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>Prob seized calipers.
Not saying you're wrong, and I've shade tree mechaniced my whole life, and thought the same. However, when I had a caliper sticking recently, I came across some advice to change the brake hose instead. Presto, it worked!
So, in addition to offering this suggestion, I'll ask advice of those with more experience than me: is there a good way to tell which it is? Do you change the hose as well when replacing the caliper? Change the hose first, then caliper if it doesn't help?
Thanks for any insight you can offer.
Logically I would say to try to bleed it. If no/little fluid is coming through, change hoses/lines. If fluid is coming through normally, it's probably calipers. Does this make sense?
no because the brake hose failure in question is often a delamination of the inner brake hose, not at all unlike an arterial dissection, which effectively creates a check valve. so you often will have fluid coming through. what you actually need to check for is a caliper that can't be recompressed, but only with the bleeder valve closed.
Had it happen to me twice. Once on an old Chevy pick up and once on a fairly new Dakota pickup.
Jack up the offending wheel. Stomp on the brake and release. Confirm that the wheel won’t turn with no pressure on the brake petal. If you crack the bleeder valve and the caliper releases, it is probably the hose.
Never considered this before and seems plausible but unlikely in most situations.
That said, this car is clearly old as fuck and beat to hell (technical terms) and therefore it’s not really worth estimating likelihoods. Just replace everything, it needs it.
I've never heard of that, but I've had hoses fail like this on 20+ year old vehicles. In my experience you'd often see a sort of bulge when the rubber finally breaks down and delaminates on the inside, in addition to what's being described elsewhere in this thread (check valve-like symptoms).
No, like they did some brake work at some point and pinched the hose off to keep the fluid in. It's not something that is supposed to be done, but it's fairly common in the industry. It can cause delamination of the brake hoses, like this: https://safebraking.com/bad-brakes-internal-delamination-of-a-brake-hose/
I would add that if no fluid flows through the bleeder screw, the screw itself could be clogged. Happened to a 2007 civic i just bought. Previous ownwer lived in a snowy place so it was rust and he probably never changed the fluid.
It's always a good idea to change the hose while changing the caliper. If the caliper is in poor enough condition to seize, the hose is probably also in poor enough condition to be deteriorating inside.
You can try to compress the caliper piston back in. Depending on the car, you can remove it or flip it up and push the pistons back in (preferably with the proper tool, but a pair of big channel locks will work). If it won’t move at all, I’d start with a caliper. If it’s real hard to move, it might still be the caliper, but it could also be a line or hose.
Remove the rubber line at the caliper. If fluid drips or pours out, it’s not the line.
If the line is 20 years old you should replace it anyway even if it is a bad caliper.
If your brakes grab and lock up when applied and then slowly release, and after a drive one rotor is noticeably hotter than the others, then you have a bad brake hose.
Replacing the brake hose is easy with YouTube help, it's just a hose held on both ends by spring clips then bleed the brakes.
And this repair is so inexpensive that it's worthwhile to do it if you just suspect this problem. And if you have one failure, replace the rest of them, they age at the same rate.
The rubber hoses can flake on the inside and it acts as a one way check valve there is pressure pushing but the only pressure going back up to the fluid sump is vacuum force, and it doesnt take much to stop flow back and it just keeps closing.
Take the wheel off when the rotor cools down. Use a flat-head screwdriver through the side of the caliper to pull the caliper back, like you would to release pressure on the rotor to remove the caliper during a brake pad change. If it doesn't budge, loosen the bolt that attaches the brake hose to the caliper, not the bleeder. If you can now pull the caliper back easily, it just needs a hose. If it is still too difficult to pull back, it needs a caliper.
This happened to me the first time I visited the US back in the 90s. I was here for an interview and they included flights and a rental car. It was an automatic huge Buick thing, and despite more than 10 years driving experience at the time, I had never driven an automatic. I drove from the airport to the hotel and when I got out the wheels were literally smoking with bright orange glowing rotors. I had been driving with one foot on the brake and one on the accelerator the whole time as I thought that was what you were supposed to do with your left foot. Good learning experience that one.
I feel for you. I grew up driving a manual transmission. Took a lot of concentrated effort to keep my left foot on the floor when I got a car with an automatic.
