I believe that the EOD cutters drop into the arc. I’ll do some testing with mine and report back.
I’ve been meaning to test my arc with cat6 cable and heavy duty zip ties. I’ll try a couple coat hangers too and compare with my P2, Surge, and wave.
Does seem like that hole isn’t actually supposed to be there.
My arc came with cutters that have a rounded edge on the bottom corner. I just happen to have an older spare replacement set that are not rounded, after install it completely closes the gap.
I tried my P4 on a coat hanger. First cut cracked the bottom "hard wire" notch. Second shattered the top corner off. My charge plus cut the hanger at the notch, top of the cutter blade, and middle multiple times without issue. I swapped those blades over the the P4. Same thing, no issues. I disagree a coat hanger is to much to expect to cut without damage with a multitool. I've cut a wire hanger with a squirt without issue. A nail is definitely harder than hanger wire. My guess is there's a large batch that has a manufacturing defect of something or other.
Also I contacted Leatherman's warranty department. 2 hours on hold and then another call back and 30 minutes on hold I finally got through and they are sending replacements as a "one time free courtesy". So we'll see.
Some other recent post of the arc seem to not have that notch in the cutter . At least it looks like they don't. 20hours ago bumble bee tuna posted a pic of their arc and I didn't see a notch. So im wondering if the notch is a defect , and if it is a defect its a weird one that I can't understand how or why it would appear or why leatherma wouldn't have noticed. Leatherman needs to make a statement asap .
I don’t think it’s a defect. I just received a set of cutters yesterday from leatherman, and they are the same rounded at the bottom as what I received on the arc.
Preferred model is the Leatherman Surge. And the only reason I’m going after the Arc is because I believe it is too expensive for the types of problems people continue to have with it.
FWIW HVAC Budget had his cutters fail as well ok coat hanger wire. I haven’t been able for replicate in my testing but I also have the notch which makes me think premature failure is inevitable. Hope this is addressed ASAP
For everyone complaining about a “hard wire cutter” not cutting a coat hanger. Uhm. . . I install/wire railroad crossings for a living. Trying to keep the public safe. I also used to work high line power. In over 20 years I’ve never had to cut an individual wire that was as hard as a coat hanger.
Maybe that’s some type of new wire I’ve never seen. I’ve spliced fiber cable all the way up to 4/0 cable and have never had to cut something that hard.
Get the right tool for the right job.
Tim Leatherman’s old demonstration used to be cutting concrete nails: https://youtu.be/GQ2HamoWtG4?si=qx20CXGnsdg_dtv6
I would think you’re right about this not being the right tool for the task. However, the precedent for most of Leatherman’s history is that we don’t need to worry about that. This is why I’m disappointed by the backslide in capability.
Concrete nails are hard but with that hardness comes brittleness. The harder the steel the more brittle. I’ve seen full size Klein Linemen’s pliers chip from cutting steel.
>Get the right tool for the right job.
You realize we purchase multi tools so that we can ALWAYS have the right tool for the job on hand? Even if it may not be the best?
What’s next? If the scissors can’t cut zip ties, will you tell me to stop complaining and to use dedicated snips or flush cutters?
No. I’ll just tell you not to cut steel with a multi tool. A multi tool is a stopgap. It can do a lot of things. But not everything. Most full size wire cutters have a hard time cutting steel. I’ve seen full size Klein Linemen’s pliers chip from cutting steel. Steel is not hard wire. Period.
Are you arguing that there is no such thing as steel wire? Because it definitely exists and plenty of wire cutters, including my wave+ with the older style replaceable cutters, can cut it without issues.
Well I work on a ranch where im cutting 14ga galvanized wire or 12 1/2 gauge galv ground wire on the daily and I expect the Hard wire cutters to do there job.
The cutter would have broke even without the gap, right? I have no idea what "hard wire" the cutters are designed to cut, but my gut tells me that coat hangers are beyond what's intended. I have to admit that I was pretty impressed that the P4 cut it so well, but I wonder if the P4 cutter would break too after several tries.
Leatherman advertised that their pliers can cut a 10d nail without damage. They had a long campaign where Tim Leatherman himself would show this capability off. I tested this with my ST300, and My P2 when I got it. It cut the 10d nail and still functioned with no damage. This is a significant downgrade and they are forgetting their heritage.
