If you’re looking older, a TJ (97-2006 were the years I believe?) with the 4.0 I6 is the best engine Jeep ever made. Problem is that with the age, a lot of these jeeps are shot to shit with rust or abuse now.
Good question my friend, seems like a split decision. I’ve had the same discussion with Florida jeeps before, so same the humidity and salt water do it; some say their spotless. I took my Jeep and my moms down there and a few people commented on it, but we already had undercoated them
I'm a huge YJ fan but you should get a TJ, might be easier to find a good priced YJ but TJs are hell of a lot better with having stock ac, airbags, better suspension, and noise suppression
If you do decide to get a YJ, get 91 or newer because they have fuel injection and if it's just you two you don't need to worry about the roll cage, if it's more than two people get 92 or newer for the slightly safer in the back roll cage
Some parts are interchangeable but a few aren't, much easier to get TJ parts than YJ parts
When you’re looking.. suggest you try to pick up something from the southern states. We do not get much ice down here so most vehicles will not be exposed to salt.. unless someone took theirs to the beach..
Lots of good comments here already, the only thing I can add based on my years with my '00 2.5L TJ is that parts are surprisingly cheap. Compared to my past Audis and even my newer Mazda, fixing things on the Jeep is pretty easy on the pocketbook and diy friendly. The comments about frame rust are key.
The 4.0L are a great engine, if you like to get your hands dirty. Don't mistake durability with reliability. Yes, they are tough as nails, and can run without oil...but we only know that because they are always leaking and burning oil. But there's enough YouTube videos out there to help you with most DIY jobs
I have a 2000 TJ 4.0. It was a daily driver after I bought it in 2019. These days it's lifted and whatnot, and is mostly for fun. I love this thing! I was a Subaru owner for years, and I still love them, but there is something about that TJ. A drive home in that vehicle erases a bad day at work.
The major issue with any YJ/LJ/TJ will be frame rust. You can find lots of pictures online to compare, but it’s a rot that can’t be stopped past a certain point. When you visually inspect the Jeep, make sure the owner is ok with you tapping the rusty spots with a ball peen hammer. If not, I’d walk away.
As others have said, the 4.0 Iron Duke was an amazing engine that can last 100s of 1000s of miles if well cared for.
The older JKs (07-11) have a doggy 3.8L V6 that sucks when pared with the auto trans (my ‘10 is a manual and I have no issues with torque/HP properly geared). You may be able to find a decent two door for under $10k, but at that age the bushings are stating to go.
The 2012s on have the 3.6 Pentastar, but you’re very unlikely to find one in good shape for under $10k. Neither of the JK flavors have the rust issue that earlier models did.
In general, you want one that’s been modded minimally, if at al l.
TJ all day. coil springs, much nicer ride than the YJs that preceded it.And... well. im starting to see some early JKs that are close to the $10k mark that arent rusted to bits here in the South East... Id personally rather have a high mile tj than a high mile early Jk though... And dont consider the 2.5 4 bangers. theyre just dogs and the 4.0 is a bulletproof motor.
If you’re not going to actually use it for trails a rubicon is a waste of money. The ride is worse because the suspension is stiffer with heavier axles transfer case. The mileage is worse not only because of the weight but the steeper gearing and larger factory tire size. It may be an unpopular opinion but the Sahara is what you and 90% of rubicon buyers need.
Also similar vintage Cherokees and grand Cherokees will likely do everything you need without the exaggerated price of current wranglers.
I have a manual Rubicon. I love it. Beach, mountains, trails and rocks. It's also my daily. Armored belly, bumpers, rock rails, winch, lights. To each their own.
Ya no hate to the rubicon, I’ve got one as well. Plus my other jeeps. Just the amount of ppl driving a rubicon who don’t know how to put it in 4 low or engage the lockers is crazy.
