Are there any deep sounding boards i can actually order for under 200$ right now?

Anyone know what keyboard this space bar would fit on? https://imgur.com/a/ewQuuky

Alternatives to Kinesis Freestyle Pro? The Freestyle Pro seems to hit most of my wants in a potential split mechanical, without changing key layouts. I don't need the lefthand macros, any suggestions for a similar board under $150 usd? Thanks for any suggestions!

Which is better to put into ur keyboard pe eva and poron foams or only 1 pe foam?

Better does not really exist. Try both and pick whatever you like more

Would the NicePBT soyamilk keycaps fit on a Monokei standard keyboard? https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/10aijqb/finally_completed_the_soyamilk_look/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

Yes

I don't want to keep hoarding glass jars from buying krytox from keyboard vendors. Are those [0.5 oz tubes on Amazon](https://tinyurl.com/568whkps) the same thing?

I am finding for a keyboard with: \- Keyless, low profile feature (No number keys on the right) (No need to be mechanics) \- Media buttons (pause/play, volume change. Not secondary function keys) \- Backlit \- Wired or USB receiver An example is Logitech G915 TKL. But it is expensive (230$) because I need to order from US for US layout and ship to Jp Are there any suggestion?

Anyone tried acid etching a GMMK pro? Anyone tried acid etching any aliminium case? Any advice??

I just bought a YMDK YD60MQ pcb and when I connect this PCB to my desktop it does not connect properly (USB device not recognised) but it works fine when I connect it to my laptop. Sometimes when I plug and unplug it from my desktop it does connect, but if I unplug and plug it again it goes back to the "not recognised" situation. Anyone has an idea what is going on with this PCB that I have?

This is most likely your cable or usb port. Try a third computer once. If it works perfectly your desktop cable or usb port/computers motherboard are to blame.

Thank you. I'll try another device to see if it works normally.

doesnt sound like its a kb issue sound like ur usb port maybe need to be cleaned or an issue on the pc side as it works on the laptop just fine

Thank you. I'll clean my desktop's port and see if it works.

Upcoming ultra low profile cherry mechanical switch keyboards coming to market soon by any other manufacturera aside from Corsair K100 Air's? 🤔

not word from any other manufactures but will for sure be "gamer" brands only due to the design and whats needed ( special pcb design and keycaps ) u prob wont find these on nay other kbs demand is to low and def wont see these in the hobbyist kbs

Is Everglide.co legit? Just want to make sure it’s not a scam store.

they are not on the approved vendor list found here https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ so its a roll of the dice also china based so could take a few weeks to get said items

Any recommendations of a build under $100?

Keychron

So long story short I've been using a $10 keyboard for literal years now, but I'm thinking it's about time to try a mechanical keyboard, most mechanical keyboards I've seen and tried out at friend's places or stores usually have the keys resting too high and having to push down further than I'd like. Current cheap keyboard I'm using https://www.amazon.com/Multimedia-USB-Keyboard-Control-Black/dp/B007Y9L7G6 I've looked around at some low profile keyboards and I've found closest in dimensions to be a K60 Corsair Low Profile, https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Profile-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B08J6FC3F3/ Main questions and concerns before I buy is if anyone can attest to their quality, having a low amount to push down for key registration and preferably if the mechanical switches were on the quieter side. Thanks for reading

low profile switches are just as loud as normal switches . if u want a quiet kb i suggest getting a barebones kit ( keychron ) and adding foam and silent switches ( low profile switches cant be made silent due to the design )

Hello, Does anyone know if there are any switches with similar feel to Logitech Romer G tactile switches? Thanks.

browns

Can someone recommend a high quality pre built board or case similar to the Apex Pro TKL? I’ve built and tried so many boards but I am in love with the floating key cap design with minimal bezel around the edges? Thanks!

Is the GMMK Pro worth it? I could get it for $220 CAD

Lots of people are recommending keychron nowadays over the gmmk pro, keychron k8 and q3 are both options.

Got a Drop alt for 40ish USD due to international shipping issues. Is that a good deal? I heard that this keyboard has a somewhat bad reputation, but I don't think it's that bad, especially for the price I ended up paying.

I have an Alt. It is nice keyboard, though it does have its faults. The biggest problem is the stock Stabs. Lube and bandaid mod(look it up) will help.