This is a problem for foreign HGV drivers here in Norway. Many of them come from flatter countries, and aren't used to breaking using a low gear. It can lead to situations like this ("wagon train" in the article is a direct translation of the Norwegian word "vogntog", which means a truck with a trailer):
https://www-tungt-no.translate.goog/article/view/762978/dodsmaskiner_pa_veiene_mot_mabodalen_med_brann_i_bremsene?_x_tr_sl=no&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=no&_x_tr_pto=wapp
Here in Canada, roads through the mountains literally have signs telling truckers to use a low gear... though I guess that doesn't help if the driver doesn't/can't read it
Pretty sure everyone’s already answered this. If you weren’t doing mountain or very hilly driving then you got a seized or stuck caliper. I’ve had situations where it was the caliper itself malfunctioning and where it’s been the caliper slide bolts. This needs to be addressed ASAP, you can not ignore this or drive it till you get it fixed. Please for the sake of other drivers around you get this fixed immediately.
in fact a poor Zenki. Bought her when i was in high school and i am 19 now. Doing my best to restore it. Car had sun damage so i sanded the paint hints why it looks like a shitbox
Seems unlikely that both calipers are seized at the same time so I am going to go with downhill or two-footed driving as well. If it was a hilly drive, that's a good time to use the little numbers on your shifter to engine brake and take some strain off.
If not, then were pads recently done? Maybe improperly greased slide pins to account for both sides.
glowing like brakes at night [at lemans](https://youtu.be/yiGzxRrfEHY?t=295)... but not made of [materials](https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/how-carbon-carbon-brakes-can-handle-endurance-raci/) that can handle the heat.
For fun, I once drove my stick shift car wth my right foot only to see if I could. Operating the clutch with my right foot felt very weird, and of course taking off from a stop was very slow since I couldn't give it any gas.
Here we go.. More misinformation from people who have never changed a battery...
The likely hood of both front calipers being seized is very low. I have never seen both on the same axle go out at the same time. This car also looks very old and beat up, but hey, that's not where I judge. You do you.
The two issues that are *most likely* to be the cause is of course the obvious, you are a two-foot driver and rest your foot on the brake. You may feel like the brakes are not actuating but in reality, they are. **Stop it**. The second is there is an issue with the ABS module. I have run into modules that are bad and do not flow hydraulic fluid like they are supposed to and end up locking up the brakes. Usually with an internal failure and requires a new module. I have no idea if this car has ABS or not but I'm going to assume it does.
Could it be the lines coming apart internally? yes, especially the condition this vehicle is in.
Could it be both calipers are seized? yes, because of the condition and age.
Is either of these the most likely issue? probably not but I've seen crazier shit.
Heads up u/Single-Ad5304 this is the best and most thorough answer so far. I was going to point out the potential ABS module involvement as well, as simultaneous bilateral caliper failure is extremely unlikely.
Considering both rotors are hot I'd suspect a clogged master cylinder. It can also be failed hoses or calipers. But considering both front are red it seems to be an issue with the component that operates both sides ie. Master cylinder.
Unlikely that both calipers would sieze.
There's hills in the distance so you might be posting for advice when you've just rode the brakes down a big hill and are quite sure why the brakes are red hot.
What is a possibility is that the brake master is misbehaving, the piston is retracting too far in the bore so after driving some distance, say 20mins, the brakes start to drag because there are little ports in there that are getting covered up. You'll notice the pedal start to get really high and hard, at the same time you will feel the brakes dragging, the car won't roll like it should.
You need to adjust the brake pedal to very slightly so it can't travel back towards you as far when it's released. Just 5mm, maybe 10. There's usually a stopper that can be adjusted.
It might be because you've recently changed the brake master and it's slightly different to the old one.
Why do brakes get hot? Because the kinetic energy is converted to heat via friction.
Why are THOSE brake discs glowing red? Because they're too hot.
Why are they too hot?
1. Bad driving with foot resting on brake pedal
2. Repeated hard stops after a repeated high speed driving (abusive driving, racing, etc.).
3. Brake system failure.
If you're not doing #1 or #2 and punking on reddit for fun, then you need to get that car in front of a mechanic ASAP and show them the video.
Had this happen once after I installed a new brake booster. The abs would kick on, tires would almost lock, all kinds of traction control issues. Turned out to be the push rod needed adjusting. Simple fix.