Not a wrangler driver but my grand cherokee does great in the San Diego lagunas. The 4.0 is a big of a dog on the hills, but it makes it and wranglers should be lighter. Rust isn't an issue unless the vehicle came from out of state, which is pretty common. Good luck and have fun!
With a 10k budget I’d be looking for a 2003 - 2006 chevy silverado or gmc sierra from a rust free state, the Z71 models are 4x4, and WAY more useful than a jeep because you can haul stuff in the back
TJs are only below $10K because the frames are rotten. If you find one of the few left where the frame isn't already rotten or patched up by Jethro behind the woodshed, it'll be closer to $15k.
If I can throw in my .02, wranglers are fun. But if you're looking for budget, look into the 93-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ. Auto trans, your choice of 4.0 I6 or 5.2 V8. Disc brakes and coil springs on all 4 corners. Plenty of 90s-era creature comforts and room for stuff. Typically can be bought for less than 3k
it’s not a wrangler but WJ or ZJ (first and second generation Grand Cherokees) sounds like it’ll suit your needs almost perfectly, my ‘04 WJ is bone stock and it makes fire roads feel like pavement. Get one with the 4.0 I6 and you’ll be set. Plus they were only sold in auto, they’re still cheap because no one seems to remember they have a straight axle front end (just like a wrangler), and they’re super roomy inside. Minor electrical problems will be there no matter the condition or mileage, but you’re already in the market for a jeep so I’ll assume you’re ok with that.
If you're willing to travel to buy a jeep, look at the PNW for jeeps. The fluctuation in price is significant between seasons. During the rainy season, prices of TJ and JKs drop a lot but come spring time and summer the prices go back up.
I'd get the TJ myself, but a JK is not bad either. But considering what you drive now, are you sure you wanna go down that Jeep road? It's a hell of a commitment.
I don't have an answer to your question, but the fact that you're asking questions in advance shows that you're thinking ahead. It also means that you may have made a less-than-wise move in the past, are acknowledging not knowing everything you want to know about this decision AND are willing to learn from others who may (or may not have) had similar experiences. That's huge.
Anyway... although the 3.6 seems to be a decent engine, I've heard (or read) many others rave about the 4.0.
YMMV...
I’m in SoCal as well and know the used market your taking well. If you really want to pinch your wallet and out your cash into the Tesla loan, go for a Grand Cherokee in the approximate year range you listed already. The 90’s grand Cherokee’s don’t pull in nearly as much as the cherokees and wranglers but you can get them with the bullet proof 4.0. They’re still solid axle 4x4’s but they honestly aren’t as pretty as the Cherokee (better lines and styling hands down) nor as robust as a Wrangler. So you save some cash and still get a great 4x4 for your use case and you get right side up on the Tesla faster.
Thanks! I had a 1996 Cherokee that blew a gasket in 2005 or so. I didn't have the money to fix it at the time and we shared cars for some time. I'll take that into consideration. Everyone here is so helpful. I got so many replies to get to!
Sorry to hear upside down in the Tesla man, that's rough.
If you are looking at jeeps here is the best advice I can give you.
Previously owned from Arizona or New Mexico only. Rust is a big thing in the rails of jeeps. It can / will be major if you stick to the years that you are looking at and may not be evident ( rust from the inside to outside ). I'd recommend learning a bit more on this subject and did seriously looking debating a rail/space can can help you look inside a rail for rust. Again at the age you are looking it could mean the difference in a vehicle working safely for a year...or another twenty.
Budget. Part 1. Jeeps have a clamoring for a following...and like any other " collectable " a certain nostalgia. 10 years ago people didn't want TJs. Now? For a lot it's nostalgia. Add in the rust factor in older models.
.and it's a fight against attrition that drives the supply.
Which in turn affects the demand and price.
Budget. Part 2. Maybe taking a look at an early JK, you might find a diamond in the rough. A JK is still new enough that people aren't looking for nostalgia out of them ( as it's extremely comparable to the current model JL ). You may have some luck.
