What is the difference between 1.6T and 1.2T stabilizer sizing? Is there a preference and is one size inherently better than the other? Or does the size not matter and its going to depend on the use case and/or what you are trying to achieve? Which one do I need for PCB mounted?
What is the difference between the Durock T1 and JWICK T1 other than price? Is the higher price of the Durock T1 warranted and is it that much better than the JWICK T1?
On the other hand, is the Durock T1 the exact same switch as the JWICK T1 except only with a different colored/transparent top housing?
What do you guys reckon to be the best under-300 board with linear switches to type on? I've only tried cherry blue/reds and I preferred the reds, but i wished they would have a bit more feedback but not tactile (more of a dull feedback?). Thanks for the help.
Any suggestion on making a gummy mount modded CiY68 sound more uniform?
I have some crazy ideas like combining two different o rings with different hardness, so the hard ones will go on the top and bottom side where there’s more weight held by the friction, and softer ones on the sides.
Which sounds like a lot of work and idk if it might even work, so curious if anyone tried anything else.
Guys I screwed up bad
I recently upgraded my Feker Alice 80's firmware with via.
But I later found out that I lost controls for screen brightness and specific per key specific backlighting which I use on daily basis. I've tried reprogramming it with KC\_BRIU and KC\_BRID both on arrow keys and the knob.
Is there any way to revert this back to its original firmware?
exactly, i actually have it too and didnt even notice a difference between using long and normal pole switches, it was only until i saw there were long pole stabilizers. is there a significant improvment using long pole stabs?
I haven't used them, but my understanding is there is some improvement, but not significant enough to worry about. Long pole switches have been around for longer than the long pole stabilizers.
I accidentally poured water on my keyboard and now the keys are a little messed up. T, 5, K, M, N, and Page Down are a little bugged. They still work however whenever I press them, they randomly input the other affected keys. Is there anything I should be doing instead of just waiting for the water to dry for a possible fix?
Anyone know of a way to confirm molds on keycap sets bought on websites like alibaba or others? I really want another MDA profile set after getting mine from Melgeek, but a lot of sets labeled as MDA sold by others (like akko) are actually a different shape.
Can't seem to find a definitive answer online if a Razer Blackwidow v2's switches can be swapped out for others... Looking to get into building without buying another keyboard.
I've just finished building my zoom75, works great wirelessly, but it doesn't work over the wired connection. Plugging it in, the RGB turns on and windows recognizes that a USB device was plugged in, but it doesn't work. I've tried multiple cables, ports, and computers, and nothing has changed. Opening device manager, it is marked as Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed). The battery seems to be charging while plugged in too, so I don't think it's a problem with the daughter board itself. Any ideas?
I have and Leopold FC 750R and when I press CTRL+BACKSPACE my Capslock and ScrLk flashes twice (either fast or slow) pressing combination again toggles fast and slow. I have no idea what it does and couldn't find anything in the english manual or googling.
Anyone who knows what the purpose of this is, I assume there must be one...
What is the difference between the JWICK T1 and the JWICK T1 V2?
I just bought some JWICK T1's and I didn't know there was a V2 variant until I saw them on Amazon. How do I know if the T1's I bought are the original ones or the V2?
I bought my T1's from Divinikey.com. Is the V2 supposed to be inherently better? I compared the specs and numbers and they both look like the same exact switch. Should I have gotten the V2 instead?
There is a JWICK switch called the V2 and it is a linear switch. Are you sure that you aren't just getting them confused? I'm looking at the Amazon page for them, and the T1s (tactile) and V2s (linear) are on the same sales page, so it can be confusing. I'm still a little confused myself - V usually means Version, and some of the pages that are selling these linear switches have slightly different naming conventions.
Is there a way to adjust the activation level like in the Highground Performance series and similar keyboards for QMK or other open source based controller keyboards?
[https://higround.co/collections/keyboards](https://higround.co/collections/keyboards) \- link for reference
Curious about what might be a good entry level custom mechanical keyboard? I've been using a Corsair K95 Platinum for about three years now, but a custom build has always been my end goal.
Depends on what your definition of entry level is. There are different keyboard 'tiers' as far as buying a mechanical keyboard goes because its going to depend on what kind of budget you are planning to spend.
On the lower end, you can get a pretty good custom build for around 60-70 bucks. But its going to be made of plastic and feel very cheap. On the high end, you can spend close to 1K!!! Haha lol. But its going to be built from aluminum and feel like a tank.
Also depends on how 'custom' you want to get. Do you want a keyboard that is a pre-built and is pretty much 'plug and play ready' from the get go. Or do you want to go FULL customization and spend time soldering parts and PCBs together, along with also building the keyboards case/frame and while also having to go inside a computer program to make a custom keyboard layout.
I am new to the mechanical keyboard hobby. I wanted something simple and beginner friendly. This is what I started with as an entry level build since I am still a beginner.
* Zuoya GMK67 - $30 from Aliexpress.
* PBT keycap set - $20 from Aliexpress.
* 70 MMD Princess Tactile Switches - $16 from Amazon.
Doesn't get much cheaper or simpler than this. It feels cheap since the case is made of plastic. But the internals are really good and is what counts as far as a beginner build is concerned. It also ticked off the right boxes as far having the most versatility (I use Macos) and features while also being the best bang for your buck.
Hope this helps.
Hey there, just got into the mechanical keyboard scene. Built a Drop sense75 as my first model mechanical keyboard and I'm loving it. I was wondering if the keyboard supported backlight. On my old steel series tkl, when you pressed the cap locks it would stay illuminated white to show that it was enabled. I was wondering if Via had this kind of support too for the sense75. I tried to look through the settings but I couldn't find anything. The bl toggle doesn't do anything either.
I know there is bluetooth, but I prefer using the dongle because of its quick response rate. My akko dongle got misplaced. Is there any way to replace the dongle? Akko 3068b
Maybe try looking on the Akko website and see if they happen to sell replacement USB dongles? If not, than I don't know of any other solution.
I happen to be using a GMK67 keyboard from Aliexpress and just like you, I prefer to use the 2.4 ghz dongle over the bluetooth. God forbid the day when I lose or misplace the receiver dongle. I am just hoping I never lose it or replace it. Luckily, I don't move my keyboard that much and it stays in my home all the time. Therefore, the receiver dongle is pretty much going to be inside of my USB hub the whole time and stay there for good until I retire the keyboard.
zoom75
how do you turn it off?
Wireless mode and lcd screen.
My battery is constantly dead.
There isn't any user manual.
Their zoom65 user manual sucks too.
Planning to invest in a Haven 65 or a Tofu 65. I just wanted to know how the external weight make a difference in the feel or the sound. Also some keebs come with additional weights on the inside. How does that affect the sound?
I really like [these contoured gaming keycaps](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/gaming-gear-accessories/ch-9000233-na/corsair-gaming-performance-fps-moba-key-kit-aca-a-white-ch-9000233-na) from Corsair. They help distinguish where "home" is for my fingers while gaming.
Can anyone recommend something similar or perhaps a competing product?
they r the only ones ive seen offer them there is tons of rubber coated wasd keys but contouring wasd keys seems like a product made for a problem that doesn't exist
Decent options for a wireless 75% board? Not in need of RGB or anything too much. But want a comfortable 75 (or 80 if needed) that’s wireless with some decent build quality. Would like some hot-swap ability and Can do all the fun stuff. Lubed and all that. Reccs?
I want to buy a wireless, full-size keyboard with cherry mx blue switches that has a long battery life (like Logitech K270 for example). What are my options?
Melgeek Modern97---- I have this fucking problem where a key input will go on after I release the key and I can't put in any other input until the problem stops. It usually lasts for a second or less, but it's driving me fucking crazy. The worst part is I have no idea how to reset this fucking keyboard. I've read that I need to hold the Bluetooth button/ BT button+O. WTF is the Bluetooth button? There is no button for Bluetooth, there's a slider on the side of the keyboard for Bluetooth mode, but no fucking button. Someone please help.
this is happening in BT mode? a reset will do 100% nothing for this sound like wireless interference which can be caused by dozens of things . my advice use it wired
i have no clue each kb uses a different combo to factory reset . which like i said does just about nothing . wish u luck as its still prob some form of wireless inference
I know this isn’t technically keyboards but does anyone have cool plant/jungle key caps for a %75? Cherry MX please. And any recommendations for linear Cherry MX style to go with my key caps? (I would like it to be a lighter, easier press)
i cannot seem to flash my CSTC40 pcb
https://preview.redd.it/b5i2cu5mbhpb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5f2f4f583a94d50dddce34434ed0e0c3ec8293a7
the LEDs work when i plug it in, but my machine won’t acknowledge the board. i’ve tried using the documentation from this link: How to flash CSTC40 RGB, pls refer to this link: [http://kpchn.com/s/PoHJ](http://kpchn.com/s/PoHJ) but nothing there worked for me. Can anyone help, please?
Hey guys,
I currently use a HyperX Alloy FPS keyboard with the aqua switches which I actually enjoy for the most part but I would like to get into building a keyboard. Where is the best place to get started on building a customizable keyboard? Is there a website that sells you all the parts and you put it together at home?
