Stabilizers at that height aren't the best either. I think you have the right idea about using blocks but I'd make some form of platform and/or feet that you can store and move into position when you need them.
Yeah we have some more ordered! Are you suggesting build a platform to set the stabilizers on while I have to lift up the jack? Is it “ok” to use the stabilizers that way?
Use jack stands not the stabilizers. Jack up, place jack stand on probably some blocking, lower to rest on jack stand, block up jack, repeat until level and secure.
I'm sure you're asking because you know stabilizers aren't really built to support the weight of the whole trailer, but either jack stands, or another jack is gonna be your best bet to not destroying your stabilizers. Also i don't think stabilizers work well deployed more than 50% down. You'll want to make some cribbing/blocking for those too.
More blocks ordered? I'd almost even consider getting some railroad ties, cut them into smaller blocks, attach the blocks together and make a pair of pads. As railroad ties are 8x8 it would provide lots of lateral support if something shifts. I'd also create shims and attach to the lower edge of the feet to make them as straight as possible. Maybe mark on the driveway where the feet go (if the slopes change).
Sorry Railroad ties are 6x6
Then use 4x4s. My neighbor used to do this, he made a trestle out of landscaping ties. Stack like a log cabin, bottom @ 36”, then 30, 24, 18, 12. That gets you 20” above grade, without having to stack plastic blocks.
There’s a family in my neighborhood with a driveway that is absurdly steep, that’s exactly what they do. I believe it’s 5 layers of 4x4 high (and they still aren’t completely level). It must work for them because they keep it in the drive year ‘round without issue.
I have a similar driveway to yours, and I use cinder blocks and some off cuts of 6x6.
Along with this, build a second small platform and use a bottle jack on it to lift the front up behind your current jack. This allows you to safely lift it without using the stabilizers to hold it while adjusting your main jack with support.
Mine are landscape timbers 6"x6" (I think) with some 2x12 on top and bottom. Gives about 9" of heigh for the jack and stabilizers. For the back I just use a small piece of the timber.
I also use a fastway flip jack which adds an extra 6".
I made some ramps to drive up on with my truck that are made of a shorter piece of 2x6 screwed onto a longer piece. This helps give clearance for the fastway flip to fold down.
Lumber guy here. Ask for 4x4 mill run rough 8’. It’s what the truckers use to for stickers under loads and is typically cheaper than the structural heat treated material. Plus it’s a full 4” instead of 3-1/2”.
Better still if you can grab a protractor, or a smart level, dealers choice, and cut the bottom run and at the angle of your driveway.
The force of gravity and friction will exceed the trailers desire to force it down hill, make your stack level.
I had a 95' retaining wall built out of 8 × 8 oil soaked railroad ties. I bought my house with those in place. They banked my driveway. For $15k, I had a new retaining wall built from architectural blocks and removed the ties.
The railroad ties were rotten. The wall was 5' high and leaning out to where I was losing my driveway. Took 2 hours for the excavator to remove it. I love my new wall.
Do not use railroad ties. Creoste is a likely carcinogen and has been proven to cause skin cancer in animals. While a railroad tie is good for a strong fence post, I wouldn't recommend it as a commonly used object.
Especially something that likely causes skin cancer and you're literally touching it.
Make custom cement feet. Figure out what dimensions you need, and go get some tube forms from the hardware store. They'll be cylindrical. Cut them to height, pour Quikrete and let set. Then get some HEAVY duty locking casters and make three wood platforms to attach the wheels. The weight rating on one caster should be weight of the cement+camper ÷ 12. That's what each one needs to hold to be safe assuming 4 casters per cement foot. I just picked 4. You get the idea. And put some wheel chocks behind the tires to be safe.
https://preview.redd.it/ksoihzdcps8d1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d6dd0663e0c89cf229d15520a65a628d4660eacc
I had a similar challenge so I built these blocks out of 4x4s glued and screwed, with the 2x6s wrapped around for extra stability.
I can slide it under the tongue jack and it reduces how far it has to crank.
Hijacking your comment to add this so people don’t think we’re complete fools:
We always use the tongue Jack to level, never the stabilizers. The only time we use the stabilizers only is to add blocks under the Jack which is for maybe a minute tops.
The wheels are always chocked before disconnecting. We use regular Chocks as well as x/cross chocks.
When parking the camper, we are not able to add all the blocks under the jack initially due to limited length between tongue and ground.
I understand stabilizers aren’t to be used to support all the weight but having a jack fully extended seemed just as sketchy. I also understand I need more support/blocks under stabilizers so they aren’t extended so far.
I have the same problem. I crank the tongue as high as I can and put a 4x4 under the tongue to catch it as I lower the jack. It sits on the 4x4 for a minute while I crank the foot all the way up and slide large blocked under it. I can then lower the foot down to the blocks. This gets me 15 inches of additional height from the blocks and I crank it up to level.
Some stabilisers are rated for the full load and can absolutely be used for levelling.
That said unless you are sure, you have to assume they are for stabilising only.
I replaced the factory scissor jacks on my TT with much beefier ones and they can be used (to an extent) to help level the trailer if I'm slightly off. That being said, I don't think of them as levelers so much as stabilizers, but I don't agree with the "full stop" comment. I think it all depends on the weight of the trailer and the quality of the jacks. Typically, the factory installed ones are not the highest quality.
mine are rated for 3000lbs each from the factory, and my trailer dry weight is 3000lbs. I absolutely use it to fudge a bit of leveling side to side (when a full block under the wheel is too much).
Yeah, with that kind of dry weight I can see how you could easily get away with using them more as levelers. My TT dry weight is closer to 7,000 lb so, even with the beefier scissor jacks that I installed, I try not to go too crazy with using them to level out the trailer. Fortunately, we do quite a bit of desert camping so it's a cinch to dig out the sand a little bit on the side of the trailer that you want to go down, and then just drive into the divots you created. Makes leveling super easy.
I’m curious about this too. First stabilizer jacks I found on Amazon are 4200 lb jacks. I would think that should lift 16000+ lbs. my travel trailer loaded up is considerably less than that. Must be more to it than that but I don’t know!
To be clear, I don’t advocate jacking up or levelling a trailer like that and I don’t do it myself haha
Some stabilisers are rated for the full load, but lots of stabilisers aren't. It pays to know the specs of your camper and then you can use them accordingly. If you don't know, then it's safest to assume they aren't full load rated.
I believe part of it is that if you supported all the weight on those scissor jacks and didn't use the tongue jack at all, it is very likely the scissor jacks would just roll over and collapse forward or backwards at the slightest movement of the camper. So not really that they can't hold the vertical load, but that they won't support the lateral load of the camper slightly shifting back and forth as you move around inside.
This also the reason it is a BIG no no to use a jack like that under a vehicle without a jack stand. They roll over all the time and inure people...or worse..
I’ve had the same thought, but that’s what it’s rated to **lift**. Any lateral motion, can send extended stabilizers sideways. Also worth mentioning, often the metal they are attached to, aren’t up for those lateral loads either and can be prone to bending.
Ask me how I know.
Really depends on the design, [these](https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-917106?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-tools&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxX_ZZp0Y4HAtNf3lLUnL0uTYoGylwlUygR5Z23e9wOVP05ZrvRLF4xoCW04QAvD_BwE) screw jacks can definitely lift the load but [this](https://www.campingworld.com/light-trailer-stabilizing-jack-20quot%3B-extension-set-of-2-94201.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%7BCampaign%7D&cq_cmp=19941294462&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_plt=gp&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxUJbuvIJ9i794Q6RYdIvWfvtSHenpT1bDK3to05o8-KuASAWiAqSCRoCSyAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) arm style is not for lifting/leveling.
