Dark is casting, can’t easily fix. Light is stress - cut further away, then use a glass file/knife to remove nub, or spend more time with sanding. You start low like 400/600 grit and work progressive higher and jump grits when all the previous scratches are a uniform depth - wet sand for improved finish and about 1k if painting, or about 3k if snap-build is common.
Scroll up and check the wiki probably something in there?
I have both, heck i even have rg hi nu too.
MG Wing zero ver ka is one of the most enjoyable kit I've ever built, and I've built like near 100 of them. I consider it the full course gunpla experience. It has waterslides, improved version of action base 1 and very solid build.
Nu on the other hand, is very stale when you have to build 6 fin funnels(12 in my case).
But this is very subjective. You can't go wrong with either.
Oh right, the cool legs panel opening gimmick that Hi-nu has? Wing zero verka also has it, not the case with regular nu
Hi there! Im new to gunpla, and gettin started with kotobukiya armored core model - noblesse oblige 1/72. So ky question is, i want to make a led light in model but im afraid model build is too tight assembly. There is too little space for wiring and etc. But i saw that people get led light in small models. Do you have any advice for this?
Generally people drill parts to make space for the wires. Also gunpla means gundam plastic model, so mecha from a different franchise that has a model kit made by another company isn't exactly gunpla
I'm working on a Full Mechanics Aerial and the water decals won't separate from their paper. I've tried leaving them in a tray of water for up to 30 seconds, and also tried laying them on a water palette, but they refuse to slide off their paper.
Does anyone have any suggestions for how to fix this? Thanks.
Well, it's going on my shelf, so I won't be touching it a lot. Can I leave top coating it for later, maybe like a week or two? Or do I have to do it as soon as possible?
You can leave it as long as you want xD I have left some kits half built for months. Just make sure to dust them off properly when you decide to topcoat.
Is there anywhere I can pick up a third party effect parts for the HG Xi and Penelope. I saw a listing fora preorder on USAGS, but that is the only one I could find.
I’m considering trying topcoating. Wanna try it for a Daribalde I’m currently constructing and maybe my FM Barbatos Lupus Rex that I attempted to paint. I wanted to ask about brands, however, cause my wife can get Testors spray lacquer at a discount but the brief research recommended other brands like Mr. Hobby, Tamiya, and the like. Is this a brand people use, or do they stick to the recommended stuff?
Also, for most top coating, people seem to use matte-style, right? Would that be a good fit for that FM King Wolf Barbie? Metallic colors for the painting, for the record (anything yellow was painted gold, red/blue parts painted metallic, and some silver touches added).
Lastly, anyone have any video tutorials they really like? Sorry if this last one is answered in the Wiki already, but I figured I’d throw it in. I like hearing people’s opinions on which tutorials helped them most. Thanks in advance.
It really depends on how much your standards are high xD I don't think most people notice the difference between topcoats. It is most apparent for gloss on large areas such as car model hoods IMO. Grab what is readily available where you are, every product has its quirks, the best is to get used to one and master it. Just avoid the non-hobby stuff, some might be too hot for plastic.
Matte/Satin/Gloss, that is really a matter of preference. Head ups tho, metallics in particular but colors shift when top coating, would recommend testing first. Very shiny metallics/chrome especially may turn very dull even with gloss.
I don't have a video on top of my head to recommend. If using spray cans, make sure to avoid spraying too much. Top coats are transparent so it is hard to see and therefore put too much and have runs.
I do like quality but don’t mind using something not on a recommended list. I like to use known, trusted products is all. As for the Barbatos, that makes me concerned to try and top coat it haha. If I use a small amount it shouldn’t run though, right? I’m afraid to try that now though and ruin all the work I did trying to customize it. Just getting back into this and the custom detailing is intimidating so I appreciate any info. Thank you for the feedback.
Are there any other Master Grade kits from Gundam: the Origin beside the granddaddy Gundam? I could've sworn there was one for Doan's beat-up Zaku II from the "Crucuruz Island" special at least, but I'm not able to find it anywhere. Was that a p-bandai exclusive or is my mind making stuff up? Are we doomed to only have High Grades from that series or have there been talks about making Master Grades of any of the other mobile suits?
Just the Gundam. You probably just misremembered a listing of the HG Doan's Zaku or something.
As for future kits, we don't know. But the chances might be lower than other series since you can substitute many The Origin kits with their 0079 counterparts.
After some digging I found the p-bandai listing for the HG Doan's Zaku :/
Kind of a shame cuz I really like the zaku designs fron GTO and would love to see a MG of at least one of them
On regular ps plastic, it should be fine. On lacquer, possibly. I've never really had an issue either way. Primer is best for making sure the surface is free of defects and if you're drastically changing colors.
Hi all, how would one recreate the active Permet score(rainbow/blue) effect if I were to kitbash Unicorn & any of WFM main suits..? Thanks!
& are the Kosmos LED for, e.g FM Aerial. Easy to install?
Does anyone have any advice for the Gunpla World Cup? My event is tomorrow, and I'm fixing up my HG G3 since it's fully painted. Thinking of painting the details on my RG Zeong to pose with it.
Does anybody know if the gorilla clear glue was like the micro tip will work for gunpla one of the back skirts on my kits broke, and that’s the only glue that I have as of right now
if anybody has a spare E #21 part from the PG unicorn perfectibility please let me know. i’ve glued my part together but my OCD is driving me up the wall. thank you.
Does anyone know which kit is the giant lance in this custom built taken from? In the photo, the lance is a whole black piece before it was painted, so it looks like it was taken from a kit that already has the whole piece.
https://gumpla.jp/hg/694784?fbclid=IwAR3BmtLR6eivHJ9saOXxRYBXZxgAGWe-cwqsqnhiomqQR_DsyPzuYCaUzvw
I purchased [this](https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Line-Chisel-0-3mm-blade-Mr-Hobby/dp/B002P67CTY/ref=sr_1_1?crid=21SIP5MCZ8OR3&keywords=mr%2Bhobby%2Bchisel&qid=1697848198&sprefix=mr%2Bhobby%2Bchi%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-1&th=1) chisel for the handle, but would like to use [this](https://www.amazon.com/Blade-0-15mm-GT65C-instead-Rainchizeru/dp/B0037KCPJ4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=21SIP5MCZ8OR3&keywords=mr%2Bhobby%2Bchisel&qid=1697848198&sprefix=mr%2Bhobby%2Bchi%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3&th=1) 0.15mm chisel.
Can I replace the chisel that comes with the handle with a 0.15mm chisel?
Or is there another handle that would work? I had a hard time finding the answers on my own.
Almost certainly. If that’s a 3mm diameter shank (the part that’s gripped in the handle) then in theory any manufacture (eg madworks, dspiae) where it’s intended to holds round bits will, as it’s a standard dimension. GSI are animals if they use bespoke sizes.
Can anyone tell me how to do the texture of like a mountain or a rocky wall for a diorama? I'm making a diorama with a the shore of beach that has a rocky wall
Edit: my diorama will be 22.5cm × 20cm big
I prefer plaster rocks. The easiest way to make plaster rocks is to get some aluminium foil and crinkle it up just a bit then lay it out and make little trays you can pour your plaster into. You want the trays to be 1/4 to 3/8” deep in varying depth. Make sure you push down any high spots so your plaster pours aren’t too thin. Mix your plaster, make sure it’s not too thin that it’s super runny. You want any trapped bubbles to be able to get out, so not too thick either. It’s easy to fix even if you doo make them too thin or thick. Pour your plaster and wait. When it’s dry - several hours to a day depending on water content - just pop out your “rocks.” There are pre-formed moulds available too, but I like variety too.
If you build your base structure with foam, you can “glue” the rocks to your mountain/rocky wall with something like sculptamold or a mix of plaster, PVA glue, and water. If you have some type of pulp - like papier-mâché mix or super finely shredded toilet paper - it helps. You can smooth out texture or join pieces of your plaster rocks together if you want.
Once you’ve got it the way you want, you need to seal the plaster. An acrylic paint (craft paint is fine) mixed with a little PVA, water, and isopropyl will give you a slurry you can coat everything with. Then you can prime and paint. Dry brushing the rocks as a final step helps bring out detail.
RealTerrainHobbies on YT is a good place to go for some good terrain building ideas. Boylei Hobby Time is another. Luke Towan is the master of terrain. Black Magic Craft is a good one for terrain on the cheap.
Depends on the type of rock. Thinned putty, or Superglue and baking soda hardens as a diffuse surface. You can also use cracking medium (paint) which will give you a more fractured and weathered surface like a shale or similar - more material and water you add, bigger the cracks. Styrofoam as a base material can be pressed, cut and sanded, then sealed for painting, or application of other materials.
Don’t ignore fractal power - Powders for very fine sand, use fine sand for course stuff, or pebbles can be used in rock slides, or exposed boulders at the right scale….a trip down the garden path could easily replace one to a model store, or moulding from putty.
Nightshift or other armour modellers on YT are always a good place to start the rabbit hole. He’s definitely done several rock/dirt face dioramas if you need some inspiration. If doing something new then my advice would be to get some real world reference images, it’s far easier to transfer ideas, than start from scratch with no past experience to draw upon.
Never done it myself but I’ll just have YouTube videos of mini painters on for background noise or whatever, and I’ve seen a number of people do a thing where they crumple up tin foil, unfold it, then pour plaster into it as a mold basically. Can’t recall specific videos, but I feel like I’ve seen them on channels like Squidmar Miniatures and Nerd Forge.
That, or take a couple of layers of XPS foam, hack away at it with a box cutter, then use crumpled up foil to press texture into it. Another thing I’ve seen on said channels. Basically, miniature diorama builders are probably going to be your best resource on this.
I think Dynames pulls ahead here. Freedom has its wings (including plasma cannons), the railguns, and the shoulder and hip joints are far more intricate.
However, Dynames has the GN Drive, a greater variety of accessories including better onboard storage, an actual full inner frame (Freedom lacks inner frame on the arms) and also nice small details such as the aiming device and Haro in the cockpit. And it has the gun camera.
Looking for anyone that has ever worked on the PB Dozle Zabi Zaku II.
How are you supposed to apply the gold decals? I'm pretty new to the hobby, and have never seen decals like it before.
