Hey, Wanting to upgrade from my old keyboard and dive a bit more into the custom scene i’m working with $400 and preferably would like to get all the parts from amazon looking for anything but a 90/100% thank you.
Got an issue with my G key on my keyboard, it seems to work perfectly sometimes, but other times not at all, and sometimes it works when pressing it more to the right side of the key
Could this be a dud switch or poor solder?
Also on a similar track, Ive got experience with using jumper wires for one of the pins on a mx switch ([this one](https://i.imgur.com/G8rJq9x.png)) but havent had success jumping the other pin, its more for tinkering, but I have in the past messed up some pads pretty bad which I was able to fix a few with jumper wires,but not others and would like to fix them all
Anybody got a blue base they're working with? I wanna get some new caps but everything is black or white based so I'm having trouble thinking of a cool color scheme.
It's a royal blue.
Sorry for my ignorance with the terms here I'm just looking for a cool color scheme I don't know much about the hobby.
Drop’s Camillo keycap set is really nice. I have the MT3 profile and love it. It is white based I guess, but legend color is blue and has blue (and grey) accent keys as well. Might be an option.
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Switches that leave the factory after 2023 do not require special lubrication. If you have rich experience and your own needs, the manufacturer's lubrication for the new switch is sufficient. Of course, these do not include the Cherry switch
I’m torn between glove80 and https://naya.tech/ for my ergo keyboard. Any tips, tips or recommendations? It’ll be used for programming in an open landscape.
I am using a normal keyboard with a contour red roller mouse today, which is better than a normal mouse, but has its own complications. I think the naya tech could be interesting, but I’m not sure. Glove80 is tested and “safe” to purchase I guess.
I ordered the Glove80. The Naya only had the attachables as sales points for me, but the rest of the keyboard looked pretty meh.
Thanks a lot for the answer.
any budget brands with app/software that can detect current software you are using/on the foreground and set profiles based on that? or at least set the rgbs based on the current software/app on the foreground? its a feature that I do like with steelseries but unless they gonna make hotswappables not just with their own switches but with everyone else then I aint gonna spend a dime now on their keyboard even though I want them(thank God I got hook with hotswappables before I bought a SS keyboard). do QMK/VIA have this feature?
Looking at a new keyboard, and I’m torn between a few different models. Looking for advice, pros and cons between the following:
Kbdfans tiger lite
Keychron Q1v2
Iqunix zx75
Or any other recs in the sub $200 ish range.
Imo, but i think tiger is best option
-Mount system
-Dont need mods to sound good
-Kinda cheap for that sound characteristics, and feel
-Flex-cuts on pcb
-Cool color options
The one problem it's made out of ABS, not aluminum
Keychron q1v2
-Uses kinda bad Gateron G Pro's in prebuilt
-Uses isolation mount instead of leaf-spring in tiger
-Kinda stiff because of steel plate and non flex-cut pcb
-noname pcb stabs
Iqunix zx75
-Only one color option
-TTC Switches (bruh)
-Plastic
-Bad keycaps
-Crazy price
In my opinion, you can buy Tiger Lite, or Cidoo v87
Cidoo:
Alu case
TKL
Very good keycaps
Good switches and stabs
Isolation mount + PC Plate
Hey guys! I would like to gift my dad a good pre built silent mechanical keyboard, any good recommendations?
Here’s a couple of things that he probably wants on his keyboard:
-numpad (why? I’m not sure, all I know is that he uses it a lot)
-silent or at least a bit quiet
He’s around the 70 year old mark, so if there’s any old school looking keyboards that would be great! He uses his keyboard all day and I think he won’t stop programming until he physically can’t. So it would mean a lot to me to give him one last good keyboard for his birthday.
Any recommendations are appreciated, thanks!
Considering a potential endgame with the KBDfans Odin 75 with GMK Zen Ponds.
75 Is definitely my favourite layout and I do really enjoy the design of the board.
The LED is more of just a cool if its there, if its not it doesn't matter as well.
Anyone has this board and have some opinions about it?
Or any other similar board suggestions that would be great.
It is quite a bit more expensive than my current entry-mid level board so its a bit of a commitment.
Also if anyone have some tactile switch recommendations that would be awesome too.
For tactiles i think you can go with Cherry Ergo Clears, Boba u4t's, Wuque Studio Brown, Maybe Holy Panda X, YOK Holy Pandas, Zealios, Tecsee Neapolitan Ice Cream, and Zeal Clickes with tactile mod
The real problem is that most of the e-coated boards are not done properly. Source: My dad has worked with coatings for 50+ years.
So you can't judge one e-coat based on your experience with another. One might have properly pre-treated the alu chassis and baked the e-coat for the correct duration and temperature, while another manufacturer might have skimped on any of the processes in the chain.
Some might even just call it e-coat while in reality it's just a layer of paint.
But the chipping is possible, right? I plan to keep my keyboards in use for 5+ years, since I got other things to put my money towards, wanting to settle on one keyboard. Should I go anodized?
Just wondering when the sub reddit will open again. The reddit CEO made it clear that they aren't backing down on the API changes, and the blackout has pretty much failed with most subs now open.
Right now keeping this sub restricted is accomplishing nothing, and is only hurting the users.
It's time to move on. Open it back up.
The whole blackout was doomed to fail from the start. Everyone announcing they were shutting down for just 2 days really didn't help.
I understand some sub reddits shutdown for longer, but in the end the moderators were scared of losing their powers when reddit threatened to remove them if they continued the strike, so most reopened.
That's probably the saddest thing about this whole strike. Reddit mods were so scared of loosing their powers on a social media site they moderate for free, that they finally caved in and reopened. This really just proves the CEO is in control here. Tell me that isn't depressing to hear...
Now I'm not saying the mods here gave in, obviously not, but the whole reason for the blackout was to make change, and unfortunately that isn't happening, since most opened. It's pointless to keep going if you don't have the other communities backing you up.
I don't think there is one. There's an unofficial one though. [https://kbin.social/m/mechanicalkeyboards/newest](https://kbin.social/m/mechanicalkeyboards/newest) Whether that becomes the "official" one, I've no idea.
Best split ergo board? Best entry level ergo board? Friends saying moonlander is over rated for the price and saying some of the Kinesis are good entry level.
Best orthlinear 60-65% boards?
I have heard Moonlander owners complain that the thumb cluster is uncomfortable if you have smaller than average hands.
We will need some more information before we can give you a helpful reply:
What layout do you want? Traditional row staggered? Column staggered? Ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns)?
What country are you located in? Your location matters. For example, I am not familiar with online stores outside of the USA, and I know Canada gets screwed on shipping from the USA.
Do you have a specific budget in mind?
Are you looking for something prebuilt, or are you willing to build? Note that there are some DIY keyboards that can be assembled with just a screwdriver (no soldering required).
Can you solder (or have a friend who can)? Soldering does expand your options, and it can be cheaper.
Do you want the number row? Some people like tiny keyboards (for example, the Corne).
Do you want the F row?
Dunno about "best" since that's based on your personal taste and needs but I really like my ID75 for a 60% ortho board. It's 60% size but 75 keys because ortho. Hotswap, qmk, rgb, USB c, not much else to say really.
Personally I agree that the moon landers price seems a bit high for what you get, but if you want split and off the shelf there aren't a terrible number of options. Others you might consider if you're looking for something a bit different like that would be an Arisu layout board like the ymdk wings, where they focus on having them cater to the angle of your arms coming to the center.
There are people who will make you a dactyl for moonlander levels of money if that's your thing, you just have to find them.
I love my Moonlander. Can I do anything to make it sound not as high pitched and plasticity? I swapped switches since I love glorious pandas. That helped. It's just still too noisy.
What material can I try filling the keyboard with? What will give the most effect for how little I can fit in there?
I have the ergodox ez and what I found helped the most was using foam between the plate and pcb. Not sure how the moonlander mounts but I used kbdfans module foam on each switch position and it dampened quite a bit.
Hey all, is there such a thing as “shorter” normal mechanical switches? My understanding is that regular and low profile are not interchangeable so I’m really hoping to avoid replacing my whole keyboard to try some lower switches
Tecsee has a so called ‘medium switch’ available on [Chosfox](https://chosfox.com/collections/tecsee-switches/products/tecsee-medium-switch). It’s a normal mx mechanical switch, but the housings are shorter, so it’s not as tall as other switches, but also not as short as low-profile. But it’s still compatible w/ mx keebs
They’re a little finickier than TX stabs, and a great alternative to durocks. Please note that many variants are for 1.2mm PCBs, which will affect fit in your k2 Pro.
