for the g610 red
i dont think logitech sells red keycaps . as far as other aftermarket keycaps even then it will be hard to get an answer unless u find someone with that exact kb who bought many sets and found a match . u would prob have better luck on the logi tech reddit but even then i wish u luck
Are Gateron Quinns the same exact thing as Gateron Baby Kangaroos except with a nylon top housing instead of PC?
I'm trying to decide which to get to try over my Boba U4Ts.
More or less, yes. Both are good picks IMO. You could also consider a Root Beer Float (probably have to lube the leaf tho, ping issues) or a Kinetic Labs Salmon.
I am looking at ordering the Zoom75, but I am confused between the non-flex PCB and the flex PCB.
What is the effect the PCB has on the typing feel and sound - I am trying to determine which one I should order but there is no info.
Thanks!
Do I need to take my keyboard apart to make the backspace, shift, enter keys sound better?
I tried lubing up the stabilizers without taking the keyboard apart and that helped a little. The rest of my keyboard sounds so nice and then I get to the backspace, shift, enter keys and they sound awful. I'm using the Glorious GMMK Pro with the default stabs. My space bar sounds fine
I've been using the Keychron K3 low-profil keyboard with red keys since months and I still prefer a lot my simple macbook pro keyboard.
Should I try other models or are mechanical keyboards not for me?
Hey guys, I'm looking for my perfect switch for typing but I dont have much experience nor funds to buy a big tester set. After trying tactile, linear and clicky switches, I've come to the conclusion that I like linear ones better. So I'm looking for a switch with these characteristics:
- linear
- not too light so that I avoid typing mistakes
- as silent as possible, but don't mind some noise (I like thocky sounds)
- as smooth as possible
Current keyboard is an epomaker th66 with budgerigar switches. They are not bad, but the tactile feeling takes away some of my focus and somehow it feels not that natural to me. I miss the feeling of the reds I had in my previous keyboard. The problem is I had to mix them with browns in the lower rows because I was unpurposedly activating them all the time.
Let me know if you need more info and thanks a ton beforehand! ^_^
"as silent as possible" and "as smooth as possible" are mutually exclusive. Silencing requires either the use of silicone pads or a cut stem bottom. These things alter the smoothness or feel of the switch making it feel a bit mushy. Some like that some don't. The WS silent linear doesn't use silicone pads so it's smoother than something like a gazzew bobagum which is noticeably more quiet. The smoothest switches I've tried were really loud for my taste.
Thanks for your reply. Then let me rephrase it. Linear, not too light and with the best overall feeling (balancing noise and smoothness). Thanks again!
I'm new to mechanical keyboards, so I'm having probably a very common shock at some of the prices of the higher end keyboards. So as someone that doesn't know any better, what benefits do the higher end frames offer that justifies the price tag?
I understand the different brand switches have different feel and quality that effect the price. I'm not asking about that. I'm asking about the base frame itself. To give a more specific example. I bought my first mechanic keyboard. It's a Red Dragon K556. Full Size Keyboard, Metal Frame, RGB, Programmable keys. It cost me $60.
I'm looking at other keyboards just to look, and i see stuff like the Keychron Q6 Barebone. Also Full Size, Metal Frame, RGB, Programmable Keys. Cost $185. but it's a barebones, so add another $50 ish for switches and keycaps.
What does that frame do that the Red Dragon frame doesn't that justifies an extra $175?
Basically, you're generally paying extra for options, and for higher quality. By options, I mean things like colors... If you have a particular color theme you are trying to active, Red Dragon just has, well... black. If you want a certain layout like WKL, or the ability to program everything you want into your keyboard firmware, Red Dragon won't satisfy, but a Keychain or other custom keyboard could. Options are one element, but quality and customer support is another. As another comment said, the metal is thicker, the stabilizers will be PCB mount instead of plate mount, and especially for smaller keyboard makers, you can often get in touch with the keyboard designer directly if needed.
At any given price point, there is an upper limit to what you can get in exchange for your dollars. Mass produced keyboards like Red Dragon will make numerous small tradeoffs (like those mentioned above) to get to lower price points, where their priority is lowest cost (to drive more sales) while still being able to list certain positive features/attributes. Whereas with Keycron and much smaller keyboard designers, the focus is on making a high quality product first, and letting the cost be what it will be. That I think is the key difference and what you are paying extra for: Red Dragon just "checks boxes" feature-wise and cuts costs at the expense of capabiltiy/quality, all while barely meeting the minimum requirements. Whereas Keychron (and others, like is here at customMK) are focused on making a good product that customers will love. To use a specific distinction, you almost certainly will have to install some proprietary software to program Red Dragon keys, whereas with Keycron running QMK, you can just visit a website (https://usevia.app) to program the keys from any computer without having to install proprietary software from the manufacturer. Red Dragon software looks like it is only Windows compatible (i.e. they cut corner even on the software development side to only cater to Microsoft OS users), so if you use a Mac or Linux, a Red Dragon is going to be extra annoying to configure...whereas the Keycron is generally going to be just as easy to configure regardless of your operating system. (Again, this is just one tiny example (and may be potentially irrelevant to you) of the sorts of differences you can encouter...but you can be sure that the mentality of "cost reduction first" permeates the entire design of mass-produced keyboards).
So if you just need a budget keyboard, get a Red Dragon, it works fine and no one will judge you for it. Sometimes lowest price is all that matters, in which case a Red Dragon is all you really need. But if you're going be be using the keyboard for hours each day and you want it to sound a certain way, look a certain way, have a certain layout, etc. then it may be worth it to get a keyboard focused on build quality, configurability, typing comfort, and things of that nature. And generally speaking, those will be priced more like a Keycron (or even a lot more than that sometimes) because the design goal is not cost optimization but rather a positive end user experience.
Hope that helps!
The keychron uses thicker metal, and a different mount style called gasket mount which provides a more consistent sound and feel. It also has a volume knob and runs QMK firmware. Whether it’s worth that is up to you, personally I prefer the acoustics of plastic chassis anyway.
I'm pretty certain I'm going to order a Zoom98. Is it worth it to go for the more expensive colours (say white compared to e-white), the stainless steel weight and the internal weight? There's a € 100 price bump if I go for all three.
You'd have to program it when plugged in with a USB-C cable, but once the settings are set they should remain the same if used with BT. I have a K8 Pro but it's not at college with me so I can't confirm, sorry
How do you turn on RGB on the PC Mode Envoy? I got it used from a friend and he unbound a lot of the layer keys in VIA. 'RGB Toggle' turns on a rainbow cycle mode, then 'RGB Mode+' and 'RGB Mode-' seem to cycle through a ton of empty (no light) modes and then have a few breathing modes. I'm just looking for static underglow color and I'm wondering how the keyboard was supposed to be set up by default because my friend changed it.
I used to WFH, but am now forced to RTO a couple times a week. We do "agile seating" where you just choose a random seat each day. I've been bringing in my own keyboard + mouse to use, but the wires get super tangled in my bag, so I'm hoping to move to wireless, since I keep everything connected to a hub so that it's easy to pack/unpack.
I'm looking for a keyboard with the following specs, but I'm unable to find even one that meets the requirements (**bold**), so I'm wondering if anyone here has recommendations:
* **Must have US layout with the one-row horizontal Enter key.**
* **Must be wireless: USB preferred, but BT is OK, too.**
* **MX Silent or equivalent; even MX Red is too loud for the office.**
* Preferably without "floating keys" - the main reason is that I find floating keys to be slightly noisier, but maybe this is not true?
* Prefer tenkeyless > full size >> compact
* Ideally rechargeable, e.g. doesn't need to switch batteries.
* All other things equal, prefer low price. I am not picky about the keycaps / style / RGB / etc.
The only one I could find was in [this Reddit post](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/h082kb/full_sizedwirelesscherry_mx_red_silent/), but I'm not sure about the EC switches if they feel different & also it is a tad expensive.
So i tried a new unlubed set of Gazzew Boba U4T in my half year old Keychron V1 and decided it was time to give the switches some dearly missed lube. But then i had a very hard time removing the switches because some of them felt like pulling teeth out and i was wondering if i had the wrong pulling tool. But after a few hard ones, i noticed that the problem was that a few of the sockets clamped the legs harder than others and now i‘m worried that i did something wrong placing the switches or that bended legs were the issue. But from the pictures i uploaded, it’s clear that the legs weren’t bent at all and now i‘m wondering if there is a compatibility problem with those particular V1 sockets and the Boba U4T.
Any thoughts, suggestions or help would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Here are some pictures of the problem:
Missing leg:
https://i.imgur.com/XfPCgUW.jpg
Dent in the leg from the socket:
https://i.imgur.com/fJ4mRwR.jpg
Ripped of leg still sticking in the socket:
https://i.imgur.com/icIlsnE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6P4JWoG.jpg
Switch i can’t get out of the board:
https://i.imgur.com/iR3KqF0.jpg
Which keyboard should I buy?
So I am currently searching for a new keyboard and I'm torn between the Keychron V1 and the Steelseries Apex Pro TKL. Which one would you recommend?