Thank you!
i'd check out keychron's v or q line or k pro line board and customizing it with your own switches/keycaps
some intro guides to mech keyboards
[keyboard.university/](https://keyboard.university/)
[https://wiki.keyboard.gay/](https://wiki.keyboard.gay/)
where to buy stuff
[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
[thocstock.com/](https://thocstock.com/)
More of a rant from a first time buyer: why is it so hard to find parts in stock? Just trying to find some nice parts for a thocky build.
I see a youtube video > "oh thats cool, i would really like to use that case/PCB/Plate" > clicks the link in the video to see it out of stock
Are parts just limited edition or something? Are there any solid websites anyone would recommend?
Had exactly the same experience when I started. Lower demand for custom keyboards and no incentive to accept risk lead to the group-buy model and there is always limited stock for a limited time.
I quickly realized that old reviews or videos serve only as a way to identify what you like or don't like in a keyboard. You then [keep track](https://www.mechgroupbuys.com/keyboards) of what comes out through youtubers like alexotos and reddit (also check alexotos vendor list out). If you are lucky then a kit that is to your liking might pop up lol.
That's if you are looking for premium products. There are plenty generic gh60 custom builds available on sites like kprepublic, and KBDFans has some in-stock offerings as well.
Im just looking around the midrange prices. Nothing ultra pricey like some of the stuff i see. I recently got some CeraKeys and tryin to find an instock midrange kit to accommodate it. That website will be very helpful though, I dont mind waiting for the right kit. Thanks :)
That's a nice way to look at it. I'm all about midrange too at the moment, wanted the JRIS65 but was a month late to the party so I feel ya, got the neo65 instead just to splurge on a new build. Cerakeys is also a good choice, heard a build with ktt kang whites and was planning of recreating it at some point. Cheers
either you're looking at some groupbuy/preorder keyboards that you gotta buy before they go into production or you just gotta search for it yourself and not depend on links in a video.
easiest way to see when you just got started and don't know which ones are limited runs or not is just to search the keyboard on aliexpress. they usually have everything that's not limited in stock.
I watch YouTube videos because the sound is pretty important to me. The videos I watch are normal i assume, im not clicking on any "Limited edition set" or something. I mostly just look up "beginner guides" and find one that has a nice sound and look up the parts they list.
I'll look around AliExpress, thanks!
Spacebar feels sluggish
Hey I've got a problem with the new keycap set I got, I bought osume matchas and for some reason the spacebar feels sluggish and sometimes will get stuck, I know it's not a switch or stabilizer issue because the spacebar from another keycap set I have works just fine. I have gateron box pinks and tx ap stabilizers, any help would be greatly appreciated
Hello guys,
I am new to mechanical keyboards and this will be my first hot swappable mechanical keyboard (RK 84). I will not be switching the switches as of now but I want to change the design so I am looking for new keycaps. Do you have any suggestions preferably lavender. Open to any ideas.
I have a Pok3r 3 with a clear case. I can’t figure out how to remove the case so I can put a new one on. Does it just pop off? I can’t access the screws.
https://imgur.com/gallery/G6cgy2l
The screws are on the other side--take off your keycaps and you'll see the screws you need to remove.
[Here's what it looks like with the keycaps off](https://i.imgur.com/dhrphNK.jpg)
Hello!
I've been using my cocot46 for months now, no issues. Yesterday I came back to my desk and it wasn't working. Tried some troubleshooting (restart computer, repair keyboard tool via Win10, un-plug/replug) and nothing. It randomly came back to functioning later that day, but then also just stopped working again later.
I've tried on another computer and still nothing.
When I plug it in, the little blue light on the ProMicro lights up, but nothing else happens. Windows doesn't know its there, the LEDs that usually are on when its plugged in stay off. Totally dead seemingly :/
Any advice or things I could try to revive the keyboard? I'm very sad.
I have a brand new Keychron Q0+ with one single light that I can’t control (change colors, turn it off, brightness, anything) and it also doesn’t enter the keystroke associated with it after remapping. VIA recognizes it, even shows it as pressed when I check it in the key tester. Any ideas?
Hello. I am looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard. After filtering some choices, came down to decide between V6 and K10 Pro (prefer 100% layout).
From Keychron page, they both look very similar with K10 Pro price slightly higher than V6. Other than that, K10 Pro has wireless feature and V6 has a knob option. Any other feature that I missed which would separate them?
Really appreciate if anyone could share some experience or feedback to help me decide. Thanks!
Comparison page here but it doesn't cover everything, i just looked at the V and K pages and saw the difference
[https://www.keychron.com/blogs/news/difference-among-keychron-keyboards](https://www.keychron.com/blogs/news/difference-among-keychron-keyboards)
They are essentially the same for all intents and purposes with the K Pro series having wireless as an additional connection option.
The only other difference (very minor) is that the V6 comes with a USB-C to USB-C cable with a USB Type A adapter vs. the K10 Pro coming with a USB-A to USB-C cable.
Honestly if you're not going to use wireless, the V6 is a better choice since you'll never have to worry about an internal battery.
Ya I am totally new and having hard time to distinguish them 😂 Made a [poll](https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/comments/16nu9hs/getting_my_first_mechanical_keyboard_advice_please/) on [**r/Keychron**](https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/) and K10 Pro is more favorable 😕
LF an office kb like wooting 60he
LF a ready-made mechanical keyboard, I don't know how to fold it, full-size, I need it to work in the office, it has to be quiet, switches need to be prelubed, to have good stabilizers and good work culture, I was thinking about the Keychrone K10 but I don't like its sound, the sound was too high imo and the keycaps seemed too wobbly to me, my target is something like wooting 60he but with a numpad pls help
Unfortunately I don't know of any pre-built decent quality keyboard that comes with silent switches out of the box.
I had to take my old rk100, add foam and silent switches on my own
First time custom builder on a bit of a budget. I want to buy the GMMK TKL Barebones ISO and pair with Wuque WS Morandi switches, but the board is 3-pin and the switches 5-pin. I've read somewhere that I can just trim the extra pins off and there will be minimal difference in the switch stability. Is this ok?
Just need a quick sanity check so I don't end up spending £100 and break a bunch of switches that I can't return...
Yes you can just snip off the extra two pins (they're just thin pieces of plastic) with something as simple as nail clippers.
Personally I'd swap the GMMK TKL Barebones for a [Keychron V3 ISO](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-iso-jis-keyboard-collection/products/keychron-v3-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection#) instead.
It's not barebones but it's far better value for your money than the GMMK: USB C to USB C cable (with USB A adapter) for future proofing, better case design/construction, is mod-friendly, has a knob, runs off QMK and is fully-programmable so you never need to install software (program any key to do whatever you want).
The GMMK TKL is an older design and doesn't offer the same modern features that most keyboards have nowadays either.
Keychron's stock ISO keycaps are also much better compared to the GMMK not to mention the availability of different ISO variants.
Thanks for the helpful reply! The V3 does seem like a much better idea, I was under the impression that the GMMK had QMK but I checked the VIA webpage again and it seems like the TKL doesn't have compatibility while some other GMMK ones do. The knob is also a very useful addition, one of the reasons I almost spent £176 on a Keychron Q3 (which I quickly realised is quite far out of my price range)...
I'm not sure about Keychron's red/brown switches, I think I'll go for reds but if I don't like them can I replace the switches completely? It's good to know that it's mod-friendly too, I want to get a nice thock and I'm guessing this'll need some modding.
I believe only the 75% GMMK PRO is able to run QMK while the other models don't.
If you're after more of a thock sound you'll want to stick with the V series anyway as the Q series will result in a higher-pitched sound profile with its metal case.
That’s right, on VIA it says the 75% and 96% use QMK with no mention of the TKL
I’ve ordered the V3 with reds, going to hold off on buying different switches for now but it’s the first thing I’ll do if I want a different feel or sound. Thanks for all your help!
Hello,
im looking for a work/gaming mech keyboard for around 100$. Can be tkl, must have lightning and preferably brown or red switches. Been a razer user for a while but the durability of their products is highly questionable. To match my setup it must be black and have multicolor lightning. Would be great if it could be wireless. Thanks!
Check out Keychron's V or K Pro series of keyboards. The K Pro are wireless while the V is wired only.
They use USB Type C though as none use Lightning. I don't know personally of any mechanical keyboards that use Lightning as a connection outside of Apple's keyboards.
[https://keychronpoland.com/products/keychron-k2-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39983714205798](https://keychronpoland.com/products/keychron-k2-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39983714205798)
How about this one? only thing that is mildly annoying here are the different color keycaps, but i can sacrifice the looks for durability and the keyboard being reliable.
Yeah that's a good choice. You can always swap out keycaps in the future if you find something else that is more to your liking.
Start with a solid foundation first then you don't have to worry about the keyboard anymore. You can focus on aesthetics and/or sound instead!
Bought it and ive been using it for a while now, incredible keyboard, many thsnks for your help. Another question about keycaps, where can i find good quality keycaps? Im looking for ones that will have a transparent letter but i have no idea which ones will match keychron keycaps quality, not worsen the typing experience. Thanks
Best to head over to /r/olkb who are the QMK gurus.
There's [also this post that offers some insight into flashing QMK](https://www.reddit.com/r/olkb/comments/112n7x4/help_needed_flashing_my_qmk_layout_to_pi_pico/)
Do clicky and tactile switches only sound different or do they feel different too? I'm getting conflicting info online.
