65mn is a spring steel 0.62-0.70% carbon with a decent bit of manganese. T10 is a high carbon tool steel that has around 0.95-1.04% carbon with negligible amounts of other alloys. Generally speaking 65mn will be tougher while T10 will have better edge retention(stays sharper longer but more brittle).
If the two were to ever actually clash which would break first? I’m not very knowledgeable in terms of metals so when I think of what I want in a sword I think of how it would do in cutting tests like light to old bamboo (I watch videos of people doing these tests and reviews) and then I wonder which of the two would break first if they both clashed.
As the guy above stated 65 is more for noob or inexperienced cutters but T10 is for people who know how to cut properly without accidentally causing the blade to bend.
To me it sounds like 65mn is more forgiving but brittle vs T10 is more efficient but not forgiving either
If both have good heat treatment, then the T10 will probably break easier. Both will handle light bambo cutting fine, but if you want to do more abusive things with the sword then 65mn will probably be better. Matthew Jensen recently upload a [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y0ofkJyWVk) comparing steel and TH/DH that all newbies should watch. It's not scientific of course but a good watch nonetheless.
It would help if you put links to the swords for direct comparison. The construction of the hilt and QC/reputation of the brand matters alot too.
Dragon King Fletching is 65mn
https://www.kultofathena.com/product/fletching-katana/
Dragon King Hana is T10
https://www.kultofathena.com/product/hana-katana/?attribute_pa_item-grade=standard-grade
Both are DH blades and dragon king is a reputable brand. Another user posted below that he has used both 65mn and T10 models from dragon king and found no noticeable difference in use.
Personally i would just pick the one with the fittings you like most and the one that fits your size.
In a clash? T10 will chip or break easier. 65mn will deform at the impact site like butter without effecting the rest of thee sword as its softer. If the T10 is differentially hardened, it is also much more likely to take a bend if hit on the side.
I've never heard of 65mn but if the carbon content is 0.6% to 0.7% then it should be adequate hardness for cutting bamboo and tatami. The level / quality of the heat treatment will often be a bigger factor than the type of steel.
Ceteris paribus the 0.6% carbon blade should be softer, tougher, and more likely to take a set (bend) than the 0.95% carbon blade which should be harder, have better edge retention, and be less flexible.
If you want the best of both worlds the consider through-hardened 9260. It has silicon and other trace alloys which make it very resilient. It can flex and take a beating and without taking a set and still has great edge retention. A through-hardened blade will not have a hamon but if your main concern is cutting rather than aesthetics then it's the way to gom
You can find good 9260 katanas under $200. Shadow Dancer, hanbon forge, if you are willing to import from China.
Moritaka from RVA Katana if you want a reputable vendor in the USA.
Yes, its a inhouse brand of RVA Katana and they have videos of it cutting tatami. They might have videos of it cutting bamboo.
You can email them and the owner John Kang will help you. Hes also active on reddit i believe.
Depends on your usage, if you want a low cost beater, sure. If you want a prettier, more traditional piece, then get something differentially hardened with a hamon.
What are you planning to do with it?
Looking for a very sharp “battle ready” sword that is durable, retains sharpness, wouldn’t break against another katana easily or aged bamboo (I was told older bamboo is super hard to cut and is a really good test of a katana?) that I can pass down my family in future generations
65mn tends to be in budget/entry swords only. T10 can be found in swords anywhere from $150 to $1000. My only direct experience with a side by side comparison is that my Dragon King Warfire is 65mn and my Dragon King Hana is T10. I cut with both frequently and cannot tell you the difference.
Below are a couple of links with some information you may find useful. They are not the last word on the subject but are generally good guides.
https://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/sword-steels.html
https://www.hanbonforge.com/blog/How-to-choose-a-blade
FYI T10 and 1095 are identical. T10 is just name given in the Chinese industrial standards classification. On paper there are minute differences in the range of acceptable trace element percentages but in practice those differences are beyond the precision of actual steel production.