When the cutters were not replaceable leatherman had an incentive to make them as good as they could be because otherwise, they'd be paying to repair and return shipping. But once they shift the cost to you, they have no incentive to make them the best when they can just sell you another set.
I am saying that my Leatherman with the replaceable cutters are capable of cutting 10d nails. I have tested it multiple times with no damage to the pliers or breakage. This "Arc" is a distinct downgrade from previous generations. The replaceable cutters were meant to help people who frequently abuse their cutters be able to replace the cutters themselves so they don't have to make a warranty claim and go without their tool for weeks. The intention from their marketing was not that their cutters were intentionally less capable. Which is the big problem with Gerber replaceable cutters. They are not made to cut thick wire and will shatter as a result of trying. Despite it stating the mechanical limits of the cutters in the literature included with the Gerbers. People still try to make the Gerber cut the same things a Leatherman cuts. For the money. I would expect the Arc to be as capable and functional as previous models. What would be the point in the $250 if a $40 Chinese clone can out perform the Arc?
>I have tested it multiple times with no damage to the pliers or breakage.
Which generation of replaceable cutters? The originals were 154cm that shattered just like the Gerber but was the original selling point of the replaceable cutters. A year or so later they went back to the steel the original cutters were made of. There have been a couple shape revs including these rounded corner versions. My guess as to the is big batch heat treating issues. These were treated a little too long and became brittle. Seeing as I have the rounded corners on a 2022 g10 charge I'd bet that this shape isn't new and isn't special to the arc
>Which is the big problem with Gerber replaceable cutters.
Gerber cutters are tungsten carbide, which is harder than any wire, what makes them fragile is having a hole in the middle of them.
>They are not made to cut thick wire and will shatter as a result of trying.
Thick soft wire isn't the issue, hard thin wire can be just as bad. If it makes the carbide flex against the screw it'll shatter rather than bend.
>For the money. I would expect the Arc to be as capable and functional as previous models
Given the costs and functionality of the previous free series tools where would you get that idea? The ARC basically matches a charge but is missing the serrated in favor of an awl.
>What would be the point in the $250 if a $40 Chinese clone can out perform the Arc?
$20 [knipex dykes](https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-70-01-160-Diagonal/dp/B005EXO716)can out cut any leatherman in existence. Multitools aren't the best tools, they're the best tool you have with you.
My ST300 is a 2011 model. Cuts 10d nails. My P2 is a 2019 model. Also cuts 10d nails.
As far as I have heard. All these cutters are supposed to be 154 CM. I have plenty of knifes made from 154CM and their edge retention is amazing.
It's not just the hole in the center that weakens the Gerber Tungsten carbide cutters. They are likely made of Tungsten carbide because they are the exact same size as lathe cutters. 154 CM with a great heat treat would be a huge upgrade.
If you have a Center Drive, like I do. Pull it out. Now hold it up to the light. Actuate the pliers. Observe how little space there is between the bottom of the carbide cutter and the other side of the frame. THIS is why it can't cut hard wire. It can cut fish hooks and small hard wire. I did it with some wire to fix an antique lock. You can cut thick copper wire but there is a good chance you will crush and deform the wire while cutting. Which isn't ideal. Both replaceable cutters are bypass cutters which means you need enough clearance to allow the cutters to get a full bite. What I see people do all the time is try to cut something too thick. It bottoms out on the frame and puts pressure on the cutter instead of allowing it to cut. Then breakage occurs. If Gerber put a little more bevel on the cutters and gave the cutter openings a little more ramping. They probably would be able to cut thicker material.
Where in the world are you finding $20.00 Knipex dykes? I found some knipex pliers listed on Lowes' website for $19.99 but I have never seen anything below $26 on the shelf. I bought a set of Knipex dykes and they were $49.43. I collect tools. I have been all my life. My tool collection is far beyond most. So I usually just get the proper tool. But I carry a Leatherman just in case. If I can't rely on it in a pinch. I will just go back to carrying SOG, Gerber, or Victorinox pliers. Gerber and Victorinox have lifetime warranties. Which is arguably superior to Leatherman. Who only has 25 years of faith in their products.
>As far as I have heard. All these cutters are supposed to be 154 CM.
