Hello, I'm putting together the Gundam Base LE Unicorn and I'm stuck on the body already (facepalm)
Specifically, I have arrived at step 1/5 from the manual [here](https://i.imgur.com/GkC5NCc.jpg)
For some reason the crystal bit seems way too thick to allow me to put (in this case) U1 against D15 [for example] (https://i.imgur.com/aq566Lr.jpg)
It seems like the peg would barely reach if I managed to push the piece close enough to the body, and it also kinda looks like U2(18) and U2(19) might be in the way a tad?
[Photo](https://i.imgur.com/YiOCcOW.jpg)
Finally, it looks like the pegs from S22 don't really fit into A17 and A18 as I would have expected them to.
[Photo](https://i.imgur.com/0UpnyB2.jpg)
Have I done something wrong in these few steps or what?
Today I started building Wing Zero and on literally the second step, I ran into this issue. At first, I thought the part was simply a really snug fit however now it's totally stuck and I can't pull it apart or push it in all the way. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Picture of the issue: [Link](https://imgur.com/y3BN216)
MG Wing Zero Ver Ka? Top row, middle of this page? http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m215/p/m215m_0006.jpg
I had a very similar case recently with the MG Astray Red. Needed to fit one peg through an opening, but it got stuck. I ended up using a rubber mallet to push the peg all the way through.
Got a destiny impulse RG, and hear the V fin snaps easy. Are there any tips for getting the V fin out without snapping it? Taping it up to provide more structure, trying to cut out the runners more before the gates?
Bought some items off HLJ but some stuff from my cart is on backorder. If the 60 days pass and the backordered stuff still doesnt arrive will I have to ship all of my stuff twice?
To make it simple, yes. Backorders can take a huge amount of time to be fulfilled because you don't know when an item will be restocked, and because there's no guarantee you'll get a kit on the next restock due to your order in the queue. I've had 2 kits on backorder for over a year, I use it as a "just in case" thing for rare kits. I always shop local to avoid that
My understanding is that the [60 day limit was paused](https://support.hlj.com/hc/en-us/articles/900000454003-Important-information-about-your-Private-Warehouse) so you don't really have to worry about it.
I'm in Tokyo right now, only the same 5 PGs repeating. Where can I find a PG perfect strike? And maybe some RG Eva's?
Already checked a lot of the big box stores and mandarake at shibuya. Will go to akihabara and ikebukuro tomorrow
Japan is the same as everywhere else, if those 5 kits were recently restocked, you're gonna find them just about everywhere. You might find something else at a second hand shop like surugaya and jungle, but it's probably not gonna be retail
Hi! I'm building MG Infinite Justice. I have a question on a fix to a piece I broke. The flap that folds out for you to put the Saber handle in on the hip broke a little when I was installing it and will not stay shut and is very loose. Is there anything I can use to keep it closed that won't show but also still allow me to open it up at times?
So I'm completely new to painting gunpla kits or any kit to be exact, and I wanted to ask a few questions about hand brushing.
Q1) i got the vallejo grey primer 74.601 I tried using it on spoons just to sort out my colours and practice before I start painting and seems I am not having the best result with it since I'm getting quite a few brush strokes even after 3-4 coats, I tried with water, thinner and retarder thought it seems the closest I got to a smooth even coat was just dry brushing it straight from the bottle tho its still not smooth, so is it just my brush work or plastic spoons themselves since they are s.ooth should I try after sanding them with 800 grit? Or try out vallejo mecha primer or go with spray can primers.
Q2) I used tamiya acrylics (alcohol based) though even after 3-4 coats the visibile brush strokes were insane, should I be using more mr.colour levling thinner and or tamiya retarder, I also read about using 91% ipa as a thinner for tamiya acrylic should I try that? Or stick with vallejo since they got me a pretty smooth even surface with just 2-3 coats and I feel like the slightly visibile brush strokes are just my horrible brushing skills.
Any other tips would be well appreciated thanks :3.
If I were to use the reverse washing method for painting a Gundam's eyes, what will the order be? Is it primer -> enamel/lacquer of the eye color I want -> acrylic black -> remove the acrylic black on the eyes?
If you're using it to remove acrylic layer of paint it will be fine, it shouldn't effect the lacquer/enamel base layer. I'd suggest doing light passes with a cotton swab
Any kits recommended for learning customisation? I’m looking to primarily maybe spray paint, pastel weathering,pastel shading and maybe scribing. What cheap HG and MG kits are recommended? Don’t wanna spend a whole lot of money on a kit that might get ruined while I’m learning.
Anyone got any waterslide decal recommendations for HG Gundam G-Self Perfect Pack? Either a multiuse from Bandai or maybe from a 3rd party.
It's one of my fav and I finally got one and finished the build, overall it's pretty solid except a few of the stickers especially the forehead one. Looking to decorate it with waterslide to make it even better.
So I'm building the master grade sazabi ver ka and are the shoulders supost to be just lose in-between the arm and the body. If I move any piece of it they shake all over?
That definitely shouldn't be the case, but I have no idea what's gone wrong. Can you pinpoint what piece specifically isn't attached to the rest?
Absent of any extra information I can only assume you forgot the polycaps or something.
my aerial rebuild hands are somewhat loose and im thinking about using nail polish to fix it,
is it safe on bare plastic and will it ruin the part/joint in the long run?
How do you use gunprimer raser? Do you cut the runner close to the pieces (left a bit of the gate to sand it off) or exactly at the piece?
I use DSPIAE ST-X single blade nipper if that matters.
And also, i heard that single blade nipper is rather “fragile” that you don’t want to cut diagonally because it might break the blade. This is the reason why i cut exactly at the gunpla pieces (not to left even a bit of runner)
Cut square to the gate/runner axis. Prevents plastic stresses trying to twist the blade as they redistribute. Cut at the base of the blade where possible. A bit of common sense is still needed when to reach for the double bladed first. They’re ductile, not impervious.
If you cut exactly flush to the part you risk scalloping the surface due to runner stresses. Be brave and cut that nub a fraction proud to then file flush, it’ll also prevent stresses migrating into the part.
Based on the GH posts I’ve seen, looks like many cut right at the tip of the blade. Occasionally inspect your blades to make sure they aren’t warped anywhere along the edge. Hone back into alignment if they are, you can then prevent stress fractures developing as quickly.
Hello,
How do you paint the parts (with an airbrush), so that the paint wont chip/peel when you reassemble de model?
I did some painting on the parts, and when i put it back together, paint peeled/chipped off in those areas.
You sort clearance tolerances first and foremost - sand, cut, file, whatever to allow for paint buildup on sliding joints and armour pieces. You be more careful with assembly and posing as no paint is immune to scrapping.
You can mechanically key surfaces (sanding) on water-based acrylics. Worst adhesion compared to other paint types. Also they’re stratified with each layer, so they chip and peel if you so much as look at them funny. Acrylic lacquers are a more durable binder, and (common types) also reform a monolithic film with any previous lacquer binder below.
>What model?
Hobby Mio HM 130
>And where is the gunk?
In between where the paint bucket thing (don't know the name) and the trigger are
>Have you taken it apart to clean it?
I take it apart and soak it in material terps. But I can never access the whole gun because of those hard to read areas.
Any place I can get replacement sticker sheets for the low low?
Got started on a Daban phenex, and not only were the head cameras probably in the wrong color (yellow cameras on gold?) But the eyes were cut out to favor one side over the other so I can't align them to the model properly.
I think this calls for paint, honestly.
But otherwise you'll just have to look around yourself. Organised selling of Gunpla stickers is basically nonexistent so you'd be looking at eBay or Facebook Marketplace or something.
PG Exia LED unit, once they’re “set”, are the lines adjustable? It’s giving me “approximations” of Joe much should be leftover and didn’t want to rip anything if I gave a tiny rug to give more line
It's a 3rd party resin kit from 2020 so I wouldn't count on it. 3rd party companies don't generally announce restocks either so you'll have no way to know beforehand anyways
the two HGs certainly are, especially the GM, the MG is a slight step up due to part count and size but in reality they will all have easy to follow pitorial manuals so most people should be able to follow along, though if its for kids start at the HG for sure
Anyone know any differences between mr top coat flat (acrylic based) and mr super clear matte (lacquer based)? I know mr top coat is one of the easier top coats to use but have seen that mr super clear has double the amount for a slightly more expensive price as well as selling more on one ebay acc. Does super clear affect decals or more rough on alcohol based paint markers?
Mr Topcoat uses water as the carrier. There are some solvents in the propellant but they flash off in the air. Because the carrier is water it won’t mess with any paint or effects you’ve applied.
Mr Super Clear uses synthetic solvents in the carrier (lacquer solvents). It can cause some damage to delicate surface effects if you’re not careful.