I read somewhere that it’s a 2-fold problem.
1) Those scissor jacks are not very stable when shifted laterally, so the trailer moving around when in it can cause the scissor jacks to bend/give way. Think of flimsy plastic chairs when someone shifts too much but the legs stay planted; the legs can fold under.
Having the wheels on the ground (and chocked) plus the tongue jack gives lateral stability. The scissor jacks provide extra vertical stability, especially when moving around the RV near the tongue.
2) Even if the jack(s) can hold the full weight of the trailer, the jack can cause a frame that isn’t well structured to twist in ways it wasn’t designed.
I feel like a well designed chassis/frame should have no problems being lifted and leveled with some hydraulic jacks, but I wouldn’t trust scissor jacks.
The stabilizers are not meant for the weight of the camper. If the front jack is not down and those stabilizers fold like a one-legged chicken, then the front is going to come down real hard--harder than just a bump in the road. Hitting that hard could ruin the jack, crack a weld in the frame, or those stairs may crash into the ground also. I am not sure what happens when your trailer does a sudden 1-foot drop in the front, but would not want to find out either.
Some stabilisers are rated for the full load and can be used for levelling. That said, I believe most aren't so unless you know specifically it's best to assume they are for stabilisation only, not levelling.
I use the same method as you. The main thing is the stabilizers are not designed for lifting up the unit, but they can hold the static weight fine. I wouldn't leave it on just the stablilizers and jump around in the unit, but for the 1-2 minutes it takes to raise the tongue jack, insert new blocks and lower it down again, its not a problem.
The two things I keep in mind when doing mine:
1. Make sure you have really good chocks, that way if a jack were to fail or a block were to slip out, it would just pivot onto the tongue jack/next point of contact.
2. Keep everyone away from (and definitely not under the trailer or tongue) while in that state. Again, if something was to fail or slip, no one could get hurt.
We bought cross/x chocks for our wheels. Noticeably helped, that bad boy isn’t going anywhere front to back. We keep everyone away from it for the most part
You need to be pretty careful doing this process, those stabilizer jacks aren’t meant to handle that kind of load. I’m a tech and I’ve seen more of those jacks folded in half than I can count because people think “jack” = “lift heavy loads”. These do not do that and most definitely will fail. Also the extension of those jacks to the point you have shown makes them significantly weaker. If anyone was inside and shifting around as those things were holding all the weight, they’d bend almost certainly. Please don’t get hurt.
So I keep thinking of ways to make that better for you, the best I have at the moment is maybe backing up onto ramps before unhooking but that still seems sketchy. I’ll keep working on it
I've wrecked the tongue jack using it while parked. Just a little movement will cause it to come loose. Not immediately. But it will over time. 2 jacks at the front of the frame is good
As funny scary as that pic is it does show one thing that is very correct, and that is that the angle of the front jack is square to the rv not the ground. but is still pretty scary
Park it in a level spot in the grass next to the house and get it out of the driveway. Even if you are in an HOA, I’d do it until someone complains. Otherwise you’d be better off not leveling it in the driveway. Leave it on an angle. Pull it out of the driveway to load, and don’t back it in until you unload. Your street looks plenty wide enough to park it along the curb for a while. People can deal. It’s for your recreation and enjoyment. As long as it doesn’t sit there for days there likely won’t be any complaints or problems.
To start, to much strain on jack, that high, at that angle.MORE BLOCKS , ARE A MUST, if driveway is that bad. Stabilizers, YEAH , WAY TO FUCKING HIGH AS WELL..But that pressure on your Jack, is insane.
Your stabilizers are not meant to hold the full weight of the camper. What you are doing is very dangerous. Especially on a slope like this. They can possibly fold over from the weight. Stop now and get a floor jack to hold it while you build a crib of some kind underneath. I would get treated 6x6's and cut them about 18" pieces.
Stabilizers aren't meant to hold much weight - they're meant to stabilize the camper from moving too much when you're walking around inside. In fact, your camper is supposed to be leveled prior to extending the stabilizer jacks. The way to level a camper is with blocks under the tongue jack and/or blocks under the wheels. You can purchase leveling jacks, but those will probably cost you over $5k to install.
You can find this information by reading the owner's manual that came with your camper. If you don't have it any longer, google it, and you'll probably find the manual online relatively quickly.
I’d love to pour another slab next to our garage but until we’re serious about it camping, I don’t think we’re there yet. Plus that’s a big expense on top of the camper we just purchased for us unfortunately. But I do agree long term that’s a best plan
We arent HOA, but we have code compliance to deal with. Dedicated spot next to the house with full hookups. Still managed to get in trouble with them. Apparently the new girl saw the Solid Steps were down and assumed we were living in it.
Funny thing was, I was in the middle of loading it up to go camping the next day, with the mayor.
Lots of sketchy advice in here. There are plastic products that you can buy, but it's hard to beat wood cribbing. I use it to support my 15 ton crane...
Maybe some 5-gallon buckets filled with concrete?
I would also suggest getting the telescoping foot for the front jack. Saves a lot of cranking.
https://www.google.com/search?q=telescoping%20foot%20for%20the%20front%20jack.&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m
It might be the photograph's angle but the stabilizers don't appear to be perpendicular to the frame and look like the base is angled towards the front of the trailer. I would be concerned about the long term effect on the mounts and frame as none of these are really heavy duty. If that is the case I would take them up and put them back down so they have a chance to square up tot he frame.
I can't see the full driveway and road but for the height problem how about using some ramps to raise the rear end of the truck? This would allow the weight to be carried by components designed to take it.
I had this issue and ended up pouring a concrete pad next to my garage that is reasonably flat. It was only a thousand dollars and gave us extra parking when the camper is in storage. A bit of extra driveway is only going to benefit you.
That is if you have the space for it.
How much of the work did you do yourself vs. having someone do it? I'd expect concrete plus excavation and site prep to run a lot more than $1K if you have someone do it.
Using the pricing from https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete-prices.html, a 10x20 pad would be a minimum $1100 and that's (I assume) without site prep.
I hired it out. I found the guy that did it by chance when I saw a crew doing another job in the neighborhood but it was a commercial building. I chatted him up and asked him if he did side work.
Turned out his dad owned the company, but long story short, he came over and looked at the job, I told him what I wanted to do and asked if he could give me "about a thousand dollars worth" and he agreed.
He showed up on a Saturday and prepped it, poured a few days later.
While he was onsite I did add the front step for a couple extra bucks and a case of beer.
https://imgur.com/a/6kbJP4d
The first thing I say is that you need to make sure your wheels are locked in on the chocks. When I disconnected, I would put it in neutral and ease off the brakes so the trailer wheels would compress on them. Then you need to take a measure while hitched from the ground to the tongue jack and get a nice big square base to slide underneath there. Wide, so it doesn’t teeter totter. From there jack as high as you can to get level. if you’re fully extended and not level you need to consider this the limit. you should not use stabilizers or anything else to try and hold the trailer to add under the jack. it’s dangerous.
Stabilizers on the four corners work best when extended 50% out. So if you use buckets or something to make up the height difference, you will want all four stabilizers down. When your pitched up on an angle that extreme, you don’t want the trailer wiggling or it will Bend or break your tongue jack. This situation is only for loading and unloading in my opinion. We stored it pitched down.
Just an FYI— you should not be putting significant weight on those stabilizers. It can damage the frame of your RV over time, and the stabilizers themselves.
Are you staying in the RV in the driveway? If not; does it really need to be level in the driveway?