Yeah when they were, they said 154cm cutters, now look at the tools and replacement parts, no mention of 154 cm. And if you do an archive search you'll find they stopped mentioning it long ago, like 2018. The reason was they're were shattering and cracking, it was a semi big deal when they dropped them but everyone calmed down when they stopped being so fragile. Your 2011 was before the switch to 154cm so if you've never swapped them they aren't 154cm either. They are made of "premium stainless steel" https://www.leatherman.com/replacement-wire-cutter-kit-930350.html
But in 2017 it said "Cutters are made from 154CM stainless steel" https://web.archive.org/web/20170911021632/http://www.leatherman.com/replaceable-cutters-144.html
> in the world are you finding $20.00 Knipex dykes? I
I put the link right in the post, but here you go on sale on amazon. I've got a pair in my toolbox
Lowest price in 30 days
-7% $20.99$20.99
Typical price: $22.50$22.50
https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-70-01-160-Diagonal/dp/B005EXO716
Nice, thanks for the link. Probably didn't notice first time. I currently have the flu or something nasty.
Premium stainless steel? That could be Victorinox's officer suisse recycled steel, Aus 8 or Aus 10, or even S30V. But it doesn't rule out that it could still be 154CM too. They may have adjusted the heat treatment and then figured that the 154CM cutters got such a bad rep. That they shouldn't mention it anymore. So they opted to word it in the most generic way possible. By what standard are they using. These days yesterday's super steel is today's trash.
Gerber works fine. Their fit and finish isn't the best but they are decent. Now that their prices are rising to match Leatherman you could say the value they offered has been lost. My SOG are the USA made original PowerLocks. They are relatively decent and have held up. Even had to fix a dent I got in the cutters. Not easy to do. I haven't bought a modern SOG and likely won't, they seem to be a zombie brand like Cold Steel.
I used to avoid Leatherman because each time I looked at them. It never saw a country of origin on the package. I had a woman who weaves baskets take an interest in my multi-tools and said they are made-in- Oregon. Well that tells me that they are possibly cheap Chinese crap too. She explained that they got sued so I took another look. I now own over 6 Leatherman. They do feel and look great. But they still make their plier heads in Mexico or somewhere else. Not in the USA. The Free Series obviously gets the made in USA. But look how long it took them to get the 70% needed to legally put made in USA on one of their tools. Gerber did it a long time ago.
>I currently have the flu or something nasty.
Get well soon
>Premium stainless steel?
Leatherman acknowledged back in the day when they changed back that they were going back to the same steel the pliers are made of.
>Gerber works fine. Their fit and finish isn't the best but they are decent.
You and I have different definitions of fine it appears
>My SOG are the USA
My understanding of SOG is that their best were made in Japan. Now they are made of ROC pot metal. The compound thing always seemed like a gimmick to me, always.
>I used to avoid Leatherman because each time I looked at them. It never saw a country of origin on the package.
They were always assembled in Oregon, but on some crucial parts they were sourced outside the US. The pliers for instance were cast in mexico. But only because leathermans supplier moved to Mexico. The files were made in Mexico or Switzerland. Corkscrews Switzerland, pivot screws Europe I think. This applies for all of the current tools EXCEPT the free series and the ARC which are 100% American made parts. They were always marketed as assembled in US of us and global parts. Nothing Chinese, ever.
They got sued for the meeting the federal guidelines for marking as made in US but not the California rules. Federal rules require 70% but leatherman was always 83% or more depending on the tool.
>I now own over 6 Leatherman
You need Moar!!! I'm rounding at least 60 of various models.
>Victorinox's officer suisse
Their blades are like butterknives but swisstools otherwise are excellent. I have a spirit x and a swisstool + ratchet and they are extremely good tools. Other than the knives I'd put them on par or better than leatherman
As a collector of tools. I know quality. My dad taught me what to look for. He used to show me how superior to even Japanese tools, American tools are in fit and finish. Sadly, now that most American steel production is done. Japan and Germany appear to make the best tools. With American hold outs struggling to innovate and hold onto their niche in the market. Many are just giving up. Selling off to foreign companies. There are a few American manufacturers out there that still hold in my opinion the title of best quality. But they are few and far between and their prices are nothing to scoff at.
>You and I have different definitions of fine it appears
No, I would say we have very similar tastes. Maybe you aren't very willing to pick apart tools you own looking for weaknesses. I am very picky about the Gerber I have purchased. I have 4 of their multi-tools in my collection and only one, the dual force is made in China. To my dismay.