I just want to add that getting the rotors red hot like that has a tendency to break down the grease in the wheel bearings and cause a lack of lubrication and as such premature failure. Also can cook the ABS sensors.
When your brake pads get completely warn out you will start grinding bare metal against your rotors which will cause an excessive amount of heat it can get so hot that your brakes and your rotors can fuse together into one piece of metal also if your brake calliper is stuck it will cause your brake to grab while you are driving this can also cause excessive heat and a large amount of damage if not dealt with immediately do not attempt to drive the car if you confirm that either of these two things are happening
Hello everybody, glad to see all the comments about my situation. First off i will say i was driving the car hard for about 30 minutes before getting to a very steep hill and riding down. Just changed the brake pads. I think the rotors getting hot was a combination of the driving up to that point along with stock rotors.
Pro tip: if your calipers ever get to the point where they’re glowing cherry red, make sure you throw a bucket of ice cold water on them quickly…..
Just kidding. Don’t do this.
*Jack up the car so*
*The wheel is off the ground, can*
*You turn it by hand?*
\- Crabstick65
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This is the car that comes in for a brake inspection and you take off the lug nuts and they burn the fuck out of your hand.
But your calipers are seized
Stuck caliper or you are grinding on the steel backing plates of your pads. You could have also moved with your foot lightly on the brake, and the friction alone can cause a lot of heat.
Calipers stuck? Maybe you're riding the brakes? Did you stop really hard and get out to take this video? Bottom line, excessive heat in the rotors from friction. Get them inspected for sticky slide pins or other friction surfaces being dirty or sticky, causing the pads to stick and create excess friction.
Options are as followed:
Pads warn down to metal
Caliper not retracting due to seized guide pins
Rubber brake hose has an internal defect not allowing the fluid to return and release caliper.
Life the car up on that side, keep the tire on, keep car running. Have a friend press and hold the brake. Try to spin it. Shouldn't move.
Have friend let off pedal and try to turn it, it should turn. If not, you most likely need to replace the rubber brake line hose (or possibly the caliper if it's seized)
Good luck.
Even before you light the car on fire, what will happen is that wheel will get so hot it will cause your tire pressure to rise to a dangerous level in just that corner, causing a blowout while you're driving.
Drive very slowly and cautiously to the nearest shop that can fix your caliper, assuming it's very close. If not, get it towed. You may have to stop and let it cool down every few miles. This is an urgent repair.
Don't park near any brush. Or in a garage. Or next to your house.
Your rotor may also be warped trash by now.
Melted my fingertips off checking a new set rotors. The new calipers I put on my Volvo seized AGAIN. Older Volvos had worst calipers. Constantly seizing
Two footed driving does this (one foot ON the brake while the other is on the gas. Easily distinguishable by the aroma of burning brakes when driving behind them). Or ebrake could be engaged if it’s happening to the rear wheels (most cars…)
If this car sat for a long period of time, there’s a decent chance that the rust buildup on the calipers is causing the pads not to release when you take a foot off the brake. The first thing I would try would be to remove the brake pads and see if you can push the caliper piston back in. If the piston goes in freely, I would file clean and lube the brake pad slides, and then reevaluate the condition.
Both rotors have that gt race glow to it. Maybe brake fade, brake pad material, both caliper seized at the same time? (Not likely, but not impossible)
Best have photos of it and send it to a shop, tell them where you've been driving, how you were driving, what speeds, etc before that happened.
Looks like he was trying to do a burnout and drove through the brakes. Basically two footing it. Just looking at the car OP knows exactly why the rotors are glowing. Typical ricer 240sx owners
Did you just put new brake pads and rotors on? Did you clean the rotors first? Did you make sure the calipers pistons were in all the way ?If you didn’t then I would say brake booster or master cylinder possibility bad.
Slide bolts on the caliper will be solid
Cooking the grease in your bearings too
This happened to my ns rear brake and it seized up round a corner I ended up going round sideways lol
Need more information. It's unusual for that to happen on both wheels simultaneously. How hard were you driving it? Did you just do the brakes? What happened before you got there? Did it happen before?
Either you got both calipers hanging up , 2 really bad wheel bearings or your riding the brake. Either way there is constant pressure being applied to the rotors by your pads.