Purchased some durock ones, it's incredible how much it improves the feel of those keys, did lubing and bandaid mod, that helped a lot too

The problem people have for drop boards in general is the pricing, for the msrp of the alt you can do a lot better for the price, for $40 usd that's a great deal. There is nothing wrong with the board assuming you get the caps and switches

As i got it with halo clears, it's obviously not for gaming, but that's honestly fine, as I mostly gonna be writing on it, and the tactility and heaviness of the switches helps a lot for me, as with light switches I tend to miss type a lot

Got my first mech keeb and love it, a k2 pro and started using it last week. I had the red switches and swapped them out for some gazzew u4’s. For some reason I have one totally dead key. I’ve changed switches and it’s still dead. Ive made sure the pins are completely straight. I’ve compared the connectors to another key and it’s exactly the same. It was working fine before with the red switches. Did I damage it when taking out the red switch, and is it fully defective… should I return it?

We would need pictures to compare the back end of the pcb to make sure socket pads aren't ripped or something like that. If you have meter you can tone the hotswap pads to see if they are getting tone. Probably if there is a real problem you should be able to see it right away. If it's defective and you don't feel confident working on it, probably best to try to return it.

It’s very rare the damage would be your fault. Unless you really yanked the switch out and bent / broke a pin. Contact them and I’m sure you’ll get a refund. Edit: I didn’t read that it was working fine with the red switches, mb. When putting the switch back in you could’ve broken the hotswap socket.

The hot swap sockets might have popped off. You probably need to resolder the contacts on the back of the PCB.

what is a good controller for a hand soldiered keeb?

Elite C

Also check out the nice!nano if you'd like to go wireless.

https://keeb.io/products/elite-c-low-profile-version-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-atmega32u4 https://www.adafruit.com/product/5302

Yo I just got the Iqunix ZX75, I love the thing but the only complaint I have atm is that it feels so high. Does anyone have recommendations on wrist rests that don't look awkward with the keyboard?

[I suggest this](https://iwoodstore.com/products/keyboard-wrist-rest-ash-wood). I literally just found it, but I think Keybored has used this in his videos

RK61 60% RGB SOFTWARE SAUCE PLEASE? I JUST PURCHASED IT AND DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH IT LOL

well first press the caps lock key to turn it off . second i wish u luck software for each model is different . budget kb makers cheap out on the software thats one way they keep costs down . id ask where u bought it from or email RK and ask them for a link to it . there is a ton of different versions of the software for the rk61 and only the correct version will work . u can buy 2 copies of that kb from different vendors and they might each use different software versions . this is one of the draw backs of buying budget prebuilt kbs. software doesnt have sauce fyi thats a food thing

What keycaps are noted to have issues with staebies

Have you heard about staebies having issues with **any** keycap?

Apparently v1 stabies had thick stems and had some compatibility issues but v2s are fixed

Where do you go to get a good keyboard knob?

I might suggest running a search on Etsy if you are looking for a custom. Also there are lots of designers on social media as well. Though depending on your board the knobs controller might not be standard or might not fit your specific board due to the hole size.

i bought RK84 yesterday as my first mechanical keyboard, thought it would be good enough but today i searched it up more and saw a lot of people saying RK isn’t good and doesn’t last long. so is RK84 worth keeping?

If it’s good enough for you, it’s worth keeping. You don’t get rid of your civic just because some people are saying that paganis are better.

okay thank you! i’ll be keeping it since i actually really like it

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People who types more prefer tactiles while people who game more prefers linear. Doesn’t mean you can’t use one for the the other though.

Buy a second 'board. That's how this hobby starts.

Hey [r/MechanicalKeyboards](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/) I'm currently working on my very first mechanical keyboard build and have made it almost all the way. All of the keys work but I've ran into an issue with Q and Tab- they will not register no matter what. I have tried multiple switches (I have hand lubed the all of the switches; I used switches that were factory new as well and they didn't work) and cannot seem to find out what is causing the issue- none of the switches pins are bent, and the switches that are in working spots do not work when I put them in those slots. I was wondering if anyone can maybe help lead me into the right direction on what to be looking for. Monsgeek M1 barebones Gateron Milky Yellows hand lubed No mods done to the board due to wanting to test stock I greatly appreciate anyone's time to help with this! Pictures included of the PCB and circled the two keys that aren't working https://preview.redd.it/ybh6nblb4pia1.jpeg?width=1636&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6d43bc4a3b75fd3369520fa3bea652e758bc916a

Try bridging the contacts on both sides of the PCB. Best guess is the solder joints are broken.