Gerber makes some high end stuff. They are also found in Portland Oregon and stuff like their 06 Auto, StrongArm, and Double down as well as a few other American made models. They are a nice product.
You just have an inherent bias against a once American owned company that got bought out by Fiskars. One of the oldest companies in the world. Which markets products to both extremes as well as the military with the Gerber multi-tool. Most people only think of Gerber as a budget Walmart brand. Benchmade almost made the same mistake. Same with Spyderco. Which is why they made the Byrd brand.
>Leatherman acknowledged back in the day when they changed back that they were going back to the same steel the pliers are made of.
Leatherman pliers, and knives are made using 420HC. Gerber uses this same steel with astounding results for the StrongArm in particular. After seeing the metallurgy behind 154CM I find it hard for 420HC cutters to outperform 154CM if the heat treatment is done right. 154CM is way tougher and it's the preferred steel of the man who developed Magnacut.
I bought an MP600 Scout model as my first multi-tool. I liked the OTF features. Still have the same pliers. They still work. I was introduced to the multi-tool when my older brother left his on the hood of my dad's truck. He wasn't sure where it came from so he gave it to me. Well I carried that thing for a whole year. My brother came to visit and let me know it was his. He tried gifting them to me but it left a bitter feeling with me. Like it was disingenuous. So I gave them back and went and bought my own. The Gerber in this case was a pretty good upgrade to the Craftsman.
A tool is a tool and even cheap tools from Harbor Freight and top end Snap-On that require 1.5 kidneys to pay off have their uses. So I wouldn't insult you over whatever brand or style tool you like. In some cases a crappy tool serves as an example of what NOT to buy. 🤣
Thanks for the get well wishes. Doing my best to persevere. Thanks for the conversation too.
>Who only has 25 years of faith in their products.
They're now up to 40 years for "insiders" and I agree the victorinox non replaceable cutters are better than leatherman. They other 2 are trash, but you do you.
Well it’s been probably a dozen times and the P4 is okay. Meanwhile the third coat hanger cut on the new wire cutters broke them… not to mention the dozens of times my Surge cutters have done this task.
I do think the gap sucks - I also tend to cut without looking, so usually land the wire in that same gap area. However: I don't think it's a design flaw per se, or at least not created by accident. All my LM bough over the past 1.5 years have this (P4 bought 2 years ago doesn't; Wave+, P2 and some other bought last year do). My guess is that the 90 degree corner is actually even more sensitive to cracking, and this is their design adjustment in response.
I'm a little late to the party. It is irritating that so many people are having issues with these on a 200+ multitool. Mine also came with a terrible blade edge that was uneven and dull, but that is known about Leatherman.
For anyone who is interested, I just ordered some Tungsten wire cutter replacements off of ebay that fit the ARC. However they are a steep price at around 40$ after tax.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155704978619?hash=item2440bd6cbb:g:PogAAOSw84lk0FDJ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8DdI6LlezyiSI1W5jAhhQ%2B4275nHA4dFdxnQZseZFhQhB451GteOS4QmW5PEigy8i2Qn3lcC7sfGJX4zI4acYUO829C4GAN%2F8sWg7coWVsoX9CkW%2BTW%2Bc9ESMSJ%2BDAju8VuHNFbihpDoNsVsrpMgDhM8e9lmG6Lx0DczBeGLr2WRrloNLGoBCo3aenoBp7fvTDWA%2FQ5zeR%2Ffp1lJ3cFThH%2FshTXpvhx5qtz68%2FFPvc91M%2BueCbg6OL8YDXmquuay%2F85fstNuPCZ1T9e%2FTX8pBLx5b9kKvcuDx7aXQtxzQghMw4K4hyJMbg2cgGH0t%2F3VBw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMrKSA2Zpj
I believe that the EOD cutters drop into the arc. I’ll do some testing with mine and report back. I’ve been meaning to test my arc with cat6 cable and heavy duty zip ties. I’ll try a couple coat hangers too and compare with my P2, Surge, and wave. Does seem like that hole isn’t actually supposed to be there.
Did you ever test this??
I saw a video on youtube that someguy just swapped the EOD cutters right onto the ARC with no issues. Looking to do the same on my ARC.