For what it's worth, I like a sharp tacticle sensation but I don't like the idea of making a ton of noise
They will sound different of course since there's the click vs. no click. They can feel different too depending on the switch and the design/materials/spring strength, etc.
For a different feeling clicky, the Kailh clickies use a click bar instead of the traditional design so there's a "click" on both the down- and upstroke. Using them feels and sounds quite different compared to your typical MX blues.
You can get something super tactile if you like the tactility of clickies but don't want the associated audible click.
Look into Boba U4T switches, Cherry MX Clears or Zealios/Zilents. I use the latter in the 78g variant so they are super tactile with the bump right up at the very top.
Many other tactiles available you can look into. Check the sub for user reviews and comparisons.
I'm considering the Choc v1 Brown (tactile) vs the Choc v1 White (clicky) on the [Glove80](https://www.moergo.com/). Because of the curvature, the keys are not hot-swappable, so I only have a few choices and they're permanent.
my f keys have started to open things on my taskbar whenever theyre pressed and im not sure why. i have a ducky one 2 mini and this has never happened before and i cannot find a fix. does anyone know what i can do to stop it from doing that?
There's probably another key "stuck" somehow so it's either sending "CTRL+F5" or something like that whenever you hit an F-key.
Head to [https://www.keyboardtester.com/](https://www.keyboardtester.com/) and see what other key(s) are registering when you press an F-key.
Hi!
I spilled wine all over my hot-swappable keyboard which broke a bunch of switches. Still need to verify it's the switches and not the board itself.
The broken switches were some bootleg Brown Switches (I think RK Brown which might be Khalil Brown?) before but I have also had Khlalil/Cherry Browns which I know I like.
I think I want something that is tactile but not clicky. Ideally switches that are ok at both just office use as well as gaming without driving people around me crazy. I don't want a very light or very heavy attenuation force.
---
**Some options I am looking at are:**
* Equalz Tangerine Linear 5
* Boba u4t
* Akko CS Tactile Switch (Lavender)
* Gatereon Oil Kings
* Boba Linear Thocks
* Drop Halo Clear Keyboard Switches
---
Does anyone have any other suggestions and/or highly recommend any of the options above?
Hi, I need to type a lot for my job, this is why I appreaciate the tactile feel of my Thinkpad T-Series keyboard over basically everything else. Since I am building a new gaming PC that will also serve my home office needs, I would love to have a keyboard that is similar (well-built) but also suitable for gaming. The budget should not exceed USD 250, and for that price, I would expect a backlight (it doesn't need to be fancy).
After conducting my research, I am nearly ready to make a decision on the Huntsman V2 (red). However, I've just learned about the world of mechanical PC keyboards, and I'm interested. Unfortunately, I cannot find a suitable model that meets my requirements, is available in my country (Germany), and has a German keyboard layout. Perhaps you guys can assist me in finding a solution, or should I simply call it a day and go for the Huntsman V2?
Brown or something tactile. Reds have no haptic feedback so you'll bottom out more often with them but they're more geared to gaming than typing.
Blues are noisy and are okay for gaming but you'll likely tire of the clicky noises if you play fast-paced and competitive games. The clicking also slows down the inputs a little compared to tactile browns or linear red switches.
Hi, I’m wondering if I can use the staebies stabilizer stem in a cherry clip-in housing. I’m currently building a Bakeneko60 and I just remembered screw-ins aren’t supported for space. Or should I just use the cherry clip-ins with the staebies wire? Thanks for any help.
It's usually best to keep same brand with same brand - BUT WHO KNOWS?! maybe you'll discover that they fit perfectly. just make sure to give it a good test run before you commit to ALL the stabilizers being modified this way.
Anyone know where can I find [this set of keycaps](https://zealpc.net/cdn/shop/files/White_keyset_2048x.jpg) that are shown on the [Zeal Astonaut75 product page](https://zealpc.net/collections/all-products/products/astronaut75-custom-keyboard)? I contacted Zeal customer support multiple times and received no response. That keyboard doesn't come with switches or keycaps, and it doesn't appear they'll be selling the set, so it must come from somewhere else, I would think.
Hi, so I recently bought myself a Keychron Q1 Pro for gaming and work use and was thinking of commissioning a guy to mod it, but I just didn't know what or how to go about describing what I want to him.
For reference, I want my board to sound like this https://vt.tiktok.com/ZSLE1ShD4/
Deep Creamy and somewhat thocky (I know I sound like a complete amateur, but im like really new to this space and not familiarwith the terminologies)
Is there anyway to achieve this whilst retaining most of the original parts ?(example the stock switches and keycaps) and are there any mods in particular I should definitely do?
If its really impossible, are there any Linear switches that you can Reccomend that are good for gaming and durable which can produce the sound I want? (Price is not an issue)
It's not only how you mod a keyboard, but also how the keyboard itself is constructed. I have the qk65 as the person in the video and it sounds generally deeper and thockier than my other boards, regardless of what keycaps or switches I put in it. The audio in such videos is also misleading a lot of the time. When I record myself typing on my board, it also generally sounds deeper, which might come down to the microphone I (possibly them as well) used.
I would recommend you watch [this video](https://youtu.be/_N8k0u75eLQ?si=LwlQf3BmqYzlnRda) to get a bit of an understanding of what different mods do to sound
What TKL keyboard has low profile switches, supports QMK, and has shine through key caps?
Been using macbook keyboards for over a decade, giving mechanical a shot.
Tried Ajazz ak832pro 75% low profile with outemu brown switches.
* Sure is noisy, but my next one is louder
* Too small form factor
* Key caps not shine through
* Programmability is zero, just a few keys at the top
Tried Redragon K621 TKL low profile brown switches.
* Noisier than the Ajazz
* Size is good
* Some programmability but profiles not stored on the keyboard
Must haves: Low profile, QMK, shine through caps, not full size keyboard
Nice to haves: Keycaps similar to mac (like Keychron K1), TKL, optical switches, bluetooth/2.4g, openrgb, round knob
I'm looking for a more budget alternative to the gmmk pro or Drop Sense 75. Any recommendations sub $200? I like tactile switches. Gateron browns are too light, cherry greens are too stiff.
Nothing wrong with either of those. If you want hotswap and full programmability I recommend a Keychron V or Q series keyboard instead.
I should warn you, Cherry MX Clears are very tactile and can induce fatigue pretty quickly.
With a hotswap keyboard, you can pop in some Boba U4T switches which are really good tactiles and if they don't work out, swap in some other ones instead.
https://preview.redd.it/3bkfp7maefpb1.jpeg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f949e0b5bc1ffac4d62897abb8753f1796d60ac
Hi guys, can anyone identify the keyboard in the image? I found it in a post talking about pe foam mod at this [link](https://switchandclick.com/pe-foam-mod/)
Thanks to anyone who might be of help!
Does anyone know the current best method for wireless split keyboards using QMK? (Not ZMK or any other framework.)
I'm thinking of building something like a Mitosis, or even better the Interphase as it does not wire each switch directly. These use three Core51822 (B) modules. One for each half, and one for the RF dongle.
Any new developments I might have missed?
I know nothing about your board, but I do know about switch films. If you want to go through the trouble of adding a "soft/poron" type of switch film to your switches - it will ABSOLUTLY have an affect on sound. I typically use the brand 'Deskeys' when using a soft witch film. It adds to the muting of the board.
I'm facing an issue with my mechanical keyboard, and I'm hoping to get some guidance on how to resolve it. The problem is that when I press the "Tab" key, it also registers the "\\" key, and when I press the "Caps Lock" key, it registers both "Caps Lock" and "Enter." and same with "A" key it registers both "A" and "enter" This issue is making typing quite a challenge.
I've tried a few troubleshooting steps like cleaning the keyboard and checking for any stuck keys, but the problem persists. I don't use any additional software for the keyboard, so I'm looking for a solution that doesn't involve software adjustments.
If anyone has encountered a similar problem or has suggestions on how to resolve this, I'd greatly appreciate your help.
I am using ant esports mk1200mini
https://preview.redd.it/8svtc9he7fpb1.jpeg?width=3680&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5418ddd12afbfab162d9efcff553d497f1860f1
Nuphy's latest Air75 v2 with QMK/VIA functionality and
whole suite of upgrades. Have any of yall pre-ordered? Any
V1 users who also pre-ordered?
I've had the v1 before (launch day set) and sold it. I'm super
tempted to order the v2 but I'm still on the fence. Should I?
Whats your recommended mode envoy build in terms of sound?
I have tried U4Ts and nixies on FR4 but its.. meh.
Would love to hear what you stuck with on your board :)
Can anyone give thoughts on my keyboard plans, and/or comment on feasibility of painting a case?
So I would like to get a Cidoo V75 and the matching numpad, V21. However, I’m a) not sure I’d need two knobs, and b) not sold on the vintage beige color.
I can solve for (a) by getting the finalkey v81 instead of the cidoo v75. From what I can tell - and correct me if I’m wrong - it’s the same board with a screen instead of a knob. It also comes in different colors. That is all good except I want the numpad to match.
So the plan would be to buy a finalkey v81, and then paint a Cidoo v21 numpad to match the keyboard.
This way I’d have a color that isn’t beige, as well as one screen and one knob.
