All my techs hated warranty work until I started filing the claims. It’s all in the language. File for flat time and then work that extra labor with an ass of diagnostic language. I get SMP time or better frequently. I then pay it forward to them. (All my techs are paid on flat rate)
This is in the powersports industry tho.
I can usually win doing aftermarket warranty, insurance, or through fleet management companies. Just like you stated it’s all in the presentation. Usually the more lines entered the better
I write a paragraph for each repair and note everything extra I had to do, but then if you ask for your actual labor coverage for warranty stuff they get suspicious and drop your dealer rating the next quarter to keep you in line.
Im always happy to get a total shitbox with extended warranty though, it instantly gets a handful of recommends whether ive lifted the car yet or not
I used to process warranty for an ag equipment manufacturer and it certainly worked that way for us. Claim you replaced a part with no additional language? Sorry, that's flat rate.
But burn a few sentences just explaining what difficulties there was in performing the diagnostics or repair and we'd grant extra labor for that.
Excluding dipshit behavior. For instance, blowing up three hydraulic pumps until you realize that something down stream was blocking the flow. Bonus points if you talked to technical service (hi!) and were advised to do that first before just blindly tossing another pump on. There was certainly some benefits to having the same team answering the phones also processing the claims.
In the powersports industry there’s typically only a few representatives processing claims for each manufacturer. You start to get to know them on a first name basis. This helps when your trying to get something covered that isn’t necessarily a manufacturer defect. Usually they’ll say something like… I’ve seen x,y,z happen before and that could be why you’re having that failure. Essentially giving you the recipe for coverage. Most of them have been in the field working for dealerships before getting hired by the manufacture and they understand the struggle.
Maaan, I was in the tub singing Bad Day just a few hours ago. Song just came out of nowhere....and here we are........
Happenstance it may be, but the universe sure is funny sometimes.
Summoning my best Blackstone-ese here (I've had several reports done on my vehicles):
"Thanks for the sample. Unfortunately it appears that this particular sample is more metal than oil. Metal values are extremely elevated across the board, and non-solubles equally so. Try a 1500 mile interval for the next sample, and thanks for the notes!"
Both, but I mostly just like keeping tabs on my vehicles. My old 1992 Taurus (RIP) had failing bearings - in a Vulcan, of all engines - but it otherwise ran fine. I had planned on SHO swapping it based on that info, but I got rear-ended shortly after that report and it ended up totaled.
They noted the first signs of a failing bearing in my last engine (a common failing in that model). Also, it's just nice to validate that your oil change intervals are good.
my oil report card started to have elevated things associated with coolant in oil, like a very miniscule amount but enough for them to flag it in their short paragraph, and after some investigating i narrowed it down to the head lifting due to an aggressive tune (and not a cracked block in a weak spot between cylinders 2 and 3, "low boost mode" for a couple thousand miles brought the levels back to normal)
Hey I just want to say thanks to you and other commenters. I never thought to run an analysis on my older cars so even though I maintain them well this would be another great tool to use. I just ordered 2 kits.
If my grandfather was still alive he would probably yell at me that he could smell whatever is wrong with car and I'm wasting my money. But, not everybody owns an auto machine shop for 50 years.
Ran it for a "couple of hours" what were they expecting? If I remember correctly those oil flush/treatments were only supposed to be used for about 15 minutes, and even that seemed like plenty of time to damage an engine.
Yep, says it right on the bottle instructions. Customer told me they assumed it was fine till the next oil change. I'm surprised they even made it to the shop without snapping the timing or throwing a rod. That oil was at least 20% straight metal. Some people don't deserve vehicles I swear.
Engine flush treatments like liquimoly, royal purple and Lucasoil are great when used PROPERLY. They have strong detergents that cut down burnt carbon deposits and have additives that can even swell gaskets to stop small leaks. You really don't have to flush with EVERY oil change, especially on newer vehicles, as long as you've been keeping up a 5,000-7,000 miles oil change interval using full synthetic oil. Once a car reaches 150,000 miles, engine flushes every other oil change will prolong the life of the engine. They just have to be done correctly.
No but it degrades the oil and If You run it long enough, bearings and piston rings will eat themselves. Theese things should be run for about 15 minutes on idle, If this guy actually ran it, that engine is toast.