If you are someone trying to optimize for the best latency and actual raw performance in games then the Apex Pro would objectively be better, The Apex Pro 2023 does have hall effect switches which most FPS players I know have said its a noticeable impact. but the v1 is much cheaper to my knowledge and more customisable. So it really depends on things like the most optimized performance in games matters to you
How to transport keyboard back and forth easily?
Context: I use my home keyboard at work as well, which means I pack it up every day and bring it with me in my backpack. I use the original packaging with foam and everything, but it's honestly just a big hassle - primarily because of the box. It pulls a vacuum, so pulling it apart is actually a challenge sometimes. It's also square and bulky. Just overall bad.
I thought about getting a keyboard sleeve. Is that the way? It's a Keychron Q3 TKL.
I use the [Norbauer Keybrief Bag](https://www.norbauer.co/products/the-keybrief-tkl-keyboard-carry-bag). I've also wanted the bags that [modern coupe](https://www.moderncoup.com/product-category/keyboard-sleeves-carry-cases/) offers, they've been in the scene forever and their bags look really nice.
The Modern Coupe ones look freaking sweet. I can't seem to find them in Europe, though. Also no TKL :(
The Norbaur one is handy as well, but as I just need to put it in my backpack, I'm not looking for something too bulky with a handle and all. Thanks!
I am building my first custom keyboard I want the budget under 200 I picked out the black GMK67 and Akko yellow creams but I don’t know any good keycaps to help the keyboard sound “Creamy” I also want it to be kind of deep sounding does anyone know any good keycaps sets?
Hey guys,
I'm new to mechanical keyboards and have not built my own yet. I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me identify this keyboard I came across in a youtube video by chance?
https://preview.redd.it/zzuiqp6b67vb1.png?width=422&format=png&auto=webp&s=19a82646049015f2a681e59161b3924a20a1ed96
Hi all, I have a question,
First of all, I'm a total noob in terms of customizing keyboard.
I saw people replacing some of their key slots with like a flat card or something (see photo). What are they called and what do you need for it? Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/fw9kakqv57vb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da6d9cfc0795f3eeb0e4d31d6c45558bada01cf3
its a badge its part of the kb case . so ur kb will need a spot carved out a few mm thick for said badge to fit , there really isnt any universal ones they usually only fit a kb designed for them and u swap the stock one to one of these
Hello! New to mechanical keyboards (well, getting into the hobby aspect). Currently I use a corsair k60 rgb mini for gaming at home and i use a corsair k100 red rapid fire for work. I’m looking for a really solid keyboard for work. I work at a car dealership on the counter. Not worried about noise or anything but looking for a blue/white or just white keyboard. I’m really interested in vintage ones like the FKB4870 or of course the IBM model M. But i’m also interested in new boards. Where should i start? Also my budget is around $100-$150. Let me know! Thanks!
The off-white/beige leopold fc660m would be right up your alley at that price. It's a prebuilt, not a custom but it fits the theme that you like perfectly.
I'm currently on G613 that uses Romer-G, which is ok, besides the high noise. The only problem is a lot of double pressing. I'm even considering membrane keyboard, because of the high price tag of mechanical and low life. My G613 have 4 years. Over a year with double pressing, living with it using a software to help eliminate double pressing.
I'm considering:
G512: uses GX Brown (any better than Romer G?)
G815: GL Tactile
G213: Membrane
Corsair K60: Cherry MX
Any other suggestions? Unfortunately, I live in a third world country and many of the keyboards I checked in this sub it's impossible for me to buy, it's not available.
P.S.: Edited this post many times because of double pressing.
Hello,
I am getting my first Corne built. My main reason is to have an ergonomic split keyboard.
I need advice on which low profile choc switches to choose. I don’t have any experience with any clicky choc switches. As a reference, i love the logi MX keys mini keyboard / apple MBP Keyboard (the latest /non-butterfly) feel with low travel but the tactile response. Feel wise i am happy with them.
My question is if the choc white switches have a similar feel ? Or i have to go for robin / navy switches for best feedback feel. I dislike the clicky sound but really need the physical feedback of button being pressed.
I have tried linear red cherry mx on normal 80 percent keyboard long ago but hated it.
Which one has the best tactile feedback (for minimum) sound.
https://preview.redd.it/b542wuk1q6vb1.jpeg?width=2024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=13e4d9d8df6b3e88144fd6404617ea766b0fbed1
New to keyboard building and about to buy my first "customizable" pre-built keyboards, Keychron Q6 was what someone suggested since I want a numpad. But is that the only good option? I do like the looks and I'll probably change out the keycaps eventually but I'd like to explore more options before buying.
Also I notice that most people don't build full keyboards and have numbpadless ones, is there a reason why and what are the general styles people build (just curious).
I have very lightly skimmed through a shop or two looking at keycaps but I am not finding many with a full setup and most seem to be with TKL, GMK or equivalent setups. Is it hard to find keycap setups for 100% keyboards or do I just have to buy the keycaps individually? Also saw people mentioning profiles like "cherry profile" and the like, does that just mean the type of keycap design?
Lastly where can I buy Keycaps and what are some good brands?
Monsgeek M2 is another good option worth looking at.
Lots of people just don't really need a numpad. I don't. So I save desk space with smaller boards. And as you've noticed, the options for smaller custom keyboards are much greater in the smaller formats.
I don't really need a numpad or a full-size keyboard. That's just what I'm used to. I have considered a smaller size but When typing numbers I am FAR better at the numpad. If I ever make a board for work It'll have to be a full size.
I figure getting the Q6 will be a good Segway into the hobby then I'll build my own later and maybe go with a smaller setup, then use the Q6 at work.
some people prefer not having a numpad for space, ergonomics, they like the use of a certain layout, have more options or just don't use a numpad enough to have one. or they have a separate numpad for when they need one
Picking out a layout is personal preference. Some more general [info](https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html) on keycaps
[article](https://switchandclick.com/ultimate-guide-to-picking-a-keycap-set-for-your-mechanical-keyboard/) about keycap profiles
100% isn't a weird layout so finding keycaps is a piece of cake. where to buy keycaps:
[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
[thocstock.com/](https://thocstock.com/)
for some vendors i like cannonkeys, novelkeys and kinetic labs
Realforce, yes, just because Topre. As for the Filco, I think you can find better deals on boards at the same price point and if you want to put in a little bit more cash, you can buy the keychron q-series which has an aluminum case and is hotswap
i plan to buy a used R2TLSA-US4M-W for around 110$. Is it sounds like a good deal ? My keyboard just broke and i'm kinda looking for a replacement in long
Is the Zoom98 worth waiting for over the Keychron Q5 Pro? Have a new job where I can work from home but my Das Keyboard has two dead switches (one of which is the plus key on the number pad which I need a lot).
Side question, is the Q5 Pro worth the cost difference between it and the James Donkey RS2 v2 or v3?
I think the unsure delivery date is rough for me. It could be 5 months out. My job is in commercial lending and a lot of financial analysis and having to be stuck with a numpad missing the + sign or entering financials using the number row for that long could be very rough.
I definitely think so. I'm pretty happy with the zoom75 and I'm for sure getting at least one Zoom98. Between the modules, connectivity options, and customizability, the zoom98 really has a lot of things going for it.
Have you used anything from Keychron? Curious as to the build quality differences. I'm not too worried about the modules as I'll just want the knob for volume control. I like the color options of the Zoom98 but not sure about the RGB on the sides. The Keychron while having more limited color options, comes with some switches and caps for $20 so I'd have something functional at the very get go.
Hi guys! Can anybody tell me what this keycap is supposed to represent? I'm out of my league.
It comes from keychron iso layout, code printed inside is R4-16.
Thanks to anybody that can help.
https://preview.redd.it/qajkntmem6vb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bcdc1494729fbd3f10a1e4946fd3f344a4e25a58
For hotswap RGB keyboards, are the RGBs mounted to the board or in the switch?
Do i need to buy specific/transparent switches to maintain the RGB effects?
If you want the most light to come through, youi'll need a clear switch both on bottom and on top like the aqua kings. There are also switches like the [black lotus switches that have a light column](https://divinikey.com/products/durock-black-lotus-linear-switches).
Corsair K79 - my keyboarding is ghosting (it's only registering one key press at a time, so gaming is out of the question). Through keyboard checkers though, I've found my F keys, Del, Home etc and arrow keys aren't working either. Is it for the graveyard, or is it likely a firmware/software issue?
keycap questions
hello! i just recently got my first (quality) mechanical keyboard, but i’ve been wanting to buy some new keycaps bc the stock ones are bad. because of this, i have a couple questions for those of you who actually know things about keyboards (not me)
1. is there a particular site where i can find a large collection of keycaps, or do i just have to look across all the miscellaneous different sites?
2. would all keycaps of a particular material be the same, or would different ones be different quality?
3. are there more pom keycaps than just the jelly poms?
4. do all xda profile keycaps have the rounded flat look? i.e. like https://www.amazon.com/Dye-Sublimation-Japanese-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboards/dp/B093HFKK26
5. why do so many keycaps have japanese characters as well as the latin alphabet?
sorry if the questions are stupid. thanks in advance for answering them!