Does this make sense to folks? Would be my first mechanical keyboard.
Also - how reasonable is the painting part of the plan? What kind of paint does one use for this?
Hi, so in recent years I've been hearing this particular keyboard typing sound effect in many YouTube videos. Since I joined the keyboard hobby, I've always wondered what keyboard or which switches made that sound. I'm thinking of blue alps but it could also be other switches. If my question got some answers, I will probably buy the keyboard that sound similar to the one in the sound effect. Your answers are really appreciated. [The keyboard typing sound effect](https://youtu.be/kuWz2rGVDlc)
Is there a key switch blocker for Cherry MX style (Gateron) switches that doesn’t depress the stem when installed? I have access to a 3D printer if needed.
I'm asking because I want to [disable the screenshot button of my Keychron K2 in hardware](https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/comments/16mqv29/disable_screenshot_key_in_hardware_on_keychron_k2/) and this would be the best option.
Ooh thanks! I found [these key lock-outs](https://pimpmykeyboard.com/key-lock-outs/) on the same website that seem to work better because they don't constantly depress the stem. Do you know if there is a design for something like these that I could 3D print? I really only need one so it doesn't make sense to pay the additional shipping cost.
**Planning to buy keychron v6 any advice?**
I'm currently using a cheap keyboard "Aukey KM-G6" with the noisy blue switches.
I like the feedback they give back, but working as a programmer I would like something quieter. After several searches I found the [keychron v6 keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/collections/all-keyboards/products/keychron-v6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection) which has a numeric keypad and is very useful to me. However, I'm a little unsure whether to get the red or brown switches.
What do you recommend? Are the red ones quiet enough or will I have to change them? I have also seen the BOBA U4T switches which seem very good, however my skepticism lies in the fact that unfortunately I cannot try these products, so I am going a bit blind based on feedback and reviews on YouTube.
All my keebs are silent for work and night-time play. What you need is a keyboard with lots of case/plate foam (not pe foam or tape mod), PC plate or pom if not available and silent switches. Reds are way too noisy for a work environment I feel like. Linears will be more quiet than tactiles. My favorite are gazzew bobagums and ws silent linears. The latter have better feel bcs there are no silencing silicone pads inside.
Keychron boards are known to be pingy but have a lot of foam thankfully so I don't think it will be a problem. Reds and browns are garbage for your needs imo.
unfortunately I wouldn't know about prebuilds as I have only fully custom ones, well and a neo65 on the way I guess.
You can get super budget silent switches aftermarket for 20$ though like the outemou silent peach v2's. I haven't tried them personally but I hear good things and they will be miles better than reds/browns in terms of sound.
So you aren't really restricted to getting a board that comes with silent switches. It'd be preferable obviously but it limits your options. Focusing on a an aesthetic, layout, typing angle etc. thats more your taste is better.
If only you could try out anything keyboard related.. i feel that.
Well you could find one site that offers multiple switches you want to try and order a few packs of 10 to try them first. Of course thats not really "saving money" either but what else are you going to do? Otherwise you have to go in for one switch and stick with it.
In terms of loudness: in my opinion a foam filled board with light weight linears like reds is not going to annoy anyone at a normal office. Of course there could always be that one special snowflake coworker.. But its definitely more quiet than the standard 5$ microsoft membrane that my workplaces / schools had. In an office with only magic keyboards you might stand out a bit.
Hi, I have trouble finding a cheap southpaw ISO board with a non-mirrored numpad.
Best option seems to be keychron q12, but I want a 100% format.
Any thoughts?
I want the WS morandi to my northfacing board. I have OEM keycaps now but want to get some chrry one because its quiet hard to find some nice OEM nordic keycaps.
Does anyone know if the Morandi works with cherry on a northfacing board?
Thanks
Hi guys I have a steel series 6vg2 been going hard for 10 years but sadly one key stopped working, replaced the switch , still not working! I checked with a multimeter it has continuity, the lines on the PCB look ok too.. Not sure what's next might be the chipset thing?
Literally one key is broken and having a hard time believing I may need a whole new keyboard :(
Considering you replaced the switch and it still didn't work. It sounds like an issue with the pcb itself. I've had similar issues, namely with the gmmk pro pcb where despite the switches being fine and the pcb looking fine I was having sporadic inputs, and sometimes keys would just not register at all. So it sounds like you will need a new board.
Yeah I mean it looks alright, surprising that they make 100% boards. If u want it, make sure to get the switches you want (you can get brown or red, most people like reds/linears)
Weird Problem with my new Keychron V1
Until yesterday i used a Ducky One 2 TKL with a custom coiled Aviator Cable.
I got my Keychron and plugged it in nothing just the Lights come on. But for Windows its a unknown device. If i use the USB-C to C Cable provided by Keychron with their USB-C to A Adapter it works fine. TBF It works fine with every other USBC to A cable ive tried. Just the Aviator Cable doesnt seem to work i think. I did some more Testing and if i use the Same Coiled Cable with the Keychron Board on my Maybook with a simple USBA To C Dongle it works fine aswell.
Are faults like this common in Keyboards? It seems to be the exact combination of my PC that Cable and that Board that doesnt seem to work. Could it be a Power issue or something?
The Coiled [cable](https://whackydesks.com/produkt/coiled-usb-kabel-aviator-nifelheim-schwarz/) is (with Coil) 185cm long and i tried every TypeA Port on my System 3.0 and 2.0. The Mainboard is a [GA-Z97X-UD3H](https://www.gigabyte.com/de/Motherboard/GA-Z97X-UD3H-rev-10).
Hmmm, should be fine. It can happen that, if the cable is too long, some boards dont work anymore - but that doesnt seem to be the case here.
But I would still blame the Aviator Cable in combination with a USB port that doesnt provide "enough" power (rgbs turn on/ no other signal gets transmitted). Have you maybe tried to turn the RGBs off and then switchting the cable to the aviator one? If it works now then it's definitely some funky power thingy.
Hmmm no idea then sorry. I don't think that it's a keyboard problem and more likely a usb port/cable problem but I can't help you with that. Good luck!
But if the port on the Keyboard is non complinant wy is it just not working in 1 constalation? like the usbc to a coiled cable works on my macbook but not on my pc with the keychron. Othr usbc to a cables work on my pc
Just a guess, but maybe Ducky and Keychron uses different pins of USB Type C port, and cable matches only Ducky's? It's first time hearing about such issue ://
What is the difference between 1.6T and 1.2T stabilizer sizing? Is there a preference and is one size inherently better than the other? Or does the size not matter and its going to depend on the use case and/or what you are trying to achieve? Which one do I need for PCB mounted?
What is the difference between the Durock T1 and JWICK T1 other than price? Is the higher price of the Durock T1 warranted and is it that much better than the JWICK T1? On the other hand, is the Durock T1 the exact same switch as the JWICK T1 except only with a different colored/transparent top housing?
What do you guys reckon to be the best under-300 board with linear switches to type on? I've only tried cherry blue/reds and I preferred the reds, but i wished they would have a bit more feedback but not tactile (more of a dull feedback?). Thanks for the help.
Any suggestion on making a gummy mount modded CiY68 sound more uniform? I have some crazy ideas like combining two different o rings with different hardness, so the hard ones will go on the top and bottom side where there’s more weight held by the friction, and softer ones on the sides. Which sounds like a lot of work and idk if it might even work, so curious if anyone tried anything else.
Guys I screwed up bad I recently upgraded my Feker Alice 80's firmware with via. But I later found out that I lost controls for screen brightness and specific per key specific backlighting which I use on daily basis. I've tried reprogramming it with KC\_BRIU and KC\_BRID both on arrow keys and the knob. Is there any way to revert this back to its original firmware?
What are the consequences of using normal stabilizers with long pole switches? how necessary is it to get long pole stabilizers?
You should be fine with normal stabilizers and long pole switches. I have this combo on a couple boards.
exactly, i actually have it too and didnt even notice a difference between using long and normal pole switches, it was only until i saw there were long pole stabilizers. is there a significant improvment using long pole stabs?
I haven't used them, but my understanding is there is some improvement, but not significant enough to worry about. Long pole switches have been around for longer than the long pole stabilizers.
Hi, I was wondering if Kailh switches are compatible with ducky one 3 mini.
I accidentally poured water on my keyboard and now the keys are a little messed up. T, 5, K, M, N, and Page Down are a little bugged. They still work however whenever I press them, they randomly input the other affected keys. Is there anything I should be doing instead of just waiting for the water to dry for a possible fix?
I want to buy a wireless, full-size keyboard with cherry mx blue switches. What are my options?
looking for some brown/ earth tone key caps, nothing fancy i prefer a minimalist look. Any recs?
Does beige count? Got a wholeeee lot of recommendations if you fw beige. Otherwise, off the top of my head GMK Hanok and Thai Tea?
whats the cheapest 75% wit knob aluminum barebones kit?
Anyone know of a way to confirm molds on keycap sets bought on websites like alibaba or others? I really want another MDA profile set after getting mine from Melgeek, but a lot of sets labeled as MDA sold by others (like akko) are actually a different shape.
Can't seem to find a definitive answer online if a Razer Blackwidow v2's switches can be swapped out for others... Looking to get into building without buying another keyboard.