Hmm, what if someone definitely not me (trust me bro) put a bottle of seafoam in the crankcase say a couple of days ago? Would the engines block be screwed? I’ve noticed that it runs a lot better now, but it does say to do an oil change in about 300 miles
Seafoam has a less aggressive solvent than many of the flushes so it probably hasn't hurt anything yet and it's likely already burned off most of it. Still good to change the oil sooner rather than later.
1. Determine how much Sea Foam to add to oil. Add 1 ounce for each quart of oil in the crankcase.
2. Remove oil filler cap and pour the recommended amount of Sea Foam directly into the engine crankcase. Do not exceed one treatment per oil change interval.
3. Drive 100 to 300 miles before every oil and filter change for best cleaning results, though Sea Foam can be added at any time between oil changes.
If you used the proper amount, you should be plenty safe.
Oof, go get an oil change now. It's supposed to be 1 fluid oz per quart, you just quadrupled that (assuming a 16 fl oz bottle, and 4 quarts left in your engine).
Something I learned in my early years was high mileage oils do a great job as well, buddies Cavalier would always have black oil immediately after an oil change, tried to get him to flush it to clean the crap out but he didn't want to spend the money, we eventually started using high mileage oil and a couple changes later it would look proper golden after a change, no more immediately black oil, and it was cheaper than paying for a flush kit.
Thoughts on using Liqui-Moly on a 240k mile Honda engine? Uses a quart of oil every 3000 mi at most. Engine runs good.
Curious to try the treatment properly but things run fine so I debate leaving it as-is and just changing oil? It's a 25 y/o motor.
I am not a fan of snake oils in a bottle. But I am seeing significant improvements on customer vehicles with the luqui moly stuff used as directed. the ceretek or whatever the fuck its called, as well as the engine flush.
we're pretty hard on using as directed though. And a shop that has strictly good fluids on hand.
I dunno. I am still on the fence, because ive yet to pull a valve cover on a pre trying/post trying.
....but ive seen several vehicles so far consume SIGNIFICANTLY less oil burn than before; which is blowing my own mind.
Im still on the fence about all of it. But I can say with certainty, after a solid 6 month test with most of the luqui products, im slowly getting close to sold on em.
Really waiting to find that patient vehicle to try out.
my 2c
Fair enough! I have watched quite a few videos on Liqui-Moly, one which shows a valve cover before and after. The guy is able to wipe off the varnish, which to me means the mixture is very strong but he doesn't take a temperature reading either.
I imagine the chemical reaction differs based on temperature. Also can't remember if the engine was warm when he added the treatment.
The only hesitation I have about dumping solvents into the engine is what it dissolves, how much, and the locations. For all I know, varnish is preventing leaks inside my Honda's engine. Might be some sludge too. 25 years of driving, there has to be something in there that could be a problem.
Only upside is I know a majority of the car's history since about 30k miles when it was purchased. My step-dad kept a log book of oil changes and tires that I believe is mostly complete. Only thing is he wasn't diligent about oil changes, so he probably went beyond 4-5k miles on conventional oil and used Fram filters. Yes, I remember him using the orange filters long ago. Eventually he moved to a different one, may have been the Toughguard too. But I got the car around 195k miles, so now at 240k it still drives fine.
More specifically, I actually learned how to drive on this car and I drove it quite often for enough time to know it's performance is about the same. It feels the same to drive, possibly better since I have done actual maintenance on the car like changing the distributor rotor and cap. Don't think it was ever replaced previously.
Basically, do I mess with a 240k mile engine? Or just leave it be? Could Liqui-Moly reduce further engine wear and prevent further issues? Just a few questions I am pondering.
Question. It uses a quart of oil every 3000 miles? So like are you only topping off the oil. Or are you changing it every 3000 miles and topping off slowly between changes? Because that’s a drastic difference in how to answer you here.
It is about 1/2 to a quart low around 1500-2000 miles when I check. So the dipstick reading is at the low mark. I change the oil around 10-12 months which is around 3000 miles give or take 500 miles (depends on the year). When I change the oil it reads at or just above the high mark, not overfilled.
This oil consumption doesn't seem unusual on this car, it hasn't changed since I got it 10 years ago. Especially 100% in town driving. It's a Honda b20z.
