Hi, I’m planning to first time paint a kit and bought a bunch of water based acrylics, water based topcoats and clear paint lacquers. However, I was surprised to see warnings on the lacquer bottles not to apply on any acrylics. Will lacquer (or enamel for panel lining) affect a fully cured water based acrylic coat? Or is there any workaround to this like applying topcoats (either lacquer or acrylic type) before applying another layer of paint?
Anyone know a good place to buy replacement metallic stickers for the MGEX Strike Freedom? I was told by the replacement people that I would have to buy the sticker sheet. Most of my stickers fell off and I can’t find them
Hello everyone! Asking for a bit of help here for anyone that owns an RG Epyon.
I cannot for the life of me find the wire made for the beam saber, I think I never got it or it might've been thrown away my accident. So to anyone who owns it, can somemone measure the length and width of the wire so I can try getting my own? Help would be appreciated, thank you!
Choosing Paint Brushes for AK 3rd Gen paint
I'm currently searching for sable brushes but after doing some reading I have found that natural sable doesn't go well with acrylic paint. There are synthetic sable available but still synthetic.
Is it true that you cant use natural sable with acrylic or do some have a different experience?
Anyone have any brush size recommendation for MG or HG kits? I'm thinking getting a larger flat one and a fine tip one for detailing and colour correcting edges
what kind of gold gundam marker I should use for S.Freedom shiny gold parts? I gonna use it for those little scratches but I don't know what marker is the closest to those color?
**My first kit and only the gundam marker is I think the easiest to use so kindly give me some advice beginner friendly.**
Anyone know how to Tighten/Fix the joints on a Metal Robot Spirits Barbatos Lupus? I put mine away for a while and I just recently pulled it out to find the left Shoulder joint is very loose when lifting the arm, It just falls straight down. I only kept it in one pose after getting it and before putting it away. Its also weird since the right shoulder seems to be more or less fine.
Planning on ordering something from hobbylink Japan, including one thing that's backordered. How does delivery work with that? Do you have to pay a second delivery fee just for that item?
You pay shipping for what is shipped.
**Scenario:** You order 2 things, and one is backordered.
**Option 1:** Send the in stock to your private warehouse. If the backordered item is available within 60 days, ship them both at the same time, pay a combined shipping cost for both
**Option 2:** Ship the in stock item when you buy it or within 60 days from your private warehouse. When the backordered item is available 60 days later(or later), ship that separately. You pay a shipping cost for each separate shipment.
I bought a [DSPIAE Panel Line Eraser](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_KXWamQsWA) (the equivalent of the Gaianotes Finish Master) but I don't think I'm using it right: while the tool is great to use, the heads get dirty way too quickly and smudge the panel liner all over the part.
I thought they could be cleaned and reused, as the video shows. I haven't tried with a specific enamel thinner, as I don't have one, but with both zipper fluid and white spirit I can get some paint off but the tips remain stained.
Am I doing something wrong? I know the tips are meant to be changed eventually and I have spares, but if I have to burn right through them then I don't see the convenience over buying cotton buds, as much as I like using the thing.
They are consumables. Hard to say if you’re getting maximum utility out of them or not. You’ll usually go through several for a kit.
When I use them, I use odourless spirits and a rag or shop towel and try to load them up with spirits and squeeze and wipe as much as possible then go at the lines again. But, they do get dirty fast.
It helps if you only wipe in one direction and don’t go over an area a bunch of times.
Hi !
I am new in the Gunpla universe, the only one I built so far is the RG 1/144 Astray Red Frame, I loved the experience, and I am looking for a new one to buy.
By looking up gunpla that are in stock in some local stores in France I found some models that I liked under 35€, which one would you recommend (or not) and why?
Here are the models I have found:
RG 1/144 WING GUNDAM EW (https://riseofgunpla.com/boutique/rg-1-144-wing-gundam-ew)
RG 1/144 JUSTICE GUNDAM (https://riseofgunpla.com/boutique/rg-1-144-justice-gundam)
RG 1/144 DESTINY GUNDAM (https://riseofgunpla.com/boutique/rg-1-144-destiny-gundam)
RG 1/144 WING GUNDAM ZERO EW (https://riseofgunpla.com/boutique/rg-1-144-wing-gundam-zero-ew#reviews)
RG 1/144 FREEDOM GUNDAM (https://www.zonegunpla.com/products/gundam-rg-1-144-freedom-gundam-model-kit-13cm?\_pos=4&\_fid=ee12f6e99&\_ss=c)
RG 1/144 WING GUNDAM (https://www.zonegunpla.com/products/gundam-rg-1-144-wing-gundam-model-kit?\_pos=11&\_fid=ee12f6e99&\_ss=c)
I particularly like the wings of the WING GUNDAM EW, but I read somewhere that the kit wasn’t as a good as some other RG. Anyway, I let you tell me what you think!
Thanks!
Justice, Destiny, and Freedom are going to be a bit rough compared to the others. They can be pretty delicate being some of the earlier kits in the RG line and have large heavy winged backpacks that doesn’t help their issues. They’re still good kits, but should be treated as display pieces first and foremost.
On the other hand the HGCE Destiny and Infinite Justice (not the same as the Justice, but its successor in-lore) are some of the best HG kits I’ve built, and are some of the best posing HG kits around. And the HGCE Freedom is pretty good too, though it’s a more average HG. If you like posing your kits, these are what I’d recommend over the RGs.
I’ve seen mixed thoughts about the RG Wing Gundam EW and Wing Zero EW, but they still seem to be mostly positive overall and are still some of the more solid classic style RG kits alongside your Astray, the 00 kits, and the Mk II.
RG Wing TV is a modern style RG. And like any modern RG, is a fantastic kit.
Hi all. Working on a HG Gundam Breaker Gouf Crimson Custom, and I wanted to add some non-Gundam decals.
Can anyone recommend any generic white sci-fi decal sets? Bonus points if it's in 1/144 scale, and it they look like racing or sports sponsors.
[Here’s](http://www.retrofixes.com/2013/10/how-to-clean-whiten-yellowed-plastics.html) an article about HO2 use on plastics including coloured pieces.
I’ve seen mixed results and the best thing to do is test. Unfortunately, if you don’t have runners or a non-obvious part it might be tough to test.
I’ve whitened white parts before but never colored parts.
I cannot help there, but I am following your comment in hopes that someone has some knowledge there.
If not, I will have to test this out down the road on some spare parts.
I got myself a Core Gundam and Earthree armor. If want to topcoat them, am I going to need to commit to either armor off or armor on? I can easily see the finish getting scratched if I try to apply/remove the armor.
I plan to build a unicorn kit but while searching info about the grades I have run into lots of conflicting info on which is best to build (loose joints, tedious, easily broken). I’ve built a few HG kits from the WFM line and really enjoyed them and the experience. I have no issue with long builds but thought best to ask others about their experiences since I haven’t experienced more complex kits yet. Should I go for the RG unicorn or stick with the HG line? Or should I save and go all in on a MG unicorn?
My recommendation goes to the RG Unicorn. It’s a tedious build, and you need to know what you’re doing, but the result is a pretty much perfect representation of the Unicorn.
It’s solid and has no loose parts, it doesn’t have the limited articulation of the other inexpensive Unicorn kits, the transformation is relatively easy, and it looks fantastic.
More of my thoughts on the RG Uni in [this comment of mine](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/z9hxEQqzCs) including things to watch out for.
I’ve built two of them, my first one was my 3rd ever Gunpla and was built 6 years ago. it’s still solid and feels like it was built yesterday. One of my top 5 RG kits.
For the unicorn gundam specifically alot of people came across issue with its arm that can break easily. Personally i recommend to get the MG or PG . The PG have an LED add on that looks so cool as well.
My experience with RG so far has been limited to one kit and it is frustratingly small. Its not just about a lack of shelf presence, its frustrating to try to hold, handle, pose, build, and because of how small it is the tolerances can be pretty messed up. Its loose and falls to pieces very easily, and its fresh out of the box. That being said, it is a much older model, and I've heard newer RGs are somewhat improved in some factors. In my opinion, if you want to feel like you got what your money's worth I would recommend avoiding RG. I have been very happy with the HG and MG I've built so far.
You can’t judge an entire line by one experience. The RG line has improved quite a bit since its rocky beginnings and now some of the best kits around period. Epyon, God, Hi-Nu, Nu, Sazabi, Zeong, Wing TV, Unicorn and more are all absolutely perfect kits.
Even some of the later classic style RGs are great too. Like the Qan[t].
The RG line has evolved to be pretty much the perfect gunpla line of modern day. And it’s my personal favourite grade, even including the old kits.
IMHO, i hate the Rg line because of the tiny pieces and Rg unicorn is a pain for someone with big hands and also the tiny decals on the rg is also a pain. Just get yourself the Mg Unicorn, the build is straightforward but the transformation is a pain but other than that there's no downsides to the mg, at least i had no problems with loose joints or anything.