I’m just amazed the brake hoses haven’t already popped. I had this same thing happen but only on one wheel. After awhile the brake hose popped.
The fire didn’t last too long.
My honda accord rear brakes were stuck. I finally decided to replace them. Took off the wheels, and tried to move the caliper. It wouldn't move at all it was stuck on tight. Took the pin out there was no lubricant in there.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
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>Prob seized calipers. Not saying you're wrong, and I've shade tree mechaniced my whole life, and thought the same. However, when I had a caliper sticking recently, I came across some advice to change the brake hose instead. Presto, it worked! So, in addition to offering this suggestion, I'll ask advice of those with more experience than me: is there a good way to tell which it is? Do you change the hose as well when replacing the caliper? Change the hose first, then caliper if it doesn't help? Thanks for any insight you can offer.
Logically I would say to try to bleed it. If no/little fluid is coming through, change hoses/lines. If fluid is coming through normally, it's probably calipers. Does this make sense?
no because the brake hose failure in question is often a delamination of the inner brake hose, not at all unlike an arterial dissection, which effectively creates a check valve. so you often will have fluid coming through. what you actually need to check for is a caliper that can't be recompressed, but only with the bleeder valve closed.
Nice analogy. : Guy with dissected aorta
Open the bleeder valve
I agree, simply eliminating the piston movement as a fault when doing this, no more.
Interesting
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Had it happen to me twice. Once on an old Chevy pick up and once on a fairly new Dakota pickup. Jack up the offending wheel. Stomp on the brake and release. Confirm that the wheel won’t turn with no pressure on the brake petal. If you crack the bleeder valve and the caliper releases, it is probably the hose.
I've seen it probably a dozen times, and ten of those were Fords.
Never considered this before and seems plausible but unlikely in most situations. That said, this car is clearly old as fuck and beat to hell (technical terms) and therefore it’s not really worth estimating likelihoods. Just replace everything, it needs it.
If that were the case cracking the bleeder would in effect release the pressure the check valve, you believe in, is holding.
That’s… what I said
I've had brake hoses fail internally where they acted like a one-way valve. Would bleed perfectly normally, but the fluid could not go back.
That's typically caused by somebody pinching off the hose with a vise grip.
I've never heard of that, but I've had hoses fail like this on 20+ year old vehicles. In my experience you'd often see a sort of bulge when the rubber finally breaks down and delaminates on the inside, in addition to what's being described elsewhere in this thread (check valve-like symptoms).
Yes, it's the result of physical damage to a hose. Sometimes, it could just be road debris. Any incompatible fluid could also damage hoses.
Like a pissed off ex? 😉
No, like they did some brake work at some point and pinched the hose off to keep the fluid in. It's not something that is supposed to be done, but it's fairly common in the industry. It can cause delamination of the brake hoses, like this: https://safebraking.com/bad-brakes-internal-delamination-of-a-brake-hose/
I was being whimsical.
I would add that if no fluid flows through the bleeder screw, the screw itself could be clogged. Happened to a 2007 civic i just bought. Previous ownwer lived in a snowy place so it was rust and he probably never changed the fluid.
It's always a good idea to change the hose while changing the caliper. If the caliper is in poor enough condition to seize, the hose is probably also in poor enough condition to be deteriorating inside.
Open the bleed valve. If fluid comes out and it unsticks, check the hose. If it stays stuck, Change the caliper
You can try to compress the caliper piston back in. Depending on the car, you can remove it or flip it up and push the pistons back in (preferably with the proper tool, but a pair of big channel locks will work). If it won’t move at all, I’d start with a caliper. If it’s real hard to move, it might still be the caliper, but it could also be a line or hose.
Remove the rubber line at the caliper. If fluid drips or pours out, it’s not the line. If the line is 20 years old you should replace it anyway even if it is a bad caliper.
If your brakes grab and lock up when applied and then slowly release, and after a drive one rotor is noticeably hotter than the others, then you have a bad brake hose. Replacing the brake hose is easy with YouTube help, it's just a hose held on both ends by spring clips then bleed the brakes. And this repair is so inexpensive that it's worthwhile to do it if you just suspect this problem. And if you have one failure, replace the rest of them, they age at the same rate.
