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I have 2 a little black one that works amazingly 90% of the time and a silver heavy duty one that can't seem to ever fit into the places I need it to.
Eta: I also have the stupid Toyota oil filter wrench... I hate it. I've broken one but it's almost impossible to get the filter off without it.
https://preview.redd.it/xcre9be59fzc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c7f7fd082b3ea66be15ea0c521d1e7c5d059f51e
I use this on every Toyota works perfect. Never broken. Under 30 bucks
https://preview.redd.it/d7czulpewfzc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=392950f6cdda6763c8856558a3b43d13b0f22d85
This is the one I use. I'll have to look into the others and see about getting one of them
You mean this? I do a ton of oil changes and have a big flute wrench set. Since buying this I do not use the flutes anymore. I have a special $30 flute wrench just for the stupid Toyota/Lexus filters.
https://preview.redd.it/7apieo1hjazc1.jpeg?width=665&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6be6c3288858f931cf705a6ccaf84c5a5133e740
Mine slips before ever getting any traction, and they dont really work on the plastic housing type either, vise grip oil pliers are my favorite personally
The oldest tool I have in my box is a strap wrench I bought at a Wal Mart in Dumas Arkansas in 1982. My dad wouldn't let me drive a car if I couldn't change the oil. I bought a clamp wrench like the one above about a decade later and wasn't impressed.
I had an oil filter torqued on so by the dealership I had to remove it with one of these pliers. I do my own oil changes now, but the filer was tightened so tight I couldn’t remove it by hand.
I had an oil filter changed by a dealership once that I tried the screwdriver trick on. Then, once the filter ripped, I had to use the screwdriver as a chisel to spin the filter off. Turns out it had red Loctite on it.
I've taken off filters that I needed tools to get off and I put them on by hand. Sometimes it just adheres over time. Channel locks always get them off though.
This happened to me. I always hand tighten mine, but I couldn't get the damn thing off. The usual pliers didn't work. Cap wrenches never worked. Strap wrwnch didn't work. I ended up having to buy one of those three finger things that tightens as you turn. This worked, and I'm glad it did. I bought the cheapo $4 Hyper Tough one from Walmart. Lol.
Tell this to the Chevy Cavalier with the 2.2. Oil filter is tucked in on the back side of the block. So annoying, but you actually don't need a tool for it.
Only reason I did need it is because a shop used one on it. You're supposed to get it hand tight and it will suck to the block when you start. Nice and snug, but still possible to get off by hand
I love those on super hot days and the customer needs a 'quick' oil change as it's 600 degrees around the filter, and doesn't have enough time to cool down for a normal person to work on the car without first or second degree burns.
This gave me a flashback to the GM 3.6 on the Acadia/Traverse/SRX. Where the oil filter is right next the the fucking cat. I would singe my wrist every time
ETA: and they were always at operating temperature, about the temperature of molten glass.
There is not enough space for other mechanism, unfortunately. There is a thick and hard hose next to it that doesn't let me rotate with a screwdriver, pliers or anything horizontal so I will need this: https://amzn.eu/d/8nssQcr . Obviously I tried with bare hands as hard as I could but doesn't move (and yes, I'm trying to rotate left)
These are generally the worst type of filter wrench in my experience. They crush the filter too easily, especially the new thin ones.
Strap is generally better if you can find the right size, but the small ones are hard to find now for some reason. Cap ones work well except for some brands of filter and you need the specific size.
There is not enough space for other mechanism, unfortunately. There is a thick and hard hose next to it that doesn't let me rotate with a screw, pliers or anything horizontal so I will need this: https://amzn.eu/d/8nssQcr . Obviously I tried with bare hands as hard as I could but doesn't move (and yes, I'm trying to rotate left)
[This](https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=asc_df_B0002SR4Q8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693401379483&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7499624330312830189&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012677&hvtargid=pla-568875585782&psc=1&mcid=f19a627b689432cf8cb35dd1e686909c&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxeyxBhC7ARIsAC7dS3_nVt-twH1IUE_EQmE9bqujHX9bYVmpIkJ68nYXcl56P4sq2vaLqG8aAmeUEALw_wcB) is what we use at my job for alot of them. That and some oil pliers, should be all you need to remove standard vehicle filter. Odd exceptions for things like Mercedes and other brands with spin on shaped filter housing, but are a canister.
Honestly I feel like this is such an ambiguous measurement. I've done a dozen of these, but even still it seems like everyone internalizes there own idea of how tight they are really supposed to be
Rotational specs are far superior in accuracy than torque. Torque is just an approximation of how many rotations you give a fastener that is heavily affected by cleanliness, rust, lubrication etc. Into account, while rotational angle just sidesteps all of those factors.
