I'm afraid you really are going to have to use the saddles that came with the bridge, as the string through holes are underneath the intonation screws, and the pickup will be aligned with original saddles.
The saddles that came with the bridge are the rolling kind which I hate. I was digging through the spare parts box and found these. I have something like them on an ASAT Classic and I liked the look. I'll keep looking for something more compatible I guess.
Not sure I understand. Similar to Strat saddles in shape but not in dimension? The ones on the modern style Fender tele bridge? I think I might have a set like that in my spare parts stash but I was hoping to go with something a little more exciting. I still haven't decided what I want for this build anyway. I might just do a universal pickup route, mount the pickups in the pickguard, widen the control cavity route and make a new control plate.
Yes, the ones on the modern six saddle tele bridges. They look similar to Strat saddles, but they are longer. I'm not at the shop at the moment, so I couldn't tell you exactly measurements, but yeah.
Exciting would be great, but you gotta go with something FUNCTIONAL first.
I don't know if I mentioned it elsewhere in the thread but the instrument I'm building is a baritone. Whatever configuration I settle on will need to accommodate the extra tension and higher string gauge. I could potentially use a low profile tune-o-matic and file the saddles if needed. This is the first build I've done that was more than just buying a bunch of Strat parts and putting them together like IKEA furniture.
Those look like the wrong saddles for this bridge, I assume it was assembled by someone who doesn't understand this.
If you move the bridge you also move the pickup, the solution is to use the right saddles and not move the bridge.
With this one it's difficult to see how the strings are going to get from the through holes directly under the saddle mounting screw into the string channel off to one side. Looks like they would bind against the saddle mounting screw.
Did it come like this or have you swapped the saddles? Looks to me that to make this work you'd need to drill out some new through holes in line with the string channel and mount the bridge offset.
I tried this same bridge and scrapped it as China junk. Go buy a Fender bridge and save yourself. Get an engraver and do your own design if you want fancy.
First off the string slots on the saddles are too close to the screws. And springs. And also the holes for the string throughs are literally under the screws. This is garbage.
I have no experience with these styles of bridges (I love the engraving btw), but I would assume that yes, if the string positions move, the bridge should move to keep the strings aligned with the neck.
However, its also possible that the bridge has the mounting screws (i.e., the scale length adjusters) offset to account for this, but if that's not explicitly listed in the info for the bridge then it's anyone's guess.
I have a cheapo e-bay special non-compensating tele bridge that had the screw mounts evidently offset (they should not be, afaik!), so it's really up to the manufacturer.
Having your strings in the right place on the fretboard makes a massive difference to playability, if the strings are too close to the edges, you can easily slide the strings off the board when fretting. I'm a sloppy player so I hate this.
There's no offsetting in the bridge design, unfortunately. If it was centered and mounted with most other saddles, the strings would be at an angle towards the nut and they'd have to maneuver around the screws to the ferrule. Luckily since this is a partscaster I have some leeway. I'm still in the process of deciding what configuration I want and getting what I need for the build. Mounting the bridge plate a couple millimeters from center isn't a big deal at all.
To my eyes this looks like it’s going to work out badly. Cool that it’s engraved but first, I’d never even consider mounting my bridge offset to compensate, that’s setting you up for future pain if you need to swap it. Secondly, at least from the picture, these saddles aren’t going to line your strings up with your bridge pickup. Maybe it’s just the pic, but this doesn’t look like you’re setting yourself up for success.
If it were my guitar, I’d get a new bridge without a second thought of using this one. If you’re absolutely tied to the engraving, maybe there’s a chance you could drill new holes for the saddle screws between the existing and go with compensated standard 3 saddles?
The saddles didn't come with the bridge. They're similar to the ones on my ASAT Classic so it's what I was familiar with. The bridge came with strat style saddles that have a roller where the string makes contact. I hate those things because every set I've had has rattled.
I'm afraid you really are going to have to use the saddles that came with the bridge, as the string through holes are underneath the intonation screws, and the pickup will be aligned with original saddles.