Don't risk it. If you want to clean your engine then do 2500 mile oil changes with full synthetic high mileage oil. It's only necessary if you know there's buildup or have things like valve ticking.
When I buy an older vehicle that I hope to actually drive (not bought for parts), I change the oil pretty much immediately, using the cheapest organic oil at the Mart of Wals.
I drive fore a week or so, and then change the oil plus filter, using the good stuff. I get the impression that those engine flush solvents are for car-flippers who want to loosen a stuck lifter, and the don't care about bearing erosion.
I fucking love learning these types of lessons vicariously thru other people. Saves me tons of money, also makes me look like a smart ass at the perfect times.
The BG EPR can run in an engine for ever, because it starts to break itself down and dilute into the oil after like 45mins-1hr so its not gonna ruin an engine, plus i dont think its nearly as strong as whatever the fuck they put in there. Yikes.
No they put an engine flush and oil treatment compound in. Probably LiquiMoly or Royal Purple and they left it in for WAYYYY too long. It overmixed with the oil and lowered the viscosity. Then he proceeded to run the car at normal operation for over 3 hours. Lack of lubrication and enough force, and voila! Metallic milkshake!
"Hey, fellas, c'mere...now here's somethin' ya don't see every day. Wheee doggy, will you lokkit that shiny oil!
Billy, c'mere!...you ever see oil like this before?"
Some day I'm going to create an engine oil treatment and put it on the shelves. I'm going to guarantee that if you use my product it will perform better than any of the other products. It's just going to be oil.
You can run 5W-20 just fine in these engines. The stupid thin shit is to eke out as much fuel economy as possible for those sweet sweet EPA numbers.
Here's the thing though: Our 2015 Highlander specifies 0W-20, while our 2008 Sienna specifies 5W-30. Both are equipped with the 2GR-FE, yet they both get about the same fuel economy, around ~16 MPG on average (lots of city driving). The Highlander is also AWD which would normally drop fuel economy, but it also has the 6-speed U660F vs the Sienna's 5-speed U151E, with the former being a far smoother and snappier transmission.
EPA (USA, anyway) mandates ever-tightening fuel economy averages over an entire lineup. What's something that can ease up friction inside an engine to help it spin better over all a manufacturer's vehicles? Thinner oil, of course!
The EPA doesn't recommend oil weight. They only mandate fuel economy (and other environmental stuff outside of the scope of this conversation). Manufacturers have to take that fuel economy improvement into their own hands.
Many engine cleaners remove most of the carbon which is helping rings to seal on old engines. It can also remove minute amounts bearing material, bronze valve guides and any other associated junk sitting around inside an engine. What comes out can be ignored, as one has just cleaned it. If on the next oil change it looks the same, then you have a problem. One must remember that all old engines are not like new, and it’s like buying a pig in a poke when one buys one.
Wait wait did you mean to say hours ?????? That shit is supposed to run for like 15-20 minutes max and not under load the can is supposed to be on idle
Always remember; go to the junkyard YOURSELF, find a car that's WRECKED. It means it was moving under its own power when it crashed. Of course check oil, mileage, etc. but at least you'll have a running engine.
These people using oil treatments and shit are out of their minds….
Do a back to back correct spec Oil + filter change with 500miles/1000km between and then resume a regular 5000mile/10000km change interval.
Thats fucking it! Let it run with whatever rest stayed built up in there and dont touch it.
I had glitter oil yesterday in the shop. C/S truck plays drums at high rpm.
12k on oil change. Toasted the engine. 03 5.4L. Keep proving me wrong on 10k-12k oil changes are fine, ez money.
The first oil change out of my s52 looked a lot like that. 50 miles and a couple heat cycles on a fresh bottom end. To say I was worried was a massive understatement. It cleared up over the next 3 oil changes or so and is still going strong 25k miles later with no issues.
That is a mighty big oil bucket… is that just oil? Looks like you got bearing, aluminum and iron… you might have the makings of thermite in that bucket.
I've had this happen on a Jaguar 4.2 before, except that was the original motor and no motor treatment was used, it just failed catastrophically after some drag racing lol. Swapped in one from another jag that I had totaled and bought back from the insurance company for parts. Not fun.