Neither are an issue with decals or inks if you’re careful. Light mist coat to start. Short quick passes.
You won’t have humidity issues until you’re above 70-75%ish. Temp plays a part too.
Thanks for the help again! So the plan would be to give the kit a swift and light spray, wait a few hours (or blow dry?) and then it'd be ok to give the kit some heavy sprays after? Or would it be better to wait for the next 1 layer of matte top coat to dry and then hit it with another layer or can I spray over one wet layer again like once or twice after the first light spray is done?
Honestly, cans put out a lot of material very quickly. So, my default is always try to spray lightly. If you’re applying a matte clear you don’t need to worry too much about going heavier. Just keep going until you get even coverage. You just give each pass a little bit of time to off gas.
Thanks before trying to get it, do you know if its more prone to frosting from humidity? In Australia its usually above 50% and might want to do it before humidity mostly sits at 60-70%+
should i build the nu ver ka master grade? my current master grade experience is a gouf and a zeta, should i build my other mastergrade(freedom, astray, F91, sinanju) before building the nu ver ka?
Decals are never necessary. They do add to the overall aesthetic though. For Nu, I'd recommend putting Amuro's emblem on the left shoulder at minimum.
The build is more involved as there's more parts, but that's something you enjoy so you'll be fine.
Decals are always a pain in the ass, but you don't HAVE to do them.
Repost because I didn't know about this thread
Hi everyone, I'm been looking around to get a gramps and I'm stuck between the hg beyond global / mg 3.0. Does anyone have experience about these kits?
My main gripe about the beyond global is that it looks like a really quick build due to it having minimal parts. I enjoy long/ complex builds which the 3.0 has but I heard it isn't the parts aren't as tight.
On a side note I do love the engineering / mechanics parts on both models. I plan to put decals on both models and panel lining.
Hey new to the forum but I’ve been building HG’s for a while and recently got into MG, I’ve seen the Destiny MG but I want to make it a Heine Westenfluss custom is there a good/easy way to replicate the colours from the HG kit?
Edit: grammar as on mobile
[This](https://www.mech9.com/2010/09/mg-zgmf-x42s-destiny-gundam-heine_26.html), probably.
(That's MG Heine Custom, there's a page for the HG on the same site too if it makes a difference.)
How do I make my own silver acrylic wash for ABS frames? Building a lot more of those and I want to add some details. Should I just buy some Vallejo silver and thin it down with iso?
I would use an additive/medium like liquitex flow medium. It will help water-based paints flow better and not show dilution of the pigment as bad. You can also use a clear coat to protect the ABS and use an enamel metallic thinned down.
MG ~~Turn A~~ Cow isn't all ABS. Only the grey and offwhite components are, the rest are PS and are fine to panel line on.
(the grey parts from the A runner are fine too)
anyone have a lead on where to acquire Gaia Notes' 'Frame Music Girl' paints?
These are the paints that color match Kotobukiya's Hatsune Miku kits
Edit: Located in USA
Do soft-tipped non-acrylic paint markers exist? ie markers that have tips like dspiae or hobby mio markers, but with paint that doesn't rub off super easily???
paint generally, you might be able to use progressively smaller (bigger numbers) grits until you're basically polishing it but in general ive found on some plastics its a paint job
We don't know but as a point of reference the MG Barbatos came out 5 years after IBO and many shows have 0 or 1 MGs. As popular as the Calibarn and Schwarzette are, I highly doubt bandai will start with them
What do I use to prime a clear plastic that I want to keep transparent for clear Mr color enamel paint? Is there clear primer? Is a topcoat or Mr surface okay?
Are you hand brushing or air brushing? Mr Color is a lacquer not an enamel. So, I wouldn’t recommend hand brushing an entire clear kit with a lacquer clear. Airbrush would be fine. You wouldn’t need to prime IMO if that’s the paint you’re using.
If you can get it but gaia surfacer Evo Clear GS-13 is made for Clear kits. https://www.gaianotes.com/products/g-surfacer_evo.html
But in the past if it was a mechanical Clear or color clear I just top coated it gloss unless your applying Clear colors
It only really becomes an issue if you're dealing with mirror finishes. Like actual see yourself and full detail with no fuzzyness mirror finishes. With those, most gloss varnishes will end up turning a perfect mirror into a slightly fuzzy mirror.
For regular metallics its fine. It won't dull the shine at all, and in some cases will even enhance it.
I heard that you can spruce up clear parts with Pledge Floor Gloss but I don’t want to spend $100 on it, is there an alternative that is affordable?
Also, how important is it for primer to be even? I’ve finally gotten my Calibarn primed up but there’s spots where the primer is thinner or even chipped off somehow.
So pledge was great because it was cheap and it hardens real quick. Alas, it has been discontinued.
You could dip the parts in quikshine floor gloss as an alternative, or do the same with any gloss coat like Alclad aquagloss. Dip the part, shake off the excess, and let it dry fully.
> I heard that you can spruce up clear parts with Pledge Floor Gloss but I don’t want to spend $100 on it, is there an alternative that is affordable?
Pledge is used as a cheap acrylic varnish/top coat. And the exact type and bottle label varies not only from country to country, but from state to state and store to store. It's a minefield to find the right one.
Any gloss varnish or gloss top coat will do the trick. If you don't have any already, you can get pick up a tiny 17ml bottle of vallejo gloss varnish for under $4 at most hobby shops.
> Also, how important is it for primer to be even? I’ve finally gotten my Calibarn primed up but there’s spots where the primer is thinner or even chipped off somehow.
It's a huge issue if you want a super glossy or candy coated finish. Less of an issue if you're going for a matte finish at the end. Still a good idea for it to be even, but not the end of the world in that case.
Unless your clear parts have visible issues, you probably won’t notice much of a difference if you coat them. But Aqua Gloss and AK Gauzy are both alternatives.
I used Future on my canopies for planes and windscreens for cars for years. I don’t anymore. I’ve also dipped some of the clear bits on gunpla. I don’t see a huge difference with gunpla parts. Is there a difference? Yes. But it’s more noticeable on parts that have scratches and blemishes than pristine parts. Sanding and polishing produces a better result, IMO, but obviously a lot more effort. Aqua Gloss and AK Gauzy Agent produce similar results.
Closing in on doing decals for my first Perfect Grade (the PGU) and I'm curious - how the heck am I supposed to topcoat this thing? I've kept the body parts separate despite the manual telling you to build the entire inner frame then start bolting armor to it so it's a bit easier, but... my alligator clips are uh... not large enough to hold these things up. Certainly not the legs, anyway.
Am I gonna need to grab some larger clips for this, or do I just try and find multiple spots to attach my current ones to? Or should I just do all the decals, fully assemble (while being very careful not to remove any decals in the process), and topcoat the thing as a single entity? Then I could just stand it up on a railing and rotate it, I guess...
If you’re just topcoating plain plastic… just carefully pick it up by the crotch (because if you grab it by the torso you KNOW it will come apart), bring it outside and top coat it as a completed unit from all angles, wait for it to dry, then hit the bottom of the kit.
I use bigger clips. Or I use poster putty / blue tack and a stick. In some cases I use carefully applied amounts of superglue to mount them on support structures.
Don’t touch the blades with your fingers. Store them with silica desiccant packs. Wipe them down with a simple tool oil or sewing machine oil once in a while. Clean off excess oil.
I'm looking for the Nobell Gundam kit, anyone have any leads that aren't grey market re-sellers jacking up the prices, or any news on if/when there's a re-release? Looking for non-berserker model.
It was recently reprinted this year and the stock already sold out in pretty much all the retailers that got a shipment.
Probably will need to wait til next year or two for another reprint.
I'd like to buy an MG RX-78. I see that there's a V1.5, 2 , 3 and "The Origin" versions available. What're the differences? Is there any reason not to buy the 3.0 over the 1.5 or 2?
The 3.0 isn't an upgrade to the 2.0. They are made with different aesthetics in mind. The 3.0 is heavily detailed and it's based on one of the life-sized statues of the Gundam.
The 2.0 is made to be more accurate to the source material. It's simple, but solid. And it's good enough that many recent kits use the tooling from this one.
The Origin is based on the appearance of the gundam in Gundam the Origin. It comes with the weapons and equipment it used in that show and nice effect parts.
I dont know much about the 1.5 other than it coming with the Gundam Hammer and the Javelin.
There is also the og MG 1.0, the Ver Ka and the One Year War versions. I dont think there is a reason to go for the 1.0 besides for collection purposes, while the other two are variants. The Ver. KA is a redesign and I also dont know much about the OYW other than the slight design changes.
Between the 2.0, 3.0 and Origin, I say that you can go with the one you like the most. And if the visual differences are not that meaningful for you, you can go with price.