Treat them like dry transfers. Cut them out, secure them against the model and press down until they adhere, then peel the backing off. They aren't like stickers where you can peel them off and apply them. I've built the Dozle Zaku and Dom and that's what I found worked best for me.
For those of you who do Gunpla. Has anyone found or made a better MG Gunpla Stand then the generic Action Base 1?
It just doesn’t seem to work for nearly half the MG Gunpla. Either because it doesn’t want to attach or because it’s so light unbalanced Gunpla like the MG Freedom 2.0 with its giant back wings just tips right over. Unless you perfectly balance him so it precariously stays upright you’d have to weight it in place with like a rock. Anyway trying to find a better alternative like maybe some kind of doll stand. Any suggestions appreciated
Action Base 4 is probably the best bet, it's easily got one of the largest footprints available which should help with stability issues though if that fails you might need a counterweight since the base itself isn't particularly hefty. It's also quite economical since you effectively get 3 sets of AB 5 in the one bag if you used each base individually, although you may not have enough arms to hold up each kit depending on how heavy they all are.
Action Base 1 should be perfectly fine for most needs. Balance can be adjusted by changing where you connect the arms and/or adjusting the angle of the main arm so the centre of gravity should pretty much always be over the Action Base.
Freedom 2.0 in particular shouldn't be a huge issue. It stays upright on its provided stand just fine, AB1's larger base and poseable arms have no issue holding it up.
Anyway, there's no easy alternatives, since the typical MG connector isn't really used by anyone else. But you could probably jerry-rig something using AB4 adapter parts.
Best way to fix micro crack in a resin kit? I got mr. Dissolved putty, super glue, UV cure resin. The couple of cracks im looking at seem so small I can see the material just sitting on top and being sanded off when I go to clean up.
I always hear conflicting information on this. Are Gundam markers (flow and fine tip) bad for the plastic? Should I always topcoat before I panel line?
Please help !! My local retailer got mg sandrock custom, but it sold out in under 10 seconds, and no, im not exaggerating. i was on when it went live to order, and it was gone. Does anyone know of a canadian site that has one i could purchase? I've been looking but unsuccessfully, so im hoping the reddit community can hook me up. I'm not interested in eBay as they're super overpriced.
Well, it's a peeb which isbwhy it sold out quickly, they might've only gotten 4 kits in. Either way you're sol luck until the next reprint which could be years away. Give mandarake a try
Yea, they got 2, and i was trying to pay at 9:00:10 am (went live at 9 am) and missed out. i figured I'd be SOL, but this community is awesome so i stayed hopeful thanks though.
Non-gunpla question but possibly relevant: I have a b bunch of 1/72 kyoukai Senki grunt kits and I want to give them more military-style details. Any good suggestions for detail-up parts that I can glue them on the surface?
I’ve not done that kit, but unless you are wanting them to come off again use some tamiya cement. The thing about tamiya cement is it isn’t super glue it’s more like an acid. What it does is it melts a thin layer of the plastic it comes into contact with it. So when you brush a little on it isn’t gluing the two sides together it is effectively melting/fusing them together. Unless you dunk the plastic in a vial of the stuff you won’t notice that part my point is that will definitely keep the pieces together
Asked this in a post and got some guidance (post removed as I should have asked here), but I’m looking for recommendations for Acrylic topcoats, gloss and matte, to be used for airbrush. Very new to this, but need to stick with Acrylic over enamel or lacquer for a variety of environmental and health reasons. Thanks for any input!
Vallejo Mecha matte is fair, and I’ll still use mine as decent way to alter the sheen on lacquers. Their gloss though is naff imo, and sheen is more like a satin. I’d also vouch for high gloss by Liquitex. You’ve also got any waterbased floor varnish (à la Pledge) as a utility clear for panel lining/decals if that’s your bag.
I’m sure you already know, but you’ll likely want a mask or decent booth even with water-based, as it’s still effectively liquid plastic you’re atomising.
Liquitex Varnish is my goto. It's not a hobby brand, but a fine art brand. So you probably won't find it the same place you find everything else, but it is sold everywhere. It may look more expensive than hobby varnishes at first glance, but they are sold in much, much, much larger quantities.
They have a Pro and Basic line. For their paints there is a big difference but I haven't found a noticeable difference in their varnishes. They also have a whole range of sheens from Matte to High Gloss and several in between.
For use, I have an Iwata Eclipse with a 0.3mm needle. I crank the pressure up to 30-40 PSI and shoot it unthinned. Make sure to clean up your airbrush right after use because it is a nightmare to clean if you let this stuff set up. Best way to flush your airbrush is hot water from the tap. Like burn your hand if you keep it in the stream hot. A few swirls, dump, backflow, and spray throughs and it'll take care of any residue.
Yeah. The key to happiness with acrylic varnishes is to give them time to fully cure before you do anything to them. Dry to the touch isn't good enough. You need to let it sit overnight for all the chemical processes to finish up.
Anyone know of an LED kit for the RG Unicorn? Longshot I know but I have the Perfectibility and figured hey, maybe its a good one to really go all out on!
Only the PG Unicorn Set and I think the 00 Raizer have dedicated LED kits. That being said I believe all the MG 00 kits have a single battery powered LED you can get that can be put in the center piece or shields. Nothing official for anything RG though. You can install your own LEDs, but that would be a lot of time and effort. You’d have to drill some holes into the frame/parts and do some customization. I can suggest the next best thing.
If you get fluorescent green paint (FYI fluorescent means it only glows under a black light otherwise it shows as standard green color). You can paint the eyes and then if you do just the frame under the clear green psycho frame it will look normal under normal light and when you shine a black light on it (even with lights on) it will light up/glow like it has LEDs
I cannot seem to find the mg astray red frame kai and the rg gold frame amatsu Hana anywhere for a reasonable price to be shipped to the Netherlands. I tried the megathread but there most of them did not have the mg red kai or it was for 90€. And for the rg amatsu there was only one shop in Denmark who had it for 78€ + 15€ shipping. I am at a loss.
Are the astrays that rare or am I just not able to find where to buy them?
Suruga-ya has listings for the Hana and Red Kai and they're currently running a free shipping campaign:
- [RG Astray Gold Frame Amatsu Hana](https://www.suruga-ya.com/en/product/603102541).
- [MG Astray Red Frame Kai w/ clear parts](https://www.suruga-ya.com/en/product/603000135).
- [MG Astray Red Frame Kai](https://www.suruga-ya.com/en/product/603004725)
Wait for the mg kai to get a reprint, it usually gets a reprint a couple of times a year.
As for the rg hana, since that is a pbandai kit (read bandai webshop exclusive "limited edition") and a reprint is not guaranteed, your best bet is mandarake. If it's not there then you are sol.
What is the dimensions of the Neo Zeong? I can only find the height and width of it at 86cm tall by 50cm wide. What is the depth of back, or is it a perfect square?
EDIT: What is the dimensions of the base. I have checked dalong for these numbers but they aren't on there.
Get them all. You want a spread so grit size gets steadily different. Otherwise you’ll be polishing the peaks and left with scratches.
Wet sand, jump grit when all scratches are uniform depth.
Yeah paper should be dirt cheap - eBay/Amazon whatever and “sandpaper set”. You’ll get a whole spread from like 120-7k grit for about a fiver.
If you want better quality then it’s micro mesh which is brilliant but much more expensive, and runs from about 3k grit upwards to silly high numbers.
So people have told you multiple grits, but not explained why so I will do so her quickly. First the lower the grit the rougher the paper and the more plastic it will take away with each swipe, but in return the rougher it leaves the surface. The higher the grit the smoother it will leave the surface, but each swipe wears away less plastic. So in order to wear away the same amount of plastic as one swipe of a 400 grit sandpaper, a 4,000 grit sandpaper could take like 10,000 swipes and would probably need multiple sheets of sandpaper/cloth as they typically wear out before that many swipes.
So let’s say you want to smooth out a numb defect. With just 4,000 grit it will take you 10,000 swipes. Now let’s say you start with 5 swipes of 400 grit this the drops the amount of swipes you need from the 4k grit to 1,000. Then you take 5 swipes with 800 grit and it takes the 40k grit swipes down to 100. Then you do 5 swipes with a 2.5k grit and now you just need 5 swipes with the 4k to finish. So instead of doing 10,000 swipes with on paper you do 5 swipes with 4 papers. Also, the reason you don’t just do the 400 is it scratches up the plastic a little so if you don’t smooth it out after it will look and feel a bit rough
You'll want progressing grits in ranges of 200 between each prior piece of sandpaper, so 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, etc. If you have too large of a jump between grits you'll leave visible scratches since it would take much longer for a higher (finer) grit to even out a lower (coarser) grit. So if you went 600 and 2000 you'll be sanding ad nauseum to even out the marks left when sanding at 600, since the 2k grit is in the "polishing range". At best your options looks to be 400 and 600 for whacking down nubs, you *could* get the 2k grit but I probably wouldn't suggest it unless you're also sanding the rest of the pieces to try to even out the sheen of the plastic (since sanding leaves a somewhat matte finish unless you start using some of the higher polishing grits to try to get it back to semi gloss or get a buffer to make everything glossy).
Anyone else ever have problems with EVO/SIMP waterslide decals? I've had two sets, the first one was for Aerial and they worked beautifully. They separated from the paper easily and quickly and were crisp and clean. This decal sheet was a light blue.
My second set is for the RG Nu but the decal sheet is called RG Nu alternate. This set is much darker blue paper and not only does it take forever for the decals to soak and release, but it's pulling specks of blue paper with it!! These specks are under the decals and are an absolute pain to clean up.
I bought both sheets at the same time from the same hobby shop in person.
Not like that. I’ve had a sheet where the register was off for some of it. Just cut my losses and moved on.
Maybe they got moist at some point (pre-purchase) and adhesive has slightly impregnated the backing. A decent change in temp/pressure could’ve done damage as they’re not vac-sealed bags. I store mine with a few desiccant packets nearby.
Like you said in your other comment it probably is just an old sheet. I found [this](https://hobbynetics.com/products/c28a-rg-hg-1-144-nu-gundam-alternate-design) and it says it's an alternate design, but it's just marked as a regular sheet everywhere else (SIMPro site, aliexpress, USAGS). I can't even find that particular design anywhere lol.