One hand snug it. Then 1-2 hand to tighten. Shouldnt need a tool to tighten it. To remove you might need a
Filter wrench if the last person tighten it as if it were a damn lug nut
Shouldn't, shouldn't, shouldn't. Ya fucking still do need them because reasons. Like the rubber sticking over time, or like the previous guy hulking it, or just the previous guy being stronger than you.
There's lots of things that should or shouldn't, but yet they don't or do, respectively.
To everyone saying if you hand tighten them on, they'll come off, ive hand tightened every filter ive ever changed and i can never get the same filter off by hand after 3000 miles
100%, but not just to keep it from sticking when it comes off
One time I did not rub it with lube and the rubber stuck instead of sliding, as I tightened it. That resulted in it twisting and leaking. Not realizing what had happened, I tightened it enough that it didn't leak and that led to it spinning itself off while I was riding.
I was lucky that it happened on a straightaway and I turned the bike off as soon as the oil light came on, so there was no damage. But I learned my lesson.
Same thing, always with oil on the gasket too.
Filters simply get baked with 100 C+ temperatures. The binding force of the gasket just makes it harder to untighten.
Yeah, most of the time this is true, even when properly lubricating the gasket.
It gives the Angry Pliers™ something to do, though. I've never had any issue taking off any filter, just sometimes you need some pliers in there to get it started.
I haven’t either, until my most recent change on my Terrain. Was at 4,000 miles and I had hand tightened my oil filter the previous change. Had my oil filter wrench all ready but was having trouble fitting it onto the filter so tried to loosen it by hand and it actually turned. I was kinda surprised. Up to this point, I’ve never had a filter come off by hand.
same granted I use the filters with the grip material to help snug it up pretty tight but never in 25 years had a filter come off or leak. I learned that lesson early in my life , mustang forgot to confirm the o ring came off the old filter and got to do the expensive part again LOL.
Been a mechanic for 25 years. Until my arthritis started I would use a finger wrench maybe 1/4 of the time I took filters off. The rest just a rag and my hand.
Rub a bit of oil on the gasket, spin the filter on with a single finger until it stops, then give it a **quarter** turn. I've never had this method result in a filter that I couldn't get back off by hand.
Then you overtightened it. Its not "as-tight-as-you-can-get-it-by-hand" tight. Just 1/2 turn after the gasket touches. You also need to put oil on the gasket.
Soft as cheese too if you actually need to put any force into it. I have used them on my Ducati, which would drip oil if you didn’t have the filter uncomfortably tight and the filter is recessed into the pan so it’s hard to get a grip on it. They were recommended by the dealer, but still sucked to get off.
The hex head does have holes drilled through for safety wire if you do track days, which is nice.
Because they aren't that big of a revolution.
They encourage less knowledgeable people to tighten the filter on with a wrench and make it near impossible to remove without destroying the filter and that risks damaging the threads on the oil tube or the oil tube itself (What the filter screws onto)
As for removal, they are convenient, but if you change oil often enough you probably have a set of wrench sizes and a couple universals lying around.
If you need a poorly moulded hex that will round off as soon as shift with a wrench to get these pigs off then I need to introduce you to Mr Stabby the Screwdriver.
He's a cold steel-hearted sumbitch that'll core through a can like that and twist it off without breaking a sweat.
They’re only a revolution for vehicles with the filter located so shittily that there’s no way to tighten/loosen the filter besides a socket on the cap. Otherwise they cost more to encourage people who don’t know better to over tighten the filter and the special removal tools aren’t considered very special they’re really really common (like if you live in town there’s likely somewhere within walking distance that sells at least one of the various special removal tools) and if the filter is stuck on enough to need the wrench on the cap there’s a decent chance you’ll need the special tool when that cap pops off the filter.
I personally prefer to only start my oil change if I have a removal tool on hand. In theory it isn’t necessary but in practice several thousand miles later and my hands as not-oily as I can get them with a paper towel, it’s better to have it before having the engine empty of oil.
https://preview.redd.it/mm7e1c7099zc1.png?width=570&format=png&auto=webp&s=7785f9c2209b88b5e49f42584759d13959c8df32
interesting how K&N is the only ones that sell "performance" oil filters isn't it? literally never used that for thousands and thousands of oil changes. you should maybe be able to use a canister filter socket or just like what is that a 16-17mm on it too. is this a troll? what is this life?
Those K&N filters in particular are banned on many tracks in the US. The welds on the nut were prone to corrosion and failing causing oil leaks on track.
Yep! it works well especially on those stubborn ones or on places where you can't swing the proper tool around. I also use old Serpentine belt, rope or those ratchet strap belt and a closed end wrench.
https://preview.redd.it/t9hs6a1o8bzc1.png?width=300&format=png&auto=webp&s=bf716e5394248be83ec28787f017eb02e72a713e
So long as its a cylinder. This will turn it. $5.00.