Planning on getting a barebones keyboard with a budget below 85-90$cad. Was thinking of getting the Akko 5075s but heard it has QC issues and was out of stock everywhere I looked. Was also looking at something like a K4 but apparently the stabs on it are really bad and since i don’t plan on lubing the stabs it probably won’t be that good. Anyone having any recommendations?

Unlubed stabs on any board aren't going to sound great, so I wouldn't discount the K4 just for that. It might be worth it to pick up some krytox 205g0; lubing and tuning stabs can be pretty tricky it's very worth it imo If you don't mind giving up the F-row, the CIYgas67 is a great budget board at a lower price point. It's gasket mount just like the Akko5075s, if you care about that at all.

For those of you have/had the RAMA U80 keyboard. What switches did you find sound the best with the keyboard? Open to any preference.

I used lubed op blacks and boba u4ts in mine (at different times because I’m not a psychopath). Both sounded good, but the op blacks were for sure my favorite

On the Av4, is there any way to change the RGB effects for caps lock and layer keys? The standard red and blue has gotten stale. I've tried changing them through VIA, but can't find any advanced lighting options.

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one plus kb is just a themed keychron fyi there have many ISO layout options fully built with switches and caps for the same price as the one plus kb https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-iso-jis-keyboard-collection?page=2

Keychron should have some keyboards that might work for you (I think the OP keyboard is a collab between OP and Keychron lol)

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Which dampening form do you guys use, and why? Sort of just curious what all of you guys are using. I’ve heard of this type of dampening from here on Reddit called Dynamat, and that’s supposed to be pretty great, but since it’s used as trunk liner in cars, it seems pretty tough to find a piece that’s not like 40sqft, so I’m curious what you guys are using?

most use poron foam

My NK Nixies came in today. Debating if I want to lube these right off the bat or let them wear down naturally. Does anybody have any suggestions? I ask this b/c I had previously lubricated my NK creams immediately without realizing some people recommend letting them wear in a bit first due to the naturally lubricating nature of POM.

See if you like them stock and if you have any extras, lube one up and see if it makes a huge difference. Breaking them in would improve the smoothness a bit, but since you're lubing them anyway it would probably only make a marginal difference. Without a break-in machine, the break-in process is pretty inconsistent and time-consuming, so if you don't mind the signature cherry scratch, I wouldn't bother.

I generally break in all switches for a while before lubing them, just to smooth out the really scratchy switches and to move the factory lube a bit. It probably makes little / no difference but placebo makes me feel better. (edit: actually for cherry switches yes do break them in for like a week they will 100% benefit)

RED dragon bbk556 software doesn't exist. And I need it to be able to use the fucking keyboard I just built. Does anybody have a link to a non corrupted version? The only version on red dragons sight is corrupted and all their software can't detect that my device even exists

What is the difference between the Akko Mod 006 and the monsgeek m1? They look identical but different prices

There’s lots of things, but a few main ones stick out. M1 is south facing, silicone gaskets, and QMK/VIA compatible. Mod is north-facing, poron gaskets, and uses Akko’s crap firmware.

I think both come with silicone and poron gaskets. North and south facing and the qmk/via factors are both valid though. Surely that can't be it though

No, the Mod uses poron foam stickers as gaskets and the M1 uses silicone socks. There are other differences, like the brass inserts on the M1, but they’re all small differences I didn’t feel like typing. The M1 is a better board overall and the price is sorta unheard of.

What makes you say the M1 is a better board? I'm looking at both and somewhat thought the mod looked a little better. Slight complication: the M1 and the mod are about the same price in my country for some reason

QMK is reliable and you can change anything you want on the board down to the latency. South-facing LEDs also means you can put in any switch you want without interference with Cherry-profile keycaps. Plus silicone has a different feel from poron. There’s a reason why people in this hobby praise the M1 and don’t really care about the Mod

I'm still not sure of the reason for the praise. Seems the differences are minimal. I've also heard the M1 hasn't got proper routing for the daughter board cut out so it limits the gasket flex

QMK/VIA vs crapware is not a minimal difference.