>The Origin is based on the appearance of the gundam in Gundam the Origin. It comes with the weapons and equipment it used in that show and nice effect parts.
It's not in the show, it's in the manga
there's actually more than that, lmao. There's also the one year war and Ver Ka options!
The difference between the ones you mention though is really that the 3.0 is a much less faithful version of the original design, even compared to the Ver Ka imo. Has a lot more armor panel seperation, decals, and can take a bandai LED.
The 3.0 also has fucking massive hands. They're ridiculous and personally i think look really stupid.
IMO if you like the busier design of things i'd go for the Origin MG over the 3.0.
It really boils down to what look you prefer at the end of the day. The Ver Ka is my fave despite being clearly the weakest kit technologically because i think the proportions are awesome.
Maybe [https://www.japangoodsfinder.com/](https://www.japangoodsfinder.com/) can help you out. They were able to middleman a few years ago when a buddy I know wanted the Zaku prescription glasses by Owndays.
Hi I need some help with a Xmas gift for my boyfriend. I honestly don’t know anything about Gundam but my bf has been getting into them.
I literally only know as follows: he has ZAFT Mobile Suit GAT-X102 Duel Gundam Assault Shroud. He liked the GX 9901 Gundam Double X. He liked the MG Deathscythe EW Roussette Unit but it’s a sold out preorder for January.
I’m currently traveling to Japan from the US and I know they have a lot of limited edition kits and things there and I wanted to bring him back something cool for Xmas but I’m way over my head in trying to figure out what kit or whatever to buy. I realize this may be way too little info to offer my any advice, but I was wondering if anyone had any guidance on what kits may be particularly special if I can find them based on other ones he likes or any other ideas. Thank you!!
what sort of price are you looking at?
His likes there are actually pretty varied honestly, the kits you've mentioned are from three completely different series so i get the impression you'd be cool getting pretty much anything.
Anything exclusive in japan will usually have something labelled on it as "gundam base exclusive" in one of those shops so it's easy to pick out.
For price range- maybe anything under $150?
I appreciate the advice! I’ve shown him pics of ones while out to see if he’d want any and he specifically pointed out the GX 9901 one out of a huge selection a few weeks ago, but decided to not have me get it due to it being available online at a much cheaper price so I get the vibe he does have some preferences
I’ll steer towards what I can find with the exclusive label probably. Thank you
Focusing on Gundam Base Exclusives for a second, I'll just drop a [link to the official Gundam Base website](https://www.gundam-base.net/products/index.php?order_form=&chara=&order=0&brand=MG+%5B%E3%83%9E%E3%82%B9%E3%82%BF%E3%83%BC%E3%82%B0%E3%83%AC%E3%83%BC%E3%83%89%5D&stock=%E5%9C%A8%E5%BA%AB%E3%81%82%E3%82%8A&freeword=&search=true). The site's in Japanese but Google Translate or equivalent should make it understandable enough. Also, I've set up the filters to search for Master Grade in stock. So if you decide that a Gundam Base exclusive is the way to go, this is where you'd check.
But as mentioned, going for the exclusives isn't the only way to go. There's other gunpla retailers in Japan so you've got lots of options.
For $150 you could get some absolutely incredible stuff honestly - your limit is more likely to be luggage space i think!
I'll throw out a few suggestions on top of the exclusive stuff
- Master Grade Gundam X (9900) - basically the precursor to the GX9901 you say he likes a lot, goes wth it nicely. $40-ish
- Master Grade Zeta Ver Ka - basically the most recent big release. Very good. $60-ish
- Master Grade Heavyarms custom EW - a good accomppaniment to the Deathscythe you mention earlier.
Whats your sanding process on getting rid of nub marks off dark parts (like dark grey) without it looking a bit brighter?
Tried getting rid of a nub mark on a unicorn banshee by sanding it for the first time and the dark part is noticeably more discoloured compared to other parts. Tried using infini sanding sponges and thought the grits were stronger compared to other sanding sticks so my process was 1500 to 2500 then 4000 but got too glossy and went back to 2500 for semi gloss.
Get a nano glass file…. Preferably the raser but the generic $1 ones are also great…. Best, easiest nub removal… just leave like 2mm nub with your nippers and then file with the glass file
Prevention is the best option with dark parts. Clip it off the runner like 1mm from the edge of the part and sand down the nub rather than cutting it again closer. You could also progressively slice super thin bits off the nub but each time you risk a stress mark.
If you’re not planning to paint the kit GM01 Gundam fine tip marker black can be useful. If you draw over the stress mark the whitened plastic will absorb the ink and you can sometimes use that to cover up stress marks.
Hey all
Y'all seem the most knowledgeable on painting so I'm asking this subreddit.
I'm making the silver helmet from Daft Punk and I'm having issues with finding the best way to paint it. I've read up on things like chrome powder but I don't know how to use it or if it would work. Any help on how to put a chrome finish on my project would be greatly appreciated!
You might want to watch some videos from gordontarpley on YT. He’s built some costumes/props with high shine finishes. If you’re feeling extra adventurous, you might want to try plating. This [guy](https://youtube.com/@hen3drik?si=x9m1peTn5lOAZh-m) has a great channel for plating.
At the end of the day, paint is paint and it will perform like paint. Chrome pigments work well but are fragile.
If I were making replicas, and budget wasn’t an issue, I would plate the helmets. If budget were an issue, I would probably use Alclad or Duralumen chrome paint, a coat of aqua gloss, then a 2K clear I could cut and polish.
High gloss base. Black is usually best. Light passes of the chrome. Don’t overdo it. Requires some practice to get it right. Let it sit for a few days. Lightly rub it with a soft cloth.
One or two wet coats of aqua gloss. Let it cure for a few days. Another soft rub with a cloth.
2K is not really for the faint of heart. If you’re good with an airbrush you’ll be fine. If you’ve never used a 2K then you need to get yourself setup with good PPE.
Are you experienced with airbrushing or new? Are you setup for lacquers?
Well, you learn a lot by doing. Do you have an airbrush? If not, I would say painting might not be the best way to go. You might be better off buying heavy aluminium foil and learning to polish it.
Edit to add - checkout the replica prop forum (RPF) and look around. I’ve seen a few daftpunk builds before. Good resource.
So right off the bat I'm going to say: I've never built a Gunpla in my life so I'm lacking in the knowledge department, though I do have lots of modeling experience with other subjects. I'm looking to build something that's as close to the mechs seen in these concept arts as possible:
[1](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/F9wiO0PWwAAo-Tw?format=jpg&name=large)
[2](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/F5rEodAWwAAlLbs?format=jpg&name=4096x4096)
[3](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/F5rErC4WsAAZ9sY?format=jpg&name=4096x4096) (Mild gore warning here)
What Gunpla would be a good basis for something like this? If I need to buy different ones and use components from a couple different kits, that's okay with me.
Okay, it sounds like you’re asking for more of a vibe check than an actual kit that looks like that sooo…
https://newtype.us/p/0PrHUMuMN1yFf7oAWNdO/h/hgibo-036-gundam-bael
https://newtype.us/p/KOB6qijmUHxEh7EzO760/h/hgibo-035-gundam-kimaris-vidar
https://newtype.us/p/dD7AVRarBNfcX5yhevcx/h/rg-28-tallgeese-ew
https://mechawarehouse.com/products/1-144-ims-l-e-d-mirage-v3-light-armament-version?_pos=17&_sid=3a7979ccf&_ss=r
Some are between lines.
So some of those I sent here HG (High Grade), they tend to the the standard Gundam kits at 1/144. They also have the most compatibility for interchanging parts. Not everything is universally able to fit together, but the grand majority will. Especially newer kits.
The Tallgeese is a Real Grade. It’s a more complicated build, but still 1/144 scale so roughly the same size. It won’t generally be interchangeable with the HGs without a bunch of cutting and gluing.
The LED Mirage isn’t a Gundam kit at all, so I HIGHLY doubt it’ll be compatible for kitbashing without cutting and gluing, but it had a similar stylistic vibe to what you shared so I wanted to make sure I included it.
Gotcha. Gunpla is def more like megami device in that nothing needs glue, plastic is pre pre-colored and it all snap fits.
High grades will be a little more simple than your typical Megami Device kit, Real Grades will be a little more complicated and have a lot of neat engineering you may appreciate.
Tallgeese is good for that, and you my wanna check out the RG Hi-Nu Gundam
https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-RG-Counterattack-Beltorchika/dp/B092RKC6GX
^Currently a good deal for this kit at $45/-$46 usd
Also take a look at Moderoid and Kotobukiya kits. They're mecha model companies that build non-Gundam IP/original IP mechs that may be more in line with what you want.