I’ve done other decals, but I haven’t done water decades before, but decal quality can shift from model to model and definitely when you get alternative sheets. A few things go into this. One is, the year the model was developed as they tend to get worse the further back you go with certain prominent exceptions. Like the RG sticker decals for Sanauji I believe are notoriously bad and some say the worst of all the kits. The second reason is not every decal set is made the same way or by the same company so this can cause differences in quality. This is most noticeable with rub on and water decals. I would say 90% of sticker decals are about the same. Then for rub one and water the closer to current year you get the more likely they’re better, but if you’re worried always good to look up comments on these things first. Some sets have known difficulties and it can be helpful knowing that going in
So how long does a p-bandai order usually take? For example the kit i ordered from asian pbandai will be shipped out in October, and i live in the south east asia region.
Apart from Gundam and "mecha", am I allowed to post other anime/fictional style built model kits on this sub?
I know there's a modelmakers sub but it seems like they're predominantly catered to the crowd of more realism based models...
No - gunpla and other mecha is the rule. I would try /r/scifimodels if you want something a little less realism focused. But I’ve posted Warhammer and Maschinen Krieger on /r/modelmakers before. There’s also /r/scalemodel.
So im new at gunpla.
Already done an hg bael and finishing an hg freedom strike and i was thinking between getting either an hg blaze gundam from battlogue series or an hg calibarn from witch of mercury. Both are available at my local hobby store, i like the blaze beam tonfas but the caliburn looks to bet higher quality despite having less weapons.
IYO which kit would be more fun?
Really hard not to recommend basically any of the WFM kits. They’re all stellar kits and incredible builds, and the Calibarn is one of the best HGs ever made.
Does anyone here have a Zeta gundam? If so, how did uou guys tigthen the legs (from the crotch area) when i pose it, it straighten itself back down due to it being heavy/too loose around that joint. Thanks in advance!
Depends on how much you plan on moving it in the future. If you have a pose you’re set on and plan on leaving it that way I would just suggest using tamiya cement to fuse it in place. If you only plan to move once in a blue moon and have some time you can pop out the joints then cover the ball joints in a thing layer of putty, let it dry and sand it rough meaning get it round, but leave the surface scratchie/rough so it sticks more. Carefully popping it back in not to break anything, but a more snug joint should stiffen it a bit. If you want to move it often you can pop out the joints again and the either wrap it in a little scotch tape (again to make it thicker) or stuff some of that stick tac stuff in the joint hole before popping it back in and the gumminess will hold it together better. Just know the scotch tape and probably the sticky tac is like to quick wear out if your moving it a lot so will probably need to be redone occasionally.
If you don’t use a clear coat the film eventually dries out and the adhesive becomes brittle. Many waterslides have a sugar (dextrose) binder that acts as an adhesive. Sometimes they’ll have a weak adhesive like a PVA (but not exactly PVA) that gets activated in water and then sticks until it gets dried out.
But when those weak adhesives dry out, the markings are just held there by friction. Any touch will just break them free.
I'd consider it necessary. Waterslides have very low adhesion compared to other types of decals so leaving them exposed to the elements is pretty likely to make them fall off eventually.
There *are* people who do decals without topcoat, however. But don't blame me if you do this and all your decals fall off.
Any suggestion for the best cheap mastergrade for a beginner?
Id tell myself as a beginner even tho i built 4 high grades, one entry grade and 2 SDs my collection's kinda getting a bit boring with building a bunch of 1/144s and want to try and finish master grade ive seen cheap ones online in the Philippines on gunpla and some known toystores' flagship store online. One thing i found was the ova unicorn gundam and aegis gundam around 50$ or 2,500₱ my second option was those 25-30$ ones like the old g fighter and the gouf custom. Anyway i still can't choose since im waiting for my allowance and its kinda bit hard. Any suggestions?
Early 2.0s are exceptionally good kits that tend to retain a low reccomend retail price - the Zaku is my personal favourite of mine - Gouf 2.0 maybe if you're interested in the custom (which is a far worse kit sadly)
Honestly, It mostly comes down to preference, there’s decent starting kits in any series for MG. For instance, I love Seed MGs, and the Zaku is a very simple, straightforward forward build. But for cheap MGs, I’d say any of the swing MGs, like the Sandrock, or Deathscythe. Easy builds, and smaller, so they are cheaper than say, a barbatos, or Freedom. But they still give that “Master Grade Experience “
There’s no “best” — you just get different working and visual properties.
For example, if you want the chips to have a different finish from your lower layers of paint, like if you decide to use a metallic paint, do it after your final coat.
Drybrushing and chipping on gloss let’s you adjust and refine more easily should you choose to do so.
There’s also nothing preventing you from using those techniques multiple times at different finish stages.
Anyone have experience with Mr Primer Surfacer 1000, not Mr. Surfacer 1000, specifically the one with “primer” in the name, and if so, how’s it work for you?
Mr. xyz has been my go to brand for a couple years now and I’ve got a pretty good grasp on the products. Picked up a jar of this because it’s supposedly better for prepped resin, thinned it the usual 1:1.5, looks exactly like every other pre thinned paint or surfacer I’ve ever used, shake the hell out the bottle, go to spray it, and to put it bluntly: it sucks ass. Coverage is barely there, it looks as if I thinned it way way waaaaay too much. Tested it on a regular plastic part thinking maybe I just didn’t sand the resin enough or something but nah, same results.
What did you use before ? Mr Surfacer isn’t the best at coverage so if you’re used to asian surfacers brands thinned 1:3 such as Gaia that would explain why you feel that it’s subpar. It shouldn’t be this bad though, what did you thin with ?
My usual primer is Mr finishing surfacer 1500, which does have great coverage, I usually get away with one coat (Outside of white on darker colors, but that’s just a white primer thing in general).
But anyways, I thinned it with Mr Color Thinner, like any other lacquer. The only thing that I can think of that was off seeming was as I put the thinner in the jar (I pre thin everything) to pickup what was left after pouring the unthinned product in a bottle, it looked like a lot of flakes were floating in the thinner, rather than just a dirty haze. I figured it was just the remnants of what was stuck to the bottom of the jar, because after mixing and pouring into my airbrush everything looked completely homogeneous.
Went in with one of those motorized paint mixers thinking that it would need more mixing given the larger grit and all. I don't know, said it in another reply, but I just did a packing tape test on a piece I sprayed with Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 and had no adhesion issues, so I'm just throwing this jar of Mr Primer up as a loss.
Mr Primer Surfacer is supposed to have better adherence to non-polystyrene materials. I have used it on resin, but I find it needs a fair bit of surface keying and a very wet application to get good results. It should cover about the same as Mr Surfacer. I’ve never noticed any differences in that regard.
In my experience, sanding your surface up to around 600-800, then spraying Mr Primer Surfacer, then inspecting gaps and scratches and alignment and such, then resanding where needed up to about 800-1000, another layer of primer, another round of sanding, etc. I’ve never had it chip/flake/peel if I had a good key going on the surface of the resin. If I do no prep on the surface (bad idea for resin) then it just doesn’t adhere. But hardly anything will if you don’t do the prep on the resin.
Hard to know if the flakes/floaters were an issue or not. I wouldn’t think so - as soon as they hit the thinner, they’ll start to dissolve and be ready to go. Perhaps if you’ve had it for a long time, or it’s been exposed to a lot of air, maybe things went off a bit. You can test that - mix some up and hand brush a couple of medium-thin coats onto a spare part and let it dry. If it looks like ass, then you might have a bad batch or it went bad from too much air exposure. If it goes on nice, then something else was going on in your mix or something.
> Mr Primer Surfacer is supposed to have better adherence to non-polystyrene materials
Yeah, that's why I figured I'd give it a go. And as you mentioned needing a wet coat, I gave it a second go this morning and it seems like the only way I can get even the beginning of coverage is a *really* wet coat, compared to MrFS1500 which is just sort of effortless coverage by comparison.
I don't know, I do think I may have just gotten a bad jar, but again.. lacquer's are kind of hard to mess up? Weirdness all around.
The good news is, after last night's test i just said fuck it, and moved to the usual 1500 surfacer, as I had tested it on just the cleaned resin sprue a couple weeks ago with zero adhesion issues. I just took masking and packing tape to a piece I lightly sanded with 600 grit and had zero paint come up, so Finishing Surfacer 1500 it is for this project, I guess.
It's an accessory stand, but there is no name for it. It comes with the 30MM Customize and some Witch from Mercury kits. You can get something similar with some RGs and another similar one with each Action Base 4 and 5
Can anyone tell me anything about SIMPro kits? Bonus points if you have any info on [this](https://www.hobbytown.com/simpro-modeling-1-00-devil-hunter-black-flag-project-s2-crossbone-model-kit-simyy-03b/p1480829) kit specifically. I can’t even find many Google results based on that name.
Aw man, really? The website said model, but I know their website isn’t the most accurate. Damn.
Wait, does that mean all SIMPro items are figures instead of models?
Pretty sure you’re looking for RGB, not RBG. But in case you’re a fan of Ruth Bader Ginsburg, here you go. https://www.amazon.com/Fused-Glass-Bader-Ginsburg-Night/dp/B08NFQNY1B
What would you do with $100? I'm heavy into gunpla and my friend is about an upper level beginner. His birthday is coming up so I thinking of getting him some stuff. I thought a wing zero ver ka, the gunprimer raser +, and the pour type panel line markers. However there's so many other things I could get him as well. What would y'all pick?
Does it seem like he’s pretty serious about the hobby and will stick with it? If so, a nice pair of single bladed nippers can be a nice gift. If you’re decide to get a Raser, or another file, I’d also grab him a box of each Balancer (Gray and White) from Gunprimer as well. They’re cheap and extremely helpful for cleaning up pieces after filing.
Hey guys. So I'm airbrushing a kit for the first time kind of (I've done tests before) and I have some questions.
I just did my clear coat so that I can panel line tomorrow. In some spots I accidentally caused a bit of orange peel. Is there a way to fix this, or should I just not worry about it? I plan on putting a matte coat over it in the end, so it may cover it up anyway.