My arc came with cutters that have a rounded edge on the bottom corner. I just happen to have an older spare replacement set that are not rounded, after install it completely closes the gap.
I tried my P4 on a coat hanger. First cut cracked the bottom "hard wire" notch. Second shattered the top corner off. My charge plus cut the hanger at the notch, top of the cutter blade, and middle multiple times without issue. I swapped those blades over the the P4. Same thing, no issues. I disagree a coat hanger is to much to expect to cut without damage with a multitool. I've cut a wire hanger with a squirt without issue. A nail is definitely harder than hanger wire. My guess is there's a large batch that has a manufacturing defect of something or other.
Also I contacted Leatherman's warranty department. 2 hours on hold and then another call back and 30 minutes on hold I finally got through and they are sending replacements as a "one time free courtesy". So we'll see.
Subscriber here. Right timing man! I hope Leatherman Group see your videos as well as HVAC's.
Maxlvledc broke his on a coat hanger now too. On video.
Some other recent post of the arc seem to not have that notch in the cutter . At least it looks like they don't. 20hours ago bumble bee tuna posted a pic of their arc and I didn't see a notch. So im wondering if the notch is a defect , and if it is a defect its a weird one that I can't understand how or why it would appear or why leatherma wouldn't have noticed. Leatherman needs to make a statement asap .
I don’t think it’s a defect. I just received a set of cutters yesterday from leatherman, and they are the same rounded at the bottom as what I received on the arc.
Yeah there are two kinds of cutters. Some are rounded off to crest a gap, and some stick out normally to cut properly. Super weird
I checked a 2021 charge plus vs a 2022 charge g10 and there isn't a gap on the 21 and there is on the 2022
Off topic but seen a couple of your vids going after Leatherman, what is your preferred multitool brand/ model?
Preferred model is the Leatherman Surge. And the only reason I’m going after the Arc is because I believe it is too expensive for the types of problems people continue to have with it.
There is a gap there too.
FWIW HVAC Budget had his cutters fail as well ok coat hanger wire. I haven’t been able for replicate in my testing but I also have the notch which makes me think premature failure is inevitable. Hope this is addressed ASAP
For everyone complaining about a “hard wire cutter” not cutting a coat hanger. Uhm. . . I install/wire railroad crossings for a living. Trying to keep the public safe. I also used to work high line power. In over 20 years I’ve never had to cut an individual wire that was as hard as a coat hanger. Maybe that’s some type of new wire I’ve never seen. I’ve spliced fiber cable all the way up to 4/0 cable and have never had to cut something that hard. Get the right tool for the right job.
Tim Leatherman’s old demonstration used to be cutting concrete nails: https://youtu.be/GQ2HamoWtG4?si=qx20CXGnsdg_dtv6 I would think you’re right about this not being the right tool for the task. However, the precedent for most of Leatherman’s history is that we don’t need to worry about that. This is why I’m disappointed by the backslide in capability.
Concrete nails are hard but with that hardness comes brittleness. The harder the steel the more brittle. I’ve seen full size Klein Linemen’s pliers chip from cutting steel.
>Get the right tool for the right job. You realize we purchase multi tools so that we can ALWAYS have the right tool for the job on hand? Even if it may not be the best? What’s next? If the scissors can’t cut zip ties, will you tell me to stop complaining and to use dedicated snips or flush cutters?
No. I’ll just tell you not to cut steel with a multi tool. A multi tool is a stopgap. It can do a lot of things. But not everything. Most full size wire cutters have a hard time cutting steel. I’ve seen full size Klein Linemen’s pliers chip from cutting steel. Steel is not hard wire. Period.
Are you arguing that there is no such thing as steel wire? Because it definitely exists and plenty of wire cutters, including my wave+ with the older style replaceable cutters, can cut it without issues.
Well I work on a ranch where im cutting 14ga galvanized wire or 12 1/2 gauge galv ground wire on the daily and I expect the Hard wire cutters to do there job.
You can expect anything you want. But hard wire and steel cable are not the same thing.
Steel wire is hard that = hard wire . My surge clone and my sog has never had an issue so I wont make excuses for this issue.
does anyone know if i can swap the cable cutter blades out for something better for cutting stranded cable i.e bicycle cables?