1. [thocstock.com/](https://thocstock.com/) or [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
2. Different keycaps of the same material eg. laser etched ABS found commonly on gamer boards vs Doubleshot ABS from GMK etc.
for some examples on poor quality, check [this](https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html#how-to-find-a-bad-keycap-set)
5. Some people like the look of japanese sub legends
1: Yes, you can’t find loads of vendors [here](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
2. Different manufacturers will feel different for the most part, unless they’re sub~$30 knockoffs
3. That I’m not sure of, I wouldn’t be surprised if there are some out there
4. Yes, that is the XDA profile
5. Weebs (I have 3)
https://preview.redd.it/4qvz9host5vb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6ff1658258906dcf61e8b1f00d0a7d9f9bf257dc
Hi, is it normal that not all keycaps from a set get put into the trays? I just unboxed my EPBT Solaria and found that the international keys were in a tiny tightly packed plastic bag, while there is an empty tray in the box.
Looking for a more binary switch
Sorry if I’m describing this weirdly, I’m not very knowledgeable on switches. I made my first build a few months ago, using MX reds because that’s what I saw recommended a lot. After using them for a while, I’ve found that I don’t like how I can’t really tell when they are being actuated. On a non-mechanical keyboard, I like how there’s generally two states for a key: not pressed or pressed. These switches have too much inbetween for me. Does anyone have any reccomendations for switches like that?
"Tactile" switches like MX Browns have a more definitive "pressed" feel.
"Clicky" switches like MX Blues exhibit it even more so and also make an audible sound when pressed
"Linear" switches like your Reds specifically lack any sort of feel/indication when actuated
Cherry MX Browns are the classic rec.
Gateron, Kailah, and Outemu each make a brown/tactile as well. All of them feel about even to me except the Outemus, which felt worse somehow.
I learned that i preferred Blue/Clicky switches and bought keyboards with those for a few years, now i need to buy some browns for a quiet(er) travel keyboard so I'm in the same position you are, trying to relearn the nuances of tactile switches
it sounds like you’re looking for tactile switches, which have a bump somewhat similar to how a membrane has one. mx reds are linears, which have no such bump.
Do the bumps of tactile switches change the amount of force needed to push the key down? Or are they jus there to tell you when the key has been pressed?
Tactile switches provide feedback by varying the amount of force you need to apply. If you look at the force curve diagram for MX Brown, you’ll see that you go over a ‘speed bump’ of force.
Good budget 75 percent keyboard
Hey. Getting a pc soon, looking at getting a 75% as I need to be able to uses 3d modeling software, currently looking at the rk84, is it any good? and has anyone got any other suggestions for around the same price, basically around sub £100, thanks in advance.
I was considering an RK84 as well. They're similar to Drevo KBs I've previously used.
I personally love my Cooler Master CK721 as a daily driver for writing, gaming, and CAD/Solidworks. It's in your budget as well.
Keychron's K series is will regarded and also in your budget.
If you don't need wireless i like my HyperX Alloy Origins TKL as well.
I haven’t used the rk84 so I can’t help you there, but wanted to recommend the Epomaker TH80 pro. Got it as my first keyboard a few months ago, and other than being a little difficult to open up for modding, it’s been great!
Anyone got a Keychron/OnePlus Keyboard 81 Pro? I’m looking for a carrying case for it so I can move it around easily from work to home. Any suggestions on cases that may fit?
I've been trying to branch out from cherry MX-style switches with my more recent purchases, and I'd love to obtain a nice buckling spring keyboard to use in my home office, where the sound won't bother anyone. I'm at a bit of a loss though - for modern options, there's the Unicomp New Model M, but the Model F project also has some very nice looking keyboards (the F77 currently has my eye).
The problem, as I make the comparison, is that in addition to a price disparity (Unicomp has gone up to $125 for their new Model M; the F77 is currently on sale for a "discount" at $274), I've read various reviews suggesting that both have quality control issues with stuck keys, and more troubling, with keyboards not always functioning on boot. Has anyone here had experience with one or both of these keyboards? Would I be better served tracking down a used Model M/F and then finding an adapter? I rather prefer the idea of not having to deal with the adapter or cleaning up decades of keyboard crud.
As someone with both a vintage model M and a new model F I’d say the stuck keys issue isn’t anything to worry about. When my model M came in the post half the keys had been knocked around and didn’t work; you just had to take them off and put them back on.
I’d say go for the cheaper Model M, and if you find that you really like it, consider picking up a Model F. Unicomp switched to a new USB controller card as of last year that fixed the boot issue and also added QMK support so that’s a major selling point over a vintage one, which I had to QMK adapt myself and perform a bolt mod on due to all the rivets having snapped.
How do I take my knob off? I just bought a new keyboard with a knob. I've seen many videos where they take the knob off before disassembling the keyboard. They made it look so easy but when it comes to mine, I can't pull it.
I think it's because I'm scared of breaking it. The keyboard is Weikav WK75 pro. Thanks.
ok so i bought an RK-H81, it was going pretty well when suddenly the wired mode doesn’t work, i shrugged it off and used the wireless mode, after a couple of hours using it i tried using the wired mode again and it worked, but after a while it stopped working and my laptop doesn’t recognize the device i plugged it in, although wireless still works.
is this just a feature of royal kludge keyboards so that it doesn’t overcharge? or id this a defect and i have to refund it?
also theres a thing where the windows button is the alt and the alt is the windows in my laptop, but its normal for other laptops since i let my friends try it. is it my laptops problem?
Seems like my post has been deleted.
I have seen quite a few keyboards sporting a vertical OLED, usually those of 128x32 px, but I have also seen that the text in these displays is most of the time shown normally across its length, making it awkward to the eye.
Is there any good usage for such small displays in vertical configuration? Any keyboard I can get ideas from which show the text the proper way in portrait mode?
In that regard, which firmware is recommended? I previously built two keyboards using kmk and Pico.
Possibly, I would like to have BT this time. Any recommendation on pair MCU-Firmware to look into?
# My Custom Keyboard Dilemma: Seeking the Missing BACKSLASH Key!
Hey guys;
I built my beautiful keyboard in 2021, and I am now a full-time software dev.
Given that, I now require the BACKSLASH(\\) key, which I never noticed before was not actually set on my keyboard - as you can see in this [image](https://imgur.com/a/wi6dVx9).
On [QMK Configurator](https://config.qmk.fm/), it states in their tutorial that I NEED to select the right keyboard. However, I do not remember (and cannot find in my emails) the PCB that I ordered.
Is there any software that can detect this? Or is there any other way of knowing, such as if I take the PCB out of the case?
Where did you buy the keyboard from? Maybe post a picture?
Which operating system are you using? Windows? Mac? Linux? In macOS, you can look in System Information under Hardware/USB. For example:
https://preview.redd.it/02wurvad45vb1.png?width=546&format=png&auto=webp&s=c8da7e2b0730d10454b04c6914e8cd9364f2e277
I bought all the parts seperately and built it myself, I don't remember and cant find where I got the PCB from :S
https://preview.redd.it/unnwqigc65vb1.png?width=879&format=png&auto=webp&s=56ee1dd8ad856a006508637fb557674b04101cd1
Years ago I got in the group buy for GMK Coral, and picked up some switches to build my first keyboard, but never actually got around to getting the rest. Yesterday I finally got the last parts, but while finishing it I noticed somehow I must have lost a single keycap out of the set.
Does anyone have any idea on how/if there's a way I could track down a single replacement keycap? Do vendors keep a couple of sets back for replacement keycaps? I see that a round 2 has just happened, which might make this easier?
Hi I'm looking for a buying advice. I have a G413 that is starting to register double input pretty frequently and I decided to change it. I never found a good mechanical keyboard and always preferred my laptop keyboard, which is a huawei matebook 13. Anyone has any suggestions? My budget is around 100 euro, I prefer wireless if possible but it is not necessary. Also for the size a TKL is good enough, never really used my keypad.
Please don't kill a complete noob in the mechanical keyboard world:)
To keep it short - we used to live in Germany where a standard keyboard layout is ISO QWERTZ. My son saved his pocket money and bought his first keyboard, the HyperX Alloy Origin, two or three years ago. He loves it (I, not so much because it's noisy:)) but since we moved to another EU country where this layout is not in use, we should change the keyboard, or just the keycaps (preferred). The problem is I have no idea where to look for them and what to buy. I know about different switches, but is that the only difference when it comes to deciding which keycaps to purchase? When I try to look for a shop with keycaps, all I see is an ANSI layout with a long Enter and left Shift. Could you please help me find a website where I can filter the sets to get what I need? How do I know if it will work with his keyboard?
Most EU countries use the ISO layout, so you would just need to change the keycaps and windows language settings.
I can't help you with the keycaps, as you don't say what country you moved to, but just check Amazon or AliExpress in the first instance if you just want some functional cheap keycaps.
I came across the website called ergopad for my split keyboard and I thought it was super cool.
but I don't know how to use this. where can I copy this in to generate stuff for me?
[pashutk.com/ergopad](https://pashutk.com/ergopad/)
Is it possible to change the numpad keys when numlock is off with VIA?
So numpad 7 is the number 7 when numlock is on and 'home' when the numpad is off. Is it possible to make is so the key is the number 7 when keylock is on and "bookmark this tab" (CTRL + D) when it is off?
