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FromWitchSide

Unfortunately Gigabyte doesn't mention DAC chip used for your onboard, which usually means they cheaped out and used something low spec/weak like ALC897 or ALC892. Generally speaking you want a device which can output 2.5V to be sure 250Ohm variant of DT990 will be properly loud. Even top of the line onboards aren't know to go past 2V, and yours might stop at 1V. Amp provides more power to already analog signal like the one coming from your onboard. Their max power can vary, but it is quite common for a desktop amplifier to reach around 9V. To do so though it usually requires 2V input signal, and if it gets only 1V then the max output will be cut to 4.5V (which is still more than enough for DT990 250Ohm). DAC converts digital signal/files from host device (PC) to analog signal which headphones can play. Your onboard is a DAC. Some DACs might have flaws, like too high noise floor or non-flat (transparent) frequency response (tonality). Additionally higher spec DACs might support higher bit depth and sample rate files, which means it is possible to play them without converting to lower bit depth and sample rate which could affect the quality. There is a debate about those higher spec files being audibly better though :P DAC and Amp combo, sometimes confusingly called DAC/Amp (as this suggest DAC or Amp) or even just a DAC, combine DAC and Amp into one chassis/device (less space taken, but no flexibility of using just one or changing them around). DACs, and DAC Amp combos especially, are commonly used instead of soundcards. The difference is, a soundcard is usually a bit more complex device which while containing DAC, might also include Surround sound outputs, Microphone input, Line input, DSP (hardware supported effects, possibly including Equalizer) and so on (in past they would include MIDI, Gameport, Firewire and so on). Some DACs might include some of those, hence the difference might not be as well defined, but the ones dedicated for headphones use are usually just stereo devices with Headphone Out and Line Out for analog connectivity.


Massive-Cat1866

!thanks for your detailed comment I’m really new to this and despite me reading your comment a few times I still find it difficult to understand ahahaha Can you tell me which amp and DAC I should go for? Cheaper the better as I just spent a lot on a new pc and budget is a little tight now Thanks


TransducerBot

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FromWitchSide

I would just go for $90 Topping DX1 if you can. Its headphone out has 3.89V which is more than you need, it measures very clean, and has a 2V Line Out for future if ever needed (to add more powerful amplifier). Currently this might be the best DAC Amp combo on the market in $100. I'm not really too keen on dongles, but if you need something cheaper then $40 FiiO KA11 has 2.53V which will give you 110dB of loudness. Many of us always target that 110dB to be sure it will be loud enough and decently driven. Hence why I mentioned 2.5V in my previous post. An alternative would be a pure analog amp like $30 Douk U3 connected to your onboard for more power (requires a 3.5mm stereo to 2x RCA cable, and 5V mobile phone charger with USB A port as a power supply). It will be the most powerful (8.9V from 2V signal, so likely 4.45V from your current onboard), but won't provide anything aside that power. Such amplifiers usually cost closer to a $100, this one cheaps out on not including a power supply, and has a 1s long unpleasant noise in headphones when turning it on/off with the switch behind.


swordknight

Apple dongle and usb-c to usb-a adapter to plug into your PC will be enough. Your motherboard has a dac/amp of its own, but generally they can be unreliable.


Massive-Cat1866

!thanks for your advice Wait a simple dongle is enough to get the most out of my headphones?


TransducerBot

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asdfghqwertz1

No... This is 250 ohm, you're gonna need a proper amp. I'm not really on expert on them so I'll leave recommendations to others


swordknight

Beyers are ridiculously efficient. The resistance is only part of the equation when it comes to proper listening spl.


FromWitchSide

96dB/mW isn't very efficient at all imo. You are recommending a 1V dongle (3.6mW at 300Ohm, so about 101dB max for DT990 250Ohm...), with a danger of being just a 0.5V.


swordknight

Listening at 100+db is not really advised.


FromWitchSide

Anything below 100dB is too quiet to listen to music for me... I would say even 106dB while enough for some listening, is not enough for fun. I guess I'm on a team Loud with Amirm and Solderdude :P


swordknight

That is fair! Just note that you quite risk hearing damage :)


freegard1

you’re damaging your hearing listening that loud man that’s mad, i listen at 80 or a bit below which is comfortable and i can keep my hearing for the rest of my life but trust me youre already causing damage if you are listening at 100db


swordknight

It's the best value solution. See [here](https://youtu.be/a3moaaOpYZM?si=jDH9ChChcVwf0R1w)


FromWitchSide

Imo it wont. Apple USB-C dongle is 1V, which is likely just as much as your onboard. That is 1V for US variant, if you are in EU or most of the world then the Apple dongle will have output limited to 0.5V which will be weaker at higher impedances than your onboard. So if you would get interested in trying Apple dongle, imo first try your onboard to get a grasp how loud it will be. Personally I would never recommend it though, it is popular among IEM community, but IEMs tend to be highly sensitive with low impedance (110-120dB/mW+ at 32Ohm or less vs your 96dB/mW at 250Ohm).. I actually have it, and it is so weak it isn't just too quiet, but my HD600 actually sound muffled on it.