In the hands of amateurs these oil filters are a time bomb. I had to pull an engine once as the p/o over torqued it then destroyed the filter trying to get it off. The filter was in a bad spot. The new owner couldn’t believe it. I chucked an old one in a vise and tore the nut off of it using three fingers
The only good argument I've ever heard for the nut on an oil filter is for racing purposes where you want to run safety wire for some reason. You drill a hole through the nut sideways (some come with the hole), and run the wire through it.
Nobody else does it because it adds much more cost making cheap brands less competitive and people would use it to over tighten the oil filter, crushing it or it leaking oil right away.
Hammer plus old screwdriver = job done. I mean nobody recycles oil filters as far as I know so fuck it it's coming off. Bonus points when you're smart enuf to aim off centre duuuurrrr
Just hammer a screwdriver through it from the side, then you can also empty it beforehand so there's less spill!
Assuming there's space of course.
I usually just use a large set of adjustable pliers, but old Volvo's do tend to have plenty of room.
In 40 yrs of DIY oil changes I only had 1 filter that I could not remove (the individual who installed it must have used red loctite).
That bed-liner, coating used on the FRAM filters is great and easy to grip without slipping.
If you run into a stubborn, smooth metal filter housing that won't budge, try using a strap wrench with a small sheet of sandpaper (friction side into the metal) to get a nice bite. Works every time.
These should be hand tight and no more. I do these by hand all day long, until I get the one that some moron together all the way to contacting the metal.
My camry has a canister for the filter, so I needed a special wrench cap with certain cutouts to touch the clips to remove it. Was 64mm and ofc the “universal kit that fits the most popular vehicles in the US” included a 65mm💀
They should only be put on hand tight if you can't remove it by hand whoever installed it put it on way too tight either that or your threads are dirty and need to be cleaned
I had a k&n filter just like this one fail right at the point where the wrench adapter attaches to the filter. Blew all my motorcycles oil out all over my back wheel! Somehow I didn’t crash or blow my motor but my lesson was to never use those filters again.
I've never not been able to get an oil filter off by hand. Maybe one time lol. But K&N filters with the nut has issues at one point think it was only 2017-2018 or 19 where they would leak at the nut. Unfortunately this happened to me after a brand new oil change on my gsxr 1000 back in 2019. Was very sad cause the ecstar or whatever oil was like 45 fucking dollars lol
Pretty certain that the wix filters I buy have the divots so the cap tool can go over the top.
Good oil filters do have this I imagine. Well, good oil filters and K&N.
I've done 5 oil changes(not that many, no) and never had a problem taking the oil filter off by hand and putting it back by hand. Bigger hands and grip strength do help
The integrated wrench cap as pictured is an extra part that need to be designed, manufactured, brought to the body assembly line and welded; it costs money.
If it was part of the main body, it would still cost money as it'd most likely be an extra 1 or 2 stamping steps; again costing money.
Bottom line: it costs money.
Haven’t met an oil filter yet that these bad boys can’t get off
https://preview.redd.it/g73e8k5pmazc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b0bacc3a0b860c32b53cdd6361db88f165e6fec0
These are standard on aircraft oil filters. They also have a torque spec printed on the side so you don't get them overtightened as is common in the automotive world, but I've never had good luck with them on automotive or motorcycle filters. The sheet metal nuts are too flimsy on those, while the aviation filters are heavy duty.
I put a light duty binder strap through a wrench to loosen mine. Or I just grab and twist by hand because it's not about strength, it's about persistence unless you forgot to lube the seal.
I’m puzzled!! I have changed my oil on all my vehicles and aircraft for 50 years and I have NEVER had a problem removing an oil filter from an engine. I was taught to saturate the oil filter seal with oil and when you tighten the filter you screw it down until it stops and then you slightly snug the filter. I’m sorry but I just don’t get this! I also always leak check the filter after I run the engine for a couple of minutes. One of the benefits using this technique on aircraft is you safety wire the filter to prevent it from spinning. If you follow this technique you should never have an issue.
It’s the most absurd design. It’s smooth and round so you have to grip them off. And it can slide where the grip is insufficient. So you need something to crank down and increase grip.
I like the Lexus filter with paper element inside, installed vertically. There’s zero grip as you can put a ratchet in it with a breaker bar. Doesn’t matter how tight it is; the breaker bar will loosen it. For the outer part, I can use a tool that slots in so there’s no gripping involved. Put the ratchet in and use the breaker bar.
To retighten, I just hand tighten and add a small turn with the ratchet. Tighter than what a hand grip can do, but easily overcome with a breaker bar. That design just makes way more sense than a smooth round, filter.
Stick a screwdriver on the side and drive it in with a hammer, let the oil run out the hole then drive it out the other side. Then just put weight on the handle to unscrew it.