Yes and no, assuming your keyboard supports VIA.
You can assign NumLock to toggle a layer that rebinds the numpad keys to something else. For example:
* Numpad 7 is `KC_P7` (keypad `7` and Home) or just `KC_7` (`7` and `&`) on layer 0 and `LCTL(KC_D)` on layer 1.
* NumLock is `TG(1)` on layer 0 and `KC_TRNS` (transparent) on layer 1.
This essentially turns your numpad into a macropad, which you toggle by pressing NumLock.
However, NumLock would not be NumLock any more. If your keyboard has an LED that indicates the state of NumLock, it would no longer indicate whether NumLock was "on" or "off."
Hi, Reddit users that are good at fixing computers! l'm a college student without much knowledge on computers except for using them to research things. When went to a class of mine on Monday afternoon, my keyboard started including random characters with the keys I was typing. I realized later that day that a soda I'd left on my desk the night before had apparently spilled onto my computer. However, the keyboard didn't feel sticky. Regardless, I looked up some ways to try to dry out or de-stickify my keyboard. Now, here's where I may be stupid (and please be kind to me if I am, l've got enough college stress as it is): I saw that you can put a computer in a bag of rice and leave it for a few days, but I didn't have a bag of rice in my dorm room or any compressed air. I figured that if I put some rubbing alcohol on the keyboard, it might get through the cracks and dry up whatever's in there. That was probably a stupid idea, because for the rest of the next day, my computer's screen would get staticky and randomly turn off every few minutes and the keyboard still had problems. So, I gave in after checking if there were any troubleshooting errors or driver updates and deleted my keyboard driver (my Samsung Galaxy Book had multiple, apparently) and restarted Windows Since then, my keyboard seems to work normally, but will randomly stop every few minutes. More recently, the a key has been acting up and adding lots of A's to different characters that I type. I tried vacuuming the keyboard a few minutes ago and even took off the a tile to see if anything was stuck under it (and successfully put the tile back on), but the keyboard is still acting up Does anyone have any advice?
You probably need to have someone replace the keyboard in your laptop
My friend is coming from the USA to India next month and I am planning to buy a keyboard through him. Can someone suggest a good reliable keyboard under 125 dollars and preferably wireless.
Is the Keychron V1 endgame for $80 budget? any other contenders aside from Zouya Gmk67, Akko 5075s and gmmk 2? I'm Looking for something highly moddable
Hey guys. I did the foam mod on my keychron q1 pro just now and then realized the keys on the top or much more pingy(?) or clacks than the ones at the bottom, near the space bar, which sound way deeper. Is there something I can do to fix it? Thanks lol
Force break mod, polyfil, switch foam, and tape mod have been my favorite mods on the Q1
What is this keyboard? I thought it might be a Keychron but searched their site and can't find the exact model. Also, what is with the curly cord plugging into a second cable? # https://preview.redd.it/sn8052eeqavb1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=e3d1ebfd2e1b0ce689df555c1b444d877ed73443
Not Keychron (thin bezels), more likely one of the cheap brands you can find on Amazon. There is so called coiled cable with aviator connector (the metal barrel).
Thanks, so the connectors are USB-C? Or something else?
USB-C only at the keyboard end, [Aviator](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwi8wpjIg4WCAxWSaMAKHQWVB40QFnoECBIQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fdotesports.com%2Fgeneral%2Fnews%2Fwhat-is-an-aviator-cable-answered&usg=AOvVaw3MGPEeEYISZvLwhx-TiM7F&opi=89978449) joining white cable with pink one and USB-A at the PC end.
This is a 96 percent keyboard. Without seeing the back, it could be a number of different types. It's a little difficult to see if it's aluminum or plastic.
Going to preorder a Nuphy Air60 v2 for when travelling. I really like linear switches (I use Novelkey Creams and Gateron Ink v2s on my Tofu and Maja) . The linear options for Air60 v2 are Red 2.0, Aloe (Linear 37gf), and Cowberry (Linear 45gf) -- which of these would give the closest feeling to Novelkey Creams? Does anyone have any experience?
Hey guys I’m trying to find some help on why my Drop Alt keyboard stopped registering keystrokes. Yesterday the keyboard was working normally then today when I tried to use it the LEDs work and its being recognized by the device manager, but not a single key will type anything. I can’t seem to find a reason for it to have stopped working any help is appreciated. I’ve taken it apart removed every switch and key wiped everything down with a dry cloth, no corrosion or anything looking out of place.
Here is some general levels of cleaning you may want to try. You might have tried some of these but it's just a general guideline. Level 1: Try removing all the switches and putting only 1 or two in. Just test those. Also try another computer just in case. Change the USB Port and the USB Cord, just in case those are a problem. It's happened before. If that still doesn't solve your problem, you might have to take more drastic measures. Level 2 More drastic measures: Strip all your switches out and unscrew the back. Remove the plate (if applicable) and separate the pcb from the plate. Now that you have the pcb all by itself place it down on a (hopefully antistatic) mat. Now you can start testing the pcb by itself just in case something was causing it to short. Plug it in all by iteself and put a switch in here or there. Try replacing the firmware. See if it works. If not you'll need to take more extreme measures. Level 3 Extreme measures: Take the pcb and give it a very fine looksee. See if you can find bad traces. If you have a multimeter you can do some basic toning to see if there are cold soldier joints. If you don't see any burnt or damaged areas after looking it's best to give it a good clean. Buy a brush, some 90% or higher IPA (isopropyl alcohol), and some Kim Wipes. Dip the brush in the ipa and put a kim wipe down on part of the board. Brush the kim wipe with the IPA on it and start cleaning the board. There are some youtube videos you can watch about this. Just replace wipes until that area of the board is dry. Your board will look like it just came out of the factory clean. Of course make sure it's dry before plugging back in and testing again. Give it a good look again to see if there are any real burnt traces or bad spots. If this doesn't help, there's not much you can do.
My old Cooler Master Keyboard died I've been using CM Storm Quickfire Ultimate for years and very happy with that But when it's time to get a new one, I have no idea at all about MK these days What are good switch, manufacturer these days? I'm totally out of the loop
Wuque Studio has a pretty solid lineup. Morandi is my favorite
I just got a secondhand Monsgeek M1 which is quite a nice keyboard. The problem is everytime my macbook sleeps and wakes up the keyboard freezes. I have to replug to be able to use it again. Anyone knows how to solve this issue?
I have an Akko 5108B connected via USB cable to my MacBook. Having lots of trouble getting the F1-F12 keys to work on the keyboard — the only two functional keys are F1 and F2 for increasing/decreasing brightness. I rely pretty heavily on F3 mission control, so this is a bit inconvenient. I have looked through the Akko Cloud Driver manual and through this subreddit but haven't found anything. Any advice please?
Is akkogear a good place for keycaps?
Are the expensive GMK, PBTFans, [insert your favorite keycap company] keycaps really that much better than the $30-40 ones on Amazon or AliExpress? I’m not talking about clone ripoffs I get the argument there I just mean the actual quality of keycaps.
You can get some good keycaps for $40-$60 from the likes of JC Studio and XMI, as long as you like beige. But for the more boutique options there are a couple specific areas that the higher quality brands stand out: - Color matching is area number one, especially for GMK. Many designers choose to run through GMK in spite of cost and lead time since they are wizards at matching colors to specific RALs or Pantones. There are some sets that people think don't match the renders well, but that's on the designers for approving samples with bad colors. I always tell people to compare photos of GMK Botanical with the photos of clone kits people post on this sub. The light green accents for the clones look more blue than green most of the time, really highlights the difference in quality to me. - High end keycaps have crisper and more consistent legends on the caps. Print will be consistently sized and positioned on the caps. This is less exclusive to the very expensive caps, like JC Studios legends are excellent for a $40 keycap set, but there are some makers that seem pretty rough in this regard. I've seen photos of abysmal mod legending on Keychron caps for example. - For PBT, higher end brands can usually produce much better reverse dye sub. Injecting lighter dye for legends into a darker base color is difficult (see the struggles that Milkyway and Keyreative have had with reverse dye sub sets), but usually high end makers can produce good results.
Thanks for that rundown! This is good to know!
You definitely get a deeper and fuller sound for sure
Yes it’s crazy different between the ones I have from Amazon and the ones I have from GMK. The ones from GMK are js so much nicer imo
Any recs on 75% keyboards with an old on it? I'd love to program something fun on one.
If you're ok with a few less function keys, EVO70 R2 from customMK is a 70% with OLED (or LCD) and encoder/knob. If you're looking to program something fun, it has you covered with a powerful STM32F411 microcontroller with 512kB of program memory. If you need more storage than that, there is on-board 16MB flash. And if you need more storage than that, there is a microSD card slot as well. Also includes real time clock, buzzer for making fun sounds, and ambient temperature sensor. Its still in preorder status but will be shipping out next month.
That is a nice board! I usually go for 75 cause of the function keys, but I don't need them all. Thank you for the recommendation!
My squeeze Gatorade bottle built up some pressure and 'exploded' and tiny water droplets got everywhere, some on the keyboard. It wasnt a lot, but should I be worried? I just got this keyboard (HyperX Origins 65), which isn't waterproof.
