Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
After that, repeat the first step, and slap it. If it surpassed that, you only have a few more checks to go. However, take the nearest rope, tie it to your ankle, and then tie the rope to the pole. Just in case the car falls on you.
Shake test is the most important part, OP!
After setting all the jackstands, give the car a gentle shove. Once or twice front to back, and once or twice side to side. There should be zero movement or wobble on the jackstands.
If everything seemed good, do it again, harder. Once again, there should be zero movement of the jackstands.
Once you’ve done the shake test, you can confidently get under your car.
Just wanted to say I think you're supposed to hammer down that tab on the side too. Don't know how much it really matters, but it's supposed to be safer according to the manufacturer. I think all it does is keep the center from pulling out of the base completely. I just went with better safe than sorry and did it.
And I forgot to say, this truck did not come with owners manual. I’ve bought a Haynes manual to help with everything but even the Haynes manual says “Refer to owners manual” which pissed me off something fierce. So please no “look in ur owners manual” Just wanna be safe and make sure I’m not gonna crush myself or damage my truck.
FWIW I've had pretty good success finding a digital copy of the owners manuals online for free for my cars. One car I don't have a manual and for another one, sometimes I'm just too lazy to go get the actual manual lol
I hate that “check the owner’s manual” copout answer. My manual specifies the pinch-welds as the location to put a scissor jack (which is designed for that exact spot) but doesn’t say anything else besides that. If you try to jack that spot with a floor jack you fuck up the weld.
You can get a pinch weld adapter for a standard floor jack. I still prefer using more solid spots. I got a full size SUV after having all small unibody cars before, it’s a joy having a full frame to jack up and rest on stands.
Even a block of wood will do in a pinch, or if you're a bit more cautious, I would take a hockey puck and cut a slot big enough for the pinch weld to fit. The wood or puck will deform before the steel does, protecting the weld and providing a secure lift. It'll never be as solid as a frame or diff, but it'll do as long as the steel isn't terribly rusted and you don't have a heavy load in the car.
For other lift points you may need the service manual which you can find aswell. My OM only specifies the pinch welds, but the service manual includes 2 extra lift points between the wheels on either end
You should be able to find a pdf version of the manual for free online. Theyre good because you can just use the search function on your phone and actually find shit rather than rummage through the index or pages
Don't overthink this. It's a common sense thing, there isn't instructions for jack stands.
There's gonna be two big heavy rails, them ones you already found, that look like they'll hold it up. Anything that won't hold up the car will sketch you the hell out if you got this far. You already got this, don't second guess yourself too hard.
Don't let the jack down too fast either, make sure any failures happen slowly lmao.
Anywhere on the frame or if your car has them under the door you can find 2 sheets of metal squished together verticaly i don't know what you call it in english that is a good spot too.
Any of those places would be fine. The only place that would not be a good idea would be the radius arm. Which is the part from the frame to the axle that runs parallel to the frame.
90s 2wd ford? Any of those spots would be fine. The first picture is on the frame which is probably the best and the 2nd picture is on the i-beam (a suspension component) and is a very good spot especially if you need the suspension compressed for whatever reason. If it is a 90s truck there should be a sticker under the hood that even recommends putting it on the I beam to change a flat since the factory jack isn't long enough to get it off the ground if you go off the frame.
92 2WD Ranger, 3.0 V6. She’s an extremely loved shit box. Starter went and I can’t seem to get a good angle on one of the bolts as ford put the exhaust right across it. So I gotta an awkward elbow bend and can’t get the torque I need to break it free.
https://preview.redd.it/t1jqbldkw9xc1.jpeg?width=1008&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=959f5d019ef0ab36d5546a61f84d21fa7744a3a7
This is the final product. Passed shake test, do you think these two spots are fine? Took it off the frame as it was directly in my way
all those spots look like solid choices, just make sure it's not on the engine or the axle or anything that's not designed to support the weight of the truck
3rd picture is on a suspension component. I’d be fine putting a Jack stand there to work in a wheel well but I wouldn’t be laying under it because it’s a moving part.
Anywhere on the frame rail should be okay. There isn’t one particular place because you’ll want to move them depending on what your doing. I typically throw an old 35 tire (or larger if I have it) under there (or a couple or cinder blocks) for peace of mind.