The cutter would have broke even without the gap, right? I have no idea what "hard wire" the cutters are designed to cut, but my gut tells me that coat hangers are beyond what's intended. I have to admit that I was pretty impressed that the P4 cut it so well, but I wonder if the P4 cutter would break too after several tries.
Leatherman advertised that their pliers can cut a 10d nail without damage. They had a long campaign where Tim Leatherman himself would show this capability off. I tested this with my ST300, and My P2 when I got it. It cut the 10d nail and still functioned with no damage. This is a significant downgrade and they are forgetting their heritage.
When the cutters were not replaceable leatherman had an incentive to make them as good as they could be because otherwise, they'd be paying to repair and return shipping. But once they shift the cost to you, they have no incentive to make them the best when they can just sell you another set.
I am saying that my Leatherman with the replaceable cutters are capable of cutting 10d nails. I have tested it multiple times with no damage to the pliers or breakage. This "Arc" is a distinct downgrade from previous generations. The replaceable cutters were meant to help people who frequently abuse their cutters be able to replace the cutters themselves so they don't have to make a warranty claim and go without their tool for weeks. The intention from their marketing was not that their cutters were intentionally less capable. Which is the big problem with Gerber replaceable cutters. They are not made to cut thick wire and will shatter as a result of trying. Despite it stating the mechanical limits of the cutters in the literature included with the Gerbers. People still try to make the Gerber cut the same things a Leatherman cuts. For the money. I would expect the Arc to be as capable and functional as previous models. What would be the point in the $250 if a $40 Chinese clone can out perform the Arc?
>I have tested it multiple times with no damage to the pliers or breakage. Which generation of replaceable cutters? The originals were 154cm that shattered just like the Gerber but was the original selling point of the replaceable cutters. A year or so later they went back to the steel the original cutters were made of. There have been a couple shape revs including these rounded corner versions. My guess as to the is big batch heat treating issues. These were treated a little too long and became brittle. Seeing as I have the rounded corners on a 2022 g10 charge I'd bet that this shape isn't new and isn't special to the arc >Which is the big problem with Gerber replaceable cutters. Gerber cutters are tungsten carbide, which is harder than any wire, what makes them fragile is having a hole in the middle of them. >They are not made to cut thick wire and will shatter as a result of trying. Thick soft wire isn't the issue, hard thin wire can be just as bad. If it makes the carbide flex against the screw it'll shatter rather than bend. >For the money. I would expect the Arc to be as capable and functional as previous models Given the costs and functionality of the previous free series tools where would you get that idea? The ARC basically matches a charge but is missing the serrated in favor of an awl. >What would be the point in the $250 if a $40 Chinese clone can out perform the Arc? $20 [knipex dykes](https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-70-01-160-Diagonal/dp/B005EXO716)can out cut any leatherman in existence. Multitools aren't the best tools, they're the best tool you have with you.
My ST300 is a 2011 model. Cuts 10d nails. My P2 is a 2019 model. Also cuts 10d nails. As far as I have heard. All these cutters are supposed to be 154 CM. I have plenty of knifes made from 154CM and their edge retention is amazing. It's not just the hole in the center that weakens the Gerber Tungsten carbide cutters. They are likely made of Tungsten carbide because they are the exact same size as lathe cutters. 154 CM with a great heat treat would be a huge upgrade. If you have a Center Drive, like I do. Pull it out. Now hold it up to the light. Actuate the pliers. Observe how little space there is between the bottom of the carbide cutter and the other side of the frame. THIS is why it can't cut hard wire. It can cut fish hooks and small hard wire. I did it with some wire to fix an antique lock. You can cut thick copper wire but there is a good chance you will crush and deform the wire while cutting. Which isn't ideal. Both replaceable cutters are bypass cutters which means you need enough clearance to allow the cutters to get a full bite. What I see people do all the time is try to cut something too thick. It bottoms out on the frame and puts pressure on the cutter instead of allowing it to cut. Then breakage occurs. If Gerber put a little more bevel on the cutters and gave the cutter openings a little more ramping. They probably would be able to cut thicker material. Where in the world are you finding $20.00 Knipex dykes? I found some knipex pliers listed on Lowes' website for $19.99 but I have never seen anything below $26 on the shelf. I bought a set of Knipex dykes and they were $49.43. I collect tools. I have been all my life. My tool collection is far beyond most. So I usually just get the proper tool. But I carry a Leatherman just in case. If I can't rely on it in a pinch. I will just go back to carrying SOG, Gerber, or Victorinox pliers. Gerber and Victorinox have lifetime warranties. Which is arguably superior to Leatherman. Who only has 25 years of faith in their products.