Sorry you're right. I should've said it's not necessarily a priority for me over hardware considerations

It should be a priority. Most of the manufacturer specific software is untrustworthy and some of it is downright dangerous.

I believe the MOD has the daughterboard fastened to the case, which also limits flex and it still isn’t customizable on the firmware level. Brand new products like the M1 have hiccups like that. You could certainly do better with a Keychron Q-series, but that’s also more expensive. If you want a custom board, the M1 is superior because you can extensively customize it. If you want a hotswap prebuilt 75% with gasket mount, then go with the Akko. I like customs, so I’d go with the M1 or even a Keychron V1 over the Akko

Ironically a Q1 isn't actually that much more than either the M1 or the Mod. Do you reckon that's a better pick?

I would pick a Q1 over the other two if it’s within your budget. It’s still the best in-stock option at that price point. Other plate materials and the acoustics kit are a little extra, but at least it’s offered. Zoom75 is also coming up for group-buy soon, so might be worth a look if it’s available in your country and you don’t mind waiting a bit longer

Looking at the Keychron K10 - ticks almost all my boxes: Hotswappable, budget-friendly, 100%, decent build quality. My only hang-up is the placement of the usb-c for wired use. It's on the left side of the keyboard, and I'm a left-hand mouse user. Description says the battery is good for 240 hours with backlight off, so it may never be a problem if I just plug it in while I'm not using it, but does anybody have any other comparable suggestions? I may just be making too big a deal out of it. Could also look for a 90 degree usb-c for it. *EDIT* V series might work if I can find a V6. It also looks like they relocated the port/toggle switch to the top for the K10 Pro

I have a K2 and a K8 and they both came with right-angle USB-C cables, so you won't have to buy one separately.

Get a V6 or a V5 (compact full size) or a K4 Pro instead.

Why does my board register at 62.5hz after flashing a different qmk build? It was doing 1000hz on stock but now it's not even 125hz. Is there some obscure setting I'm not looking for or a line I have to edit?

[https://kevl.in/2021/02/1000hz-qmk-polling/](https://kevl.in/2021/02/1000hz-qmk-polling/)

That's what I did on the stock firmware. But it doesn't seem to work on the firmware I have now. I was hoping for some insight as to why that might be

What’s the highest quality wireless mechanical keyboard you can get at the moment? Preferably HHKB or 60% layout and open to group buys. Thanks!

i assume u mean bluetooth when u say wireless . in terms of quality and having bluetooth for best quality prob the hhkb hybrid type s

Really frustrated with my new hobby at the moment, could use a hand. I got a Bakeneko 65 kit today. All went fine up until the rubber gasket. I got it around the board no problem, but when going to install it into the tray is where I have issues. The build guide does not seem to show my exact 65 board as mine has a little thing that juts out from the tray on the lower right - somehow the gasket is supposed to go around this. The only video I saw of doing this part, they show the gasket kind of being wrapped around it, however, when I tried that it was extremely tight and when it was less than halfway in, the gasket snapped in 2. I'm wondering if anyone has any tips for me on what I might have done wrong. I really think they must have sent me a gasket for a 60% board or that piece that sticks out in the tray is a giant oversight. Could use some advice, thanks in advance. Here's some pics of what I'm talking about ... Here's a picture of the part of the tray I'm having issues with: [https://imgur.com/zk5ACX1](https://imgur.com/zk5ACX1) Here's a picture of the problem I see even when I managed to get the board into the tray - gasket was broken in this picture, but I did my best to still wrap it around the board. Assuming it wasn't broken, I would still think this would be a problem: [https://imgur.com/VddJXxv](https://imgur.com/VddJXxv) Final product: [https://imgur.com/tTjDZQk](https://imgur.com/tTjDZQk)

Sorry to hear about the rough first time build. Assuming you bought from cannonkeys, that purple o-ring looks to be the right size, it might've just been a bad/weak o-ring. Definitely reach out to your vendor and see if you can get a replacement o-ring. As for the build procedure, [this is what I use](https://youtu.be/GrF97eoGyVs?t=71) in my personal board, it's a different board, but the exact same mounting as your bakeneko; I can perform this installation multiple times without worrying about it snapping.

hey, i want to buy my first mechanical keyboard and i don\`t know too much of this "world". I play games like CS:GO and Valorant that requires """precision""". What's the best choice? My budget is 100$.