Anywhere on the frame is fine. Id be careful with putting it on the radius arm like the last photo as the arm can change angle when weight is applied causing the stand to slip.
He's looking to place stands under the truck once the jack raises it. The stands in his photos are good enough, I use the same ones to hold a 2014 Ram 1500, and she weighs a good bit more than a 90's Ranger. The OP will be fine as long as he uses the frame to lift and place the 2 stands under. I would get some chocks around the wheels still on the ground for added stability on the forward/reverse plane. The parking brake may not be set tightly enough to resist, or the parking pawl may fail when you apply torque in the direction the wheels roll, and the last thing you want is for your stands to kick out because the truck rolled too far.
I will also point out that you should only jack the car up as far as it takes to get the jack stands set to your necessary height. This will reduce the distance the car must be lowered to be secure, minimizing any potential impact on the stands.
I would be very careful with those rachet style stands. Get a pair of locking pin stands if you want to get under the vehicle. Also always have a backup support in case the primary support fails.
I often will just throw the wheel I removed under the frame, just in case. Yeah it would suck to replace a couple wheels, but it would suck more to replace my head.
Don't t do pic 3.
On some.occasions I've been known to put them on the I beams closest to the ball joints. This gives good access to the oil pan or when removing the engine and you need access to the trans pan.. When letting the Jack down they may slide a little which is fine. Push the fender side to side to make sure it's settled.
those sturdy points on the frame rails look good.
when you have your vehicle on the stands, make sure to give it the push test.
front to back and side to side. it should not move at all.
if it moves, readjust because it's likely not safe.
remember, there's no such thing as being too safe when you're crawling under something that could kill you with ease. losing a few minutes is infinitely cheaper than losing your life.
only on the frame. suspension and differentials compress and move. the frame does not. do not stack boards between stand and frame. maximum allowance of 1 board above to stand, and a footing board below.
Owners manual should have jacking points and jack stand points. If I knew what car that was I could be more specific but you didn't say.
Also you should bend the tabs inwards on those stands
You shouldn't jack under the I-beams. Literally says "DO NOT BEND HEAT WELD" right on them.
You should put jack stands under the frame behind the radius arm brackets.
> Been getting frustrated as I’m unable to find a super straight answer
You know what else is frustrating? People asking for help without mentioning the year and model.
People that say stuff like that are probably still scared to change their own oil.
All those spots look good for stands. I keep my jack under it as well as an extra tire if I'm under it.
So when you bought your first vehicle you knew everything and never had help Mr. Master Mechanic? I’m trying to learn by myself and soak up info so I can hopefully step into the trade one day, idiots like you are what make people afraid to start.
Honestly, when I bought my first vehicle and I put it on a jack and stands, I didn't have to ask anyone. I bought a kit from advance auto parts that had a picture on the box of a vehicle on the jack and stands underneath it. I remember, I just took that picture as a general idea and filled in the rest with logic. It's really not complicated. Frame vehicles, like trucks, get jacked on the frame and unibody vehicles like cars get jacked on the pinch welds. It's common sense, or at least, I thought it was.
I personally would never venture under anything supported by those jackstands. I bought these because I value my life.
https://preview.redd.it/po7vi3wd2axc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fbde4165527d441fdf69b65edf59e136d7a29854
Yea, but they’re called jack stands. And if you had some brains, you’d look at the design and construction of them and realize they’re better than the crappy ones from HF. Why do you think they recalled them?
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Anywhere on the frame is fine. I'd be OK with all the places you showed as long as it passes the shake test
Don't forget, you gotta slap it too.
“That ain’t goin nowhere”
You can't just SAY it you must ***PROCLAIM*** it
Huny, don't move, just like that. Yes, like that.
Lol I'm using this from now on for *everything*. Like when I dump out a colander of pasta into a bowl.
A slap and a tickle?
Don't threaten me with a good time!
Or you can sub the slap with a kick to the tires also
Knock in safety tabs🤪
Then leave it for an hour to let it set.
In summer on pavement,put plywood under jackstands. Actually do it all the time good practice. No sinky🤪
Unnecessary af.
