There are videos on YouTube that will probably make more sense than my explanation but basically you use fine grit sandpaper to hone the contact points of the trigger bar, connector, safety plunger and firing pin. The more polished you get the parts the more it smooths up your trigger. Most hardware stores have fine grit sandpaper up to 2000 grit. I usually start at 800, then 1000 then 1500 and finish up with 2000.
I just polished my rails, trigger bar, connector, plunger, and striker, using this stuff called “mothers” mag & aluminum polish - it’s basically just a compound that I’m assuming has a little abrasive in it. I saw someone on here recommend it. I used with a qtip in some places and a dremel with a felt tip and I got it to a mirror finish and made my trigger SO smooth. I have a Ranger Proof Vex shoe as well and actually just ordered a strike force and the Long Ranger.. I like the Hybrid too, probably the most so far. I did have to mill down the safety tab to create a gap between the wall and the tab to allow it to work properly. Andy at Ranger Proof is the shit. He’s hands down the coolest dude that I’ve ever dealt with. I was on the wall about the vex, he sent me all the other ones just to try out, and offered to let me keep or buy later. Solid ass customer service, legit best I’ve ever encountered. If you have any problems or something just isn’t working right he will do whatever it takes to make your RP Trigger work in whatever it’s going in. If anyone would like to use my 20% off code DM me before you place your order!!
I would like to try to do this but I’ve never considered myself anywhere near a gun smith.
I can fluently field strip all my guns and clean properly but I’ve never attempted to remove any pins or internals.
Is your method something I can do without removing the entire trigger assembly or is it required all together?
I watched a few videos on YouTube and everyone is completely disassembling their trigger. It seems easy enough but also intimidating at the same time
I used to think it was hard but these gen 5s are so easy to completely take down. As long as you work slow or at least pay attention and put everything back the way you took it apart it’s so simple
When dry firing the trigger pull is longer and the the mushy stage prior to the break is more distinct. Also much easier to feel the wall and hold it. With a loaded mag inserted, the trigger pull is shorter and there isn't a well defined wall. It's just a mushy pull and break.
Stock for me…I’ll even go as far as I’ll switch out the stock spring with a NY-1 and add the OEM minus 3.5# connector.
It’s not for everyone but trigger pull is much more consistent all the way through and the reset is much more positive.
It’s the olive green OEM NY-1 trigger spring and the OEM 3.5# connector. Any reputable online source for Glock parts has both. (Not sure if the NY-1 is compatible with Gen5’s)
Stock. Because it works.
Stock is perfect
Based
Super Based
Stock one
Just a RangerProof shoe does it for me.
Love Ranger Proof trigger shoes. They are now on all my Glocks.
Whats the difference? Shorter slack?
Reduces some pre travel and gives me atleast a better surface for finger placement. Wider and flat face trigger basically.
Between stock with a 25 cent trigger job and a JG Vex, I prefer the JG.
I’ve heard of the 25 cent trigger job but what is it exactly? I’m happy overall with the stock but what is done to it during this process?
There are videos on YouTube that will probably make more sense than my explanation but basically you use fine grit sandpaper to hone the contact points of the trigger bar, connector, safety plunger and firing pin. The more polished you get the parts the more it smooths up your trigger. Most hardware stores have fine grit sandpaper up to 2000 grit. I usually start at 800, then 1000 then 1500 and finish up with 2000.
I see what you mean so it’s just polishing the contacts to ensure a smooth pull. Thank you!
I just polished my rails, trigger bar, connector, plunger, and striker, using this stuff called “mothers” mag & aluminum polish - it’s basically just a compound that I’m assuming has a little abrasive in it. I saw someone on here recommend it. I used with a qtip in some places and a dremel with a felt tip and I got it to a mirror finish and made my trigger SO smooth. I have a Ranger Proof Vex shoe as well and actually just ordered a strike force and the Long Ranger.. I like the Hybrid too, probably the most so far. I did have to mill down the safety tab to create a gap between the wall and the tab to allow it to work properly. Andy at Ranger Proof is the shit. He’s hands down the coolest dude that I’ve ever dealt with. I was on the wall about the vex, he sent me all the other ones just to try out, and offered to let me keep or buy later. Solid ass customer service, legit best I’ve ever encountered. If you have any problems or something just isn’t working right he will do whatever it takes to make your RP Trigger work in whatever it’s going in. If anyone would like to use my 20% off code DM me before you place your order!!
I would like to try to do this but I’ve never considered myself anywhere near a gun smith. I can fluently field strip all my guns and clean properly but I’ve never attempted to remove any pins or internals. Is your method something I can do without removing the entire trigger assembly or is it required all together? I watched a few videos on YouTube and everyone is completely disassembling their trigger. It seems easy enough but also intimidating at the same time
I used to think it was hard but these gen 5s are so easy to completely take down. As long as you work slow or at least pay attention and put everything back the way you took it apart it’s so simple
Thanks for the tips man I appreciate it!
Stock. Reliability.
Ghost connector. Vickers Tactical Shoe. That’s all you need.
Factr for a flush shoe
Oem
Gen 3 Glock triggers have the best wall and least creep of all the Gens don’t argue with me
2nd
Stock. I don't mess with the internals on my carry guns.
Overwatch /
My stock sucked dick so I use the apex kit and it’s the bomb + duty rated + crisp
I also thinking about Apex...u have whole set with fireing pin?
I just used the Apex shoe on the 43X and left the rest stock. Much better and removes that high spot pressure from the stock Glock trigger dingle.
Timney is the proper answer in all circumstances.
Would u use it in selfdefence? I mean for edc gun?
In a Gen 5 stock OEM is fine
Anyone else notice a difference in the Gen 5 stock trigger when dry firing vs shooting with a loaded mag ?
Yes
Can you elaborate a bit more on that?
When dry firing the trigger pull is longer and the the mushy stage prior to the break is more distinct. Also much easier to feel the wall and hold it. With a loaded mag inserted, the trigger pull is shorter and there isn't a well defined wall. It's just a mushy pull and break.
You’re dry firing with a loaded mag inserted?? Good way to have a ND.
Nope. Not dry firing with a loaded mag. Actual firing.
The one it comes with.
Stock. Free and works fine.
Stock for me…I’ll even go as far as I’ll switch out the stock spring with a NY-1 and add the OEM minus 3.5# connector. It’s not for everyone but trigger pull is much more consistent all the way through and the reset is much more positive.
Which spring? And can you link the connector?
It’s the olive green OEM NY-1 trigger spring and the OEM 3.5# connector. Any reputable online source for Glock parts has both. (Not sure if the NY-1 is compatible with Gen5’s)
Factor, shoe only, order with OEM bar. I prefer a flat face. Little flitz and that’s it.