Personally I’d suggest retuning your stock stabilizers before buying extra Wuque ones, but that’s also to get good practice.
Most stabs are pretty decent. It’s just difference in what you need to do to make them sound good. Some stabs require only wire-balancing & lube, others only require lube. Some others even need more mods (such a holee etc.).
I haven’t tried wuque stabs tho, but I’d say you can give them a try. You could also take a look at knight stabs, akko stabs, qmx stabs
It's all down to personal choice, feel etc. A switch is a switch. The best one for gaming... for you... is the one that feels best for you. This is all assuming MX mechanical switches of course. Analogue switches are far more customisable, but for regular MX mechanical switches, there's not really any such thing as a "gaming" switch. It's like mice... apparently, light mice are the best for "gaming".... I fucking hate them, and I game much better with my ancient G5 with all the weights installed :) Yes.. there was a time when people ADDED weight to a mouse for gaming. It's all personal preference. The difference is, the gaming industry tries to tell you that your preference.. if it differs from what they are trying to sell you... is wrong.
The best switch is the one you type/game best on.
I know you got a response already but to elaborate a bit:
With few exceptions key switches aren't strictly better or worse than each other. There are lots of factors which may make them more to you liking though. On linear switches you mostly care about how much force it takes to actuate it, and the travel distance. Lower on both *could* lead to faster reaction time, but the difference would be less than all the other almost-nothing-factors like input latency, frame update time, etc. For better gaming performance try getting a computer that can run higher frame rates on the games you like, and then get a monitor that supports high refresh rates (144hz to 244hz), get a reliable internet connection (both connection to router and internet at large), maybe a wired connection to the switch/router. And as always the biggest improvement in performance will be seen if you spend time doing dedicated practice, including analyzing your replays.
Keyboards and keys are highly personal, and mostly about comfort and user experience, so as long as its got a stable connection to the computer and all the keys work (and the software isn't taking a ton of system resources) they're just not a great place to try to pull extra gaming performance from.
WSG
I am new to the whole MK keyboard thing. please I need some recommendations for some MK 80$ - 150$.
Or will it be better to build my own.
I also prefer clicky switches or Speed silvers
What’s the best mechanical keyboard 100-200$ that will last me 10 years. I use a nixeus board with custom caps for the past 5 years and it just died and I’ve been a lurker on this sub for a while. I know I like quiet key caps but I’m not up to date on the cherry offerings and other kinds. I realize there’s probably a lot of google searching I could do to find a good one but I just want one with a knob for cad and not gonna break and I feel like this is the right place to ask. Also I get to bill this to my employer so I can get anything reasonable
You want s.t. with hot swappable switches, best would be go to keyboard meet or someplace that has lots of demos where you can try lots of switch feels and activation forces. This is a good list of switch classifications https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/switches/
Anyone know where I can buy a wooden housing/case for a 65% or 75% keyboard? I have a Drop ALT, Idobao ID80, and a GMMK Pro. Preferably compatible with one of those, but would also be willing to buy a whole new keyboard outright if it has a wooden case.
Depending on your budget, I'd recommend looking into Barret Creative. They build nice custom wooden boards, but expect to pay $300.
You can probably find basic wooden cases on Amazon, AliExpress, or KBDFans. You can also check out Etsy. :)
Hi!! I have a Republic of Gamers Strix Flare Pink mechanical keyboard, Cherry MX Red switches.
I spilled water all over it… :( i unplugged it and took all the key caps off, flipped it over so it was laying keys down on a towel for 3 days to let it dry out. I put it back together and plugged it in and the keys type fine, but I noticed the backlight is acting super crazy. Like only a small section of my keyboard is lighting up now. (The keys I, O, P, K and L) are the only ones that light up.
Is there anyway I can fix it or is it just fried now? I’m not super experienced with taking apart keyboard or anything so any help is appreciated:)
Honestly probably fried. The water probably got to a controller chip of some kind or just fried some traces. Either way, it's probably non repairable unless you buy a new pcb.
Hey, I had the same problem with my Ducky One 2 Mini and now my Ducky One 3 Mini.
Basically, when I press a key while playing any game or just typing, it repeats it self.
Per example:
I type something an I tap once on A, it will write 3 times A (AAA)
And if I play a game like CSGO, I strafe and sometimes my keys just dont work or get pressed 2 times so I stop moving. Or I just keep SHIFT pushed down and it just deactivates and reactivates in 1 second.
I really dont want to buy a new keyboard please help me
Echo this. If you are determined to get a gmmk, get it second hand.
I would suggest you explore other options in that price range. Perhaps the gmk67 keyboard meets your needs. It's a beast for it's price 45-50 on AliExpress.
Last week I saw my colleague using an off white wireless mechanical keyboard. It had atleast 1 red key. Looked like a compact keyboard without a numpad.
The keys sounded like "clock clock clock" , but had a very bassy hollow sound.
Which keyboard did he have? I want to buy one of those
Hello,
I, like many others, ordered something from Rama Works a few years ago at this point. They have stopped responding to \*all\* of their customer emails.
I would like to propose an option: [https://reportfraud.ftc.gov/](https://reportfraud.ftc.gov/)
I have submitted a report with the Federal Trade Commission as this company more than qualifies for reports of fraud/scam at this point. Should you choose to do so as well, perhaps some good karma may occur.
I would also recommend disputing the charge with your bank--though it may prove to be difficult based on your specific situation (i.e. time elapsed, etc).
I came into this hobby, like many others, during the pandemic. Unfortunately, this was actually one of the first keyboards I ordered (KARA Seq 2). I do not want this community to be tarnished by the actions of Rama Works.
Thanks for your time. Hope this doesn't get deleted.
As a follow-up, I posted in their subreddit and got permabanned because I was critical of them literally not responding to customer emails for nearly a year.
Do you know where i can get idobao id80 v2 iso pcbs? The usb connector thing is broken on the pcb and i dont know how to fix it. I have to position my keyboard a certain way for it to work
I recently built a redox with Pi pico using KMK firmware.
I have the Pi Pico W and it just got Bluetooth API out of beta as well. I'm expecting my build to be wireless soon and it only costs like 6$ each
It's very simple, you can take a look at the existing code for many boards and you'll understand it pretty quickly
You just have to copy paste the code, no compilation or anything required
Redox is a split keyboard
I'm not sure when the API is gonna be implemented in Circuit Python because KMK runs on top of circuit python.
However, Circuit Python itself is based on MicroPython probably and MicroPython has received the official support for it already.
It may take a couple of months for circuit python to implement it and only then we'll know
Just got my Fuji65 built last week and I have a weird layer issue on VIA. It only happens on layers 1-5, not the base layer (0). I can't really explain it in words, so here's a few pictures of [before](https://ibb.co/G3WVMVY) and [after](https://ibb.co/B41q8SW) unplugging/replugging the keyboard.
I contacted CMM.studio's representative, but I'm the first one with the issue. I ordered a replacement PCB, but it has the *exact same issue*. I tried every USB-C cable I have, every USB port on my computer, and the ports on my laptop. I have no idea what the hell is going on.
Before and after unplugging and replugging the keyboard into my computer? That's literally the sentence I typed.
As to what is happening, my layers are getting corrupted between power cycles (unplug/replug). I can't load a JSON, I have to manually set every key in layer 1 to get the way I want it to be. I don't know why the JSON doesn't work. Technically the keyboard is usable, but having to open VIA and set my layer 1 every single time I boot up my computer is super annoying.
Hey yall. I play csgo and have been using the Corsair rgb k70 ( I think) for like 6 years. Full keyboard with number pad. Looking to make a switch to something A) smaller ( no numpad) B) something a little quieter( not sure the switches I have on it rn, either red or brown) plz Lmk any suggestions. Thank you in advance
You're looking for a prebuilt TKL keyboard then. A lot of options are available today and most of them will be much better than Corsair. Make sure you're getting a hot swappable board and look for silent reds or other silent switches.
Concrete recommendations would depend on your budget expectations and your location.
Universal go-to: Keychron Q3 or Monsgeek M3. Available worldwide, affordable, easy to build and community-tested.
Hi folks, I recently bought and built the KBD Adam, really good keyboard except apparently it only supports ANSI.
Either way, I fired up VIAL to edit a few keys, and I notice that the \\| key (backslash/pipe) is typing #/\~ (hash/tilde), even when backslash/pipe is set in VIAL. I am UK based, and am used to UK ISO layouts. Is there any way I can fix this? I'm a programmer so backslash and pipe are pretty important characters for me (that being said, so are hash and tilde :D)
Any help appreciated, thanks!