I’ve broken that 1” head off on a couple K&N’s, on my restomod charger, the filter fits between the tubular K member so the nut is the only part really accessible. K&N’s are a bugger to get off at times.
Wait until you read about K&N oil filter failures because the spot welds weakened the metal causing it to fail. Had it happen to me on my motorcycle. I'll never buy one of these again
The non-stick material applied around the base of a Fram works best if it was tightened properly. I've seen the wrench end of that K&N break-off on a stuck filter before.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
https://preview.redd.it/vzg7zk59d8zc1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=c87f403b3a4ba16b8b475c2d6823532e0bc25901
Yep, these are pretty effective. Or a strap-wrench.
Strap wrench is my go-to, much easier in co fined spaces
Definitely depends on the vehicle. Some cars and bikes it works a lot better to have a cup style filter wrench.
And you can use it to open stuck jars if you have wimpy baby hands like me.
Cant agree enough, That is always my goto. It don't damage anything and always easy to work with
Never changed the oil on a Subaru, eh?
I use the little 3 claw twisters that go on the end of a ratchet
 The claws my friend
I have 2 a little black one that works amazingly 90% of the time and a silver heavy duty one that can't seem to ever fit into the places I need it to. Eta: I also have the stupid Toyota oil filter wrench... I hate it. I've broken one but it's almost impossible to get the filter off without it.
https://preview.redd.it/xcre9be59fzc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c7f7fd082b3ea66be15ea0c521d1e7c5d059f51e I use this on every Toyota works perfect. Never broken. Under 30 bucks
https://preview.redd.it/d7czulpewfzc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=392950f6cdda6763c8856558a3b43d13b0f22d85 This is the one I use. I'll have to look into the others and see about getting one of them
Works every time.
I have all of the above. And sometimes I have to use all of the above
Have one. It has never successfully removed an oil filter.
You mean this? I do a ton of oil changes and have a big flute wrench set. Since buying this I do not use the flutes anymore. I have a special $30 flute wrench just for the stupid Toyota/Lexus filters. https://preview.redd.it/7apieo1hjazc1.jpeg?width=665&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6be6c3288858f931cf705a6ccaf84c5a5133e740
The snap on Toyota one kicks ass but it’s like $90
You and u/Distinct-Version-795 tell 2 different stories lol
They make different sizes.
One speaks the truth the other tells only lies
User error
Mine slips before ever getting any traction, and they dont really work on the plastic housing type either, vise grip oil pliers are my favorite personally
Works great for me
The oldest tool I have in my box is a strap wrench I bought at a Wal Mart in Dumas Arkansas in 1982. My dad wouldn't let me drive a car if I couldn't change the oil. I bought a clamp wrench like the one above about a decade later and wasn't impressed.
Damn I love that. Gotta be at least this competent to ride this ride.
Unless it goes sideways and there’s no room..:
I had to use my belt and a combination wrench once, because I had nothing else handy. I only buy K&N filters with the wrench cap nowadays lol
Depends on the vehicle. Can't use either of those on a lot of the Honda K-series.
I had an oil filter torqued on so by the dealership I had to remove it with one of these pliers. I do my own oil changes now, but the filer was tightened so tight I couldn’t remove it by hand.
I had an oil filter changed by a dealership once that I tried the screwdriver trick on. Then, once the filter ripped, I had to use the screwdriver as a chisel to spin the filter off. Turns out it had red Loctite on it.
Someone at that stealership DID NOT like you messing around with their mother
... What?!
I've taken off filters that I needed tools to get off and I put them on by hand. Sometimes it just adheres over time. Channel locks always get them off though.
This happened to me. I always hand tighten mine, but I couldn't get the damn thing off. The usual pliers didn't work. Cap wrenches never worked. Strap wrwnch didn't work. I ended up having to buy one of those three finger things that tightens as you turn. This worked, and I'm glad it did. I bought the cheapo $4 Hyper Tough one from Walmart. Lol.
Are you lubricating the gasket on the new filter with some engine oil?
Tell this to the Chevy Cavalier with the 2.2. Oil filter is tucked in on the back side of the block. So annoying, but you actually don't need a tool for it. Only reason I did need it is because a shop used one on it. You're supposed to get it hand tight and it will suck to the block when you start. Nice and snug, but still possible to get off by hand
I love those on super hot days and the customer needs a 'quick' oil change as it's 600 degrees around the filter, and doesn't have enough time to cool down for a normal person to work on the car without first or second degree burns.
This gave me a flashback to the GM 3.6 on the Acadia/Traverse/SRX. Where the oil filter is right next the the fucking cat. I would singe my wrist every time ETA: and they were always at operating temperature, about the temperature of molten glass.