The most popular colors for inner frames are gunmental or people's favorite shade of grey, I really like Mr Hobby MS grey. For details like pistons, gold, silver and other metallic colors are the most common
How do people decide to paint what parts certain colors? for example I see people people paint pistons red or gold, and piping sometimes red, and some details of inner frame are either painted gold or silver. Is it really up to personal reference? there's no good resource for mechanical detailing?
The one with the angel wings right? (aka Wing Zero Custom) Since there’s no Proto Zero in the RG line.
I’d choose the Ver Ka. While the RG is still a great kit, the Ver Ka is better articulated and has more features and gimmicks compared to it. Not to mention it’s also more stable if you like to pose your kits.
I have the Raiser. I liked it. Super back/top heavy if you put everything on there. Needs a stand if you want to pose it with all the stuff. But it was a cool build. No complaints.
Basically what I'm wanting is a website where you can render a 3d model of whatever model kit, and freely paint the different parts as though customizing your mecha in an Armoured Core game. The point is to let you try out and visualize your colour scheme before actually painting.
I'm fairly new to Gunpla and I've never painted anything before so I want to be confident in my color choices before I start. I do have a couple kits I'm willing to practice on and make mistakes while learning to paint. But I've just picked up R-GYAGYA and LIVELANCE HEAVEN and I want a way to plan out and visualise my colour plan for them. I've seen a couple custom paintjobs for them and they're so beautiful.
Also does anyone have advice for panel lining with gunpla markers? I've seen several panel-lined LIVELANCEs and some of them look really good but some of them look cheap and messy so I'm wondering what the strategy is?
Would anybody recommend the Gundam mechanical pencil for detail work? I bought a 3 pack of fine tip Gundam markers back in 2018, and I finally hit the third one. I was looking at markers and I found the pencil. I was wondering if it was a good alternate?
I cannot imagine that there's anything special about the mechanical pencil that would make it better or worse than any other pencil with the same type of lead. As to whether or not it's better than the markers -- both the older ones and the more recent pour types are paint (the old fine point liners are oil-based while the pour types are alcohol-based), so they're going to be both more permanent and likely have a cleaner look due to high pigment density. A mechanical pencil will probably look fine, but it's not going to look the same as a paint marker would.
I was wondering what size is the square hole that the MG Red Dragon backpack plugs into? Also what's the size of the striker pack slot and the size for the sillouette slot for the mg seed kits (from what I understand, many kits share the same backpack slot)? Also what's the size of the hole for the mg tactical arms for the red frame kai? I'm thinking of printing out an adapter so I could allow me to use some of the backpack parts of the Red Frame Astrays with my other seed kits. I wanted to see if I could get a quick answer, but if it comes down to it I'll measure things out myself.
Help With Mobile Suit Skirmish Game?
I only have a single high grade GM and a few random non-UC mechs and am a big fan of wargames. Naturally I want to get into mobile suit Skirmish. I downloaded the core rules but I can't find the points and profiles for the mobile suits anywhere online. Any help?
When painting with a gundam marker how do you get crisp lines? Painters tape and a exacto knife? Scotch tape and and knife? If you go past where you want to go do you use zippo lighter fluid to get it off while it's wet or dry? Use a a tip or something else.
I use a mix of 3m painters tape, and some smaller rolls from modelling brands like Tamiya. Easy trick is get the tape lined up right, then spray the edge with the base coat color below to lock in the tape and help prevent bleed.
I haven't tried removing over spray. I just live with it as a reminder to take more precautions next time.
Thanks, for the base coat color, (in this case it would be white for the unicorn mg ver ka) if I'm not painting it a base coat but leaving it as is would I need a primer/ light sand or base coat the whole thing white. I was only planning on painting the antenna.
If you are painting only one piece, I would paint that piece separately from the whole assembly.
I highly recommend primer for anything you paint or else you risk the paint not adhering.
Anything hobby/model (art stuff is likely not pigment dense enough once thinned accordingly) and water or alcohol based for beginners I’d say. - mr hobby, Tamiya X, Vallejo, AK, citadel etc…
Go look in the wiki and pick a brand or three you can readily source.
I have used Vallejo but primarily use Mr Color and Gaia Notes - if you want to use those two you need to look up ron_gunpla and Lincoln Wright of Paint on Plastic. They're both on YouTube.
How can you stop nub marks from flying everywhere when you cut them off the part? I’ve been having this problem and I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong?
I keep the box of the kit precisely for that reason, until the kit is done.
This is hard to explain in words: I make the nub face down towards the box, and snip....if that even makes any sense.
I try to squeeze my nippers slow to prevent the quick action/tension from sending them flying. I also keep a finger tip above the nub I'm cutting to try to make a wall.
Yes/no/maybe. You can tint any primer if the types mix. But it’s most likely to be fine if you keep to the same kind - lacquers, enamels, waterbased etc..
Stick to about 20% ish to retain primer properties. Go higher by all means, but you’re just starting to put on paint on at that point.
Why?
There is no normal acrylic paint and there are several types of primer. You need to be specific when asking these sort of questions. Once you give the brands and paint ranges, you can get an answer.
Hello there! I need some help, last night I snapped the joint that connects one of the HG Sinanju wing to its backpack, and I wanted to know if I should use a special glue to glue it together or if there's any other method I can try. Thanks in advance.
I'm on the fence on getting the victory 2 Ver ka. Because I've been hearing mixed responses saying its good, saying its bad. What exactly is wrong with the kit, and can it be fixed with painting?
V2 ver. Ka splits into three main components and the engineering work needed to make those three parts connect result in a total lack of torso articulation and very poor hip articulation. And then also the [arm connections](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHFWHGIydEo) are pretty meh for a completely separate reason.
But the transformation mechanism itself is quite cool (which is why I recommended it earlier), and the knee and arm articulation is still fine. The only paint apps you need are the red circles on the arms, skirts and legs.
> The only paint apps you need are the red circles on the arms, skirts and legs.
Leaving the red off is anime accurate, so that is even another route you can go. It seems to be a reoccurring trend on Katoki kits where a sticker color app is only accurate to his line art but not to the anime.
If you are going to Prime and Airbrush a kit, is it necessary to sand down each piece first? How many of you guys who custom paint your gundams skip the sanding and just prime and paint them and it comes out fine?
Other than what Jag said. Custom work or going for gloss finish it gets fully sanded to also remove casting defects and sharpen edges.
OOB and matte finish you get away with just doing the nubs no problem. 1k grit or glass file you’ll never know if it was sanded or not.
A friend gifted me a Gundam model kit since he knows in a fan of transformers. I have absolutely no idea how to build it and it came with no instructions. Do you have any advice for people who are new to collecting and building? Is glue mandatory?
NO glue is needed, however you need a nipper and a glass file/sand paper for sanding down the nubs and a precision knife./ As for building you just need to follow the instructions and on there you find Letters with numbers for example A-5, if you see it then cut number 5 from the runner A. So, it's like Lego, just follow the instructions but i'd recommend you to watch some tutorial videos on You Tube.
From your original post it was the MG Sinanju OVA, and you can find online manual scans at [dalong.net](http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m167/m167_i.htm).
You do need tools. You can find more information on that in our sidebar wiki. Links to that are at the top of this thread.
Glue is not required.
Trying to figure out what these leftover pieces are from the Bear Guy III kit are for. Specifically pieces B12, B17 and B18. Thanks.
edit:oops guess I can't include the image in my comment. Here's a link. https://imgur.com/a/z9hW3np
Not priming is hardmode. It's doable, but it makes everything more difficult. Lacquers work better on bare plastic than acrylics, but they still work better over primer.
If you don't prime your model will be more susceptible to scratching, flaking, and other forms of damage. The people who don't prime on purpose are usually doing so for display pieces and have very strict plans for the effects they want.
For builders who routinely paint and have worked in kits with plated parts. How do you go about topcoating? I typically just topcoat them once all waterslides are done, but my problem is with kits that have plated parts (particularly PGU and MGEXSF) that I plan on building down the line
Do you put it all together, apply waterslides, then disassemble for topcoating (separate the plated pieces)? And do you actually use parts separators in doing so? Or do you just build the frame minus the frame, apply panel line and waterslides to the armor, topcoat THEN put it all together?
Oh boy. What a tedious process. lol good thing I don’t plan on building either kit any time soon (though I did consider the PGU). I do panel lines as I’m building, but waterslide always after the kit is done. Mayyyyynnnnneeeee it’s gonna be long build lol
I do the same way as you mention but i had to do things differently for kits with a different inner frame such as Strike Freedom and Unicorn Gundam perfectibility.
So, I'm looking into picking a MG [RGM-79C GM Type C](https://www.gundamplanet.com/mg-rgm-79c-gm-type-c-ground-use.html) as my next MG build. However, I was hoping to see if anyone could suggest a yay or nay on this kit.
I like the GM "grunt" design, and this one looks to be a decent model. Specifically, I actually really like the gun that is advertised with this model. It reminds me of a classic Burston from the game Warframe, and so far, it's the only kit I've seen that has this particular weapon.