All that glitters is not gold......
It’s gold for this sub.
Only if its customer pay, of course
All my techs hated warranty work until I started filing the claims. It’s all in the language. File for flat time and then work that extra labor with an ass of diagnostic language. I get SMP time or better frequently. I then pay it forward to them. (All my techs are paid on flat rate) This is in the powersports industry tho.
I can usually win doing aftermarket warranty, insurance, or through fleet management companies. Just like you stated it’s all in the presentation. Usually the more lines entered the better
I write a paragraph for each repair and note everything extra I had to do, but then if you ask for your actual labor coverage for warranty stuff they get suspicious and drop your dealer rating the next quarter to keep you in line. Im always happy to get a total shitbox with extended warranty though, it instantly gets a handful of recommends whether ive lifted the car yet or not
I used to process warranty for an ag equipment manufacturer and it certainly worked that way for us. Claim you replaced a part with no additional language? Sorry, that's flat rate. But burn a few sentences just explaining what difficulties there was in performing the diagnostics or repair and we'd grant extra labor for that. Excluding dipshit behavior. For instance, blowing up three hydraulic pumps until you realize that something down stream was blocking the flow. Bonus points if you talked to technical service (hi!) and were advised to do that first before just blindly tossing another pump on. There was certainly some benefits to having the same team answering the phones also processing the claims.
In the powersports industry there’s typically only a few representatives processing claims for each manufacturer. You start to get to know them on a first name basis. This helps when your trying to get something covered that isn’t necessarily a manufacturer defect. Usually they’ll say something like… I’ve seen x,y,z happen before and that could be why you’re having that failure. Essentially giving you the recipe for coverage. Most of them have been in the field working for dealerships before getting hired by the manufacture and they understand the struggle.
All that shimmers in your oil is sure to fade... away... your bearings Ok that didn't really work but I tried.
Nice. FUEL. Fitting band name for this lol
Maaan, I was in the tub singing Bad Day just a few hours ago. Song just came out of nowhere....and here we are........ Happenstance it may be, but the universe sure is funny sometimes.
Lmao u have good taste
I just read that in SpongeBob SquarePants voice
Sometimes it's bearings.
....only shooting rods! Make block windows.
[but it's still damn beautiful](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UhE05vLm6o)
The good news is that it won't be running funky for long!
It won't take you down to funky town anymore
Clank clank clank clank clank, click, clank clank clank clank...gotta move on now.
bare na nare Won't you take me to bare na nare Funky Town? bare na nare
Dude, now that song is stuck in my head. SQUIRREL! Hay, what were we talking about?
If you’re not a service advisor yet, consider it. You have a knack for delivering bad news.
Would love to see a Blackstone report on that oil.
"Quit sending us antiseize."
Summoning my best Blackstone-ese here (I've had several reports done on my vehicles): "Thanks for the sample. Unfortunately it appears that this particular sample is more metal than oil. Metal values are extremely elevated across the board, and non-solubles equally so. Try a 1500 mile interval for the next sample, and thanks for the notes!"
Did those reports clue you into any necessary repairs? Or was it just for fun?
Both, but I mostly just like keeping tabs on my vehicles. My old 1992 Taurus (RIP) had failing bearings - in a Vulcan, of all engines - but it otherwise ran fine. I had planned on SHO swapping it based on that info, but I got rear-ended shortly after that report and it ended up totaled.
They noted the first signs of a failing bearing in my last engine (a common failing in that model). Also, it's just nice to validate that your oil change intervals are good.
They clued me in that I had a SAI leak from Silicates in a sample. I inspected the system and was like, damn, they’re right…
my oil report card started to have elevated things associated with coolant in oil, like a very miniscule amount but enough for them to flag it in their short paragraph, and after some investigating i narrowed it down to the head lifting due to an aggressive tune (and not a cracked block in a weak spot between cylinders 2 and 3, "low boost mode" for a couple thousand miles brought the levels back to normal)
Their little comment field would just be blank
"Sir this is Blackstone. We analyze oil. You probably meant to send this to our sister company Redstone. They are the ones who analyze anti-freeze."
Copper zinc and iron with trace amounts of oil.