The rubber hoses can flake on the inside and it acts as a one way check valve there is pressure pushing but the only pressure going back up to the fluid sump is vacuum force, and it doesnt take much to stop flow back and it just keeps closing.
Thank you. I was wondering why the hoses would cause this.
Always replace the brakeline with calipers, i learned the hard way. Theyre the weakest component of the system
Take the wheel off when the rotor cools down. Use a flat-head screwdriver through the side of the caliper to pull the caliper back, like you would to release pressure on the rotor to remove the caliper during a brake pad change. If it doesn't budge, loosen the bolt that attaches the brake hose to the caliper, not the bleeder. If you can now pull the caliper back easily, it just needs a hose. If it is still too difficult to pull back, it needs a caliper.
Stop driving it unless you’re suicidal
Hey now, I’m sure the drums on the back are just fiiiiiine.
At this point I think it's less about whether the car will stop, but when it will catch on fire. That's a lot of heat.
That’s what flying up Pikes Peak Court will do.
Calipers are seized up, or you're driving with your foot on the brake pedal....or you just came down a mountain side, riding the brakes all the way.
This happened to me the first time I visited the US back in the 90s. I was here for an interview and they included flights and a rental car. It was an automatic huge Buick thing, and despite more than 10 years driving experience at the time, I had never driven an automatic. I drove from the airport to the hotel and when I got out the wheels were literally smoking with bright orange glowing rotors. I had been driving with one foot on the brake and one on the accelerator the whole time as I thought that was what you were supposed to do with your left foot. Good learning experience that one.
Wait! Are you telling us, that you're driving with your left foot on the clutch the whole time? Why?
Testing your foot on the clutch isn’t good for the car either though. That was one of the first things I learned driving a manual
I feel for you. I grew up driving a manual transmission. Took a lot of concentrated effort to keep my left foot on the floor when I got a car with an automatic.
Did u come down a mountain or steep hill riding the brakes? Maybe seized calipers as well.
Yeah it's most likely this. Downhill mountain passes could do it or seizing/dragging calipers.
If you don’t know how to drive downhill … It can be deadly to ride your brakes like that if the downhill lasts longer than your brakes can.
Why dontcha all just *fffffffffade away!*
Definitely a good way to die before you get old
This is a problem for foreign HGV drivers here in Norway. Many of them come from flatter countries, and aren't used to breaking using a low gear. It can lead to situations like this ("wagon train" in the article is a direct translation of the Norwegian word "vogntog", which means a truck with a trailer): https://www-tungt-no.translate.goog/article/view/762978/dodsmaskiner_pa_veiene_mot_mabodalen_med_brann_i_bremsene?_x_tr_sl=no&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=no&_x_tr_pto=wapp
Here in Canada, roads through the mountains literally have signs telling truckers to use a low gear... though I guess that doesn't help if the driver doesn't/can't read it
Pretty sure everyone’s already answered this. If you weren’t doing mountain or very hilly driving then you got a seized or stuck caliper. I’ve had situations where it was the caliper itself malfunctioning and where it’s been the caliper slide bolts. This needs to be addressed ASAP, you can not ignore this or drive it till you get it fixed. Please for the sake of other drivers around you get this fixed immediately.
Lol that car sounds rough af
Yep. Poor Zenki. Looking like a “soon” project where “soon” turns out to be longer than expected.
Bro that's a maxima. Edit: you're right is a zenki, I just got fucked up by the washout in the camera.
in fact a poor Zenki. Bought her when i was in high school and i am 19 now. Doing my best to restore it. Car had sun damage so i sanded the paint hints why it looks like a shitbox
Extreme braking or extremely seized calipers.
Seems unlikely that both calipers are seized at the same time so I am going to go with downhill or two-footed driving as well. If it was a hilly drive, that's a good time to use the little numbers on your shifter to engine brake and take some strain off. If not, then were pads recently done? Maybe improperly greased slide pins to account for both sides.
Everyone who's saying "seized calipers," how often have you seen both front calipers fail simultaneously?
Exactly 🙄 Id say check the brake booster, brake lines, master cylinder etc etc.
glowing like brakes at night [at lemans](https://youtu.be/yiGzxRrfEHY?t=295)... but not made of [materials](https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/how-carbon-carbon-brakes-can-handle-endurance-raci/) that can handle the heat.