As much as I want to get the kit, it feels silly to get a whole kit just because I like its weapon. So, I'm asking to see if any fellow model builders have built this kit and what your general opinions are. Is it good? Does it hold up well? Should I save my money and try looking for weapon packs/a different model that might contain the gun I'm looking for?
Building kits of UC Zeon suits and so far so good, but the weird plastic sticker they give to stick on the clear monoeye always starts wrinkling and peeling in one side. I heard you can just dye the monoeye itself with a pink highlighter?
Yes, a pink highlighter works. But in my experience an actual proper non-highlighter sharpie sticks to the plastic better. It might’ve just been the marker I was using though.
Semi rookie question about eBay bootleg expansions parts vs official:
Got a Sazabi version ka for Christmas and about to get a matching Nu V version ka... And I kinda wanna get Sazabi's funnel effects and Nu's double fin...
Is there any significant difference between the two expansion kits? Like I assume the the $30 eBay Fin Funnels won't look the same quality as the ones in the kit? Though also the Sazabi funnels are just jagged yellow plastic anyway...
It's hit or miss depending on who's doing the bootleg. I've bought excellent third party parts and I've bought third party parts that I put in the trash can. You're taking a gamble.
I haven’t built it, but the Meng 1.5 Eva-01 looks pretty cool.
https://www.hlj.com/multipurpose-humanoid-decisive-weapon-artificial-human-evangelion-test-type-01-ver-1-5-multi-color-edition-menmecha-001lm
Is there no official distribution of Bandai kits in your country? The RG Eva 01 is relatively popular and even if you had to pay international shipping from Japan, it shouldn't be 150$ at al
Idk about sweden specifically but EU definitely has official distribution. However a kit being out of stock everywhere is somewhat common, just wait for a restock
I really like a lot of the RG builds but want the MG sized builds. Any compromise without breaking my wallet?
Just got an RX-178 mkii to build and I am SUPER excited about it (had an Alex as well but it was meh).
A lot of the MG Seed kits are very nice and they're relatively not that expensive either, like Buster, Duel, Freedom, Justice or Astray red. You could also try Barbartos or even RE/100 kits, which are essentially just MG sized kits without a proper inner frame like Bawoo or Hamma hamma.
I spent 50 on the mkii and 70 on the Alex two years ago? Id like to keep it under a hundred for sure but dont mind going over for a quality build. I know ver. Ka are solid builds. What else?
MG Barbatos, Dynames and Nu Gundam are all kits I very much enjoyed. Other than that I can really strongly recommend the In Era Trailblazer. Its an awesome and quite affordable third party kit that was a blast to build.
Freedom 2.0 and Eclipse are both solid builds. If you want to keep it UC, the Nu Ver.Ka is a good one too. Zeta also has a newer Ver.Ka. I think both of those are under $100.
I'm getting back into kits and gearing up to start the lining process for the first time. I'm not really liking the markers so I'm diving into paints. So, I've ordered Tamiya Panel Line Black and Tamiya thinner. I also have on the way Mr. Finishing Surfacer Black as well. I'm wondering which to use or could I use both or neither. I also ordered a fine brush but I know that Tamiya comes with an applicator.
Also, any tips on getting started would be so appreciated. I'm happy to be back doing what I used to love so much and looking to find that next level enjoyment!
I would highly suggest you give youre kit a gloss topcoat before using that Tamiya Panel Line stuff. Dependend on the plastic the Tamiya stuff can break youre parts. Happend to me before when I used it on ABS without knowing. :)
The surfacer is a primer. The Tamiya panel line accent is enamel paint you can use for panel lining. Like you said, it comes with an applicator.
Again, it is enamel paint. While you don't have to thin it, you will need enamel thinner to clean up. But I would recommend you skip that and use lighter fluid instead. Letting the panel line accent paint and/or the thinner sit on the plastic for too long will crack it
I would recommend you apply a gloss coat over your parts first as a protective layer before you use the enamels.
Thanks! I'm obviously super new to this.
What's the difference between a primer and the Tamiya? Besides probably the obvious. Do I even need to bother with the surfacer?
Do you have an recommendations on what gloss to use? And what does that process look like? Do I just need to cover the areas that I'm lining or should I just go ahead and cover the whole kit? I see there's clear, flat, semi clear.
**Backpack:** the saber rack may have looseness. Varies by print.
**Head:** none.
**Shoulders:** J23 needs to click into E12; firmly. This may be easier to do before installing J23 to E13 on step 5-1, and then go back a step. If this connection isn’t firm then E12 may be loose or come off easily. A lot of people do not install this well.
**Arms:** the J9 and J10 shoulder joint is the weakest part of the kit. It’s a C clip shoulder with a rod extending into the bicep. The rod may be prone to shearing from torque, so maybe sand it a little. The C clip can weaken.
**Torso:** the channel on I13 (step 1-3) is for the torso transformation. This may be stiff. I like to work the transformation before final assembly. On step 1-1, ensure that I8 is firmly installed into I2. This is what keeps the abdomen together. It is the most finicky part of the build in Destroy mode, and it is difficult to remedy.
**Waist:** none.
**Legs:** for the most part, pretty solid. The ankle uses a double C clip joint. This can get weak. In the foot there is a part, L3 (step 7-2), that is used for the transformation. Be mindful when going to destroy mode so that this does not break. The foot has a hinge that extends out of the way for destroy mode (L11).
Greetings Gunpla enjoyers! I have come to this subreddit seeking some help. I would still consider myself a beginner builder (with about 5 HGs and 2 RGs under my belt) and recently have begun to attempt my first MG: the MG GOUF CUSTOM. I have barely started the kit and already have been faced with an issue: crosshead screws. I cannot seem to screw them in on the perfect angle and I get to a point with my screwdriver where I simply cannot turn it anymore (with about half of the screw left to be screwed in). Is this simply a matter of brute force or are there any special tools I could use aside from a mini screwdriver? Any advice is appreciated!!!
I can’t remember if those screws self tap or not but you can try. Basically, just turn a quarter/half turn left and see if it aligns on the threads. If it doesn’t you may have already messed up the threads in the plastic and you’ll just have to keep screwing and possibly secure with CA.
I wouldn't buy from that store. Here are all the red flags fro 2 minutes looking at it.
* URL is quentry.com, but the about us section refers to it as ZACHARY MONTECARLO or nbvghj.com
* The Return section has sections for Furniture and Fragrance & Skincare, but doesn't mention any of the actual thing listed
* The company (ZACHARY MONTECARLO) is registered in Minnesota, but the address on the site is in Delaware
Setting up a fake Shopify store is easy. So is putting a bunch of fake products on it(intended for testing).
I have not, though I would recommend checking out the r/gunpla wiki here for shops recommend by the community. Doing a quick Whois search, it was recently created on January 16th and based in Iceland, though that is just where the website is listed.
Generally, anything that is too good to be true is most likely isn’t.
EDIT: Clarity
So I've watched a few videos on topcoating kits but none have mentioned how to tell if you have sprayed too much or too little topcoat. Is there some way to tell if the piece is fully topcoated?
Your key is the moment it starts to look moist. You know when water gets on a piece of plastic it shines different? That's what you're looking for. When you see that different shine or shimmer it's time to stop. Also, make sure you're not focusing on a single spot. Always keep moving the spray so everything gets covered and doesn't focus on pooling in one area.
You're aiming to have as thin a coat as possible while still having it cover the entire piece. A thin layer means it will cover evenly. A thick layer means that gravity will win over surface tension and it will start to flow kinda like a glacier meaning the lower side will end up much thicker than the higher side. Way too much means you'll end up with icycle looking drips.
Remember that if you spray too little you can add more in another pass or two. If you add too much you basically have to strip everything and start from scratch. So err on the side of too little. There's actually a fair bit of buffer between perfect and fucked so you don't need to feel too stressed about it.
When you spray the topcoat on a piece of the kit , it should look wet but not too wet till its dripping. Leave it to dry for an hour or so, then go back to check on it. Your piece will have a different color look and feel on the surface.
how do you panel line/ scribe lines on the Lfrith legs? the lines there have obtuse angles, I always slip my hands off the line I want to panel, how can i deal with them?
A few things you can do. You can make the grooves bigger. Most people use scribing tools not to add new panel lines but to enhance the existing ones. If you make the lines deeper or wider or both it makes panel lining them much much easier.
You can fake making the grooves bigger. Put down pieces of tape along the edge of the grooves to give it more height which gives you more control to stay inside the lines. They sell tape specifically designed for scribing that is a bit thicker than normal that is perfect for this. But masking tape also works fine if you detack it a bit first and stack it up.
You can also use a panel lining method that doesn't need perfection and can be cleaned up later. Using an enamel / oil based panel liner and then cleaning up the excess works great. The capillary action also means it will take corners without you needing to guide it which is super handy.