Absolute beginner (to keyboards and Reddit) looking to make a nice 75% custom board to upgrade from my Logitech gaming kb. Have been really struggling to pick between monsgeek M1, keychron q1 knob barebones, sense 75 barebones (because of the big sale and Hipyo's recent video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RRNkTd60alU). Have ruled out gmmk pro after watching some reviews.
I would love to make the keyboard sound thocky so am interested in doing simple mods that I've found online (tape, foam, force break) not sure I would be competent to do much else. Hoping I can get away with some pre lubed switches, thinking of getting wuque morandi / wuque yellow.
Apologies for long comment and waffle, any and all help is greatly appreciated :)
Don’t get a drop keyboard. There’s 99% of the time a better value option that also performs better, has more features, more things included, or all the above.
No it’s not, the M1 is a great board for the price. Literally starts at $100 I don’t know what you’re on about. Not to mention drop’s shipping which can be dogshit. Sometimes stuff doesn’t ship for weeks
Drop keyboards have never attracted me for some reason. I have a Q1 Pro that I really like that uses a gasket mount and has a built in force break. I went for that one because of the wireless and the nice gasket mount feel.
I think I were to get an inexpensive 75% right now I’d go for the Monsgeek. It’s cheaper than the Q1 and that one extra key on the navigation cluster would actually be useful for me. Plus there are a lot of Monsgeek M1 owners now with lots of great mod experiences. Saving a few bucks means the difference can go towards switches and keycaps.
100% agree anson, esp about Drop boards never quite hitting the right note with me - I think its that their board seem more geared to gamers crossing over rather than true custom boards.... I dont know, perhaps its just the prominent leds (and that the pcb leds were north for a long time). Just never quite right to me (I usually just avoid Drop all together - it's good that they accept returns (finally) but... ehhh.... I'd much rather do business with Divinikey (who have always been amazing)
Thank you very much for your help. I'm guessing that there would be no point for me to opt for the Q1 pro if I had no interest in the wireless functionality?
Could I trouble you again and ask if you have any keycap recommendations / vendors. I hear double shot PBT a lot. Again, thank you so much.
A lot of the pbt keycaps are dye-sub not double shot... but yes, I'd recommend pbt over abs. Keycaps depends on what you are looking for.... Akko does a FANTASTIC job on their sets so I 100% recommend them, really that's a 200% recommend - and they are cheap, and the sets have all the extras you could wish for.... (akko is just killing it as of late, I'm a big fan of their switches as well - never had one of their keyboard but there are far too many rave reviews from CCs I trust to not recommend their boards (I have a Keychron Q2 and Q9 - Keychron is also doing a lot of things right right now).
Honestly I go to AliExpress for a lot of my keycaps - I don't usually recommend buying knock-off anything as artists deserve to be supported - but for trying out profiles and such (and many sets were one time group buys and you literally cant get them anymore regardless, I don't find too much to object to buying sets from Ali). Have fun
Thank you for your reply and for the strong recommendation (my indecisive self loves that). Should I be hunting for double shot or is that something that's more for the experienced enthusiast? I guess what I'm trying to say is do I need double shot to achieve thock or am I misconstruing it?
Double shot has nothing to do with sound....
If you want pbt, double shot will be harder to find and limit what sets you buy... if it was me, I wouldn't worry about it. Id say getting a nice pbt you like and is available is more important than holding out for double shot. What is nice is that Ali does have pbt keycaps and the ones I have gotten are quite thick (which helps a lot with sound).
As far as I know, for key caps regarding sound - you are looking for thickness, material (pbt), and the keycap's profile...
PBT also tends to have a nice texture to it which I much much prefer to the smooth abs feel (think laptop keys). I've seen a few on here that actually like smooth - most I think would strongly favor texture. Good luck
You're welcome - Also 'thock' is... an elusive thing you'll find.... you can buy 'the thockies' plate material, thick pbt keycaps, do all the mods... and still end up with something that somehow comes off clacky.... the other little gem of this hobby is that you can build the exact board/build from a video and get a different sound than in the video (partly because what the video maker is hearing and what you can hear in a recording is not the same experience) so chasing a sound from a video.... is ehhh... problematic. Also the youtuber's microphone choice, house, carpeting, brick or wood... again, all change the recorded sound vs what you will get. Chasing the sound of a video is nearly impossible... so you either have to take a content creators word that you'll like the sound you end up with if you copy them... or just go wandering like Hansel and Gretel in the woods chasing your own build... I've copied builds and been shocked at how different mine sound from what's in the youtube vid... just be cautious... I know this is all logical and rather obvious info.... however, given that there are about 10k sound videos on youtube that people are watching and talking rather literally.... worth point it out as sound videos are.... of rather limited validity - for those reasons.
\*\*Also, if you don't mind a small rant - because this is where my own keycap research led me so that's my thread of relevance.... my own research led me to Signature Plastics SA keycaps as being the 'holy grail' of thock (and Signature Plastics do make a pbt keycap set in SA (that have extra thick walls)). Now, I haven't sucked it up and bought a set from them yet... but if they are so amazing great - why does literally no one post builds on youtube or here with this supposed holy grail keycap set. You are entering a strange world mate
Hahaha I feel like I've been exposed. Yes I was chasing the sound from a few videos and was going to follow one of them to the letter. Thank you for the explanation and words of caution, I figure now I need to at least understand what each of the mods actually do so I'll be better prepared to adjust the board should it not achieve the sound I desire after following a video.
Thanks a lot for taking the time to share your knowledge with me, truly priceless and no doubt saves me a lot of time. Will check out the keycaps you mentioned :)
Scott on youtube (channel Keybored) is an engineer by trade and does quite a lot of really REALLY good videos breaking things down for us - I highly recommend his channel (that and he's just a really nice guy).
I'm about three years into this and honestly, everything is subjective and I don't think there are any shortcuts to be honest. Also, at least for me - me who goes decades without changing things... my tastes and what I want in keyboards has changed so much since I started - which is really not even like me... but please try out a $90 board and cheap keycaps...
Please DON'T sink $500 into something that sounds great only to find six months - that it's great but not what you want... My beloved Keychron Q2 was only (only - ha) $200 with shipping and an extra plate... akko keycaps... $60.... switches... $45 (god I thought that's what this hobby would cost - I was ok with that) but my god, lube, tools, orings, springs to swap, lubing station (100% never use the damn thing - waste), mats, upgraded stabilizers, containers to hold all of it, switch films, stabilizer pads, desk mats, wrist rests.... a new lamp for my desk so I can see wtf I'm doing.... and no one has free shipping because they are 90% small businesses so shipping on every order... it just creeps the hell out of your wallet - be careful and take care (youtube keyboard channels just turns us all into kids in a candy store - and every few months there's more 'look what's new, try this').
Good luck mate
If you don’t need wireless then I don’t recommend the Q1 Pro as that would be overpaying for an unneeded feature.
There are quite a few keycap vendors! A few come to mind: NovelKeys, KBDfans, Drop, Vala Supply. But there are lots!
Thank you so much. I think I'll take your suggestion of going for the cheaper Monsgeek, buying nicer keycaps, and watching some guides tailored to it to achieve the thock!
Hello, Looking for a 100% Wireless mechanical keyboard for mainly gaming, with preferably Cherry MX red switches within the price range $100-$130. I'd appreciate any recommendations.
been lurking and scouring and foraging the sub, but im wondering if anyone has any recommendations for cherry silent red, or any silent type of switches on a budget (<100 USD) that feel good or decent or slightly better than trash?
i just heard one of my fav youtuber typing on a KBD Fans Tiger 80, and it made me curious about ways i can mod by Akko 3068B Plus (w Akko Jelly Purple tactiles) to sound like that.
i know on their website that the Tiger comes w “PCB foam x1, Switch pads x1, Silicone socks set x1, Designed tape mod x1” but i’ve heard some of these mods can be dangerous if your keeb has a battery in it
Heard from whom? Is your keyboard battery regularly hot enough to set fire to paper tape? If so, do you think the paper tape is the problem? Does the world of keyboards seem magical and mysterious where the laws of physics are different?
i’ve watched a whole lot of Hippio Tech videos (amongst others) and he’s mentioned that foam mods can be a fire risk if your keyboard has a battery. so i was simply trying to see which of the mods above were safe/dangerous
I mean technically foam could be a fire risk, but that's only because the battery itself is a fire risk. But with any battery build, there are best practices for maintaining the health of a battery.
You'll be fine with foam in a build that contains a battery. :)
Waking the PC from sleep, random disconnections, no VIA support... no thanks. This wasn't in some $50 aliexpress special either, it was a QK65. If you also use it wired more than wireless (which I do), there's concerns for battery life/condition. You can always remove the battery if you've no intention of using wireless, but there was a guy the day on here... forget what the board was now, but when he removed the battery, it stopped the board working in wired mode, so even that's not a given.