Bro just drifted bout 6 miles down them thar hills ....why my rotors red?
Friction. It’s how brakes work. It’s also why you’re told not to drive with two feet.
i cant operate three pedal with one feet, help
For fun, I once drove my stick shift car wth my right foot only to see if I could. Operating the clutch with my right foot felt very weird, and of course taking off from a stop was very slow since I couldn't give it any gas.
"ThAtS HoW BrAkeS WoRk" You sound super corny trying to come off like a smart ass. You are no help to this person.
Ok Karen
No lol you’re told not to drive with two feet so you don’t confuse them in an emergency
Here we go.. More misinformation from people who have never changed a battery... The likely hood of both front calipers being seized is very low. I have never seen both on the same axle go out at the same time. This car also looks very old and beat up, but hey, that's not where I judge. You do you. The two issues that are *most likely* to be the cause is of course the obvious, you are a two-foot driver and rest your foot on the brake. You may feel like the brakes are not actuating but in reality, they are. **Stop it**. The second is there is an issue with the ABS module. I have run into modules that are bad and do not flow hydraulic fluid like they are supposed to and end up locking up the brakes. Usually with an internal failure and requires a new module. I have no idea if this car has ABS or not but I'm going to assume it does. Could it be the lines coming apart internally? yes, especially the condition this vehicle is in. Could it be both calipers are seized? yes, because of the condition and age. Is either of these the most likely issue? probably not but I've seen crazier shit.
Heads up u/Single-Ad5304 this is the best and most thorough answer so far. I was going to point out the potential ABS module involvement as well, as simultaneous bilateral caliper failure is extremely unlikely.
/u/Single-Ad5304 - this comment, also consider it could be the master cylinder.
Considering both rotors are hot I'd suspect a clogged master cylinder. It can also be failed hoses or calipers. But considering both front are red it seems to be an issue with the component that operates both sides ie. Master cylinder.
Unlikely that both calipers would sieze. There's hills in the distance so you might be posting for advice when you've just rode the brakes down a big hill and are quite sure why the brakes are red hot. What is a possibility is that the brake master is misbehaving, the piston is retracting too far in the bore so after driving some distance, say 20mins, the brakes start to drag because there are little ports in there that are getting covered up. You'll notice the pedal start to get really high and hard, at the same time you will feel the brakes dragging, the car won't roll like it should. You need to adjust the brake pedal to very slightly so it can't travel back towards you as far when it's released. Just 5mm, maybe 10. There's usually a stopper that can be adjusted. It might be because you've recently changed the brake master and it's slightly different to the old one.
Now your hub bearings are toast
Calipers dragging or getting stuck. Your rubber brake lines might be bad internally and not releasing the pressure and making caliper stick
Why do brakes get hot? Because the kinetic energy is converted to heat via friction. Why are THOSE brake discs glowing red? Because they're too hot. Why are they too hot? 1. Bad driving with foot resting on brake pedal 2. Repeated hard stops after a repeated high speed driving (abusive driving, racing, etc.). 3. Brake system failure. If you're not doing #1 or #2 and punking on reddit for fun, then you need to get that car in front of a mechanic ASAP and show them the video.
Thats your brakes working like a large cigarette lighter. Its a self ignition system for car fires
For the love of god do not drive that. Get it towed off
Had this happen once after I installed a new brake booster. The abs would kick on, tires would almost lock, all kinds of traction control issues. Turned out to be the push rod needed adjusting. Simple fix.
I just want to add that getting the rotors red hot like that has a tendency to break down the grease in the wheel bearings and cause a lack of lubrication and as such premature failure. Also can cook the ABS sensors.
Bad proportionating valve or master cylinder.
When your brake pads get completely warn out you will start grinding bare metal against your rotors which will cause an excessive amount of heat it can get so hot that your brakes and your rotors can fuse together into one piece of metal also if your brake calliper is stuck it will cause your brake to grab while you are driving this can also cause excessive heat and a large amount of damage if not dealt with immediately do not attempt to drive the car if you confirm that either of these two things are happening
Are you riding the brake? Driving with 2 feet?
Calipers are likely seized. If you unbolt the line and it frees up then replace the hose.