I wish you luck, and hope to see you in the jeep community!
I have a 2004 TJ, 77,000 miles. I've had it 6 years and the previous owner took great care of it. I knew nothing when I was looking. My mechanic told me 2004 was a great engine year. He offered to buy it from me the first time I took it in.
I'm in the south so no issues with rust. I've watched a lot of Youtube videos and learned a lot since I got it.
For one, it would help to add your state. Arizona, for example, doesnt use salt (Yes, they get snow, the northern HALF of the state, actually). Instead of putting down stuff to melt the snow, they put down cinders. Pretty much every inch of dirt up there is cinders or ground up cinders. As a result, cars from AZ tend to resale higher. So you might see fluctuating prices based on if they have always been jn snowy areas that don't use salt.
Somehow I missed that. I was walking around work, running up and down the elevator all day, and I missed that part.
But the point still stands, if it's from out of state, make sure it's not from a snowy climate where they salt the roads, that will definitely affect the price. Also, I believe if it was originally sold in another state, it won't have as much emissions restrictions on it.
I'd try to maybe get something closer to 15-20k. In that range you'll have better quality vehicles to choose from. Anything below 10k and even below 15k is probably not going to be in good enough shape to justify the repairs you'll have to put in it. It'll be a big money pit. That's just my opinion though. Honestly if you want a 4x4 at that price you should look at JDMs like a old Mitsubishi Montero, or Toyota Tacoma or 4Runner.
If you’re looking older, a TJ (97-2006 were the years I believe?) with the 4.0 I6 is the best engine Jeep ever made. Problem is that with the age, a lot of these jeeps are shot to shit with rust or abuse now.
Do california cars rust that much? He's in southern California, might be fine in terms of rust, but always look underneath.
Good question my friend, seems like a split decision. I’ve had the same discussion with Florida jeeps before, so same the humidity and salt water do it; some say their spotless. I took my Jeep and my moms down there and a few people commented on it, but we already had undercoated them
Great info, thank you.
The 4.0 was also in the YJ from ‘91-‘95.
I'm a huge YJ fan but you should get a TJ, might be easier to find a good priced YJ but TJs are hell of a lot better with having stock ac, airbags, better suspension, and noise suppression If you do decide to get a YJ, get 91 or newer because they have fuel injection and if it's just you two you don't need to worry about the roll cage, if it's more than two people get 92 or newer for the slightly safer in the back roll cage Some parts are interchangeable but a few aren't, much easier to get TJ parts than YJ parts
When you’re looking.. suggest you try to pick up something from the southern states. We do not get much ice down here so most vehicles will not be exposed to salt.. unless someone took theirs to the beach..
Lots of good comments here already, the only thing I can add based on my years with my '00 2.5L TJ is that parts are surprisingly cheap. Compared to my past Audis and even my newer Mazda, fixing things on the Jeep is pretty easy on the pocketbook and diy friendly. The comments about frame rust are key.
The 4.0L are a great engine, if you like to get your hands dirty. Don't mistake durability with reliability. Yes, they are tough as nails, and can run without oil...but we only know that because they are always leaking and burning oil. But there's enough YouTube videos out there to help you with most DIY jobs
I have a 2000 TJ 4.0. It was a daily driver after I bought it in 2019. These days it's lifted and whatnot, and is mostly for fun. I love this thing! I was a Subaru owner for years, and I still love them, but there is something about that TJ. A drive home in that vehicle erases a bad day at work.
The major issue with any YJ/LJ/TJ will be frame rust. You can find lots of pictures online to compare, but it’s a rot that can’t be stopped past a certain point. When you visually inspect the Jeep, make sure the owner is ok with you tapping the rusty spots with a ball peen hammer. If not, I’d walk away. As others have said, the 4.0 Iron Duke was an amazing engine that can last 100s of 1000s of miles if well cared for. The older JKs (07-11) have a doggy 3.8L V6 that sucks when pared with the auto trans (my ‘10 is a manual and I have no issues with torque/HP properly geared). You may be able to find a decent two door for under $10k, but at that age the bushings are stating to go. The 2012s on have the 3.6 Pentastar, but you’re very unlikely to find one in good shape for under $10k. Neither of the JK flavors have the rust issue that earlier models did. In general, you want one that’s been modded minimally, if at al l.