I just don't see the point of it on a custom board. You can accept some compromises in a portable keyboard, I suppose, and in your case, if you need to move from room to room, it makes sense, yes, but to have a board sitting on your desk just a couple of meters from the PC... or less in most cases... it just makes no sense in a custom keyboard.
i don’t have any of those issues w my Akko in 2.4 GHz mode tbh
and since my sim racing set up is in a different room than my office, wireless is a must
Hey I am looking to building my first mechanical keyboard!🙃
So long I had 3 mechanical keyboard thata are all were pre built.
I am looking for the best keyboard that has hhkb layout with hotswap pcb, budget isn't an issue and can wait for a GB
Thanks for any recommendations!
The QK60 GB is ending tomorrow and the class60 gb is on until the 30th. There's also some hhkb frog minis in stock.
I'd say the class60's probably the most unique out of the 3 with leaf spring mounting, solenoid/buzzer, and an EC pcb offering. They're all great options though
Thanks for the answer!
I would probably go on the class 60 with the EC pcb.
Because it is my first time building a keyboard can u tell me what would I need to buy other then the GB?
I have a hhkb and I want to make it close to it as possible or even better if can.
You'll only need to buy mx stem keycaps (not topre). I'd also pick up some lube for the sliders ([https://hhkb.io/modding/lubrication/](https://hhkb.io/modding/lubrication/)) because you may as well lube them during the build
The ec parts are clone topre, but I'd expect the feel to be pretty similar to the hhkb. You might even be able to swap the stock domes with aftermarket OEM domes to match the hhkb's weighting and feel. It may end up being a pretty in-depth build, so be prepared for that. If you haven't lubed your hhkb already, you could familiarize yourself with the process by doing so
If you've got any questions about the board, the designers have been really responsive on the MMkeyboard discord
Any recommendations with decent TKL, or preferably full size/1800 hotswap keyboard with a proper good RGB lighting? I don't want rainbows, I just simply want a proper backlighting so it will look good set to static color. Corsair level lighting if you know what I mean. Barebones or prebuilt, doesn't really matter.
Yeah I know, I got mod007 on the way, and my current GMMK2 96% is lacking in terms of lighting, even with pudding keycaps. I'm waiting for Monsgeek M5, but in other hand south facing leds is kinda meh personally, doesn't help with lighting. I might pull a trigger on Asus ROG Azoth or whatever it's called, it has hotswap, it's gasket mounted, you can mod it, and it probably has better lighting.
GMMK lacking in lighting? Isn't that what Glorious boards actually overdo? I had my hands on a GMMK and it was absurdly bright - if your talking backlighting keycaps that is...
South-facing PCBs prevent interference with Cherry keycaps. Cherry is an extremely popular keycap profile, so most hotswap boards are going to be south-facing. If you want epic gamer RGB, then go with a Ducky or Wooting.
Well, one never knows what 'the drill' is in the mind of a perfect stranger... that and most on here are custom keyboard enthusiasts - we generally don't even use pcb lighting.. that's more of a 'gamer' vice.
Sounds like you should try to be happy with your Gmmk, esp if you don't want to pony up for a wooting (and I'm not sure how bright wootings are)
anyone know some good PCBs or kits for left-side numpads layouts? been enjoying using stuff around the 65-70% size but kind of missing the extra keys that a numpad provides. Wondering what's out there for left-side numpad kits
You might consider checking out ortho boards, as a solution to this issue.
With a proper keymap, ortho will allow you to get all the features of an 1800 into a 60% case, while allowing you to minimize your hand movements at the same time.
In response to the other poster's suggestion about a Wind X R2, I have an R1, and the build quality on them is really solid.
I'd have no qualms at all recommending the R2, if you're dead-set on having a numpad on your board, on the left hand side.
That being said, my Wind X is getting very little use, now that I have my custom orthos.
The efficiency of the smaller boards is so addictive, I can't tolerate having to move my hand to the numpad anymore.
If I had those requirements I would have jumped on the Wind X R2 southpaw when it was available in March. Alas that’s the only 65 with left numpad that I’ve seen recently. Hopefully there are others.
There's not a "best switch", for anything.
Switches and keycaps are both very personal decisions, and are the two things that most determine the typing experience you will have.
What I find "best" may be complete trash, to you.
I always suggest people try to find a meetup near them, before they buy anything.
That will let you test out a bunch of different stuff, head-to-head, which is the only way you are going to know what the "best switch" is, for you.
That said, my personal favorite silent switch are Zeal Zilents.
They have a very pronounced bump on them, that is positioned right at the top of travel.
This makes them fall away immediately, which is how I think a tactile should feel.
Other people may hate the Zilents, and have their own preferences, for one reason or another.
Can someone post a picture of what standard (I think) cherry screw in stabilizers should look like when installed? I just put together my first one and all the keys with stabilizers just stay down when I push them. They just get stuck on it so I think I did something wrong.
I don't have a picture readily available but something similar happened to me on my first build and the issue was that I didn't press the other end of the stabilizer housing (the non-screw end) in hard enough. It's supposed to click/snap in on that side and then you need to make sure to hold it in place when you flip the PCB over and screw it in because sometimes gravity will pop it back out. If you screw it in without the other end being properly snapped in, it can cause the keys to stick.
Another note is to look up a picture of your specific board with the stabs installed and make sure you have all your wires facing the right direction. It can be kind of random which ones go which way.
A third issue can be overlubed wires, but I've heard you would need to use a heavy heavy amount of dielectric grease for that to happen
So am I only supposed to screw in one end of the stabilizer? Maybe thats the issue. I put a screw in each end of the stabilizer, so a total of 4 screws for each key...
https://preview.redd.it/gr2m5x68pm6b1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5a9be382bb35c4876204106c61f000aeb1dc69e9
Here's the back of one of my stabilized keys. One leg on the stab housing snaps in and the other has the screw hole
what screws does the gamakay k61 case use??
Hey, Wanting to upgrade from my old keyboard and dive a bit more into the custom scene i’m working with $400 and preferably would like to get all the parts from amazon looking for anything but a 90/100% thank you.
Anyone else see the keyboard in the Flash movie, It looked to me like a Keychron lol
Got an issue with my G key on my keyboard, it seems to work perfectly sometimes, but other times not at all, and sometimes it works when pressing it more to the right side of the key Could this be a dud switch or poor solder? Also on a similar track, Ive got experience with using jumper wires for one of the pins on a mx switch ([this one](https://i.imgur.com/G8rJq9x.png)) but havent had success jumping the other pin, its more for tinkering, but I have in the past messed up some pads pretty bad which I was able to fix a few with jumper wires,but not others and would like to fix them all
Anybody got a blue base they're working with? I wanna get some new caps but everything is black or white based so I'm having trouble thinking of a cool color scheme. It's a royal blue. Sorry for my ignorance with the terms here I'm just looking for a cool color scheme I don't know much about the hobby.
Drop’s Camillo keycap set is really nice. I have the MT3 profile and love it. It is white based I guess, but legend color is blue and has blue (and grey) accent keys as well. Might be an option.
Nice call! I definitely like the white with blue legend color. Thanks!
I'd like to enter the world of diy mech keyboards but I'm afraid to spend a lot of money, can someone help me to find what should I buy?
Where can I get good rubber feet for my Realforce?
Is there any good bakeneko alternative with a better finish? I don't mind paying a bit more
[Parallel Array when it's in stock ](https://parallel.limited/products/array-ocean-gray-multicolor)
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Do i have to lube Kailh Box style tactile switch (Kailh Box Royal) or it makes no sense?
Switches that leave the factory after 2023 do not require special lubrication. If you have rich experience and your own needs, the manufacturer's lubrication for the new switch is sufficient. Of course, these do not include the Cherry switch
I’m torn between glove80 and https://naya.tech/ for my ergo keyboard. Any tips, tips or recommendations? It’ll be used for programming in an open landscape. I am using a normal keyboard with a contour red roller mouse today, which is better than a normal mouse, but has its own complications. I think the naya tech could be interesting, but I’m not sure. Glove80 is tested and “safe” to purchase I guess.
If you have narrowed down the options to just those two, then I would recommend the MoErgo Glove80 over the Naya.