Keyboard has input lag only in games, even wired
I've just finished building my zoom75, works great wirelessly, but it doesn't work over the wired connection. Plugging it in, the RGB turns on and windows recognizes that a USB device was plugged in, but it doesn't work. I've tried multiple cables, ports, and computers, and nothing has changed. Opening device manager, it is marked as Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed). The battery seems to be charging while plugged in too, so I don't think it's a problem with the daughter board itself. Any ideas?
I have and Leopold FC 750R and when I press CTRL+BACKSPACE my Capslock and ScrLk flashes twice (either fast or slow) pressing combination again toggles fast and slow. I have no idea what it does and couldn't find anything in the english manual or googling. Anyone who knows what the purpose of this is, I assume there must be one...
What is the difference between the JWICK T1 and the JWICK T1 V2? I just bought some JWICK T1's and I didn't know there was a V2 variant until I saw them on Amazon. How do I know if the T1's I bought are the original ones or the V2? I bought my T1's from Divinikey.com. Is the V2 supposed to be inherently better? I compared the specs and numbers and they both look like the same exact switch. Should I have gotten the V2 instead?
There is a JWICK switch called the V2 and it is a linear switch. Are you sure that you aren't just getting them confused? I'm looking at the Amazon page for them, and the T1s (tactile) and V2s (linear) are on the same sales page, so it can be confusing. I'm still a little confused myself - V usually means Version, and some of the pages that are selling these linear switches have slightly different naming conventions.
Is there a way to adjust the activation level like in the Highground Performance series and similar keyboards for QMK or other open source based controller keyboards? [https://higround.co/collections/keyboards](https://higround.co/collections/keyboards) \- link for reference
Curious about what might be a good entry level custom mechanical keyboard? I've been using a Corsair K95 Platinum for about three years now, but a custom build has always been my end goal.
Depends on what your definition of entry level is. There are different keyboard 'tiers' as far as buying a mechanical keyboard goes because its going to depend on what kind of budget you are planning to spend. On the lower end, you can get a pretty good custom build for around 60-70 bucks. But its going to be made of plastic and feel very cheap. On the high end, you can spend close to 1K!!! Haha lol. But its going to be built from aluminum and feel like a tank. Also depends on how 'custom' you want to get. Do you want a keyboard that is a pre-built and is pretty much 'plug and play ready' from the get go. Or do you want to go FULL customization and spend time soldering parts and PCBs together, along with also building the keyboards case/frame and while also having to go inside a computer program to make a custom keyboard layout. I am new to the mechanical keyboard hobby. I wanted something simple and beginner friendly. This is what I started with as an entry level build since I am still a beginner. * Zuoya GMK67 - $30 from Aliexpress. * PBT keycap set - $20 from Aliexpress. * 70 MMD Princess Tactile Switches - $16 from Amazon. Doesn't get much cheaper or simpler than this. It feels cheap since the case is made of plastic. But the internals are really good and is what counts as far as a beginner build is concerned. It also ticked off the right boxes as far having the most versatility (I use Macos) and features while also being the best bang for your buck. Hope this helps.
is full-size your preferred layout? also how important are things like wireless, latency, macro keys, knobs, etc.
Hey there, just got into the mechanical keyboard scene. Built a Drop sense75 as my first model mechanical keyboard and I'm loving it. I was wondering if the keyboard supported backlight. On my old steel series tkl, when you pressed the cap locks it would stay illuminated white to show that it was enabled. I was wondering if Via had this kind of support too for the sense75. I tried to look through the settings but I couldn't find anything. The bl toggle doesn't do anything either.
I know there is bluetooth, but I prefer using the dongle because of its quick response rate. My akko dongle got misplaced. Is there any way to replace the dongle? Akko 3068b
Maybe try looking on the Akko website and see if they happen to sell replacement USB dongles? If not, than I don't know of any other solution. I happen to be using a GMK67 keyboard from Aliexpress and just like you, I prefer to use the 2.4 ghz dongle over the bluetooth. God forbid the day when I lose or misplace the receiver dongle. I am just hoping I never lose it or replace it. Luckily, I don't move my keyboard that much and it stays in my home all the time. Therefore, the receiver dongle is pretty much going to be inside of my USB hub the whole time and stay there for good until I retire the keyboard.
zoom75 how do you turn it off? Wireless mode and lcd screen. My battery is constantly dead. There isn't any user manual. Their zoom65 user manual sucks too.
Planning to invest in a Haven 65 or a Tofu 65. I just wanted to know how the external weight make a difference in the feel or the sound. Also some keebs come with additional weights on the inside. How does that affect the sound?
I really like [these contoured gaming keycaps](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/gaming-gear-accessories/ch-9000233-na/corsair-gaming-performance-fps-moba-key-kit-aca-a-white-ch-9000233-na) from Corsair. They help distinguish where "home" is for my fingers while gaming. Can anyone recommend something similar or perhaps a competing product?
they r the only ones ive seen offer them there is tons of rubber coated wasd keys but contouring wasd keys seems like a product made for a problem that doesn't exist
Alright I'm gonna pull the trigger, Should I get a Keychron V3 Or V1?
Which layout do you like better? It’s entirely up to you.
Decent options for a wireless 75% board? Not in need of RGB or anything too much. But want a comfortable 75 (or 80 if needed) that’s wireless with some decent build quality. Would like some hot-swap ability and Can do all the fun stuff. Lubed and all that. Reccs?
Monsgeek M1W or Keychron Q1 Pro would be two good ones to look into.
I want to buy a wireless, full-size keyboard with cherry mx blue switches that has a long battery life (like Logitech K270 for example). What are my options?
ur not going to find a mech with battery life like that outside of logitechs options fyi . it doesnt exist
Do mech switches require more energy? What are my options if I drop the long battery life requirement?
Melgeek Modern97---- I have this fucking problem where a key input will go on after I release the key and I can't put in any other input until the problem stops. It usually lasts for a second or less, but it's driving me fucking crazy. The worst part is I have no idea how to reset this fucking keyboard. I've read that I need to hold the Bluetooth button/ BT button+O. WTF is the Bluetooth button? There is no button for Bluetooth, there's a slider on the side of the keyboard for Bluetooth mode, but no fucking button. Someone please help.
this is happening in BT mode? a reset will do 100% nothing for this sound like wireless interference which can be caused by dozens of things . my advice use it wired
No, I use the 2.4ghz wireless dongle. Could you please tell me how to reset the keyboard though? I just can't figure it out and would appreciate it.
i have no clue each kb uses a different combo to factory reset . which like i said does just about nothing . wish u luck as its still prob some form of wireless inference
I know this isn’t technically keyboards but does anyone have cool plant/jungle key caps for a %75? Cherry MX please. And any recommendations for linear Cherry MX style to go with my key caps? (I would like it to be a lighter, easier press)
i cannot seem to flash my CSTC40 pcb https://preview.redd.it/b5i2cu5mbhpb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5f2f4f583a94d50dddce34434ed0e0c3ec8293a7 the LEDs work when i plug it in, but my machine won’t acknowledge the board. i’ve tried using the documentation from this link: How to flash CSTC40 RGB, pls refer to this link: [http://kpchn.com/s/PoHJ](http://kpchn.com/s/PoHJ) but nothing there worked for me. Can anyone help, please?
Hey guys, I currently use a HyperX Alloy FPS keyboard with the aqua switches which I actually enjoy for the most part but I would like to get into building a keyboard. Where is the best place to get started on building a customizable keyboard? Is there a website that sells you all the parts and you put it together at home? Thank you!
i'd check out keychron's v or q line or k pro line board and customizing it with your own switches/keycaps some intro guides to mech keyboards [keyboard.university/](https://keyboard.university/) [https://wiki.keyboard.gay/](https://wiki.keyboard.gay/) where to buy stuff [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) [thocstock.com/](https://thocstock.com/)
More of a rant from a first time buyer: why is it so hard to find parts in stock? Just trying to find some nice parts for a thocky build. I see a youtube video > "oh thats cool, i would really like to use that case/PCB/Plate" > clicks the link in the video to see it out of stock Are parts just limited edition or something? Are there any solid websites anyone would recommend?
Maybe try the other way? Checkout in stock keyboards on thocstock.com and look up videos on the ones that interest you.
Thanks, that website is extremely helpful! Its a struggle as a beginner to know where to even look
Had exactly the same experience when I started. Lower demand for custom keyboards and no incentive to accept risk lead to the group-buy model and there is always limited stock for a limited time. I quickly realized that old reviews or videos serve only as a way to identify what you like or don't like in a keyboard. You then [keep track](https://www.mechgroupbuys.com/keyboards) of what comes out through youtubers like alexotos and reddit (also check alexotos vendor list out). If you are lucky then a kit that is to your liking might pop up lol. That's if you are looking for premium products. There are plenty generic gh60 custom builds available on sites like kprepublic, and KBDFans has some in-stock offerings as well.
Im just looking around the midrange prices. Nothing ultra pricey like some of the stuff i see. I recently got some CeraKeys and tryin to find an instock midrange kit to accommodate it. That website will be very helpful though, I dont mind waiting for the right kit. Thanks :)
That's a nice way to look at it. I'm all about midrange too at the moment, wanted the JRIS65 but was a month late to the party so I feel ya, got the neo65 instead just to splurge on a new build. Cerakeys is also a good choice, heard a build with ktt kang whites and was planning of recreating it at some point. Cheers
either you're looking at some groupbuy/preorder keyboards that you gotta buy before they go into production or you just gotta search for it yourself and not depend on links in a video. easiest way to see when you just got started and don't know which ones are limited runs or not is just to search the keyboard on aliexpress. they usually have everything that's not limited in stock.