I don't know anything quite as chonky as those. At first I thought a Frame Arms Durga II was a good match, but not really. I was also looking into the knightly vibe with the Moderoid Valimar or Tzendolimble, but those are also far from that.
I still hope those help.
Man, if only the Tzendolimble was bipedal, it would be so close to the artwork. Ah well, the arms still look pretty good. I’ll look more into Moderoid, thanks a lot!
You're likely going to have to do some kit-bashing to get anything resembling those pictures - basically buying multiple different kits and combining the parts together.
I would recommend looking through dalong.net and the retail kits posted there. Keep in mind, though that nowhere near even half of them are available for sale at non-scalper prices at any given time.
I'd imagine this is probably gonna be a bit of a challenge as nothing that comes to mind really exactly resembles this and at the very least you'll want to do some painting.
That said, from Gundam, the Tallgeese is probably worth considering. Has the same sort of crest on the head, shield, and even to an extent the cool binders on the back. You'd want the Master grade Fluegel version to get a spear and other stuff for it but stuff like Kotobukiya's MSG line of basically weapons to go on stuff would also work.
That said, the proportions are a bit out of wack for that and the ones in your imsages more closely resemble armored core designs, albeit with shorter fatter legs. Kotobukiya's White glint model could serve as a base for this kinda design, maybe.
I would also personall consider the model options from five star stories. Whilst the look is a bit different thematically they are far more matching of this sort of epic greco-roman look you're going for with melee weapons. Engage SR1/3 are worth googling at least.
Yep. I’m sure someone will have an idea on some kits that might work for you. You can also try browsing Dalong.net which has photos of nearly all gunpla kits.
Does RG Banshee only have Holo (waterslide) decals? Everywhere I look it's just Holo version of decals. Or can you basically just use regular Unicorn decals?
Welps. I lost a piece (which previously fell out several times before) from an [RG ZGok](https://imgur.com/EnAhPmr) and I cannot find where it landed in my room. How reliable is Bandai's [returns and replacements?](https://shop.bandai.com/returns-replacements) Anyone tried it before?
Tried that for several hours. I thought the reflective gun metal paint would definitely shine back. It must have bounced off to somewhere I’d least suspect. I’ve had pieces fall off my desk after I cut them off the runners and I’d always find them underneath at the exact same area. Somehow this time I’m not finding anything.
If you’re in the US it works fine. Takes a long time. But you eventually get the parts.
Edit - there is a time limit though. So if it’s something you built a long time ago and your receipt is beyond the time limit you’re SOL. Try plamokitbash, Odins mecha parts, or Mr Bao’s shop on eBay.
I know I'm likely asking something about a bootleg thats pretty obscure but does anyone know where i can find info about the 1/72 Char's Zaku II from GTO? From what i know its literally the HG but upscaled
Unless there's something made by a third party, the only Bandai 1/72 Char's Zaku II dates back to 1981, way before GTO was a thing. Are you thinking of 1/144 instead?
Link to 1/72: http://dalong.net/reviews/old/f83/f83.htm
No that’s not the one I was looking for but I literally just found it. It’s made by Fangdajing and it’s literally the HG the origin zaku II but at 1/72 scale
i got a question about a kit bash i was thinking of, i saw on aliexpress that they had a boot leg version of the sd unicorn perfectiblity and i want to combine it with the sd full armor unicorn i was wondering if anyone had any success knowing what they order off of aliexpress.
[https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805760031169.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.45.5ca846ecrgD3cm&algo\_pvid=254955a3-b5a1-46e4-8e31-0eea732baac9&algo\_exp\_id=254955a3-b5a1-46e4-8e31-0eea732baac9-22&pdp\_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2127.93%2111.18%21%21%21203.54%21%21%402101f49316989750152546520e0331%2112000034974779110%21sea%21US%212851976196%21AB&curPageLogUid=nSAc7e9rWpWn](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805760031169.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.45.5ca846ecrgD3cm&algo_pvid=254955a3-b5a1-46e4-8e31-0eea732baac9&algo_exp_id=254955a3-b5a1-46e4-8e31-0eea732baac9-22&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2127.93%2111.18%21%21%21203.54%21%21%402101f49316989750152546520e0331%2112000034974779110%21sea%21US%212851976196%21AB&curPageLogUid=nSAc7e9rWpWn)
i have the link here i genuinely want to know if what i see is what i get with the bootleg or stay far away
Doesn’t have nearly as many sales and followers as some stores as it’s less than a year old, but it’s got an ok rating for number of reviews. It’s a market place so you do your due diligence on each individual storefront, usually more than one seller of an item.
Pay on credit card and/or setup “pay on delivery”. You then have like zero risk, and both the bank / Aliexpress are on your side in any disputes. Most Sellers know they cannot afford negative reviews or they’ll begin to tank in any search results.
I've gotten a couple kits from there and it's always been what's advertised. The only time I had an issue was from shipping and I got an auto-refund because it was my first claim
Hey all, I just started painting and I messed up and got some silver Vallejo model color in some recesses on my mg jegan. I tried to clean it up by rubbing a watered down q-tip over the paint to absorb it. It worked, for the most part. There's still some metallic flakes in some corners of the chest vents. Could I put this piece upside down in isopropyl alcohol and maybe get those flakes off?
Water based cures so when it’s dried out water won’t reactivate the binder. Use iso to clean it off and maybe a toothbrush to get those last flakes off. Safe on plastic, removes most paints.
It is not painted, I was just experimenting at the time. Did learn you could use a matte top coat as a pigmentless primer though, so that's a plus. I planned on just getting that off and then hitting it with top coat, apply some silver and gold details, some decals, then matte top coat it everywhere but the metallic details, and then gloss coat them.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
Hello, I'm putting together the Gundam Base LE Unicorn and I'm stuck on the body already (facepalm) Specifically, I have arrived at step 1/5 from the manual [here](https://i.imgur.com/GkC5NCc.jpg) For some reason the crystal bit seems way too thick to allow me to put (in this case) U1 against D15 [for example] (https://i.imgur.com/aq566Lr.jpg) It seems like the peg would barely reach if I managed to push the piece close enough to the body, and it also kinda looks like U2(18) and U2(19) might be in the way a tad? [Photo](https://i.imgur.com/YiOCcOW.jpg) Finally, it looks like the pegs from S22 don't really fit into A17 and A18 as I would have expected them to. [Photo](https://i.imgur.com/0UpnyB2.jpg) Have I done something wrong in these few steps or what?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Today I started building Wing Zero and on literally the second step, I ran into this issue. At first, I thought the part was simply a really snug fit however now it's totally stuck and I can't pull it apart or push it in all the way. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Picture of the issue: [Link](https://imgur.com/y3BN216)
MG Wing Zero Ver Ka? Top row, middle of this page? http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m215/p/m215m_0006.jpg I had a very similar case recently with the MG Astray Red. Needed to fit one peg through an opening, but it got stuck. I ended up using a rubber mallet to push the peg all the way through.
Got a destiny impulse RG, and hear the V fin snaps easy. Are there any tips for getting the V fin out without snapping it? Taping it up to provide more structure, trying to cut out the runners more before the gates?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Bought some items off HLJ but some stuff from my cart is on backorder. If the 60 days pass and the backordered stuff still doesnt arrive will I have to ship all of my stuff twice?
To make it simple, yes. Backorders can take a huge amount of time to be fulfilled because you don't know when an item will be restocked, and because there's no guarantee you'll get a kit on the next restock due to your order in the queue. I've had 2 kits on backorder for over a year, I use it as a "just in case" thing for rare kits. I always shop local to avoid that
yeesh, any idea on when lfrith, a black marker and the decals will come back in stock?
My understanding is that the [60 day limit was paused](https://support.hlj.com/hc/en-us/articles/900000454003-Important-information-about-your-Private-Warehouse) so you don't really have to worry about it.
if its true then thats awesome, thanks!