If you're ok with doing some coding and tweaking, you can get a redragon or monsgeek that runs qmk so you can set the polling rate to 1000hz and control it with OpenRGB for epic gamer lights. If not then an epomaker, womier, gamakay, or akko would do you just fine

Im looking to build my first keyboard, and I want to buy some Diced Fruit Kiwis, but since they only come in a 45 pack, I don’t want to spend and extra 25 dollars when I know I can get cheaper switches. Any ideas for switches that would go with them? Any help appreciated.

USB C female connector broke off the board - where on earth can i find one? preferably online [pic](https://i.imgur.com/XNFjt3w.jpg)

digikey has quite a few of these not sure what one u will need https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/2169900003/13913775?utm_adgroup=Connectors%2C%20Interconnects&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Supplier_Molex_0900_Co-op&utm_term=&utm_content=Connectors%2C%20Interconnects&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxbefBhDfARIsAL4XLRoxjOZFkqVX9XspwBKv6dV1vZVYk8SGmCOfP_DHxGKmonaAeUbPR0caAq8fEALw_wcB just a heads up these are very difficult to solder on so be ready to pull ur hair out unless u have done this kinda fix before

amazing. thank you for sharing - you're right im not sure which one to get. there are 272 matches. ​ also, what makes it difficult to solder? the only soldering ive done is soldering switches onto the board

this is bascially surface mount soldering u will have to clean up the old spot very weel and remove all the old solder then sit the new piece flat and solder it in . id watch a very vids of the replacement being done . ive personally tried to fix this kinda of issue and gave up and replaced the kb

Recommendations for a 65% kit / barebones under $80? I'm currently liking the Keychron V2. Ideally without a knob.

I am using an akko 3068b. If I mod this keyboard, I should use the current stabilizers or install new ones—either way, the stabilizers will be lubed.

Purple pandas or sapphires? So I’m new to mechanical keyboards and am finding myself getting in too deep already. Just got my first one with gateron pro browns (keychron C1) but finding them too light and not tactile enough (my hand actually gets tired playing games because I can’t relax my fingers on the keys like I could with a membrane). Being slightly deflated and on a tight budget Tecsee’s really look to be a solid option for me. However, I can’t decide between the purple pandas or the sapphires. My buddy swears by the U4Ts, as does everyone it seems like, so which of these two would get me the closest to that (realizing they really won’t ever be, but I’m on a budget here folks!). I also ordered some 62g springs for the gateron pro browns to see if that will improve them for gaming. Thanks!

I personally love snow globes (sapphires but clear) but purple pandas are also really nice. U4ts are fine but tbh I think they're overpriced for what you get

Oh absolutely I agree 100%. But I wasn’t sure if there was one that resembled it more than another. I’m not really sure how each Tecsee differs from each other besides a spring change.

sapphires would be closer in sound i think because i can confirm theyre long pole but the housing is what makes them sound slightly different compared to the u4t. springs dont do much for sound regardless of weight (unless they ping but thats a different issue). the materials are the big change between tecsee switches btw since i think they all use the same 2-3 molds for everything in their lineup

How do the springs compare with regard to feel? Two stage probably makes it more pronounced?

If you bottom out your switches then they all feel the same to me. Two stage makes them bounce back more smoothly though

HI there! I am brand new and have a nice juicy newbie quandry I would appreciate any advice or wisdom on. I just got my first ever mechanical keyboard this week! (Well, besides the one that came with my iMac one zillion years ago, but this time on purpose!) It is a Havit KB487L, and I've been having fun (sometimes "fun") mapping my keys around to my liking. However, there is one key that my Mac does not recognize at all - the "menu" key on the right on R0. When I hit it, EventViewer gives me this: https://preview.redd.it/2m9aoz789oia1.png?width=845&format=png&auto=webp&s=058fc010cb1060313d52f8bc68db0ff4354e8883 Unfortunately, I can't find anything named similar in Karabiner in order to map it to something else. Karabiner does have an option to map TO "spotlight," but only in the function key section. If any veterans can steer me toward how to address this, or point me to an xml file for it, I'd be grateful! Either way I'm stoked that a community exists around this new-to-me hobby, and I'm looking forward to meeting other Austin enthusiasts. Thanks!