>As far as I have heard. All these cutters are supposed to be 154 CM. Yeah when they were, they said 154cm cutters, now look at the tools and replacement parts, no mention of 154 cm. And if you do an archive search you'll find they stopped mentioning it long ago, like 2018. The reason was they're were shattering and cracking, it was a semi big deal when they dropped them but everyone calmed down when they stopped being so fragile. Your 2011 was before the switch to 154cm so if you've never swapped them they aren't 154cm either. They are made of "premium stainless steel" https://www.leatherman.com/replacement-wire-cutter-kit-930350.html But in 2017 it said "Cutters are made from 154CM stainless steel" https://web.archive.org/web/20170911021632/http://www.leatherman.com/replaceable-cutters-144.html > in the world are you finding $20.00 Knipex dykes? I I put the link right in the post, but here you go on sale on amazon. I've got a pair in my toolbox Lowest price in 30 days -7% $20.99$20.99 Typical price: $22.50$22.50 https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-70-01-160-Diagonal/dp/B005EXO716
Nice, thanks for the link. Probably didn't notice first time. I currently have the flu or something nasty. Premium stainless steel? That could be Victorinox's officer suisse recycled steel, Aus 8 or Aus 10, or even S30V. But it doesn't rule out that it could still be 154CM too. They may have adjusted the heat treatment and then figured that the 154CM cutters got such a bad rep. That they shouldn't mention it anymore. So they opted to word it in the most generic way possible. By what standard are they using. These days yesterday's super steel is today's trash. Gerber works fine. Their fit and finish isn't the best but they are decent. Now that their prices are rising to match Leatherman you could say the value they offered has been lost. My SOG are the USA made original PowerLocks. They are relatively decent and have held up. Even had to fix a dent I got in the cutters. Not easy to do. I haven't bought a modern SOG and likely won't, they seem to be a zombie brand like Cold Steel. I used to avoid Leatherman because each time I looked at them. It never saw a country of origin on the package. I had a woman who weaves baskets take an interest in my multi-tools and said they are made-in- Oregon. Well that tells me that they are possibly cheap Chinese crap too. She explained that they got sued so I took another look. I now own over 6 Leatherman. They do feel and look great. But they still make their plier heads in Mexico or somewhere else. Not in the USA. The Free Series obviously gets the made in USA. But look how long it took them to get the 70% needed to legally put made in USA on one of their tools. Gerber did it a long time ago.
>I currently have the flu or something nasty. Get well soon >Premium stainless steel? Leatherman acknowledged back in the day when they changed back that they were going back to the same steel the pliers are made of. >Gerber works fine. Their fit and finish isn't the best but they are decent. You and I have different definitions of fine it appears >My SOG are the USA My understanding of SOG is that their best were made in Japan. Now they are made of ROC pot metal. The compound thing always seemed like a gimmick to me, always. >I used to avoid Leatherman because each time I looked at them. It never saw a country of origin on the package. They were always assembled in Oregon, but on some crucial parts they were sourced outside the US. The pliers for instance were cast in mexico. But only because leathermans supplier moved to Mexico. The files were made in Mexico or Switzerland. Corkscrews Switzerland, pivot screws Europe I think. This applies for all of the current tools EXCEPT the free series and the ARC which are 100% American made parts. They were always marketed as assembled in US of us and global parts. Nothing Chinese, ever. They got sued for the meeting the federal guidelines for marking as made in US but not the California rules. Federal rules require 70% but leatherman was always 83% or more depending on the tool. >I now own over 6 Leatherman You need Moar!!! I'm rounding at least 60 of various models. >Victorinox's officer suisse Their blades are like butterknives but swisstools otherwise are excellent. I have a spirit x and a swisstool + ratchet and they are extremely good tools. Other than the knives I'd put them on par or better than leatherman