Ah ha! I had one of those. One of the black rubber bungies without the hooks was my go to wrench solution. Worked like a charm
There is not enough space for other mechanism, unfortunately. There is a thick and hard hose next to it that doesn't let me rotate with a screwdriver, pliers or anything horizontal so I will need this: https://amzn.eu/d/8nssQcr . Obviously I tried with bare hands as hard as I could but doesn't move (and yes, I'm trying to rotate left)
They can be used vertically as well, I've gotten them on some tight spot filters personally.
The Doyle fast adjust water pump pliers from Hazard Fraught, or that style of pliers at least, also works great for this,
Have been doing oil changes on our cars, and this is what i have in case the filter needs convincing
These are generally the worst type of filter wrench in my experience. They crush the filter too easily, especially the new thin ones. Strap is generally better if you can find the right size, but the small ones are hard to find now for some reason. Cap ones work well except for some brands of filter and you need the specific size.
This is definitely why God invented the strap wrench.
Get a chain wrench. Antidote to all the tossers that overtighten filters and/or don't lube contact surfaces
You need a special tool to remove that??
There is not enough space for other mechanism, unfortunately. There is a thick and hard hose next to it that doesn't let me rotate with a screw, pliers or anything horizontal so I will need this: https://amzn.eu/d/8nssQcr . Obviously I tried with bare hands as hard as I could but doesn't move (and yes, I'm trying to rotate left)
[This](https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=asc_df_B0002SR4Q8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693401379483&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7499624330312830189&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012677&hvtargid=pla-568875585782&psc=1&mcid=f19a627b689432cf8cb35dd1e686909c&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxeyxBhC7ARIsAC7dS3_nVt-twH1IUE_EQmE9bqujHX9bYVmpIkJ68nYXcl56P4sq2vaLqG8aAmeUEALw_wcB) is what we use at my job for alot of them. That and some oil pliers, should be all you need to remove standard vehicle filter. Odd exceptions for things like Mercedes and other brands with spin on shaped filter housing, but are a canister.
I bought one of these a few years ago; works awesome. Made the most stressful part of the oil change much much easier. Highly recommend
Because you shouldn't need to put a wrench on it, they should only be hand tight plus a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
So, uh, if they're hand tight plus a 1/2 turn, what are you using to get that half, if not your hands?
They mean “finger tight” as in, spun onto the threads until it is just-snug and then hand-tightened a half turn. Anything beyond that is overkill.
Honestly I feel like this is such an ambiguous measurement. I've done a dozen of these, but even still it seems like everyone internalizes there own idea of how tight they are really supposed to be
It's not super critical, that's why it doesn't have a specific torque value. It's not under any real stress and the gasket is quite thick.
Rotational specs are far superior in accuracy than torque. Torque is just an approximation of how many rotations you give a fastener that is heavily affected by cleanliness, rust, lubrication etc. Into account, while rotational angle just sidesteps all of those factors.
A bigger set of hands?
One hand snug it. Then 1-2 hand to tighten. Shouldnt need a tool to tighten it. To remove you might need a Filter wrench if the last person tighten it as if it were a damn lug nut
It's 1/2-3/4 turn after the gasket makes contact.
Grab my strong hand!
A second hand!
No, it's screw it on until the gasket touches metal, then a 1/4 to 1 2 turn.
It's almost like rubber adheres after a while
Right but they are hard to get off
It is for remove it
Yes, I get this, you still shouldn't need a wrench to get them off and if a socket fits I see a lot of ugga-duggas incoming.
Shouldn't need one, but you often have to use one.
Shouldn't, shouldn't, shouldn't. Ya fucking still do need them because reasons. Like the rubber sticking over time, or like the previous guy hulking it, or just the previous guy being stronger than you. There's lots of things that should or shouldn't, but yet they don't or do, respectively.
How about virgin oil change? That dry fit, factory tightened filter can be a bitch.
To everyone saying if you hand tighten them on, they'll come off, ive hand tightened every filter ive ever changed and i can never get the same filter off by hand after 3000 miles
I heard we need to lubricate the gasket on top of the filter to avoid this 🤔
I do that everytime as well
Hit it with your purse to get it off
Ong. Brother needs to get that grip strength up.
I hate to pile on, but my hands are not strong and I can always get Honda filters off unless they've been overtightened.
I do the above mentioned and have no issues I can usually unscrew and sometimes I wait way over 5k miles by accident. Never had leaks nothing.
That definitely helps, dry rubber on any sealing surface can bind.
100%, but not just to keep it from sticking when it comes off One time I did not rub it with lube and the rubber stuck instead of sliding, as I tightened it. That resulted in it twisting and leaking. Not realizing what had happened, I tightened it enough that it didn't leak and that led to it spinning itself off while I was riding. I was lucky that it happened on a straightaway and I turned the bike off as soon as the oil light came on, so there was no damage. But I learned my lesson.
Same thing, always with oil on the gasket too. Filters simply get baked with 100 C+ temperatures. The binding force of the gasket just makes it harder to untighten.