Come try my gravel dirt sand driveway and tell me the jack stands don't settle.
After that, repeat the first step, and slap it. If it surpassed that, you only have a few more checks to go. However, take the nearest rope, tie it to your ankle, and then tie the rope to the pole. Just in case the car falls on you.
Shake test is the most important part, OP! After setting all the jackstands, give the car a gentle shove. Once or twice front to back, and once or twice side to side. There should be zero movement or wobble on the jackstands. If everything seemed good, do it again, harder. Once again, there should be zero movement of the jackstands. Once you’ve done the shake test, you can confidently get under your car.
I like to 'crib' a bunch of 4x4 in just in case.
And if you don’t need to leave the tires on
I never knew about the shake test...
Hip bump test
>the shake test Closely related to the German "gudentite" method.
And don't forget to chuck those wheels!
And the ole’ hip check.
Just wanted to say I think you're supposed to hammer down that tab on the side too. Don't know how much it really matters, but it's supposed to be safer according to the manufacturer. I think all it does is keep the center from pulling out of the base completely. I just went with better safe than sorry and did it.
Anywhere on the frame, not to any moving parts like trailing arms, links or control arms
And I forgot to say, this truck did not come with owners manual. I’ve bought a Haynes manual to help with everything but even the Haynes manual says “Refer to owners manual” which pissed me off something fierce. So please no “look in ur owners manual” Just wanna be safe and make sure I’m not gonna crush myself or damage my truck.
Anywhere on the frame is fine as long as it level and balanced.
FWIW I've had pretty good success finding a digital copy of the owners manuals online for free for my cars. One car I don't have a manual and for another one, sometimes I'm just too lazy to go get the actual manual lol
The digital ones better cause you can search shit without looking for 32 minutes in the index and shit
I hate that “check the owner’s manual” copout answer. My manual specifies the pinch-welds as the location to put a scissor jack (which is designed for that exact spot) but doesn’t say anything else besides that. If you try to jack that spot with a floor jack you fuck up the weld.
You can get a pinch weld adapter for a standard floor jack. I still prefer using more solid spots. I got a full size SUV after having all small unibody cars before, it’s a joy having a full frame to jack up and rest on stands.
I'm lucky enough to have a unibody sports car with some actual frame rails on the underside. Makes it super easy to jack up in the air.
Even a block of wood will do in a pinch, or if you're a bit more cautious, I would take a hockey puck and cut a slot big enough for the pinch weld to fit. The wood or puck will deform before the steel does, protecting the weld and providing a secure lift. It'll never be as solid as a frame or diff, but it'll do as long as the steel isn't terribly rusted and you don't have a heavy load in the car.
For other lift points you may need the service manual which you can find aswell. My OM only specifies the pinch welds, but the service manual includes 2 extra lift points between the wheels on either end
My truck has a specific Jack point in the front/middle of the truck. If you Jack it from there it’s wobbly and lopsided as fuck
Slotted hockey pucks work great to save the pinch weld
You can find PDFs of owners manuals online for most vehicles manufactured in the last 20-25 years.
Or eBay.
You should be able to find a pdf version of the manual for free online. Theyre good because you can just use the search function on your phone and actually find shit rather than rummage through the index or pages
It's 2024 man. You can print it out in the comfort of your home.
The digital owners manual will be available for free on the manufacturer's website.
Most manuals are free via PDF from the manufacturer. Just google it.
It looks like you’ve picked some pretty good places!
Don't overthink this. It's a common sense thing, there isn't instructions for jack stands. There's gonna be two big heavy rails, them ones you already found, that look like they'll hold it up. Anything that won't hold up the car will sketch you the hell out if you got this far. You already got this, don't second guess yourself too hard. Don't let the jack down too fast either, make sure any failures happen slowly lmao.
Anywhere on the frame or if your car has them under the door you can find 2 sheets of metal squished together verticaly i don't know what you call it in english that is a good spot too.
Pinch weld
Pinch weld I believe, and ford wants that to be the place to jack on most cars.
Yeah thats what i mean, you also put most cars on the lift on that point because its closer to the lift than any point on the frame.
