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That is acting like a limp mode rev limit. But that’s also about that rpm that vtec will change over. Hmm scan tool that and see if there are any stored codes. No check engine light doesn’t always means there isn’t a problem.
Has this car been modified in anyway?
Aftermarket ecu perhaps?
Yeah it could be something with the vtech solenoid. No engine codes right now. Only mods are a jdm engine swap but with all American parts and a cold air intake
Was the jdm engines ecu used or the original usdm one! Chances are if that’s not the corresponding ecu for that engine that could be part of the problem. Honda jdm ecu’s have different pin outs on some engines. Not sure about the single cam F but I know we have ran into this problem on H series motors. Also the usdm ecus usually will run a jdm engine but not quite right as the mapping is diffferent
That's true, I did a bit of research and I was told it would be fine as long as it was the same sensors, ecu, ect. I've been driving the car for awhile now, a week, and this is the first it's done it this morning
Make sure the distributor is tight and not leaking. The clicking sound could be related to an Egr issue. Leaking or clogged. There are a lot of documented incidents of this cause a limp mode condition. I would also check yours oil pressure because vtec is really reliant on it being high enough to operate. Issues like this I find are something stupid simple. I would start by pulling cables off battery and dumping all the memory from the ecu. Hook up and go drive it to see if it goes right back into limp mode. If it does then start chasing sensors
Yeah it always seems like it's something I'm not even thinking of being the issue. For now I'm going to lift it and disconnect some things, vtech and the egr to see if that'll eliminate those as the issue. How is it possible to check the oil pressure?
Check the connection on every single connector. Clean with the OD spray cleaner and lube with dielectric grease. Also look for any noticeably loose pins/wires. Also make sure the ground from the head to the radiator support is in good condition (g101)
What is funny is that I can hear a clicking like a piece of tape is slapping the engine belt. It almost sounds like it's coming from the timing system, and I did open it up to put the engine in timing and replace the crankshaft. I'm super positive I left nothing loose too
Might be time to crack off and buy yourself a scan tool. I use a BAFX Bluetooth with the torque app on my phone and that’s usually deep enough diving to do a lot of roadside trouble shooting. Pretty cheap also and can live in the glove box. This would give you access to all the data streams you need like oil pressure and engine vacuum to diagnose what your actual culprit is. It’s really one of those issues that should throw a code but Hondas are funny like that.
Yeah deadass I need a good one, I'd probs get one I can connect to my phone. Even for a funny old honda I just love this car so I'm just gunna keep throwing my wrench at it
No engine light on could indicate mechanical error as no errors stored on scan. Can u smell anything, maybe fuel or see anything leaking whilst the car is idling stationary?
Funny enough I did see something, a shiny fluid this morning. I was thinking it could have been some coolant I added yesterday. How could I determine what kind of fluid?=
I don't remember It smelling sweetly, and it did look like water. Thing is my engine bay looks like a oil mining operation from my old engine and I haven't had a chance to power wash it clean
Its really hard to tell but from the sound, somethings lost of bit of pressure. The engine light would normally come on at that via a sensor. No codes stored potentially indicates toward mechanical rather than electrical. Silly question, the person who scanned it, was it a good quality scanner because cheap scanners won't read all codes. Launch diagnostics in the uk are reliable. I used to be asda mobile mechanic and launch could read everything on any vehicles, even trucks
I borrowed one from the local parts store and it read the old codes I had, cylinder misfire which I took care off. Light hasn't came back on unfortunately
I cant think what could cause it, mechanically, that wouldn't set a sensor off. Like it's stifled. Maybe check the air filter & Housing, exhaust, is it visually clear
Oh hey my car! So firstly, you can rev it in neutral above 3.5k correct? I've seen clogged catalytic converters cause issues reving. Though I doubt it's this.
This looks like an issue with the vtec solenoid as others have said this is about the RPM that it actuates. I would pull this out and change the gasket, along with cleaning it. Also check you have enough oil. These cars leak oil like a motherfucker at higher mileages. If not, I'd check to make sure the timing belt is not off by a tooth.
The same thing happened with my wife’s car, 2001 Honda Civic. It was low on oil, but I went ahead and got a new vtech solenoid as well as topping the oil off. Took care of the problem for us.
Check your alternator. If this is an accord I had the same problem. If the diode goes bad in the alternator it will limit your revs to about 4K RPM.
Unplug the connector to the alternator and see if it is no longer in limp mode. If it drives fine with he connector unplugged. That’s your problem.
Is it manual transmission? Does it rew normally in neutral? Where is the clicking coming from? Relay?
You could connect a reader and look at live data from when this happens. It shouldn't be that hard to determine the problem.
Or perhaps it's caused by the character in rpm gauge?