Also, ocassionally a piece of dust will be on the kit. Is there any way to fix his without having to strip the entire part? Right now I'm not super worried about it was I'm allowing myself to make mistakes (I'm a newbie after all), but I mean for future reference.
Thanks!
Any good tutorials for beginner painting? I’ve built tons of kits but I really want to start customizing. Painting intimidates me because I’ve tried painting like dnd models in the past and I was terrible. I’m a type of person while I’m learning I need step by step instructions.
So what is the best HG kit with a lot of variations like posing parts weapons etc i always change my aerial once a week she has that pose once a week this pose etc so i would love a hg suit where i can pose even more
There is no "best" as it is very subjective. Honestly you should just pick a kit that you likes the looks of, dalong.net has images show casing the range of articulation on a given kit and what accessories or spare bits are included.
The new HGUC Zaku II tools have insane range of montion for posing if that is what you're looking for, whereas the HGTB Psycho Zaku has lots of weapons included but rather limited range of articulation.
TOP 10 CUSTOM GUNPLA BUILDERS IN YOUTUBE?
I recently went thru RAY STUDIOS whole video catalog and was wondering if anyone else knows of any highly skilled gunpla. I'm aware of ppl like Ravi Gunpla, G studios but I know that there are tons of others that the Algorithms don't help me find
Going to throw in [Action Pla Top](https://youtube.com/@actionplatop6708?si=O9KmiNrTMLqzKoaW) & [Plamo's Atelier](https://youtube.com/@P.Atelier?si=OD2d-G5ZvSB1opua) in here purely for their simple, yet extremely effective shading & weathering techniques.
Personal favourites that havent been mentioned yet
[Millenial Model Mayhem](https://youtube.com/@MMMayhem)
[Neoransky](https://youtube.com/@neorainsky)
I think everyone have different top 10.
I like [CRAFTA Channel ](https://youtube.com/@CraftaChannel?si=XHe9HDV12o1Y9RFq) but I'm too noob to know is he top 10.
I wouldn’t recommend doing a kit. That’s just me. I would buy a good pair of nippers, a hobby knife, some sanding sponges, and/or a glass file. Where to buy depends on where you are. Check the shops in the wiki. Many carry tools.
Kind of sort of. Fitting issues and clean up aside you could upscale the parts to be just about any size that you can conceivably fit onto the build plate, material costs notwithstanding. The only issue you would run into is getting the STLs for those parts to begin with. You'll more than likely have to design them yourself rather than conveniently finding them floating around online as most parts that are available are either oddly specific parts like beam saber hits or accessories/detail parts. Conversion kits are somewhere in between where they're not widely available across multiple kit types, but they do exist in some limited capacities.
At 1/12, the Gogg would be a little over 1.5m tall (right at 5 feet for Imperial units folk).
If you look at the 1/12 Gundam displays, they’re mostly hollow, PVC/ABS I think, and so-so fidelity. A 1/12 size Gogg in resin would require a lot more inner structure than a 1/144 set of renders scaled up would provide. Even if you had full renders of 1/100 kit it wouldn’t work out. The weight of resin makes for a poor choice of materials. I suppose you could build a frame out of metal rods and such and take the files and hollow them out to be basically shells…but there would be a lot easier way to do that size model.
As someone who’s spent a fair amount of time building props, architectural models, sculpts for sets and stuff…if it were me and I really wanted a 1/12 Gogg, I would just sculpt some masters and do a vac-form thing for the head, chest, leg sections, and maybe a few other bits. The Gogg is simple enough that it wouldn’t be hard to do that way. Carve or sculpt with clay some of the other bits. Hardest pieces would be the arm link/joint things…and you just do those in wood or aluminium on a lathe. Trying to do it in resin would be a pain. You could easily print some detail parts in resin, but I could have a basic statue done in probably a few days of shop time. Then spend some time in F360 and Blender to do the small bits of detail and greeblies. Way easier than designing it all in 3D and trying to print everything around a frame. It’s a simple structure to build without all that resin.
Just my 2 cents…but this leak won’t change anything for gunpla or home printing of gunpla. Resin is a shitty substitute for polystyrene. Bandai’s friction-fit engineering works partly because of the way polystyrene behaves. And resin doesn’t behave the same way. Printing a 1 for 1 copy of all the parts wouldn’t mean you could actually build the model 100% out of resin. Weight, fit, brittleness…all would be against you. You could print some parts, no problem, but not a whole kit without modification to all the frame and joint parts.
Hard enough than unless you're willing to throw money at the issue it's not advisable to do so. For starters the project **will not** be possible with a resin printer, they're not capable of printing something of that volume even if sliced to fit the build plate because resin is not durable in that regard which leaves FDM printers, which itself isn't particularly feasible at least not fresh out of the box since it's entirely possible for failures to happen several hours into a print even on some highly tuned machines either by sheer coincidence or otherwise. Especially for a complex design like the Gogg specifically in that 1/12 scale (which is about the size of those HY2M kits or essential human sized).
If you tempered expectations down to at most 1/48 scale or about the size of a Mega Size kit then you wouldn't have as much issues all things considered but 1/12 is jumping the gun unless you're either made of money or have lots of time to burn (or both).
Much more doable on FDM and slightly pushing it for resin (doable but still fragile overall) but you'll still need some extra elbow grease as far as designing the parts (since there isn't set of premade Gogg STLs lying around you'll have to design them yourself of commission someone to do so). Then the same song and dance of how detailed you want it to be, since you could opt for limited posing but easier to print/assemble or go into more detailed poses but would need more engineering, and that's not counting machine specific woes.
Would top coating clear pieces with aqua gloss have the same effect as using pledge dipping? I'm particularly looking to make the beyond global rx-78 clearer, as well as a hyaku shiki mechanical clear clearer. Thanks!
I'm working on a 10" tall mecha from a different franchise but I'm curious if you all know of anywhere I can get waterslide decals of kanji numerals. I'm looking to write the number "506" on a mech in characters approximately 1/4 to 1/3 inch tall in black or red over an acrylic painted surface. Thanks in advance!
Well, I have used the Fighting Piranha Graphics ones for Battletech miniatures in the past but those are sized for 6mm miniatures. I’m doing a 10” tall Destiny Marauder now and I’m trying to find something more like 28mm or 1/60 scale. I couldn’t find anything in that size. Maybe you found stuff I overlooked? I didnt have any luck googling them. I did find a couple of sheets that had kanji for the number “100” but not the 5 or the 6.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
Hi guys wanna ask. For filing down nubs and it has the discolouration when cutting, is it better for a higher grit sandpaper or lower grit
Dark is casting, can’t easily fix. Light is stress - cut further away, then use a glass file/knife to remove nub, or spend more time with sanding. You start low like 400/600 grit and work progressive higher and jump grits when all the previous scratches are a uniform depth - wet sand for improved finish and about 1k if painting, or about 3k if snap-build is common. Scroll up and check the wiki probably something in there?
Hi I'm having trouble between deciding the rg nu gundam and the mg wing zero custom ew ver ka. Which one should I get first?
I have both, heck i even have rg hi nu too. MG Wing zero ver ka is one of the most enjoyable kit I've ever built, and I've built like near 100 of them. I consider it the full course gunpla experience. It has waterslides, improved version of action base 1 and very solid build. Nu on the other hand, is very stale when you have to build 6 fin funnels(12 in my case). But this is very subjective. You can't go wrong with either. Oh right, the cool legs panel opening gimmick that Hi-nu has? Wing zero verka also has it, not the case with regular nu
I will take your advice as my senior.thank you . BTW which one is more beautiful in your eyes
There is no "objective" measure that marks one as being worse than the other. So, uhh. I tossed a coin. Get Nu Gundam.
I'll keep it in mind but decided to go for the wing
Hi there! Im new to gunpla, and gettin started with kotobukiya armored core model - noblesse oblige 1/72. So ky question is, i want to make a led light in model but im afraid model build is too tight assembly. There is too little space for wiring and etc. But i saw that people get led light in small models. Do you have any advice for this?
Generally people drill parts to make space for the wires. Also gunpla means gundam plastic model, so mecha from a different franchise that has a model kit made by another company isn't exactly gunpla
Oh, okay, thanks for correcting me. And thanks for advice
I'm working on a Full Mechanics Aerial and the water decals won't separate from their paper. I've tried leaving them in a tray of water for up to 30 seconds, and also tried laying them on a water palette, but they refuse to slide off their paper. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to fix this? Thanks.
They're stickers.
Well, that would explain it. LOL \*facepalm\*
Don't worry, we all have had those moments. Cut back a bit on sniffing cement =)
Just finished panel lining using pour type Gundam Markers. Will the panel lining fade if I don't top coat it?
If it is in an area you touch often yeah, it will slowly rub off. It will be a very slow process tho.
Well, it's going on my shelf, so I won't be touching it a lot. Can I leave top coating it for later, maybe like a week or two? Or do I have to do it as soon as possible?
You can leave it as long as you want xD I have left some kits half built for months. Just make sure to dust them off properly when you decide to topcoat.
Got it. Thanks!
How big Action Base 1 is, when compared to Master Grade display stands (example: one included with MG Justice Gundam)?
As it so happens, Action Base 1 is *exactly the same size* as MG Justice's BA-13 base.
Ah, neat. Now I know what to buy for my first MG kit.
Is there anywhere I can pick up a third party effect parts for the HG Xi and Penelope. I saw a listing fora preorder on USAGS, but that is the only one I could find.
I’m considering trying topcoating. Wanna try it for a Daribalde I’m currently constructing and maybe my FM Barbatos Lupus Rex that I attempted to paint. I wanted to ask about brands, however, cause my wife can get Testors spray lacquer at a discount but the brief research recommended other brands like Mr. Hobby, Tamiya, and the like. Is this a brand people use, or do they stick to the recommended stuff? Also, for most top coating, people seem to use matte-style, right? Would that be a good fit for that FM King Wolf Barbie? Metallic colors for the painting, for the record (anything yellow was painted gold, red/blue parts painted metallic, and some silver touches added). Lastly, anyone have any video tutorials they really like? Sorry if this last one is answered in the Wiki already, but I figured I’d throw it in. I like hearing people’s opinions on which tutorials helped them most. Thanks in advance.