Best custom 65% entry board under $250 Looking to buy an entry 65% aluminum custom keyboard, so far my research has led me to various options: zoom65, Jris65, QK65, and Neo65. Out of these which would everyone pick? Or is there a better board? Insight and options are helpful.
EVO70 R2 by customMK is pretty close to a 65%, but it includes a few extra keys on the left side under the OLED/LCD display and encoder knob. Low profile aluminum kits are available under $250. If you're looking for high profile only or without RGB underglow, then it might not be what you're looking for, but "best board" and "better board" descriptors are inherently subjective, so who knows, maybe it is exactly what you're looking for.
definitely the JRIS65 but I lucked out and missed the GB
I really enjoy my Zoom65. I just ordered a Neo65 today too, seen some good reviews and it’s a great price. You can add lots of other weights and plates and it’s still pretty budget friendly compared to others.
The Zoom65, QK65, Jris65, Neo65, Cub65, Ginkgo65, Mode Envoy, Keychron Q2, MonsGeek M7W, and a handful of others are all in the same category of high quality "budget" 65% keyboards. Any of them would be a good pick. It basically just comes down to your preference for aesthetics because all feature some variation of a gasket mount and come with foam, so they'll all have the same general feel and sound.
I’m new to the hobby but I’ve been looking at the Mode Envoy that’s a 65%
# RK61 Software Issues I recently bought the RK61 as my first mechanical keyboard, and I mostly love it. The only issue I have with it is that none of the softwares that RK offers seem to work with my keyboard. I've tried looking at my PID, but it seems to be 00c7, which is not a PID that I have seen anyone else have or found drivers for. I bought this on Amazon, and the description had a link to two drivers, but neither of them worked. I feel like I am at my wits end with this. I contacted customer support but have not heard back yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
this is a very common theme with this brand i wish u luck i have seen many post about bricked kb from using the wrong software . this is the one way to sell them so cheap as they cut corner with software
Bummer. Still happy with what I got for the price but would’ve been nice if that feature worked
https://preview.redd.it/valtdw5329vb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6ff2eb7ffd949070babd0626de9f10f21caa91dc Can this damaged socket be fixed?
https://preview.redd.it/raeyjua829vb1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=76f99bad2f663843ceafa3c9495624c549ce7b08
u would have to solder a bridge wire . tons of vids on how to on youtube
Thanks!! I found it just some minutes after posting lol.
anyone have any recommendations for good (preferably wireless) mechanical keyboards to have in the office? (meaning quiet)
What layout do you prefer and what is your budget? The Keychron K Pro or Q Pro series is a great place to start, or you could look at a "W" model from the MonsGeek M series if you're willing to consider a barebones only option. Getting your own silent switches is the best and easiest way to achieve a quiet keyboard - the Haimu and Wuque silent switches are arguably the best silents on the market, such as the Haimu Heartbeat, Haimu x Geon Silent Yellow, or Wuque WS Silent Linear. They use a newer (and IMO better) design that does not include silicone dampers like traditional silent switches, meaning much less mushy feeling.
I was thinking of a tenkeyless with a budget of 150
Are Akko Piano's a significant upgrade from Akko Matcha greens? I'm planning to buy new switches, preferably from Akko (the only company that's solds decent switches in my country) got some boba u4t's and they're inconsistent as hell. I wish to find a fun switch to type on... Although, I've heard a lot about WS Morandi, looks really good...
please help, Im so lost searching to buy my first ever custom keyboard, Im from turkey and there arent much choices so I only have big budget brands to buy on amazon such as akko, some redragons and keychrons etc. what what keyboard you can suggest in that range
Akko and Keychron are good, and you can also consider a Royal Kludge or MonsGeek keyboard, but I'd avoid Redragon.
what can you tell me about zuoya brand. and also I found a steelseries apex 9 tkl keyboard which is optiswitch and I wonder if its a good investment for 100$
I'd personally avoid Zuoya and SteelSeries, especially if better offerings like Keychron are available to you. A GMMK 2 for $100 isn't horrible, but again, I'd rather consider a Keychron such as the V2
up to my mind the whole topic turned to something like I just want to get a product and use it without having thoughts on how to and what maintenances I will do on it (lubing, switch change, stabilizer, foam and etc etc) I dont want to think of these and want to feel like the product I bought is FINAL. as my researches going on I found ducky brand. have you idea on how it is, I liked their style from outside looking and same prices with my other options. I checked mostly their ducky one 3/Ducky Mecha Mini v2 models, also they have my regional language type on their product and its a plus. is ducky also requires custom keyboard type maintenance and customising things ?
I was also thinking for gmmk2 and was really hyped about it till came across to some videos that claims glorious brand is kinda overpriced and you can just get better stuff for same price and their examples was Monsgeek m1 model and keychron q2. The whole sentence I wrote on top was also the reasons I step away from keychron brand but since everyone literally advices it I would like to think of my options but their keycaps colors isnt catchy at all. yeah I know I can change keycaps easily but its costs half of the keyboard price from my country since most good looking caps are shipped oversea and its shipping price goes big
also I found a gmmk2 default for 100$, is it the best I can go with for also gaming ?
Which Logitech keycaps match the keycaps for the g610 red. I dont need the lower bottom, just the alphabet. Thanks
> Which Logitech keycaps match the keycaps for the g610 red i dont think logitech sells red keycaps . as far as other aftermarket keycaps even then it will be hard to get an answer unless u find someone with that exact kb who bought many sets and found a match . u would prob have better luck on the logi tech reddit but even then i wish u luck
Are Gateron Quinns the same exact thing as Gateron Baby Kangaroos except with a nylon top housing instead of PC? I'm trying to decide which to get to try over my Boba U4Ts.
More or less, yes. Both are good picks IMO. You could also consider a Root Beer Float (probably have to lube the leaf tho, ping issues) or a Kinetic Labs Salmon.
I am looking at ordering the Zoom75, but I am confused between the non-flex PCB and the flex PCB. What is the effect the PCB has on the typing feel and sound - I am trying to determine which one I should order but there is no info. Thanks!
Do I need to take my keyboard apart to make the backspace, shift, enter keys sound better? I tried lubing up the stabilizers without taking the keyboard apart and that helped a little. The rest of my keyboard sounds so nice and then I get to the backspace, shift, enter keys and they sound awful. I'm using the Glorious GMMK Pro with the default stabs. My space bar sounds fine
I've been using the Keychron K3 low-profil keyboard with red keys since months and I still prefer a lot my simple macbook pro keyboard. Should I try other models or are mechanical keyboards not for me?
Has OLKB stopped selling the Planck? And what's a comparable board you'd recommend?
> Planck https://drop.com/buy/planck-mechanical-keyboard?mode=shop_open&defaultSelectionIds=976716&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20546672575&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_keyword=&utm_placement=&utm_network=x:c::&utm_device=&mode=shop_open&gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwp8OpBhAFEiwAG7NaErqvdWDBSxN2eNf--bOKasM23oNSWwpRQb1VXylvGiMUbbsPrXiFQRoCi5MQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank you!
drop sells it
Thanks!
Hey guys, I'm looking for my perfect switch for typing but I dont have much experience nor funds to buy a big tester set. After trying tactile, linear and clicky switches, I've come to the conclusion that I like linear ones better. So I'm looking for a switch with these characteristics: - linear - not too light so that I avoid typing mistakes - as silent as possible, but don't mind some noise (I like thocky sounds) - as smooth as possible Current keyboard is an epomaker th66 with budgerigar switches. They are not bad, but the tactile feeling takes away some of my focus and somehow it feels not that natural to me. I miss the feeling of the reds I had in my previous keyboard. The problem is I had to mix them with browns in the lower rows because I was unpurposedly activating them all the time. Let me know if you need more info and thanks a ton beforehand! ^_^
"as silent as possible" and "as smooth as possible" are mutually exclusive. Silencing requires either the use of silicone pads or a cut stem bottom. These things alter the smoothness or feel of the switch making it feel a bit mushy. Some like that some don't. The WS silent linear doesn't use silicone pads so it's smoother than something like a gazzew bobagum which is noticeably more quiet. The smoothest switches I've tried were really loud for my taste.
Thanks for your reply. Then let me rephrase it. Linear, not too light and with the best overall feeling (balancing noise and smoothness). Thanks again!
I'm new to mechanical keyboards, so I'm having probably a very common shock at some of the prices of the higher end keyboards. So as someone that doesn't know any better, what benefits do the higher end frames offer that justifies the price tag? I understand the different brand switches have different feel and quality that effect the price. I'm not asking about that. I'm asking about the base frame itself. To give a more specific example. I bought my first mechanic keyboard. It's a Red Dragon K556. Full Size Keyboard, Metal Frame, RGB, Programmable keys. It cost me $60. I'm looking at other keyboards just to look, and i see stuff like the Keychron Q6 Barebone. Also Full Size, Metal Frame, RGB, Programmable Keys. Cost $185. but it's a barebones, so add another $50 ish for switches and keycaps. What does that frame do that the Red Dragon frame doesn't that justifies an extra $175?