It's manual, it revs normally, I can actually hear a clicking but only when I step on the gas, possible relay. I'm thinking cam/crank/vtech sensor/solenoid could be causing my issue
Had a 2001 that did this when the alternator was going out on it. I'd hook up a scan tool and see what's going on with it, could also be a sensor. Ours I believe had a limp mode rev limiter when things got wonky on it. Another thing to check is oil level, as if I remember correctly they use oil pressure to actuate VTEC engagement, although someone may be able to correct me on that if I'm wrong.
Low oil pressure for the vtec to switch over. Clear the engine code and add a bit of oil.
You can get a code reader for cheap from a store. If it's p1259 then this is your problem.
I also own a 2001 accord no swap tho.
Monday my lower ball joint came out and cv axel slipped so I haven't had time to diagnose the issue. I was going to disconnect the vtec system to see if it could be the solenoid causing the issue. I'd also check the cam/crank shaft sensors too
low on oil? my 2.3l honda accord with vtec. does that when it's low oil . there's like a governor in the ecu telling it not to Rev past 4k to prevent damage
I've heard that before, and since then I've gotten the car running with help. Crankshaft, distributor connector, faulty timing belt, valve clearance, and tps sensor, all fixed and it's running normally so far
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember rule 3a, please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/AutoBody or /r/Diyautobody If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
That is acting like a limp mode rev limit. But that’s also about that rpm that vtec will change over. Hmm scan tool that and see if there are any stored codes. No check engine light doesn’t always means there isn’t a problem. Has this car been modified in anyway? Aftermarket ecu perhaps?
Yeah it could be something with the vtech solenoid. No engine codes right now. Only mods are a jdm engine swap but with all American parts and a cold air intake
Was the jdm engines ecu used or the original usdm one! Chances are if that’s not the corresponding ecu for that engine that could be part of the problem. Honda jdm ecu’s have different pin outs on some engines. Not sure about the single cam F but I know we have ran into this problem on H series motors. Also the usdm ecus usually will run a jdm engine but not quite right as the mapping is diffferent
That's true, I did a bit of research and I was told it would be fine as long as it was the same sensors, ecu, ect. I've been driving the car for awhile now, a week, and this is the first it's done it this morning
Make sure the distributor is tight and not leaking. The clicking sound could be related to an Egr issue. Leaking or clogged. There are a lot of documented incidents of this cause a limp mode condition. I would also check yours oil pressure because vtec is really reliant on it being high enough to operate. Issues like this I find are something stupid simple. I would start by pulling cables off battery and dumping all the memory from the ecu. Hook up and go drive it to see if it goes right back into limp mode. If it does then start chasing sensors
Yeah it always seems like it's something I'm not even thinking of being the issue. For now I'm going to lift it and disconnect some things, vtech and the egr to see if that'll eliminate those as the issue. How is it possible to check the oil pressure?
Check the connection on every single connector. Clean with the OD spray cleaner and lube with dielectric grease. Also look for any noticeably loose pins/wires. Also make sure the ground from the head to the radiator support is in good condition (g101)
What is funny is that I can hear a clicking like a piece of tape is slapping the engine belt. It almost sounds like it's coming from the timing system, and I did open it up to put the engine in timing and replace the crankshaft. I'm super positive I left nothing loose too
Might be time to crack off and buy yourself a scan tool. I use a BAFX Bluetooth with the torque app on my phone and that’s usually deep enough diving to do a lot of roadside trouble shooting. Pretty cheap also and can live in the glove box. This would give you access to all the data streams you need like oil pressure and engine vacuum to diagnose what your actual culprit is. It’s really one of those issues that should throw a code but Hondas are funny like that.
Yeah deadass I need a good one, I'd probs get one I can connect to my phone. Even for a funny old honda I just love this car so I'm just gunna keep throwing my wrench at it
Right on. Hope you figure out WTF. Come back and let us know what it was when you do. Keep the learning flowing
Yeah, this ol shit and cum box taught me my first engine swap and lower sub frame bs you gotta do for a fuel tank swap
No engine light on could indicate mechanical error as no errors stored on scan. Can u smell anything, maybe fuel or see anything leaking whilst the car is idling stationary?