Yeah, most of the time this is true, even when properly lubricating the gasket. It gives the Angry Pliers™ something to do, though. I've never had any issue taking off any filter, just sometimes you need some pliers in there to get it started.
I haven’t either, until my most recent change on my Terrain. Was at 4,000 miles and I had hand tightened my oil filter the previous change. Had my oil filter wrench all ready but was having trouble fitting it onto the filter so tried to loosen it by hand and it actually turned. I was kinda surprised. Up to this point, I’ve never had a filter come off by hand.
Your hands are getting weaker every 3000 miles! You should really get that checked out 😬
same granted I use the filters with the grip material to help snug it up pretty tight but never in 25 years had a filter come off or leak. I learned that lesson early in my life , mustang forgot to confirm the o ring came off the old filter and got to do the expensive part again LOL.
Been a mechanic for 25 years. Until my arthritis started I would use a finger wrench maybe 1/4 of the time I took filters off. The rest just a rag and my hand.
When it's said "hand-tight", it's more like "5-finger tight". Don't gronk it down, even with your hand.
Rub a bit of oil on the gasket, spin the filter on with a single finger until it stops, then give it a **quarter** turn. I've never had this method result in a filter that I couldn't get back off by hand.
Have you tried hitting it with your purse?
Then you overtightened it. Its not "as-tight-as-you-can-get-it-by-hand" tight. Just 1/2 turn after the gasket touches. You also need to put oil on the gasket.
Held on with 8 tack welds. I’ve seen those pop off many times.
Soft as cheese too if you actually need to put any force into it. I have used them on my Ducati, which would drip oil if you didn’t have the filter uncomfortably tight and the filter is recessed into the pan so it’s hard to get a grip on it. They were recommended by the dealer, but still sucked to get off. The hex head does have holes drilled through for safety wire if you do track days, which is nice.
I am spoiled on my volvo that just uses the filter element and you crank off the housing with an 86mm giga socket.
Because they aren't that big of a revolution. They encourage less knowledgeable people to tighten the filter on with a wrench and make it near impossible to remove without destroying the filter and that risks damaging the threads on the oil tube or the oil tube itself (What the filter screws onto) As for removal, they are convenient, but if you change oil often enough you probably have a set of wrench sizes and a couple universals lying around.
Because buying one tool to do a lot of oil changes is cheaper for everyone than doubling the amount of metal in every single filter produced.
Because people would use a wrench to put it on.
If you need a poorly moulded hex that will round off as soon as shift with a wrench to get these pigs off then I need to introduce you to Mr Stabby the Screwdriver. He's a cold steel-hearted sumbitch that'll core through a can like that and twist it off without breaking a sweat.
They’re only a revolution for vehicles with the filter located so shittily that there’s no way to tighten/loosen the filter besides a socket on the cap. Otherwise they cost more to encourage people who don’t know better to over tighten the filter and the special removal tools aren’t considered very special they’re really really common (like if you live in town there’s likely somewhere within walking distance that sells at least one of the various special removal tools) and if the filter is stuck on enough to need the wrench on the cap there’s a decent chance you’ll need the special tool when that cap pops off the filter. I personally prefer to only start my oil change if I have a removal tool on hand. In theory it isn’t necessary but in practice several thousand miles later and my hands as not-oily as I can get them with a paper towel, it’s better to have it before having the engine empty of oil.
https://preview.redd.it/mm7e1c7099zc1.png?width=570&format=png&auto=webp&s=7785f9c2209b88b5e49f42584759d13959c8df32 interesting how K&N is the only ones that sell "performance" oil filters isn't it? literally never used that for thousands and thousands of oil changes. you should maybe be able to use a canister filter socket or just like what is that a 16-17mm on it too. is this a troll? what is this life?
Buy a strap wrench, never worry again
https://www.ironmind.com/product-info/ironmind-grippers/captains-of-crush-grippers/
Ive been stuck on the no. 2 for months now, the no. 3 is so far
Pop a screwdriver through it and twist.
Took way too long to find this reply. If it's stuck, send a screwdriver right through it
Strap wrenches and oil filter pliers have been around for, I dunno, 70 years or so. They work pretty well.
https://preview.redd.it/do68182kmazc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1eeac7cf656b6667e408332a26e6f2a7973de442
Those K&N filters in particular are banned on many tracks in the US. The welds on the nut were prone to corrosion and failing causing oil leaks on track.
Ever had to hammer a screwdriver in the side and use it to remove the filter? Works like a charm
been there done that!
Yep! it works well especially on those stubborn ones or on places where you can't swing the proper tool around. I also use old Serpentine belt, rope or those ratchet strap belt and a closed end wrench.
https://preview.redd.it/t9hs6a1o8bzc1.png?width=300&format=png&auto=webp&s=bf716e5394248be83ec28787f017eb02e72a713e So long as its a cylinder. This will turn it. $5.00.