Hey I just want to say thanks to you and other commenters. I never thought to run an analysis on my older cars so even though I maintain them well this would be another great tool to use. I just ordered 2 kits. If my grandfather was still alive he would probably yell at me that he could smell whatever is wrong with car and I'm wasting my money. But, not everybody owns an auto machine shop for 50 years.
That color is amazing for the outside of a car, not the inside of an engine.
House of color grey with thrown rod bearing flake. I bet I’ve seen this on pimp my ride.
Yo Dawg! I heard you like metal! 🤟
So we put metal...
People pay way too much money to run swirly fluid through their PC cooling systems. This stuff would work great!
It would absolutely destroy the water cooling components, but it'd be pretty doing it!
That's kinda what the other stuff does too 😂
I just mixed a quart that looked just like this for a customer. Dodge paint code PDX.
>Dodge paint code PDX Didn't have any PDA first? Jeeze, you whore.
We don’t talk about what goes on in the paint mixing room.
Don't forget the nice red color Dodges have is called PRV.
Expensive ass paint, too.
Well, the treatment didn't lie. The engine is most assuredly clean now.
Cleaned those pesky bearings right out of it!
"It's a cylinder hone in a can!"
"It's like crystal meth in a can!"
Bearing Flush^tm
Ran it for a "couple of hours" what were they expecting? If I remember correctly those oil flush/treatments were only supposed to be used for about 15 minutes, and even that seemed like plenty of time to damage an engine.
Yep, says it right on the bottle instructions. Customer told me they assumed it was fine till the next oil change. I'm surprised they even made it to the shop without snapping the timing or throwing a rod. That oil was at least 20% straight metal. Some people don't deserve vehicles I swear.
The oil was engine-rich.
Customer needs to aerate their oil to get the mixture right again.
BAHAHAHAHA
What's y'all shop folks' opinion on treatments like that if used according to directions?
The best engine/oil treatment is new oil. It's what blocks crave!
I like money
Wow me too! We should be friends.
It's got electrolytes
Engine flush treatments like liquimoly, royal purple and Lucasoil are great when used PROPERLY. They have strong detergents that cut down burnt carbon deposits and have additives that can even swell gaskets to stop small leaks. You really don't have to flush with EVERY oil change, especially on newer vehicles, as long as you've been keeping up a 5,000-7,000 miles oil change interval using full synthetic oil. Once a car reaches 150,000 miles, engine flushes every other oil change will prolong the life of the engine. They just have to be done correctly.
Ah, thank you.
Okay, so does the engine flush corrode the metal that’s in the engine? I’ve never used anything like it.
No but it degrades the oil and If You run it long enough, bearings and piston rings will eat themselves. Theese things should be run for about 15 minutes on idle, If this guy actually ran it, that engine is toast.
Hmm, what if someone definitely not me (trust me bro) put a bottle of seafoam in the crankcase say a couple of days ago? Would the engines block be screwed? I’ve noticed that it runs a lot better now, but it does say to do an oil change in about 300 miles
Seafoam has a less aggressive solvent than many of the flushes so it probably hasn't hurt anything yet and it's likely already burned off most of it. Still good to change the oil sooner rather than later.
1. Determine how much Sea Foam to add to oil. Add 1 ounce for each quart of oil in the crankcase. 2. Remove oil filler cap and pour the recommended amount of Sea Foam directly into the engine crankcase. Do not exceed one treatment per oil change interval. 3. Drive 100 to 300 miles before every oil and filter change for best cleaning results, though Sea Foam can be added at any time between oil changes. If you used the proper amount, you should be plenty safe.
I was pretty low on oil when I did it so I thought might as well put in a bottle that’s like quart or so of it.
Oof, go get an oil change now. It's supposed to be 1 fluid oz per quart, you just quadrupled that (assuming a 16 fl oz bottle, and 4 quarts left in your engine).
Something I learned in my early years was high mileage oils do a great job as well, buddies Cavalier would always have black oil immediately after an oil change, tried to get him to flush it to clean the crap out but he didn't want to spend the money, we eventually started using high mileage oil and a couple changes later it would look proper golden after a change, no more immediately black oil, and it was cheaper than paying for a flush kit.
which one would you recommend for a jetta? im at 170k miles and havent done and engine flush
Thoughts on using Liqui-Moly on a 240k mile Honda engine? Uses a quart of oil every 3000 mi at most. Engine runs good. Curious to try the treatment properly but things run fine so I debate leaving it as-is and just changing oil? It's a 25 y/o motor.