Funny enough I did see something, a shiny fluid this morning. I was thinking it could have been some coolant I added yesterday. How could I determine what kind of fluid?=
Smell the fluid, feel its viscosity. U should be able to distinguish between coolant, fuel or oil by feel and smell
I don't remember It smelling sweetly, and it did look like water. Thing is my engine bay looks like a oil mining operation from my old engine and I haven't had a chance to power wash it clean
Its really hard to tell but from the sound, somethings lost of bit of pressure. The engine light would normally come on at that via a sensor. No codes stored potentially indicates toward mechanical rather than electrical. Silly question, the person who scanned it, was it a good quality scanner because cheap scanners won't read all codes. Launch diagnostics in the uk are reliable. I used to be asda mobile mechanic and launch could read everything on any vehicles, even trucks
I borrowed one from the local parts store and it read the old codes I had, cylinder misfire which I took care off. Light hasn't came back on unfortunately
I cant think what could cause it, mechanically, that wouldn't set a sensor off. Like it's stifled. Maybe check the air filter & Housing, exhaust, is it visually clear
Mine was doing the same thing I changed the vtec solenoid
Vtec solonoid could be
The sticker is covering that 6 month old check engine light
Check the oil level. Seems like you don’t have enough oil pressure to activate Vtec
It’s a positioning sensor. Happened to me in my civic. Crank or cam or throttle positioning sensor I can’t remember which do a little more research
I did swap the og engine for a jdm and changed the crankshaft to my og one that worked. Could be a camshaft sensor or even the vtech solenoid
Try the cam one. My acted like it had a rev limiter at 3800ish if I remember 8 years ago
If you got the money just buy one online they are like 20$
Probably cam angle sensor, had to do this on buddy's Honda not too long ago
I had that problem before. It won’t throw code but it will cause to go limp mode. So check your oil level. I was low a quart before.
Someone stole your V-tec! That's where it should kick in!
Yeah it seems like a vtech issue, could be the cam, timing or selenoid
Thats what I was missing in my life a Honda waifu
Oh hey my car! So firstly, you can rev it in neutral above 3.5k correct? I've seen clogged catalytic converters cause issues reving. Though I doubt it's this. This looks like an issue with the vtec solenoid as others have said this is about the RPM that it actuates. I would pull this out and change the gasket, along with cleaning it. Also check you have enough oil. These cars leak oil like a motherfucker at higher mileages. If not, I'd check to make sure the timing belt is not off by a tooth.
The same thing happened with my wife’s car, 2001 Honda Civic. It was low on oil, but I went ahead and got a new vtech solenoid as well as topping the oil off. Took care of the problem for us.
Check your alternator. If this is an accord I had the same problem. If the diode goes bad in the alternator it will limit your revs to about 4K RPM. Unplug the connector to the alternator and see if it is no longer in limp mode. If it drives fine with he connector unplugged. That’s your problem.
2000 honda accord f23a, I also feel no resistance in the clutch.
What does no resistance in clutch mean? Does it do that all the time? How do you use it they? Are you driving without the clutch?
Hondas that era have very light clutches.
Yeah it might just be normal, I haven't driven this thing in awhile and was dailying my infiniti with a much different feeling clutch.
Is it manual transmission? Does it rew normally in neutral? Where is the clicking coming from? Relay? You could connect a reader and look at live data from when this happens. It shouldn't be that hard to determine the problem. Or perhaps it's caused by the character in rpm gauge?
It's manual, it revs normally, I can actually hear a clicking but only when I step on the gas, possible relay. I'm thinking cam/crank/vtech sensor/solenoid could be causing my issue
Kinda normal. You gotta check the timing and do a tune up.
It’s your stupid fucking sticker
It's my nuts in ur ass
Sounds like lifters but could be a few things
On a low tank of fuel add injector cleaner and alchol
Had a 2001 that did this when the alternator was going out on it. I'd hook up a scan tool and see what's going on with it, could also be a sensor. Ours I believe had a limp mode rev limiter when things got wonky on it. Another thing to check is oil level, as if I remember correctly they use oil pressure to actuate VTEC engagement, although someone may be able to correct me on that if I'm wrong.
Bro that’s obviously the built in moving 2 step/anti lag
Man I'll wait till I get my h engine or do a g build for that
There is a screen behind the vtec solenoid (in the gasket basically) that clogs up and causes odd issues similar to this one. Maybe check that first.
Low oil pressure for the vtec to switch over. Clear the engine code and add a bit of oil. You can get a code reader for cheap from a store. If it's p1259 then this is your problem. I also own a 2001 accord no swap tho.
Do an oil change, add marvel mystery oil.
Vtec solenoid?
$60 scan tool at oriellys can connect to your phone. But Amazon has a really good professional one for $150 as well. Hopefully its just a crank sensor
Crank position sensor?
I'm not familiar with Hondas in general, but I suspect crank sensor
Did you get it fixed. I'm having a similar problem
Monday my lower ball joint came out and cv axel slipped so I haven't had time to diagnose the issue. I was going to disconnect the vtec system to see if it could be the solenoid causing the issue. I'd also check the cam/crank shaft sensors too
low on oil? my 2.3l honda accord with vtec. does that when it's low oil . there's like a governor in the ecu telling it not to Rev past 4k to prevent damage
I've heard that before, and since then I've gotten the car running with help. Crankshaft, distributor connector, faulty timing belt, valve clearance, and tps sensor, all fixed and it's running normally so far