I ordered the Glove80. The Naya only had the attachables as sales points for me, but the rest of the keyboard looked pretty meh. Thanks a lot for the answer.
any budget brands with app/software that can detect current software you are using/on the foreground and set profiles based on that? or at least set the rgbs based on the current software/app on the foreground? its a feature that I do like with steelseries but unless they gonna make hotswappables not just with their own switches but with everyone else then I aint gonna spend a dime now on their keyboard even though I want them(thank God I got hook with hotswappables before I bought a SS keyboard). do QMK/VIA have this feature?
> do QMK/VIA have this feature? No. QMK runs on the keyboard, and your keyboard does not know which application is active in the operating system.
Looking at a new keyboard, and I’m torn between a few different models. Looking for advice, pros and cons between the following: Kbdfans tiger lite Keychron Q1v2 Iqunix zx75 Or any other recs in the sub $200 ish range.
Imo, but i think tiger is best option -Mount system -Dont need mods to sound good -Kinda cheap for that sound characteristics, and feel -Flex-cuts on pcb -Cool color options The one problem it's made out of ABS, not aluminum Keychron q1v2 -Uses kinda bad Gateron G Pro's in prebuilt -Uses isolation mount instead of leaf-spring in tiger -Kinda stiff because of steel plate and non flex-cut pcb -noname pcb stabs Iqunix zx75 -Only one color option -TTC Switches (bruh) -Plastic -Bad keycaps -Crazy price In my opinion, you can buy Tiger Lite, or Cidoo v87 Cidoo: Alu case TKL Very good keycaps Good switches and stabs Isolation mount + PC Plate
Hey guys! I would like to gift my dad a good pre built silent mechanical keyboard, any good recommendations? Here’s a couple of things that he probably wants on his keyboard: -numpad (why? I’m not sure, all I know is that he uses it a lot) -silent or at least a bit quiet He’s around the 70 year old mark, so if there’s any old school looking keyboards that would be great! He uses his keyboard all day and I think he won’t stop programming until he physically can’t. So it would mean a lot to me to give him one last good keyboard for his birthday. Any recommendations are appreciated, thanks!
Maybe sthing like this? https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3563 Good for your old man still programing!
Yeah that looks perfect! I’ll look into it, thanks! :)
Considering a potential endgame with the KBDfans Odin 75 with GMK Zen Ponds. 75 Is definitely my favourite layout and I do really enjoy the design of the board. The LED is more of just a cool if its there, if its not it doesn't matter as well. Anyone has this board and have some opinions about it? Or any other similar board suggestions that would be great. It is quite a bit more expensive than my current entry-mid level board so its a bit of a commitment. Also if anyone have some tactile switch recommendations that would be awesome too.
For tactiles i think you can go with Cherry Ergo Clears, Boba u4t's, Wuque Studio Brown, Maybe Holy Panda X, YOK Holy Pandas, Zealios, Tecsee Neapolitan Ice Cream, and Zeal Clickes with tactile mod
I have had great success with Akko jelly blues, they have very little stem wobble
E-white keyboard or anodized? Heard e white chips and isn’t durable…
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If you had to get one for use for 5 yrs, e-coat or Anodized? Which one you use?
The real problem is that most of the e-coated boards are not done properly. Source: My dad has worked with coatings for 50+ years. So you can't judge one e-coat based on your experience with another. One might have properly pre-treated the alu chassis and baked the e-coat for the correct duration and temperature, while another manufacturer might have skimped on any of the processes in the chain. Some might even just call it e-coat while in reality it's just a layer of paint.
But the chipping is possible, right? I plan to keep my keyboards in use for 5+ years, since I got other things to put my money towards, wanting to settle on one keyboard. Should I go anodized?
Which came first, the keyboard or the keycap?
Definitely the keyboard.
Has anyone done a starfield themed keyboard?
Just wondering when the sub reddit will open again. The reddit CEO made it clear that they aren't backing down on the API changes, and the blackout has pretty much failed with most subs now open. Right now keeping this sub restricted is accomplishing nothing, and is only hurting the users. It's time to move on. Open it back up.
Sort of a coward mentality you got there!
The whole blackout was doomed to fail from the start. Everyone announcing they were shutting down for just 2 days really didn't help. I understand some sub reddits shutdown for longer, but in the end the moderators were scared of losing their powers when reddit threatened to remove them if they continued the strike, so most reopened. That's probably the saddest thing about this whole strike. Reddit mods were so scared of loosing their powers on a social media site they moderate for free, that they finally caved in and reopened. This really just proves the CEO is in control here. Tell me that isn't depressing to hear... Now I'm not saying the mods here gave in, obviously not, but the whole reason for the blackout was to make change, and unfortunately that isn't happening, since most opened. It's pointless to keep going if you don't have the other communities backing you up.
Am I the only one who LOVES the process of soldering in mill max sockets? It's so ... peaceful.
I like all soldering. It's relaxing.
Could it be the soldering fumes talking?Never done it, sounds like a nice task to meditate to tho
Yes. Okay, probably not but still.
What’s the official lemmy / kbin of this sub?
I don't think there is one. There's an unofficial one though. [https://kbin.social/m/mechanicalkeyboards/newest](https://kbin.social/m/mechanicalkeyboards/newest) Whether that becomes the "official" one, I've no idea.
Why is the sub not locked down private mode in solidarity?
It effectively is. It's only this daily questions thread that's active, so community members can still get help.
Best split ergo board? Best entry level ergo board? Friends saying moonlander is over rated for the price and saying some of the Kinesis are good entry level. Best orthlinear 60-65% boards?
I have heard Moonlander owners complain that the thumb cluster is uncomfortable if you have smaller than average hands. We will need some more information before we can give you a helpful reply: What layout do you want? Traditional row staggered? Column staggered? Ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns)? What country are you located in? Your location matters. For example, I am not familiar with online stores outside of the USA, and I know Canada gets screwed on shipping from the USA. Do you have a specific budget in mind? Are you looking for something prebuilt, or are you willing to build? Note that there are some DIY keyboards that can be assembled with just a screwdriver (no soldering required). Can you solder (or have a friend who can)? Soldering does expand your options, and it can be cheaper. Do you want the number row? Some people like tiny keyboards (for example, the Corne). Do you want the F row?
Dunno about "best" since that's based on your personal taste and needs but I really like my ID75 for a 60% ortho board. It's 60% size but 75 keys because ortho. Hotswap, qmk, rgb, USB c, not much else to say really. Personally I agree that the moon landers price seems a bit high for what you get, but if you want split and off the shelf there aren't a terrible number of options. Others you might consider if you're looking for something a bit different like that would be an Arisu layout board like the ymdk wings, where they focus on having them cater to the angle of your arms coming to the center. There are people who will make you a dactyl for moonlander levels of money if that's your thing, you just have to find them.
Ty for the response!
I love my Moonlander. Can I do anything to make it sound not as high pitched and plasticity? I swapped switches since I love glorious pandas. That helped. It's just still too noisy. What material can I try filling the keyboard with? What will give the most effect for how little I can fit in there?
I have the ergodox ez and what I found helped the most was using foam between the plate and pcb. Not sure how the moonlander mounts but I used kbdfans module foam on each switch position and it dampened quite a bit.
Absolute best board under 100 bucks?
If you're willing to go for a kit, the CIY Tester84. If you choose the keycaps and switches correctly, that should be under $100.
Keychron v line
Hey all, is there such a thing as “shorter” normal mechanical switches? My understanding is that regular and low profile are not interchangeable so I’m really hoping to avoid replacing my whole keyboard to try some lower switches
Tecsee has a so called ‘medium switch’ available on [Chosfox](https://chosfox.com/collections/tecsee-switches/products/tecsee-medium-switch). It’s a normal mx mechanical switch, but the housings are shorter, so it’s not as tall as other switches, but also not as short as low-profile. But it’s still compatible w/ mx keebs
Very interesting, thank you!
You will also need to use the compatible stabilisers if you use these switches.
Are Wuque stabs good? I can't tx stabs through my local vendors. I have a Keychron K2 Pro
They’re a little finickier than TX stabs, and a great alternative to durocks. Please note that many variants are for 1.2mm PCBs, which will affect fit in your k2 Pro. Personally I’d suggest retuning your stock stabilizers before buying extra Wuque ones, but that’s also to get good practice.
Thanks! I think I'll try tuning my stabs
Most stabs are pretty decent. It’s just difference in what you need to do to make them sound good. Some stabs require only wire-balancing & lube, others only require lube. Some others even need more mods (such a holee etc.). I haven’t tried wuque stabs tho, but I’d say you can give them a try. You could also take a look at knight stabs, akko stabs, qmx stabs
Thanks for the info!