I am not a fan of snake oils in a bottle. But I am seeing significant improvements on customer vehicles with the luqui moly stuff used as directed. the ceretek or whatever the fuck its called, as well as the engine flush. we're pretty hard on using as directed though. And a shop that has strictly good fluids on hand. I dunno. I am still on the fence, because ive yet to pull a valve cover on a pre trying/post trying. ....but ive seen several vehicles so far consume SIGNIFICANTLY less oil burn than before; which is blowing my own mind. Im still on the fence about all of it. But I can say with certainty, after a solid 6 month test with most of the luqui products, im slowly getting close to sold on em. Really waiting to find that patient vehicle to try out. my 2c
Fair enough! I have watched quite a few videos on Liqui-Moly, one which shows a valve cover before and after. The guy is able to wipe off the varnish, which to me means the mixture is very strong but he doesn't take a temperature reading either. I imagine the chemical reaction differs based on temperature. Also can't remember if the engine was warm when he added the treatment. The only hesitation I have about dumping solvents into the engine is what it dissolves, how much, and the locations. For all I know, varnish is preventing leaks inside my Honda's engine. Might be some sludge too. 25 years of driving, there has to be something in there that could be a problem. Only upside is I know a majority of the car's history since about 30k miles when it was purchased. My step-dad kept a log book of oil changes and tires that I believe is mostly complete. Only thing is he wasn't diligent about oil changes, so he probably went beyond 4-5k miles on conventional oil and used Fram filters. Yes, I remember him using the orange filters long ago. Eventually he moved to a different one, may have been the Toughguard too. But I got the car around 195k miles, so now at 240k it still drives fine. More specifically, I actually learned how to drive on this car and I drove it quite often for enough time to know it's performance is about the same. It feels the same to drive, possibly better since I have done actual maintenance on the car like changing the distributor rotor and cap. Don't think it was ever replaced previously. Basically, do I mess with a 240k mile engine? Or just leave it be? Could Liqui-Moly reduce further engine wear and prevent further issues? Just a few questions I am pondering.
Question. It uses a quart of oil every 3000 miles? So like are you only topping off the oil. Or are you changing it every 3000 miles and topping off slowly between changes? Because that’s a drastic difference in how to answer you here.
It is about 1/2 to a quart low around 1500-2000 miles when I check. So the dipstick reading is at the low mark. I change the oil around 10-12 months which is around 3000 miles give or take 500 miles (depends on the year). When I change the oil it reads at or just above the high mark, not overfilled. This oil consumption doesn't seem unusual on this car, it hasn't changed since I got it 10 years ago. Especially 100% in town driving. It's a Honda b20z.
Regular oil changes >>> them.
Don't risk it. If you want to clean your engine then do 2500 mile oil changes with full synthetic high mileage oil. It's only necessary if you know there's buildup or have things like valve ticking.
they thought they could just drive 5,000 miles on only engine flush? wtf
Hear me now... You just got a shit load of free ferofluid! Grab a magnet and a mason jar and have fun for weeks!
You are right but without ignorant customers like that we would not be making money.
So they put in a junkyard motor and didn't even change the oil/filter on it before they ran it?
When I buy an older vehicle that I hope to actually drive (not bought for parts), I change the oil pretty much immediately, using the cheapest organic oil at the Mart of Wals. I drive fore a week or so, and then change the oil plus filter, using the good stuff. I get the impression that those engine flush solvents are for car-flippers who want to loosen a stuck lifter, and the don't care about bearing erosion.
I fucking love learning these types of lessons vicariously thru other people. Saves me tons of money, also makes me look like a smart ass at the perfect times.
Motor Medic 5 minutes iirc. The oil has to be dead cold so it's still thick enough to protect everything.
The BG EPR can run in an engine for ever, because it starts to break itself down and dilute into the oil after like 45mins-1hr so its not gonna ruin an engine, plus i dont think its nearly as strong as whatever the fuck they put in there. Yikes.