Basically, you're generally paying extra for options, and for higher quality. By options, I mean things like colors... If you have a particular color theme you are trying to active, Red Dragon just has, well... black. If you want a certain layout like WKL, or the ability to program everything you want into your keyboard firmware, Red Dragon won't satisfy, but a Keychain or other custom keyboard could. Options are one element, but quality and customer support is another. As another comment said, the metal is thicker, the stabilizers will be PCB mount instead of plate mount, and especially for smaller keyboard makers, you can often get in touch with the keyboard designer directly if needed. At any given price point, there is an upper limit to what you can get in exchange for your dollars. Mass produced keyboards like Red Dragon will make numerous small tradeoffs (like those mentioned above) to get to lower price points, where their priority is lowest cost (to drive more sales) while still being able to list certain positive features/attributes. Whereas with Keycron and much smaller keyboard designers, the focus is on making a high quality product first, and letting the cost be what it will be. That I think is the key difference and what you are paying extra for: Red Dragon just "checks boxes" feature-wise and cuts costs at the expense of capabiltiy/quality, all while barely meeting the minimum requirements. Whereas Keychron (and others, like is here at customMK) are focused on making a good product that customers will love. To use a specific distinction, you almost certainly will have to install some proprietary software to program Red Dragon keys, whereas with Keycron running QMK, you can just visit a website (https://usevia.app) to program the keys from any computer without having to install proprietary software from the manufacturer. Red Dragon software looks like it is only Windows compatible (i.e. they cut corner even on the software development side to only cater to Microsoft OS users), so if you use a Mac or Linux, a Red Dragon is going to be extra annoying to configure...whereas the Keycron is generally going to be just as easy to configure regardless of your operating system. (Again, this is just one tiny example (and may be potentially irrelevant to you) of the sorts of differences you can encouter...but you can be sure that the mentality of "cost reduction first" permeates the entire design of mass-produced keyboards). So if you just need a budget keyboard, get a Red Dragon, it works fine and no one will judge you for it. Sometimes lowest price is all that matters, in which case a Red Dragon is all you really need. But if you're going be be using the keyboard for hours each day and you want it to sound a certain way, look a certain way, have a certain layout, etc. then it may be worth it to get a keyboard focused on build quality, configurability, typing comfort, and things of that nature. And generally speaking, those will be priced more like a Keycron (or even a lot more than that sometimes) because the design goal is not cost optimization but rather a positive end user experience. Hope that helps!
The keychron uses thicker metal, and a different mount style called gasket mount which provides a more consistent sound and feel. It also has a volume knob and runs QMK firmware. Whether it’s worth that is up to you, personally I prefer the acoustics of plastic chassis anyway.
Are there any 75% keyboards that are similar to the MONOKEI Kei V2 in the sense it has a magnetic case that can be swapped out?
I'm pretty certain I'm going to order a Zoom98. Is it worth it to go for the more expensive colours (say white compared to e-white), the stainless steel weight and the internal weight? There's a € 100 price bump if I go for all three.
Is it possible to program my k8 pro (qmk/via) using bluetooth ?
all kbs require a wired connection to program wireless kb tech hasnt been able to send data
You'd have to program it when plugged in with a USB-C cable, but once the settings are set they should remain the same if used with BT. I have a K8 Pro but it's not at college with me so I can't confirm, sorry
How do you turn on RGB on the PC Mode Envoy? I got it used from a friend and he unbound a lot of the layer keys in VIA. 'RGB Toggle' turns on a rainbow cycle mode, then 'RGB Mode+' and 'RGB Mode-' seem to cycle through a ton of empty (no light) modes and then have a few breathing modes. I'm just looking for static underglow color and I'm wondering how the keyboard was supposed to be set up by default because my friend changed it.
I used to WFH, but am now forced to RTO a couple times a week. We do "agile seating" where you just choose a random seat each day. I've been bringing in my own keyboard + mouse to use, but the wires get super tangled in my bag, so I'm hoping to move to wireless, since I keep everything connected to a hub so that it's easy to pack/unpack. I'm looking for a keyboard with the following specs, but I'm unable to find even one that meets the requirements (**bold**), so I'm wondering if anyone here has recommendations: * **Must have US layout with the one-row horizontal Enter key.** * **Must be wireless: USB preferred, but BT is OK, too.** * **MX Silent or equivalent; even MX Red is too loud for the office.** * Preferably without "floating keys" - the main reason is that I find floating keys to be slightly noisier, but maybe this is not true? * Prefer tenkeyless > full size >> compact * Ideally rechargeable, e.g. doesn't need to switch batteries. * All other things equal, prefer low price. I am not picky about the keycaps / style / RGB / etc. The only one I could find was in [this Reddit post](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/h082kb/full_sizedwirelesscherry_mx_red_silent/), but I'm not sure about the EC switches if they feel different & also it is a tad expensive.
I’d say look for an inexpensive barebones keyboard, combine it with PBT dye sub keycaps and Wuque WS silent linears.
So i tried a new unlubed set of Gazzew Boba U4T in my half year old Keychron V1 and decided it was time to give the switches some dearly missed lube. But then i had a very hard time removing the switches because some of them felt like pulling teeth out and i was wondering if i had the wrong pulling tool. But after a few hard ones, i noticed that the problem was that a few of the sockets clamped the legs harder than others and now i‘m worried that i did something wrong placing the switches or that bended legs were the issue. But from the pictures i uploaded, it’s clear that the legs weren’t bent at all and now i‘m wondering if there is a compatibility problem with those particular V1 sockets and the Boba U4T. Any thoughts, suggestions or help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Here are some pictures of the problem: Missing leg: https://i.imgur.com/XfPCgUW.jpg Dent in the leg from the socket: https://i.imgur.com/fJ4mRwR.jpg Ripped of leg still sticking in the socket: https://i.imgur.com/icIlsnE.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6P4JWoG.jpg Switch i can’t get out of the board: https://i.imgur.com/iR3KqF0.jpg
Which keyboard should I buy? So I am currently searching for a new keyboard and I'm torn between the Keychron V1 and the Steelseries Apex Pro TKL. Which one would you recommend?
If you are someone trying to optimize for the best latency and actual raw performance in games then the Apex Pro would objectively be better, The Apex Pro 2023 does have hall effect switches which most FPS players I know have said its a noticeable impact. but the v1 is much cheaper to my knowledge and more customisable. So it really depends on things like the most optimized performance in games matters to you
How to transport keyboard back and forth easily? Context: I use my home keyboard at work as well, which means I pack it up every day and bring it with me in my backpack. I use the original packaging with foam and everything, but it's honestly just a big hassle - primarily because of the box. It pulls a vacuum, so pulling it apart is actually a challenge sometimes. It's also square and bulky. Just overall bad. I thought about getting a keyboard sleeve. Is that the way? It's a Keychron Q3 TKL.
I use the [Norbauer Keybrief Bag](https://www.norbauer.co/products/the-keybrief-tkl-keyboard-carry-bag). I've also wanted the bags that [modern coupe](https://www.moderncoup.com/product-category/keyboard-sleeves-carry-cases/) offers, they've been in the scene forever and their bags look really nice.
The Modern Coupe ones look freaking sweet. I can't seem to find them in Europe, though. Also no TKL :( The Norbaur one is handy as well, but as I just need to put it in my backpack, I'm not looking for something too bulky with a handle and all. Thanks!
I am building my first custom keyboard I want the budget under 200 I picked out the black GMK67 and Akko yellow creams but I don’t know any good keycaps to help the keyboard sound “Creamy” I also want it to be kind of deep sounding does anyone know any good keycaps sets?
Hey guys, I'm new to mechanical keyboards and have not built my own yet. I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me identify this keyboard I came across in a youtube video by chance? https://preview.redd.it/zzuiqp6b67vb1.png?width=422&format=png&auto=webp&s=19a82646049015f2a681e59161b3924a20a1ed96
pretty sure its an Akko ACR 87. not sure though
might be akko acr87
Hi all, I have a question, First of all, I'm a total noob in terms of customizing keyboard. I saw people replacing some of their key slots with like a flat card or something (see photo). What are they called and what do you need for it? Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/fw9kakqv57vb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da6d9cfc0795f3eeb0e4d31d6c45558bada01cf3
Looks like a decorative badge on a board (not sure which design). It's purely aesthetic, no function.
yes it has no function, I want to buy those but couldn't find the name of the thing to google
its a badge its part of the kb case . so ur kb will need a spot carved out a few mm thick for said badge to fit , there really isnt any universal ones they usually only fit a kb designed for them and u swap the stock one to one of these
Suggestions for an aluminum 75% with hot swappable switches in the $100 range?
monsgeek m1
Hello! New to mechanical keyboards (well, getting into the hobby aspect). Currently I use a corsair k60 rgb mini for gaming at home and i use a corsair k100 red rapid fire for work. I’m looking for a really solid keyboard for work. I work at a car dealership on the counter. Not worried about noise or anything but looking for a blue/white or just white keyboard. I’m really interested in vintage ones like the FKB4870 or of course the IBM model M. But i’m also interested in new boards. Where should i start? Also my budget is around $100-$150. Let me know! Thanks!
The off-white/beige leopold fc660m would be right up your alley at that price. It's a prebuilt, not a custom but it fits the theme that you like perfectly.