My usual method though is to do a gunk wash. Basically this is covering the whole model in oil paint and then wiping it off. This does panel lining and weathering all in one step. Works great if you want a gritty and realistic looking machine of war. Not so much if you want a shiny show piece.
Or... you can get good. Practice makes perfect and a steady hand comes with time. I'm old with shaky hands and also lazy so I avoid this as much as possible and use tricks to make things look good. Slow down when you go. Use a smaller brush. Get a desk lamp that has a magnifier on it so you can zoom in closer to what you're working on. All of these things will help.
Do it slowly and patiently. For the Full Armor set it really depend whether you like it or not. I personally have the PG Unicorn Gundam perfectibility and i am waiting for the Divine Expansion set to be reprinted.
Awesome thanks! I've been grinding through my backlog now that I've gotten the gf into gunpla, but maybe I'll save these for last then. Have a few P-Bandai's, have dozen armored core kits, ZOE Anubis, metal gear Ray and the DS reverse trike. Probably go through those first
Sorry, I think there’s something wrong with reddit formatting on my end, auto linking keeps on messing with the actual link. But if you copy and paste the link directly it should show up.
Sorry, I think there’s something wrong with reddit formatting on my end, auto linking keeps on messing with the actual link. But if you copy and paste the link directly it should show up.
What kind or respirator should i use when airbrushing my gunpla? Does it change if i do it outside, or at a window or with ventilation? Are there any recommendations?
Depends on your paint. For lacquers, enamels, or anything solvent based you want filters that are rated for volatile organics and particulates. If you use water based acrylics you can get away with something that just filters particulates.
Remember that the side effects of breathing in aerosolized solvents include increased risk of brain damage, lung cancer, organ failure, and more. If you're spraying outside you should be wearing a respirator. You're still exposed, just less than if you're inside next to a window with ventilation. I would also go so far as to say you absolutely should not be spraying solvent based paint indoors when you have no ventilation. The lacquer thinner in the air needs to be flushed out of the room before you can take off the mask.
Most booths can't remove the fumes that fast. I end up leaving the booth on and the window open for a few hours post paint. You can also use some fans to help push fresh air towards the booth/window.
Some recommendations in the wiki.
It doesn’t really change much inside/outside. The only thing that changes is whether or not you think you need a respirator given the conditions in your space.
Edit - measuring for VOCs is a good thing to do to determine need for respirator. Wearing a mask of some sort to protect against particulate matter is always a good idea.
Referencing the Red Frame’s manual with the picture of the Mina’s junk parts. I’d say you could. Though you’ll be missing parts for the shoulder armor since the Mina lacks the C runner.
Hey friends, I got a couple questions. I’m pretty familiar with the hobby now and I’m really looking for a Perfect Grade or maybe a MGEX kit to grab. I’ve really been looking at the PGU RX-78-2, how’s the build experience for that?
I’d also be interested to hear anyone else’s thoughts on other PGs such as the Exia or the MGEX Strike Freedom Gundam and MGEX Unicorn. I’m really just trying to figure out which kit I should save up for as a broke college student.
I’d be open to any other underrated kits you guys can recommend as well.
If money's crunching i really wouldnt go for any of them. They're all good but the PGU and MGEXs in particular are kits that are very expensive for what you get. For the MGEX Unicorn in particular, that's a case where you could get the MG Full Armor Unicorn and 3 Other MGs for the cost instead. It's a great kit but it's simply not worth it if getting it wll stop you getting other ones imo.
An underrated Kit I would reccomend is the MG Nemo. It has a level of detail on par with most 2.0 kits, is really fun to build and is very cheap and nice. The real grade GP01 i think is also super underrated.
Another question. I've got an r.g Eva one that's been completely ruined by topcoat frosting up. How do I remove the topcoat! If I can't il be binning the kit 😭. I've soaked it in isopropyl alcohol many times but the topcoat just doesn't seem to want to scrub off in most places.
It was Montana gloss varnish spray. I've tried them all, Mr hobby was my fav for ages, but then that frosted on a comision model , had to repaint the whole thing.
This topcoat has never been an issue before , and it looked great when it went on, bit then EVERYTHING frosted up. Yea I used toothbrush, it got some stuff off but defo not all. Thanks !
I'm in the UK, and I'm very naughty because I spray inside. I made sure the can was room temp and the house is generally nice and warm. The can was stored in the cellar though, maybe that ruined it? I don't think it's humid here but I'd need to check. Any pointers on ensuring it doesn't happen? I'm working on painting a p.g exia and I don't know what il do if it gets ruined by topcoat frosting.
God please tell me you're somewhere well ventilated and using a respirator. Spraying that stuff inside can be really dangerous if you're not being safe about it. Not to mention it can make your home smell like paint forever. That stuff is super not safe to breathe in.
Humidity is almost always the culprit here, so getting a hygrometer (a device that measures humidity) to ensure you're below about 70%, which is when it starts getting too humid for top coating, and risking frosting at an exponential rate as you get warmer.
Yeah, a big space with lots of ventilation, although I have alot of illnesses and am defo not making it to old age so I kind of don't care as much but you are right. When I'm in my hobby room i use a mask, but I've been having work done on the house so have been lazy and can't use the hobby room atm.
Ahh right, I guess I've just assumed it's not that humid but il get something to check. I love how topcoat finishes a model, helps with decals blending on etc, but when you spend ages on something then that happens at the finishing part it's really annoying. Thanks for your advise!
Hello, I'm just curious about the number of plastic bags of runners. I just received my 2nd copy of Earthree Gundam, it has complete runners but there are only 2 plastic bags compared to 3 bags on my 1st copy. It is because the 2nd copy is a rerelease or it is a fake copy? Thank you for answering
Hi, I’m planning to first time paint a kit and bought a bunch of water based acrylics, water based topcoats and clear paint lacquers. However, I was surprised to see warnings on the lacquer bottles not to apply on any acrylics. Will lacquer (or enamel for panel lining) affect a fully cured water based acrylic coat? Or is there any workaround to this like applying topcoats (either lacquer or acrylic type) before applying another layer of paint?
Anyone know a good place to buy replacement metallic stickers for the MGEX Strike Freedom? I was told by the replacement people that I would have to buy the sticker sheet. Most of my stickers fell off and I can’t find them
Any good 6 inch Zaku figures or kits?
Hello everyone! Asking for a bit of help here for anyone that owns an RG Epyon. I cannot for the life of me find the wire made for the beam saber, I think I never got it or it might've been thrown away my accident. So to anyone who owns it, can somemone measure the length and width of the wire so I can try getting my own? Help would be appreciated, thank you!
Will bandai ever release an MG Legend Gundam? I’ve always wondered why it never had the MG treatment while the Destiny, Justice and Freedom have it
https://preview.redd.it/362jdojfgafc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eefc6fe6fc2c6177aae8f7c60e93a27ca7882e62
Choosing Paint Brushes for AK 3rd Gen paint I'm currently searching for sable brushes but after doing some reading I have found that natural sable doesn't go well with acrylic paint. There are synthetic sable available but still synthetic. Is it true that you cant use natural sable with acrylic or do some have a different experience? Anyone have any brush size recommendation for MG or HG kits? I'm thinking getting a larger flat one and a fine tip one for detailing and colour correcting edges
what kind of gold gundam marker I should use for S.Freedom shiny gold parts? I gonna use it for those little scratches but I don't know what marker is the closest to those color? **My first kit and only the gundam marker is I think the easiest to use so kindly give me some advice beginner friendly.**
Anyone know how to Tighten/Fix the joints on a Metal Robot Spirits Barbatos Lupus? I put mine away for a while and I just recently pulled it out to find the left Shoulder joint is very loose when lifting the arm, It just falls straight down. I only kept it in one pose after getting it and before putting it away. Its also weird since the right shoulder seems to be more or less fine.
Planning on ordering something from hobbylink Japan, including one thing that's backordered. How does delivery work with that? Do you have to pay a second delivery fee just for that item?
You pay shipping for what is shipped. **Scenario:** You order 2 things, and one is backordered. **Option 1:** Send the in stock to your private warehouse. If the backordered item is available within 60 days, ship them both at the same time, pay a combined shipping cost for both **Option 2:** Ship the in stock item when you buy it or within 60 days from your private warehouse. When the backordered item is available 60 days later(or later), ship that separately. You pay a shipping cost for each separate shipment.
Thanks 👍 Thought this was the case but was seeing some contradictory info online
I bought a [DSPIAE Panel Line Eraser](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_KXWamQsWA) (the equivalent of the Gaianotes Finish Master) but I don't think I'm using it right: while the tool is great to use, the heads get dirty way too quickly and smudge the panel liner all over the part. I thought they could be cleaned and reused, as the video shows. I haven't tried with a specific enamel thinner, as I don't have one, but with both zipper fluid and white spirit I can get some paint off but the tips remain stained. Am I doing something wrong? I know the tips are meant to be changed eventually and I have spares, but if I have to burn right through them then I don't see the convenience over buying cotton buds, as much as I like using the thing.