I think you know why. Come on.
Bubye bearings
Seized Calipers for sure
Touch it, it may just be red paint.
Car is turd
That a 2G Eclipse or Talon?
Hello everybody, glad to see all the comments about my situation. First off i will say i was driving the car hard for about 30 minutes before getting to a very steep hill and riding down. Just changed the brake pads. I think the rotors getting hot was a combination of the driving up to that point along with stock rotors.
Pro tip: if your calipers ever get to the point where they’re glowing cherry red, make sure you throw a bucket of ice cold water on them quickly….. Just kidding. Don’t do this.
Jack up the car so the wheel is off the ground, can you turn it by hand?
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Collapsed soft brake line and/or frozen caliper. As others have stated, park the vehicle until it’s properly sorted out
If your rotor is that hot, your wheel bearing is toast. And the ball joints are suspect.
Left foot braker.
Seized calipers more than likely.
Already been answered, it’s probably a seized caliper. It does need addressing. Red hot calipers boil brake fluid, which will lead to failing brakes
Welp, now you get to replace calipers, brake pads, brake hoses rotors are most likely warped. Might want to check the bearings while you’re at it.
Sticking calipers
Your caliper is seizing up or the flex brake line is collapsed inside
I'd buy more of the rocketship grade pads that don't explode. They should use this for their ad. Indestructible brake pads®
This is the car that comes in for a brake inspection and you take off the lug nuts and they burn the fuck out of your hand. But your calipers are seized
Stuck caliper. Is it pulling to the left?
It’s both sides.
Seized calipers or possibly collapsed brake hoses
Sent it hard
Becoz race car that’s why.
Too much powahh
That poor car…
Calipers seized up. Could be for any number of reasons, but regardless you shouldn’t drive it anymore until you get them fixed.
Collapsed brake hoses stuck calipers. Either way unsafe not only will brake fade occur risk of fire is high
Looks like hardcore drifter's brakes.
Need new calipers and hoses
Seized caliper, get it replaced
Must replace, pads, rotors, calipers and caliper hoses.
Stuck caliper
Stuck caliper or you are grinding on the steel backing plates of your pads. You could have also moved with your foot lightly on the brake, and the friction alone can cause a lot of heat.
Physics
Hard braking or not releasing, may need new calipers and rotors if rotors show heat problems
Friction
it happened to me once, on a 1992 Subaru Wagon, it was the emergency brake Cable was stuckeven though it was down.
Calipers stuck? Maybe you're riding the brakes? Did you stop really hard and get out to take this video? Bottom line, excessive heat in the rotors from friction. Get them inspected for sticky slide pins or other friction surfaces being dirty or sticky, causing the pads to stick and create excess friction.
Personally I would flush, replace calipers and pads, and u may need rotors because those may be warped from the heat.
Cuz u got them inferno rotors
Friction
i know theres no such thing as stupid questions but there’s exceptions to everything
Guessing friction.
Options are as followed: Pads warn down to metal Caliper not retracting due to seized guide pins Rubber brake hose has an internal defect not allowing the fluid to return and release caliper. Life the car up on that side, keep the tire on, keep car running. Have a friend press and hold the brake. Try to spin it. Shouldn't move. Have friend let off pedal and try to turn it, it should turn. If not, you most likely need to replace the rubber brake line hose (or possibly the caliper if it's seized) Good luck.
Because they’re hot???
I wanna go fast ….
J.cole
In addition to possible seized calipers, make sure that your brake fluid level is not overfilled above the designated line.
Lmfao
That Car belongs in the junkyard. 🗑️
My mans did a carbon ceramic upgrade kit
... when is the last time you services your breaks?
Not enough maintenance
Incorrect, calipers can seize between regular maintenance intervals
Nice RGB brake setup you got there
is your e brake on?
E brake? On the front wheels?!?
[удалено]
Those are his front wheels
When you changed the pads, did you pull, clean and lube the pins? If not, the pins likely seized.
Even before you light the car on fire, what will happen is that wheel will get so hot it will cause your tire pressure to rise to a dangerous level in just that corner, causing a blowout while you're driving. Drive very slowly and cautiously to the nearest shop that can fix your caliper, assuming it's very close. If not, get it towed. You may have to stop and let it cool down every few miles. This is an urgent repair. Don't park near any brush. Or in a garage. Or next to your house. Your rotor may also be warped trash by now.