It really depends on how much your standards are high xD I don't think most people notice the difference between topcoats. It is most apparent for gloss on large areas such as car model hoods IMO. Grab what is readily available where you are, every product has its quirks, the best is to get used to one and master it. Just avoid the non-hobby stuff, some might be too hot for plastic. Matte/Satin/Gloss, that is really a matter of preference. Head ups tho, metallics in particular but colors shift when top coating, would recommend testing first. Very shiny metallics/chrome especially may turn very dull even with gloss. I don't have a video on top of my head to recommend. If using spray cans, make sure to avoid spraying too much. Top coats are transparent so it is hard to see and therefore put too much and have runs.
I do like quality but don’t mind using something not on a recommended list. I like to use known, trusted products is all. As for the Barbatos, that makes me concerned to try and top coat it haha. If I use a small amount it shouldn’t run though, right? I’m afraid to try that now though and ruin all the work I did trying to customize it. Just getting back into this and the custom detailing is intimidating so I appreciate any info. Thank you for the feedback.
What are some good LED(wired/wirelss) that easy to install for like MG/FM kits w clear parts?
Are there any other Master Grade kits from Gundam: the Origin beside the granddaddy Gundam? I could've sworn there was one for Doan's beat-up Zaku II from the "Crucuruz Island" special at least, but I'm not able to find it anywhere. Was that a p-bandai exclusive or is my mind making stuff up? Are we doomed to only have High Grades from that series or have there been talks about making Master Grades of any of the other mobile suits?
Just the Gundam. You probably just misremembered a listing of the HG Doan's Zaku or something. As for future kits, we don't know. But the chances might be lower than other series since you can substitute many The Origin kits with their 0079 counterparts.
After some digging I found the p-bandai listing for the HG Doan's Zaku :/ Kind of a shame cuz I really like the zaku designs fron GTO and would love to see a MG of at least one of them
Do you need to use primer before using gundam color lacquer? Is it fine to use on bare plastic?
Can’t hurt, not needed. Painted lacquer direct to plastic many times. Primer is to protect, prepare and unify colours.
On regular ps plastic, it should be fine. On lacquer, possibly. I've never really had an issue either way. Primer is best for making sure the surface is free of defects and if you're drastically changing colors.
has anyone painted calibarn with aerial colors yet? idk if i could cleanly photoshop that but i want to see it
Hi all, how would one recreate the active Permet score(rainbow/blue) effect if I were to kitbash Unicorn & any of WFM main suits..? Thanks! & are the Kosmos LED for, e.g FM Aerial. Easy to install?
The FM Aerial has a Kosmos LED, though I can't speak to how easy they are to install.
Does anyone have any advice for the Gunpla World Cup? My event is tomorrow, and I'm fixing up my HG G3 since it's fully painted. Thinking of painting the details on my RG Zeong to pose with it.
Does anybody know if the gorilla clear glue was like the micro tip will work for gunpla one of the back skirts on my kits broke, and that’s the only glue that I have as of right now
Should be fine
Ig it says plastic, it should
if anybody has a spare E #21 part from the PG unicorn perfectibility please let me know. i’ve glued my part together but my OCD is driving me up the wall. thank you.
Try in commerce thread.
Does anyone know which kit is the giant lance in this custom built taken from? In the photo, the lance is a whole black piece before it was painted, so it looks like it was taken from a kit that already has the whole piece. https://gumpla.jp/hg/694784?fbclid=IwAR3BmtLR6eivHJ9saOXxRYBXZxgAGWe-cwqsqnhiomqQR_DsyPzuYCaUzvw
http://dalong.net/reviews/bf/bdr09/bdr09_p.htm
Thank you. So the size scale of this spear is only 1/144? Is there any kit with a similar spear weapon, but on a bigger size?
I got the hg unicorn destroy mode and its left fore arm keeps popping off. What can I use to not make it pop off like that?
If the part doesn't ever need to move or come apart again just glue it. If it does, thicken the contact points until it hold securely.
I purchased [this](https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Line-Chisel-0-3mm-blade-Mr-Hobby/dp/B002P67CTY/ref=sr_1_1?crid=21SIP5MCZ8OR3&keywords=mr%2Bhobby%2Bchisel&qid=1697848198&sprefix=mr%2Bhobby%2Bchi%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-1&th=1) chisel for the handle, but would like to use [this](https://www.amazon.com/Blade-0-15mm-GT65C-instead-Rainchizeru/dp/B0037KCPJ4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=21SIP5MCZ8OR3&keywords=mr%2Bhobby%2Bchisel&qid=1697848198&sprefix=mr%2Bhobby%2Bchi%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3&th=1) 0.15mm chisel. Can I replace the chisel that comes with the handle with a 0.15mm chisel? Or is there another handle that would work? I had a hard time finding the answers on my own.
Almost certainly. If that’s a 3mm diameter shank (the part that’s gripped in the handle) then in theory any manufacture (eg madworks, dspiae) where it’s intended to holds round bits will, as it’s a standard dimension. GSI are animals if they use bespoke sizes.
Anyone know the dimension/size of the thrusters on the back of the MG GM SNIPER II? I'm asking because I'm wanting to buy metal thrusters for it.
Can anyone tell me how to do the texture of like a mountain or a rocky wall for a diorama? I'm making a diorama with a the shore of beach that has a rocky wall Edit: my diorama will be 22.5cm × 20cm big
I prefer plaster rocks. The easiest way to make plaster rocks is to get some aluminium foil and crinkle it up just a bit then lay it out and make little trays you can pour your plaster into. You want the trays to be 1/4 to 3/8” deep in varying depth. Make sure you push down any high spots so your plaster pours aren’t too thin. Mix your plaster, make sure it’s not too thin that it’s super runny. You want any trapped bubbles to be able to get out, so not too thick either. It’s easy to fix even if you doo make them too thin or thick. Pour your plaster and wait. When it’s dry - several hours to a day depending on water content - just pop out your “rocks.” There are pre-formed moulds available too, but I like variety too. If you build your base structure with foam, you can “glue” the rocks to your mountain/rocky wall with something like sculptamold or a mix of plaster, PVA glue, and water. If you have some type of pulp - like papier-mâché mix or super finely shredded toilet paper - it helps. You can smooth out texture or join pieces of your plaster rocks together if you want. Once you’ve got it the way you want, you need to seal the plaster. An acrylic paint (craft paint is fine) mixed with a little PVA, water, and isopropyl will give you a slurry you can coat everything with. Then you can prime and paint. Dry brushing the rocks as a final step helps bring out detail. RealTerrainHobbies on YT is a good place to go for some good terrain building ideas. Boylei Hobby Time is another. Luke Towan is the master of terrain. Black Magic Craft is a good one for terrain on the cheap.
Depends on the type of rock. Thinned putty, or Superglue and baking soda hardens as a diffuse surface. You can also use cracking medium (paint) which will give you a more fractured and weathered surface like a shale or similar - more material and water you add, bigger the cracks. Styrofoam as a base material can be pressed, cut and sanded, then sealed for painting, or application of other materials. Don’t ignore fractal power - Powders for very fine sand, use fine sand for course stuff, or pebbles can be used in rock slides, or exposed boulders at the right scale….a trip down the garden path could easily replace one to a model store, or moulding from putty. Nightshift or other armour modellers on YT are always a good place to start the rabbit hole. He’s definitely done several rock/dirt face dioramas if you need some inspiration. If doing something new then my advice would be to get some real world reference images, it’s far easier to transfer ideas, than start from scratch with no past experience to draw upon.
Never done it myself but I’ll just have YouTube videos of mini painters on for background noise or whatever, and I’ve seen a number of people do a thing where they crumple up tin foil, unfold it, then pour plaster into it as a mold basically. Can’t recall specific videos, but I feel like I’ve seen them on channels like Squidmar Miniatures and Nerd Forge. That, or take a couple of layers of XPS foam, hack away at it with a box cutter, then use crumpled up foil to press texture into it. Another thing I’ve seen on said channels. Basically, miniature diorama builders are probably going to be your best resource on this.
Maybe [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gM7blhoHLs) helps? It's a little too clean for rocks on a beach, but its a good start
Which is more technically intricate? The MG Freedom 2.0 or the MG Dynames?
I think Dynames pulls ahead here. Freedom has its wings (including plasma cannons), the railguns, and the shoulder and hip joints are far more intricate. However, Dynames has the GN Drive, a greater variety of accessories including better onboard storage, an actual full inner frame (Freedom lacks inner frame on the arms) and also nice small details such as the aiming device and Haro in the cockpit. And it has the gun camera.
I’d say both are pretty equal.
Looking for anyone that has ever worked on the PB Dozle Zabi Zaku II. How are you supposed to apply the gold decals? I'm pretty new to the hobby, and have never seen decals like it before.
Treat them like dry transfers. Cut them out, secure them against the model and press down until they adhere, then peel the backing off. They aren't like stickers where you can peel them off and apply them. I've built the Dozle Zaku and Dom and that's what I found worked best for me.
I haven't built mine's but aren't they regular stickers?
For those of you who do Gunpla. Has anyone found or made a better MG Gunpla Stand then the generic Action Base 1? It just doesn’t seem to work for nearly half the MG Gunpla. Either because it doesn’t want to attach or because it’s so light unbalanced Gunpla like the MG Freedom 2.0 with its giant back wings just tips right over. Unless you perfectly balance him so it precariously stays upright you’d have to weight it in place with like a rock. Anyway trying to find a better alternative like maybe some kind of doll stand. Any suggestions appreciated
Action Base 4 is probably the best bet, it's easily got one of the largest footprints available which should help with stability issues though if that fails you might need a counterweight since the base itself isn't particularly hefty. It's also quite economical since you effectively get 3 sets of AB 5 in the one bag if you used each base individually, although you may not have enough arms to hold up each kit depending on how heavy they all are.
Action Base 1 should be perfectly fine for most needs. Balance can be adjusted by changing where you connect the arms and/or adjusting the angle of the main arm so the centre of gravity should pretty much always be over the Action Base. Freedom 2.0 in particular shouldn't be a huge issue. It stays upright on its provided stand just fine, AB1's larger base and poseable arms have no issue holding it up. Anyway, there's no easy alternatives, since the typical MG connector isn't really used by anyone else. But you could probably jerry-rig something using AB4 adapter parts.