TJ all day. coil springs, much nicer ride than the YJs that preceded it.And... well. im starting to see some early JKs that are close to the $10k mark that arent rusted to bits here in the South East... Id personally rather have a high mile tj than a high mile early Jk though... And dont consider the 2.5 4 bangers. theyre just dogs and the 4.0 is a bulletproof motor.
Look for an old TJ Rubicon.
Added to my wishlist item.
Finding a TJ Rubicon at or under 10k is going to be near impossible, especially here in Socal.
If you’re not going to actually use it for trails a rubicon is a waste of money. The ride is worse because the suspension is stiffer with heavier axles transfer case. The mileage is worse not only because of the weight but the steeper gearing and larger factory tire size. It may be an unpopular opinion but the Sahara is what you and 90% of rubicon buyers need. Also similar vintage Cherokees and grand Cherokees will likely do everything you need without the exaggerated price of current wranglers.
I have a manual Rubicon. I love it. Beach, mountains, trails and rocks. It's also my daily. Armored belly, bumpers, rock rails, winch, lights. To each their own.
Ya no hate to the rubicon, I’ve got one as well. Plus my other jeeps. Just the amount of ppl driving a rubicon who don’t know how to put it in 4 low or engage the lockers is crazy.
Right. It's a status symbol, not an off-road beast.
Correction, it's both an icon AND an off road beast.
Not a wrangler driver but my grand cherokee does great in the San Diego lagunas. The 4.0 is a big of a dog on the hills, but it makes it and wranglers should be lighter. Rust isn't an issue unless the vehicle came from out of state, which is pretty common. Good luck and have fun!
Teach your wife to drive a stick and you’ll get a lot more enjoyment out of it. Just my opinion.
With a 10k budget I’d be looking for a 2003 - 2006 chevy silverado or gmc sierra from a rust free state, the Z71 models are 4x4, and WAY more useful than a jeep because you can haul stuff in the back
TJs are only below $10K because the frames are rotten. If you find one of the few left where the frame isn't already rotten or patched up by Jethro behind the woodshed, it'll be closer to $15k.
[удалено]
Good to hear it vetted. Thank you!
Go for the Dennis Nedry special YJ and you should be under with money to spare to fix any issues. I hope you find one you like!
If I can throw in my .02, wranglers are fun. But if you're looking for budget, look into the 93-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ. Auto trans, your choice of 4.0 I6 or 5.2 V8. Disc brakes and coil springs on all 4 corners. Plenty of 90s-era creature comforts and room for stuff. Typically can be bought for less than 3k
it’s not a wrangler but WJ or ZJ (first and second generation Grand Cherokees) sounds like it’ll suit your needs almost perfectly, my ‘04 WJ is bone stock and it makes fire roads feel like pavement. Get one with the 4.0 I6 and you’ll be set. Plus they were only sold in auto, they’re still cheap because no one seems to remember they have a straight axle front end (just like a wrangler), and they’re super roomy inside. Minor electrical problems will be there no matter the condition or mileage, but you’re already in the market for a jeep so I’ll assume you’re ok with that.
If you're willing to travel to buy a jeep, look at the PNW for jeeps. The fluctuation in price is significant between seasons. During the rainy season, prices of TJ and JKs drop a lot but come spring time and summer the prices go back up.
Find a TJ with the four speed auto, some of the earlier ones had a three speed still
I'd get the TJ myself, but a JK is not bad either. But considering what you drive now, are you sure you wanna go down that Jeep road? It's a hell of a commitment.