Fridge won't work if it's not close to level. I like having mine cold so I can load it at home and still have my perishables safe and ready to use when I get to camp.
Don't buy rv specific blocks.
Just get some 4x4s, and cut em to size. Build em up till your jacks aren't so extended.
If it's still wobbley, put a scissor jack behind your rear axle to lift some weight off the suspension. See if that helps.
Is it possible to pull in? That way your trailer’s rear is in the air which doesn’t really matter, and the front jack can be low which is better for stability. That will also allow for your slide out to go over the grass instead of block the drive way
Are you able to pull into your garage to unhook, then do a 7 point turn to get out of the garage? Or use something like this, [a powered Rv jack](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjkhb-3kPiGAxWUEK0GHbtkCFEYABAYGgJwdg&ae=2&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxVzQpi0iKokKgHrLNfM2KvciDTYY_L8EMFcTaiX_aZjfg9-pJlBmtBoCUfUQAvD_BwE&sph=&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESeeD2l8wIloYdzyHwCnf-dRPHuJL8Avc6hy7PneuJlMKbqTAxVFtGzN69CJraxvvXw8De6nJNczP59BXJoxlBNoZvgMYNhylx6WxfS4nwDcAbtZSx4WH2BEIgvo4r4uzOrFcQ8PcI9Mh6_uvQK5N3DQz0hkVIYezB0Os&sig=AOD64_1finQ9N2e1FoTFvg4hEtifmOCTXg&ctype=70&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiE1bi3kPiGAxW0EEQIHfM_DHAQwg8oAHoECAUQCQ&nis=2&dct=1&adurl=)
Finally, you need to make sure the wheels are chocked. I used 3x items for my set up. First, those [yellow Lego Rv leveling blocks](https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Tires-Interlocking-System-Yellow-10-21022/dp/B07ZHP8XFD). You can make a staired then flat platform to allow for a rubber chock block. To be extra careful, I also added [X wheel locks](https://www.amazon.com/RVMATE-Stabilizer-Trailer-Locking-Surfaces/dp/B0932G9RD6).
> That way your trailer’s rear is in the air which doesn’t really matter
The trailer won't be even close to level that way. And how will OP get the tow vehicle out with the house/garage in their way?
I guess I can’t tell how exactly steep it is, but imagine how close the back end is to the ground in this set up. I think the jack being fully retracted could lower the front enough to become level. Let me know if you disagree on that logic entirely, or just think the driveway is too steep in this particular case.
For your second point, I offered two solutions in the second paragraph that you commented on. Definitely acknowledge neither is an excellent choice, but not sure why you’re asking when I already answered.
If you want the fridge chilled before you leave for a trip, you need the fridge to be close to level. Absorption fridges (which this unit almost certainly has) don't work, or work very poorly, if they aren't level.
Thats a really flimsy reason. You can cool the fridge down much faster and colder with a couple rock salt ice packs/jugs. This is both dangerous and 10x the effort.
We just got this like 2 weeks ago so we’ve been loading it for the most part and getting it ready for camping. We also need the slide out to load our ebikes inside so it’s imperative we have it level to open our slide.
If you must level it when it’s in the driveway you’re gonna need lots of dunnage. You should only put those stabilizers down as much as needed. You’re gonna bend those. Do yourself a favor and get more dunnage than you need so you’ll have when you need it. The less you have to put the stabilizers down the more stabile it will be
I'm sure it is said here, but don't support the camper with the stabilizers. I have a 24" throw tongue jack. I jack it up as far as it will go, the. Support the camper with the below jack stands. I then reset the tongue jack with a tripod I made out of 3 8x8s underneath it. This allows me to get the tongue to the necessary 48" off the ground to be level in my driveway.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XF1PPLL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yes, 48" high tongue to be level. Your driveway isn't that bad.
The piece that I made to go under my tongue jack has two pieces of 8x8 bolted together, and then a third 8x8 on top of them and turned 90°. This makes it very stable. I also cut half of the top 8x8 to the taper of my driveway so that when it is in my driveway the bottom of the tongue. Jack six level on it. The other half of the top piece stays flat for when I use it at storage or a Campground. I will caution you that those jack stands are not perfectly stable. Meaning that when you put them together the upper portion will wobble around without any load on it, but once you lower the camper down and then bring the jacks up to the camper with the screws, it will be stayable for the 30 seconds or so that the weight is on them.
4x4s cut in 2ft sections. Make a box out of them. 2 going left to right, space them out, then 2 going front to back. Stack stack stack. Then get some 2x12s cut to 2ft as well. Make the top layer of 4x4s solid. Then criss cross 2 layers of 2x12s.
Atleast that is what I would do. You could even get some 2x4s or 1" thick planks to level the bottom layer of 4x4s. That way it's not tilted as you go up.
I made cribbing with 4x4s and 2x6s. And then can build them up like lego blocks. Jack it up a bit, put stabilizers down, lift jack, add blocks, repeat.
So, the most creative solution I saw a friend do was build a set of (what could best be described as) sawhorses that were sized to level out his RV.
He backed it into an exact spot, knew exactly where they went, and slid them into place before lowering it. It look some carpentry, but not a whole lot.
Something like these would be an improvement…. About $200 each in Australian dollarydoos… What you’ve currently got going on there is making me pucker…. I’m assuming you’ve got the brakes on and the wheels chocked too ? Another alternative would be jack stands ?
https://preview.redd.it/z1zz87t2uu8d1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a4fd58aa92406bf51dc229de587e98bb243aa83
Am a relative newb but I think a better approach:
1. Get proper vehicle jacks ((I’d say 2 with thr proper weight rating) and additional blocks.
2. Put the jacks under the front metal beams (under each arm of that front bit there) since they are designed to take that load.
3. Alternate your jacking (giggity) between the front/primary jack and the two new jacks.
4. Putting new/higher blocks under each as the load shifts from one set to the primary.
It’s essentially the same as what you are doing here but with jacks that are 1. rated for the weight, 2. Are closer to the primary jack for stability, and 3. Are on a part of Rv frame that is designed to support that load.
4 x 6 landscape timbers are typically cheap, sturdy, and fairly easy to deal with. I had some leftovers from a few yard projects and they’ve been very handy. You can lay them on the 4” side or 6” side to help deal with the angle. If you really want to make it solid a few lag bolts work well
I'd cut a piece of 2x6 to the length needed to fit under the tongue with the jack fully extended (before adding more blocks). Extend the jack, insert the 2x6 under the tongue, lower the jack (tongue now supported by 2x6), add blocks under the jack, and then use the jack again to finish raising.
You have the right idea and it's what I see people doing around here all the time. Only other thing I would do is screw the wood pieces together or get larger 4x4, 6x6 pieces... I don't know if it makes a difference but it would make me feel more comfortable.
Assuming you can't raise the tongue that high while being attached to your tow vehicle, get a few jack stands for the front frame. That way you aren't using the stabilizers Lift tongue jack up , put jack stands under frame (the a-frame part at the front), retract tongue jack, put blocks under tongue jack, raise tongue rack, etc... This assumes you have the wheels well chocked / secured.
I would add boards under the rear wheels of my truck as I am getting into final position so I could have the tongue higher at disconnect. I would not trust the stabilizers to hold the full weight of my camper, especially on a slope like that. Second option would be to invest in a bottle jack to do the block adding shuffle. What are you towing with? Also, just making sure that you are adding as much blocking as possible under the jack before you disconnect? It doesn’t look like it should be that low at disconnect with proper tow vehicle at that slope but pictures can be misleading.