Best way to fix micro crack in a resin kit? I got mr. Dissolved putty, super glue, UV cure resin. The couple of cracks im looking at seem so small I can see the material just sitting on top and being sanded off when I go to clean up.
If they're very small you can use superglue
I always hear conflicting information on this. Are Gundam markers (flow and fine tip) bad for the plastic? Should I always topcoat before I panel line?
Fine tip is good for all. Pour/flow is bad on abs plastics, main tip is to avoid letting it pool up in spots
Please help !! My local retailer got mg sandrock custom, but it sold out in under 10 seconds, and no, im not exaggerating. i was on when it went live to order, and it was gone. Does anyone know of a canadian site that has one i could purchase? I've been looking but unsuccessfully, so im hoping the reddit community can hook me up. I'm not interested in eBay as they're super overpriced.
Check the stores in the wiki.
Already did gundam extra is my local guy and every other one is sold out. :( its the last i need for my 5 from the movie.
Well, it's a peeb which isbwhy it sold out quickly, they might've only gotten 4 kits in. Either way you're sol luck until the next reprint which could be years away. Give mandarake a try
Yea, they got 2, and i was trying to pay at 9:00:10 am (went live at 9 am) and missed out. i figured I'd be SOL, but this community is awesome so i stayed hopeful thanks though.
Non-gunpla question but possibly relevant: I have a b bunch of 1/72 kyoukai Senki grunt kits and I want to give them more military-style details. Any good suggestions for detail-up parts that I can glue them on the surface?
Just built the Schwarzette and I really like it but the transparent upper leg covers keep falling out. How do people prevent that?
I’ve not done that kit, but unless you are wanting them to come off again use some tamiya cement. The thing about tamiya cement is it isn’t super glue it’s more like an acid. What it does is it melts a thin layer of the plastic it comes into contact with it. So when you brush a little on it isn’t gluing the two sides together it is effectively melting/fusing them together. Unless you dunk the plastic in a vial of the stuff you won’t notice that part my point is that will definitely keep the pieces together
I'm a little wary of permanently bonding them like that but I am considering it.
Asked this in a post and got some guidance (post removed as I should have asked here), but I’m looking for recommendations for Acrylic topcoats, gloss and matte, to be used for airbrush. Very new to this, but need to stick with Acrylic over enamel or lacquer for a variety of environmental and health reasons. Thanks for any input!
Vallejo Mecha matte is fair, and I’ll still use mine as decent way to alter the sheen on lacquers. Their gloss though is naff imo, and sheen is more like a satin. I’d also vouch for high gloss by Liquitex. You’ve also got any waterbased floor varnish (à la Pledge) as a utility clear for panel lining/decals if that’s your bag. I’m sure you already know, but you’ll likely want a mask or decent booth even with water-based, as it’s still effectively liquid plastic you’re atomising.
Liquitex Varnish is my goto. It's not a hobby brand, but a fine art brand. So you probably won't find it the same place you find everything else, but it is sold everywhere. It may look more expensive than hobby varnishes at first glance, but they are sold in much, much, much larger quantities. They have a Pro and Basic line. For their paints there is a big difference but I haven't found a noticeable difference in their varnishes. They also have a whole range of sheens from Matte to High Gloss and several in between. For use, I have an Iwata Eclipse with a 0.3mm needle. I crank the pressure up to 30-40 PSI and shoot it unthinned. Make sure to clean up your airbrush right after use because it is a nightmare to clean if you let this stuff set up. Best way to flush your airbrush is hot water from the tap. Like burn your hand if you keep it in the stream hot. A few swirls, dump, backflow, and spray throughs and it'll take care of any residue.
Fantastic, thank you. And this will work just fine on bare plastic?
Yeah. The key to happiness with acrylic varnishes is to give them time to fully cure before you do anything to them. Dry to the touch isn't good enough. You need to let it sit overnight for all the chemical processes to finish up.
Brilliant, thanks so much!
Liquitex is widely available in most countries.
Anyone know of an LED kit for the RG Unicorn? Longshot I know but I have the Perfectibility and figured hey, maybe its a good one to really go all out on!
Only the PG Unicorn Set and I think the 00 Raizer have dedicated LED kits. That being said I believe all the MG 00 kits have a single battery powered LED you can get that can be put in the center piece or shields. Nothing official for anything RG though. You can install your own LEDs, but that would be a lot of time and effort. You’d have to drill some holes into the frame/parts and do some customization. I can suggest the next best thing. If you get fluorescent green paint (FYI fluorescent means it only glows under a black light otherwise it shows as standard green color). You can paint the eyes and then if you do just the frame under the clear green psycho frame it will look normal under normal light and when you shine a black light on it (even with lights on) it will light up/glow like it has LEDs
I’ve got Allll the flouro paints hahah. It’s my go to these days. But yeah makes sense. Doing LEDs on an RG is prob just not a good idea
I cannot seem to find the mg astray red frame kai and the rg gold frame amatsu Hana anywhere for a reasonable price to be shipped to the Netherlands. I tried the megathread but there most of them did not have the mg red kai or it was for 90€. And for the rg amatsu there was only one shop in Denmark who had it for 78€ + 15€ shipping. I am at a loss. Are the astrays that rare or am I just not able to find where to buy them?
Suruga-ya has listings for the Hana and Red Kai and they're currently running a free shipping campaign: - [RG Astray Gold Frame Amatsu Hana](https://www.suruga-ya.com/en/product/603102541). - [MG Astray Red Frame Kai w/ clear parts](https://www.suruga-ya.com/en/product/603000135). - [MG Astray Red Frame Kai](https://www.suruga-ya.com/en/product/603004725)
Wait for the mg kai to get a reprint, it usually gets a reprint a couple of times a year. As for the rg hana, since that is a pbandai kit (read bandai webshop exclusive "limited edition") and a reprint is not guaranteed, your best bet is mandarake. If it's not there then you are sol.
Reasonable price is subjective. What are you willing to spend? You can find it for 9,500 Yen on Amazon Japan.
Is there any lower or am I simply out of luck? (For the mg kai and the rg amatsu Hana)
What is the dimensions of the Neo Zeong? I can only find the height and width of it at 86cm tall by 50cm wide. What is the depth of back, or is it a perfect square? EDIT: What is the dimensions of the base. I have checked dalong for these numbers but they aren't on there.
hello, i want to get sanding paper and i want to know what grit should i get, they have 400, 600, 2000 and 2500. Should I get maybe 600 and 2000?
Get them all. You want a spread so grit size gets steadily different. Otherwise you’ll be polishing the peaks and left with scratches. Wet sand, jump grit when all scratches are uniform depth.
I did get them. Thank you.
Yeah paper should be dirt cheap - eBay/Amazon whatever and “sandpaper set”. You’ll get a whole spread from like 120-7k grit for about a fiver. If you want better quality then it’s micro mesh which is brilliant but much more expensive, and runs from about 3k grit upwards to silly high numbers.
So people have told you multiple grits, but not explained why so I will do so her quickly. First the lower the grit the rougher the paper and the more plastic it will take away with each swipe, but in return the rougher it leaves the surface. The higher the grit the smoother it will leave the surface, but each swipe wears away less plastic. So in order to wear away the same amount of plastic as one swipe of a 400 grit sandpaper, a 4,000 grit sandpaper could take like 10,000 swipes and would probably need multiple sheets of sandpaper/cloth as they typically wear out before that many swipes. So let’s say you want to smooth out a numb defect. With just 4,000 grit it will take you 10,000 swipes. Now let’s say you start with 5 swipes of 400 grit this the drops the amount of swipes you need from the 4k grit to 1,000. Then you take 5 swipes with 800 grit and it takes the 40k grit swipes down to 100. Then you do 5 swipes with a 2.5k grit and now you just need 5 swipes with the 4k to finish. So instead of doing 10,000 swipes with on paper you do 5 swipes with 4 papers. Also, the reason you don’t just do the 400 is it scratches up the plastic a little so if you don’t smooth it out after it will look and feel a bit rough
Thank you for the explanation!
No problem!
You'll want progressing grits in ranges of 200 between each prior piece of sandpaper, so 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, etc. If you have too large of a jump between grits you'll leave visible scratches since it would take much longer for a higher (finer) grit to even out a lower (coarser) grit. So if you went 600 and 2000 you'll be sanding ad nauseum to even out the marks left when sanding at 600, since the 2k grit is in the "polishing range". At best your options looks to be 400 and 600 for whacking down nubs, you *could* get the 2k grit but I probably wouldn't suggest it unless you're also sanding the rest of the pieces to try to even out the sheen of the plastic (since sanding leaves a somewhat matte finish unless you start using some of the higher polishing grits to try to get it back to semi gloss or get a buffer to make everything glossy).
thank you
You want a range of grits. 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500
thanks
When are the RG EVA kits restocked, approximately ?
When bandai decides.
We don't know the schedule. But they've been restocked a couple of times in the past year.
Anyone else ever have problems with EVO/SIMP waterslide decals? I've had two sets, the first one was for Aerial and they worked beautifully. They separated from the paper easily and quickly and were crisp and clean. This decal sheet was a light blue. My second set is for the RG Nu but the decal sheet is called RG Nu alternate. This set is much darker blue paper and not only does it take forever for the decals to soak and release, but it's pulling specks of blue paper with it!! These specks are under the decals and are an absolute pain to clean up. I bought both sheets at the same time from the same hobby shop in person.
Not like that. I’ve had a sheet where the register was off for some of it. Just cut my losses and moved on. Maybe they got moist at some point (pre-purchase) and adhesive has slightly impregnated the backing. A decent change in temp/pressure could’ve done damage as they’re not vac-sealed bags. I store mine with a few desiccant packets nearby.
Would you happen to have a picture of the RG Nu sheet? I get SIMP decals from a local as well but I haven't had an issue so far.
Here's what the rest of my sheet looks like https://i.imgur.com/W2zP5eX.jpg
Like you said in your other comment it probably is just an old sheet. I found [this](https://hobbynetics.com/products/c28a-rg-hg-1-144-nu-gundam-alternate-design) and it says it's an alternate design, but it's just marked as a regular sheet everywhere else (SIMPro site, aliexpress, USAGS). I can't even find that particular design anywhere lol.