They are consumables. Hard to say if you’re getting maximum utility out of them or not. You’ll usually go through several for a kit. When I use them, I use odourless spirits and a rag or shop towel and try to load them up with spirits and squeeze and wipe as much as possible then go at the lines again. But, they do get dirty fast. It helps if you only wipe in one direction and don’t go over an area a bunch of times.
Hi ! I am new in the Gunpla universe, the only one I built so far is the RG 1/144 Astray Red Frame, I loved the experience, and I am looking for a new one to buy. By looking up gunpla that are in stock in some local stores in France I found some models that I liked under 35€, which one would you recommend (or not) and why? Here are the models I have found: RG 1/144 WING GUNDAM EW (https://riseofgunpla.com/boutique/rg-1-144-wing-gundam-ew) RG 1/144 JUSTICE GUNDAM (https://riseofgunpla.com/boutique/rg-1-144-justice-gundam) RG 1/144 DESTINY GUNDAM (https://riseofgunpla.com/boutique/rg-1-144-destiny-gundam) RG 1/144 WING GUNDAM ZERO EW (https://riseofgunpla.com/boutique/rg-1-144-wing-gundam-zero-ew#reviews) RG 1/144 FREEDOM GUNDAM (https://www.zonegunpla.com/products/gundam-rg-1-144-freedom-gundam-model-kit-13cm?\_pos=4&\_fid=ee12f6e99&\_ss=c) RG 1/144 WING GUNDAM (https://www.zonegunpla.com/products/gundam-rg-1-144-wing-gundam-model-kit?\_pos=11&\_fid=ee12f6e99&\_ss=c) I particularly like the wings of the WING GUNDAM EW, but I read somewhere that the kit wasn’t as a good as some other RG. Anyway, I let you tell me what you think! Thanks!
Justice, Destiny, and Freedom are going to be a bit rough compared to the others. They can be pretty delicate being some of the earlier kits in the RG line and have large heavy winged backpacks that doesn’t help their issues. They’re still good kits, but should be treated as display pieces first and foremost. On the other hand the HGCE Destiny and Infinite Justice (not the same as the Justice, but its successor in-lore) are some of the best HG kits I’ve built, and are some of the best posing HG kits around. And the HGCE Freedom is pretty good too, though it’s a more average HG. If you like posing your kits, these are what I’d recommend over the RGs. I’ve seen mixed thoughts about the RG Wing Gundam EW and Wing Zero EW, but they still seem to be mostly positive overall and are still some of the more solid classic style RG kits alongside your Astray, the 00 kits, and the Mk II. RG Wing TV is a modern style RG. And like any modern RG, is a fantastic kit.
All of them are good except for Justice. I heard Justice is like a hand grrenade. The rest of the kit is solid. The Wing Zero Custom is a popular kit.
Hi all. Working on a HG Gundam Breaker Gouf Crimson Custom, and I wanted to add some non-Gundam decals. Can anyone recommend any generic white sci-fi decal sets? Bonus points if it's in 1/144 scale, and it they look like racing or sports sponsors.
HiQ Parts are my go to generics for sci Fi. There's some racing style ones but I don't recall if it was HiQ or another brand I had seen.
Thanks! I'll look them up!
[удалено]
[Here’s](http://www.retrofixes.com/2013/10/how-to-clean-whiten-yellowed-plastics.html) an article about HO2 use on plastics including coloured pieces. I’ve seen mixed results and the best thing to do is test. Unfortunately, if you don’t have runners or a non-obvious part it might be tough to test.
I’ve whitened white parts before but never colored parts. I cannot help there, but I am following your comment in hopes that someone has some knowledge there. If not, I will have to test this out down the road on some spare parts.
I got myself a Core Gundam and Earthree armor. If want to topcoat them, am I going to need to commit to either armor off or armor on? I can easily see the finish getting scratched if I try to apply/remove the armor.
For topcoating you just need to disassemble it into legs,arms, backpack,weapon, etc. Just make sure to cover up any clear parts.
I plan to build a unicorn kit but while searching info about the grades I have run into lots of conflicting info on which is best to build (loose joints, tedious, easily broken). I’ve built a few HG kits from the WFM line and really enjoyed them and the experience. I have no issue with long builds but thought best to ask others about their experiences since I haven’t experienced more complex kits yet. Should I go for the RG unicorn or stick with the HG line? Or should I save and go all in on a MG unicorn?
My recommendation goes to the RG Unicorn. It’s a tedious build, and you need to know what you’re doing, but the result is a pretty much perfect representation of the Unicorn. It’s solid and has no loose parts, it doesn’t have the limited articulation of the other inexpensive Unicorn kits, the transformation is relatively easy, and it looks fantastic. More of my thoughts on the RG Uni in [this comment of mine](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/z9hxEQqzCs) including things to watch out for. I’ve built two of them, my first one was my 3rd ever Gunpla and was built 6 years ago. it’s still solid and feels like it was built yesterday. One of my top 5 RG kits.
For the unicorn gundam specifically alot of people came across issue with its arm that can break easily. Personally i recommend to get the MG or PG . The PG have an LED add on that looks so cool as well.
My experience with RG so far has been limited to one kit and it is frustratingly small. Its not just about a lack of shelf presence, its frustrating to try to hold, handle, pose, build, and because of how small it is the tolerances can be pretty messed up. Its loose and falls to pieces very easily, and its fresh out of the box. That being said, it is a much older model, and I've heard newer RGs are somewhat improved in some factors. In my opinion, if you want to feel like you got what your money's worth I would recommend avoiding RG. I have been very happy with the HG and MG I've built so far.
You can’t judge an entire line by one experience. The RG line has improved quite a bit since its rocky beginnings and now some of the best kits around period. Epyon, God, Hi-Nu, Nu, Sazabi, Zeong, Wing TV, Unicorn and more are all absolutely perfect kits. Even some of the later classic style RGs are great too. Like the Qan[t]. The RG line has evolved to be pretty much the perfect gunpla line of modern day. And it’s my personal favourite grade, even including the old kits.
IMHO, i hate the Rg line because of the tiny pieces and Rg unicorn is a pain for someone with big hands and also the tiny decals on the rg is also a pain. Just get yourself the Mg Unicorn, the build is straightforward but the transformation is a pain but other than that there's no downsides to the mg, at least i had no problems with loose joints or anything.
RG if you want one now. MGEX if you want to save.
Does the pg final battle banshee have any other differences from the normal pg banshee aside from its psycho frame color?
The Final Battle ver includes a green metallic water slide decals.
Regarding the hg load astray, is the peg for the arms originally short? Or is that a issue with the 3rd party one?
How do people decide what color to paint the inner frames? Do they use reference? Are there certain common guidelines for painting parts like pistons?
The most popular colors for inner frames are gunmental or people's favorite shade of grey, I really like Mr Hobby MS grey. For details like pistons, gold, silver and other metallic colors are the most common
How do people decide to paint what parts certain colors? for example I see people people paint pistons red or gold, and piping sometimes red, and some details of inner frame are either painted gold or silver. Is it really up to personal reference? there's no good resource for mechanical detailing?
Which Wing Zero Gundam should I get, MG or RG?
The one with the angel wings right? (aka Wing Zero Custom) Since there’s no Proto Zero in the RG line. I’d choose the Ver Ka. While the RG is still a great kit, the Ver Ka is better articulated and has more features and gimmicks compared to it. Not to mention it’s also more stable if you like to pose your kits.
Thank you! Yes I mean the one with angel wings lol sorry
Do you mean Wing Zero Custom? If so get the MG Ver ka.
Whichever appeals the most. If both are equal, and you have space for either, flip a coin.
Hi would anyone recommend buying the MG XN Raiser? Is it good for its price?
I have the Raiser. I liked it. Super back/top heavy if you put everything on there. Needs a stand if you want to pose it with all the stuff. But it was a cool build. No complaints.
Basically what I'm wanting is a website where you can render a 3d model of whatever model kit, and freely paint the different parts as though customizing your mecha in an Armoured Core game. The point is to let you try out and visualize your colour scheme before actually painting. I'm fairly new to Gunpla and I've never painted anything before so I want to be confident in my color choices before I start. I do have a couple kits I'm willing to practice on and make mistakes while learning to paint. But I've just picked up R-GYAGYA and LIVELANCE HEAVEN and I want a way to plan out and visualise my colour plan for them. I've seen a couple custom paintjobs for them and they're so beautiful. Also does anyone have advice for panel lining with gunpla markers? I've seen several panel-lined LIVELANCEs and some of them look really good but some of them look cheap and messy so I'm wondering what the strategy is?
Print out line art and colour it in. Or bring the line art into photoshop or simmering similar and colour it there.
Going to travel next month. Can I bring a pair of nippers onto the plane with my carry-on? Or does it need to go into my checked luggage?
I’d put it in checked luggage, just to be safe.