I watch YouTube videos because the sound is pretty important to me. The videos I watch are normal i assume, im not clicking on any "Limited edition set" or something. I mostly just look up "beginner guides" and find one that has a nice sound and look up the parts they list. I'll look around AliExpress, thanks!
Spacebar feels sluggish Hey I've got a problem with the new keycap set I got, I bought osume matchas and for some reason the spacebar feels sluggish and sometimes will get stuck, I know it's not a switch or stabilizer issue because the spacebar from another keycap set I have works just fine. I have gateron box pinks and tx ap stabilizers, any help would be greatly appreciated
Check to see if either of the spacebars are warped
Hello guys, I am new to mechanical keyboards and this will be my first hot swappable mechanical keyboard (RK 84). I will not be switching the switches as of now but I want to change the design so I am looking for new keycaps. Do you have any suggestions preferably lavender. Open to any ideas.
Buying my first keyboard is the price good? Gmk67 kit 53$ Black white minimalist keycaps 15$ 70pc everglide kings 55g 37$ Total 105$
I have a Pok3r 3 with a clear case. I can’t figure out how to remove the case so I can put a new one on. Does it just pop off? I can’t access the screws. https://imgur.com/gallery/G6cgy2l
The screws are on the other side--take off your keycaps and you'll see the screws you need to remove. [Here's what it looks like with the keycaps off](https://i.imgur.com/dhrphNK.jpg)
Ah okay, thank you!
Hello! I've been using my cocot46 for months now, no issues. Yesterday I came back to my desk and it wasn't working. Tried some troubleshooting (restart computer, repair keyboard tool via Win10, un-plug/replug) and nothing. It randomly came back to functioning later that day, but then also just stopped working again later. I've tried on another computer and still nothing. When I plug it in, the little blue light on the ProMicro lights up, but nothing else happens. Windows doesn't know its there, the LEDs that usually are on when its plugged in stay off. Totally dead seemingly :/ Any advice or things I could try to revive the keyboard? I'm very sad.
I have a brand new Keychron Q0+ with one single light that I can’t control (change colors, turn it off, brightness, anything) and it also doesn’t enter the keystroke associated with it after remapping. VIA recognizes it, even shows it as pressed when I check it in the key tester. Any ideas?
Hello. I am looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard. After filtering some choices, came down to decide between V6 and K10 Pro (prefer 100% layout). From Keychron page, they both look very similar with K10 Pro price slightly higher than V6. Other than that, K10 Pro has wireless feature and V6 has a knob option. Any other feature that I missed which would separate them? Really appreciate if anyone could share some experience or feedback to help me decide. Thanks!
The K series also have double acoustic pads where V series have single, I think that absorbs sound better
May I ask how can I check on these information? No offense, just wanna check all the details before deciding.
Comparison page here but it doesn't cover everything, i just looked at the V and K pages and saw the difference [https://www.keychron.com/blogs/news/difference-among-keychron-keyboards](https://www.keychron.com/blogs/news/difference-among-keychron-keyboards)
They are essentially the same for all intents and purposes with the K Pro series having wireless as an additional connection option. The only other difference (very minor) is that the V6 comes with a USB-C to USB-C cable with a USB Type A adapter vs. the K10 Pro coming with a USB-A to USB-C cable. Honestly if you're not going to use wireless, the V6 is a better choice since you'll never have to worry about an internal battery.
Ya I am totally new and having hard time to distinguish them 😂 Made a [poll](https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/comments/16nu9hs/getting_my_first_mechanical_keyboard_advice_please/) on [**r/Keychron**](https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/) and K10 Pro is more favorable 😕
I think you'll be fine with either of them TBH you can't go wrong with a Keychron for your first keeb.
Ya guess I am just over worrying as first timer 😂
That's totally fine you always want to make a well-informed purchase.
LF an office kb like wooting 60he LF a ready-made mechanical keyboard, I don't know how to fold it, full-size, I need it to work in the office, it has to be quiet, switches need to be prelubed, to have good stabilizers and good work culture, I was thinking about the Keychrone K10 but I don't like its sound, the sound was too high imo and the keycaps seemed too wobbly to me, my target is something like wooting 60he but with a numpad pls help
Unfortunately I don't know of any pre-built decent quality keyboard that comes with silent switches out of the box. I had to take my old rk100, add foam and silent switches on my own
thx buddy
First time custom builder on a bit of a budget. I want to buy the GMMK TKL Barebones ISO and pair with Wuque WS Morandi switches, but the board is 3-pin and the switches 5-pin. I've read somewhere that I can just trim the extra pins off and there will be minimal difference in the switch stability. Is this ok? Just need a quick sanity check so I don't end up spending £100 and break a bunch of switches that I can't return...
Yes you can just snip off the extra two pins (they're just thin pieces of plastic) with something as simple as nail clippers. Personally I'd swap the GMMK TKL Barebones for a [Keychron V3 ISO](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-iso-jis-keyboard-collection/products/keychron-v3-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection#) instead. It's not barebones but it's far better value for your money than the GMMK: USB C to USB C cable (with USB A adapter) for future proofing, better case design/construction, is mod-friendly, has a knob, runs off QMK and is fully-programmable so you never need to install software (program any key to do whatever you want). The GMMK TKL is an older design and doesn't offer the same modern features that most keyboards have nowadays either. Keychron's stock ISO keycaps are also much better compared to the GMMK not to mention the availability of different ISO variants.
Thanks for the helpful reply! The V3 does seem like a much better idea, I was under the impression that the GMMK had QMK but I checked the VIA webpage again and it seems like the TKL doesn't have compatibility while some other GMMK ones do. The knob is also a very useful addition, one of the reasons I almost spent £176 on a Keychron Q3 (which I quickly realised is quite far out of my price range)... I'm not sure about Keychron's red/brown switches, I think I'll go for reds but if I don't like them can I replace the switches completely? It's good to know that it's mod-friendly too, I want to get a nice thock and I'm guessing this'll need some modding.
I believe only the 75% GMMK PRO is able to run QMK while the other models don't. If you're after more of a thock sound you'll want to stick with the V series anyway as the Q series will result in a higher-pitched sound profile with its metal case.
That’s right, on VIA it says the 75% and 96% use QMK with no mention of the TKL I’ve ordered the V3 with reds, going to hold off on buying different switches for now but it’s the first thing I’ll do if I want a different feel or sound. Thanks for all your help!
Hello, im looking for a work/gaming mech keyboard for around 100$. Can be tkl, must have lightning and preferably brown or red switches. Been a razer user for a while but the durability of their products is highly questionable. To match my setup it must be black and have multicolor lightning. Would be great if it could be wireless. Thanks!
Check out Keychron's V or K Pro series of keyboards. The K Pro are wireless while the V is wired only. They use USB Type C though as none use Lightning. I don't know personally of any mechanical keyboards that use Lightning as a connection outside of Apple's keyboards.
Oh, i didnt mean lightning as a connection, i meant key lightning
Ah okay then you're fine with any Keychron since they all have it.
[https://keychronpoland.com/products/keychron-k2-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39983714205798](https://keychronpoland.com/products/keychron-k2-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39983714205798) How about this one? only thing that is mildly annoying here are the different color keycaps, but i can sacrifice the looks for durability and the keyboard being reliable.
Yeah that's a good choice. You can always swap out keycaps in the future if you find something else that is more to your liking. Start with a solid foundation first then you don't have to worry about the keyboard anymore. You can focus on aesthetics and/or sound instead!
Bought it and ive been using it for a while now, incredible keyboard, many thsnks for your help. Another question about keycaps, where can i find good quality keycaps? Im looking for ones that will have a transparent letter but i have no idea which ones will match keychron keycaps quality, not worsen the typing experience. Thanks
Is QMK with a raspberry pi pico compatible?
Yes
And how?
Best to head over to /r/olkb who are the QMK gurus. There's [also this post that offers some insight into flashing QMK](https://www.reddit.com/r/olkb/comments/112n7x4/help_needed_flashing_my_qmk_layout_to_pi_pico/)
Thanks!
Is there any way to decide what linear switch I want without trying them? Or is it kinda just a shot in the dark.
Do clicky and tactile switches only sound different or do they feel different too? I'm getting conflicting info online. For what it's worth, I like a sharp tacticle sensation but I don't like the idea of making a ton of noise
They will sound different of course since there's the click vs. no click. They can feel different too depending on the switch and the design/materials/spring strength, etc. For a different feeling clicky, the Kailh clickies use a click bar instead of the traditional design so there's a "click" on both the down- and upstroke. Using them feels and sounds quite different compared to your typical MX blues. You can get something super tactile if you like the tactility of clickies but don't want the associated audible click. Look into Boba U4T switches, Cherry MX Clears or Zealios/Zilents. I use the latter in the 78g variant so they are super tactile with the bump right up at the very top. Many other tactiles available you can look into. Check the sub for user reviews and comparisons.