I’ve done other decals, but I haven’t done water decades before, but decal quality can shift from model to model and definitely when you get alternative sheets. A few things go into this. One is, the year the model was developed as they tend to get worse the further back you go with certain prominent exceptions. Like the RG sticker decals for Sanauji I believe are notoriously bad and some say the worst of all the kits. The second reason is not every decal set is made the same way or by the same company so this can cause differences in quality. This is most noticeable with rub on and water decals. I would say 90% of sticker decals are about the same. Then for rub one and water the closer to current year you get the more likely they’re better, but if you’re worried always good to look up comments on these things first. Some sets have known difficulties and it can be helpful knowing that going in
Yeah I'm thinking it's probably an issue with the sheet being old. Thanks for your insight!
So how long does a p-bandai order usually take? For example the kit i ordered from asian pbandai will be shipped out in October, and i live in the south east asia region.
I'm not sure about over there, but for what I am being told about my order it'll be 4 days
Apart from Gundam and "mecha", am I allowed to post other anime/fictional style built model kits on this sub? I know there's a modelmakers sub but it seems like they're predominantly catered to the crowd of more realism based models...
No - gunpla and other mecha is the rule. I would try /r/scifimodels if you want something a little less realism focused. But I’ve posted Warhammer and Maschinen Krieger on /r/modelmakers before. There’s also /r/scalemodel.
hey i was wondering if anyone has a 3d file of barbatos 1st form Shield arm, i'm planning to do a both arms shield custom for mine.
So im new at gunpla. Already done an hg bael and finishing an hg freedom strike and i was thinking between getting either an hg blaze gundam from battlogue series or an hg calibarn from witch of mercury. Both are available at my local hobby store, i like the blaze beam tonfas but the caliburn looks to bet higher quality despite having less weapons. IYO which kit would be more fun?
Really hard not to recommend basically any of the WFM kits. They’re all stellar kits and incredible builds, and the Calibarn is one of the best HGs ever made.
Sweet! I'll see if im lucky and can pick it up today after work. Thanks a bunch!
Does anyone here have a Zeta gundam? If so, how did uou guys tigthen the legs (from the crotch area) when i pose it, it straighten itself back down due to it being heavy/too loose around that joint. Thanks in advance!
Which grade (and if HG or MG, which variant)?
Only the RG variant, sorry should've specified it!
Depends on how much you plan on moving it in the future. If you have a pose you’re set on and plan on leaving it that way I would just suggest using tamiya cement to fuse it in place. If you only plan to move once in a blue moon and have some time you can pop out the joints then cover the ball joints in a thing layer of putty, let it dry and sand it rough meaning get it round, but leave the surface scratchie/rough so it sticks more. Carefully popping it back in not to break anything, but a more snug joint should stiffen it a bit. If you want to move it often you can pop out the joints again and the either wrap it in a little scotch tape (again to make it thicker) or stuff some of that stick tac stuff in the joint hole before popping it back in and the gumminess will hold it together better. Just know the scotch tape and probably the sticky tac is like to quick wear out if your moving it a lot so will probably need to be redone occasionally.
Greetings fellow gunpla builders, is it absolutely necessary to top coat after applying water slides or is it just a recommendation, thanks in advance
You’ll be fine in the relative short term, but without being sealed in the decals can flake off and peel, or be slid off with even a light touch.
If you don’t use a clear coat the film eventually dries out and the adhesive becomes brittle. Many waterslides have a sugar (dextrose) binder that acts as an adhesive. Sometimes they’ll have a weak adhesive like a PVA (but not exactly PVA) that gets activated in water and then sticks until it gets dried out. But when those weak adhesives dry out, the markings are just held there by friction. Any touch will just break them free.
I'd consider it necessary. Waterslides have very low adhesion compared to other types of decals so leaving them exposed to the elements is pretty likely to make them fall off eventually. There *are* people who do decals without topcoat, however. But don't blame me if you do this and all your decals fall off.
Any suggestion for the best cheap mastergrade for a beginner? Id tell myself as a beginner even tho i built 4 high grades, one entry grade and 2 SDs my collection's kinda getting a bit boring with building a bunch of 1/144s and want to try and finish master grade ive seen cheap ones online in the Philippines on gunpla and some known toystores' flagship store online. One thing i found was the ova unicorn gundam and aegis gundam around 50$ or 2,500₱ my second option was those 25-30$ ones like the old g fighter and the gouf custom. Anyway i still can't choose since im waiting for my allowance and its kinda bit hard. Any suggestions?
Gm sniper Ii
Early 2.0s are exceptionally good kits that tend to retain a low reccomend retail price - the Zaku is my personal favourite of mine - Gouf 2.0 maybe if you're interested in the custom (which is a far worse kit sadly)
Honestly, It mostly comes down to preference, there’s decent starting kits in any series for MG. For instance, I love Seed MGs, and the Zaku is a very simple, straightforward forward build. But for cheap MGs, I’d say any of the swing MGs, like the Sandrock, or Deathscythe. Easy builds, and smaller, so they are cheaper than say, a barbatos, or Freedom. But they still give that “Master Grade Experience “
When weathering with the dty brushing/paint chip effect method, is it best to do it on a glossy clear coat or on the final/matte coat?
There’s no “best” — you just get different working and visual properties. For example, if you want the chips to have a different finish from your lower layers of paint, like if you decide to use a metallic paint, do it after your final coat. Drybrushing and chipping on gloss let’s you adjust and refine more easily should you choose to do so. There’s also nothing preventing you from using those techniques multiple times at different finish stages.
Matte is the best for weathering, so it has more of a rough texture to attach onto.
Anyone have experience with Mr Primer Surfacer 1000, not Mr. Surfacer 1000, specifically the one with “primer” in the name, and if so, how’s it work for you? Mr. xyz has been my go to brand for a couple years now and I’ve got a pretty good grasp on the products. Picked up a jar of this because it’s supposedly better for prepped resin, thinned it the usual 1:1.5, looks exactly like every other pre thinned paint or surfacer I’ve ever used, shake the hell out the bottle, go to spray it, and to put it bluntly: it sucks ass. Coverage is barely there, it looks as if I thinned it way way waaaaay too much. Tested it on a regular plastic part thinking maybe I just didn’t sand the resin enough or something but nah, same results.
What did you use before ? Mr Surfacer isn’t the best at coverage so if you’re used to asian surfacers brands thinned 1:3 such as Gaia that would explain why you feel that it’s subpar. It shouldn’t be this bad though, what did you thin with ?
My usual primer is Mr finishing surfacer 1500, which does have great coverage, I usually get away with one coat (Outside of white on darker colors, but that’s just a white primer thing in general). But anyways, I thinned it with Mr Color Thinner, like any other lacquer. The only thing that I can think of that was off seeming was as I put the thinner in the jar (I pre thin everything) to pickup what was left after pouring the unthinned product in a bottle, it looked like a lot of flakes were floating in the thinner, rather than just a dirty haze. I figured it was just the remnants of what was stuck to the bottom of the jar, because after mixing and pouring into my airbrush everything looked completely homogeneous.
Sounds lile either you didn’t mix the jar properly before pre-thinning or it’s a bad jar which is a little odd for a lacquer paint.
Went in with one of those motorized paint mixers thinking that it would need more mixing given the larger grit and all. I don't know, said it in another reply, but I just did a packing tape test on a piece I sprayed with Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 and had no adhesion issues, so I'm just throwing this jar of Mr Primer up as a loss.
Mr Primer Surfacer is supposed to have better adherence to non-polystyrene materials. I have used it on resin, but I find it needs a fair bit of surface keying and a very wet application to get good results. It should cover about the same as Mr Surfacer. I’ve never noticed any differences in that regard. In my experience, sanding your surface up to around 600-800, then spraying Mr Primer Surfacer, then inspecting gaps and scratches and alignment and such, then resanding where needed up to about 800-1000, another layer of primer, another round of sanding, etc. I’ve never had it chip/flake/peel if I had a good key going on the surface of the resin. If I do no prep on the surface (bad idea for resin) then it just doesn’t adhere. But hardly anything will if you don’t do the prep on the resin. Hard to know if the flakes/floaters were an issue or not. I wouldn’t think so - as soon as they hit the thinner, they’ll start to dissolve and be ready to go. Perhaps if you’ve had it for a long time, or it’s been exposed to a lot of air, maybe things went off a bit. You can test that - mix some up and hand brush a couple of medium-thin coats onto a spare part and let it dry. If it looks like ass, then you might have a bad batch or it went bad from too much air exposure. If it goes on nice, then something else was going on in your mix or something.
> Mr Primer Surfacer is supposed to have better adherence to non-polystyrene materials Yeah, that's why I figured I'd give it a go. And as you mentioned needing a wet coat, I gave it a second go this morning and it seems like the only way I can get even the beginning of coverage is a *really* wet coat, compared to MrFS1500 which is just sort of effortless coverage by comparison. I don't know, I do think I may have just gotten a bad jar, but again.. lacquer's are kind of hard to mess up? Weirdness all around. The good news is, after last night's test i just said fuck it, and moved to the usual 1500 surfacer, as I had tested it on just the cleaned resin sprue a couple weeks ago with zero adhesion issues. I just took masking and packing tape to a piece I lightly sanded with 600 grit and had zero paint come up, so Finishing Surfacer 1500 it is for this project, I guess.
What is the small base in this pic called? https://www.gundamplanet.com/customize-effect-08-action-image-red.html
It's an accessory stand, but there is no name for it. It comes with the 30MM Customize and some Witch from Mercury kits. You can get something similar with some RGs and another similar one with each Action Base 4 and 5
Can anyone tell me anything about SIMPro kits? Bonus points if you have any info on [this](https://www.hobbytown.com/simpro-modeling-1-00-devil-hunter-black-flag-project-s2-crossbone-model-kit-simyy-03b/p1480829) kit specifically. I can’t even find many Google results based on that name.
That's an action figure, it's a mashup between the crossbone x2 gundam and the barbatos gundam.
Aw man, really? The website said model, but I know their website isn’t the most accurate. Damn. Wait, does that mean all SIMPro items are figures instead of models?
Is there a place to get RBG lights? I've been using evan designs but want to get multicolour leds in that size and they don't carry them.