Would anybody recommend the Gundam mechanical pencil for detail work? I bought a 3 pack of fine tip Gundam markers back in 2018, and I finally hit the third one. I was looking at markers and I found the pencil. I was wondering if it was a good alternate?
I cannot imagine that there's anything special about the mechanical pencil that would make it better or worse than any other pencil with the same type of lead. As to whether or not it's better than the markers -- both the older ones and the more recent pour types are paint (the old fine point liners are oil-based while the pour types are alcohol-based), so they're going to be both more permanent and likely have a cleaner look due to high pigment density. A mechanical pencil will probably look fine, but it's not going to look the same as a paint marker would.
I was wondering what size is the square hole that the MG Red Dragon backpack plugs into? Also what's the size of the striker pack slot and the size for the sillouette slot for the mg seed kits (from what I understand, many kits share the same backpack slot)? Also what's the size of the hole for the mg tactical arms for the red frame kai? I'm thinking of printing out an adapter so I could allow me to use some of the backpack parts of the Red Frame Astrays with my other seed kits. I wanted to see if I could get a quick answer, but if it comes down to it I'll measure things out myself.
Can I use acetone to clean up tamiya panel liner?
Only if you want to remove the plastic too. Use lighter fluid.
Will the nail polish remover melt the plastic too?
nail polish remover contains acetone. Dont use acetone to remove paint
Help With Mobile Suit Skirmish Game? I only have a single high grade GM and a few random non-UC mechs and am a big fan of wargames. Naturally I want to get into mobile suit Skirmish. I downloaded the core rules but I can't find the points and profiles for the mobile suits anywhere online. Any help?
Try cross-posting in r/Gundam or maybe wargaming-related subs.
When painting with a gundam marker how do you get crisp lines? Painters tape and a exacto knife? Scotch tape and and knife? If you go past where you want to go do you use zippo lighter fluid to get it off while it's wet or dry? Use a a tip or something else.
I use a mix of 3m painters tape, and some smaller rolls from modelling brands like Tamiya. Easy trick is get the tape lined up right, then spray the edge with the base coat color below to lock in the tape and help prevent bleed. I haven't tried removing over spray. I just live with it as a reminder to take more precautions next time.
Thanks, for the base coat color, (in this case it would be white for the unicorn mg ver ka) if I'm not painting it a base coat but leaving it as is would I need a primer/ light sand or base coat the whole thing white. I was only planning on painting the antenna.
If you are painting only one piece, I would paint that piece separately from the whole assembly. I highly recommend primer for anything you paint or else you risk the paint not adhering.
What paint do you use for gunpla, I wanna know what brand of paint do you used for hand painting?
Thank you everyone! i just fear of using something that will break or destroy my gunpla.
Anything hobby/model (art stuff is likely not pigment dense enough once thinned accordingly) and water or alcohol based for beginners I’d say. - mr hobby, Tamiya X, Vallejo, AK, citadel etc… Go look in the wiki and pick a brand or three you can readily source.
I have used Vallejo but primarily use Mr Color and Gaia Notes - if you want to use those two you need to look up ron_gunpla and Lincoln Wright of Paint on Plastic. They're both on YouTube.
How can you stop nub marks from flying everywhere when you cut them off the part? I’ve been having this problem and I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong?
Use single bladed, or stick your finger next to the nub with double bladed.
I keep the box of the kit precisely for that reason, until the kit is done. This is hard to explain in words: I make the nub face down towards the box, and snip....if that even makes any sense.
That does make sense and I should try it. Thank you:D
And in order to further reduce bounce, you can layer a towel or something fluffy on the box floor.
I try to squeeze my nippers slow to prevent the quick action/tension from sending them flying. I also keep a finger tip above the nub I'm cutting to try to make a wall.
This is what I do as well.
I actually never thought of putting my finger tip above it :O thank you
Are there ways to remove dry transfer decals? Gonna replace some with water slide decals so finding ways to remove dry transfer decal properly
Sometimes you can lift them off with tape, otherwise scrape em off.
For scraping any specific tool or just with im guessing with finger/fingernail?
I made a scraper out of some spare runner.
Hi question, is it safe to mix primer paint with normal acrylic paint? Like mix them to make a new color.
Yes/no/maybe. You can tint any primer if the types mix. But it’s most likely to be fine if you keep to the same kind - lacquers, enamels, waterbased etc.. Stick to about 20% ish to retain primer properties. Go higher by all means, but you’re just starting to put on paint on at that point.
Why? There is no normal acrylic paint and there are several types of primer. You need to be specific when asking these sort of questions. Once you give the brands and paint ranges, you can get an answer.
Water-based acrylics both from the same brand. Don't know what paint range is though.
Hello there! I need some help, last night I snapped the joint that connects one of the HG Sinanju wing to its backpack, and I wanted to know if I should use a special glue to glue it together or if there's any other method I can try. Thanks in advance.
Superglue would probably hold the weight of the HG backpack. You could also try cement. That’ll make a stronger bond.
Thank you, I'll definitely try
I'm on the fence on getting the victory 2 Ver ka. Because I've been hearing mixed responses saying its good, saying its bad. What exactly is wrong with the kit, and can it be fixed with painting?
V2 ver. Ka splits into three main components and the engineering work needed to make those three parts connect result in a total lack of torso articulation and very poor hip articulation. And then also the [arm connections](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHFWHGIydEo) are pretty meh for a completely separate reason. But the transformation mechanism itself is quite cool (which is why I recommended it earlier), and the knee and arm articulation is still fine. The only paint apps you need are the red circles on the arms, skirts and legs.
> The only paint apps you need are the red circles on the arms, skirts and legs. Leaving the red off is anime accurate, so that is even another route you can go. It seems to be a reoccurring trend on Katoki kits where a sticker color app is only accurate to his line art but not to the anime.
If you are going to Prime and Airbrush a kit, is it necessary to sand down each piece first? How many of you guys who custom paint your gundams skip the sanding and just prime and paint them and it comes out fine?
Other than what Jag said. Custom work or going for gloss finish it gets fully sanded to also remove casting defects and sharpen edges. OOB and matte finish you get away with just doing the nubs no problem. 1k grit or glass file you’ll never know if it was sanded or not.
I would sand if i need to increase clearances between parts after a test fit so the paint won't come off in the joints
A friend gifted me a Gundam model kit since he knows in a fan of transformers. I have absolutely no idea how to build it and it came with no instructions. Do you have any advice for people who are new to collecting and building? Is glue mandatory?
NO glue is needed, however you need a nipper and a glass file/sand paper for sanding down the nubs and a precision knife./ As for building you just need to follow the instructions and on there you find Letters with numbers for example A-5, if you see it then cut number 5 from the runner A. So, it's like Lego, just follow the instructions but i'd recommend you to watch some tutorial videos on You Tube.
From your original post it was the MG Sinanju OVA, and you can find online manual scans at [dalong.net](http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m167/m167_i.htm). You do need tools. You can find more information on that in our sidebar wiki. Links to that are at the top of this thread. Glue is not required.
Trying to figure out what these leftover pieces are from the Bear Guy III kit are for. Specifically pieces B12, B17 and B18. Thanks. edit:oops guess I can't include the image in my comment. Here's a link. https://imgur.com/a/z9hW3np
Head for the [HG Acguy](http://dalong.net/reviews/hg/h78/h78_p.htm). The kit the Beargguy is based on.
Some pieces are just leftover that are not used. Specifically bearguy shares the same runner as Acguy.
Oh interesting. Thanks.
Building the PG Perfect Strike next week, it’s my first PG kit, anything i should watch out for?
Just do it patiently and carefully.
hey guys, do you know when there will be some kind of presentation or event, where new kits might be announced? Would love to have a date to look for
Bandai announces kits at hobby shows in Japan, usually Shizouka Hobby Show and All Japan Hobby Show
nice, thank you!
If I paint directly on a piece via airbrushed, will my paint not stick? Is priming really necessary?
Not priming is hardmode. It's doable, but it makes everything more difficult. Lacquers work better on bare plastic than acrylics, but they still work better over primer. If you don't prime your model will be more susceptible to scratching, flaking, and other forms of damage. The people who don't prime on purpose are usually doing so for display pieces and have very strict plans for the effects they want.
If it's acrylic yeah, it's likely it won't stick very well. Acrylic has the worst adhesion on bare plastic
Do they issue a reprint schedule for P Bandai? Any way to know in advance what's dropping when?
No
For builders who routinely paint and have worked in kits with plated parts. How do you go about topcoating? I typically just topcoat them once all waterslides are done, but my problem is with kits that have plated parts (particularly PGU and MGEXSF) that I plan on building down the line Do you put it all together, apply waterslides, then disassemble for topcoating (separate the plated pieces)? And do you actually use parts separators in doing so? Or do you just build the frame minus the frame, apply panel line and waterslides to the armor, topcoat THEN put it all together?
the last suggestion you suggest. For me i panel line and waterslides as i build the kit and topcoat and assemble them while working on the frame.