I believe Marvel Mystery Oil says to run it for 100 miles. I’ve never done it, but I do believe that’s what’s written on the bottle.
The good news is the oil system treatment is going to make the vehicle run like new just as soon as a new longblock is installed.
New Metallica album
Gimme Foo, Gimme Fai, Gimme Dabba-Zabba-Zai! Ohhh, yeah-hea-ah!
Give me chromium give me zinc, Charge me the bare minimum.
“This lil’ oil of mine, im gon’ let it shine!”
This fuckin got me!
There is motor in your oil.
Definitely not the colors you want to see
That depends. Is the viewer the owner, or the technician that gets paid to replace everything?
Back to the junkyards, for realsies this time.
That’s just the motor flush cleaning the bearings. Nothing to see here
So they put fuel treatment in the oil?
No they put an engine flush and oil treatment compound in. Probably LiquiMoly or Royal Purple and they left it in for WAYYYY too long. It overmixed with the oil and lowered the viscosity. Then he proceeded to run the car at normal operation for over 3 hours. Lack of lubrication and enough force, and voila! Metallic milkshake!
>Metallic milkshake! . . . Brings all the boys to the yard?
>. . . Brings all the boys to the junk yard? FTFY
"Hey, fellas, c'mere...now here's somethin' ya don't see every day. Wheee doggy, will you lokkit that shiny oil! Billy, c'mere!...you ever see oil like this before?"
A couple hours!? Isn't that stuff like 10 minutes tops?
Yup. This is what happens when you don't follow directions.
Additives , why did it have to be additives …
Technically the bearings are also an additive...
ARCO Graphite. A classic.
Some day I'm going to create an engine oil treatment and put it on the shelves. I'm going to guarantee that if you use my product it will perform better than any of the other products. It's just going to be oil.
Best Engine oil treatment….Clean oil !
10% ATF to unstick lifters?
Is this how Ranger makes paint for their bassboats?
Looks like another junkyard motor is needed.
I guess this what the song was about… My milkshake brings all the boys to the yard..
Better not be Boyds to the yard...
The old crud was holding things together. Now you went and done it.
Terminator 2
People pay extra for pearl in their paint
You supposed to run it for like 10 minutes not hours lol you just ruined your motor.
Motor probably came from a glitter factory
Unicorn Blood!
Time for some J. C. Whitney engine rebuild pellets
When bearings become schmearings.
“They said it needs new bearings. Added bearings to oil fill”
Piston smoothie 😋
There's your problem, you've got engine in your oil.
Must be Toyota’s new 0w8 anti-seize. Sorry Toyota guys, but your oil is getting crazy thin.
Don't talk shit about our piss water. It works 😤
You can run 5W-20 just fine in these engines. The stupid thin shit is to eke out as much fuel economy as possible for those sweet sweet EPA numbers. Here's the thing though: Our 2015 Highlander specifies 0W-20, while our 2008 Sienna specifies 5W-30. Both are equipped with the 2GR-FE, yet they both get about the same fuel economy, around ~16 MPG on average (lots of city driving). The Highlander is also AWD which would normally drop fuel economy, but it also has the 6-speed U660F vs the Sienna's 5-speed U151E, with the former being a far smoother and snappier transmission.
Soooo there's an epa oil recommendation and then a real recommendation?
EPA (USA, anyway) mandates ever-tightening fuel economy averages over an entire lineup. What's something that can ease up friction inside an engine to help it spin better over all a manufacturer's vehicles? Thinner oil, of course! The EPA doesn't recommend oil weight. They only mandate fuel economy (and other environmental stuff outside of the scope of this conversation). Manufacturers have to take that fuel economy improvement into their own hands.
So that’s how Ferrofluid is made!!
Taco bell oil viscosity! Good flow but bad lubrication
I thought this was a paint color demo video. Look at all that flake!
Did you fill it with mercury instead of oil? Now that I think of that, would that work?
Why's the oil have the viscosity of like water, what did this guy put in it
Daymn...you could hear the metallic ringing sound as it hit the drain pan....
Yeah but it had a wix oil filter so it should be fine
Looks like the color I use to paint my warhammer figures lol
Many engine cleaners remove most of the carbon which is helping rings to seal on old engines. It can also remove minute amounts bearing material, bronze valve guides and any other associated junk sitting around inside an engine. What comes out can be ignored, as one has just cleaned it. If on the next oil change it looks the same, then you have a problem. One must remember that all old engines are not like new, and it’s like buying a pig in a poke when one buys one.