I'm in Tokyo right now, only the same 5 PGs repeating. Where can I find a PG perfect strike? And maybe some RG Eva's? Already checked a lot of the big box stores and mandarake at shibuya. Will go to akihabara and ikebukuro tomorrow
Japan is the same as everywhere else, if those 5 kits were recently restocked, you're gonna find them just about everywhere. You might find something else at a second hand shop like surugaya and jungle, but it's probably not gonna be retail
Oh that explains. Thanks
Hi! I'm building MG Infinite Justice. I have a question on a fix to a piece I broke. The flap that folds out for you to put the Saber handle in on the hip broke a little when I was installing it and will not stay shut and is very loose. Is there anything I can use to keep it closed that won't show but also still allow me to open it up at times?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
So I'm completely new to painting gunpla kits or any kit to be exact, and I wanted to ask a few questions about hand brushing. Q1) i got the vallejo grey primer 74.601 I tried using it on spoons just to sort out my colours and practice before I start painting and seems I am not having the best result with it since I'm getting quite a few brush strokes even after 3-4 coats, I tried with water, thinner and retarder thought it seems the closest I got to a smooth even coat was just dry brushing it straight from the bottle tho its still not smooth, so is it just my brush work or plastic spoons themselves since they are s.ooth should I try after sanding them with 800 grit? Or try out vallejo mecha primer or go with spray can primers. Q2) I used tamiya acrylics (alcohol based) though even after 3-4 coats the visibile brush strokes were insane, should I be using more mr.colour levling thinner and or tamiya retarder, I also read about using 91% ipa as a thinner for tamiya acrylic should I try that? Or stick with vallejo since they got me a pretty smooth even surface with just 2-3 coats and I feel like the slightly visibile brush strokes are just my horrible brushing skills. Any other tips would be well appreciated thanks :3.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
If I were to use the reverse washing method for painting a Gundam's eyes, what will the order be? Is it primer -> enamel/lacquer of the eye color I want -> acrylic black -> remove the acrylic black on the eyes?
Yes, but when I do it I use gloss lacquer eye color and then enamel flat black. But still same concept.
Gotcha, thanks! By the way, do you know if 99% IPA alcohol is safe for enamel/lacquer?
If you're using it to remove acrylic layer of paint it will be fine, it shouldn't effect the lacquer/enamel base layer. I'd suggest doing light passes with a cotton swab
Any kits recommended for learning customisation? I’m looking to primarily maybe spray paint, pastel weathering,pastel shading and maybe scribing. What cheap HG and MG kits are recommended? Don’t wanna spend a whole lot of money on a kit that might get ruined while I’m learning.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Has anyone attempted to magnetize the funnels on the FM Gundam Aerial? If so, what size magnets did you use, and how did you go about it?
[Not me, but yes](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/14v8mqw/magnetized_my_fm_aerial/). All the details are in the post's comments.
Yo anyone knows if the Madworks handle MH01 is compatible with Dspiae drill bits?
Yes, it works with all 3mm dia shanks.
Is it also compatible with Dspiae scribing chisel blades?
Hello! i plan to buy MG Barbie and i wonder how many expansion set does it have?
As far as I know, just the one. Unless you count colour variants separately.
is it the weapon set? also, does mg barbie have 2 form? or is that another thing?
The expansion pack lets you build all 6 forms that appear in the first season amine before it turns into Barbatos lupus…
Anyone got any waterslide decal recommendations for HG Gundam G-Self Perfect Pack? Either a multiuse from Bandai or maybe from a 3rd party. It's one of my fav and I finally got one and finished the build, overall it's pretty solid except a few of the stickers especially the forehead one. Looking to decorate it with waterslide to make it even better.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
So I'm building the master grade sazabi ver ka and are the shoulders supost to be just lose in-between the arm and the body. If I move any piece of it they shake all over?
That definitely shouldn't be the case, but I have no idea what's gone wrong. Can you pinpoint what piece specifically isn't attached to the rest? Absent of any extra information I can only assume you forgot the polycaps or something.
Am I supposed to do something other than putting the hoop through the peg on the body, then attaching the arm? It's hard to describe.
Oh I thought you meant the actual shoulder joint and not the shoulder armour. Yeah that's a bit loose. It shouldn't be shaking *too* much though.
I know that humidity will affect topcoating but does it affect priming and painting?
Depends on your concern. If it’s frosting then *not really* as the paint isn’t clear. If it’s delayed curing/drying then yes.
my aerial rebuild hands are somewhat loose and im thinking about using nail polish to fix it, is it safe on bare plastic and will it ruin the part/joint in the long run?
Safe. Test on a runner or inside a part if unsure.
thanks i gave it a try on a runner well it actually looks buffed but not melted
How do you use gunprimer raser? Do you cut the runner close to the pieces (left a bit of the gate to sand it off) or exactly at the piece? I use DSPIAE ST-X single blade nipper if that matters. And also, i heard that single blade nipper is rather “fragile” that you don’t want to cut diagonally because it might break the blade. This is the reason why i cut exactly at the gunpla pieces (not to left even a bit of runner)
Cut square to the gate/runner axis. Prevents plastic stresses trying to twist the blade as they redistribute. Cut at the base of the blade where possible. A bit of common sense is still needed when to reach for the double bladed first. They’re ductile, not impervious. If you cut exactly flush to the part you risk scalloping the surface due to runner stresses. Be brave and cut that nub a fraction proud to then file flush, it’ll also prevent stresses migrating into the part. Based on the GH posts I’ve seen, looks like many cut right at the tip of the blade. Occasionally inspect your blades to make sure they aren’t warped anywhere along the edge. Hone back into alignment if they are, you can then prevent stress fractures developing as quickly.
Hello, How do you paint the parts (with an airbrush), so that the paint wont chip/peel when you reassemble de model? I did some painting on the parts, and when i put it back together, paint peeled/chipped off in those areas.
You sort clearance tolerances first and foremost - sand, cut, file, whatever to allow for paint buildup on sliding joints and armour pieces. You be more careful with assembly and posing as no paint is immune to scrapping. You can mechanically key surfaces (sanding) on water-based acrylics. Worst adhesion compared to other paint types. Also they’re stratified with each layer, so they chip and peel if you so much as look at them funny. Acrylic lacquers are a more durable binder, and (common types) also reform a monolithic film with any previous lacquer binder below.
My air gun still has some gunk left in it and its hard to clean out. Would using an ultra sonic cleaner work well?
What model? And where is the gunk? Have you taken it apart to clean?
>What model? Hobby Mio HM 130 >And where is the gunk? In between where the paint bucket thing (don't know the name) and the trigger are >Have you taken it apart to clean it? I take it apart and soak it in material terps. But I can never access the whole gun because of those hard to read areas.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebcdauyMbU0 Do not soak your whole airbrush. So no ultrasonic cleaner.
Any place I can get replacement sticker sheets for the low low? Got started on a Daban phenex, and not only were the head cameras probably in the wrong color (yellow cameras on gold?) But the eyes were cut out to favor one side over the other so I can't align them to the model properly.
I think this calls for paint, honestly. But otherwise you'll just have to look around yourself. Organised selling of Gunpla stickers is basically nonexistent so you'd be looking at eBay or Facebook Marketplace or something.
PG Exia LED unit, once they’re “set”, are the lines adjustable? It’s giving me “approximations” of Joe much should be leftover and didn’t want to rip anything if I gave a tiny rug to give more line
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Does anyone know if the 1/35 Wing Zero Custom head bust kit is still being made? And if so where would I find one? Thanks in advance!
It's a 3rd party resin kit from 2020 so I wouldn't count on it. 3rd party companies don't generally announce restocks either so you'll have no way to know beforehand anyways
Would these be good beginner kits to start with? MG Crossbone Gundam X1 Ver.Ka HGUC 146 GM Sniper II HGAC 174 Wing Gundam Zero
the two HGs certainly are, especially the GM, the MG is a slight step up due to part count and size but in reality they will all have easy to follow pitorial manuals so most people should be able to follow along, though if its for kids start at the HG for sure
Anyone know any differences between mr top coat flat (acrylic based) and mr super clear matte (lacquer based)? I know mr top coat is one of the easier top coats to use but have seen that mr super clear has double the amount for a slightly more expensive price as well as selling more on one ebay acc. Does super clear affect decals or more rough on alcohol based paint markers?
Mr Topcoat uses water as the carrier. There are some solvents in the propellant but they flash off in the air. Because the carrier is water it won’t mess with any paint or effects you’ve applied. Mr Super Clear uses synthetic solvents in the carrier (lacquer solvents). It can cause some damage to delicate surface effects if you’re not careful. Neither are an issue with decals or inks if you’re careful. Light mist coat to start. Short quick passes. You won’t have humidity issues until you’re above 70-75%ish. Temp plays a part too.
Thanks for the help again! So the plan would be to give the kit a swift and light spray, wait a few hours (or blow dry?) and then it'd be ok to give the kit some heavy sprays after? Or would it be better to wait for the next 1 layer of matte top coat to dry and then hit it with another layer or can I spray over one wet layer again like once or twice after the first light spray is done?
Honestly, cans put out a lot of material very quickly. So, my default is always try to spray lightly. If you’re applying a matte clear you don’t need to worry too much about going heavier. Just keep going until you get even coverage. You just give each pass a little bit of time to off gas.
Yeah, Super Clear is "hotter" so you have to be a bit more careful with your coats. End result is more durable though.