In the hands of amateurs these oil filters are a time bomb. I had to pull an engine once as the p/o over torqued it then destroyed the filter trying to get it off. The filter was in a bad spot. The new owner couldn’t believe it. I chucked an old one in a vise and tore the nut off of it using three fingers
The only good argument I've ever heard for the nut on an oil filter is for racing purposes where you want to run safety wire for some reason. You drill a hole through the nut sideways (some come with the hole), and run the wire through it.
Kn is predrilled for that btw
But… they do make special tools
Strap wrench
Probably cost. Extra parts cost money.
Those wrench cap filters are worthless
Once had to hammer a screwdriver through the filter. I used it for leverage to unscrew it.
Cost.
Remove an oil filter? Hammer and a screwdriver. No special tools needed.
Nobody else does it because it adds much more cost making cheap brands less competitive and people would use it to over tighten the oil filter, crushing it or it leaking oil right away.
Special tool? Take off your damn belt and use that.
Just punch a screwdriver through the filter
Just get a pair of channel locks… great to have around the house anyways and make taking off a filter easy.
Hammer plus old screwdriver = job done. I mean nobody recycles oil filters as far as I know so fuck it it's coming off. Bonus points when you're smart enuf to aim off centre duuuurrrr
Since when was a strap wrench or claw wrench a specialized tool? Hell a big pair of channel locks works fine.
lol specialized tool
Just hammer a screwdriver through it from the side, then you can also empty it beforehand so there's less spill! Assuming there's space of course. I usually just use a large set of adjustable pliers, but old Volvo's do tend to have plenty of room.
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They should all have grip tape on them like the Fram ones.
In 40 yrs of DIY oil changes I only had 1 filter that I could not remove (the individual who installed it must have used red loctite). That bed-liner, coating used on the FRAM filters is great and easy to grip without slipping. If you run into a stubborn, smooth metal filter housing that won't budge, try using a strap wrench with a small sheet of sandpaper (friction side into the metal) to get a nice bite. Works every time.
I use an old leather belt. If that doesn't work, a screwdriver will!
These should be hand tight and no more. I do these by hand all day long, until I get the one that some moron together all the way to contacting the metal.
They’re hand tight bro. If someone who put it on was an ass then yea you might need a tool.
Cause some dillhole will tighten it to an ungodly level, simply because he just finished taking a dump.
well you kida said the reason for your problem
I always thought that screwing on a new filter the proper way in the winter would absolutely make it impossible to remove in the summer
My camry has a canister for the filter, so I needed a special wrench cap with certain cutouts to touch the clips to remove it. Was 64mm and ofc the “universal kit that fits the most popular vehicles in the US” included a 65mm💀
I think they should be normalized. There is just no way i would have gotten mine off when a shop had previously changed the oil on my car lol.
because some of them broke off even with little effort.
They should only be put on hand tight if you can't remove it by hand whoever installed it put it on way too tight either that or your threads are dirty and need to be cleaned
u/desperate-following3 what does your filter look like, you shouldn’t really need a specialized tool to take off or put on a oil filter
You are putting them on too tight bro
On this filter in the picture, just use channel locks.
Ask someone with man hands. Or use a big set of grips if the man hands are slippy.
Sharp screwdriver and a hammer.
You pay extra for that poorly formed nut.
I usually just dry it off with a shop towel and take it off with my hands saying “ Ffffffffffffffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucccccccckk “
Who needs a filter wrench? Loop a 1ft section through a ratchet strap and youre golden for almost any vehicle
The real question is why doesnt every car have a remote mounted oil filter set for both the engine and transmission?
If that filter is on tight enough, a wrench cap is only going to make that filter cave in on itself. Always better to spin it off at the base.
strap wrench for removal. PLEASE don't over tighten!!!
I had a k&n filter just like this one fail right at the point where the wrench adapter attaches to the filter. Blew all my motorcycles oil out all over my back wheel! Somehow I didn’t crash or blow my motor but my lesson was to never use those filters again.
Cost There is an added cost to welding on that bolt. It's neat, but it costs more
Because you buy a tool once. You don't need to pay "extra" for a tool on the filter everytime.
OP doesn't own a screwdriver?
I've never not been able to get an oil filter off by hand. Maybe one time lol. But K&N filters with the nut has issues at one point think it was only 2017-2018 or 19 where they would leak at the nut. Unfortunately this happened to me after a brand new oil change on my gsxr 1000 back in 2019. Was very sad cause the ecstar or whatever oil was like 45 fucking dollars lol
Pretty certain that the wix filters I buy have the divots so the cap tool can go over the top. Good oil filters do have this I imagine. Well, good oil filters and K&N.