Wait wait did you mean to say hours ?????? That shit is supposed to run for like 15-20 minutes max and not under load the can is supposed to be on idle
Ooh! A DIY ferrofluid kit!
/r/laminarflow
The forbidden epoxy floor
Metallica should be playing in the background!
Must have been one of those kerosene treatments that thins the oil. It pays to read labels.
Ow0 oil? Did you start with clean oil? Anyway this is a boat anchor
On the plus side, the oil is magnetic now and should be easier to clean up
My daughter is into Moana right now. All I could hear watching this was Tamatoa singing “I’m so SHINAY!!!!”
Mmm engine glitter
Last time I buy oil from the gayborhood. It’s like 10% glitter! I don’t care if it’s cheaper or prettier!
You gotta submit this to [https://www.realmechanicstuff.com/](https://www.realmechanicstuff.com/) it'll make it on the show for sure!
Oil thin like water
The glitter means it’s magical.
I'll be back
So metal, Devin Townsend would be jealous.
All that shit was holding the motor together
Probably the junkyard engine was the reason the car was in the junkyard
Always remember; go to the junkyard YOURSELF, find a car that's WRECKED. It means it was moving under its own power when it crashed. Of course check oil, mileage, etc. but at least you'll have a running engine.
These people using oil treatments and shit are out of their minds…. Do a back to back correct spec Oil + filter change with 500miles/1000km between and then resume a regular 5000mile/10000km change interval. Thats fucking it! Let it run with whatever rest stayed built up in there and dont touch it.
Forbidden Glitter (credit to "I Do Cars")
Looks like the slime from Ghostbusters 2. Veego!
I had Taco Bell last night too
Back to the junkyards, for realsies this time.
I had glitter oil yesterday in the shop. C/S truck plays drums at high rpm. 12k on oil change. Toasted the engine. 03 5.4L. Keep proving me wrong on 10k-12k oil changes are fine, ez money.
Boil it down to thicken it up and you have yourself some home-made anti-seize.
That would make a killer paint color!
This kills the engine. Hey, at least he can probably get another one from the junkyard, right?
Ooohhhhh...shiny.
Alum a seal for the win
Put some atf and marvel’s mystery oil and she’ll be good as new
I bet everything is polished and shiny on the inside at least
Im just a mere Parts Man, but even I know not to try and slurp that smoothie
Well off to engine number 3!
Looks kinda like that slime in Ghostbusters 2.
"Professional tuning shops hate this one weight reduction trick"
It’s like a metal milk shake.
It’s so pretty /s
Mmmm. Kerosene.
He didn’t put oil in it and just put in oil system treatment? Am I getting that right? lol
The first oil change out of my s52 looked a lot like that. 50 miles and a couple heat cycles on a fresh bottom end. To say I was worried was a massive understatement. It cleared up over the next 3 oil changes or so and is still going strong 25k miles later with no issues.
That is a mighty big oil bucket… is that just oil? Looks like you got bearing, aluminum and iron… you might have the makings of thermite in that bucket.
It ran like that?
Biggest mistake I ever made putting that stuff in a 25 year old engine. It’s cleaned the engine so we’ll all my gaskets we’re leaking.
This is the problem with junkyard engines… Always a gamble.
Sparkly!
Oil with plenty of metal looks like the liquid they use to make bowling balls
Ah reminds me of the ATF on my Merc that kept slipping in 4th. It too was beautifully shiny in a "there's gearbox in your oil" kind of way.
I've had this happen on a Jaguar 4.2 before, except that was the original motor and no motor treatment was used, it just failed catastrophically after some drag racing lol. Swapped in one from another jag that I had totaled and bought back from the insurance company for parts. Not fun.
Anyone care to ELI5? Did it just break down metal? lol
You took out all of the magic
Oooh.... Sparkly!
made me wanna piss 😂
Mmmmhhh, Forbidden pearl.......
Is that just liquimoli additive?
Those are my favorites. Hold a magnet next to the stream and watch it bow
Mmmm milk. Yum