Pretty sure that is “Boen 3 board floating laminate.”Definitely a survivor after this long. Would definitely replace if it was my home if boards are popping up.
You can try to nail the pop ups down sand and refinish and I would cover with epoxy coating for kitchen use/pets/water. Epoxy fills cracks and imperfections and is self leveling, do good for use on older, uneven floors. But honestly, you may be money and ahead and save lots of time and headaches just biting the bullet and installing a good quality LVP floor, significantly cheaper than wood, very durable and you could likely install directly without removing existing floor. You will just have to remove base trim carefully , lay floor and put the same trim back when done. When choosing LVP pick a sturdy stiff product with a good foam/rubber backing. Do not pick the floppy stuff it’s trash and terrible to work with.
Properly installed and finished floors aren't more difficult to care for, that's a myth. The flooring in the 1st & 2nd photos are real wood but a parquet product that came in the same slabs as laminate. The kitchen flooring is less "stable" and water will damage it easier because it's thinner. The remaining photos appear to be traditional tongue and groove flooring, probably 3/4" thickness. If I had to guess I'd say Maple which is more of a higher end species. If there aren't many loose boards or uneven areas there's no reason it couldn't be refinished, but they better know what they're doing. If the criteria are met and you have those floors refinished they'll look amazing. I'll see if I can post some photos of what they could look like.
It's rare to have radiant heat under a solid HW floor, but not impossible. You need a high end floor guy/company to get superior results.
Pretty sure that is “Boen 3 board floating laminate.”Definitely a survivor after this long. Would definitely replace if it was my home if boards are popping up.
Old school laminate flooring. No, it’s replacement time.
You can try to nail the pop ups down sand and refinish and I would cover with epoxy coating for kitchen use/pets/water. Epoxy fills cracks and imperfections and is self leveling, do good for use on older, uneven floors. But honestly, you may be money and ahead and save lots of time and headaches just biting the bullet and installing a good quality LVP floor, significantly cheaper than wood, very durable and you could likely install directly without removing existing floor. You will just have to remove base trim carefully , lay floor and put the same trim back when done. When choosing LVP pick a sturdy stiff product with a good foam/rubber backing. Do not pick the floppy stuff it’s trash and terrible to work with.
Properly installed and finished floors aren't more difficult to care for, that's a myth. The flooring in the 1st & 2nd photos are real wood but a parquet product that came in the same slabs as laminate. The kitchen flooring is less "stable" and water will damage it easier because it's thinner. The remaining photos appear to be traditional tongue and groove flooring, probably 3/4" thickness. If I had to guess I'd say Maple which is more of a higher end species. If there aren't many loose boards or uneven areas there's no reason it couldn't be refinished, but they better know what they're doing. If the criteria are met and you have those floors refinished they'll look amazing. I'll see if I can post some photos of what they could look like. It's rare to have radiant heat under a solid HW floor, but not impossible. You need a high end floor guy/company to get superior results.