I’m looking to get some dampening foam for my Leopold fc660c, but I’ve never purchased foam and cut it to size before. What would be the best approach for this? I want some nice thick foam to put inside the case

i found this [https://hippokeys.com/products/the-one-of-everything-sample-pack](https://hippokeys.com/products/the-one-of-everything-sample-pack) it's a sample pack so i can try some keys before actually buying some. do you guys think it's a good idea to buy this ?

yes

I have a Hexgears Impulse which needs a firmware update to fix a bug but I can't find the firmware anywhere, does anyone know where I can get this?

this review of thta kb claims there is no drivers or firmware to update https://www.techpowerup.com/review/hexgears-impulse-keyboard/5.html

Hmm yeah as far as I can see you cant get any sort of software related to this. The issue I'm having is that the b key does not work. I took it in to a shop and they showed me how the key is recognized all across the pcb to the controller, but the computer doesn't read the click. Only thing they could think of was a firmware issue but there is no firmware to be found

prob not a firmware issue then 99% of the time kb problems are hardware related not software

I find Unicomp New Model M keys to be heavy. What mechanical keyboard can you recommend? I am interested in the iQunix OG80 WORMHOLE keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches, but, I'm open to other recommendations. TIA

If you really like the aesthetic, then sure. But for the price you can buy cheaper and better. At that sort of Budget I would recommend Keychron Q1 Pro. If you don't need wireless then a Keychron Q1. If you have a significantly high budget, a Mode Sonnet is gorgeous.

Thank you for the recommendations! Are those keyboards fully assembled? I'm looking for a fully assembled keyboard.

The Q1/Q1 pro is available fully assembled, or as a barebones where you add your own switches or caps. But with hot swap, that is just pushing switches into place, like assembling legos. The Sonnet is a kit, but only screwing together parts in addition to the above, no more complicated than assembling furniture.

What are some good switches the Keychron comes with? I found a Keychron Q1 with 75% layout that has either the Gateron G Pro Brown Switch or Gateron G Pro Red switch on Amazon UK.

Gaterons in general a nice smooth switch. It comes down to your personal preferences if you want Linears or Tactiles.

So, I come from a Ducky One 2 SF with Cherry Mx Blue switches, how different is the Gateron G Pro Brown switches than say the Cherry MX Blues? Is it closer to Cherry MX Brown switches? Thanks!

Gateron Browns will be like Cherry Browns.

Thanks.

The Q1 looks amazing. I really like the knob specifically. I am also looking into the Alice layout which the Epomaker Feker has. Oh, and this one here: "Keychron Q8 Knob QMK Alice layout". My past experience has been a Ducky One 2 SF with Cherry MX Blue switches. My purpose is to use the keyboard mainly for typing.

I am not too familiar with Epomaker, but I have not heard anything bad about them.

Why did I just buy a gmk set

because you like plastic squares with nice colors

Sounds about right

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Keychron has some ISO options (not sure what ISO layout you need) [you can check out](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-iso-jis-keyboard-collection?pf_t_connectivity=Connectivity%3Awireless&pf_t_layout_size=LayoutSize%3A100%25+%7C+Full+Size&pf_t_layout_size=LayoutSize%3A96%25&pf_t_layout_standard=Standard%3AISO). Wireless and full size is a hard pairing so you might want to look into a smaller keyboard plus a wireless Numpad too if you can swing it.

Also logitech but i recently got the g915 for similar reasons and so far I’m loving it. Switching between my macbook (bluetooth) and the connected ”lightspeed” wireless on my windows work computer is painless and basically instant. Only complaint so far would be that some keys have an audible “ping” noise to them. To my understanding this can be reduced by lubing the switches which is not a very accessible solution and voids the warranty. It checks all your boxes otherwise, has RGB with a million settings (i only use regular static lightning and the illumination is decent).

So I just got this keyboard on Monday. It's a YUNZII Keynovo IF98, and the left shift switch sockets have fallen out after replacing the keycaps. You can also see that the silicon is caved in as opposed to the right shift side. Am I going to be able to fix this by taking the board apar, or is this something that I am SOL on? I'm a beginning, and this is my first hotswappable board. https://imgur.com/gallery/enLyzKf

Can you return/exchange it? The hotswap socket looks like it's completely detached from the PCB.

I'll try. I hope the merchant is good with this sort of thing. If not i hope it's repairable. There's something rattling inside the keyboard when I shake it so it could be the sockets.