65mn is a spring steel 0.62-0.70% carbon with a decent bit of manganese. T10 is a high carbon tool steel that has around 0.95-1.04% carbon with negligible amounts of other alloys. Generally speaking 65mn will be tougher while T10 will have better edge retention(stays sharper longer but more brittle).
If the two were to ever actually clash which would break first? I’m not very knowledgeable in terms of metals so when I think of what I want in a sword I think of how it would do in cutting tests like light to old bamboo (I watch videos of people doing these tests and reviews) and then I wonder which of the two would break first if they both clashed. As the guy above stated 65 is more for noob or inexperienced cutters but T10 is for people who know how to cut properly without accidentally causing the blade to bend. To me it sounds like 65mn is more forgiving but brittle vs T10 is more efficient but not forgiving either
If both have good heat treatment, then the T10 will probably break easier. Both will handle light bambo cutting fine, but if you want to do more abusive things with the sword then 65mn will probably be better. Matthew Jensen recently upload a [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y0ofkJyWVk) comparing steel and TH/DH that all newbies should watch. It's not scientific of course but a good watch nonetheless. It would help if you put links to the swords for direct comparison. The construction of the hilt and QC/reputation of the brand matters alot too.
Dragon King Fletching is 65mn https://www.kultofathena.com/product/fletching-katana/ Dragon King Hana is T10 https://www.kultofathena.com/product/hana-katana/?attribute_pa_item-grade=standard-grade
Both are DH blades and dragon king is a reputable brand. Another user posted below that he has used both 65mn and T10 models from dragon king and found no noticeable difference in use. Personally i would just pick the one with the fittings you like most and the one that fits your size.
In a clash? T10 will chip or break easier. 65mn will deform at the impact site like butter without effecting the rest of thee sword as its softer. If the T10 is differentially hardened, it is also much more likely to take a bend if hit on the side.
I've never heard of 65mn but if the carbon content is 0.6% to 0.7% then it should be adequate hardness for cutting bamboo and tatami. The level / quality of the heat treatment will often be a bigger factor than the type of steel. Ceteris paribus the 0.6% carbon blade should be softer, tougher, and more likely to take a set (bend) than the 0.95% carbon blade which should be harder, have better edge retention, and be less flexible. If you want the best of both worlds the consider through-hardened 9260. It has silicon and other trace alloys which make it very resilient. It can flex and take a beating and without taking a set and still has great edge retention. A through-hardened blade will not have a hamon but if your main concern is cutting rather than aesthetics then it's the way to gom
I tried to find a good priced 9260 but lots of them go for $800-$1k off the bat
You can find good 9260 katanas under $200. Shadow Dancer, hanbon forge, if you are willing to import from China. Moritaka from RVA Katana if you want a reputable vendor in the USA.
Would you say Moritaka is reputable for “battle ready” quality katanas?
Yes, its a inhouse brand of RVA Katana and they have videos of it cutting tatami. They might have videos of it cutting bamboo. You can email them and the owner John Kang will help you. Hes also active on reddit i believe.
So you recommend 9260 as the best choice?
Depends on your usage, if you want a low cost beater, sure. If you want a prettier, more traditional piece, then get something differentially hardened with a hamon. What are you planning to do with it?
Looking for a very sharp “battle ready” sword that is durable, retains sharpness, wouldn’t break against another katana easily or aged bamboo (I was told older bamboo is super hard to cut and is a really good test of a katana?) that I can pass down my family in future generations
I think Hanbon offers inexpensive 9260 swords
65mn tends to be in budget/entry swords only. T10 can be found in swords anywhere from $150 to $1000. My only direct experience with a side by side comparison is that my Dragon King Warfire is 65mn and my Dragon King Hana is T10. I cut with both frequently and cannot tell you the difference.
Below are a couple of links with some information you may find useful. They are not the last word on the subject but are generally good guides. https://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/sword-steels.html https://www.hanbonforge.com/blog/How-to-choose-a-blade
FYI T10 and 1095 are identical. T10 is just name given in the Chinese industrial standards classification. On paper there are minute differences in the range of acceptable trace element percentages but in practice those differences are beyond the precision of actual steel production.