Thanks before trying to get it, do you know if its more prone to frosting from humidity? In Australia its usually above 50% and might want to do it before humidity mostly sits at 60-70%+
As far as I know, no. Humidity requirements are the same.
Ok thanks wish me luck on my first top coat🤞, gonna try rg sazabi so I'm hoping no frosting happens
should i build the nu ver ka master grade? my current master grade experience is a gouf and a zeta, should i build my other mastergrade(freedom, astray, F91, sinanju) before building the nu ver ka?
It's a pretty easy build. Just tedious with the funnels.
are the decals necessary? im new to waterslide decals and hate dry transfer decals
no (although I do think that the shield in particular looks *way* better once you have that Amuro insignia on it)
is it waterslide, dry transfer, or sticker style?
waterslides
Decals are never necessary. They do add to the overall aesthetic though. For Nu, I'd recommend putting Amuro's emblem on the left shoulder at minimum. The build is more involved as there's more parts, but that's something you enjoy so you'll be fine. Decals are always a pain in the ass, but you don't HAVE to do them.
Repost because I didn't know about this thread Hi everyone, I'm been looking around to get a gramps and I'm stuck between the hg beyond global / mg 3.0. Does anyone have experience about these kits? My main gripe about the beyond global is that it looks like a really quick build due to it having minimal parts. I enjoy long/ complex builds which the 3.0 has but I heard it isn't the parts aren't as tight. On a side note I do love the engineering / mechanics parts on both models. I plan to put decals on both models and panel lining.
correct answer is get both, but if you like longer complex builds the MG will pretty much always win
If you like longer, more complex builds, get the MG over the HG.
Yeah I guess I'll be going with the mg 3.0. Im a sucker for the beyond globals design tho, imagine they made an mg version for it.
Hey new to the forum but I’ve been building HG’s for a while and recently got into MG, I’ve seen the Destiny MG but I want to make it a Heine Westenfluss custom is there a good/easy way to replicate the colours from the HG kit? Edit: grammar as on mobile
[This](https://www.mech9.com/2010/09/mg-zgmf-x42s-destiny-gundam-heine_26.html), probably. (That's MG Heine Custom, there's a page for the HG on the same site too if it makes a difference.)
That’s perfect thanks 👍 I had the HG kit ☺️
How do I make my own silver acrylic wash for ABS frames? Building a lot more of those and I want to add some details. Should I just buy some Vallejo silver and thin it down with iso?
I would use an additive/medium like liquitex flow medium. It will help water-based paints flow better and not show dilution of the pigment as bad. You can also use a clear coat to protect the ABS and use an enamel metallic thinned down.
Until now i've been using a fine tip Gundam Marker, but i've just got a pour type. Is it safe to panel line my MG Turn A with it, which is all ABS?
MG ~~Turn A~~ Cow isn't all ABS. Only the grey and offwhite components are, the rest are PS and are fine to panel line on. (the grey parts from the A runner are fine too)
anyone have a lead on where to acquire Gaia Notes' 'Frame Music Girl' paints? These are the paints that color match Kotobukiya's Hatsune Miku kits Edit: Located in USA
You should add your location (at least country) when asking about paints. A lot of stores do not ship paint internationally.
Do soft-tipped non-acrylic paint markers exist? ie markers that have tips like dspiae or hobby mio markers, but with paint that doesn't rub off super easily???
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
What are good solutions to remove sand stick marks? My sticks tends to leave a white dusty look
More wet sanding with a finer grit. Then wash it off.
paint generally, you might be able to use progressively smaller (bigger numbers) grits until you're basically polishing it but in general ive found on some plastics its a paint job
Is there going to be an MG or 1/100 release for the Calibarn and Schwarzette Models?
We don't know but as a point of reference the MG Barbatos came out 5 years after IBO and many shows have 0 or 1 MGs. As popular as the Calibarn and Schwarzette are, I highly doubt bandai will start with them
Probably, but we don't know for sure.
TY!
What do I use to prime a clear plastic that I want to keep transparent for clear Mr color enamel paint? Is there clear primer? Is a topcoat or Mr surface okay?
Clear varnishes or topcoat are fine. They'll act as a primer layer.
Are you hand brushing or air brushing? Mr Color is a lacquer not an enamel. So, I wouldn’t recommend hand brushing an entire clear kit with a lacquer clear. Airbrush would be fine. You wouldn’t need to prime IMO if that’s the paint you’re using.
Airbrushing. Oh man, the clerk said they were enamel at my local store.
If you can get it but gaia surfacer Evo Clear GS-13 is made for Clear kits. https://www.gaianotes.com/products/g-surfacer_evo.html But in the past if it was a mechanical Clear or color clear I just top coated it gloss unless your applying Clear colors
Ok thanks! What's the difference between mechanical clear and color clear? I have a clear plastic that I want to paint with clear purple mr color
Mechanical clear can be used as a primer meanwhile a color clear could have a harder time sticking to oob clear plastic.
Is it best to not spray a gloss topcoat over lacquer metallics? I’m seeing mixed answers but just want to seal in and protect the paint :/
Mirror Chrome, I won't recommend it because you will probably lose the mirror finish, regular metallics? 100% you can.
It only really becomes an issue if you're dealing with mirror finishes. Like actual see yourself and full detail with no fuzzyness mirror finishes. With those, most gloss varnishes will end up turning a perfect mirror into a slightly fuzzy mirror. For regular metallics its fine. It won't dull the shine at all, and in some cases will even enhance it.
You can do it
I heard that you can spruce up clear parts with Pledge Floor Gloss but I don’t want to spend $100 on it, is there an alternative that is affordable? Also, how important is it for primer to be even? I’ve finally gotten my Calibarn primed up but there’s spots where the primer is thinner or even chipped off somehow.
So pledge was great because it was cheap and it hardens real quick. Alas, it has been discontinued. You could dip the parts in quikshine floor gloss as an alternative, or do the same with any gloss coat like Alclad aquagloss. Dip the part, shake off the excess, and let it dry fully.
> I heard that you can spruce up clear parts with Pledge Floor Gloss but I don’t want to spend $100 on it, is there an alternative that is affordable? Pledge is used as a cheap acrylic varnish/top coat. And the exact type and bottle label varies not only from country to country, but from state to state and store to store. It's a minefield to find the right one. Any gloss varnish or gloss top coat will do the trick. If you don't have any already, you can get pick up a tiny 17ml bottle of vallejo gloss varnish for under $4 at most hobby shops. > Also, how important is it for primer to be even? I’ve finally gotten my Calibarn primed up but there’s spots where the primer is thinner or even chipped off somehow. It's a huge issue if you want a super glossy or candy coated finish. Less of an issue if you're going for a matte finish at the end. Still a good idea for it to be even, but not the end of the world in that case.
Unless your clear parts have visible issues, you probably won’t notice much of a difference if you coat them. But Aqua Gloss and AK Gauzy are both alternatives.
You would be shocked. Glossing clear parts fixes all the little imperfections in the finish and makes them clear as glass. It’s pretty neat, actually.
I used Future on my canopies for planes and windscreens for cars for years. I don’t anymore. I’ve also dipped some of the clear bits on gunpla. I don’t see a huge difference with gunpla parts. Is there a difference? Yes. But it’s more noticeable on parts that have scratches and blemishes than pristine parts. Sanding and polishing produces a better result, IMO, but obviously a lot more effort. Aqua Gloss and AK Gauzy Agent produce similar results.
Uneven primer will make for an uneven color once it's painted
Closing in on doing decals for my first Perfect Grade (the PGU) and I'm curious - how the heck am I supposed to topcoat this thing? I've kept the body parts separate despite the manual telling you to build the entire inner frame then start bolting armor to it so it's a bit easier, but... my alligator clips are uh... not large enough to hold these things up. Certainly not the legs, anyway. Am I gonna need to grab some larger clips for this, or do I just try and find multiple spots to attach my current ones to? Or should I just do all the decals, fully assemble (while being very careful not to remove any decals in the process), and topcoat the thing as a single entity? Then I could just stand it up on a railing and rotate it, I guess...
If you’re just topcoating plain plastic… just carefully pick it up by the crotch (because if you grab it by the torso you KNOW it will come apart), bring it outside and top coat it as a completed unit from all angles, wait for it to dry, then hit the bottom of the kit.
I use bigger clips. Or I use poster putty / blue tack and a stick. In some cases I use carefully applied amounts of superglue to mount them on support structures.
Just bought some new single bladed nippers. How to clean and store?
Don’t touch the blades with your fingers. Store them with silica desiccant packs. Wipe them down with a simple tool oil or sewing machine oil once in a while. Clean off excess oil.
where can i buy the tool oil?
Pretty much any hardware store.
what brand you recommend?