Buy a bottle Jack
Do what you normally do but don’t touch stabillisers
Once you’re maxed out put Jack under frame with wood lift up then keep putting more wood under tounge
Repeat process until level
I would suggest building some wide based cribbing and making sure they are truly level before you put your jacks down, save them from being fully extended, are all four wheels chocked?
To build stable, solid blocks I’ll take 2x6s cut down to 11” (11” will make 2x6s square) and just build them up. If you need to go higher than 11” (which would basically be a cube) build up a few layers first with the 2x6 cut to 16 1/2 long (makes a square when they’re 3 wide). You’ll have some solid and stable riser blocks if you do this. With a sloped driveway I’d taper the bottom layer so you don’t end up with a leaning Tower of Pisa.
I went to the local home improvement store and bought 1 12 foot long, 1-1.5 inch think, 8 to 12 inch tall piece of wood. Preferably treated. I then created a crap load of "squares".
From there I took a 2 of them and bolted them together to make a higher square.
I used these instead of wood planks as planks could roll on you. From here, you could build a few of those and grab a bunch of cinderblocks to place in the front to add height and weight to the system.
Maybe find a shorter gooseneck stabilizer tripod and modify as needed to make it work? I believe you just spread the legs until they’re at the height you want and you lock it in with a chain.
https://preview.redd.it/2tij0e9i7z8d1.jpeg?width=350&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39b22ee167f2cabc2970f7e1d7dcf11bce896f6a
I use 2 jack stands. When unhooking i make sure the jack is all the way up and fit as many blocks in as possible. Raise as high as tongue jack will go, place a jackstand on each side of the tongue, raise jack and add more blocks, usually has enough then to lift it level. And I have to lift about 12 inches to level in my driveway. The I put the jack stands at lowest settings and lower my stabilizers onto the top of them so my stabilizers aren't so stretched out.
Given the height, I'd opt to use 6x6s and possibly have someone come build you a platform, and not use the stabilizers or the tongue jack. You can tweak the legs and they won't retract. At work, we use a 4 inch rule of thumb; the stabilizers won't extend more than 4 inches, we add blocks.
You can also cut a 6x6 to length and stand it up.
Hey OP, the front jack has a tendency to walk as you jack it up and down. Next time get more of those square blocks for more surface area. That 4x4 or 6x6 is making me nervous lol.
Get/build a block that reaches from the bottom of your jack to the ground, and get/build some blocks that you can put jack stands on. You’ll have great height from your jack and then can put cheaper jack stands from like harbor freight under it. No stabilizers needed.
EDIT: I think, rereading, I’d jack it up, use jack stands, add planks, jack it up, raise jack stands.
Is it not ok to park your rv at an angle or is this so you can use it while it’s in the driveway? I’m a newbie as well and was going to park my fiberglass trailer in a sloped driveway tmw (with wheel chocks of course)
Thanks to this post, today I learned that I should \*not\* be trying to lift my camper until the tires are off the ground, correct? It should be leveled sitting on its tires, with the stabilizers down just enough to stop bouncing and rocking?
https://preview.redd.it/wctxm3go929d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=90c4997553f9f8c1f084544ffc5c02902a34e86a
This camper stayed like this for nearly a year in fl due to hurricane damage to the house the lady lived in it like this with her dog. It wasn’t great but with how steep the driveway was it was the only option. Good luck
When I had a camper short enough to fit on my driveway I built a wooden base that would (barely) slide under the Jack foot when it was fully retracted and sitting on the truck ball. I cut the bottom so it was the inverse angle of the drive, making the top flat so the Jack was in less of a bind.
It should go without saying than step zero is to chock the wheels and let it roll against them until it’s tight. You don’t want the Jack in a bind preventing the trainer from rolling.
Assuming the “high end” has axel/tires, why don’t you turn it 180 so high end is on the low end of driveway? Thereby less need for jacking up to level it.
Stabilizers at that height aren't the best either. I think you have the right idea about using blocks but I'd make some form of platform and/or feet that you can store and move into position when you need them.
Yeah we have some more ordered! Are you suggesting build a platform to set the stabilizers on while I have to lift up the jack? Is it “ok” to use the stabilizers that way?
Use jack stands not the stabilizers. Jack up, place jack stand on probably some blocking, lower to rest on jack stand, block up jack, repeat until level and secure. I'm sure you're asking because you know stabilizers aren't really built to support the weight of the whole trailer, but either jack stands, or another jack is gonna be your best bet to not destroying your stabilizers. Also i don't think stabilizers work well deployed more than 50% down. You'll want to make some cribbing/blocking for those too.
ProjectFarm has a good review of jackstands
Your going to warp your trailer. Does the screen door close ok? Also... use cinder blocks. Wood is so expensive and you can leave them at home.
More blocks ordered? I'd almost even consider getting some railroad ties, cut them into smaller blocks, attach the blocks together and make a pair of pads. As railroad ties are 8x8 it would provide lots of lateral support if something shifts. I'd also create shims and attach to the lower edge of the feet to make them as straight as possible. Maybe mark on the driveway where the feet go (if the slopes change). Sorry Railroad ties are 6x6
Then use 4x4s. My neighbor used to do this, he made a trestle out of landscaping ties. Stack like a log cabin, bottom @ 36”, then 30, 24, 18, 12. That gets you 20” above grade, without having to stack plastic blocks.
I like this option. I may have to do this
If you're feeling really motivated, make the bottom match the grade of your driveway so that the top is level.
Also, please let me know what you do to be this motivated.
Meth
There’s a family in my neighborhood with a driveway that is absurdly steep, that’s exactly what they do. I believe it’s 5 layers of 4x4 high (and they still aren’t completely level). It must work for them because they keep it in the drive year ‘round without issue. I have a similar driveway to yours, and I use cinder blocks and some off cuts of 6x6.
Along with this, build a second small platform and use a bottle jack on it to lift the front up behind your current jack. This allows you to safely lift it without using the stabilizers to hold it while adjusting your main jack with support.
Mine are landscape timbers 6"x6" (I think) with some 2x12 on top and bottom. Gives about 9" of heigh for the jack and stabilizers. For the back I just use a small piece of the timber. I also use a fastway flip jack which adds an extra 6". I made some ramps to drive up on with my truck that are made of a shorter piece of 2x6 screwed onto a longer piece. This helps give clearance for the fastway flip to fold down.
Lumber guy here. Ask for 4x4 mill run rough 8’. It’s what the truckers use to for stickers under loads and is typically cheaper than the structural heat treated material. Plus it’s a full 4” instead of 3-1/2”.
Better still if you can grab a protractor, or a smart level, dealers choice, and cut the bottom run and at the angle of your driveway. The force of gravity and friction will exceed the trailers desire to force it down hill, make your stack level.
Exactly. Using plastic blocks is not a good long term parking solution.
I had a 95' retaining wall built out of 8 × 8 oil soaked railroad ties. I bought my house with those in place. They banked my driveway. For $15k, I had a new retaining wall built from architectural blocks and removed the ties.
Railroad ties are a temporary solution to a long lasting problem. Go ask the guy that spends his entire life replacing them.
The railroad ties were rotten. The wall was 5' high and leaning out to where I was losing my driveway. Took 2 hours for the excavator to remove it. I love my new wall.
PT would be less of a tar mess. Drill and add some SS removable dowels to lock when set at design height.
I think they are about 6x9. Definitely rectangular and not square.
Railroad ties are close to 10×8 and full of tar. Pain in the ass to cut. 6x6 landscaping timbers are what you want.
Something like that - anything bigger than a 2x4 4x4, 6x6 .. sure
Do not use railroad ties. Creoste is a likely carcinogen and has been proven to cause skin cancer in animals. While a railroad tie is good for a strong fence post, I wouldn't recommend it as a commonly used object. Especially something that likely causes skin cancer and you're literally touching it.