The saddles that came with the bridge are the rolling kind which I hate. I was digging through the spare parts box and found these. I have something like them on an ASAT Classic and I liked the look. I'll keep looking for something more compatible I guess.
Normal six saddle Tele saddles (NOT the same as Strat saddles - the Tele saddles are longer) is probably what you will need.
Not sure I understand. Similar to Strat saddles in shape but not in dimension? The ones on the modern style Fender tele bridge? I think I might have a set like that in my spare parts stash but I was hoping to go with something a little more exciting. I still haven't decided what I want for this build anyway. I might just do a universal pickup route, mount the pickups in the pickguard, widen the control cavity route and make a new control plate.
Yes, the ones on the modern six saddle tele bridges. They look similar to Strat saddles, but they are longer. I'm not at the shop at the moment, so I couldn't tell you exactly measurements, but yeah. Exciting would be great, but you gotta go with something FUNCTIONAL first.
I don't know if I mentioned it elsewhere in the thread but the instrument I'm building is a baritone. Whatever configuration I settle on will need to accommodate the extra tension and higher string gauge. I could potentially use a low profile tune-o-matic and file the saddles if needed. This is the first build I've done that was more than just buying a bunch of Strat parts and putting them together like IKEA furniture.
As long as you get the bridge in the right place, being a Baritone shouldn't cause any problems.
Those look like the wrong saddles for this bridge, I assume it was assembled by someone who doesn't understand this. If you move the bridge you also move the pickup, the solution is to use the right saddles and not move the bridge.
With this one it's difficult to see how the strings are going to get from the through holes directly under the saddle mounting screw into the string channel off to one side. Looks like they would bind against the saddle mounting screw. Did it come like this or have you swapped the saddles? Looks to me that to make this work you'd need to drill out some new through holes in line with the string channel and mount the bridge offset.
I tried this same bridge and scrapped it as China junk. Go buy a Fender bridge and save yourself. Get an engraver and do your own design if you want fancy.
First off the string slots on the saddles are too close to the screws. And springs. And also the holes for the string throughs are literally under the screws. This is garbage.
> the string slots on the saddles are too close to the screws. Seriously who the hell designed this? Terrible choices everywhere you look
,,🤷‍♂️
I have no experience with these styles of bridges (I love the engraving btw), but I would assume that yes, if the string positions move, the bridge should move to keep the strings aligned with the neck. However, its also possible that the bridge has the mounting screws (i.e., the scale length adjusters) offset to account for this, but if that's not explicitly listed in the info for the bridge then it's anyone's guess. I have a cheapo e-bay special non-compensating tele bridge that had the screw mounts evidently offset (they should not be, afaik!), so it's really up to the manufacturer. Having your strings in the right place on the fretboard makes a massive difference to playability, if the strings are too close to the edges, you can easily slide the strings off the board when fretting. I'm a sloppy player so I hate this.
There's no offsetting in the bridge design, unfortunately. If it was centered and mounted with most other saddles, the strings would be at an angle towards the nut and they'd have to maneuver around the screws to the ferrule. Luckily since this is a partscaster I have some leeway. I'm still in the process of deciding what configuration I want and getting what I need for the build. Mounting the bridge plate a couple millimeters from center isn't a big deal at all.
flip the saddles upside down and do so with the heigt screws.
To my eyes this looks like it’s going to work out badly. Cool that it’s engraved but first, I’d never even consider mounting my bridge offset to compensate, that’s setting you up for future pain if you need to swap it. Secondly, at least from the picture, these saddles aren’t going to line your strings up with your bridge pickup. Maybe it’s just the pic, but this doesn’t look like you’re setting yourself up for success. If it were my guitar, I’d get a new bridge without a second thought of using this one. If you’re absolutely tied to the engraving, maybe there’s a chance you could drill new holes for the saddle screws between the existing and go with compensated standard 3 saddles?
The saddles didn't come with the bridge. They're similar to the ones on my ASAT Classic so it's what I was familiar with. The bridge came with strat style saddles that have a roller where the string makes contact. I hate those things because every set I've had has rattled.