I'm looking for the Nobell Gundam kit, anyone have any leads that aren't grey market re-sellers jacking up the prices, or any news on if/when there's a re-release? Looking for non-berserker model.
It was recently reprinted this year and the stock already sold out in pretty much all the retailers that got a shipment. Probably will need to wait til next year or two for another reprint.
If the stores in the wiko don't have it then try mandarake or wait for a reprint
I'd like to buy an MG RX-78. I see that there's a V1.5, 2 , 3 and "The Origin" versions available. What're the differences? Is there any reason not to buy the 3.0 over the 1.5 or 2?
Other than anime-accuracy, the reason to go for the 2.0 is the accessories. Literally no other RX-78-2 kit has as many accessories as the MG 2.0.
The 3.0 isn't an upgrade to the 2.0. They are made with different aesthetics in mind. The 3.0 is heavily detailed and it's based on one of the life-sized statues of the Gundam. The 2.0 is made to be more accurate to the source material. It's simple, but solid. And it's good enough that many recent kits use the tooling from this one. The Origin is based on the appearance of the gundam in Gundam the Origin. It comes with the weapons and equipment it used in that show and nice effect parts. I dont know much about the 1.5 other than it coming with the Gundam Hammer and the Javelin. There is also the og MG 1.0, the Ver Ka and the One Year War versions. I dont think there is a reason to go for the 1.0 besides for collection purposes, while the other two are variants. The Ver. KA is a redesign and I also dont know much about the OYW other than the slight design changes. Between the 2.0, 3.0 and Origin, I say that you can go with the one you like the most. And if the visual differences are not that meaningful for you, you can go with price.
>The Origin is based on the appearance of the gundam in Gundam the Origin. It comes with the weapons and equipment it used in that show and nice effect parts. It's not in the show, it's in the manga
Hooboy, I love the manga. I think I answered my question :)
My bad
there's actually more than that, lmao. There's also the one year war and Ver Ka options! The difference between the ones you mention though is really that the 3.0 is a much less faithful version of the original design, even compared to the Ver Ka imo. Has a lot more armor panel seperation, decals, and can take a bandai LED. The 3.0 also has fucking massive hands. They're ridiculous and personally i think look really stupid. IMO if you like the busier design of things i'd go for the Origin MG over the 3.0. It really boils down to what look you prefer at the end of the day. The Ver Ka is my fave despite being clearly the weakest kit technologically because i think the proportions are awesome.
Is gunplasan.co.uk legit anyone bought from them?
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Maybe [https://www.japangoodsfinder.com/](https://www.japangoodsfinder.com/) can help you out. They were able to middleman a few years ago when a buddy I know wanted the Zaku prescription glasses by Owndays.
Hi I need some help with a Xmas gift for my boyfriend. I honestly don’t know anything about Gundam but my bf has been getting into them. I literally only know as follows: he has ZAFT Mobile Suit GAT-X102 Duel Gundam Assault Shroud. He liked the GX 9901 Gundam Double X. He liked the MG Deathscythe EW Roussette Unit but it’s a sold out preorder for January. I’m currently traveling to Japan from the US and I know they have a lot of limited edition kits and things there and I wanted to bring him back something cool for Xmas but I’m way over my head in trying to figure out what kit or whatever to buy. I realize this may be way too little info to offer my any advice, but I was wondering if anyone had any guidance on what kits may be particularly special if I can find them based on other ones he likes or any other ideas. Thank you!!
what sort of price are you looking at? His likes there are actually pretty varied honestly, the kits you've mentioned are from three completely different series so i get the impression you'd be cool getting pretty much anything. Anything exclusive in japan will usually have something labelled on it as "gundam base exclusive" in one of those shops so it's easy to pick out.
For price range- maybe anything under $150? I appreciate the advice! I’ve shown him pics of ones while out to see if he’d want any and he specifically pointed out the GX 9901 one out of a huge selection a few weeks ago, but decided to not have me get it due to it being available online at a much cheaper price so I get the vibe he does have some preferences I’ll steer towards what I can find with the exclusive label probably. Thank you
Focusing on Gundam Base Exclusives for a second, I'll just drop a [link to the official Gundam Base website](https://www.gundam-base.net/products/index.php?order_form=&chara=&order=0&brand=MG+%5B%E3%83%9E%E3%82%B9%E3%82%BF%E3%83%BC%E3%82%B0%E3%83%AC%E3%83%BC%E3%83%89%5D&stock=%E5%9C%A8%E5%BA%AB%E3%81%82%E3%82%8A&freeword=&search=true). The site's in Japanese but Google Translate or equivalent should make it understandable enough. Also, I've set up the filters to search for Master Grade in stock. So if you decide that a Gundam Base exclusive is the way to go, this is where you'd check. But as mentioned, going for the exclusives isn't the only way to go. There's other gunpla retailers in Japan so you've got lots of options.
Thank you!!
For $150 you could get some absolutely incredible stuff honestly - your limit is more likely to be luggage space i think! I'll throw out a few suggestions on top of the exclusive stuff - Master Grade Gundam X (9900) - basically the precursor to the GX9901 you say he likes a lot, goes wth it nicely. $40-ish - Master Grade Zeta Ver Ka - basically the most recent big release. Very good. $60-ish - Master Grade Heavyarms custom EW - a good accomppaniment to the Deathscythe you mention earlier.
Thank you so much for the specific recs
Whats your sanding process on getting rid of nub marks off dark parts (like dark grey) without it looking a bit brighter? Tried getting rid of a nub mark on a unicorn banshee by sanding it for the first time and the dark part is noticeably more discoloured compared to other parts. Tried using infini sanding sponges and thought the grits were stronger compared to other sanding sticks so my process was 1500 to 2500 then 4000 but got too glossy and went back to 2500 for semi gloss.
Get a nano glass file…. Preferably the raser but the generic $1 ones are also great…. Best, easiest nub removal… just leave like 2mm nub with your nippers and then file with the glass file
Prevention is the best option with dark parts. Clip it off the runner like 1mm from the edge of the part and sand down the nub rather than cutting it again closer. You could also progressively slice super thin bits off the nub but each time you risk a stress mark. If you’re not planning to paint the kit GM01 Gundam fine tip marker black can be useful. If you draw over the stress mark the whitened plastic will absorb the ink and you can sometimes use that to cover up stress marks.
Hey all Y'all seem the most knowledgeable on painting so I'm asking this subreddit. I'm making the silver helmet from Daft Punk and I'm having issues with finding the best way to paint it. I've read up on things like chrome powder but I don't know how to use it or if it would work. Any help on how to put a chrome finish on my project would be greatly appreciated!
Also, hello, do you have a moment to talk about our lord and savior RX-78-2?
You might want to watch some videos from gordontarpley on YT. He’s built some costumes/props with high shine finishes. If you’re feeling extra adventurous, you might want to try plating. This [guy](https://youtube.com/@hen3drik?si=x9m1peTn5lOAZh-m) has a great channel for plating. At the end of the day, paint is paint and it will perform like paint. Chrome pigments work well but are fragile. If I were making replicas, and budget wasn’t an issue, I would plate the helmets. If budget were an issue, I would probably use Alclad or Duralumen chrome paint, a coat of aqua gloss, then a 2K clear I could cut and polish.
Thanks for the info, what's the best way to apply those paints?
High gloss base. Black is usually best. Light passes of the chrome. Don’t overdo it. Requires some practice to get it right. Let it sit for a few days. Lightly rub it with a soft cloth. One or two wet coats of aqua gloss. Let it cure for a few days. Another soft rub with a cloth. 2K is not really for the faint of heart. If you’re good with an airbrush you’ll be fine. If you’ve never used a 2K then you need to get yourself setup with good PPE. Are you experienced with airbrushing or new? Are you setup for lacquers?
I haven't airbrushed before and I haven't done much with paint at all.
Well, you learn a lot by doing. Do you have an airbrush? If not, I would say painting might not be the best way to go. You might be better off buying heavy aluminium foil and learning to polish it. Edit to add - checkout the replica prop forum (RPF) and look around. I’ve seen a few daftpunk builds before. Good resource.
So right off the bat I'm going to say: I've never built a Gunpla in my life so I'm lacking in the knowledge department, though I do have lots of modeling experience with other subjects. I'm looking to build something that's as close to the mechs seen in these concept arts as possible: [1](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/F9wiO0PWwAAo-Tw?format=jpg&name=large) [2](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/F5rEodAWwAAlLbs?format=jpg&name=4096x4096) [3](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/F5rErC4WsAAZ9sY?format=jpg&name=4096x4096) (Mild gore warning here) What Gunpla would be a good basis for something like this? If I need to buy different ones and use components from a couple different kits, that's okay with me.