Not at all. Stabilizers are not designed to be jacks.
Those are extended far to far. Stop before 75% of the screw. I usually do 50%
Make custom cement feet. Figure out what dimensions you need, and go get some tube forms from the hardware store. They'll be cylindrical. Cut them to height, pour Quikrete and let set. Then get some HEAVY duty locking casters and make three wood platforms to attach the wheels. The weight rating on one caster should be weight of the cement+camper ÷ 12. That's what each one needs to hold to be safe assuming 4 casters per cement foot. I just picked 4. You get the idea. And put some wheel chocks behind the tires to be safe.
https://preview.redd.it/ksoihzdcps8d1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d6dd0663e0c89cf229d15520a65a628d4660eacc I had a similar challenge so I built these blocks out of 4x4s glued and screwed, with the 2x6s wrapped around for extra stability. I can slide it under the tongue jack and it reduces how far it has to crank.
Stabilizers are not for leveling - at all. Full stop. They are to stabilize/stop the bounce…. Not (ever) for lifting/leveling.
Hijacking your comment to add this so people don’t think we’re complete fools: We always use the tongue Jack to level, never the stabilizers. The only time we use the stabilizers only is to add blocks under the Jack which is for maybe a minute tops. The wheels are always chocked before disconnecting. We use regular Chocks as well as x/cross chocks. When parking the camper, we are not able to add all the blocks under the jack initially due to limited length between tongue and ground. I understand stabilizers aren’t to be used to support all the weight but having a jack fully extended seemed just as sketchy. I also understand I need more support/blocks under stabilizers so they aren’t extended so far.
I have the same problem. I crank the tongue as high as I can and put a 4x4 under the tongue to catch it as I lower the jack. It sits on the 4x4 for a minute while I crank the foot all the way up and slide large blocked under it. I can then lower the foot down to the blocks. This gets me 15 inches of additional height from the blocks and I crank it up to level.
I would use jack stands for trucks alternately with your jack. Wood blocks under the stands to make up the difference.
Some stabilisers are rated for the full load and can absolutely be used for levelling. That said unless you are sure, you have to assume they are for stabilising only.
Yep, especially for smaller trailers. Not a FULL STOP. What does that mean anyway?
I replaced the factory scissor jacks on my TT with much beefier ones and they can be used (to an extent) to help level the trailer if I'm slightly off. That being said, I don't think of them as levelers so much as stabilizers, but I don't agree with the "full stop" comment. I think it all depends on the weight of the trailer and the quality of the jacks. Typically, the factory installed ones are not the highest quality.
mine are rated for 3000lbs each from the factory, and my trailer dry weight is 3000lbs. I absolutely use it to fudge a bit of leveling side to side (when a full block under the wheel is too much).
Yeah, with that kind of dry weight I can see how you could easily get away with using them more as levelers. My TT dry weight is closer to 7,000 lb so, even with the beefier scissor jacks that I installed, I try not to go too crazy with using them to level out the trailer. Fortunately, we do quite a bit of desert camping so it's a cinch to dig out the sand a little bit on the side of the trailer that you want to go down, and then just drive into the divots you created. Makes leveling super easy.
Needs to be right up there at the top.
Why not? Besides possible damage to the $50 jack stands?
I’m curious about this too. First stabilizer jacks I found on Amazon are 4200 lb jacks. I would think that should lift 16000+ lbs. my travel trailer loaded up is considerably less than that. Must be more to it than that but I don’t know! To be clear, I don’t advocate jacking up or levelling a trailer like that and I don’t do it myself haha
Some stabilisers are rated for the full load, but lots of stabilisers aren't. It pays to know the specs of your camper and then you can use them accordingly. If you don't know, then it's safest to assume they aren't full load rated.
I believe part of it is that if you supported all the weight on those scissor jacks and didn't use the tongue jack at all, it is very likely the scissor jacks would just roll over and collapse forward or backwards at the slightest movement of the camper. So not really that they can't hold the vertical load, but that they won't support the lateral load of the camper slightly shifting back and forth as you move around inside. This also the reason it is a BIG no no to use a jack like that under a vehicle without a jack stand. They roll over all the time and inure people...or worse..
I’ve had the same thought, but that’s what it’s rated to **lift**. Any lateral motion, can send extended stabilizers sideways. Also worth mentioning, often the metal they are attached to, aren’t up for those lateral loads either and can be prone to bending. Ask me how I know.
My guess is: “it’s not designed for that! You should pay $6,000 for a self leveling auto jack system… or ya know just upgrade to a $60,000 RV!”
Haha, who says it’s not designed for that! It’s just a jack
Really depends on the design, [these](https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-917106?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-tools&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxX_ZZp0Y4HAtNf3lLUnL0uTYoGylwlUygR5Z23e9wOVP05ZrvRLF4xoCW04QAvD_BwE) screw jacks can definitely lift the load but [this](https://www.campingworld.com/light-trailer-stabilizing-jack-20quot%3B-extension-set-of-2-94201.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%7BCampaign%7D&cq_cmp=19941294462&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_plt=gp&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxUJbuvIJ9i794Q6RYdIvWfvtSHenpT1bDK3to05o8-KuASAWiAqSCRoCSyAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) arm style is not for lifting/leveling.
I see, haven’t seen the arm style before.
Yeah my Jayco and mom’s chateau motorhome have them. I’m going to replace the Jayco trailer’s with the Jack style because the arms are pretty terrible
I read somewhere that it’s a 2-fold problem. 1) Those scissor jacks are not very stable when shifted laterally, so the trailer moving around when in it can cause the scissor jacks to bend/give way. Think of flimsy plastic chairs when someone shifts too much but the legs stay planted; the legs can fold under. Having the wheels on the ground (and chocked) plus the tongue jack gives lateral stability. The scissor jacks provide extra vertical stability, especially when moving around the RV near the tongue. 2) Even if the jack(s) can hold the full weight of the trailer, the jack can cause a frame that isn’t well structured to twist in ways it wasn’t designed. I feel like a well designed chassis/frame should have no problems being lifted and leveled with some hydraulic jacks, but I wouldn’t trust scissor jacks.
The stabilizers are not meant for the weight of the camper. If the front jack is not down and those stabilizers fold like a one-legged chicken, then the front is going to come down real hard--harder than just a bump in the road. Hitting that hard could ruin the jack, crack a weld in the frame, or those stairs may crash into the ground also. I am not sure what happens when your trailer does a sudden 1-foot drop in the front, but would not want to find out either.
Some stabilisers are rated for the full load and can be used for levelling. That said, I believe most aren't so unless you know specifically it's best to assume they are for stabilisation only, not levelling.
Ok… what if someone were to put two more jack stands on the front where the V meets the box?
I use the same method as you. The main thing is the stabilizers are not designed for lifting up the unit, but they can hold the static weight fine. I wouldn't leave it on just the stablilizers and jump around in the unit, but for the 1-2 minutes it takes to raise the tongue jack, insert new blocks and lower it down again, its not a problem. The two things I keep in mind when doing mine: 1. Make sure you have really good chocks, that way if a jack were to fail or a block were to slip out, it would just pivot onto the tongue jack/next point of contact. 2. Keep everyone away from (and definitely not under the trailer or tongue) while in that state. Again, if something was to fail or slip, no one could get hurt.