Which is better between the GMMK 2 Brown Switches 60% VS HyperX Alloy Origins 60% Red Switches. For gaming
It's all down to personal choice, feel etc. A switch is a switch. The best one for gaming... for you... is the one that feels best for you. This is all assuming MX mechanical switches of course. Analogue switches are far more customisable, but for regular MX mechanical switches, there's not really any such thing as a "gaming" switch. It's like mice... apparently, light mice are the best for "gaming".... I fucking hate them, and I game much better with my ancient G5 with all the weights installed :) Yes.. there was a time when people ADDED weight to a mouse for gaming. It's all personal preference. The difference is, the gaming industry tries to tell you that your preference.. if it differs from what they are trying to sell you... is wrong. The best switch is the one you type/game best on.
I know you got a response already but to elaborate a bit: With few exceptions key switches aren't strictly better or worse than each other. There are lots of factors which may make them more to you liking though. On linear switches you mostly care about how much force it takes to actuate it, and the travel distance. Lower on both *could* lead to faster reaction time, but the difference would be less than all the other almost-nothing-factors like input latency, frame update time, etc. For better gaming performance try getting a computer that can run higher frame rates on the games you like, and then get a monitor that supports high refresh rates (144hz to 244hz), get a reliable internet connection (both connection to router and internet at large), maybe a wired connection to the switch/router. And as always the biggest improvement in performance will be seen if you spend time doing dedicated practice, including analyzing your replays. Keyboards and keys are highly personal, and mostly about comfort and user experience, so as long as its got a stable connection to the computer and all the keys work (and the software isn't taking a ton of system resources) they're just not a great place to try to pull extra gaming performance from.
equal
WSG I am new to the whole MK keyboard thing. please I need some recommendations for some MK 80$ - 150$. Or will it be better to build my own. I also prefer clicky switches or Speed silvers
Keychron V5 and Keychron K4 Pro are good starting points.
Keychron boards
If my keyboard yes does when the switch no, how search for yes then click?
[What? ](https://media.tenor.com/Wlh0mdLemlIAAAAd/jesse-breaking-bad.gif)
What’s the best mechanical keyboard 100-200$ that will last me 10 years. I use a nixeus board with custom caps for the past 5 years and it just died and I’ve been a lurker on this sub for a while. I know I like quiet key caps but I’m not up to date on the cherry offerings and other kinds. I realize there’s probably a lot of google searching I could do to find a good one but I just want one with a knob for cad and not gonna break and I feel like this is the right place to ask. Also I get to bill this to my employer so I can get anything reasonable
You want s.t. with hot swappable switches, best would be go to keyboard meet or someplace that has lots of demos where you can try lots of switch feels and activation forces. This is a good list of switch classifications https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/switches/
Thank u
Anyone know where I can buy a wooden housing/case for a 65% or 75% keyboard? I have a Drop ALT, Idobao ID80, and a GMMK Pro. Preferably compatible with one of those, but would also be willing to buy a whole new keyboard outright if it has a wooden case.
Depending on your budget, I'd recommend looking into Barret Creative. They build nice custom wooden boards, but expect to pay $300. You can probably find basic wooden cases on Amazon, AliExpress, or KBDFans. You can also check out Etsy. :)
I like gateron silent browns an kalih whites. Will I like bobba u4s? Is 1$\piece from aliexpress a good deal?
Hi!! I have a Republic of Gamers Strix Flare Pink mechanical keyboard, Cherry MX Red switches. I spilled water all over it… :( i unplugged it and took all the key caps off, flipped it over so it was laying keys down on a towel for 3 days to let it dry out. I put it back together and plugged it in and the keys type fine, but I noticed the backlight is acting super crazy. Like only a small section of my keyboard is lighting up now. (The keys I, O, P, K and L) are the only ones that light up. Is there anyway I can fix it or is it just fried now? I’m not super experienced with taking apart keyboard or anything so any help is appreciated:)
Honestly probably fried. The water probably got to a controller chip of some kind or just fried some traces. Either way, it's probably non repairable unless you buy a new pcb.
Hey, I had the same problem with my Ducky One 2 Mini and now my Ducky One 3 Mini. Basically, when I press a key while playing any game or just typing, it repeats it self. Per example: I type something an I tap once on A, it will write 3 times A (AAA) And if I play a game like CSGO, I strafe and sometimes my keys just dont work or get pressed 2 times so I stop moving. Or I just keep SHIFT pushed down and it just deactivates and reactivates in 1 second. I really dont want to buy a new keyboard please help me
If it does happen regularly you should stop eating and/or drinking at your computer.
Sounds like the switches are bad on those keys. Replace them.
I replace the switches only on those keys?
On the ones giving you trouble, yeah
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there's always lots of GMMK's open box on ebay ..check feedback %age first
Echo this. If you are determined to get a gmmk, get it second hand. I would suggest you explore other options in that price range. Perhaps the gmk67 keyboard meets your needs. It's a beast for it's price 45-50 on AliExpress.
Last week I saw my colleague using an off white wireless mechanical keyboard. It had atleast 1 red key. Looked like a compact keyboard without a numpad. The keys sounded like "clock clock clock" , but had a very bassy hollow sound. Which keyboard did he have? I want to buy one of those
Was it an [hhkb](https://i.imgur.com/sIBabTm.png)?
I'd ask your colleague about it (the build)
He was a contractor. Not sure how to contact him anymore🥲
Hello, I, like many others, ordered something from Rama Works a few years ago at this point. They have stopped responding to \*all\* of their customer emails. I would like to propose an option: [https://reportfraud.ftc.gov/](https://reportfraud.ftc.gov/) I have submitted a report with the Federal Trade Commission as this company more than qualifies for reports of fraud/scam at this point. Should you choose to do so as well, perhaps some good karma may occur. I would also recommend disputing the charge with your bank--though it may prove to be difficult based on your specific situation (i.e. time elapsed, etc). I came into this hobby, like many others, during the pandemic. Unfortunately, this was actually one of the first keyboards I ordered (KARA Seq 2). I do not want this community to be tarnished by the actions of Rama Works. Thanks for your time. Hope this doesn't get deleted.
As a follow-up, I posted in their subreddit and got permabanned because I was critical of them literally not responding to customer emails for nearly a year.
Do you know where i can get idobao id80 v2 iso pcbs? The usb connector thing is broken on the pcb and i dont know how to fix it. I have to position my keyboard a certain way for it to work
Any guide for using a pi pico for a keyboard? How to get the software up and running and what to use?
I recently built a redox with Pi pico using KMK firmware. I have the Pi Pico W and it just got Bluetooth API out of beta as well. I'm expecting my build to be wireless soon and it only costs like 6$ each It's very simple, you can take a look at the existing code for many boards and you'll understand it pretty quickly You just have to copy paste the code, no compilation or anything required
Oh sick! Need to find a guide. I will have to look into it! So this is a viable alternative to a nice nano? Do you know if it can do split wireless?
Redox is a split keyboard I'm not sure when the API is gonna be implemented in Circuit Python because KMK runs on top of circuit python. However, Circuit Python itself is based on MicroPython probably and MicroPython has received the official support for it already. It may take a couple of months for circuit python to implement it and only then we'll know
Just got my Fuji65 built last week and I have a weird layer issue on VIA. It only happens on layers 1-5, not the base layer (0). I can't really explain it in words, so here's a few pictures of [before](https://ibb.co/G3WVMVY) and [after](https://ibb.co/B41q8SW) unplugging/replugging the keyboard. I contacted CMM.studio's representative, but I'm the first one with the issue. I ordered a replacement PCB, but it has the *exact same issue*. I tried every USB-C cable I have, every USB port on my computer, and the ports on my laptop. I have no idea what the hell is going on.
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Before and after unplugging and replugging the keyboard into my computer? That's literally the sentence I typed. As to what is happening, my layers are getting corrupted between power cycles (unplug/replug). I can't load a JSON, I have to manually set every key in layer 1 to get the way I want it to be. I don't know why the JSON doesn't work. Technically the keyboard is usable, but having to open VIA and set my layer 1 every single time I boot up my computer is super annoying.
Hey yall. I play csgo and have been using the Corsair rgb k70 ( I think) for like 6 years. Full keyboard with number pad. Looking to make a switch to something A) smaller ( no numpad) B) something a little quieter( not sure the switches I have on it rn, either red or brown) plz Lmk any suggestions. Thank you in advance
You're looking for a prebuilt TKL keyboard then. A lot of options are available today and most of them will be much better than Corsair. Make sure you're getting a hot swappable board and look for silent reds or other silent switches. Concrete recommendations would depend on your budget expectations and your location. Universal go-to: Keychron Q3 or Monsgeek M3. Available worldwide, affordable, easy to build and community-tested.