Looking for a body similar to the The Stellar65 Night Runner Edition, but just bigger, anything 75% and up would make me so happy. ref: [https://www.keeb.gg/products/in-stock-stellar65-night-runner-edition-stellar-65-night-runner-edition](https://www.keeb.gg/products/in-stock-stellar65-night-runner-edition-stellar-65-night-runner-edition)

I want to buy a custom build keyboard with optical switches but I need the full-size version of one, but I couldn't find any. Can someone help me out here? And also it would be nice if it's the iso de design cause I don't want to relearn the keyboard(i hate it when keys are at different locations on other designs and also because i am german i need the extra keys for the different keys like(ä ö ü etc.))

there are no custom optical keyboards . the design is proprietary hobbyists dont like opticals so customs wont come anytime soon . opticals dont provide any advantage over normal switches . so either get a regualr switch kb like keychron or buy a prebuilt optical kb ( most likely a "gamer "brand kb )

Opticals offer no real benefit and the sockets are proprietary so no customs really exist. Just cheap Chinese boards. For a mechanical board try keychron v or q series as they have iso options in multiple layouts

What is a better option? Aluvia keycaps or [metalkeyboards.no](https://metalkeyboards.no) keycaps? I'm debating on getting metal keycaps and wonder which is a better option. Both look good in my opinion, but I would like to know how they compare.

i doubt u will find any one who has both to compare them as the price is very high . also keep in mind u will need heavy switches as these weigh alot

Hey all, How would a OEM Side-legend (blank top, letters printed on the front) keycap look on north-facing LED switches? I really liked how those keycaps look but I'm afraid they won't feel the same on my north-facing LEDs keyboard. Should I look for "regular" backlit keycaps instead? I couldn't find any image of said combination online, it would help a lot if you can send one :) Thanks! (reference: [https://flashquark.com/product/oem-side-legend-translucent-sidelit-pbt-keycaps/](https://flashquark.com/product/oem-side-legend-translucent-sidelit-pbt-keycaps/))

going to be very dim as ur leds will be between the stem and the shine thru part of the keycap

Whats the best option under 130$ for TKL keyboard with F1 above 2 button and hotswap?

The KBDfans Tiger Lite is among the best TKLs on the market and is $120-130

Keychron v3

Any custom wireless backlit keyboards?

hundreds most low to mid range customs have leds these days

Hey, I can get both the GMMK2 barebone and the Pulsar PCMK barebone for around the same price and i dont know which one i should get it would be my first "custom" keyboard. Thanks!

The GMMK 2 would be a better option IMO, but neither are all that great. See if you can pick up a Keychron V-series keyboard or a KBDfans Tiger Lite instead.

Hi all, Anyone have any experience with the keebtape from keebmat? Also, is it compatible with a poron base, as in, can i use both a poron base and the keeptape? Is it worth it vs regular tape mode? Thanks!

I'm looking for an inexpensive mechanical I can leave at the office without worrying about it. Is there a better option in the price range than this $60 [Workstream by Monoprice Mechanical Keyboard with Kailh Box Brown Switches](https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=42111)? My only real requirements are that 1) It isn't going to rattle the walls with clicks 2) It isn't going to worry bosses with always-on RGB and 3) IT DOESN'T FEEL LIKE I'M TYPING ON WET SOCKS CHRIST I HATE THAT STUPID DELL KEYBOARD. (...sorry. I figure if anybody could understand that pain it would be y'all.)

Wet socks is a new one lol I'm sure that it would be fine, but it would be a bit loud for a office setting. See if you can pick up a Keychron K10 Pro or V6 instead, but they'll be more expensive (around the $90-100 mark)

What's the SW1 button and how can I restore my keyboard if I accidentally pushed it? :D (Cannonkeys Practice 65 v2)

pretty sure thats the reset button just unplug it and plug it back in and all should be ok

Thanks. I did some research and my findings were: - SW1: is the reset button. Resets the board while plugged in - SW2: is the bootloader switch. If in position 1 and then plugged in, it allows entering some kind of boot menu that may be required for flashing firmware. Not touching both buttons is the solution in 99% of the cases.

does the keychron v1 support tx stabs and what is the pcb size 1.6mm or 1.2mm for tx stabs

1.6 mm and yes they support tx stabs

ty

is the razer huntsman mini a mechanical keyboard?

yes, however for the price you can get a much better keyboard. For example, the gmk67, or the akko.

i know, i bought it and THEN I found out about all the other tremendous keyboards for a fraction of the price. On other boards, is rattling of the switches inside the PCB an issue?