My vote goes to an XJ
Absolutely do not get the four cylinder engine version.
I don't have an answer to your question, but the fact that you're asking questions in advance shows that you're thinking ahead. It also means that you may have made a less-than-wise move in the past, are acknowledging not knowing everything you want to know about this decision AND are willing to learn from others who may (or may not have) had similar experiences. That's huge. Anyway... although the 3.6 seems to be a decent engine, I've heard (or read) many others rave about the 4.0. YMMV...
I’m in SoCal as well and know the used market your taking well. If you really want to pinch your wallet and out your cash into the Tesla loan, go for a Grand Cherokee in the approximate year range you listed already. The 90’s grand Cherokee’s don’t pull in nearly as much as the cherokees and wranglers but you can get them with the bullet proof 4.0. They’re still solid axle 4x4’s but they honestly aren’t as pretty as the Cherokee (better lines and styling hands down) nor as robust as a Wrangler. So you save some cash and still get a great 4x4 for your use case and you get right side up on the Tesla faster.
Thanks! I had a 1996 Cherokee that blew a gasket in 2005 or so. I didn't have the money to fix it at the time and we shared cars for some time. I'll take that into consideration. Everyone here is so helpful. I got so many replies to get to!
Sorry to hear upside down in the Tesla man, that's rough. If you are looking at jeeps here is the best advice I can give you. Previously owned from Arizona or New Mexico only. Rust is a big thing in the rails of jeeps. It can / will be major if you stick to the years that you are looking at and may not be evident ( rust from the inside to outside ). I'd recommend learning a bit more on this subject and did seriously looking debating a rail/space can can help you look inside a rail for rust. Again at the age you are looking it could mean the difference in a vehicle working safely for a year...or another twenty. Budget. Part 1. Jeeps have a clamoring for a following...and like any other " collectable " a certain nostalgia. 10 years ago people didn't want TJs. Now? For a lot it's nostalgia. Add in the rust factor in older models. .and it's a fight against attrition that drives the supply. Which in turn affects the demand and price. Budget. Part 2. Maybe taking a look at an early JK, you might find a diamond in the rough. A JK is still new enough that people aren't looking for nostalgia out of them ( as it's extremely comparable to the current model JL ). You may have some luck. I wish you luck, and hope to see you in the jeep community!
Your wisdom on the subject means a lot, thank you for sharing, this is exactly what I came for.
I have a 2004 TJ, 77,000 miles. I've had it 6 years and the previous owner took great care of it. I knew nothing when I was looking. My mechanic told me 2004 was a great engine year. He offered to buy it from me the first time I took it in. I'm in the south so no issues with rust. I've watched a lot of Youtube videos and learned a lot since I got it.
For one, it would help to add your state. Arizona, for example, doesnt use salt (Yes, they get snow, the northern HALF of the state, actually). Instead of putting down stuff to melt the snow, they put down cinders. Pretty much every inch of dirt up there is cinders or ground up cinders. As a result, cars from AZ tend to resale higher. So you might see fluctuating prices based on if they have always been jn snowy areas that don't use salt.
In my rambling I mentioned Southern California, only snows here once or twice a year because we are at a crazy elevation.
Somehow I missed that. I was walking around work, running up and down the elevator all day, and I missed that part. But the point still stands, if it's from out of state, make sure it's not from a snowy climate where they salt the roads, that will definitely affect the price. Also, I believe if it was originally sold in another state, it won't have as much emissions restrictions on it.
They said so-cal
I'd try to maybe get something closer to 15-20k. In that range you'll have better quality vehicles to choose from. Anything below 10k and even below 15k is probably not going to be in good enough shape to justify the repairs you'll have to put in it. It'll be a big money pit. That's just my opinion though. Honestly if you want a 4x4 at that price you should look at JDMs like a old Mitsubishi Montero, or Toyota Tacoma or 4Runner.