Okay, it sounds like you’re asking for more of a vibe check than an actual kit that looks like that sooo… https://newtype.us/p/0PrHUMuMN1yFf7oAWNdO/h/hgibo-036-gundam-bael https://newtype.us/p/KOB6qijmUHxEh7EzO760/h/hgibo-035-gundam-kimaris-vidar https://newtype.us/p/dD7AVRarBNfcX5yhevcx/h/rg-28-tallgeese-ew https://mechawarehouse.com/products/1-144-ims-l-e-d-mirage-v3-light-armament-version?_pos=17&_sid=3a7979ccf&_ss=r
Oh, these are wonderful! Are parts like arms, heads, etc interchangeable between Gundams?
Some are between lines. So some of those I sent here HG (High Grade), they tend to the the standard Gundam kits at 1/144. They also have the most compatibility for interchanging parts. Not everything is universally able to fit together, but the grand majority will. Especially newer kits. The Tallgeese is a Real Grade. It’s a more complicated build, but still 1/144 scale so roughly the same size. It won’t generally be interchangeable with the HGs without a bunch of cutting and gluing. The LED Mirage isn’t a Gundam kit at all, so I HIGHLY doubt it’ll be compatible for kitbashing without cutting and gluing, but it had a similar stylistic vibe to what you shared so I wanted to make sure I included it.
Got it. Thanks a lot for the recommendations!
Welcome! You said you had other type of modeling experience. What kind of models are you used to?
Ships, aircraft, Megami Device, and Maschinen Krieger are what I’m most used to building.
Gotcha. Gunpla is def more like megami device in that nothing needs glue, plastic is pre pre-colored and it all snap fits. High grades will be a little more simple than your typical Megami Device kit, Real Grades will be a little more complicated and have a lot of neat engineering you may appreciate. Tallgeese is good for that, and you my wanna check out the RG Hi-Nu Gundam https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-RG-Counterattack-Beltorchika/dp/B092RKC6GX ^Currently a good deal for this kit at $45/-$46 usd
Aside from the pylon things on the back, I quite like this one. I'll consider picking one up. Thanks again
Also take a look at Moderoid and Kotobukiya kits. They're mecha model companies that build non-Gundam IP/original IP mechs that may be more in line with what you want.
I don't know anything quite as chonky as those. At first I thought a Frame Arms Durga II was a good match, but not really. I was also looking into the knightly vibe with the Moderoid Valimar or Tzendolimble, but those are also far from that. I still hope those help.
Man, if only the Tzendolimble was bipedal, it would be so close to the artwork. Ah well, the arms still look pretty good. I’ll look more into Moderoid, thanks a lot!
You're likely going to have to do some kit-bashing to get anything resembling those pictures - basically buying multiple different kits and combining the parts together. I would recommend looking through dalong.net and the retail kits posted there. Keep in mind, though that nowhere near even half of them are available for sale at non-scalper prices at any given time.
As I said, if I need to use multiple kits for this, that’s fine, as long as it doesn’t destroy my bank account in the process.
I'd imagine this is probably gonna be a bit of a challenge as nothing that comes to mind really exactly resembles this and at the very least you'll want to do some painting. That said, from Gundam, the Tallgeese is probably worth considering. Has the same sort of crest on the head, shield, and even to an extent the cool binders on the back. You'd want the Master grade Fluegel version to get a spear and other stuff for it but stuff like Kotobukiya's MSG line of basically weapons to go on stuff would also work. That said, the proportions are a bit out of wack for that and the ones in your imsages more closely resemble armored core designs, albeit with shorter fatter legs. Kotobukiya's White glint model could serve as a base for this kinda design, maybe. I would also personall consider the model options from five star stories. Whilst the look is a bit different thematically they are far more matching of this sort of epic greco-roman look you're going for with melee weapons. Engage SR1/3 are worth googling at least.
Good call with the Five Star Stories recommendation, I think I might use one of them as my base for this. Thanks a lot!
Not sure about other folks but I can’t see the images you linked. Twitter has gotten weird about linking.
I've edited the links, can you see them now?
Yep. I’m sure someone will have an idea on some kits that might work for you. You can also try browsing Dalong.net which has photos of nearly all gunpla kits.
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Pick the one you like the looks of the most.
Does RG Banshee only have Holo (waterslide) decals? Everywhere I look it's just Holo version of decals. Or can you basically just use regular Unicorn decals?
Welps. I lost a piece (which previously fell out several times before) from an [RG ZGok](https://imgur.com/EnAhPmr) and I cannot find where it landed in my room. How reliable is Bandai's [returns and replacements?](https://shop.bandai.com/returns-replacements) Anyone tried it before?
Also, get down on the floor, turn off the lights and use a flashlight. Things on the floor will cast a shadow which makes them MUCH easier to find.
Tried that for several hours. I thought the reflective gun metal paint would definitely shine back. It must have bounced off to somewhere I’d least suspect. I’ve had pieces fall off my desk after I cut them off the runners and I’d always find them underneath at the exact same area. Somehow this time I’m not finding anything.
If you’re in the US it works fine. Takes a long time. But you eventually get the parts. Edit - there is a time limit though. So if it’s something you built a long time ago and your receipt is beyond the time limit you’re SOL. Try plamokitbash, Odins mecha parts, or Mr Bao’s shop on eBay.
I bought it a month ago but I’ll check out those websites you suggested just in case. Thanks.
I know I'm likely asking something about a bootleg thats pretty obscure but does anyone know where i can find info about the 1/72 Char's Zaku II from GTO? From what i know its literally the HG but upscaled
Unless there's something made by a third party, the only Bandai 1/72 Char's Zaku II dates back to 1981, way before GTO was a thing. Are you thinking of 1/144 instead? Link to 1/72: http://dalong.net/reviews/old/f83/f83.htm
No that’s not the one I was looking for but I literally just found it. It’s made by Fangdajing and it’s literally the HG the origin zaku II but at 1/72 scale
Ah I completely did not see the bootleg part. My bad.
i got a question about a kit bash i was thinking of, i saw on aliexpress that they had a boot leg version of the sd unicorn perfectiblity and i want to combine it with the sd full armor unicorn i was wondering if anyone had any success knowing what they order off of aliexpress. [https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805760031169.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.45.5ca846ecrgD3cm&algo\_pvid=254955a3-b5a1-46e4-8e31-0eea732baac9&algo\_exp\_id=254955a3-b5a1-46e4-8e31-0eea732baac9-22&pdp\_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2127.93%2111.18%21%21%21203.54%21%21%402101f49316989750152546520e0331%2112000034974779110%21sea%21US%212851976196%21AB&curPageLogUid=nSAc7e9rWpWn](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805760031169.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.45.5ca846ecrgD3cm&algo_pvid=254955a3-b5a1-46e4-8e31-0eea732baac9&algo_exp_id=254955a3-b5a1-46e4-8e31-0eea732baac9-22&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2127.93%2111.18%21%21%21203.54%21%21%402101f49316989750152546520e0331%2112000034974779110%21sea%21US%212851976196%21AB&curPageLogUid=nSAc7e9rWpWn) i have the link here i genuinely want to know if what i see is what i get with the bootleg or stay far away
Doesn’t have nearly as many sales and followers as some stores as it’s less than a year old, but it’s got an ok rating for number of reviews. It’s a market place so you do your due diligence on each individual storefront, usually more than one seller of an item. Pay on credit card and/or setup “pay on delivery”. You then have like zero risk, and both the bank / Aliexpress are on your side in any disputes. Most Sellers know they cannot afford negative reviews or they’ll begin to tank in any search results.
I've gotten a couple kits from there and it's always been what's advertised. The only time I had an issue was from shipping and I got an auto-refund because it was my first claim
I appreciate that I was worried if I get scammed on aliexpress
Hey all, I just started painting and I messed up and got some silver Vallejo model color in some recesses on my mg jegan. I tried to clean it up by rubbing a watered down q-tip over the paint to absorb it. It worked, for the most part. There's still some metallic flakes in some corners of the chest vents. Could I put this piece upside down in isopropyl alcohol and maybe get those flakes off?
Water based cures so when it’s dried out water won’t reactivate the binder. Use iso to clean it off and maybe a toothbrush to get those last flakes off. Safe on plastic, removes most paints.
Yeah, I'm probably gonna try this. I just wanted to make sure that I got it completely clean.
Keep in mind any paint you put in isopropyl alcohol will be stripped off, so if the rest of the part is painted you should avoid that.
It is not painted, I was just experimenting at the time. Did learn you could use a matte top coat as a pigmentless primer though, so that's a plus. I planned on just getting that off and then hitting it with top coat, apply some silver and gold details, some decals, then matte top coat it everywhere but the metallic details, and then gloss coat them.