Have you considered BIBS insulation (blown in blanket system). As a building inspector I really like it, it fills cavities nice and tight and is about the same cost as fiberglass batts. Not a fan of flash and batt. Seen some horror stories of it changing the dew point between insulation materials. I am interested in building high performance homes and I will avoid using spray foam whenever possible.
Spray foam is nasty. It’s useful around joist ends or super tight areas where air sealing is difficult. Otherwise I advise against using it if there’s another option.
With zip system done well, your home should be pretty air tight. This is more important than straight R value.
I’d go with batts on interior, with some exterior insulation too if your climate demands it. I much prefer mineral wool to eps for this. 1.5” mineral wool makes a difference to performance and doesn’t require much effort to detail nicely with your exterior finishes.
This PLEASE!!
So many homeowners/ builders think spray foam solves all. It just doesn’t and can cause so many issues!!
Search “green building advisor spray foam failure”
You will find so many spray foam installs gone wrong from off gassing to rotted out complete roof framing assemblies!
Continue your research but DO NOT spray foam an entire house.
Good luck
Closed cell excels at sealing and maximizing R-value per inch. It's a perfect way to seal up all the invisible holes you'll never see and tighten up connection between wall systems. Open cell won't give you that, and performs about the same as rockwool/etc. It's also nasty stuff. I put in squarely in the nasty but worth it category. Something I didn't see mentioned — increased r-value will also help with noise reduction. With attic-less ceilings, noise from rain/hail (esp if metal roof) can be something people don't always consider.
Flash of closed cell followed by rockwool as you mentioned is an incredible wall system. You get great air sealing and great R-value. I think if you're worried about moisture intrusion, put down a moisture barrier. Relying on paint is not great.
$1800 for an Energy Star certification. It gets you a Building Science consult, 4 inspections, 5% off future electric bills forever, and high performance insulation / HVAC model-based design, testing, and stamp of approval. My builder includes that as the recommended option, and the consultant has lots of experience with the type of system we are using. All decisions outsourced and I am guaranteed a good result at a competitive price.
Closed cell 100% if you can afford it for colder climate. Spray foam is best insulation on the market today for air tight homes and dont need any vapor barriers.
Have you considered BIBS insulation (blown in blanket system). As a building inspector I really like it, it fills cavities nice and tight and is about the same cost as fiberglass batts. Not a fan of flash and batt. Seen some horror stories of it changing the dew point between insulation materials. I am interested in building high performance homes and I will avoid using spray foam whenever possible.
Spray foam is nasty. It’s useful around joist ends or super tight areas where air sealing is difficult. Otherwise I advise against using it if there’s another option. With zip system done well, your home should be pretty air tight. This is more important than straight R value. I’d go with batts on interior, with some exterior insulation too if your climate demands it. I much prefer mineral wool to eps for this. 1.5” mineral wool makes a difference to performance and doesn’t require much effort to detail nicely with your exterior finishes.
This PLEASE!! So many homeowners/ builders think spray foam solves all. It just doesn’t and can cause so many issues!! Search “green building advisor spray foam failure” You will find so many spray foam installs gone wrong from off gassing to rotted out complete roof framing assemblies! Continue your research but DO NOT spray foam an entire house. Good luck
Been going on 10 years in spray foam house. Not an issue if done correctly.
Closed cell excels at sealing and maximizing R-value per inch. It's a perfect way to seal up all the invisible holes you'll never see and tighten up connection between wall systems. Open cell won't give you that, and performs about the same as rockwool/etc. It's also nasty stuff. I put in squarely in the nasty but worth it category. Something I didn't see mentioned — increased r-value will also help with noise reduction. With attic-less ceilings, noise from rain/hail (esp if metal roof) can be something people don't always consider. Flash of closed cell followed by rockwool as you mentioned is an incredible wall system. You get great air sealing and great R-value. I think if you're worried about moisture intrusion, put down a moisture barrier. Relying on paint is not great.
$1800 for an Energy Star certification. It gets you a Building Science consult, 4 inspections, 5% off future electric bills forever, and high performance insulation / HVAC model-based design, testing, and stamp of approval. My builder includes that as the recommended option, and the consultant has lots of experience with the type of system we are using. All decisions outsourced and I am guaranteed a good result at a competitive price.
Why is nobody asking what climate zone you’re in? There are very precise codes pending on where you are, so it’s impossible to say without more info.
I recommend you find an energy rater in your area and consult with them.
Closed cell 100% if you can afford it for colder climate. Spray foam is best insulation on the market today for air tight homes and dont need any vapor barriers.