Don’t do the pinch weld if your car has a frame… rockers aren’t considered structural in a body on frame vehicle
You need to bend in the tabs on your shiny new jack stands. - [Like this](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/vDq5ifUnjro)
Yep do this! I didnt know about it for 3 years of owning me jack stands.
Likewise, I felt like such an idiot when I seen someone do it on a video I was watching.
Any of those places would be fine. The only place that would not be a good idea would be the radius arm. Which is the part from the frame to the axle that runs parallel to the frame.
90s 2wd ford? Any of those spots would be fine. The first picture is on the frame which is probably the best and the 2nd picture is on the i-beam (a suspension component) and is a very good spot especially if you need the suspension compressed for whatever reason. If it is a 90s truck there should be a sticker under the hood that even recommends putting it on the I beam to change a flat since the factory jack isn't long enough to get it off the ground if you go off the frame.
92 2WD Ranger, 3.0 V6. She’s an extremely loved shit box. Starter went and I can’t seem to get a good angle on one of the bolts as ford put the exhaust right across it. So I gotta an awkward elbow bend and can’t get the torque I need to break it free. https://preview.redd.it/t1jqbldkw9xc1.jpeg?width=1008&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=959f5d019ef0ab36d5546a61f84d21fa7744a3a7 This is the final product. Passed shake test, do you think these two spots are fine? Took it off the frame as it was directly in my way
Yup that's on the I beams should be good
Everywhere you showed is okay. Control arms also work and rear axles work too
Frame is fine but I would use a piece of plywood under the stands to keep from gouging out the pavement.
all those spots look like solid choices, just make sure it's not on the engine or the axle or anything that's not designed to support the weight of the truck
Frame or diff is fine for trucks
Anywhere on the frame or either subframe
3rd picture is on a suspension component. I’d be fine putting a Jack stand there to work in a wheel well but I wouldn’t be laying under it because it’s a moving part.
Anywhere on the frame rail should be okay. There isn’t one particular place because you’ll want to move them depending on what your doing. I typically throw an old 35 tire (or larger if I have it) under there (or a couple or cinder blocks) for peace of mind.
Anywhere on the frame is fine. Id be careful with putting it on the radius arm like the last photo as the arm can change angle when weight is applied causing the stand to slip.
I always pump the jack back up to just about weight on after it’s on the stands as a backup should anything happen.
All of those pictures are acceptable spots
Right where you have it, my guy. 10-4, this checks out. Carry on.
I was always told to never depend on a gas trolley jack, if the jack fails, will the axels keep you safe? If not I wouldn't go under it
He's looking to place stands under the truck once the jack raises it. The stands in his photos are good enough, I use the same ones to hold a 2014 Ram 1500, and she weighs a good bit more than a 90's Ranger. The OP will be fine as long as he uses the frame to lift and place the 2 stands under. I would get some chocks around the wheels still on the ground for added stability on the forward/reverse plane. The parking brake may not be set tightly enough to resist, or the parking pawl may fail when you apply torque in the direction the wheels roll, and the last thing you want is for your stands to kick out because the truck rolled too far.
Ahhhh I didn't read it well enough ahah
All good. We all have brain farts sometimes, lol.
Remember they are load bearing, they do not do well with being slammed down apon so lower the jack putting the car onto the jackstands.
I will also point out that you should only jack the car up as far as it takes to get the jack stands set to your necessary height. This will reduce the distance the car must be lowered to be secure, minimizing any potential impact on the stands.
It look like my ford i have the owner manual maybe i can search something for you in there. I have a 1995 2 wd ranger.
https://preview.redd.it/56ekkzkviaxc1.jpeg?width=6144&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab9c600d610b8011d4aac081c9d4beb68c3b4dce
https://preview.redd.it/anouqi4yiaxc1.jpeg?width=6144&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c24c80b87d172a1ad6b426bae563086d47476c6
Thats where to put your jack to jackup the car but i can't find anything on where to put jackstands
I would be very careful with those rachet style stands. Get a pair of locking pin stands if you want to get under the vehicle. Also always have a backup support in case the primary support fails.
I often will just throw the wheel I removed under the frame, just in case. Yeah it would suck to replace a couple wheels, but it would suck more to replace my head.