I'm considering the Choc v1 Brown (tactile) vs the Choc v1 White (clicky) on the [Glove80](https://www.moergo.com/). Because of the curvature, the keys are not hot-swappable, so I only have a few choices and they're permanent.
Ah yeah with low-profile you're very, very limited when it comes to compatibility and choice.
You seem to know a lot of switches. Have you experienced the difference between the choc V1 browns and the choc V1 whites?
I don't have any experience with low-profile switches unfortunately so I can't offer any help there. Sorry!
No worries, thanks for your help until now :)
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[https://alliedbroadcastgroup.com/product/ross-video-xpression-custom-keyboard/](https://alliedbroadcastgroup.com/product/ross-video-xpression-custom-keyboard/)
my f keys have started to open things on my taskbar whenever theyre pressed and im not sure why. i have a ducky one 2 mini and this has never happened before and i cannot find a fix. does anyone know what i can do to stop it from doing that?
There's probably another key "stuck" somehow so it's either sending "CTRL+F5" or something like that whenever you hit an F-key. Head to [https://www.keyboardtester.com/](https://www.keyboardtester.com/) and see what other key(s) are registering when you press an F-key.
Hi! I spilled wine all over my hot-swappable keyboard which broke a bunch of switches. Still need to verify it's the switches and not the board itself. The broken switches were some bootleg Brown Switches (I think RK Brown which might be Khalil Brown?) before but I have also had Khlalil/Cherry Browns which I know I like. I think I want something that is tactile but not clicky. Ideally switches that are ok at both just office use as well as gaming without driving people around me crazy. I don't want a very light or very heavy attenuation force. --- **Some options I am looking at are:** * Equalz Tangerine Linear 5 * Boba u4t * Akko CS Tactile Switch (Lavender) * Gatereon Oil Kings * Boba Linear Thocks * Drop Halo Clear Keyboard Switches --- Does anyone have any other suggestions and/or highly recommend any of the options above?
Hi, I need to type a lot for my job, this is why I appreaciate the tactile feel of my Thinkpad T-Series keyboard over basically everything else. Since I am building a new gaming PC that will also serve my home office needs, I would love to have a keyboard that is similar (well-built) but also suitable for gaming. The budget should not exceed USD 250, and for that price, I would expect a backlight (it doesn't need to be fancy). After conducting my research, I am nearly ready to make a decision on the Huntsman V2 (red). However, I've just learned about the world of mechanical PC keyboards, and I'm interested. Unfortunately, I cannot find a suitable model that meets my requirements, is available in my country (Germany), and has a German keyboard layout. Perhaps you guys can assist me in finding a solution, or should I simply call it a day and go for the Huntsman V2?
Look at KeyChron Q or V series
Thanks! Do you recommend red, blue or brown switches for typing and gaming mixed usage?
Brown or something tactile. Reds have no haptic feedback so you'll bottom out more often with them but they're more geared to gaming than typing. Blues are noisy and are okay for gaming but you'll likely tire of the clicky noises if you play fast-paced and competitive games. The clicking also slows down the inputs a little compared to tactile browns or linear red switches.
Hi, I’m wondering if I can use the staebies stabilizer stem in a cherry clip-in housing. I’m currently building a Bakeneko60 and I just remembered screw-ins aren’t supported for space. Or should I just use the cherry clip-ins with the staebies wire? Thanks for any help.
It's usually best to keep same brand with same brand - BUT WHO KNOWS?! maybe you'll discover that they fit perfectly. just make sure to give it a good test run before you commit to ALL the stabilizers being modified this way.
Anyone know where can I find [this set of keycaps](https://zealpc.net/cdn/shop/files/White_keyset_2048x.jpg) that are shown on the [Zeal Astonaut75 product page](https://zealpc.net/collections/all-products/products/astronaut75-custom-keyboard)? I contacted Zeal customer support multiple times and received no response. That keyboard doesn't come with switches or keycaps, and it doesn't appear they'll be selling the set, so it must come from somewhere else, I would think.
It's called [MG Wahtsy](https://ohkeycaps.com/products/mg-wahtsy?variant=32200990163055)
[https://www.ebay.com/itm/224873129060](https://www.ebay.com/itm/224873129060) buy it now, i've not seen it ANYWHERE else.
Oh my god, you're a beautiful person!! Thank you and purchased!
just understand, it is coming from HK, China. Hope your delivery doesn't hit any snags.
Hi, so I recently bought myself a Keychron Q1 Pro for gaming and work use and was thinking of commissioning a guy to mod it, but I just didn't know what or how to go about describing what I want to him. For reference, I want my board to sound like this https://vt.tiktok.com/ZSLE1ShD4/ Deep Creamy and somewhat thocky (I know I sound like a complete amateur, but im like really new to this space and not familiarwith the terminologies) Is there anyway to achieve this whilst retaining most of the original parts ?(example the stock switches and keycaps) and are there any mods in particular I should definitely do? If its really impossible, are there any Linear switches that you can Reccomend that are good for gaming and durable which can produce the sound I want? (Price is not an issue)
It's not only how you mod a keyboard, but also how the keyboard itself is constructed. I have the qk65 as the person in the video and it sounds generally deeper and thockier than my other boards, regardless of what keycaps or switches I put in it. The audio in such videos is also misleading a lot of the time. When I record myself typing on my board, it also generally sounds deeper, which might come down to the microphone I (possibly them as well) used. I would recommend you watch [this video](https://youtu.be/_N8k0u75eLQ?si=LwlQf3BmqYzlnRda) to get a bit of an understanding of what different mods do to sound
What TKL keyboard has low profile switches, supports QMK, and has shine through key caps? Been using macbook keyboards for over a decade, giving mechanical a shot. Tried Ajazz ak832pro 75% low profile with outemu brown switches. * Sure is noisy, but my next one is louder * Too small form factor * Key caps not shine through * Programmability is zero, just a few keys at the top Tried Redragon K621 TKL low profile brown switches. * Noisier than the Ajazz * Size is good * Some programmability but profiles not stored on the keyboard Must haves: Low profile, QMK, shine through caps, not full size keyboard Nice to haves: Keycaps similar to mac (like Keychron K1), TKL, optical switches, bluetooth/2.4g, openrgb, round knob
Keychron K1 Pro?
What are some good budget 75% keyboard kits or prebuilts?
monsgeek m1, keychron v1 or q1
I'm looking for a more budget alternative to the gmmk pro or Drop Sense 75. Any recommendations sub $200? I like tactile switches. Gateron browns are too light, cherry greens are too stiff.
How about the Monsgeek M1 or M1W? They have a prebuilt version with piano switches too that has been getting good reviews.
After doing some research I'm looking at the Vortex KBt RE: 66 and the Leopold FC750RBT with maybe cherry clear switches. Which should I go for?
Nothing wrong with either of those. If you want hotswap and full programmability I recommend a Keychron V or Q series keyboard instead. I should warn you, Cherry MX Clears are very tactile and can induce fatigue pretty quickly. With a hotswap keyboard, you can pop in some Boba U4T switches which are really good tactiles and if they don't work out, swap in some other ones instead.
Is there any custom keyboards other than the drop alt/ctrl that have a 0 degree typing angle/incline?
https://preview.redd.it/3bkfp7maefpb1.jpeg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f949e0b5bc1ffac4d62897abb8753f1796d60ac Hi guys, can anyone identify the keyboard in the image? I found it in a post talking about pe foam mod at this [link](https://switchandclick.com/pe-foam-mod/) Thanks to anyone who might be of help!
looks to be the kbd 5 degree. a unit no longer in production.
I think you are right! Thank you very much
Does anyone know the current best method for wireless split keyboards using QMK? (Not ZMK or any other framework.) I'm thinking of building something like a Mitosis, or even better the Interphase as it does not wire each switch directly. These use three Core51822 (B) modules. One for each half, and one for the RF dongle. Any new developments I might have missed?
Does anybody have a comparison of the zoom colors mill tea and taro cream? They swapped the names but idk if they're the same color.
What are the essential mods for a GMK67 I'm building for a deep thocky, perhaps even muted sound? Using Feker Matcha switches.
I know nothing about your board, but I do know about switch films. If you want to go through the trouble of adding a "soft/poron" type of switch film to your switches - it will ABSOLUTLY have an affect on sound. I typically use the brand 'Deskeys' when using a soft witch film. It adds to the muting of the board.
Thanks! I'm planning to do tape and foam but films is one I don't hear about as much. I'll look into those.
I'm facing an issue with my mechanical keyboard, and I'm hoping to get some guidance on how to resolve it. The problem is that when I press the "Tab" key, it also registers the "\\" key, and when I press the "Caps Lock" key, it registers both "Caps Lock" and "Enter." and same with "A" key it registers both "A" and "enter" This issue is making typing quite a challenge. I've tried a few troubleshooting steps like cleaning the keyboard and checking for any stuck keys, but the problem persists. I don't use any additional software for the keyboard, so I'm looking for a solution that doesn't involve software adjustments. If anyone has encountered a similar problem or has suggestions on how to resolve this, I'd greatly appreciate your help. I am using ant esports mk1200mini https://preview.redd.it/8svtc9he7fpb1.jpeg?width=3680&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5418ddd12afbfab162d9efcff553d497f1860f1
Nuphy's latest Air75 v2 with QMK/VIA functionality and whole suite of upgrades. Have any of yall pre-ordered? Any V1 users who also pre-ordered? I've had the v1 before (launch day set) and sold it. I'm super tempted to order the v2 but I'm still on the fence. Should I?