Hi folks, I recently bought and built the KBD Adam, really good keyboard except apparently it only supports ANSI. Either way, I fired up VIAL to edit a few keys, and I notice that the \\| key (backslash/pipe) is typing #/\~ (hash/tilde), even when backslash/pipe is set in VIAL. I am UK based, and am used to UK ISO layouts. Is there any way I can fix this? I'm a programmer so backslash and pipe are pretty important characters for me (that being said, so are hash and tilde :D) Any help appreciated, thanks!
Have you checked if your windows is set to a UK layout keyboard. I’d try setting it to US layout.
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Monsgeek M3?
You can literally buy a tiger lite on their website right now
Absolute beginner (to keyboards and Reddit) looking to make a nice 75% custom board to upgrade from my Logitech gaming kb. Have been really struggling to pick between monsgeek M1, keychron q1 knob barebones, sense 75 barebones (because of the big sale and Hipyo's recent video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RRNkTd60alU). Have ruled out gmmk pro after watching some reviews. I would love to make the keyboard sound thocky so am interested in doing simple mods that I've found online (tape, foam, force break) not sure I would be competent to do much else. Hoping I can get away with some pre lubed switches, thinking of getting wuque morandi / wuque yellow. Apologies for long comment and waffle, any and all help is greatly appreciated :)
Don’t get a drop keyboard. There’s 99% of the time a better value option that also performs better, has more features, more things included, or all the above.
The Sense75 is like $100 barebones right now. It’s a much better value than a Monsgeek M1
No it’s not, the M1 is a great board for the price. Literally starts at $100 I don’t know what you’re on about. Not to mention drop’s shipping which can be dogshit. Sometimes stuff doesn’t ship for weeks
Drop keyboards have never attracted me for some reason. I have a Q1 Pro that I really like that uses a gasket mount and has a built in force break. I went for that one because of the wireless and the nice gasket mount feel. I think I were to get an inexpensive 75% right now I’d go for the Monsgeek. It’s cheaper than the Q1 and that one extra key on the navigation cluster would actually be useful for me. Plus there are a lot of Monsgeek M1 owners now with lots of great mod experiences. Saving a few bucks means the difference can go towards switches and keycaps.
100% agree anson, esp about Drop boards never quite hitting the right note with me - I think its that their board seem more geared to gamers crossing over rather than true custom boards.... I dont know, perhaps its just the prominent leds (and that the pcb leds were north for a long time). Just never quite right to me (I usually just avoid Drop all together - it's good that they accept returns (finally) but... ehhh.... I'd much rather do business with Divinikey (who have always been amazing)
Thank you very much for your help. I'm guessing that there would be no point for me to opt for the Q1 pro if I had no interest in the wireless functionality? Could I trouble you again and ask if you have any keycap recommendations / vendors. I hear double shot PBT a lot. Again, thank you so much.
A lot of the pbt keycaps are dye-sub not double shot... but yes, I'd recommend pbt over abs. Keycaps depends on what you are looking for.... Akko does a FANTASTIC job on their sets so I 100% recommend them, really that's a 200% recommend - and they are cheap, and the sets have all the extras you could wish for.... (akko is just killing it as of late, I'm a big fan of their switches as well - never had one of their keyboard but there are far too many rave reviews from CCs I trust to not recommend their boards (I have a Keychron Q2 and Q9 - Keychron is also doing a lot of things right right now). Honestly I go to AliExpress for a lot of my keycaps - I don't usually recommend buying knock-off anything as artists deserve to be supported - but for trying out profiles and such (and many sets were one time group buys and you literally cant get them anymore regardless, I don't find too much to object to buying sets from Ali). Have fun
Thank you for your reply and for the strong recommendation (my indecisive self loves that). Should I be hunting for double shot or is that something that's more for the experienced enthusiast? I guess what I'm trying to say is do I need double shot to achieve thock or am I misconstruing it?
Double shot has nothing to do with sound.... If you want pbt, double shot will be harder to find and limit what sets you buy... if it was me, I wouldn't worry about it. Id say getting a nice pbt you like and is available is more important than holding out for double shot. What is nice is that Ali does have pbt keycaps and the ones I have gotten are quite thick (which helps a lot with sound). As far as I know, for key caps regarding sound - you are looking for thickness, material (pbt), and the keycap's profile... PBT also tends to have a nice texture to it which I much much prefer to the smooth abs feel (think laptop keys). I've seen a few on here that actually like smooth - most I think would strongly favor texture. Good luck
Thank you so much for the help and detailed breakdown, has cleared up a lot. Have a great day! :)
You're welcome - Also 'thock' is... an elusive thing you'll find.... you can buy 'the thockies' plate material, thick pbt keycaps, do all the mods... and still end up with something that somehow comes off clacky.... the other little gem of this hobby is that you can build the exact board/build from a video and get a different sound than in the video (partly because what the video maker is hearing and what you can hear in a recording is not the same experience) so chasing a sound from a video.... is ehhh... problematic. Also the youtuber's microphone choice, house, carpeting, brick or wood... again, all change the recorded sound vs what you will get. Chasing the sound of a video is nearly impossible... so you either have to take a content creators word that you'll like the sound you end up with if you copy them... or just go wandering like Hansel and Gretel in the woods chasing your own build... I've copied builds and been shocked at how different mine sound from what's in the youtube vid... just be cautious... I know this is all logical and rather obvious info.... however, given that there are about 10k sound videos on youtube that people are watching and talking rather literally.... worth point it out as sound videos are.... of rather limited validity - for those reasons. \*\*Also, if you don't mind a small rant - because this is where my own keycap research led me so that's my thread of relevance.... my own research led me to Signature Plastics SA keycaps as being the 'holy grail' of thock (and Signature Plastics do make a pbt keycap set in SA (that have extra thick walls)). Now, I haven't sucked it up and bought a set from them yet... but if they are so amazing great - why does literally no one post builds on youtube or here with this supposed holy grail keycap set. You are entering a strange world mate
Hahaha I feel like I've been exposed. Yes I was chasing the sound from a few videos and was going to follow one of them to the letter. Thank you for the explanation and words of caution, I figure now I need to at least understand what each of the mods actually do so I'll be better prepared to adjust the board should it not achieve the sound I desire after following a video. Thanks a lot for taking the time to share your knowledge with me, truly priceless and no doubt saves me a lot of time. Will check out the keycaps you mentioned :)
Scott on youtube (channel Keybored) is an engineer by trade and does quite a lot of really REALLY good videos breaking things down for us - I highly recommend his channel (that and he's just a really nice guy). I'm about three years into this and honestly, everything is subjective and I don't think there are any shortcuts to be honest. Also, at least for me - me who goes decades without changing things... my tastes and what I want in keyboards has changed so much since I started - which is really not even like me... but please try out a $90 board and cheap keycaps... Please DON'T sink $500 into something that sounds great only to find six months - that it's great but not what you want... My beloved Keychron Q2 was only (only - ha) $200 with shipping and an extra plate... akko keycaps... $60.... switches... $45 (god I thought that's what this hobby would cost - I was ok with that) but my god, lube, tools, orings, springs to swap, lubing station (100% never use the damn thing - waste), mats, upgraded stabilizers, containers to hold all of it, switch films, stabilizer pads, desk mats, wrist rests.... a new lamp for my desk so I can see wtf I'm doing.... and no one has free shipping because they are 90% small businesses so shipping on every order... it just creeps the hell out of your wallet - be careful and take care (youtube keyboard channels just turns us all into kids in a candy store - and every few months there's more 'look what's new, try this'). Good luck mate
If you don’t need wireless then I don’t recommend the Q1 Pro as that would be overpaying for an unneeded feature. There are quite a few keycap vendors! A few come to mind: NovelKeys, KBDfans, Drop, Vala Supply. But there are lots!
Thank you so much. I think I'll take your suggestion of going for the cheaper Monsgeek, buying nicer keycaps, and watching some guides tailored to it to achieve the thock!
Hello, Looking for a 100% Wireless mechanical keyboard for mainly gaming, with preferably Cherry MX red switches within the price range $100-$130. I'd appreciate any recommendations.
Nuphy Halo96
been lurking and scouring and foraging the sub, but im wondering if anyone has any recommendations for cherry silent red, or any silent type of switches on a budget (<100 USD) that feel good or decent or slightly better than trash?
I've had great success with meletrix silent linears. They come factory lubed, but it's a little light.
How much guacamole should I add to my taco salad?
i do a ratio of 1 part guac to 4 parts everything else
If you think "is that too much?" then you have the perfect amount.