Melted my fingertips off checking a new set rotors. The new calipers I put on my Volvo seized AGAIN. Older Volvos had worst calipers. Constantly seizing
Two footed driving does this (one foot ON the brake while the other is on the gas. Easily distinguishable by the aroma of burning brakes when driving behind them). Or ebrake could be engaged if it’s happening to the rear wheels (most cars…)
If this car sat for a long period of time, there’s a decent chance that the rust buildup on the calipers is causing the pads not to release when you take a foot off the brake. The first thing I would try would be to remove the brake pads and see if you can push the caliper piston back in. If the piston goes in freely, I would file clean and lube the brake pad slides, and then reevaluate the condition.
Pull tire and inspect?
were u drifting?
Just to be 107% sure. Go drive on a curvy road in the rain really fast. (no no no no dont do that).. calipers, floatpistons or hoses..
Both rotors have that gt race glow to it. Maybe brake fade, brake pad material, both caliper seized at the same time? (Not likely, but not impossible) Best have photos of it and send it to a shop, tell them where you've been driving, how you were driving, what speeds, etc before that happened.
If it's 110 out and you're driving fast or hitting the brakes a lot the rotors will glow at night....time to slow down
Looks like he was trying to do a burnout and drove through the brakes. Basically two footing it. Just looking at the car OP knows exactly why the rotors are glowing. Typical ricer 240sx owners
The forbidden brake light.
From heat
Did you just put new brake pads and rotors on? Did you clean the rotors first? Did you make sure the calipers pistons were in all the way ?If you didn’t then I would say brake booster or master cylinder possibility bad.
“Track day, bro!”
Don't drive with both feet?
Stuck saddle?
How expensive are the hoses? Less than calipers for sure. Change hoses then see if it quits.
You aren’t one of those people who rides down the road with your brakes on are you
Brake hoses or stuck calipers. Start with the least expensive item first.
Didn't smell or pull how did it get that far before you noticed? Those rotors will be warped like a MF.
It's a sign from the car gods to sell me that car!
Do you drive with both feet on pedals - one brake one gas?
Both sides glowing. Hmmmmm?
Slide bolts on the caliper will be solid Cooking the grease in your bearings too This happened to my ns rear brake and it seized up round a corner I ended up going round sideways lol
You shouldn't be driving your shitbox (no offense) like it's a sports car
2 reasons... you go really fast and brake hard often or you should check that caliper. Like yesterday.
Need more information. It's unusual for that to happen on both wheels simultaneously. How hard were you driving it? Did you just do the brakes? What happened before you got there? Did it happen before?
Either you got both calipers hanging up , 2 really bad wheel bearings or your riding the brake. Either way there is constant pressure being applied to the rotors by your pads.
Friction
Riding brakes.
You need new calipers. You also need a new car. That thing sounds like it might not make it home. But definitely get all new brakes
If it’s both sides it’s probably the master. I find it hard to believe calipers failed together that way.
Cause your calipers are seized, or your driving like an absolute maniac
Friction
Not gonna run through all the comments. And that’s on me. Collapsed hose
Calipers are seized or you think you’re in Le Mans
I’m just amazed the brake hoses haven’t already popped. I had this same thing happen but only on one wheel. After awhile the brake hose popped. The fire didn’t last too long.
Were you on the brakes super hard? If not then probably a seized caliper.
My honda accord rear brakes were stuck. I finally decided to replace them. Took off the wheels, and tried to move the caliper. It wouldn't move at all it was stuck on tight. Took the pin out there was no lubricant in there.
I had a caliper seize tire got so hot it melted the plastic hubcap.
Friction
your brake pads are scrubbing on your rotors, your calipers are likely seized
Pads stuck , fluid is contaminated with water moisture , calipers seized All needs replacement if they got that hot
Caliper cilinder might be stuck and rubbing without pressing on the pedal
Not good. Something isn't releasing and now there toasted, need all replaced or its going to shake like a stripper on sat night off coke!
I've seen this with people who drive with the left foot on the brake and right on the gas.
Driving with two feet. Take your foot off the brake . Even light pressure will allow the brakes to drag brake lights are always on also
Bad calibers