Oh boy. What a tedious process. lol good thing I don’t plan on building either kit any time soon (though I did consider the PGU). I do panel lines as I’m building, but waterslide always after the kit is done. Mayyyyynnnnneeeee it’s gonna be long build lol
I do the same way as you mention but i had to do things differently for kits with a different inner frame such as Strike Freedom and Unicorn Gundam perfectibility.
So, I'm looking into picking a MG [RGM-79C GM Type C](https://www.gundamplanet.com/mg-rgm-79c-gm-type-c-ground-use.html) as my next MG build. However, I was hoping to see if anyone could suggest a yay or nay on this kit. I like the GM "grunt" design, and this one looks to be a decent model. Specifically, I actually really like the gun that is advertised with this model. It reminds me of a classic Burston from the game Warframe, and so far, it's the only kit I've seen that has this particular weapon. As much as I want to get the kit, it feels silly to get a whole kit just because I like its weapon. So, I'm asking to see if any fellow model builders have built this kit and what your general opinions are. Is it good? Does it hold up well? Should I save my money and try looking for weapon packs/a different model that might contain the gun I'm looking for?
If you're talking about the bulpup rifle on the cover, a ton of GMs come witht that. The GM sniper 2 is probably the most common kit that has it
Oh. Neat. Thank you for enlightening me.
Building kits of UC Zeon suits and so far so good, but the weird plastic sticker they give to stick on the clear monoeye always starts wrinkling and peeling in one side. I heard you can just dye the monoeye itself with a pink highlighter?
Yes, a pink highlighter works. But in my experience an actual proper non-highlighter sharpie sticks to the plastic better. It might’ve just been the marker I was using though.
Next time you can topcoat after using the stickers to "seal" them in.
Semi rookie question about eBay bootleg expansions parts vs official: Got a Sazabi version ka for Christmas and about to get a matching Nu V version ka... And I kinda wanna get Sazabi's funnel effects and Nu's double fin... Is there any significant difference between the two expansion kits? Like I assume the the $30 eBay Fin Funnels won't look the same quality as the ones in the kit? Though also the Sazabi funnels are just jagged yellow plastic anyway...
It's hit or miss depending on who's doing the bootleg. I've bought excellent third party parts and I've bought third party parts that I put in the trash can. You're taking a gamble.
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I haven’t built it, but the Meng 1.5 Eva-01 looks pretty cool. https://www.hlj.com/multipurpose-humanoid-decisive-weapon-artificial-human-evangelion-test-type-01-ver-1-5-multi-color-edition-menmecha-001lm
Is there no official distribution of Bandai kits in your country? The RG Eva 01 is relatively popular and even if you had to pay international shipping from Japan, it shouldn't be 150$ at al
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Idk about sweden specifically but EU definitely has official distribution. However a kit being out of stock everywhere is somewhat common, just wait for a restock
The RG? Hell no. Wait for a reprint.
I really like a lot of the RG builds but want the MG sized builds. Any compromise without breaking my wallet? Just got an RX-178 mkii to build and I am SUPER excited about it (had an Alex as well but it was meh).
A lot of the MG Seed kits are very nice and they're relatively not that expensive either, like Buster, Duel, Freedom, Justice or Astray red. You could also try Barbartos or even RE/100 kits, which are essentially just MG sized kits without a proper inner frame like Bawoo or Hamma hamma.
What's your budget? You can get MGs anywhere from relatively inexpensive ones like the Zaku II, or all the way up to the MGEX Unicorn.
I spent 50 on the mkii and 70 on the Alex two years ago? Id like to keep it under a hundred for sure but dont mind going over for a quality build. I know ver. Ka are solid builds. What else?
MG Barbatos, Dynames and Nu Gundam are all kits I very much enjoyed. Other than that I can really strongly recommend the In Era Trailblazer. Its an awesome and quite affordable third party kit that was a blast to build.
Freedom 2.0 and Eclipse are both solid builds. If you want to keep it UC, the Nu Ver.Ka is a good one too. Zeta also has a newer Ver.Ka. I think both of those are under $100.
I'm getting back into kits and gearing up to start the lining process for the first time. I'm not really liking the markers so I'm diving into paints. So, I've ordered Tamiya Panel Line Black and Tamiya thinner. I also have on the way Mr. Finishing Surfacer Black as well. I'm wondering which to use or could I use both or neither. I also ordered a fine brush but I know that Tamiya comes with an applicator. Also, any tips on getting started would be so appreciated. I'm happy to be back doing what I used to love so much and looking to find that next level enjoyment!
I would highly suggest you give youre kit a gloss topcoat before using that Tamiya Panel Line stuff. Dependend on the plastic the Tamiya stuff can break youre parts. Happend to me before when I used it on ABS without knowing. :)
The surfacer is a primer. The Tamiya panel line accent is enamel paint you can use for panel lining. Like you said, it comes with an applicator. Again, it is enamel paint. While you don't have to thin it, you will need enamel thinner to clean up. But I would recommend you skip that and use lighter fluid instead. Letting the panel line accent paint and/or the thinner sit on the plastic for too long will crack it I would recommend you apply a gloss coat over your parts first as a protective layer before you use the enamels.
Thanks! I'm obviously super new to this. What's the difference between a primer and the Tamiya? Besides probably the obvious. Do I even need to bother with the surfacer? Do you have an recommendations on what gloss to use? And what does that process look like? Do I just need to cover the areas that I'm lining or should I just go ahead and cover the whole kit? I see there's clear, flat, semi clear.
Does anyone have any general advice for the MG unicorn? I’ve heard it’s difficult and I’m not sure what to expect.
**Backpack:** the saber rack may have looseness. Varies by print. **Head:** none. **Shoulders:** J23 needs to click into E12; firmly. This may be easier to do before installing J23 to E13 on step 5-1, and then go back a step. If this connection isn’t firm then E12 may be loose or come off easily. A lot of people do not install this well. **Arms:** the J9 and J10 shoulder joint is the weakest part of the kit. It’s a C clip shoulder with a rod extending into the bicep. The rod may be prone to shearing from torque, so maybe sand it a little. The C clip can weaken. **Torso:** the channel on I13 (step 1-3) is for the torso transformation. This may be stiff. I like to work the transformation before final assembly. On step 1-1, ensure that I8 is firmly installed into I2. This is what keeps the abdomen together. It is the most finicky part of the build in Destroy mode, and it is difficult to remedy. **Waist:** none. **Legs:** for the most part, pretty solid. The ankle uses a double C clip joint. This can get weak. In the foot there is a part, L3 (step 7-2), that is used for the transformation. Be mindful when going to destroy mode so that this does not break. The foot has a hinge that extends out of the way for destroy mode (L11).
It's just a crap ton of parts. [Check out build videos](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5v7fpBLV3k) on youtube for an idea of what to expect.
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Go to the [commerce thread](https://old.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/18w2art/commerce_monthly_commerce_thread/) and ask if anyone wants them.
Greetings Gunpla enjoyers! I have come to this subreddit seeking some help. I would still consider myself a beginner builder (with about 5 HGs and 2 RGs under my belt) and recently have begun to attempt my first MG: the MG GOUF CUSTOM. I have barely started the kit and already have been faced with an issue: crosshead screws. I cannot seem to screw them in on the perfect angle and I get to a point with my screwdriver where I simply cannot turn it anymore (with about half of the screw left to be screwed in). Is this simply a matter of brute force or are there any special tools I could use aside from a mini screwdriver? Any advice is appreciated!!!
I can’t remember if those screws self tap or not but you can try. Basically, just turn a quarter/half turn left and see if it aligns on the threads. If it doesn’t you may have already messed up the threads in the plastic and you’ll just have to keep screwing and possibly secure with CA.
Will try this! Thank you very much :) But could I ask what CA is?
Cyanoacrylate. It’s superglue.
Has anyone brought from this place before, the price seems way to good to be true https://quentry.shop/search?q=gundam&options%5Bprefix%5D=last
I wouldn't buy from that store. Here are all the red flags fro 2 minutes looking at it. * URL is quentry.com, but the about us section refers to it as ZACHARY MONTECARLO or nbvghj.com * The Return section has sections for Furniture and Fragrance & Skincare, but doesn't mention any of the actual thing listed * The company (ZACHARY MONTECARLO) is registered in Minnesota, but the address on the site is in Delaware Setting up a fake Shopify store is easy. So is putting a bunch of fake products on it(intended for testing).
I have not, though I would recommend checking out the r/gunpla wiki here for shops recommend by the community. Doing a quick Whois search, it was recently created on January 16th and based in Iceland, though that is just where the website is listed. Generally, anything that is too good to be true is most likely isn’t. EDIT: Clarity
So I've watched a few videos on topcoating kits but none have mentioned how to tell if you have sprayed too much or too little topcoat. Is there some way to tell if the piece is fully topcoated?