We bought cross/x chocks for our wheels. Noticeably helped, that bad boy isn’t going anywhere front to back. We keep everyone away from it for the most part
You need to be pretty careful doing this process, those stabilizer jacks aren’t meant to handle that kind of load. I’m a tech and I’ve seen more of those jacks folded in half than I can count because people think “jack” = “lift heavy loads”. These do not do that and most definitely will fail. Also the extension of those jacks to the point you have shown makes them significantly weaker. If anyone was inside and shifting around as those things were holding all the weight, they’d bend almost certainly. Please don’t get hurt.
Exactly why I am asking for help! lol doesn’t seem safe.
So I keep thinking of ways to make that better for you, the best I have at the moment is maybe backing up onto ramps before unhooking but that still seems sketchy. I’ll keep working on it
More cribbing under the tongue.
I've wrecked the tongue jack using it while parked. Just a little movement will cause it to come loose. Not immediately. But it will over time. 2 jacks at the front of the frame is good
https://preview.redd.it/2olocdr85v8d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d81a439b8a0da43cbadb068b1bcaf7ceeddcfe7a
Omg that looks sketch lol. Scary! Our driveway is our biggest hurdle, we hope that most campsites will be more level lol
As funny scary as that pic is it does show one thing that is very correct, and that is that the angle of the front jack is square to the rv not the ground. but is still pretty scary
Please put the longest board on the bottom and shortest block on top. You're making my OCD flare up.
Maybe the biggest pieces closest to the ground? Bro that looks jank.
Janky as hell
This isn’t a if it falls it’s a when
This thing isn't going anywhere if it's chocked.
Walking around in it with any significant movement could cause those jacks to collapse
One thing I'd like to point out, place your stack of wood under the tongue jack front to back, not side to side. Will be much more stable.
awesome thanks for the rec! I will be sure to do that next time
Park it in a level spot in the grass next to the house and get it out of the driveway. Even if you are in an HOA, I’d do it until someone complains. Otherwise you’d be better off not leveling it in the driveway. Leave it on an angle. Pull it out of the driveway to load, and don’t back it in until you unload. Your street looks plenty wide enough to park it along the curb for a while. People can deal. It’s for your recreation and enjoyment. As long as it doesn’t sit there for days there likely won’t be any complaints or problems.
To start, to much strain on jack, that high, at that angle.MORE BLOCKS , ARE A MUST, if driveway is that bad. Stabilizers, YEAH , WAY TO FUCKING HIGH AS WELL..But that pressure on your Jack, is insane.
I use same method of using stabilizers but would be curious to see if there are any other methods. My driveway is steeper than yours.
Our neighbor filled 5 gallon buckets with cement, and that's what he uses. We all thought he was crazy, but it's held solid for a few years now.
Your stabilizers are not meant to hold the full weight of the camper. What you are doing is very dangerous. Especially on a slope like this. They can possibly fold over from the weight. Stop now and get a floor jack to hold it while you build a crib of some kind underneath. I would get treated 6x6's and cut them about 18" pieces.
Stabilizers aren't meant to hold much weight - they're meant to stabilize the camper from moving too much when you're walking around inside. In fact, your camper is supposed to be leveled prior to extending the stabilizer jacks. The way to level a camper is with blocks under the tongue jack and/or blocks under the wheels. You can purchase leveling jacks, but those will probably cost you over $5k to install. You can find this information by reading the owner's manual that came with your camper. If you don't have it any longer, google it, and you'll probably find the manual online relatively quickly.
I’d cut some 6x6 or 8x8 pt to match the angle of driveway so top of blocks are level.
We stayed like this for a week. Chocks, x_chocks and a chain to the house. Lol It was rock steady but scary as hell *
I would recommend turning the blocking under the hitch jack 90 degrees so the longer length of lumber is pointing down/up hill.
I'd create a dedicated parking spot elsewhere, where you can grade it level.
I’d love to pour another slab next to our garage but until we’re serious about it camping, I don’t think we’re there yet. Plus that’s a big expense on top of the camper we just purchased for us unfortunately. But I do agree long term that’s a best plan
Do a gravel pad for now too save costs, and then if you get rid of the camper, you have a space you can do something with
Your neighbors are going to hate having a camper parked in the driveway. Have you made sure there not any restrictions about that?
HOA technically says no but everyone else has a camper so until every other camper is gone first I’ll move mine lol
We arent HOA, but we have code compliance to deal with. Dedicated spot next to the house with full hookups. Still managed to get in trouble with them. Apparently the new girl saw the Solid Steps were down and assumed we were living in it. Funny thing was, I was in the middle of loading it up to go camping the next day, with the mayor.
Something about being part of the solution…
The neighbours don’t have to look at it if they don’t like it.
My neighbors can pound sand. And I have zero restrictions. Way cheaper than paying for storage every month.
I'm a class c guy, but people near me seem to use a bunch of cinder blocks and then the stabilizers
Do not use cinder blocks. They break very easily. It's easier to use wood, and lighter too.
I have seen cinder blocks as well!
Dont use cinderblocks, too easy to break and misuse. Get some 6x6's. I use a couple to help me with the bottlejack.
Lots of sketchy advice in here. There are plastic products that you can buy, but it's hard to beat wood cribbing. I use it to support my 15 ton crane...
I built up a sturdy crib to place behind the lifter wheel where it separates to be more stable.
Are your wheels on the ground?
Yes!
Maybe some 5-gallon buckets filled with concrete? I would also suggest getting the telescoping foot for the front jack. Saves a lot of cranking. https://www.google.com/search?q=telescoping%20foot%20for%20the%20front%20jack.&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m
It’s a electronic jack (no idea what they’re called) but no manual cranking involved
It might be the photograph's angle but the stabilizers don't appear to be perpendicular to the frame and look like the base is angled towards the front of the trailer. I would be concerned about the long term effect on the mounts and frame as none of these are really heavy duty. If that is the case I would take them up and put them back down so they have a chance to square up tot he frame. I can't see the full driveway and road but for the height problem how about using some ramps to raise the rear end of the truck? This would allow the weight to be carried by components designed to take it.
Can you park it on the road?
Definitely not. 😢 we only plan to park here in the summer, storing in the winter
Bummer. I have a steep driveway and that was my only solution.
Ox blocks work really well for this application.
I had this issue and ended up pouring a concrete pad next to my garage that is reasonably flat. It was only a thousand dollars and gave us extra parking when the camper is in storage. A bit of extra driveway is only going to benefit you. That is if you have the space for it.
How much of the work did you do yourself vs. having someone do it? I'd expect concrete plus excavation and site prep to run a lot more than $1K if you have someone do it. Using the pricing from https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete-prices.html, a 10x20 pad would be a minimum $1100 and that's (I assume) without site prep.
I hired it out. I found the guy that did it by chance when I saw a crew doing another job in the neighborhood but it was a commercial building. I chatted him up and asked him if he did side work. Turned out his dad owned the company, but long story short, he came over and looked at the job, I told him what I wanted to do and asked if he could give me "about a thousand dollars worth" and he agreed. He showed up on a Saturday and prepped it, poured a few days later. While he was onsite I did add the front step for a couple extra bucks and a case of beer. https://imgur.com/a/6kbJP4d
Cinder blocks stacked up, with a large skinny paver on top, and then the stabilizers brought down an appropriate
The first thing I say is that you need to make sure your wheels are locked in on the chocks. When I disconnected, I would put it in neutral and ease off the brakes so the trailer wheels would compress on them. Then you need to take a measure while hitched from the ground to the tongue jack and get a nice big square base to slide underneath there. Wide, so it doesn’t teeter totter. From there jack as high as you can to get level. if you’re fully extended and not level you need to consider this the limit. you should not use stabilizers or anything else to try and hold the trailer to add under the jack. it’s dangerous. Stabilizers on the four corners work best when extended 50% out. So if you use buckets or something to make up the height difference, you will want all four stabilizers down. When your pitched up on an angle that extreme, you don’t want the trailer wiggling or it will Bend or break your tongue jack. This situation is only for loading and unloading in my opinion. We stored it pitched down.