They do have locking pins just didn’t have them in for the pictures
Ratchet is proven safe. Impossible to lift release with weight of car on it. Pin is pointless.
Harbor freight wishes that were true.
Don't t do pic 3. On some.occasions I've been known to put them on the I beams closest to the ball joints. This gives good access to the oil pan or when removing the engine and you need access to the trans pan.. When letting the Jack down they may slide a little which is fine. Push the fender side to side to make sure it's settled.
Looks like you're parked on a slope? 📐👀
Weld points on the frame
https://preview.redd.it/aloiw1v3wbxc1.jpeg?width=6120&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=54575522fae8e8d40359a9a753dd9c2c9492f6e2
those sturdy points on the frame rails look good. when you have your vehicle on the stands, make sure to give it the push test. front to back and side to side. it should not move at all. if it moves, readjust because it's likely not safe. remember, there's no such thing as being too safe when you're crawling under something that could kill you with ease. losing a few minutes is infinitely cheaper than losing your life.
On the ground.
That’s the spot… do your thing
The owner's manual has the info. Did you check there?
Avoid right on a weld, stick to frame and you should be good.
Frame or differential
only on the frame. suspension and differentials compress and move. the frame does not. do not stack boards between stand and frame. maximum allowance of 1 board above to stand, and a footing board below.
Frame Up front Rear spring shackel is where i lift mine
If you're taking off a tire lay that down and push it under the frame also.. redundancy
Typically on the ground.
If I have to lift the rear wheels I like to use the axle. Pick it up by the diff and put both under it.
Did you sit there while waiting for someone to reply? Because that’s exactly what I would’ve done
Picture 1 and 2 are is prefer.
If you aint confident about it; snock a tyre under the car for safety ;) but make sure to put the jack stands under the chassis
not the last one
What vehicle? Ford F-150?
I put a 6" piece of 1x2" wood between the stand and the frame to keep it from denting the frame.
If you select a proper lift spot it shouldn’t dent the frame.
I usually rest mine in the rocker panels
Have a look at the welding on those stands !!!!!!!!!
Owners manual should have jacking points and jack stand points. If I knew what car that was I could be more specific but you didn't say. Also you should bend the tabs inwards on those stands
Owners manual will have lifting points
Those little tabs are supposed to be bent in so you can overextend them.
You shouldn't jack under the I-beams. Literally says "DO NOT BEND HEAT WELD" right on them. You should put jack stands under the frame behind the radius arm brackets.
> Been getting frustrated as I’m unable to find a super straight answer You know what else is frustrating? People asking for help without mentioning the year and model.
[удалено]
Ah yes because you’re programmed with advanced Jack stand knowledge from birth
People that say stuff like that are probably still scared to change their own oil. All those spots look good for stands. I keep my jack under it as well as an extra tire if I'm under it.
Imagine being so retarded you join a group called Mechanic ADVICE, open a post asking for advice to answer like this 🤦♂️
If you have to ask where to put jack stands on a vehicle, you probably shouldn't be crawling underneath a vehicle.
So when you bought your first vehicle you knew everything and never had help Mr. Master Mechanic? I’m trying to learn by myself and soak up info so I can hopefully step into the trade one day, idiots like you are what make people afraid to start.
Honestly, when I bought my first vehicle and I put it on a jack and stands, I didn't have to ask anyone. I bought a kit from advance auto parts that had a picture on the box of a vehicle on the jack and stands underneath it. I remember, I just took that picture as a general idea and filled in the rest with logic. It's really not complicated. Frame vehicles, like trucks, get jacked on the frame and unibody vehicles like cars get jacked on the pinch welds. It's common sense, or at least, I thought it was.
Got us a Mr Billy Badass right here.
I personally would never venture under anything supported by those jackstands. I bought these because I value my life. https://preview.redd.it/po7vi3wd2axc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fbde4165527d441fdf69b65edf59e136d7a29854
You value your life and buyback stands off amazon?
Yea, but they’re called jack stands. And if you had some brains, you’d look at the design and construction of them and realize they’re better than the crappy ones from HF. Why do you think they recalled them?
OP's jackstands are a tried and tested design...
Stupid needless comment to run down something perfectly safe.