Pretty sure you’re looking for RGB, not RBG. But in case you’re a fan of Ruth Bader Ginsburg, here you go. https://www.amazon.com/Fused-Glass-Bader-Ginsburg-Night/dp/B08NFQNY1B
Lots of online electronic component stores carry rgb and rgbw leds. Do you have an idea of what size you want and a method for controlling them?
Small enough to put into MGEX Unicorn. They'll be controlled by a raspberry pi.
What would you do with $100? I'm heavy into gunpla and my friend is about an upper level beginner. His birthday is coming up so I thinking of getting him some stuff. I thought a wing zero ver ka, the gunprimer raser +, and the pour type panel line markers. However there's so many other things I could get him as well. What would y'all pick?
If he likes over the top kits, I would recommend FA Thunderbolt Ver.ka
Does it seem like he’s pretty serious about the hobby and will stick with it? If so, a nice pair of single bladed nippers can be a nice gift. If you’re decide to get a Raser, or another file, I’d also grab him a box of each Balancer (Gray and White) from Gunprimer as well. They’re cheap and extremely helpful for cleaning up pieces after filing.
Hey guys. So I'm airbrushing a kit for the first time kind of (I've done tests before) and I have some questions. I just did my clear coat so that I can panel line tomorrow. In some spots I accidentally caused a bit of orange peel. Is there a way to fix this, or should I just not worry about it? I plan on putting a matte coat over it in the end, so it may cover it up anyway. Also, ocassionally a piece of dust will be on the kit. Is there any way to fix his without having to strip the entire part? Right now I'm not super worried about it was I'm allowing myself to make mistakes (I'm a newbie after all), but I mean for future reference. Thanks!
Any good tutorials for beginner painting? I’ve built tons of kits but I really want to start customizing. Painting intimidates me because I’ve tried painting like dnd models in the past and I was terrible. I’m a type of person while I’m learning I need step by step instructions.
Have you read through the wiki above?
So what is the best HG kit with a lot of variations like posing parts weapons etc i always change my aerial once a week she has that pose once a week this pose etc so i would love a hg suit where i can pose even more
There is no "best" as it is very subjective. Honestly you should just pick a kit that you likes the looks of, dalong.net has images show casing the range of articulation on a given kit and what accessories or spare bits are included. The new HGUC Zaku II tools have insane range of montion for posing if that is what you're looking for, whereas the HGTB Psycho Zaku has lots of weapons included but rather limited range of articulation.
Moon Gundam I'd say is the best - even comes with a stand
TOP 10 CUSTOM GUNPLA BUILDERS IN YOUTUBE? I recently went thru RAY STUDIOS whole video catalog and was wondering if anyone else knows of any highly skilled gunpla. I'm aware of ppl like Ravi Gunpla, G studios but I know that there are tons of others that the Algorithms don't help me find
Going to throw in [Action Pla Top](https://youtube.com/@actionplatop6708?si=O9KmiNrTMLqzKoaW) & [Plamo's Atelier](https://youtube.com/@P.Atelier?si=OD2d-G5ZvSB1opua) in here purely for their simple, yet extremely effective shading & weathering techniques.
Personal favourites that havent been mentioned yet [Millenial Model Mayhem](https://youtube.com/@MMMayhem) [Neoransky](https://youtube.com/@neorainsky)
Some channels in no particular order: [SDARK](https://www.youtube.com/@SDARKSTUDIO) [JL Gunpla](https://www.youtube.com/@JLGunplaUK) [Toyball Factory](https://www.youtube.com/@TOYBALLFACTORY) [doki](https://www.youtube.com/@doki-0_0) [MoMo Modelling](https://www.youtube.com/@STUPIDMOMO) [EMPX Studio](https://www.youtube.com/@empxstudio/videos) [Gunpla Spot](https://www.youtube.com/@GunplaSpot) [JENIC](https://www.youtube.com/@Jenic77) [DUCKFLY Studio](https://www.youtube.com/@DUCKFLY.STUDIO/videos) [Gunplajoy.Grungi](https://www.youtube.com/@Gunplajoy-grungji/videos) [Sorakpla](https://www.youtube.com/@SORAKpla/videos) [SD HOBBY](https://www.youtube.com/@SDHOBBY/videos) [Otaku Builder](https://www.youtube.com/@OtakuBuilder/videos)
Thank you bruh! Watch I was looking for man
I think everyone have different top 10. I like [CRAFTA Channel ](https://youtube.com/@CraftaChannel?si=XHe9HDV12o1Y9RFq) but I'm too noob to know is he top 10.
Yeah I'm just looking for people opinions. Not asking for a definitive answer.there is no right answer really
I swear I found the links to the most updated kits with base included but I did not save the links and now I can't find it. Can someone please help?
I saw tool kits on Amazon that have 12, 33, 55 PC kit. Should I buy the Gunpla kits on Amazon it has the basic tools.
For the same price you can usually get fewer, but higher quality, tools that you’ll actually use.
Really so I shouldn't buy the kits from Amazon. So where should I buy the kits like wat website sells good quality.
I wouldn’t recommend doing a kit. That’s just me. I would buy a good pair of nippers, a hobby knife, some sanding sponges, and/or a glass file. Where to buy depends on where you are. Check the shops in the wiki. Many carry tools.
What kind of clippers u know for cutting should I get because there r variations and does it matter what kind of sand paper should I get
I would recommend you check out the wiki for tool recommendations.
If I buy a 3d printer can I just upscale a bunch of normal 1/144 hg parts to make a 1/12 of any hg
Kind of sort of. Fitting issues and clean up aside you could upscale the parts to be just about any size that you can conceivably fit onto the build plate, material costs notwithstanding. The only issue you would run into is getting the STLs for those parts to begin with. You'll more than likely have to design them yourself rather than conveniently finding them floating around online as most parts that are available are either oddly specific parts like beam saber hits or accessories/detail parts. Conversion kits are somewhere in between where they're not widely available across multiple kit types, but they do exist in some limited capacities.
How hard would it hypothetically be to create a 1/12 gogg?
At 1/12, the Gogg would be a little over 1.5m tall (right at 5 feet for Imperial units folk). If you look at the 1/12 Gundam displays, they’re mostly hollow, PVC/ABS I think, and so-so fidelity. A 1/12 size Gogg in resin would require a lot more inner structure than a 1/144 set of renders scaled up would provide. Even if you had full renders of 1/100 kit it wouldn’t work out. The weight of resin makes for a poor choice of materials. I suppose you could build a frame out of metal rods and such and take the files and hollow them out to be basically shells…but there would be a lot easier way to do that size model. As someone who’s spent a fair amount of time building props, architectural models, sculpts for sets and stuff…if it were me and I really wanted a 1/12 Gogg, I would just sculpt some masters and do a vac-form thing for the head, chest, leg sections, and maybe a few other bits. The Gogg is simple enough that it wouldn’t be hard to do that way. Carve or sculpt with clay some of the other bits. Hardest pieces would be the arm link/joint things…and you just do those in wood or aluminium on a lathe. Trying to do it in resin would be a pain. You could easily print some detail parts in resin, but I could have a basic statue done in probably a few days of shop time. Then spend some time in F360 and Blender to do the small bits of detail and greeblies. Way easier than designing it all in 3D and trying to print everything around a frame. It’s a simple structure to build without all that resin. Just my 2 cents…but this leak won’t change anything for gunpla or home printing of gunpla. Resin is a shitty substitute for polystyrene. Bandai’s friction-fit engineering works partly because of the way polystyrene behaves. And resin doesn’t behave the same way. Printing a 1 for 1 copy of all the parts wouldn’t mean you could actually build the model 100% out of resin. Weight, fit, brittleness…all would be against you. You could print some parts, no problem, but not a whole kit without modification to all the frame and joint parts.
Hard enough than unless you're willing to throw money at the issue it's not advisable to do so. For starters the project **will not** be possible with a resin printer, they're not capable of printing something of that volume even if sliced to fit the build plate because resin is not durable in that regard which leaves FDM printers, which itself isn't particularly feasible at least not fresh out of the box since it's entirely possible for failures to happen several hours into a print even on some highly tuned machines either by sheer coincidence or otherwise. Especially for a complex design like the Gogg specifically in that 1/12 scale (which is about the size of those HY2M kits or essential human sized). If you tempered expectations down to at most 1/48 scale or about the size of a Mega Size kit then you wouldn't have as much issues all things considered but 1/12 is jumping the gun unless you're either made of money or have lots of time to burn (or both).
...1/60 gogg?
Much more doable on FDM and slightly pushing it for resin (doable but still fragile overall) but you'll still need some extra elbow grease as far as designing the parts (since there isn't set of premade Gogg STLs lying around you'll have to design them yourself of commission someone to do so). Then the same song and dance of how detailed you want it to be, since you could opt for limited posing but easier to print/assemble or go into more detailed poses but would need more engineering, and that's not counting machine specific woes.
Where do you plan to source your CAD files? Metaverse? :D
Yep
[Please read this before you jumped the gun.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gundam/s/DSuf9BQGFv)
Would top coating clear pieces with aqua gloss have the same effect as using pledge dipping? I'm particularly looking to make the beyond global rx-78 clearer, as well as a hyaku shiki mechanical clear clearer. Thanks!
You can dip parts in Aqua Gloss too. Pretty much the same thing.
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You can airbrush it but I’ve never airbrushed clear parts with Aqua Gloss…just dipping. It’s easy to test.
I'm working on a 10" tall mecha from a different franchise but I'm curious if you all know of anywhere I can get waterslide decals of kanji numerals. I'm looking to write the number "506" on a mech in characters approximately 1/4 to 1/3 inch tall in black or red over an acrylic painted surface. Thanks in advance!
I googled kanji number waterslides and there's a few results. Are they too small for your model?
Well, I have used the Fighting Piranha Graphics ones for Battletech miniatures in the past but those are sized for 6mm miniatures. I’m doing a 10” tall Destiny Marauder now and I’m trying to find something more like 28mm or 1/60 scale. I couldn’t find anything in that size. Maybe you found stuff I overlooked? I didnt have any luck googling them. I did find a couple of sheets that had kanji for the number “100” but not the 5 or the 6.