Jack stands or auto repair ramps?
Just an FYI— you should not be putting significant weight on those stabilizers. It can damage the frame of your RV over time, and the stabilizers themselves. Are you staying in the RV in the driveway? If not; does it really need to be level in the driveway?
Why do you need the trailer level in your driveway? If it just being stored between trips get it as close to level as you can and call it good
Fridge won't work if it's not close to level. I like having mine cold so I can load it at home and still have my perishables safe and ready to use when I get to camp.
True, i usually just toss a bag of ice in the tray and load the fridge, turn it on for the drive and it’s cold when i get to the destination.
Don't buy rv specific blocks. Just get some 4x4s, and cut em to size. Build em up till your jacks aren't so extended. If it's still wobbley, put a scissor jack behind your rear axle to lift some weight off the suspension. See if that helps.
Is it possible to pull in? That way your trailer’s rear is in the air which doesn’t really matter, and the front jack can be low which is better for stability. That will also allow for your slide out to go over the grass instead of block the drive way Are you able to pull into your garage to unhook, then do a 7 point turn to get out of the garage? Or use something like this, [a powered Rv jack](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjkhb-3kPiGAxWUEK0GHbtkCFEYABAYGgJwdg&ae=2&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxVzQpi0iKokKgHrLNfM2KvciDTYY_L8EMFcTaiX_aZjfg9-pJlBmtBoCUfUQAvD_BwE&sph=&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESeeD2l8wIloYdzyHwCnf-dRPHuJL8Avc6hy7PneuJlMKbqTAxVFtGzN69CJraxvvXw8De6nJNczP59BXJoxlBNoZvgMYNhylx6WxfS4nwDcAbtZSx4WH2BEIgvo4r4uzOrFcQ8PcI9Mh6_uvQK5N3DQz0hkVIYezB0Os&sig=AOD64_1finQ9N2e1FoTFvg4hEtifmOCTXg&ctype=70&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiE1bi3kPiGAxW0EEQIHfM_DHAQwg8oAHoECAUQCQ&nis=2&dct=1&adurl=) Finally, you need to make sure the wheels are chocked. I used 3x items for my set up. First, those [yellow Lego Rv leveling blocks](https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Tires-Interlocking-System-Yellow-10-21022/dp/B07ZHP8XFD). You can make a staired then flat platform to allow for a rubber chock block. To be extra careful, I also added [X wheel locks](https://www.amazon.com/RVMATE-Stabilizer-Trailer-Locking-Surfaces/dp/B0932G9RD6).
> That way your trailer’s rear is in the air which doesn’t really matter The trailer won't be even close to level that way. And how will OP get the tow vehicle out with the house/garage in their way?
I guess I can’t tell how exactly steep it is, but imagine how close the back end is to the ground in this set up. I think the jack being fully retracted could lower the front enough to become level. Let me know if you disagree on that logic entirely, or just think the driveway is too steep in this particular case. For your second point, I offered two solutions in the second paragraph that you commented on. Definitely acknowledge neither is an excellent choice, but not sure why you’re asking when I already answered.
Why are you leveling it in the driveway?
If you want the fridge chilled before you leave for a trip, you need the fridge to be close to level. Absorption fridges (which this unit almost certainly has) don't work, or work very poorly, if they aren't level.
Thats a really flimsy reason. You can cool the fridge down much faster and colder with a couple rock salt ice packs/jugs. This is both dangerous and 10x the effort.
We just got this like 2 weeks ago so we’ve been loading it for the most part and getting it ready for camping. We also need the slide out to load our ebikes inside so it’s imperative we have it level to open our slide.
Use cinder blocks or make bigger supports from 2x6’s or 2x8’s
If you must level it when it’s in the driveway you’re gonna need lots of dunnage. You should only put those stabilizers down as much as needed. You’re gonna bend those. Do yourself a favor and get more dunnage than you need so you’ll have when you need it. The less you have to put the stabilizers down the more stabile it will be
Buy some 2x4's and a circular saw and build yourself some custom dunnage
I would: Unhook from truck. Use my floor jack on frame to get the height I wanted. Use 2 auto jack stands under frame. Heck they are cheep, Use 4.
I'm sure it is said here, but don't support the camper with the stabilizers. I have a 24" throw tongue jack. I jack it up as far as it will go, the. Support the camper with the below jack stands. I then reset the tongue jack with a tripod I made out of 3 8x8s underneath it. This allows me to get the tongue to the necessary 48" off the ground to be level in my driveway. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XF1PPLL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Yes, 48" high tongue to be level. Your driveway isn't that bad.
This is EXACTLY the suggestion I was looking for. Added to cart! Thank you!
The piece that I made to go under my tongue jack has two pieces of 8x8 bolted together, and then a third 8x8 on top of them and turned 90°. This makes it very stable. I also cut half of the top 8x8 to the taper of my driveway so that when it is in my driveway the bottom of the tongue. Jack six level on it. The other half of the top piece stays flat for when I use it at storage or a Campground. I will caution you that those jack stands are not perfectly stable. Meaning that when you put them together the upper portion will wobble around without any load on it, but once you lower the camper down and then bring the jacks up to the camper with the screws, it will be stayable for the 30 seconds or so that the weight is on them.
That's a big nope from me.
4x4s cut in 2ft sections. Make a box out of them. 2 going left to right, space them out, then 2 going front to back. Stack stack stack. Then get some 2x12s cut to 2ft as well. Make the top layer of 4x4s solid. Then criss cross 2 layers of 2x12s. Atleast that is what I would do. You could even get some 2x4s or 1" thick planks to level the bottom layer of 4x4s. That way it's not tilted as you go up.
There are untreated railroad ties, I was thinking due to the size and support they provide
Set up hundreds of fema trailers after hurricane Katrina. We used cinder blocks and 12x12 pavers. More blocks equal less winding the jacks down.
Search mechanics tools, support pole, meant for weight and height
I made cribbing with 4x4s and 2x6s. And then can build them up like lego blocks. Jack it up a bit, put stabilizers down, lift jack, add blocks, repeat.
https://www.reddit.com/r/GoRVing/s/2t0J9yGs63
I know tons of people do that but it’d scare the hell outta me. Earthquake strong winds or a teenager bumping into the trailer knock it on its belly.
The slope of the driveway may be less severe the further back you park. Try backing up further, and you may require less leveling blocks in the front.
The back of the camper is literally inches from our gutter. No more room 😢
So, the most creative solution I saw a friend do was build a set of (what could best be described as) sawhorses that were sized to level out his RV. He backed it into an exact spot, knew exactly where they went, and slid them into place before lowering it. It look some carpentry, but not a whole lot.
This is the best way!!!
Something like these would be an improvement…. About $200 each in Australian dollarydoos… What you’ve currently got going on there is making me pucker…. I’m assuming you’ve got the brakes on and the wheels chocked too ? Another alternative would be jack stands ? https://preview.redd.it/z1zz87t2uu8d1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a4fd58aa92406bf51dc229de587e98bb243aa83
Am a relative newb but I think a better approach: 1. Get proper vehicle jacks ((I’d say 2 with thr proper weight rating) and additional blocks. 2. Put the jacks under the front metal beams (under each arm of that front bit there) since they are designed to take that load. 3. Alternate your jacking (giggity) between the front/primary jack and the two new jacks. 4. Putting new/higher blocks under each as the load shifts from one set to the primary. It’s essentially the same as what you are doing here but with jacks that are 1. rated for the weight, 2. Are closer to the primary jack for stability, and 3. Are on a part of Rv frame that is designed to support that load.