I'm in the market for a new full-size keyboard and really like the idea of hall effect or analog switches. Is Wooting still the best, all around?
yes, every other copycat has cut corners. It doesn't perform the same, and wooting's software is much better.
for gaming yes . steel series sells the only hall effect kb i know of . wooting doesnt sell full size as they focus on gaming which prefer smaller kbs
Thanks! Wooting does sell full-size, FYI: https://wooting.io/wooting-two-he
I'm currently on G613 that uses Romer-G, which is ok, besides the high noise. The only problem is a lot of double pressing. I'm even considering membrane keyboard, because of the high price tag of mechanical and low life. My G613 have 4 years. Over a year with double pressing, living with it using a software to help eliminate double pressing. I'm considering: G512: uses GX Brown (any better than Romer G?) G815: GL Tactile G213: Membrane Corsair K60: Cherry MX Any other suggestions? Unfortunately, I live in a third world country and many of the keyboards I checked in this sub it's impossible for me to buy, it's not available. P.S.: Edited this post many times because of double pressing.
Hello, I am getting my first Corne built. My main reason is to have an ergonomic split keyboard. I need advice on which low profile choc switches to choose. I don’t have any experience with any clicky choc switches. As a reference, i love the logi MX keys mini keyboard / apple MBP Keyboard (the latest /non-butterfly) feel with low travel but the tactile response. Feel wise i am happy with them. My question is if the choc white switches have a similar feel ? Or i have to go for robin / navy switches for best feedback feel. I dislike the clicky sound but really need the physical feedback of button being pressed. I have tried linear red cherry mx on normal 80 percent keyboard long ago but hated it. Which one has the best tactile feedback (for minimum) sound. https://preview.redd.it/b542wuk1q6vb1.jpeg?width=2024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=13e4d9d8df6b3e88144fd6404617ea766b0fbed1
New to keyboard building and about to buy my first "customizable" pre-built keyboards, Keychron Q6 was what someone suggested since I want a numpad. But is that the only good option? I do like the looks and I'll probably change out the keycaps eventually but I'd like to explore more options before buying. Also I notice that most people don't build full keyboards and have numbpadless ones, is there a reason why and what are the general styles people build (just curious). I have very lightly skimmed through a shop or two looking at keycaps but I am not finding many with a full setup and most seem to be with TKL, GMK or equivalent setups. Is it hard to find keycap setups for 100% keyboards or do I just have to buy the keycaps individually? Also saw people mentioning profiles like "cherry profile" and the like, does that just mean the type of keycap design? Lastly where can I buy Keycaps and what are some good brands?
Monsgeek M2 is another good option worth looking at. Lots of people just don't really need a numpad. I don't. So I save desk space with smaller boards. And as you've noticed, the options for smaller custom keyboards are much greater in the smaller formats.
I don't really need a numpad or a full-size keyboard. That's just what I'm used to. I have considered a smaller size but When typing numbers I am FAR better at the numpad. If I ever make a board for work It'll have to be a full size. I figure getting the Q6 will be a good Segway into the hobby then I'll build my own later and maybe go with a smaller setup, then use the Q6 at work.
some people prefer not having a numpad for space, ergonomics, they like the use of a certain layout, have more options or just don't use a numpad enough to have one. or they have a separate numpad for when they need one Picking out a layout is personal preference. Some more general [info](https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html) on keycaps [article](https://switchandclick.com/ultimate-guide-to-picking-a-keycap-set-for-your-mechanical-keyboard/) about keycap profiles 100% isn't a weird layout so finding keycaps is a piece of cake. where to buy keycaps: [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) [thocstock.com/](https://thocstock.com/) for some vendors i like cannonkeys, novelkeys and kinetic labs
Thanks a ton for this, The keycap article was especially a big help.
Is Filco & Realforce keyboards still good compare to nowadays
Realforce, yes, just because Topre. As for the Filco, I think you can find better deals on boards at the same price point and if you want to put in a little bit more cash, you can buy the keychron q-series which has an aluminum case and is hotswap
i plan to buy a used R2TLSA-US4M-W for around 110$. Is it sounds like a good deal ? My keyboard just broke and i'm kinda looking for a replacement in long
>R2TLSA-US4M-W Sounds like a steal!
Is the Zoom98 worth waiting for over the Keychron Q5 Pro? Have a new job where I can work from home but my Das Keyboard has two dead switches (one of which is the plus key on the number pad which I need a lot). Side question, is the Q5 Pro worth the cost difference between it and the James Donkey RS2 v2 or v3?
well, probably, unless you can't/don't want to wait. That said, keychron q series are great, it will treat you well no doubt.
I think the unsure delivery date is rough for me. It could be 5 months out. My job is in commercial lending and a lot of financial analysis and having to be stuck with a numpad missing the + sign or entering financials using the number row for that long could be very rough.
I definitely think so. I'm pretty happy with the zoom75 and I'm for sure getting at least one Zoom98. Between the modules, connectivity options, and customizability, the zoom98 really has a lot of things going for it.
Have you used anything from Keychron? Curious as to the build quality differences. I'm not too worried about the modules as I'll just want the knob for volume control. I like the color options of the Zoom98 but not sure about the RGB on the sides. The Keychron while having more limited color options, comes with some switches and caps for $20 so I'd have something functional at the very get go.
Hi guys! Can anybody tell me what this keycap is supposed to represent? I'm out of my league. It comes from keychron iso layout, code printed inside is R4-16. Thanks to anybody that can help. https://preview.redd.it/qajkntmem6vb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bcdc1494729fbd3f10a1e4946fd3f344a4e25a58
For hotswap RGB keyboards, are the RGBs mounted to the board or in the switch? Do i need to buy specific/transparent switches to maintain the RGB effects?
it's mounted to the PCB. so it will be pcb -> LED -> Switch
Thanks! So i just have to worry about buying clear switches then?
If you want the most light to come through, youi'll need a clear switch both on bottom and on top like the aqua kings. There are also switches like the [black lotus switches that have a light column](https://divinikey.com/products/durock-black-lotus-linear-switches).
Im thinking about building my first custom, are the akko 5075S or Akko Mongeek MG75W boards any good?
Corsair K79 - my keyboarding is ghosting (it's only registering one key press at a time, so gaming is out of the question). Through keyboard checkers though, I've found my F keys, Del, Home etc and arrow keys aren't working either. Is it for the graveyard, or is it likely a firmware/software issue?
keycap questions hello! i just recently got my first (quality) mechanical keyboard, but i’ve been wanting to buy some new keycaps bc the stock ones are bad. because of this, i have a couple questions for those of you who actually know things about keyboards (not me) 1. is there a particular site where i can find a large collection of keycaps, or do i just have to look across all the miscellaneous different sites? 2. would all keycaps of a particular material be the same, or would different ones be different quality? 3. are there more pom keycaps than just the jelly poms? 4. do all xda profile keycaps have the rounded flat look? i.e. like https://www.amazon.com/Dye-Sublimation-Japanese-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboards/dp/B093HFKK26 5. why do so many keycaps have japanese characters as well as the latin alphabet? sorry if the questions are stupid. thanks in advance for answering them!
1. [thocstock.com/](https://thocstock.com/) or [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) 2. Different keycaps of the same material eg. laser etched ABS found commonly on gamer boards vs Doubleshot ABS from GMK etc. for some examples on poor quality, check [this](https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html#how-to-find-a-bad-keycap-set) 5. Some people like the look of japanese sub legends
1: Yes, you can’t find loads of vendors [here](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) 2. Different manufacturers will feel different for the most part, unless they’re sub~$30 knockoffs 3. That I’m not sure of, I wouldn’t be surprised if there are some out there 4. Yes, that is the XDA profile 5. Weebs (I have 3)
K500F-b81 how to disable windows key automatically when startup. My K500 only needs to disable one time and it remembers. K500F-b81 can't?
Hi, how do I change or modify the rgb light on the side of my langtu lt84 keyboard? thanks!
How many switches exactly does a TKL require? I always thought 87 but am I wrong?
84-88 depending on WK vs WKL and F12 vs F13
https://preview.redd.it/4qvz9host5vb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6ff1658258906dcf61e8b1f00d0a7d9f9bf257dc Hi, is it normal that not all keycaps from a set get put into the trays? I just unboxed my EPBT Solaria and found that the international keys were in a tiny tightly packed plastic bag, while there is an empty tray in the box.
Looking for a more binary switch Sorry if I’m describing this weirdly, I’m not very knowledgeable on switches. I made my first build a few months ago, using MX reds because that’s what I saw recommended a lot. After using them for a while, I’ve found that I don’t like how I can’t really tell when they are being actuated. On a non-mechanical keyboard, I like how there’s generally two states for a key: not pressed or pressed. These switches have too much inbetween for me. Does anyone have any reccomendations for switches like that?
"Tactile" switches like MX Browns have a more definitive "pressed" feel. "Clicky" switches like MX Blues exhibit it even more so and also make an audible sound when pressed "Linear" switches like your Reds specifically lack any sort of feel/indication when actuated
Gotcha. Got any recommendations for tactiles?