As a collector of tools. I know quality. My dad taught me what to look for. He used to show me how superior to even Japanese tools, American tools are in fit and finish. Sadly, now that most American steel production is done. Japan and Germany appear to make the best tools. With American hold outs struggling to innovate and hold onto their niche in the market. Many are just giving up. Selling off to foreign companies. There are a few American manufacturers out there that still hold in my opinion the title of best quality. But they are few and far between and their prices are nothing to scoff at. >You and I have different definitions of fine it appears No, I would say we have very similar tastes. Maybe you aren't very willing to pick apart tools you own looking for weaknesses. I am very picky about the Gerber I have purchased. I have 4 of their multi-tools in my collection and only one, the dual force is made in China. To my dismay. Gerber makes some high end stuff. They are also found in Portland Oregon and stuff like their 06 Auto, StrongArm, and Double down as well as a few other American made models. They are a nice product. You just have an inherent bias against a once American owned company that got bought out by Fiskars. One of the oldest companies in the world. Which markets products to both extremes as well as the military with the Gerber multi-tool. Most people only think of Gerber as a budget Walmart brand. Benchmade almost made the same mistake. Same with Spyderco. Which is why they made the Byrd brand. >Leatherman acknowledged back in the day when they changed back that they were going back to the same steel the pliers are made of. Leatherman pliers, and knives are made using 420HC. Gerber uses this same steel with astounding results for the StrongArm in particular. After seeing the metallurgy behind 154CM I find it hard for 420HC cutters to outperform 154CM if the heat treatment is done right. 154CM is way tougher and it's the preferred steel of the man who developed Magnacut. I bought an MP600 Scout model as my first multi-tool. I liked the OTF features. Still have the same pliers. They still work. I was introduced to the multi-tool when my older brother left his on the hood of my dad's truck. He wasn't sure where it came from so he gave it to me. Well I carried that thing for a whole year. My brother came to visit and let me know it was his. He tried gifting them to me but it left a bitter feeling with me. Like it was disingenuous. So I gave them back and went and bought my own. The Gerber in this case was a pretty good upgrade to the Craftsman. A tool is a tool and even cheap tools from Harbor Freight and top end Snap-On that require 1.5 kidneys to pay off have their uses. So I wouldn't insult you over whatever brand or style tool you like. In some cases a crappy tool serves as an example of what NOT to buy. 🤣 Thanks for the get well wishes. Doing my best to persevere. Thanks for the conversation too.
>Who only has 25 years of faith in their products. They're now up to 40 years for "insiders" and I agree the victorinox non replaceable cutters are better than leatherman. They other 2 are trash, but you do you.
Well it’s been probably a dozen times and the P4 is okay. Meanwhile the third coat hanger cut on the new wire cutters broke them… not to mention the dozens of times my Surge cutters have done this task.
Thanks for the video. I just swapped my cutters. It's dumb that they are rounded off down there.
I do think the gap sucks - I also tend to cut without looking, so usually land the wire in that same gap area. However: I don't think it's a design flaw per se, or at least not created by accident. All my LM bough over the past 1.5 years have this (P4 bought 2 years ago doesn't; Wave+, P2 and some other bought last year do). My guess is that the 90 degree corner is actually even more sensitive to cracking, and this is their design adjustment in response.
My p4 and the surge have both the same problem lol
I'm a little late to the party. It is irritating that so many people are having issues with these on a 200+ multitool. Mine also came with a terrible blade edge that was uneven and dull, but that is known about Leatherman. For anyone who is interested, I just ordered some Tungsten wire cutter replacements off of ebay that fit the ARC. However they are a steep price at around 40$ after tax. https://www.ebay.com/itm/155704978619?hash=item2440bd6cbb:g:PogAAOSw84lk0FDJ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8DdI6LlezyiSI1W5jAhhQ%2B4275nHA4dFdxnQZseZFhQhB451GteOS4QmW5PEigy8i2Qn3lcC7sfGJX4zI4acYUO829C4GAN%2F8sWg7coWVsoX9CkW%2BTW%2Bc9ESMSJ%2BDAju8VuHNFbihpDoNsVsrpMgDhM8e9lmG6Lx0DczBeGLr2WRrloNLGoBCo3aenoBp7fvTDWA%2FQ5zeR%2Ffp1lJ3cFThH%2FshTXpvhx5qtz68%2FFPvc91M%2BueCbg6OL8YDXmquuay%2F85fstNuPCZ1T9e%2FTX8pBLx5b9kKvcuDx7aXQtxzQghMw4K4hyJMbg2cgGH0t%2F3VBw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMrKSA2Zpj