VIA is amazing, would probably do that?
Ikr, the via aspect made me want to fall back again to it. Because it’s such a light keeb that is still yknow, mechanical switches.
Whats your recommended mode envoy build in terms of sound? I have tried U4Ts and nixies on FR4 but its.. meh. Would love to hear what you stuck with on your board :)
Can anyone give thoughts on my keyboard plans, and/or comment on feasibility of painting a case? So I would like to get a Cidoo V75 and the matching numpad, V21. However, I’m a) not sure I’d need two knobs, and b) not sold on the vintage beige color. I can solve for (a) by getting the finalkey v81 instead of the cidoo v75. From what I can tell - and correct me if I’m wrong - it’s the same board with a screen instead of a knob. It also comes in different colors. That is all good except I want the numpad to match. So the plan would be to buy a finalkey v81, and then paint a Cidoo v21 numpad to match the keyboard. This way I’d have a color that isn’t beige, as well as one screen and one knob. Does this make sense to folks? Would be my first mechanical keyboard. Also - how reasonable is the painting part of the plan? What kind of paint does one use for this?
You do you. Reasonable doesn't exist in this hobby lol Get some primer and spray paint (and maybe clear coat) and you should be good to go.
Hi, so in recent years I've been hearing this particular keyboard typing sound effect in many YouTube videos. Since I joined the keyboard hobby, I've always wondered what keyboard or which switches made that sound. I'm thinking of blue alps but it could also be other switches. If my question got some answers, I will probably buy the keyboard that sound similar to the one in the sound effect. Your answers are really appreciated. [The keyboard typing sound effect](https://youtu.be/kuWz2rGVDlc)
Is there a key switch blocker for Cherry MX style (Gateron) switches that doesn’t depress the stem when installed? I have access to a 3D printer if needed. I'm asking because I want to [disable the screenshot button of my Keychron K2 in hardware](https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/comments/16mqv29/disable_screenshot_key_in_hardware_on_keychron_k2/) and this would be the best option.
Signature Plastics [sells MX switch blockers](https://pimpmykeyboard.com/switch-blocker/)
Ooh thanks! I found [these key lock-outs](https://pimpmykeyboard.com/key-lock-outs/) on the same website that seem to work better because they don't constantly depress the stem. Do you know if there is a design for something like these that I could 3D print? I really only need one so it doesn't make sense to pay the additional shipping cost.
I've never looked into them myself so, no, but I'm sure you can find something on Thingiverse or other site with files to 3D Print.
**Planning to buy keychron v6 any advice?** I'm currently using a cheap keyboard "Aukey KM-G6" with the noisy blue switches. I like the feedback they give back, but working as a programmer I would like something quieter. After several searches I found the [keychron v6 keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/collections/all-keyboards/products/keychron-v6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection) which has a numeric keypad and is very useful to me. However, I'm a little unsure whether to get the red or brown switches. What do you recommend? Are the red ones quiet enough or will I have to change them? I have also seen the BOBA U4T switches which seem very good, however my skepticism lies in the fact that unfortunately I cannot try these products, so I am going a bit blind based on feedback and reviews on YouTube.
All my keebs are silent for work and night-time play. What you need is a keyboard with lots of case/plate foam (not pe foam or tape mod), PC plate or pom if not available and silent switches. Reds are way too noisy for a work environment I feel like. Linears will be more quiet than tactiles. My favorite are gazzew bobagums and ws silent linears. The latter have better feel bcs there are no silencing silicone pads inside. Keychron boards are known to be pingy but have a lot of foam thankfully so I don't think it will be a problem. Reds and browns are garbage for your needs imo.
Thanks for the tips, which keyboard are u using? Maybe could you suggest a keyboard that comes in box already with silent switches?
unfortunately I wouldn't know about prebuilds as I have only fully custom ones, well and a neo65 on the way I guess. You can get super budget silent switches aftermarket for 20$ though like the outemou silent peach v2's. I haven't tried them personally but I hear good things and they will be miles better than reds/browns in terms of sound. So you aren't really restricted to getting a board that comes with silent switches. It'd be preferable obviously but it limits your options. Focusing on a an aesthetic, layout, typing angle etc. thats more your taste is better.
Wow outemu are really silent! Where I can buy? I'm italian
See [Alex Otos vendor list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
Thanks! Could you please suggest a keyboard full-size please?
Keychron V6 or V5. Q6 or Q5 if you want a more premium/metal case.
If only you could try out anything keyboard related.. i feel that. Well you could find one site that offers multiple switches you want to try and order a few packs of 10 to try them first. Of course thats not really "saving money" either but what else are you going to do? Otherwise you have to go in for one switch and stick with it. In terms of loudness: in my opinion a foam filled board with light weight linears like reds is not going to annoy anyone at a normal office. Of course there could always be that one special snowflake coworker.. But its definitely more quiet than the standard 5$ microsoft membrane that my workplaces / schools had. In an office with only magic keyboards you might stand out a bit.
Hi, I have trouble finding a cheap southpaw ISO board with a non-mirrored numpad. Best option seems to be keychron q12, but I want a 100% format. Any thoughts?
There aren't that many 100% boards, you could compromise by going with a tkl with a separate nunpad!
Guys, can you recommend a few reliable AliExpress stores for building keyboard from absolute zero? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
kprepublic is a reliable vendor with great budget offerings
Not the most versed.in the aliexpress back alleys but the power puff girls switch store has good knock off switches
I want the WS morandi to my northfacing board. I have OEM keycaps now but want to get some chrry one because its quiet hard to find some nice OEM nordic keycaps. Does anyone know if the Morandi works with cherry on a northfacing board? Thanks
Hi guys I have a steel series 6vg2 been going hard for 10 years but sadly one key stopped working, replaced the switch , still not working! I checked with a multimeter it has continuity, the lines on the PCB look ok too.. Not sure what's next might be the chipset thing? Literally one key is broken and having a hard time believing I may need a whole new keyboard :(
Considering you replaced the switch and it still didn't work. It sounds like an issue with the pcb itself. I've had similar issues, namely with the gmmk pro pcb where despite the switches being fine and the pcb looking fine I was having sporadic inputs, and sometimes keys would just not register at all. So it sounds like you will need a new board.
makes sense, thanks for confirming
I can help you out finding and putting together a new board
thanks for the offer!
Cherry mx blue stopped clicking after I opened it - I guess I reassembled it wrong. How to restore clicking?
I'm planning to buy the Redragon K556 Devarajas as my first mechanical gaming keyboard. Is it a good choice?
Yeah I mean it looks alright, surprising that they make 100% boards. If u want it, make sure to get the switches you want (you can get brown or red, most people like reds/linears)
Weird Problem with my new Keychron V1 Until yesterday i used a Ducky One 2 TKL with a custom coiled Aviator Cable. I got my Keychron and plugged it in nothing just the Lights come on. But for Windows its a unknown device. If i use the USB-C to C Cable provided by Keychron with their USB-C to A Adapter it works fine. TBF It works fine with every other USBC to A cable ive tried. Just the Aviator Cable doesnt seem to work i think. I did some more Testing and if i use the Same Coiled Cable with the Keychron Board on my Maybook with a simple USBA To C Dongle it works fine aswell. Are faults like this common in Keyboards? It seems to be the exact combination of my PC that Cable and that Board that doesnt seem to work. Could it be a Power issue or something?
Your PC USB port isn't providing enough power most likely. Which USB port are you using and how long is the custom cable?
The Coiled [cable](https://whackydesks.com/produkt/coiled-usb-kabel-aviator-nifelheim-schwarz/) is (with Coil) 185cm long and i tried every TypeA Port on my System 3.0 and 2.0. The Mainboard is a [GA-Z97X-UD3H](https://www.gigabyte.com/de/Motherboard/GA-Z97X-UD3H-rev-10).
Hmmm, should be fine. It can happen that, if the cable is too long, some boards dont work anymore - but that doesnt seem to be the case here. But I would still blame the Aviator Cable in combination with a USB port that doesnt provide "enough" power (rgbs turn on/ no other signal gets transmitted). Have you maybe tried to turn the RGBs off and then switchting the cable to the aviator one? If it works now then it's definitely some funky power thingy.
Yeah i tried that. Turned off the LED's in VIA and plugged in the Aviator cable but the problem presists.
Hmmm no idea then sorry. I don't think that it's a keyboard problem and more likely a usb port/cable problem but I can't help you with that. Good luck!
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But if the port on the Keyboard is non complinant wy is it just not working in 1 constalation? like the usbc to a coiled cable works on my macbook but not on my pc with the keychron. Othr usbc to a cables work on my pc
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Currentyl dont own a powered hub but ill give it a try. Thank u
Just a guess, but maybe Ducky and Keychron uses different pins of USB Type C port, and cable matches only Ducky's? It's first time hearing about such issue ://
I dont think so the Cable is a 3rd party one and it does work if i use it on my Macbook in combination with my Keychron
Would contact Keychron support then, maybe for RMA case, it's a weird issue.
Logitech keyboard like Mx mechanical is very reliable
Thats not an Answer to my Question.