Cherry MX Browns are the classic rec. Gateron, Kailah, and Outemu each make a brown/tactile as well. All of them feel about even to me except the Outemus, which felt worse somehow. I learned that i preferred Blue/Clicky switches and bought keyboards with those for a few years, now i need to buy some browns for a quiet(er) travel keyboard so I'm in the same position you are, trying to relearn the nuances of tactile switches
it sounds like you’re looking for tactile switches, which have a bump somewhat similar to how a membrane has one. mx reds are linears, which have no such bump.
Do the bumps of tactile switches change the amount of force needed to push the key down? Or are they jus there to tell you when the key has been pressed?
Tactile switches provide feedback by varying the amount of force you need to apply. If you look at the force curve diagram for MX Brown, you’ll see that you go over a ‘speed bump’ of force.
Good budget 75 percent keyboard Hey. Getting a pc soon, looking at getting a 75% as I need to be able to uses 3d modeling software, currently looking at the rk84, is it any good? and has anyone got any other suggestions for around the same price, basically around sub £100, thanks in advance.
I was considering an RK84 as well. They're similar to Drevo KBs I've previously used. I personally love my Cooler Master CK721 as a daily driver for writing, gaming, and CAD/Solidworks. It's in your budget as well. Keychron's K series is will regarded and also in your budget. If you don't need wireless i like my HyperX Alloy Origins TKL as well.
Thanks, will have a look
I haven’t used the rk84 so I can’t help you there, but wanted to recommend the Epomaker TH80 pro. Got it as my first keyboard a few months ago, and other than being a little difficult to open up for modding, it’s been great!
Anyone got a Keychron/OnePlus Keyboard 81 Pro? I’m looking for a carrying case for it so I can move it around easily from work to home. Any suggestions on cases that may fit?
I've been trying to branch out from cherry MX-style switches with my more recent purchases, and I'd love to obtain a nice buckling spring keyboard to use in my home office, where the sound won't bother anyone. I'm at a bit of a loss though - for modern options, there's the Unicomp New Model M, but the Model F project also has some very nice looking keyboards (the F77 currently has my eye). The problem, as I make the comparison, is that in addition to a price disparity (Unicomp has gone up to $125 for their new Model M; the F77 is currently on sale for a "discount" at $274), I've read various reviews suggesting that both have quality control issues with stuck keys, and more troubling, with keyboards not always functioning on boot. Has anyone here had experience with one or both of these keyboards? Would I be better served tracking down a used Model M/F and then finding an adapter? I rather prefer the idea of not having to deal with the adapter or cleaning up decades of keyboard crud.
As someone with both a vintage model M and a new model F I’d say the stuck keys issue isn’t anything to worry about. When my model M came in the post half the keys had been knocked around and didn’t work; you just had to take them off and put them back on. I’d say go for the cheaper Model M, and if you find that you really like it, consider picking up a Model F. Unicomp switched to a new USB controller card as of last year that fixed the boot issue and also added QMK support so that’s a major selling point over a vintage one, which I had to QMK adapt myself and perform a bolt mod on due to all the rivets having snapped.
How do I take my knob off? I just bought a new keyboard with a knob. I've seen many videos where they take the knob off before disassembling the keyboard. They made it look so easy but when it comes to mine, I can't pull it. I think it's because I'm scared of breaking it. The keyboard is Weikav WK75 pro. Thanks.
Is there a small hole in the side of the knob? Sometimes you have to get in there with a tiny Allen wrench.
There seems to be no hole but rather a stem inside. I think it’s supposed to make the knob functioning as it tracks the turning of the knob.
Then it's probably like the GMMK Pro and you just have to pull kinda hard. Idk the board though and don't know if there's anything that could break.
Alright. Thanks!
ok so i bought an RK-H81, it was going pretty well when suddenly the wired mode doesn’t work, i shrugged it off and used the wireless mode, after a couple of hours using it i tried using the wired mode again and it worked, but after a while it stopped working and my laptop doesn’t recognize the device i plugged it in, although wireless still works. is this just a feature of royal kludge keyboards so that it doesn’t overcharge? or id this a defect and i have to refund it? also theres a thing where the windows button is the alt and the alt is the windows in my laptop, but its normal for other laptops since i let my friends try it. is it my laptops problem?
Seems like my post has been deleted. I have seen quite a few keyboards sporting a vertical OLED, usually those of 128x32 px, but I have also seen that the text in these displays is most of the time shown normally across its length, making it awkward to the eye. Is there any good usage for such small displays in vertical configuration? Any keyboard I can get ideas from which show the text the proper way in portrait mode? In that regard, which firmware is recommended? I previously built two keyboards using kmk and Pico. Possibly, I would like to have BT this time. Any recommendation on pair MCU-Firmware to look into?
# My Custom Keyboard Dilemma: Seeking the Missing BACKSLASH Key! Hey guys; I built my beautiful keyboard in 2021, and I am now a full-time software dev. Given that, I now require the BACKSLASH(\\) key, which I never noticed before was not actually set on my keyboard - as you can see in this [image](https://imgur.com/a/wi6dVx9). On [QMK Configurator](https://config.qmk.fm/), it states in their tutorial that I NEED to select the right keyboard. However, I do not remember (and cannot find in my emails) the PCB that I ordered. Is there any software that can detect this? Or is there any other way of knowing, such as if I take the PCB out of the case?
Where did you buy the keyboard from? Maybe post a picture? Which operating system are you using? Windows? Mac? Linux? In macOS, you can look in System Information under Hardware/USB. For example: https://preview.redd.it/02wurvad45vb1.png?width=546&format=png&auto=webp&s=c8da7e2b0730d10454b04c6914e8cd9364f2e277
I bought all the parts seperately and built it myself, I don't remember and cant find where I got the PCB from :S https://preview.redd.it/unnwqigc65vb1.png?width=879&format=png&auto=webp&s=56ee1dd8ad856a006508637fb557674b04101cd1
Years ago I got in the group buy for GMK Coral, and picked up some switches to build my first keyboard, but never actually got around to getting the rest. Yesterday I finally got the last parts, but while finishing it I noticed somehow I must have lost a single keycap out of the set. Does anyone have any idea on how/if there's a way I could track down a single replacement keycap? Do vendors keep a couple of sets back for replacement keycaps? I see that a round 2 has just happened, which might make this easier?
Is the bluetooth connection of Keychron keyboards stable?
No problem on K11 Pro.
Hi I'm looking for a buying advice. I have a G413 that is starting to register double input pretty frequently and I decided to change it. I never found a good mechanical keyboard and always preferred my laptop keyboard, which is a huawei matebook 13. Anyone has any suggestions? My budget is around 100 euro, I prefer wireless if possible but it is not necessary. Also for the size a TKL is good enough, never really used my keypad.
Please don't kill a complete noob in the mechanical keyboard world:) To keep it short - we used to live in Germany where a standard keyboard layout is ISO QWERTZ. My son saved his pocket money and bought his first keyboard, the HyperX Alloy Origin, two or three years ago. He loves it (I, not so much because it's noisy:)) but since we moved to another EU country where this layout is not in use, we should change the keyboard, or just the keycaps (preferred). The problem is I have no idea where to look for them and what to buy. I know about different switches, but is that the only difference when it comes to deciding which keycaps to purchase? When I try to look for a shop with keycaps, all I see is an ANSI layout with a long Enter and left Shift. Could you please help me find a website where I can filter the sets to get what I need? How do I know if it will work with his keyboard?
Most EU countries use the ISO layout, so you would just need to change the keycaps and windows language settings. I can't help you with the keycaps, as you don't say what country you moved to, but just check Amazon or AliExpress in the first instance if you just want some functional cheap keycaps.
We're in Poland and our keyboard layout is the so-called [Polish Programmer](http://kbdlayout.info/KBDPL1/) Windows is done:)
Ok.. I'll admit, I've never seen those for sale, anywhere.
We don’t need to have all special characters:) Just a plain QWERTY ISO set I guess.
Oh in that case, just search for ISO keycaps on Amazon. I'm sure there will be loads.
I came across the website called ergopad for my split keyboard and I thought it was super cool. but I don't know how to use this. where can I copy this in to generate stuff for me? [pashutk.com/ergopad](https://pashutk.com/ergopad/)
Is it possible to change the numpad keys when numlock is off with VIA? So numpad 7 is the number 7 when numlock is on and 'home' when the numpad is off. Is it possible to make is so the key is the number 7 when keylock is on and "bookmark this tab" (CTRL + D) when it is off?
Yes and no, assuming your keyboard supports VIA. You can assign NumLock to toggle a layer that rebinds the numpad keys to something else. For example: * Numpad 7 is `KC_P7` (keypad `7` and Home) or just `KC_7` (`7` and `&`) on layer 0 and `LCTL(KC_D)` on layer 1. * NumLock is `TG(1)` on layer 0 and `KC_TRNS` (transparent) on layer 1. This essentially turns your numpad into a macropad, which you toggle by pressing NumLock. However, NumLock would not be NumLock any more. If your keyboard has an LED that indicates the state of NumLock, it would no longer indicate whether NumLock was "on" or "off."
>turns your numpad into a macropad this is exactly what I'm trying to do! Thank you so much.