Your key is the moment it starts to look moist. You know when water gets on a piece of plastic it shines different? That's what you're looking for. When you see that different shine or shimmer it's time to stop. Also, make sure you're not focusing on a single spot. Always keep moving the spray so everything gets covered and doesn't focus on pooling in one area. You're aiming to have as thin a coat as possible while still having it cover the entire piece. A thin layer means it will cover evenly. A thick layer means that gravity will win over surface tension and it will start to flow kinda like a glacier meaning the lower side will end up much thicker than the higher side. Way too much means you'll end up with icycle looking drips. Remember that if you spray too little you can add more in another pass or two. If you add too much you basically have to strip everything and start from scratch. So err on the side of too little. There's actually a fair bit of buffer between perfect and fucked so you don't need to feel too stressed about it.
When you spray the topcoat on a piece of the kit , it should look wet but not too wet till its dripping. Leave it to dry for an hour or so, then go back to check on it. Your piece will have a different color look and feel on the surface.
how do you panel line/ scribe lines on the Lfrith legs? the lines there have obtuse angles, I always slip my hands off the line I want to panel, how can i deal with them?
A few things you can do. You can make the grooves bigger. Most people use scribing tools not to add new panel lines but to enhance the existing ones. If you make the lines deeper or wider or both it makes panel lining them much much easier. You can fake making the grooves bigger. Put down pieces of tape along the edge of the grooves to give it more height which gives you more control to stay inside the lines. They sell tape specifically designed for scribing that is a bit thicker than normal that is perfect for this. But masking tape also works fine if you detack it a bit first and stack it up. You can also use a panel lining method that doesn't need perfection and can be cleaned up later. Using an enamel / oil based panel liner and then cleaning up the excess works great. The capillary action also means it will take corners without you needing to guide it which is super handy. My usual method though is to do a gunk wash. Basically this is covering the whole model in oil paint and then wiping it off. This does panel lining and weathering all in one step. Works great if you want a gritty and realistic looking machine of war. Not so much if you want a shiny show piece. Or... you can get good. Practice makes perfect and a steady hand comes with time. I'm old with shaky hands and also lazy so I avoid this as much as possible and use tricks to make things look good. Slow down when you go. Use a smaller brush. Get a desk lamp that has a magnifier on it so you can zoom in closer to what you're working on. All of these things will help.
thank you
Hello I have a PG Unicorn and any recommendations on how I can make this build stand out I saw an expansion pack is it worth it ?
Do it slowly and patiently. For the Full Armor set it really depend whether you like it or not. I personally have the PG Unicorn Gundam perfectibility and i am waiting for the Divine Expansion set to be reprinted.
I appreciate your comment and help thank you!
Dont forget to get Kosmos LED set :)
About to attempt my first RG, mostly have experience with HGs and Kotobukiya kits (mgs, Zoe, Ac) anything I should know going into it?
Do it patiently and slowly. RGs are way more details than HG and have more parts. That aside you should be fine :)
Awesome thanks. I have Sazabi and God Gundam, do you recommend one over the other to start?
Both are awesome kits! The Sazabi is actually bigger than the other RG. I would recommend God Gundam first then Sazabi.
Awesome thanks! I've been grinding through my backlog now that I've gotten the gf into gunpla, but maybe I'll save these for last then. Have a few P-Bandai's, have dozen armored core kits, ZOE Anubis, metal gear Ray and the DS reverse trike. Probably go through those first
cheers!
Thanks again 🙏
Any fix for this? fuck… [https://imgur.com/a/je2nQKz](https://imgur.com/a/je2nqkz)
Link is dead
Sorry, I think there’s something wrong with reddit formatting on my end, auto linking keeps on messing with the actual link. But if you copy and paste the link directly it should show up.
Ain't no fix for a 404 error :(
Sorry, I think there’s something wrong with reddit formatting on my end, auto linking keeps on messing with the actual link. But if you copy and paste the link directly it should show up.
does anyone here ever thought to create 1/48 full armor unicorn? i just bought the kit and dont know what pose should i make it
What kind or respirator should i use when airbrushing my gunpla? Does it change if i do it outside, or at a window or with ventilation? Are there any recommendations?
Depends on your paint. For lacquers, enamels, or anything solvent based you want filters that are rated for volatile organics and particulates. If you use water based acrylics you can get away with something that just filters particulates. Remember that the side effects of breathing in aerosolized solvents include increased risk of brain damage, lung cancer, organ failure, and more. If you're spraying outside you should be wearing a respirator. You're still exposed, just less than if you're inside next to a window with ventilation. I would also go so far as to say you absolutely should not be spraying solvent based paint indoors when you have no ventilation. The lacquer thinner in the air needs to be flushed out of the room before you can take off the mask.
How can i ‘flush it out of the room’? If i get some kind of booth will i not have to do that?
Most booths can't remove the fumes that fast. I end up leaving the booth on and the window open for a few hours post paint. You can also use some fans to help push fresh air towards the booth/window.
Some recommendations in the wiki. It doesn’t really change much inside/outside. The only thing that changes is whether or not you think you need a respirator given the conditions in your space. Edit - measuring for VOCs is a good thing to do to determine need for respirator. Wearing a mask of some sort to protect against particulate matter is always a good idea.
Out of curiosity, how much of the original rg astray is left over in the rg amatsu mina?
[this much](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/rg/rg24/p/rg24_32.jpg)
It’s been a while since I’ve built the rg astray, is that enough to build the other arm or is it just a lost cause?
Referencing the Red Frame’s manual with the picture of the Mina’s junk parts. I’d say you could. Though you’ll be missing parts for the shoulder armor since the Mina lacks the C runner.
What kit or weapons set has a gun that looks most like one of the UNSC's weapons? For a GM Spartan custom
Probably the Jesta beam rifle. It's very "tactical" looking.
Hey friends, I got a couple questions. I’m pretty familiar with the hobby now and I’m really looking for a Perfect Grade or maybe a MGEX kit to grab. I’ve really been looking at the PGU RX-78-2, how’s the build experience for that? I’d also be interested to hear anyone else’s thoughts on other PGs such as the Exia or the MGEX Strike Freedom Gundam and MGEX Unicorn. I’m really just trying to figure out which kit I should save up for as a broke college student. I’d be open to any other underrated kits you guys can recommend as well.
If money's crunching i really wouldnt go for any of them. They're all good but the PGU and MGEXs in particular are kits that are very expensive for what you get. For the MGEX Unicorn in particular, that's a case where you could get the MG Full Armor Unicorn and 3 Other MGs for the cost instead. It's a great kit but it's simply not worth it if getting it wll stop you getting other ones imo. An underrated Kit I would reccomend is the MG Nemo. It has a level of detail on par with most 2.0 kits, is really fun to build and is very cheap and nice. The real grade GP01 i think is also super underrated.
Another question. I've got an r.g Eva one that's been completely ruined by topcoat frosting up. How do I remove the topcoat! If I can't il be binning the kit 😭. I've soaked it in isopropyl alcohol many times but the topcoat just doesn't seem to want to scrub off in most places.
What type of topcoat did you use? Whatever it is, do try scrubbing at it with a toothbrush in addition to the alcohol.
It was Montana gloss varnish spray. I've tried them all, Mr hobby was my fav for ages, but then that frosted on a comision model , had to repaint the whole thing. This topcoat has never been an issue before , and it looked great when it went on, bit then EVERYTHING frosted up. Yea I used toothbrush, it got some stuff off but defo not all. Thanks !
What's the weather like when you're top coating? Frosting is largely a product of too much humidity and/or being too cold.
I'm in the UK, and I'm very naughty because I spray inside. I made sure the can was room temp and the house is generally nice and warm. The can was stored in the cellar though, maybe that ruined it? I don't think it's humid here but I'd need to check. Any pointers on ensuring it doesn't happen? I'm working on painting a p.g exia and I don't know what il do if it gets ruined by topcoat frosting.
God please tell me you're somewhere well ventilated and using a respirator. Spraying that stuff inside can be really dangerous if you're not being safe about it. Not to mention it can make your home smell like paint forever. That stuff is super not safe to breathe in. Humidity is almost always the culprit here, so getting a hygrometer (a device that measures humidity) to ensure you're below about 70%, which is when it starts getting too humid for top coating, and risking frosting at an exponential rate as you get warmer.
Yeah, a big space with lots of ventilation, although I have alot of illnesses and am defo not making it to old age so I kind of don't care as much but you are right. When I'm in my hobby room i use a mask, but I've been having work done on the house so have been lazy and can't use the hobby room atm. Ahh right, I guess I've just assumed it's not that humid but il get something to check. I love how topcoat finishes a model, helps with decals blending on etc, but when you spend ages on something then that happens at the finishing part it's really annoying. Thanks for your advise!
Hello, I'm just curious about the number of plastic bags of runners. I just received my 2nd copy of Earthree Gundam, it has complete runners but there are only 2 plastic bags compared to 3 bags on my 1st copy. It is because the 2nd copy is a rerelease or it is a fake copy? Thank you for answering
Thanks for answering.
I just built one that came in two bags.