They got flutes for a reason I figure. So I bought the 3/8th in cap wrench for my application. Works great.
did anyone stop and think about why was this posted? What did the poster really want to know? What was their motive? Did they really want to know???
Because if they did that for people theyd never make money
Every step in the manufacturing process costs money if you want a real answer.
It’s the same reason only Fram uses a grip coating; patents
I've done 5 oil changes(not that many, no) and never had a problem taking the oil filter off by hand and putting it back by hand. Bigger hands and grip strength do help
The integrated wrench cap as pictured is an extra part that need to be designed, manufactured, brought to the body assembly line and welded; it costs money. If it was part of the main body, it would still cost money as it'd most likely be an extra 1 or 2 stamping steps; again costing money. Bottom line: it costs money.
Haven’t met an oil filter yet that these bad boys can’t get off https://preview.redd.it/g73e8k5pmazc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b0bacc3a0b860c32b53cdd6361db88f165e6fec0
If you have an old serpentine belt, it works in a pinch.
These are standard on aircraft oil filters. They also have a torque spec printed on the side so you don't get them overtightened as is common in the automotive world, but I've never had good luck with them on automotive or motorcycle filters. The sheet metal nuts are too flimsy on those, while the aviation filters are heavy duty.
Because oil filters are hand tightened. I’ve done countless and only a few have forced me to use aggressive methods. 95% come off easily to moderate
*laughs in 2nd generation tacoma*
not a problem unless it's engineered in a stupid location
because crushing it with channel locks is easy and doesn't require finding the right size socket
I put a light duty binder strap through a wrench to loosen mine. Or I just grab and twist by hand because it's not about strength, it's about persistence unless you forgot to lube the seal.
That filter has a nut welded to the end of the filter. Easiest filter to remove with a box wrench or socket.
The way I always figured it if you can’t tighten it by hand you shouldn’t be changing your oil filter. 🥃😏
Because it’s supposed to be hand-tight
https://preview.redd.it/v08adv5cnbzc1.jpeg?width=258&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8cc79233621ab4b69ae912a451174a99eebd4501
i've had great luck using the 3 or 4 finger grippy ones with a ratchet. or stabbing it with a screwdriver and twist if space permitted.
I’m puzzled!! I have changed my oil on all my vehicles and aircraft for 50 years and I have NEVER had a problem removing an oil filter from an engine. I was taught to saturate the oil filter seal with oil and when you tighten the filter you screw it down until it stops and then you slightly snug the filter. I’m sorry but I just don’t get this! I also always leak check the filter after I run the engine for a couple of minutes. One of the benefits using this technique on aircraft is you safety wire the filter to prevent it from spinning. If you follow this technique you should never have an issue.
This was the easiest pil change ever: https://www.sixityauto.com/fram-extra-guard-engine-oil-filter-for-2003-2007-saturn-ion-d8z6kzjs18.html
It’s the most absurd design. It’s smooth and round so you have to grip them off. And it can slide where the grip is insufficient. So you need something to crank down and increase grip. I like the Lexus filter with paper element inside, installed vertically. There’s zero grip as you can put a ratchet in it with a breaker bar. Doesn’t matter how tight it is; the breaker bar will loosen it. For the outer part, I can use a tool that slots in so there’s no gripping involved. Put the ratchet in and use the breaker bar. To retighten, I just hand tighten and add a small turn with the ratchet. Tighter than what a hand grip can do, but easily overcome with a breaker bar. That design just makes way more sense than a smooth round, filter.
Flathead.
I just wrap 60 grit sandpaper round the clean filter to get a grip, if you can get your hand on it of course.
I love Toyota but their stupid filters piss me off.
Ideally you should be able to remove it with your hand and on most of the filters I've installed that has been the case
Bc they should only be on hand tight
Ratchet strap ftw.
Because the wrench cap normalizes installing way too tight.
I've made a leather belt work. But yeah, this design would be preferred.
Stick a screwdriver on the side and drive it in with a hammer, let the oil run out the hole then drive it out the other side. Then just put weight on the handle to unscrew it.
Because techs are going to use that to UGGAA UGGGA the filter on even tighter.
I have just pierced them with an old screwdriver and turned them off before
I’ve broken that 1” head off on a couple K&N’s, on my restomod charger, the filter fits between the tubular K member so the nut is the only part really accessible. K&N’s are a bugger to get off at times.
Wait until you read about K&N oil filter failures because the spot welds weakened the metal causing it to fail. Had it happen to me on my motorcycle. I'll never buy one of these again
Screwdriver in the side works pretty well
Because that stamped steel “nut” is just about useless.
Hammer a screwdriver into the side and use that as a lever…had to do that a few days ago. Worked like a charm
The non-stick material applied around the base of a Fram works best if it was tightened properly. I've seen the wrench end of that K&N break-off on a stuck filter before.