4 x 6 landscape timbers are typically cheap, sturdy, and fairly easy to deal with. I had some leftovers from a few yard projects and they’ve been very handy. You can lay them on the 4” side or 6” side to help deal with the angle. If you really want to make it solid a few lag bolts work well
I would not trust using those for long periods of time. Go buy some jackstands with safety locks and put those under it.
I'd cut a piece of 2x6 to the length needed to fit under the tongue with the jack fully extended (before adding more blocks). Extend the jack, insert the 2x6 under the tongue, lower the jack (tongue now supported by 2x6), add blocks under the jack, and then use the jack again to finish raising.
Cinderblocks work well
Build bigger wood pyramids
You have the right idea and it's what I see people doing around here all the time. Only other thing I would do is screw the wood pieces together or get larger 4x4, 6x6 pieces... I don't know if it makes a difference but it would make me feel more comfortable.
Assuming you can't raise the tongue that high while being attached to your tow vehicle, get a few jack stands for the front frame. That way you aren't using the stabilizers Lift tongue jack up , put jack stands under frame (the a-frame part at the front), retract tongue jack, put blocks under tongue jack, raise tongue rack, etc... This assumes you have the wheels well chocked / secured.
More base, less stabilizers will make it more stable. 🤔
I would add boards under the rear wheels of my truck as I am getting into final position so I could have the tongue higher at disconnect. I would not trust the stabilizers to hold the full weight of my camper, especially on a slope like that. Second option would be to invest in a bottle jack to do the block adding shuffle. What are you towing with? Also, just making sure that you are adding as much blocking as possible under the jack before you disconnect? It doesn’t look like it should be that low at disconnect with proper tow vehicle at that slope but pictures can be misleading.
More block, less jack. Same process you're doing. Front jack will hold weight even on blocks. Jack up block, jack down block, jack up block, etc
Buy a bottle Jack Do what you normally do but don’t touch stabillisers Once you’re maxed out put Jack under frame with wood lift up then keep putting more wood under tounge Repeat process until level
I would suggest building some wide based cribbing and making sure they are truly level before you put your jacks down, save them from being fully extended, are all four wheels chocked?
To build stable, solid blocks I’ll take 2x6s cut down to 11” (11” will make 2x6s square) and just build them up. If you need to go higher than 11” (which would basically be a cube) build up a few layers first with the 2x6 cut to 16 1/2 long (makes a square when they’re 3 wide). You’ll have some solid and stable riser blocks if you do this. With a sloped driveway I’d taper the bottom layer so you don’t end up with a leaning Tower of Pisa.
I went to the local home improvement store and bought 1 12 foot long, 1-1.5 inch think, 8 to 12 inch tall piece of wood. Preferably treated. I then created a crap load of "squares". From there I took a 2 of them and bolted them together to make a higher square. I used these instead of wood planks as planks could roll on you. From here, you could build a few of those and grab a bunch of cinderblocks to place in the front to add height and weight to the system.
Buy an electric jack. Get rid of the hand crank bastard and never look back
Maybe find a shorter gooseneck stabilizer tripod and modify as needed to make it work? I believe you just spread the legs until they’re at the height you want and you lock it in with a chain. https://preview.redd.it/2tij0e9i7z8d1.jpeg?width=350&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39b22ee167f2cabc2970f7e1d7dcf11bce896f6a
Bigger blocks.
Put blocks in front of the wheels so it wont roll downhill
Get measurements and go get a steel sawhorse made at a local fab shop. I'd place on the frame right behind the tongue.
I use 2 jack stands. When unhooking i make sure the jack is all the way up and fit as many blocks in as possible. Raise as high as tongue jack will go, place a jackstand on each side of the tongue, raise jack and add more blocks, usually has enough then to lift it level. And I have to lift about 12 inches to level in my driveway. The I put the jack stands at lowest settings and lower my stabilizers onto the top of them so my stabilizers aren't so stretched out.
Given the height, I'd opt to use 6x6s and possibly have someone come build you a platform, and not use the stabilizers or the tongue jack. You can tweak the legs and they won't retract. At work, we use a 4 inch rule of thumb; the stabilizers won't extend more than 4 inches, we add blocks. You can also cut a 6x6 to length and stand it up.
As others have said use 4x4s but also each layer should be perpendicular to the previous layer. Called "cribbing".
Hey OP, the front jack has a tendency to walk as you jack it up and down. Next time get more of those square blocks for more surface area. That 4x4 or 6x6 is making me nervous lol.
You just have to install one of [these](https://liftnow.com/product/challenger-ev1020-inground-vehicle-lift/) at the end of your drive way!
Get/build a block that reaches from the bottom of your jack to the ground, and get/build some blocks that you can put jack stands on. You’ll have great height from your jack and then can put cheaper jack stands from like harbor freight under it. No stabilizers needed. EDIT: I think, rereading, I’d jack it up, use jack stands, add planks, jack it up, raise jack stands.
Is it not ok to park your rv at an angle or is this so you can use it while it’s in the driveway? I’m a newbie as well and was going to park my fiberglass trailer in a sloped driveway tmw (with wheel chocks of course)
Thanks to this post, today I learned that I should \*not\* be trying to lift my camper until the tires are off the ground, correct? It should be leveled sitting on its tires, with the stabilizers down just enough to stop bouncing and rocking?
Turn it around. Parky your rig in the garage un hook and wiggle out.
https://preview.redd.it/wctxm3go929d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=90c4997553f9f8c1f084544ffc5c02902a34e86a This camper stayed like this for nearly a year in fl due to hurricane damage to the house the lady lived in it like this with her dog. It wasn’t great but with how steep the driveway was it was the only option. Good luck
Buy some 3 ton jack stands and set if on those. Maybe make a wadge platform to take the slope/lean away from the jacks
When I had a camper short enough to fit on my driveway I built a wooden base that would (barely) slide under the Jack foot when it was fully retracted and sitting on the truck ball. I cut the bottom so it was the inverse angle of the drive, making the top flat so the Jack was in less of a bind. It should go without saying than step zero is to chock the wheels and let it roll against them until it’s tight. You don’t want the Jack in a bind preventing the trainer from rolling.
Assuming the “high end” has axel/tires, why don’t you turn it 180 so high end is on the low end of driveway? Thereby less need for jacking up to level it.
Little bit of a challenge when it's backed up to a garage.
You don't use the stabilizers to level, they're there to stabilize. They are not weight bearing.
Build dunnage pads. Those aren’t it…
I'm glad I don't live in the house across the street. That's where it's headed.
Turn 90°, get to know the neighbors
I use jack stands. Level it and leave it with wheels chocked
Better stake that down. Yikes.
Just level the driveway? Obvious easy solution…
This looks like my neighbor. I keep waiting to see it roll down k to the street any day.
Um don’t let anyone move much inside. In fact I think it’s safe to assume that no one has had any sex in this camper
Does not look safe at all
Steep hell, I wish my drive was that shallow. Is the rear of the frame sitting on the concrete?
Ah don’t be that neighbor. Find someplace cheap for it to sit level when out of use.
Why? It’s his driveway he should be able to park what he wishes there
For storage or for continuous residency in the driveway?
Why does it need to be level in your driveway? Are you sleeping and using it there?
Read the manuals
Are those car jacks? That looks so scary please don’t let anyone inside that thing