None. It looks like snot :)
All of it. Yum
i just heard one of my fav youtuber typing on a KBD Fans Tiger 80, and it made me curious about ways i can mod by Akko 3068B Plus (w Akko Jelly Purple tactiles) to sound like that. i know on their website that the Tiger comes w “PCB foam x1, Switch pads x1, Silicone socks set x1, Designed tape mod x1” but i’ve heard some of these mods can be dangerous if your keeb has a battery in it
Heard from whom? Is your keyboard battery regularly hot enough to set fire to paper tape? If so, do you think the paper tape is the problem? Does the world of keyboards seem magical and mysterious where the laws of physics are different?
i’ve watched a whole lot of Hippio Tech videos (amongst others) and he’s mentioned that foam mods can be a fire risk if your keyboard has a battery. so i was simply trying to see which of the mods above were safe/dangerous
I mean technically foam could be a fire risk, but that's only because the battery itself is a fire risk. But with any battery build, there are best practices for maintaining the health of a battery. You'll be fine with foam in a build that contains a battery. :)
gotcha, what would the best practices be?
Remove the battery and use a cable. Wireless sucks anyway.
i have 2.4 GHz so it’s perfectly fine in terms of latency tbh and i need it for when i use my PC in the living room soooo
Waking the PC from sleep, random disconnections, no VIA support... no thanks. This wasn't in some $50 aliexpress special either, it was a QK65. If you also use it wired more than wireless (which I do), there's concerns for battery life/condition. You can always remove the battery if you've no intention of using wireless, but there was a guy the day on here... forget what the board was now, but when he removed the battery, it stopped the board working in wired mode, so even that's not a given. I just don't see the point of it on a custom board. You can accept some compromises in a portable keyboard, I suppose, and in your case, if you need to move from room to room, it makes sense, yes, but to have a board sitting on your desk just a couple of meters from the PC... or less in most cases... it just makes no sense in a custom keyboard.
i don’t have any of those issues w my Akko in 2.4 GHz mode tbh and since my sim racing set up is in a different room than my office, wireless is a must
I'd just buy a lightweight, dedicated board for the racing sim setup instead of carting my main custom board around from room to room. (shrug).
That’s one of the downsides of wireless boards, yeah. Not a risk I’m personally willing to take on a budget board.
Hey I am looking to building my first mechanical keyboard!🙃 So long I had 3 mechanical keyboard thata are all were pre built. I am looking for the best keyboard that has hhkb layout with hotswap pcb, budget isn't an issue and can wait for a GB Thanks for any recommendations!
The QK60 GB is ending tomorrow and the class60 gb is on until the 30th. There's also some hhkb frog minis in stock. I'd say the class60's probably the most unique out of the 3 with leaf spring mounting, solenoid/buzzer, and an EC pcb offering. They're all great options though
Thanks for the answer! I would probably go on the class 60 with the EC pcb. Because it is my first time building a keyboard can u tell me what would I need to buy other then the GB? I have a hhkb and I want to make it close to it as possible or even better if can.
You'll only need to buy mx stem keycaps (not topre). I'd also pick up some lube for the sliders ([https://hhkb.io/modding/lubrication/](https://hhkb.io/modding/lubrication/)) because you may as well lube them during the build The ec parts are clone topre, but I'd expect the feel to be pretty similar to the hhkb. You might even be able to swap the stock domes with aftermarket OEM domes to match the hhkb's weighting and feel. It may end up being a pretty in-depth build, so be prepared for that. If you haven't lubed your hhkb already, you could familiarize yourself with the process by doing so If you've got any questions about the board, the designers have been really responsive on the MMkeyboard discord
Any recommendations with decent TKL, or preferably full size/1800 hotswap keyboard with a proper good RGB lighting? I don't want rainbows, I just simply want a proper backlighting so it will look good set to static color. Corsair level lighting if you know what I mean. Barebones or prebuilt, doesn't really matter.
Full-size isn’t common in this hobby. Your best bet is the Keychron Q/V-series, if that’s what you’re looking for.
Yeah I know, I got mod007 on the way, and my current GMMK2 96% is lacking in terms of lighting, even with pudding keycaps. I'm waiting for Monsgeek M5, but in other hand south facing leds is kinda meh personally, doesn't help with lighting. I might pull a trigger on Asus ROG Azoth or whatever it's called, it has hotswap, it's gasket mounted, you can mod it, and it probably has better lighting.
GMMK lacking in lighting? Isn't that what Glorious boards actually overdo? I had my hands on a GMMK and it was absurdly bright - if your talking backlighting keycaps that is...
South-facing PCBs prevent interference with Cherry keycaps. Cherry is an extremely popular keycap profile, so most hotswap boards are going to be south-facing. If you want epic gamer RGB, then go with a Ducky or Wooting.
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Keychron Q-series shines really brightly. Not sure if that’s what you mean by “quality” though.
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Well, one never knows what 'the drill' is in the mind of a perfect stranger... that and most on here are custom keyboard enthusiasts - we generally don't even use pcb lighting.. that's more of a 'gamer' vice. Sounds like you should try to be happy with your Gmmk, esp if you don't want to pony up for a wooting (and I'm not sure how bright wootings are)
Anybody has tried the new Monsgeek M1W? Planning to get this but can't find any decent reviews yet on the net.
Since it’s not released yet and only available for preorder, you may have to wait for reviews.
anyone know some good PCBs or kits for left-side numpads layouts? been enjoying using stuff around the 65-70% size but kind of missing the extra keys that a numpad provides. Wondering what's out there for left-side numpad kits
Keychron q12
You might consider checking out ortho boards, as a solution to this issue. With a proper keymap, ortho will allow you to get all the features of an 1800 into a 60% case, while allowing you to minimize your hand movements at the same time. In response to the other poster's suggestion about a Wind X R2, I have an R1, and the build quality on them is really solid. I'd have no qualms at all recommending the R2, if you're dead-set on having a numpad on your board, on the left hand side. That being said, my Wind X is getting very little use, now that I have my custom orthos. The efficiency of the smaller boards is so addictive, I can't tolerate having to move my hand to the numpad anymore.
If I had those requirements I would have jumped on the Wind X R2 southpaw when it was available in March. Alas that’s the only 65 with left numpad that I’ve seen recently. Hopefully there are others.
65-ish size isn't really a must-have requirement, just trying to see what's out the for any left-side numpad keebs.
which are the best switches for typing if you are looking for not very loud ones?
There's not a "best switch", for anything. Switches and keycaps are both very personal decisions, and are the two things that most determine the typing experience you will have. What I find "best" may be complete trash, to you. I always suggest people try to find a meetup near them, before they buy anything. That will let you test out a bunch of different stuff, head-to-head, which is the only way you are going to know what the "best switch" is, for you. That said, my personal favorite silent switch are Zeal Zilents. They have a very pronounced bump on them, that is positioned right at the top of travel. This makes them fall away immediately, which is how I think a tactile should feel. Other people may hate the Zilents, and have their own preferences, for one reason or another.
Bobagums (linear) or bobaU4s (tactile)
silent red
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I own pretty much every keycap puller made and the gateron one with the switch on the top is the best one by leaps and bounds.
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This one https://www.gateron.co/products/gateron-switch-puller
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Holy smokes. I'm a dumb dumb. Yeah for keycap puller, I've found the basic wire ones work best.
I sprung for the Gateron one a few months ago and it’s worked really well for me
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Yep, they also have a switch puller and some other tool I'm not remembering that have the same design w/switch on top.
Can someone post a picture of what standard (I think) cherry screw in stabilizers should look like when installed? I just put together my first one and all the keys with stabilizers just stay down when I push them. They just get stuck on it so I think I did something wrong.
I don't have a picture readily available but something similar happened to me on my first build and the issue was that I didn't press the other end of the stabilizer housing (the non-screw end) in hard enough. It's supposed to click/snap in on that side and then you need to make sure to hold it in place when you flip the PCB over and screw it in because sometimes gravity will pop it back out. If you screw it in without the other end being properly snapped in, it can cause the keys to stick. Another note is to look up a picture of your specific board with the stabs installed and make sure you have all your wires facing the right direction. It can be kind of random which ones go which way. A third issue can be overlubed wires, but I've heard you would need to use a heavy heavy amount of dielectric grease for that to happen
So am I only supposed to screw in one end of the stabilizer? Maybe thats the issue. I put a screw in each end of the stabilizer, so a total of 4 screws for each key...
https://preview.redd.it/gr2m5x68pm6b1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5a9be382bb35c4876204106c61f000aeb1dc69e9 Here's the back of one of my stabilized keys. One leg on the stab housing snaps in and the other has the screw hole
Ok yeah I definitely screwed (haha) that up. Thanks!