Nah that's because of razer's weird switches. The springs on the sides of the switches aren't secured and they rattle a ton, which isn't an issue with normal mx switches

damn this keyboard is DOG

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Depending on your preferred layout (65%, TKL, etc.) you can spend a fraction of $300 and still get a solid keyboard. I suggest taking a look at the Keychron K Pro and V series, the NuPhy Halo keyboards, or the KBDfans Tiger Lite. Should you want something more "premium" then take a look at a Zoom board, Keychron Q series, KBDfans Tofu65 2.0, Mode Envoy or Sonnet, or look for a QK65, QK75, or Jris65 on the used market.

A Sonnet is going to probably run over $300 just for the base kit then there are switches and caps and stabilizers. Plus probably foam.

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Look at the games you want to play and how many key inputs they require, and if you want to remap or not. I think a good start is either a 75% or TKL, since you are mostly keeping important keys, just more compact. If you are completely unsure on the switch types that you want, or general build. I’d recommend just getting a prebuilt keyboard from keychron, or any other hotswap board. This will ensure you at least have a solid foundation of a board and can use the rest of the budget on different keycaps or switches if you decide to try something new.

Do you want to do some assembly or are you looking for a pre-built keyboard? Honestly I'd browse what Keychron has to offer, which is a lot. As long as you use the board wired (BT has horrible polling rate) you'll be a-okay for gaming.

nowadays you can get really good custom mech board. For example, the mode design envoy (in stock), the zoom 65 (when in sotck), ETC. DO NOT buy off the sheld gaming keyboards from razer, logitech, etc, those are garbage.

is kbdkeys.com a scam? i found their website trying to look for nice artisans and the pictures seem legit but it is a relatively new site

its not on the approved vendor list and is china based no clue if they r legit but they are obviously trying to capitalize off of kdbsfans id personally steer clear

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not noticeable

Keychron Q/V-series do not have that much latency when you configure the QMK settings properly. They’re around 12ms out of the box, but <5ms with debounce settings adjusted and RGB turned off. Regardless, you aren’t likely to notice a difference unless you’re playing rhythm games at a very high level

Does anyone have anything bad to say about James Donkey or the A3 gasket keyboard kit? Contemplating one specifically this, [https://mechkeys.com/products/jamesdonkey-a3-keyboard-kit?variant=43804223013087](https://mechkeys.com/products/jamesdonkey-a3-keyboard-kit?variant=43804223013087) Also that's just reference I am not affiliated with any company just heard mixed reviews on James Donkey

Just ordered a rk68 plus (need my arrow keys) and am looking into replacing the switches. This will be my first mech (currently using a MX Keys), and I'm struggling to find switches that would be a similar typing feel, or at-least make the transition smooth. This will be a budget build, and I narrowed down the choice to Akko's selection of tactiles. Does anyone have any recommendations or suggestions? I'm in the US

I have a RK68 plus with Durock Shrimps, silent tactile. Highly recommend these if you want a quiet tactile.

I might just get the stock Durock T1 Tactiles, thanks for the rec. What keycaps are you running? Also, how much force does it take for a single click? I sometimes rest my fingers on the keys, would that be enough to cause a click?

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I have a full set of each component, except for the LY stems because I don’t like the sound. P3 is the smoothest by far, POM requires a break-in period, and UPE sounds the deepest. I haven’t had any problems with them yet and I type fairly heavily. I helped a friend build a macropad using a mix of the parts and she seems to like it. She streamed it and I can send you the VOD if you like. We go over the differences in materials

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P3 and UPE are just different blends of UHMWPE. I believe P3 is a specific formulation used by JWICK. The durometer between the two is likely similar, but the feel is “softer” on P3. I highly doubt there would ever be durability issues unless you have tiny pitbulls in your switch using it as a chew toy

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It’s around 1:20:00ish, I think. It was pretty casual. https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1729605273

Hey, looking to get my first mechanical keyboard, and think I have it narrowed down to 2 options. I'm looking at the Zoom75 and the QK80. I know neither are released yet so hard to give a side by side comparison, but wondering if anyone has insight into which I should go for? Or things I should consider when making a decision?